WO2009103601A1 - Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers - Google Patents

Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2009103601A1
WO2009103601A1 PCT/EP2009/051024 EP2009051024W WO2009103601A1 WO 2009103601 A1 WO2009103601 A1 WO 2009103601A1 EP 2009051024 W EP2009051024 W EP 2009051024W WO 2009103601 A1 WO2009103601 A1 WO 2009103601A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
product according
weight
ammonium salt
skin
cationic copolymer
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2009/051024
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Jack Polonka
John Brian Bartolone
Original Assignee
Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Unilever Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Hindustan Unilever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Priority to EP09712531A priority Critical patent/EP2242541B1/en
Priority to KR1020107018323A priority patent/KR101530741B1/en
Priority to MX2010009098A priority patent/MX2010009098A/en
Priority to CN200980105502.8A priority patent/CN101945687B/en
Priority to ES09712531T priority patent/ES2401943T3/en
Priority to CA2715057A priority patent/CA2715057C/en
Priority to AU2009216882A priority patent/AU2009216882B2/en
Priority to JP2010547132A priority patent/JP5481393B2/en
Publication of WO2009103601A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009103601A1/en
Priority to ZA2010/05428A priority patent/ZA201005428B/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin

Definitions

  • the invention concerns a product for imparting glow and/or a sunless tan to skin.
  • the product includes besides a skin tanning agent also a colour enhancement agent for reducing the time to full maturation and deeper colour intensity.
  • UV radiation from the sun is considered to be a leading factor in causing skin cancer. Even if not lethal, ultraviolet radiation has been acknowledged as accelerating aging and wrinkling processes on the skin.
  • compositions that can be used to brown human skin without the necessity of exposing the skin to natural, or artificial, sunlight.
  • Such compositions contain, as their active agent, one or more of the available self tanning agents, including dihydroxyacetone ("DHA,” 1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone).
  • DHA currently the most widely used of the self tanning agents, is believed to exert its effect through interactions between its hydroxyl groups and the amino groups of amino acids and peptides naturally occurring in the hydrolipid pellicle and first layers of the stratum corneum of the skin.
  • Such Maillard reactions are believed (see, e.g., Bobin et al., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 35: 255 (1984)) to lead to formation of brown pigments in the skin, thereby giving it an appearance similar to that of a naturally obtained tan.
  • the present invention is directed to a product which imparts a more intense (darker) colour not achievable with traditional sunless tanning agents.
  • a cosmetic product for imparting a glow or sunless tan to skin which includes:
  • a tanning agent which is reactive with skin to produce a tan colour
  • a colour enhancing agent which is a crosslinked cationic copolymer having monomer units of methacryloylethyl tri(C r C 3 alkyl) ammonium salt or acryloylethyl tri(CrC 3 alkyl) ammonium salt
  • a cosmetically acceptable carrier
  • crosslinked cationic copolymers partially formed from monomer units of methacryloylethyl or acryloylethyl tri(C r C 3 alkyl) ammonium salts are effective colour enhancing agents in imparting glow (radiance) and/or sunless tan to skin.
  • the combination of a tanning agent and the cationic copolymer deliver a more intense colour to the treated area of skin. Further, substantivity is enhanced. There is resistance to the tanning agent being washed-off or sweated off. Physically it is also more difficult to rub-off the compositions onto clothing.
  • Tanning agents of the present invention are materials which when applied to human skin will react with amino acids of the skin so as to form pigmented species (i.e. a tan). These reactions give skin a brown appearance similar to a colour obtained by exposure to sunlight.
  • These materials may be alpha-hydroxyaldehydes and ketones, glyceraldehyde, troxerutin and related alcohol aldehydes, various indoles, imidazoles and derivatives thereof.
  • Illustrative but not limiting are dihydroxyacetone, melanin, mahakanni (eclipta alba), methyl glyoxal, erythrulose, alloxan, 2,3-dihydroxysuccindialdehyde and mixtures thereof. More preferred is dihydroxyacetone.
  • Amounts of the tanning agent may range from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.8 to 5%, and optimally from 1 to 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Formulations intended for imparting glow utilize tanning agent at lower levels such as from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of the composition. Sunless tanning to a relatively dark shade ordinarily requires the tanning agent to be at the higher levels from 3 to 20% by weight of the composition.
  • Cationic copolymers of the present invention incorporate as one of the repeating units a methacryloylethyl tri(C r C 3 alkyl) ammonium salt or an acryloylethyl ⁇ i(C 1 -C 3 alkyl) ammonium salt.
  • salt for this monomer unit may be but is not limited to chloride, bromide, sulfate, sulphonate, methosulfate, nitrate, tosylate, phosphate and phosphonate.
  • copolymer means at least two different monomer repeating units, preferably three or more different monomer repeating units. Monomer units that crosslink are particularly useful.
  • Monomers forming the copolymer with the methacryloylethyl ⁇ i(C 1 -C 3 alkyl) ammonium salt or acryloylethyl tri(CrC 3 alkyl) ammonium salt monomer units include: styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide, tris(hydroxymethyl)-acrylamidomethane and mixtures thereof.
  • the term "acid” appears the term means not only the free acid but also C 1 -C 30 alkyl esters, anhydrides and salts thereof. Preferably but not exclusively the salts thereof may - A -
  • ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts are ammonium and alkanolammonium salts of acid monomers.
  • cationic copolymer is acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)- acrylamidomethane copolymer.
  • Commercial availability is under the trademark 7688 MP available from Seppic Inc.
  • Number average molecular weight of the copolymers according to the invention may range from 1,000 to 3,000,000, preferably from 3,000 to 100,000, optimally from 10,000 to 80,000.
  • Amounts of the copolymer may range from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 7%, and optimally from 1 .5 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • Additional enhancement of tanning effect and elimination of streaking can be achieved by utilization of a monomeric quaternary ammonium salt.
  • Particularly useful are C 12 -C 22 fatty alkyl substituted ammonium salts. These may be mono- fatty alkyl or di- fatty alkyl substituted ammonium compounds. Amounts may range from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 3%, and optimally from 0.15 to 1% by weight of the cosmetic compositions.
  • An illustrative material is distearyl dimethyl ammonium salts, and in particular distearyl dimonium chloride sold under the trademark Varisoft TA-100.
  • compositions of this invention will also include a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Amounts of the carrier may range from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 70 to 95%, optimally from 80 to 90% by weight of the composition.
  • the carrier may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion.
  • the compositions are aqueous, especially water and oil emulsions of the W/O or CVW or triplex W/O/W variety.
  • Water when present may be in amounts ranging from 5 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally from 35 to 60% by weight of the composition.
  • Emollient materials may serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils, natural or synthetic esters and hydrocarbons. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 95%, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight of the composition.
  • Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety.
  • volatile refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature.
  • Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms.
  • Non-volatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers.
  • the essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from 5 x 10 ⁇ 6 to 0.1 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • the preferred nonvolatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from 1 x 10 ⁇ 5 to 4 x 10 ⁇ 4 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • Non-volatile silicones are emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. Representative of this category is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer available as Dow Corning 9040, General Electric SFE 839, and Shin-Etsu KSG- 18. Silicone waxes such as Silwax WS-L (dimethicone copolyol laurate) may also be useful.
  • ester emollients are: a) Alkyl esters of saturated fatty acids having 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include behenyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, isopropyl myristate and octyl stearate. b) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated saturated fatty alcohols. c) Polyhydric alcohol esters.
  • Ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di- fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.
  • Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and neopentyl glycol esters of C 1 -C 30 alcohols.
  • Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax.
  • Sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate.
  • Natural ester emollients principally are based upon mono-, di- and tri- glycerides.
  • Representative glycerides include sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, borage seed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof.
  • Animal derived emollients are represented by lanolin oil and lanolin derivatives. Amounts of the natural esters may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the compositions.
  • Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include petrolatum, mineral oil, C 11 -C 13 isoparaffins, polybutenes, and especially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101A from Presperse Inc.
  • Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers.
  • Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic and behenic acids.
  • Fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms are another useful category of cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Illustrative of this category are stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
