WO2009017745A1

WO2009017745A1 - Shoe with sock lining and elastic collar

Info

Publication number: WO2009017745A1
Application number: PCT/US2008/009187
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anyi Lu
Original assignee: Anyi Lu
Priority date: 2007-07-30
Filing date: 2008-07-30
Publication date: 2009-02-05
Also published as: US20090031582A1

Abstract

A flexible foot-conforming shoe 10 has an upper assembly 18 attached to a bottom assembly 26. The upper assembly 18 includes a vamp 12 having an upper edge 34 to which an upper sock lining 14 is attached. An elastic strip 16 is also attached to the upper edge 34 of the vamp 12 to form an elastic collar for hugging the instep of a foot inserted in the shoe 10. The bottom assembly 26 has a bottom sock lining 20 including a perimeter edge 46. This perimeter edge 46 is fastened to a lower attachment edge 47 of the upper sock lining 14 to form a sock lining for surrounding the foot.

Description

SHOE WITH SOCK LINING AND ELASTIC COLLAR

This application claims the benefit of U.S. Patent Application No. 12/177,861 filed July 22, 2008, which claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/952,762 filed July 30, 2007. TECHNICAL FIELD

[001] This invention is directed to shoes, and, more particularly, to an improved shoe combining a stitched sock lining, sometimes described as a Sacchetto construction, with an elastic collar upper or an open toe upper. BACKGROUND ART [002] An established method for making shoes is known as "force lasting" in which parts of the shoe are sewn onto a "sock." The sock is then pulled onto a last. Finally, a shaped outer sole is attached to finish the shoe. This technique is sometimes also known as slip lasting, or California construction. Force lasting results in a light, flexible, and comfortable shoe, wherein the foot is surrounded by a sock lining. A particularly desirable variant of force lasting construction is known as the Sacchetto technique.

[003] Construction of a shoe according to the Sacchetto technique begins with sewing together an upper sock lining with the vamp of the shoe to create an upper assembly. In this application, "vamp" is intended to refer to the upper outside covering of the shoe. The upper assembly thereafter is sewn to a multi-layer bottom assembly, which includes a bottom sock lining over a soft and pliable inner sole. In a preferred method of Sacchetto construction, a layer of cushioning foam is interposed between the bottom sock lining and the inner sole, forming a soft three-layered assembly. In conventional "mounted" construction, the inner sole is constructed of a more rigid material which provides a stiffer bottom. In contrast, sewing the upper assembly to the multi-layer bottom assembly according to the Sacchetto technique results in a sock-like configuration the inside layer of which is a sock lining, intended ultimately for direct contact with the foot, supported by a light and flexible bottom. Sacchetto construction has distinct advantages, in that it conforms the shoe to the bottom of the foot, allows the upper to mold around the foot to accommodate a broader range of wide and narrow feet, molds comfortably around bunions, eliminates the need for an inner sole board, as used in "mounted" constructions, and produces a light, flexible and comfortable shoe.

[004] Another well known shoe construction technique involves the placement of a strip of elastic material around the collar of the upper portion of a shoe creating an "elastic collar." The elastic collar hugs and conforms the top line of the shoe to the

5 shape of the foot, and accommodates a wide or narrow base of the instep, a high or low center of the instep, a wide or narrow heel, and a wide or narrow ankle. [005] A shoe constructed according to the Sacchetto technique has not heretofore been combined with an elastic collar upper. This may be because it is a considerable technical challenge to align and hold in position an elastic collar upper 0 while sewing it to the bottom assembly according to the Sacchetto technique. This may be better understood by a more precise analysis of the Sacchetto technique. When preparing parts of a shoe for Sacchetto construction, the pattern for every piece must be as precise as possible. The pattern maker will generally cut each piece according to a cardboard pattern. There is very little tolerance for error, with

15 usually only about 1mm allowed for stitching. The upper sock lining is generally stitched to the vamp to create an upper assembly. The bottom sock lining, optional cushioning material, and pliable inner sole are stitched together to create the bottom assembly. Thereafter, the upper assembly is stitched to the bottom assembly to create the Sacchetto "sock." If, however, elastic strips are first attached to the collar,

>0 as described above, the upper assembly will tend to distort when the elastic is allowed to relax, making it very challenging to stitch the precisely cut upper pieces to the bottom assembly to create the Sacchetto sock.

