WO2009000371A1 - Production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009000371A1
WO2009000371A1 PCT/EP2008/003851 EP2008003851W WO2009000371A1 WO 2009000371 A1 WO2009000371 A1 WO 2009000371A1 EP 2008003851 W EP2008003851 W EP 2008003851W WO 2009000371 A1 WO2009000371 A1 WO 2009000371A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
last
printer
powder
procedure according
lasts
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2008/003851
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Sergio Dulio
Ezio Ratti
Original Assignee
Magari S.R.L.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Magari S.R.L. filed Critical Magari S.R.L.
Publication of WO2009000371A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009000371A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00—Lasts
    • A43D3/02—Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C64/00—Additive manufacturing, i.e. manufacturing of three-dimensional [3D] objects by additive deposition, additive agglomeration or additive layering, e.g. by 3D printing, stereolithography or selective laser sintering
    • B29C64/10—Processes of additive manufacturing
    • B29C64/165—Processes of additive manufacturing using a combination of solid and fluid materials, e.g. a powder selectively bound by a liquid binder, catalyst, inhibitor or energy absorber

Definitions

  • the present invention refers to a production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes. Said procedure is particularly suitable to be used directly in a shoe factory or even at a shoe retail outlet, particularly for the production of custom lasts for producing made-to-measure shoes.
  • shoes made-to-measure or otherwise
  • lasts which substantially reflect the shape of the user's foot. That is to say, the part of the shoe called the upper is fitted onto the last and subjected to high traction stresses and impacts to adapt it to the size of the last and to perform the various stages of the manufacturing process. As a result, the last too is designed to withstand high mechanical stresses.
  • the lasts are generally made of polyethylene, through a rotary cutting procedure by means of computerised numerical control (CNC) lathes.
  • the most advantageous from a financial and practical point of view is the three-dimensional printing by means of the so-called "3D printers".
  • This technology is based on the selective infiltration (that is, performed in very precise areas of the working area) of a powder material (generally a chalk-based or a powder of composite material) with a jet of water-based adhesive as solvent.
  • the layers of powder infiltrated with the adhesive solidify to form three-dimensional objects.
  • the object that is obtained is very fragile and has to be manipulated with care to avoid damaging it.
  • the three-dimensional object is sprayed with a hardening epoxy resin that serves the purpose of reducing its fragility and of allowing manipulation thereof without the risk of breakage.
  • the three-dimensional printing is also beginning to find a partial application in the footwear industry for producing samples and prototypes of soles in plastic material, heels and other accessories and, lastly, for the production of last prototypes.
  • the use of products manufactured with this technology is limited only to the design stage.
  • the adhesive that infiltrates and solidifies it is designed for an easy applicability and for a low cost and not for giving the three-dimensional object a high, long-lasting strength;
  • the 3D printing technology is optimised to provide rapid prototype production times and limited costs; it is not designed to allow the manufacture of strong objects, such as shoe lasts, destined to be subjected to high stresses during the shoe manufacturing process.
  • Object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art by providing a last production procedure that is practical, versatile, cheap and simple to carry out, so that it can be used directly in shoe factories.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide such a process that is able to produce lasts that have a good surface finishing and at the same time are adapted to withstand the mechanical stresses to which they are subjected during the shoe manufacturing process.
  • the procedure according to the invention provides for the use of a 3D printer to produce lasts that are suitable to be used in the shoe manufacturing process.
  • the 3D printing procedure has been suitably improved to increase the characteristics of strength of said last so that it can withstand the stresses typical of the shoe manufacturing process.
  • the last production procedure according to the invention provides for the direct production of custom lasts starting from digital data (3D mathematical model of the individual last), in turn obtained, with a suitable processing, from the morphometric data of the client's foot. The lasts are produced directly at the retail outlet to which the client has gone or in the production unit where the shoes are manufactured.
  • the 3D printer comprises:
  • a container containing a hardening adhesive and - at least one head adapted to spray said adhesive onto a layer of powder contained in the bin, according to a predefined work path, so as to solidify the layer of powder along said predefined work path.