  • Thickeners can be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention.
  • Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982®), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382®), polyacrylamides (e.g. Sepigel 305®), acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid/salt polymers and copolymers (e.g. Aristoflex H MB® and AVC®), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums.
  • crosslinked acrylates e.g. Carbopol 982®
  • hydrophobically-modified acrylates e.g. Carbopol 1382®
  • polyacrylamides e.g. Sepigel 305®
  • acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid/salt polymers and copolymers e.g. Aristoflex H MB® and AVC®
  • cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methocellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose.
  • Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums.
  • Inorganics may also be utilized as thickeners, particularly clays such as bentonites and hectorites, fumed silicas, calcium carbonate and silicates such as magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum®). Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 10%, usually from 0.001 to 1%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Humectants may be employed in the present invention. These are generally polyhydric alcohol-type materials. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of adjunct humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may be in any form. These forms may include lotions, creams, roll-on formulations, sticks, mousses, aerosol and non-aerosol sprays and fabric (e.g. nonwoven textile)-applied formulations. Particularly useful are nonwoven cloths of polypropylene or cotton/polyester impregnated with dihydroxyacetone and a cationic copolymer of the present invention.
  • Surfactants may also be present in compositions of the present invention. Total concentration of the surfactant when present may range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, optimally from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives.
  • nonionic surfactants are those with a C 10 -C 2O fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C 2 -C 10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C 8 -C 20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof.
  • Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) and trialkylamine oxides are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosucci nates, C 8 -C 2O acyl isethionates, C 8 -C 20 alkyl ether phosphates, C 8 -C 20 sarcosinates, C 8 -C 20 acyl lactylates, sulfoacetates and combinations thereof.
  • Useful amphoteric surfactants include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C 12 -C 20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate.
  • porous is meant an open or closed cell structure.
  • the particles are not hollow beads.
  • Average particle size may range from 0.1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, more preferably greater than 5 and especially from 5 to 15, optimally from 6 to 10 ⁇ m.
  • Organic polymers or copolymers are the preferred materials and can be formed from monomers including the acid, salt or ester forms of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, methylacrylate, ethylacrylate, ethylene, propylene, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, maleic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone, styrene, butadiene and mixtures thereof.
  • the polymers are especially useful in cross-linked form.
  • Cells of the porous articles may be filled by a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon.
  • Oil Absorbance is a measure of porosity and in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from 90 to 500, preferably from 100 to 200, optimally from 120 to 180 ml/100 grams. Density of the particles in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from 0.08 to 0.55, preferably from 0.15 to 0.48 g/cm 3
  • Illustrative porous polymers include polymethylmethacrylate and cross-linked polystyrene. Most preferred is polymethyl methacrylate available as Ganzpearl® GMP 820 available from Presperse, Inc., Piscataway, New Jersey, known also by its INCI name of Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer.
  • Amounts of the water-insoluble polymeric porous particles may range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, optimally from 0.3 to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the personal care compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.
  • preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, dimethyloldimethylhydantoin, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid salts (EDTA), sodium dehydroacetate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynbutylcarbamate and benzyl alcohol.
  • the preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients.
  • Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of this invention may optionally be included in compositions of this invention.
  • the extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents.
  • Illustrative extracts include those from green tea, chamomile, licorice, aloe vera, grape seed, citrus unshui, willow bark, sage, thyme and rosemary.
  • ком ⁇ онентs including Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3B and Ceramide 6) as well as pseudoceramides may also be useful. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.000001 to 10%, preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight of the composition.
  • Colourants, opacifiers and abrasives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may also contain vitamins.
  • Illustrative water- soluble vitamins are niacinamide, vitamin B 2 , vitamin B 6 , vitamin C and biotin.
  • useful water-insoluble vitamins are vitamin A (retinol), vitamin A palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E acetate and DL-panthenol.
  • Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
  • Desquamation agents are further optional components.
  • Illustrative are the alpha- hydroxycarboxylic acids and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids and salts of these acids.
  • the former are salts of glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid.
  • Salicylic acid is representative of the beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Amounts of these materials when present may range from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the composition.
  • a base formula was utilized and different quaternary ammonium materials were added.
  • the base is outlined in table Il below.
  • Simulgel NS is a Seppic trademark for hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate polymer
  • Simulgel 7688 MP is a Seppic trademark for acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane copolymer.
  • Sample 1 which is a standard control, exhibited considerable loss of the tanning effect at the eight hour mark. There was also streaking of the tan.
  • Sample 2 utilized a monomeric quaternary ammonium compound which is distearyl dimonium chloride. Colour intensity loss (delta E) improved and less streaking was produced than the control.
  • Sample 3 utilizing a crosslinked cationic copolymer per the present invention resulted in a significant enhancement of the tanning effect and no streaking was observed. An even further enhancement was seen in Sample 4.
  • the crosslinked cationic copolymer of the present invention was combined with a monomeric quaternary ammonium compound (distearyl dimonium chloride). Tanning effect retention was increased further and streaking was not observed. Based on these results, it is evident that the crosslinked cationic copolymer of the present invention operates as a colour enhancing agent.
  • Sepigel® 305 is a Seppic trademark for polyacrylamide.
  • Merquat® 5 is a Nalco Corp. trademark for acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate copolymer. Table IV employs Sample 5 (equivalent to Sample 1) as a standard control. This material exhibited considerable loss of the tanning effect at the eight hour mark. There was also streaking of the tan. Sample 7 is a non-cationic polymer based on acrylamide monomer units. The relatively low delta E value indicates considerable loss of tan colouration upon rinse.
  • Sample 8 is a cationic copolymer but differs from that utilized in Sample 3 by not having a crosslinking agent (i.e. tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane).
  • Sample 8 had a delta E of 3.08 which was much better than those of the nonionic polymers/copolymers in formulas represented by Samples 1, 5, 6 and 7.
  • Sample 3 which is a formula according to the present invention utilizing a cationic polymer. Sample 3 imparted to skin a significant enhancement of the tanning effect and no streaking was observed.
  • Table V and Vl record two sets of colour enhancement measurements (delta E), the latter set being performed several months subsequent to the former. In all other respects, the experiments of tables V and Vl were done identically.
  • Simulgel NS is a Seppic trademark for hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate polymer.
  • Simulgel 7688 MP is a Seppic trademark for acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane copolymer.
  • Simulgel NS is a Seppic trademark for hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate polymer.
  • Aristoflex® AVC is a Clariant Corp. trademark for acryloyl dimethyltaurate/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer.
  • Sepigel® 305 is a Seppic trademark for polyacrylamide.
  • Merquat® 5 is a Nalco Corp. trademark for acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate copolymer.
  • Sample 3 represents the present invention. Intensity of colour change reached 9.62 (delta E). Addition of distearyl dimonium chloride (0.2%) to the Simulgel 7688 cationic polymer (1.5%) resulted in a further colouration enhancement to 10.85 (delta E) (see Sample 4).
  • Samples 5 and 6 representing nonionic acrylo type polymers managed only to increase the delta E to values of 1.99 and 2.10, respectively.
  • Merquat® 5 which is a non-crosslinked cationic polyacrylamide and methacryloyl type polymer had an appreciable colour intensity enhancement.
  • Sample 8 exhibited a 5.19 delta E. However, the crosslinked cationic copolymer of Sample 3 exhibited a significantly higher delta E value.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for sunless tanning or imparting glow to skin is herein described. The composition includes from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a tanning agent and from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a crosslinked cationic copolymer having a monomer unit which is a methacryloylethyl or acryloylethyl tri(C1-C3 alkyl)ammonium salt. The crosslinked cationic copolymer is a colour enhancing agent which improves colour intensity and avoids streaking of the developing tan/glow.