[006] Similarly, an open toe shoe constructed in accordance with the Sacchetto technique is not seen in the prior art due to technical difficulties encountered when

>5 resting the sock lining on the shoemaker's last. After the sock lining is created, it is generally slipped on the last and allowed to rest for a period of time so that the sock takes on the desirable shape of the last. Since the sock lining is cut to precise dimensions, the last creates a substantial amount of pressure in the sock lining which tends to strain any seams or openings in the sock lining. For this reason, it

*0 has been thought too difficult to make an open toe shoe constructed using the Sacchetto technique. [007] Accordingly, no shoe in the prior art has ever been developed that combines the advantages of Sacchetto construction and an elastic collar upper or an open toe upper.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[008] Fig. 1 A is a side elevation of an improved shoe comprising a Sacchetto 5 constructed shoe with an elastic collar upper according to the invention.

[009] Fig. 1 B is a side elevation view of the shoe depicted in Fig. 1 A shown slipped on a foot.

[0010] Fig. 2A is an exploded upper left perspective view of the shoe depicted in

Fig. 1A. 0 [0011] Fig. 2B is a modified exploded upper left perspective view similar to Fig. 2A but showing the upper parts of the shoe joined into an upper assembly, the bottom parts joined into a bottom assembly, and a cutaway section revealing the upper lining.

[0012] Fig. 2C is another modified exploded upper left perspective view similar to 5 Fig. 2B showing the upper assembly fastened to the bottom assembly, and a partial cutaway section of the upper revealing the upper lining.

[0013] Fig. 2D is an upper left perspective view of the fully assembled shoe depicted in Fig. 1A.

[0014] Fig. 3A is a exploded sectional view of the shoe taken along line 3-3 of Fig. :0 2D.

[0015] Fig. 3B is a sectional view taken along line 3-3 of Fig. 2D showing the vamp, upper sock lining and elastic collar strip stitched together.

[0016] Fig. 3C is a sectional view taken along line 3-3 of Fig. 2D similar to that shown in Fig. 3B showing the upper sock lining of the upper assembly stitched to the :5 bottom assembly.

[0017] Fig. 3D is a sectional view taken along line 3-3 of Fig. 2D similar to that shown in Fig. 3C showing the outer sole attached to the bottom assembly.

[0018] Fig. 4 is an upper left perspective view of an alternate embodiment of an improved shoe having Sacchetto construction with an open toe. 0 [0019] Fig. 5 is a side elevation view of the shoe depicted in Fig. 4 shown slipped on a foot.

[0020] Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken along line 6-6 of Fig. 4 showing the vamp and upper sock lining stitched together, the upper sock lining of the upper assembly stitched to the bottom assembly, the vamp attached to the bottom assembly, and the outer sole attached to the lower edge of the vamp and to the bottom assembly. [0021] Fig. 7 is a sectional view taken along line 7-7 of Fig. 4 showing the outer sole

5 attached to the bottom assembly.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0022] An improved shoe, comprising a sock lining constructed using the Sacchetto technique in combination with an upper having an elastic collar, is generally indicated at 10 in Figs. 1A-1 B. As shown in Fig. 2A, the shoe 10 comprises a vamp 12, an

0 upper sock lining 14 and an elastic strip 16 collectively forming an upper assembly 18. A bottom sock lining 20, cushioning layer 22, and inner sole 24 form a bottom assembly 26. A wedge 28, heel 30 and outer sole 32 complete the bottom components of the shoe 10. Fig. 3A shows these components in their exploded relative positions in a sectional view through the middle portion of the shoe.

5 [0023] The vamp 12 has an upper edge 34 for defining a foot opening. The upper assembly 18 is fabricated by attaching the upper sock lining 14, vamp 12, and elastic strip 16 at seam S1 as shown in Fig. 3B. In the illustrated embodiment, a lower edge 36 of the elastic strip is attached to the vamp such that the upper part of the strip extends above the upper edge 34 of the vamp 12. However, the invention is

>0 intended to embrace attachment of the elastic strip to the vamp at any point across the width of the strip. The elastic strip 20 forms an elastic collar 38 extending around the foot opening of the shoe for hugging the instep of a foot inserted in the shoe 10 such as is shown in Fig. 1B. Stitching is the preferred modus of attachment for dress shoes although other methods may be possible such as using certain stretchable

15 adhesives. A completed upper assembly is shown in Fig. 2B.