  • the last production process according to the invention comprises the following steps:
  • a three-dimensional mathematical model (CAD) of the last to be produced is formulated by means of a computer with suitable software.
  • Said 3D mathematical model is sectioned mathematically with parallel planes that identify the work area in which the 3D printer head can operate.
  • the intersection between the planes and the 3D model identifies the work path along which the printer head must spray the hardening adhesive.
  • the planes are set at a distance from one another in a range of 0.01 mm to 0.2 mm (according to the required precision).
  • the 3D printer by means of the bin, spreads a first layer of powder material to be solidified, filling a surface equal to the working area of the head (approximately 20 x 25 cm).
  • Said layer of powder is of a thickness defined according to the required production precision (precisely, between 0.01 mm and 0.2 mm, that is the distance between the sectioning planes).
  • the gluing head moving inside this working area, sprays the powder material contained in the bin of the machine with a suitably formulated adhesive along the identified work path. As a result, the whole sprayed surface, which corresponds to the flat section of the last to be produced, solidifies.
  • the bin is lowered by a measurement in millimetres equal to the thickness of the first layer of powder deposited (in turn a function of the precision required). The bin then spreads a second layer of powder material.
  • Steps 4 and 5 are then repeated a number of times equal to the number of planes of section on which the last to be produced has been calculated.
  • the last composed of the various layers into which it has been sectioned, is completely solidified and is immersed in unsolidified powder (which thus also serves to support said last).
  • unsolidified powder which thus also serves to support said last.
  • the excess material is removed by suction and it is possible at this point to remove the last from the 3D printer.
  • the last is advantageously formed by a shell that is hollow on the inside. However, it may also be solid.
  • the technical solution that has been designed has the following characteristics: - the last is made as a "shell” in that it is hollow on the inside; this characteristic is generated automatically by the mathematical model of said last.
  • the mathematical model has been so designed as to ensure a shell thickness such as to withstand the mechanical stresses typical of the shoe manufacturing. For financial reasons due to the cost of the material, a shell with the smallest possible thickness obtainable was made and then experimental tests were carried out to test the strength of the shell.
  • the mathematical model has been set up so as to produce a last in two separable parts: a base half shell and a wedge-shaped upper half shell. This is done for a dual purpose: on the one hand to allow an access to the inner (hollow) part of the last and, on the other hand to allow the last to be removed from the shoe, once the manufacturing process thereof has been completed.
  • the hollow part inside the last is filled with a high-strength, low- cost filling material, which serves to increase the strength of the shell thus filled, making it able to withstand the mechanical stresses of manufacturing.
  • the filling material used is preferably epoxy resin, which is able to ensure the required characteristics.
  • another suitable filling material may also be used, such as silicone or polyurethane, for example.
  • the applicant has further developed a new formulation of the liquid adhesive material by using a liquid hardening material of the polymerisable type.
  • This polymerisable liquid material is used by the 3D printer by the same way as the original one (sprayed though the print heads), but it has a greater capacity to bind with the powder material that is being solidified.
  • the powder material used in the 3D printer is generally chalk and/or talcum powder to which additives have been added to make it more easily solidifiable.
  • the last leaving the 3D printer is preferably sprayed with epoxy resin, which gives the final product the necessary mechanical strength and avoids an excessive fragility thereof.
  • the last can be subjected to a polymerisation process (heating in an oven at adequate temperatures and for suitable times).

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Optics & Photonics (AREA)

Abstract

A production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes is disclosed. The lasts are made by means of a 3D printer which comprises a moveable bin containing a powder to be hardened, a container containing a hardening adhesive and at least one head adapted to spray said adhesive onto a layer of powder contained in the bin, according to a predefined work path, so as to solidify the layer of powder along said predefined work path. The last production procedure is perfected so as to obtain lasts adapted to withstand the stresses typical of the shoe manufacturing process.