Description

GLOW AND SUNLESS TANNING COLOUR ENHANCEMENT BY CATIONIC COPOLYMERS
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The invention concerns a product for imparting glow and/or a sunless tan to skin. The product includes besides a skin tanning agent also a colour enhancement agent for reducing the time to full maturation and deeper colour intensity.
Today there is a great health concern with natural tanning through sunlight. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun is considered to be a leading factor in causing skin cancer. Even if not lethal, ultraviolet radiation has been acknowledged as accelerating aging and wrinkling processes on the skin.
Beyond health concerns, there are obvious practical reasons against natural tanning. Foremost is the reason that in many areas of the globe and during all but summertime, there is insufficient sunlight available to accomplish the task.
While some choose artificial sunlight as an alternative to exposure to natural sunlight, and as a potentially less risky means of obtaining a tan, this option too is not always suitable; hence, other options for skin tanning are desirable. One of these options, to which people are turning in increasing numbers, are the various "sunless tanning compositions" that can be used to brown human skin without the necessity of exposing the skin to natural, or artificial, sunlight. Such compositions contain, as their active agent, one or more of the available self tanning agents, including dihydroxyacetone ("DHA," 1,3-dihydroxy-2-propanone).
DHA, currently the most widely used of the self tanning agents, is believed to exert its effect through interactions between its hydroxyl groups and the amino groups of amino acids and peptides naturally occurring in the hydrolipid pellicle and first layers of the stratum corneum of the skin. Such Maillard reactions are believed (see, e.g., Bobin et al., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 35: 255 (1984)) to lead to formation of brown pigments in the skin, thereby giving it an appearance similar to that of a naturally obtained tan. Although there has been great prog ress in sunless self-tanning as noted above, considerable further progress is needed to increase speed of colouration and achieve a colouration even closer to a natural look. Furthermore, many of the known self-tanning compositions have poor substantivity. Rub-off onto clothing may occur and thereby impart a stain to the textiles. Many of the formulas are subject to wash-off and sweat-off after their application. There is a need to improve substantivity on the skin. Streaking is also a problem faced by the art. By the term "streaking" is meant non-even deposition on the skin; the colouration tends to migrate along an outer perimeter as a result of the formula being rubbed around upon the skin.
New approaches are required to address one or more of the problems with self-tanning compositions. Thus, the present invention is directed to a product which imparts a more intense (darker) colour not achievable with traditional sunless tanning agents.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A cosmetic product for imparting a glow or sunless tan to skin is provided which includes:
(i) from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a tanning agent which is reactive with skin to produce a tan colour; (ii) from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a colour enhancing agent which is a crosslinked cationic copolymer having monomer units of methacryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salt or acryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salt; and (iii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Now it has been found that crosslinked cationic copolymers partially formed from monomer units of methacryloylethyl or acryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salts are effective colour enhancing agents in imparting glow (radiance) and/or sunless tan to skin. The combination of a tanning agent and the cationic copolymer deliver a more intense colour to the treated area of skin. Further, substantivity is enhanced. There is resistance to the tanning agent being washed-off or sweated off. Physically it is also more difficult to rub-off the compositions onto clothing. Tanning agents of the present invention are materials which when applied to human skin will react with amino acids of the skin so as to form pigmented species (i.e. a tan). These reactions give skin a brown appearance similar to a colour obtained by exposure to sunlight. These materials may be alpha-hydroxyaldehydes and ketones, glyceraldehyde, troxerutin and related alcohol aldehydes, various indoles, imidazoles and derivatives thereof. Illustrative but not limiting are dihydroxyacetone, melanin, mahakanni (eclipta alba), methyl glyoxal, erythrulose, alloxan, 2,3-dihydroxysuccindialdehyde and mixtures thereof. More preferred is dihydroxyacetone.
Amounts of the tanning agent may range from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 0.8 to 5%, and optimally from 1 to 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
Formulations intended for imparting glow (synonymous with radiance), utilize tanning agent at lower levels such as from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of the composition. Sunless tanning to a relatively dark shade ordinarily requires the tanning agent to be at the higher levels from 3 to 20% by weight of the composition.
Cationic copolymers of the present invention incorporate as one of the repeating units a methacryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salt or an acryloylethyl ^i(C1-C3 alkyl) ammonium salt. The term "salt" for this monomer unit may be but is not limited to chloride, bromide, sulfate, sulphonate, methosulfate, nitrate, tosylate, phosphate and phosphonate. The term "copolymer" means at least two different monomer repeating units, preferably three or more different monomer repeating units. Monomer units that crosslink are particularly useful.
Monomers forming the copolymer with the methacryloylethyl ^i(C1-C3 alkyl) ammonium salt or acryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salt monomer units include: styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide, tris(hydroxymethyl)-acrylamidomethane and mixtures thereof. Where the term "acid" appears, the term means not only the free acid but also C1-C30 alkyl esters, anhydrides and salts thereof. Preferably but not exclusively the salts thereof may - A -
be ammonium, alkanolammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts. Most preferred are the ammonium and alkanolammonium salts of acid monomers.
Most preferred for purposes of this invention as the cationic copolymer is acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)- acrylamidomethane copolymer. Commercial availability is under the trademark 7688 MP available from Seppic Inc.
Number average molecular weight of the copolymers according to the invention may range from 1,000 to 3,000,000, preferably from 3,000 to 100,000, optimally from 10,000 to 80,000.
Amounts of the copolymer may range from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, more preferably from 1 to 7%, and optimally from 1 .5 to 5% by weight of the composition.
Additional enhancement of tanning effect and elimination of streaking can be achieved by utilization of a monomeric quaternary ammonium salt. Particularly useful are C12-C22 fatty alkyl substituted ammonium salts. These may be mono- fatty alkyl or di- fatty alkyl substituted ammonium compounds. Amounts may range from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.05 to 3%, and optimally from 0.15 to 1% by weight of the cosmetic compositions. An illustrative material is distearyl dimethyl ammonium salts, and in particular distearyl dimonium chloride sold under the trademark Varisoft TA-100.
Compositions of this invention will also include a cosmetically acceptable carrier. Amounts of the carrier may range from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 70 to 95%, optimally from 80 to 90% by weight of the composition. Among the useful carriers are water, emollients, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, thickeners and combinations thereof. The carrier may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably the compositions are aqueous, especially water and oil emulsions of the W/O or CVW or triplex W/O/W variety. Water when present may be in amounts ranging from 5 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally from 35 to 60% by weight of the composition. Emollient materials may serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils, natural or synthetic esters and hydrocarbons. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 95%, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight of the composition.
Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms.
Non-volatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from 5 x 10~6 to 0.1 m2/s at 25°C. Among the preferred nonvolatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from 1 x 10~5 to 4 x 10~4 m2/s at 25°C.
Another class of non-volatile silicones are emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. Representative of this category is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer available as Dow Corning 9040, General Electric SFE 839, and Shin-Etsu KSG- 18. Silicone waxes such as Silwax WS-L (dimethicone copolyol laurate) may also be useful.
Among the ester emollients are: a) Alkyl esters of saturated fatty acids having 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include behenyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, isopropyl myristate and octyl stearate. b) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated saturated fatty alcohols. c) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di- fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters. Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and neopentyl glycol esters of C1-C30 alcohols. d) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax. e) Sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate.
Natural ester emollients principally are based upon mono-, di- and tri- glycerides. Representative glycerides include sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, borage seed oil, primrose oil, castor and hydrogenated castor oils, rice bran oil, soybean oil, olive oil, safflower oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and combinations thereof. Animal derived emollients are represented by lanolin oil and lanolin derivatives. Amounts of the natural esters may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the compositions.
Hydrocarbons which are suitable cosmetically acceptable carriers include petrolatum, mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polybutenes, and especially isohexadecane, available commercially as Permethyl 101A from Presperse Inc.
Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be suitable as cosmetically acceptable carriers. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, hydroxystearic and behenic acids.
Fatty alcohols having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms are another useful category of cosmetically acceptable carrier. Illustrative of this category are stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
Thickeners can be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982®), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382®), polyacrylamides (e.g. Sepigel 305®), acryloylmethylpropane sulfonic acid/salt polymers and copolymers (e.g. Aristoflex H MB® and AVC®), cellulosic derivatives and natural gums. Among useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methocellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums. Inorganics may also be utilized as thickeners, particularly clays such as bentonites and hectorites, fumed silicas, calcium carbonate and silicates such as magnesium aluminum silicate (Veegum®). Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 10%, usually from 0.001 to 1%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Humectants may be employed in the present invention. These are generally polyhydric alcohol-type materials. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of adjunct humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.
Compositions of the present invention may be in any form. These forms may include lotions, creams, roll-on formulations, sticks, mousses, aerosol and non-aerosol sprays and fabric (e.g. nonwoven textile)-applied formulations. Particularly useful are nonwoven cloths of polypropylene or cotton/polyester impregnated with dihydroxyacetone and a cationic copolymer of the present invention.
Surfactants may also be present in compositions of the present invention. Total concentration of the surfactant when present may range from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, optimally from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the composition. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a C10-C2O fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C2-C10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- C8-C20 fatty acids; and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) and trialkylamine oxides are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfates and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosucci nates, C8-C2O acyl isethionates, C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates, C8-C20 sarcosinates, C8-C20 acyl lactylates, sulfoacetates and combinations thereof.
Useful amphoteric surfactants include cocoamidopropyl betaine, C12-C20 trialkyl betaines, sodium lauroamphoacetate, and sodium laurodiamphoacetate.
Advantageously present may also be water-insoluble organic material in the form of polymeric porous spherical particles. By the term "porous" is meant an open or closed cell structure. Preferably the particles are not hollow beads. Average particle size may range from 0.1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, more preferably greater than 5 and especially from 5 to 15, optimally from 6 to 10 μm. Organic polymers or copolymers are the preferred materials and can be formed from monomers including the acid, salt or ester forms of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, methylacrylate, ethylacrylate, ethylene, propylene, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, maleic acid, vinyl pyrrolidone, styrene, butadiene and mixtures thereof. The polymers are especially useful in cross-linked form. Cells of the porous articles may be filled by a gas which can be air, nitrogen or a hydrocarbon. Oil Absorbance (castor oil) is a measure of porosity and in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from 90 to 500, preferably from 100 to 200, optimally from 120 to 180 ml/100 grams. Density of the particles in the preferred but not limiting embodiment may range from 0.08 to 0.55, preferably from 0.15 to 0.48 g/cm3
Illustrative porous polymers include polymethylmethacrylate and cross-linked polystyrene. Most preferred is polymethyl methacrylate available as Ganzpearl® GMP 820 available from Presperse, Inc., Piscataway, New Jersey, known also by its INCI name of Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer.
Amounts of the water-insoluble polymeric porous particles may range from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, optimally from 0.3 to 2% by weight of the composition. Preservatives can desirably be incorporated into the personal care compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Particularly preferred preservatives are phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, dimethyloldimethylhydantoin, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid salts (EDTA), sodium dehydroacetate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynbutylcarbamate and benzyl alcohol. The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight of the composition.
A variety of herbal extracts may optionally be included in compositions of this invention. The extracts may either be water soluble or water-insoluble carried in a solvent which respectively is hydrophilic or hydrophobic. Water and ethanol are the preferred extract solvents. Illustrative extracts include those from green tea, chamomile, licorice, aloe vera, grape seed, citrus unshui, willow bark, sage, thyme and rosemary.
Also included may be such materials as lipoic acid, retinoxytrimethylsilane (available from Clariant Corp. under the Silcare 1M-75 trademark), dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and combinations thereof. Ceramides (including Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 3B and Ceramide 6) as well as pseudoceramides may also be useful. Amounts of these materials may range from 0.000001 to 10%, preferably from 0.0001 to 1% by weight of the composition.