[0024] In the illustrated embodiment a heel liner 40 extends between and joins the two rear edges 42 of the upper sock lining 14. This avoids positioning a potentially uncomfortable seam at the middle of the back of the shoe to join the rear edges 42 of a full length upper sock lining 14. The heel liner 40 may a considered part of one

50 form of the upper sock lining 14, but the invention should not be limited to an upper sock lining 14 having a heel liner 40, and is intended to include all forms of upper sock linings 16. [0025] The method by which the elastic strip 16 is attached to the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14 will now be described in detail. The upper edges of the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14 are aligned using seam notches or temporary markings familiar to those with skill in the art. Strips of elastic are cut to specific lengths

5 according to the pattern and size of the shoe being constructed to make the elastic strip 16. Temporary markings are then applied at spaced intervals to the elastic strip 16 so that when the strip 16 is stretched to a predetermined length, the markings align with the seam notches or markings on the vamp 12 or upper sock lining 14 or both. The markings may be made with any temporary marking substance, such as

0 tailor's chalk, which can be completely removed from the material after the shoe has been constructed. Once the elastic strip is properly marked, a length of it is stretched such that the marking on the strip aligns with the seam notches or markings on the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14. The properly stretched length is then fastened, at S1 , to the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14. Adjacent lengths of

5 the strip 16 are in like fashion fastened to the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14 until the entire elastic strip 16 has been fastened in place. The back edges of the strip (not illustrated) are joined with a seam, and generally a pull tab 44 is installed to cover the seam for reasons of comfort and aesthetics. Once the strip 16 is attached to the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14, the tabs may be trimmed as desired. After

!0 the elastic strip 16 has been completely stitched to the vamp 12 and upper sock lining 14, it is allowed to retract to its normal state as seen in Fig. 1 A, thereby deforming the vamp 12 to the extent of relaxation of the strip 16. Although in the preferred embodiment, the elastic strip 16 extends completely around the collar 24 of the shoe 10, in an alternate embodiment, the elastic strip 16 could extend rearwardly

•5 from each side of the throat of the collar 24 to a selected point toward the rear of the shoe.

[0026] As indicated above the bottom assembly 26 of the shoe 10 comprises a bottom sock lining 20, an intermediate cushioning layer 22, and an inner sole 24 which are combined in a layered construction as shown in Fig. 2B. The bottom sock

SO lining 20 is soft and pliable for a comfortable fit against the foot. In one embodiment of the shoe, the cushioning layer 22 comprises a polyurethane material. Applicant has found that polyurethane available from Rogers Corporation under the Poron® brand provides excellent support and has very favorable cushioning and memory properties. In the illustrated embodiment, the bottom sock lining 20 forms the top layer, the cushioning layer 22 the middle layer, and the inner sole 24 the bottom layer of the bottom assembly 26. The perimeter edge 46 (see Fig. 2B) of the bottom

5 assembly 26 is stitched, at S2, as shown in Fig. 2C and 3C, to the lower attachment edge 47 of the upper sock lining 14 of the upper assembly 18, to form a sock-like bag or lining for surrounding the foot, typical of Sacchetto construction as shown in Fig. 2C. In the illustrated embodiment each side of the upper sock lining 14 extends to the heel area of the shoe. Hence, the lower attachment edge 47 of the upper sock

0 lining 14 is not stitched to the bottom sock lining 20 near the heel of the shoe. In another embodiment the upper sock lining 20 will extend completely to the heel and will be fastened to the bottom sock lining 20 at all points around the perimeter edge 46. It will be appreciated that the bottom sock lining 20 need not be stitched along the entire perimeter edge 46 to the upper sock lining 14 and that the invention is

5 intended to include shoes in which only a portion of the upper sock lining 14 is attached to only a portion of the bottom sock lining 20. For example, in the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 4-7, the rearward portion of the bottom sock lining 20 is not stitched to the upper sock lining 14 in order to construct a sling-back type dress shoe.