Description

PRODUCTION PROCEDURE FOR LASTS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES
DESCRIPTION
The present invention refers to a production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes. Said procedure is particularly suitable to be used directly in a shoe factory or even at a shoe retail outlet, particularly for the production of custom lasts for producing made-to-measure shoes.
As is known, shoes (made-to-measure or otherwise) are made by means of lasts, which substantially reflect the shape of the user's foot. That is to say, the part of the shoe called the upper is fitted onto the last and subjected to high traction stresses and impacts to adapt it to the size of the last and to perform the various stages of the manufacturing process. As a result, the last too is designed to withstand high mechanical stresses.
The main requirements that must be met by a last are thus a precise surface finishing and at the same time a high mechanical resistance to the pressure and to the impacts. For this purpose, the lasts are generally made of polyethylene, through a rotary cutting procedure by means of computerised numerical control (CNC) lathes.
These machines and the related last production process prove excessively complex and costly. Therefore, the shoe manufacturer does not generally deal with the production of lasts and delegates this work to specialised third parties (last manufacturers). This leads to various drawbacks for the shoe manufacturer, who depends on the last manufacturer and cannot adequately control the level of customisation of the last.
In an attempt to improve the last production process, some shoe manufacturers make last prototypes, by means of rapid prototyping processes. What is meant by the term "rapid prototyping" is the direct manufacturing of an object, from a mathematical model, by means of "accretion" (or additive) methods. The object is obtained by a selective solidification of thin layers of material (consisting of resins in the liquid or solid state or of powders), according to the final precision that is to be obtained and to the desired level of surface finishing.
These rapid prototyping methods allow last prototypes to be obtained for the production of shoe prototypes on which to carry out various assessments of a prevalently aesthetic type. These last prototypes are not suitable to be used in a production setting (manufacture of shoes on said lasts), because of the low structural strength of the material used, which (because of its fragility) is not able to withstand the typical stresses of the manufacturing. In fact the shoe prototypes are fitted manually on such last prototypes to avoid breaking the last.
Among the rapid prototyping methods, the most advantageous from a financial and practical point of view is the three-dimensional printing by means of the so-called "3D printers". This technology is based on the selective infiltration (that is, performed in very precise areas of the working area) of a powder material (generally a chalk-based or a powder of composite material) with a jet of water-based adhesive as solvent. The layers of powder infiltrated with the adhesive solidify to form three-dimensional objects.
However, the object that is obtained is very fragile and has to be manipulated with care to avoid damaging it. For this purpose the three-dimensional object is sprayed with a hardening epoxy resin that serves the purpose of reducing its fragility and of allowing manipulation thereof without the risk of breakage.
The three-dimensional printing is also beginning to find a partial application in the footwear industry for producing samples and prototypes of soles in plastic material, heels and other accessories and, lastly, for the production of last prototypes. However, for the reasons set out previously, the use of products manufactured with this technology is limited only to the design stage.
In particular, the last prototypes manufactured with the 3D printing method cannot be used in the shoe manufacturing process because of their inability to withstand the mechanical stresses of the production.
This lack of mechanical strength is due to various reasons: - the material used to make the item is designed prevalently to manufacture an aesthetic prototype, so it is optimised to be solidified (glued) rapidly, but not to last;.
- the adhesive that infiltrates and solidifies it is designed for an easy applicability and for a low cost and not for giving the three-dimensional object a high, long-lasting strength;
- the hardening epoxy resin with which the item is finished after the solidification process penetrates only for a limited depth into the material and thus produces only a superficial hardening which does not ensure a high mechanical strength.
Essentially, the 3D printing technology is optimised to provide rapid prototype production times and limited costs; it is not designed to allow the manufacture of strong objects, such as shoe lasts, destined to be subjected to high stresses during the shoe manufacturing process.
Object of the present invention is to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art by providing a last production procedure that is practical, versatile, cheap and simple to carry out, so that it can be used directly in shoe factories.
Another object of the present invention is to provide such a process that is able to produce lasts that have a good surface finishing and at the same time are adapted to withstand the mechanical stresses to which they are subjected during the shoe manufacturing process.