Colourants, opacifiers and abrasives may also be included in compositions of the present invention. Each of these substances may range from 0.05 to 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight of the composition.
Still other suitable actives for skin compositions and use in the present invention include creatine, resveratrol, hyaluronic acid (particularly those of molecular weight of around 800), and combinations thereof. Amounts may range from 0.000001 to 5%, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight of the composition. Compositions of the present invention may also contain vitamins. Illustrative water- soluble vitamins are niacinamide, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin C and biotin. Among the useful water-insoluble vitamins are vitamin A (retinol), vitamin A palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E acetate and DL-panthenol. Total amount of vitamins when present in compositions according to the present invention may range from 0.001 to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 1%, optimally from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight of the composition.
Desquamation agents are further optional components. Illustrative are the alpha- hydroxycarboxylic acids and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids and salts of these acids. Among the former are salts of glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid. Salicylic acid is representative of the beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids. Amounts of these materials when present may range from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the composition.
Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material ought to be understood as modified by the word "about".
The term "comprising" is meant not to be limiting to any subsequently stated elements but rather to encompass non-specified elements of major or minor functional importance. In other words the listed steps, elements or options need not be exhaustive. Whenever the words "including" or "having" are used, these terms are meant to be equivalent to "comprising" as defined above.
All documents referred to herein, including all patents, patent applications, and printed publications, are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety in this disclosure.
The following examples will more fully illustrate the embodiments of this invention. All parts, percentages and proportions referred to herein and in the appended claims are by weight unless otherwise illustrated. EXAMPLE 1-8
A series of typical body lotions according to the present invention are outlined in table I below.
TABLE I
Figure imgf000012_0001
EXAMPLE 9
A set of experiments are here reported comparing the cationic copolymer of the present invention with related quaternary ammonium materials.
A base formula was utilized and different quaternary ammonium materials were added. The base is outlined in table Il below.
TABLE Il Base Formula
Figure imgf000012_0002
Figure imgf000013_0001
Four samples were prepared with different quaternary ammonium or control polymers in the base formula. Each of the samples was applied onto a forearm area of a subject at 20 mg/cm2 dosage. The sample was allowed to dry on the skin for 3 minutes. Thereafter, the skin was rinsed under running water for 2 minutes.
Prior to treatment and eight hours subsequent thereto, the area of treatment was observed for colouration. Measurements were taken with a H unter Lab Spectra Colorimeter, with values reported for L, a* and b*. Results are detailed in table III.
TABLE
Figure imgf000013_0002
(i) Simulgel NS is a Seppic trademark for hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate polymer, (ii) Simulgel 7688 MP is a Seppic trademark for acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane copolymer. Sample 1, which is a standard control, exhibited considerable loss of the tanning effect at the eight hour mark. There was also streaking of the tan. Sample 2 utilized a monomeric quaternary ammonium compound which is distearyl dimonium chloride. Colour intensity loss (delta E) improved and less streaking was produced than the control. Sample 3 utilizing a crosslinked cationic copolymer per the present invention resulted in a significant enhancement of the tanning effect and no streaking was observed. An even further enhancement was seen in Sample 4. In this experiment the crosslinked cationic copolymer of the present invention was combined with a monomeric quaternary ammonium compound (distearyl dimonium chloride). Tanning effect retention was increased further and streaking was not observed. Based on these results, it is evident that the crosslinked cationic copolymer of the present invention operates as a colour enhancing agent.
Further experiments were conducted to evaluate effects of different cationic polymers. These experiments were done several months subsequent to those under table III and, therefore, exhibited slightly different initial skin values. In all other respects, the experiments were done in accordance with those for which the table III results were obtained.
TABLE IV
Figure imgf000014_0001
(i) S i m u l g e l N S i s a Se p p i c tra d e m a r k fo r hyd roxyet hyl a cryl ate/sod i u m acrylodimethyltaurate polymer, (ii) Aristoflex® AVC is a Clariant Corp. trademark for acryloyl dimethyltaurate/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer.
(iii) Sepigel® 305 is a Seppic trademark for polyacrylamide. (iv) Merquat® 5 is a Nalco Corp. trademark for acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate copolymer. Table IV employs Sample 5 (equivalent to Sample 1) as a standard control. This material exhibited considerable loss of the tanning effect at the eight hour mark. There was also streaking of the tan. Sample 7 is a non-cationic polymer based on acrylamide monomer units. The relatively low delta E value indicates considerable loss of tan colouration upon rinse. Sample 8 is a cationic copolymer but differs from that utilized in Sample 3 by not having a crosslinking agent (i.e. tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane). Sample 8 had a delta E of 3.08 which was much better than those of the nonionic polymers/copolymers in formulas represented by Samples 1, 5, 6 and 7. Moreover, there was also improvement in reducing streaking. Best performance was exhibited by Sample 3 which is a formula according to the present invention utilizing a cationic polymer. Sample 3 imparted to skin a significant enhancement of the tanning effect and no streaking was observed.
EXAMPLE 10 Experiments with but one exception identical to those of example 9 were conducted and reported hereunder. The same base formula and samples were utilized to evaluate differences in intensity of colour prior to any rinse.
Table V and Vl record two sets of colour enhancement measurements (delta E), the latter set being performed several months subsequent to the former. In all other respects, the experiments of tables V and Vl were done identically.
TABLE V
Figure imgf000015_0001
(i) Simulgel NS is a Seppic trademark for hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate polymer.
(ii) Simulgel 7688 MP is a Seppic trademark for acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane copolymer. TABLE Vl
Figure imgf000016_0001
(i) Simulgel NS is a Seppic trademark for hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acrylodimethyltaurate polymer.
(ii) Aristoflex® AVC is a Clariant Corp. trademark for acryloyl dimethyltaurate/vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer.
(iii) Sepigel® 305 is a Seppic trademark for polyacrylamide.
(iv) Merquat® 5 is a Nalco Corp. trademark for acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium methylsulfate copolymer.
Sample 3 represents the present invention. Intensity of colour change reached 9.62 (delta E). Addition of distearyl dimonium chloride (0.2%) to the Simulgel 7688 cationic polymer (1.5%) resulted in a further colouration enhancement to 10.85 (delta E) (see Sample 4). By comparison, Samples 5 and 6 representing nonionic acrylo type polymers managed only to increase the delta E to values of 1.99 and 2.10, respectively. Merquat® 5 which is a non-crosslinked cationic polyacrylamide and methacryloyl type polymer had an appreciable colour intensity enhancement. Sample 8 exhibited a 5.19 delta E. However, the crosslinked cationic copolymer of Sample 3 exhibited a significantly higher delta E value.