IO [0027] The stitched sock lining as shown in Fig. 2C is then slipped on a shoemaker's last where it is generally left to rest for between 24 -72 hours to allow the sock lining to conform to the shape of the last. Next, the outer sole 32 is applied to the inner sole 24, generally by use of a strong adhesive, though other known methods may be utilized. Certain kinds of lifts, such as a wedge 28, may be

15 interposed between the inner sole 24 and outer sole 32, using known fastening means, generally a strong adhesive. See Figs. 2B-2D. Finally, application of a heel tap 48 to the bottom of the wedge 28 completes the shoe 10 as shown in Fig. 2D. Alternatively, a heel (not shown) may be affixed directly to the inner sole 24 or to the outer sole 32 according to methods known to those of skill in the art. In shoes where

>0 a heel is to be attached, the upper sock lining 14 and bottom sock lining 20 are not stitched in the area around the heel leaving a rearward portion of the bottom sock lining 20 detached from the upper sock lining 14. With the sock lining on the last, after the outer sole 32 is applied to the inner sole 24, as described above, the heel is firmly fixed to the outer sole 32 usually with adhesive, as shown in Figs. 2D and 3D. In a preferred high quality construction, the shoe is removed from the last and a screw is driven through the cushioning layer 22, inner sole 24, and outer sole 32 into

5 the heel for an especially firm attachment. Thereafter, the detached rear portion of the sock bottom is laid over and secured to the inner sole 24 to complete the shoe. [0028] The incorporation of an elastic collar upper into a Sacchetto constructed shoe results in a shoe 10 that is light and extraordinarily flexible, and which conforms to and wears securely on the foot.

[0 [0029] A sling-back type embodiment of the shoe is indicated generally at 50 in Fig. 4. As shown in Figs. 4-7, the sling-back embodiment comprises an upper assembly 52 in which is formed a toe opening 54. The bottom assembly 56 of the shoe 50 is similar to that shown in the embodiment illustrated in Figs. 1-3D. The upper assembly 52 includes a vamp 58 having an upper edge 60 for defining a foot

15 opening. An upper sock lining 62 is attached to the vamp 60, at S1 , as shown in Fig. 6. The bottom assembly 56 includes a bottom sock lining 64, an inner sole 66, with an intermediate cushioning layer 68.

[0030] The bottom assembly 44 is joined to the upper assembly 52, at S2, as shown in Fig. 6, by stitching the lower attachment edge 70 of the upper sock lining

»0 62 to the perimeter edge 72 of the bottom assembly 56 to form a sock lining. As with the embodiment discussed first above, the rearward portion 74 of the bottom sock lining 58 is not fastened to the upper sock lining 62 in order to fashion the rearwardly extending strap 76. The toe opening 54 is defined by the forward edge 80 of the upper assembly 52 and the forward portion 82 of the bottom assembly 44. See Figs.

>5 4, 5 and 7. An outer sole 84 is attached to the inner sole 66 as shown in Fig. 6.

Finally, a heel or wedge 86 may be affixed as discussed above to complete the shoe 50 as shown in Figs. 4 and 5.

[0031] The open toe embodiment of the invention has all the advantages of Sacchetto construction in a light, flexible, open toe, sling-back style dress sandal.

IO [0032] There have thus been described certain preferred embodiments of an improved shoe. While preferred embodiments have been described and disclosed, it will be recognized by those with skill in the art that modifications are within the true spirit and scope of the invention. The appended claims are intended to cover all such modifications.

Claims

I claim: 1. A flexible foot-conforming shoe comprising: a vamp and an upper sock lining attached to said vamp, said vamp having an upper edge, said upper sock lining having a lower attachment edge, an elastic strip fastened to said upper edge of said vamp to form an upper assembly having an elastic collar for hugging the collar of the shoe to the instep of a foot inserted in the shoe, and a bottom assembly having a bottom sock lining, said bottom sock lining having a perimeter edge, said lower attachment edge of said upper sock lining fastened to said perimeter edge to form a sock lining for surrounding the foot.