These objects are achieved in accordance with the invention with the characteristics listed in the appended independent claim 1.
Advantageous embodiments of the invention are apparent from the dependent claims.
The procedure according to the invention provides for the use of a 3D printer to produce lasts that are suitable to be used in the shoe manufacturing process. For this purpose, the 3D printing procedure has been suitably improved to increase the characteristics of strength of said last so that it can withstand the stresses typical of the shoe manufacturing process. Preferably, the last production procedure according to the invention provides for the direct production of custom lasts starting from digital data (3D mathematical model of the individual last), in turn obtained, with a suitable processing, from the morphometric data of the client's foot. The lasts are produced directly at the retail outlet to which the client has gone or in the production unit where the shoes are manufactured.
Further characteristics of the invention will be made clearer by the detailed description that follows, referring to a purely exemplifying embodiment thereof.
According to the invention, the last is made by means of a 3D printer. The 3D printer comprises:
- a moveable bin containing a powder to be hardened,
- a container containing a hardening adhesive, and - at least one head adapted to spray said adhesive onto a layer of powder contained in the bin, according to a predefined work path, so as to solidify the layer of powder along said predefined work path.
The last production process according to the invention comprises the following steps:
1. A three-dimensional mathematical model (CAD) of the last to be produced is formulated by means of a computer with suitable software.
2. Said 3D mathematical model is sectioned mathematically with parallel planes that identify the work area in which the 3D printer head can operate. The intersection between the planes and the 3D model identifies the work path along which the printer head must spray the hardening adhesive. The planes are set at a distance from one another in a range of 0.01 mm to 0.2 mm (according to the required precision).
3. The 3D printer, by means of the bin, spreads a first layer of powder material to be solidified, filling a surface equal to the working area of the head (approximately 20 x 25 cm). Said layer of powder is of a thickness defined according to the required production precision (precisely, between 0.01 mm and 0.2 mm, that is the distance between the sectioning planes). 4. The gluing head, moving inside this working area, sprays the powder material contained in the bin of the machine with a suitably formulated adhesive along the identified work path. As a result, the whole sprayed surface, which corresponds to the flat section of the last to be produced, solidifies.
5. When this first cycle is completed, the bin is lowered by a measurement in millimetres equal to the thickness of the first layer of powder deposited (in turn a function of the precision required). The bin then spreads a second layer of powder material.
6. Steps 4 and 5 are then repeated a number of times equal to the number of planes of section on which the last to be produced has been calculated.
At the end of the procedure, the last, composed of the various layers into which it has been sectioned, is completely solidified and is immersed in unsolidified powder (which thus also serves to support said last). The excess material is removed by suction and it is possible at this point to remove the last from the 3D printer. To reduce the manufacturing costs and times, the last is advantageously formed by a shell that is hollow on the inside. However, it may also be solid.
In order to use this type of 3D printing technology to produce lasts for shoe manufacturing, the applicant has designed particular technical solutions for strengthening the external shell and the internal structure of the last thus obtained, so as to increase its resistance to the mechanical stresses of production; thanks to these solutions the last is able to withstand the typical shoe manufacturing cycle.
In particular, the technical solution that has been designed has the following characteristics: - the last is made as a "shell" in that it is hollow on the inside; this characteristic is generated automatically by the mathematical model of said last. However, the mathematical model has been so designed as to ensure a shell thickness such as to withstand the mechanical stresses typical of the shoe manufacturing. For financial reasons due to the cost of the material, a shell with the smallest possible thickness obtainable was made and then experimental tests were carried out to test the strength of the shell.
In particular, it was found that a good compromise between the strength of the shell and the cost of the material could be obtained with a shell 3 mm thick. In fact, the last samples made with a shell less than 3 mm thick broke during the industrial shoe manufacturing process.
The mathematical model has been set up so as to produce a last in two separable parts: a base half shell and a wedge-shaped upper half shell. This is done for a dual purpose: on the one hand to allow an access to the inner (hollow) part of the last and, on the other hand to allow the last to be removed from the shoe, once the manufacturing process thereof has been completed.