Claims

CLAIMS:
1. A cosmetic product for imparting a glow or sunless tan to skin comprising:
(i) from 0.1 to 20% by weight of a tanning agent which is reactive with skin to produce a tan colour; (ii) from 0. 1 to 20% by weig ht of a colour enhancing agent which is a crosslinked cationic copolymer comprising monomer units of methacryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salt or acryloylethyl tri(CrC3 alkyl) ammonium salt; and (iii) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
2. A product according to claim 1 wherein the tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone.
3. A product according to claim 1 or claim 2 wherein the cationic copolymer comprises further monomer units selected from the group consisting of styrene, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, vinyl chloride, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone, isoprene, vinyl alcohol, vinyl methylether, chloro-styrene, dialkylamino-styrene, maleic acid, acrylamide, methacrylamide, tris(hydroxymethyl)-acrylamidomethane and mixtures thereof.
4. A product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the salt is selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, sulfate, sulfonate, methosulfate, nitrate, tosylate, phosphate and phosphonate.
5. A product according to claim 1 wherein the crosslinked cationic copolymer is acrylamide/acryloylethyl trimethylammonium chloride/tris(hydroxymethyl- acrylamidomethane) copolymer.
6. A product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the crosslinked cationic copolymer is present in an amount from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition.
7. A product according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the tanning agent is present in an amount from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition.
8. A product according to any one of the preceding claims further comprising from 0.01 to 5% by weight of a monomeric quaternary ammonium salt.
9. A product according to claim 8 wherein the monomeric quaternary ammonium salt is a di(C12-C22) fatty alkyl substituted ammonium salt.
10. A product according to claim 8 wherein the monomeric quaternary ammonium salt is distearyl dimonium chloride.
PCT/EP2009/051024 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers WO2009103601A1 (en)