2. The shoe of claim 1 wherein: said upper sock lining is attached to said upper edge of said vamp.

3. The shoe of claim 1 wherein: said upper sock lining is stitched to said bottom sock lining.

4. The shoe of claim 3 wherein: said bottom sock lining has a rearward portion, and said upper sock lining is not stitched to said rearward portion of said bottom sock lining.

5. The shoe of claim 1 wherein: said bottom assembly has an inner sole and a cushioning layer interposed between said bottom sock lining and said inner sole.

6. The shoe of claim 5 further comprising: an outer sole attached to said inner sole.

7. The shoe of claim 6 further comprising: a wedge interposed between said inner sole and said outer sole.

8. The shoe of claim 6 further comprising: a heel affixed to said outer sole.

9. A flexible foot-conforming shoe comprising: an upper assembly having a vamp and an upper sock lining attached to said vamp, said vamp having an upper edge for defining a foot opening, said upper sock lining attached to said upper edge of said vamp, said upper sock lining having a lower attachment edge, an elastic strip fastened to said upper edge of said vamp to form an elastic collar for hugging the collar of the shoe to the instep of a foot inserted in the shoe, a bottom assembly comprising a bottom sock lining, an inner sole, an intermediate cushioning layer interposed between said bottom sock lining and said inner sole, and a perimeter edge, said lower attachment edge of said upper sock lining fastened to said perimeter edge to form a sock lining for surrounding the foot, and an outer sole affixed to said inner sole.

10. A method of making a flexible foot-conforming shoe, comprising: fastening an elastic strip to a vamp at an upper edge of said vamp and to an upper sock lining to form an upper assembly having an elastic collar for hugging the collar of the shoe to the instep of a foot inserted in the shoe, and fastening a lower attachment edge of said upper sock lining to a perimeter edge of a bottom sock lining to form a sock lining for surrounding the foot.

11. The method of making a shoe of claim 10 wherein: said fastening said lower attachment edge of said upper sock lining to said perimeter edge of said bottom sock lining is performed by stitching.

12. The method of making a shoe of claim 11 wherein: said fastening of said elastic strip to said vamp and to said upper sock lining is performed by stitching.

13. A flexible foot-conforming shoe comprising: an upper assembly having a vamp, an upper sock lining and a forward edge, said vamp having an upper edge for defining a foot opening, said upper sock lining attached to said vamp, and said upper sock lining having a lower attachment edge, a bottom assembly having a bottom sock lining and a forward portion, said bottom sock lining having a perimeter edge, said lower attachment edge of said upper sock lining fastened to said perimeter edge to form a sock lining for surrounding the foot, and a toe opening defined by said forward edge of said upper assembly and said forward portion of said bottom assembly.

14. The shoe of claim 13 wherein: said upper sock lining is attached to said upper edge of said vamp.

15. The shoe of claim 13 wherein: said upper sock lining is stitched to said bottom sock lining.

16. The shoe of claim 13 wherein: said bottom sock lining has a rearward portion, and said upper sock lining is detached from said rearward portion of said bottom sock lining.

17. The shoe of claim 13 wherein: said bottom assembly has an inner sole and a cushioning layer interposed between said bottom sock lining and said inner sole.

18. The shoe of claim 17 further comprising: an outer sole attached to said inner sole.

19. The shoe of claim 18 further comprising: a wedge interposed between said inner sole and said outer sole.

20. The shoe of claim 18 further comprising: a heel affixed to said outer sole.

21. A flexible foot-conforming shoe comprising: an upper assembly having a vamp, an upper sock lining and a forward edge, said vamp having an upper edge for defining a foot opening, said upper sock lining attached to said vamp, and said upper sock lining having a lower attachment edge, a bottom assembly having a bottom sock lining, an inner sole, a cushioning layer, a forward portion, and a perimeter edge, said cushioning layer interposed between said bottom sock lining and said inner sole, said lower attachment edge of said upper sock lining fastened to said perimeter edge of said bottom sock lining to form a sock lining for surrounding the foot, and a toe opening defined by said forward edge of said upper assembly and said forward portion of said bottom assembly.