After the 3D printing, the hollow part inside the last is filled with a high-strength, low- cost filling material, which serves to increase the strength of the shell thus filled, making it able to withstand the mechanical stresses of manufacturing. The filling material used is preferably epoxy resin, which is able to ensure the required characteristics. However, another suitable filling material may also be used, such as silicone or polyurethane, for example.
The applicant has further developed a new formulation of the liquid adhesive material by using a liquid hardening material of the polymerisable type. This polymerisable liquid material is used by the 3D printer by the same way as the original one (sprayed though the print heads), but it has a greater capacity to bind with the powder material that is being solidified.
The powder material used in the 3D printer is generally chalk and/or talcum powder to which additives have been added to make it more easily solidifiable.
The last leaving the 3D printer is preferably sprayed with epoxy resin, which gives the final product the necessary mechanical strength and avoids an excessive fragility thereof. Alternatively, the last can be subjected to a polymerisation process (heating in an oven at adequate temperatures and for suitable times). Numerous changes and modifications of detail within the reach of a person skilled in the art can be made to the present embodiment of the invention without thereby departing from the scope of the invention as set forth by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes, characterised in that said lasts are made by means of a 3D printer.
2. A procedure according to claim 1, characterised in that said 3D printer comprises:
- a moveable bin containing a powder to be hardened,
- a container containing a hardening adhesive, and
- at least one head adapted to spray said adhesive onto a layer of powder contained in the bin, according to a predefined work path, so as to solidify the layer of powder along said predefined work path.
3. A procedure according to claim 2 comprising the following steps: a. formulating a three-dimensional mathematical model (CAD) of the last to be produced, b. sectioning the three-dimensional mathematical model with parallel planes corresponding to the working area in which the gluing head of the 3D printer operates, in order to identify said work paths of the head along which to spray the hardening adhesive, c. depositing a layer of powder in the work area of the 3D printer head, d. spraying a hardening adhesive, by means of the 3D printer head, onto the layer of powder, along the identified work path, e. moving the bin of the 3D printer to deposit a new layer of powder in the work area of the 3D printer head, f. repeating the steps (d) and (e) for the number of sections of the mathematical model.
4. A procedure according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that said mathematical model is set up to obtain a last formed by an internally hollow shell.
5. A procedure according to claim 4, characterised in that said mathematical model is set up to obtain a last comprising a lower half-shell (or base) and an upper half-shell (or wedge) which form said internally hollow shell.
6. A procedure according to claim 4 or 5, characterised in that said mathematical model is set up so that said shell of the last has a thickness of at least 3 mm, preferably 3 mm.
7. A procedure according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that, after the 3D printing, the cavity of the shell of the last is filled with a filling material.
8. A procedure according to claim 7, characterised in that said filling material comprises an epoxy resin.
9. A procedure according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that said adhesive used in the 3D printer comprises a polymerisable liquid.
10. A procedure according to claim 9, characterised in that said last leaving the 3D printer is sprayed with an epoxy resin.
11. A procedure according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that said powder used in the 3D printer comprises chalk and/or talcum with the addition of additives.
PCT/EP2008/003851 2007-06-22 2008-05-14 Production procedure for lasts for the manufacture of shoes WO2009000371A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMI2007A001260 2007-06-22
IT001260A ITMI20071260A1 (en) 2007-06-22 2007-06-22 PROCESS OF PRODUCTION OF FORMS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FOOTWEAR

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WO2009000371A1 true WO2009000371A1 (en) 2008-12-31

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CN102783769A (en) * 2012-07-20 2012-11-21 浙江工业大学 Glue coating control method at small-curvature turning part
WO2014066174A1 (en) * 2012-10-22 2014-05-01 All Star C.V. Customized shoe textures and shoe portions
CN103935034A (en) * 2014-03-10 2014-07-23 邓以翔 Treatment method for 3d printed 3d model surface
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CN106739596A (en) * 2017-01-05 2017-05-31 福建屹立智能化科技有限公司 A kind of monoblock vamp cloth 3D increases material printing process
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JP2021065684A (en) * 2019-10-18 2021-04-30 株式会社アシックス Shoe last, method for manufacturing shoe last and method for manufacturing shoe upper
US11051573B2 (en) 2017-05-31 2021-07-06 Nike, Inc. Braided articles and methods for their manufacture
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