Priority Applications (9)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP09712531A EP2242541B1 (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers
KR1020107018323A KR101530741B1 (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers
MX2010009098A MX2010009098A (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers.
CN200980105502.8A CN101945687B (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning color enhancement by cationic copolymers
ES09712531T ES2401943T3 (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Enhancement of sunless tan color and gloss by cationic copolymers
CA2715057A CA2715057C (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers
AU2009216882A AU2009216882B2 (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers
JP2010547132A JP5481393B2 (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Enhancement of luster and non-sun tan color by cationic copolymer
ZA2010/05428A ZA201005428B (en) 2008-02-19 2010-07-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US2964908P 2008-02-19 2008-02-19
US61/029,649 2008-02-19

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009103601A1 true WO2009103601A1 (en) 2009-08-27

Family

ID=40513808

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2009/051024 WO2009103601A1 (en) 2008-02-19 2009-01-29 Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers

Country Status (11)

Country Link
US (1) US7780954B2 (en)
EP (1) EP2242541B1 (en)
JP (1) JP5481393B2 (en)
KR (1) KR101530741B1 (en)
CN (1) CN101945687B (en)
AU (1) AU2009216882B2 (en)
CA (1) CA2715057C (en)
ES (1) ES2401943T3 (en)
MX (1) MX2010009098A (en)
WO (1) WO2009103601A1 (en)
ZA (1) ZA201005428B (en)

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8105617B2 (en) * 2008-02-19 2012-01-31 Conopco, Inc. Cationic copolymers formulated with pigmented cosmetic compositions exhibiting radiance with soft focus
US9174871B2 (en) 2012-11-02 2015-11-03 Empire Technology Development Llc Cement slurries having pyranose polymers
US9238774B2 (en) 2012-11-02 2016-01-19 Empire Technology Development Llc Soil fixation, dust suppression and water retention
WO2014088555A1 (en) 2012-12-04 2014-06-12 Empire Technology Development Llc High performance acrylamide adhesives
EP2873968B1 (en) 2013-11-14 2016-08-10 Nxp B.V. Capacitive sensing system and method
EP2876810B1 (en) 2013-11-22 2016-04-13 Samba Holdco Netherlands B.V. Doherty Amplifier
GB2562133A (en) * 2016-10-31 2018-11-07 Australian Gold Llc Sunless tanning composition comprising soluble and insoluble silicone-containing polymers
EP3648735B1 (en) * 2017-07-06 2022-10-12 DSM IP Assets B.V. Novel use

Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4676913A (en) * 1981-12-18 1987-06-30 The Dow Chemical Company Coal liquor clarification with water-soluble, high molecular weight polymers having low concentration of cationic moieties
US5051487A (en) * 1989-03-20 1991-09-24 Nalco Chemical Company Hydrophobic cationic terpolymers from acrylamide, dimethylaminoethylacrylate methyl chloride or sulfate and vinyl acetate
WO1994002176A1 (en) * 1992-07-28 1994-02-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Pharmaceutical composition for topical use containing a crosslinked cationic polymer and an alkoxylated ether
US5637306A (en) * 1993-03-16 1997-06-10 L'oreal Use in cosmetics or in topical application of an aqueous dispersion based on nonvolatile organopolysiloxanes and on a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride polymer of homopolymer or copolymer with acrylamide type
US5700452A (en) * 1993-04-16 1997-12-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions for imparting an artificial tan and protecting the skin from ultra-violet radiation
WO2000053815A1 (en) * 1999-03-10 2000-09-14 Nalco Chemical Company A detectable cationic flocculant and method of using same in industrial food processes
US6277892B1 (en) * 1991-10-16 2001-08-21 Schering-Plough Healthcare Products, Inc. Enhanced skin penetration system for improved topical delivery of drugs
US20050014893A1 (en) * 2001-10-17 2005-01-20 Olivier Braun Tris(hydroxymethyl) acrylamidomethane polmer, inverse latex and microlatex containing same, use of said polymer, inverse latex and microlatex
WO2005027862A1 (en) * 2003-09-19 2005-03-31 Unilever N.V. Oral composition comprising a copolymer comprising cationic and anionic or neutral comonomers

Family Cites Families (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5232688A (en) * 1992-06-17 1993-08-03 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. Self-tanner cosmetic compositions
FR2776923B1 (en) * 1998-04-06 2003-01-10 Oreal DYE COMPOSITION FOR KERATINIC FIBERS WITH CATIONIC DIRECT DYE AND SUBSTANTIVE POLYMER
US6344185B1 (en) * 1999-01-29 2002-02-05 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Self-tanning composition
US6664287B2 (en) * 2000-03-15 2003-12-16 Bethesda Pharmaceuticals, Inc. Antioxidants
US6432389B1 (en) * 2001-07-06 2002-08-13 Societe L'oreal High SPF nontacky/nongreasy UV-photoprotecting compositions comprising particulates of MMA crosspolymers
FR2850866B1 (en) * 2003-02-06 2007-04-20 Seppic Sa MIXTURE OF SELF-REVERSIBLE REVERSE LATEX AND POWDER FOR COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL USE; USE AS A TEXTURE AGENT
FR2851251B1 (en) * 2003-02-13 2005-04-08 Seppic Sa NEW CATIONIC THICKENERS, PROCESS FOR THEIR PREPARATION AND COMPOSITION CONTAINING THE SAME
FR2861397B1 (en) * 2003-10-22 2006-01-20 Soc Dexploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic NEW CONCENTRATED REVERSE LATEX, PROCESS FOR PREPARATION AND USE IN INDUSTRY
KR101197489B1 (en) * 2005-09-05 2012-11-09 가부시키가이샤 시세이도 Self-tanning cosmetic
EP1880707A1 (en) * 2006-07-21 2008-01-23 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Method and composition for permanently shaping hair
ITVA20060049A1 (en) * 2006-08-03 2008-02-04 Lamberti Spa USEFUL INVERSE EMULSIONS AS THICKENERS FOR COSMETICS

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4676913A (en) * 1981-12-18 1987-06-30 The Dow Chemical Company Coal liquor clarification with water-soluble, high molecular weight polymers having low concentration of cationic moieties
US5051487A (en) * 1989-03-20 1991-09-24 Nalco Chemical Company Hydrophobic cationic terpolymers from acrylamide, dimethylaminoethylacrylate methyl chloride or sulfate and vinyl acetate
US6277892B1 (en) * 1991-10-16 2001-08-21 Schering-Plough Healthcare Products, Inc. Enhanced skin penetration system for improved topical delivery of drugs
WO1994002176A1 (en) * 1992-07-28 1994-02-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Pharmaceutical composition for topical use containing a crosslinked cationic polymer and an alkoxylated ether
US5637306A (en) * 1993-03-16 1997-06-10 L'oreal Use in cosmetics or in topical application of an aqueous dispersion based on nonvolatile organopolysiloxanes and on a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride polymer of homopolymer or copolymer with acrylamide type
US5700452A (en) * 1993-04-16 1997-12-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions for imparting an artificial tan and protecting the skin from ultra-violet radiation
WO2000053815A1 (en) * 1999-03-10 2000-09-14 Nalco Chemical Company A detectable cationic flocculant and method of using same in industrial food processes
US20050014893A1 (en) * 2001-10-17 2005-01-20 Olivier Braun Tris(hydroxymethyl) acrylamidomethane polmer, inverse latex and microlatex containing same, use of said polymer, inverse latex and microlatex
WO2005027862A1 (en) * 2003-09-19 2005-03-31 Unilever N.V. Oral composition comprising a copolymer comprising cationic and anionic or neutral comonomers

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
ASEYEV V O ET AL: "Collapse of poly(methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium methylsulfate) on addition of acetone into an aqueous solution", POLYMER, ELSEVIER SCIENCE PUBLISHERS B.V, GB, vol. 40, no. 5, 1 March 1999 (1999-03-01), pages 1173 - 1180, XP004141096, ISSN: 0032-3861 *
HOLDEN C: "FORMULATING HAIR AND SKIN PRODUCTS MORE EFFECTIVELY", SPECIALITY CHEMICALS, REDHILL, GB, vol. 16, no. 1, 1 January 1996 (1996-01-01), pages 21 - 23, XP002071540, ISSN: 0262-2262 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2715057A1 (en) 2009-08-27
AU2009216882A1 (en) 2009-08-27
CN101945687A (en) 2011-01-12
US20090208430A1 (en) 2009-08-20
CN101945687B (en) 2014-06-18
KR20100117608A (en) 2010-11-03
KR101530741B1 (en) 2015-06-22
JP2011512375A (en) 2011-04-21
EP2242541A1 (en) 2010-10-27
EP2242541B1 (en) 2013-01-02
ZA201005428B (en) 2011-10-26
ES2401943T3 (en) 2013-04-25
US7780954B2 (en) 2010-08-24
JP5481393B2 (en) 2014-04-23
CA2715057C (en) 2016-03-22
AU2009216882B2 (en) 2012-03-08
MX2010009098A (en) 2010-11-30

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
AU2009216882B2 (en) Glow and sunless tanning colour enhancement by cationic copolymers
JP4871873B2 (en) Personal care products containing dihydroxypropyltri (C1-C3 alkyl) ammonium salts
DE602005004176T2 (en) BODY CARE COMPOSITIONS WITH SALTS OF HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIALKYLAMMONIUM-SUBSTITUTED MONOSACCHARIDES
EP1842528B1 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising at least one hydroxy acid, at least one mono- or disaccharide and at least one ceramide, and process for the preparation thereof
JP2004528323A (en) Cosmetic composition containing dispersed polymer
BRPI0516298B1 (en) personal care composition and wetting method
DE10022077A1 (en) Compositions for use as hair or skin cosmetics or as cleaning agents for e.g. glass, metals, plastics or leather contain 2-furanone derivatives
BRPI0707077A2 (en) edically acceptable composition and method of treating a keratinous substance
DE102015223196A1 (en) Agents and methods for cleaning and / or caring for damaged keratinic fibers
DE10113446A1 (en) Pharmaceutical or cosmetic hair treatment agents, especially for promoting hair growth, contain a betaine, especially carnitine, histidine, taurine, choline or betaine or their derivatives
DE19823552A1 (en) Preparation for the treatment of human skin and human hair with a special combination of active ingredients and use of this combination of active ingredients
AU2008257695B2 (en) Enhanced delivery of certain fragrance components from personal care compositions
EP1513484B1 (en) Use of ectoin and ectoin derivatives for the treatment of hair
JP2000178125A (en) Cosmetics for skin
DE10258394A1 (en) Tissue for keratin fiber care comprises combination of cationic compounds (especially surfactants) with polyhydroxy compounds
WO2008031685A1 (en) Root extract of harpagophytum for stimulating hair growth
TW200404573A (en) Cosmetic compositions containing salts of malonic acid
FR2847808A1 (en) Cosmetic composition, especially hair shampoo, contains solid mineral particles, e.g. calcium carbonate, and polyalkyleneimine, e.g. polyethyleneimine
JPH09175929A (en) Cosmetic
EP2054013A1 (en) Bioquinones for stimulating keratin synthesis

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 200980105502.8

Country of ref document: CN

121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 09712531

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

DPE1 Request for preliminary examination filed after expiration of 19th month from priority date (pct application filed from 20040101)
WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2009712531

Country of ref document: EP

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2009216882

Country of ref document: AU

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2715057

Country of ref document: CA

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 12010501849

Country of ref document: PH

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 20107018323

Country of ref document: KR

Kind code of ref document: A

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2010547132

Country of ref document: JP

Ref document number: 1752/MUMNP/2010

Country of ref document: IN

Ref document number: MX/A/2010/009098

Country of ref document: MX

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

ENP Entry into the national phase

Ref document number: 2009216882

Country of ref document: AU

Date of ref document: 20090129

Kind code of ref document: A