WO2008077687A2 - Produit de traitement capillaire d'oxydation à l'extrait de litchi - Google Patents

Produit de traitement capillaire d'oxydation à l'extrait de litchi Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008077687A2
WO2008077687A2 PCT/EP2007/062565 EP2007062565W WO2008077687A2 WO 2008077687 A2 WO2008077687 A2 WO 2008077687A2 EP 2007062565 W EP2007062565 W EP 2007062565W WO 2008077687 A2 WO2008077687 A2 WO 2008077687A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
amino
group
cosmetic
hair
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PCT/EP2007/062565
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2008077687A3 (fr
Inventor
Thomas Döring
Claudia Brockmann
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority to EP07822741A priority Critical patent/EP2054027A2/fr
Publication of WO2008077687A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008077687A2/fr
Publication of WO2008077687A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008077687A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/434—Luminescent, Fluorescent; Optical brighteners; Photosensitizers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, during the oxidative hair treatment to improve the freshness of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, to improve the shine of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and to protect the destructuring keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair, by UV radiation.
  • a corresponding method for the oxidative hair treatment, as well as the agents usable therein are also the subject of the present invention.
  • Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.
  • a keratin-containing fiber coloring agent should not only provide excellent coloration as a key parameter, but should also ensure that the fibers are easy to handle after dyeing, are well cared for, protected from environmental influences, and strengthened in the fibrous structure.
  • Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product.”
  • 2-in-1 product By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products.
  • the formulation of 2-in-1 products in combination with an oxidative treatment of keratin-containing fibers is difficult for a person skilled in the art.
  • oxidative fiber treatment reactive oxidative ingredients such as hydrogen peroxide
  • Known cosmetic agents can thus decompose in combination with an oxidizing agent suitable for the oxidative fiber treatment during product storage or during use.
  • the said cosmetic product would thus not fulfill the tasks of a 2-in-1 product.
  • the permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage.
  • the convenience of the consumer tends to be overcome by the use of a 2-in-1 product for subsequent applications to conceal the above-mentioned undesirable effects.
  • the extracts of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn are suitable for use in hair care.
  • the flavone derivatives contained in the extract, and in particular the procyanidolic oligomers have a favorable effect on the protection of the substrate from UV-A and UV-B radiation and from free radicals.
  • the oxidative treatment keratin inconveniencer Fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection against environmental influences, such as UV protection are connected.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.
  • the avivage can be improved by using the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair.
  • combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.
  • a measure of combing used the combing work or the force used during the Combing process of a fiber collective.
  • the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
  • the grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.
  • Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
  • an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • the oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to link disulphide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate, such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin.
  • catalysts are, for example, metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ , Fe 3+ , Mn 2+ , Mn 4+ , Li + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ and Al 3+ .
  • Particularly suitable are Zn 2+ , Cu 2+ and Mn 2+ .
  • the metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound.
  • Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.
  • Suitable enzymes are e.g. Peroxidases that can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention, which generate with the aid of atmospheric oxygen in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors in this way.
  • Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, e.g. Pyranose oxidase and e.g. D-glucose or galactose,
  • Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts - alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH), lactate oxidase and lactic acid and its salts, tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine, uricase and uric acid or their salts, choline oxidase and choline, amino acid oxidase and amino acids.
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent.
  • the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used immediately before or during the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.
  • oxidative hair treatment As immediately before the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention, an application directly followed by the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, containing agent previously rinsed from the hair or preferably on the hair was left and the Hair is preferably still wet.
  • the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier.
  • cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers.
  • the cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alkoH 2 O, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1, 2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. ,
  • the extracts from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn used according to the invention are obtained from the pericarp (pericarp) of the plant by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents are ketones (e.g., acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols, or halogenated hydrocarbons.
  • Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols.
  • the alcohols are (Ci to Ce) - alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • the extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ° C to 90 0 C.
  • the pericarp extract of Litchi chinensis Sonn contains flavone derivatives, in particular flavanols, anthocyanins and flavonols.
  • the derivatives are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, wherein the hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton or an oxidation in the 4-position may already be present.
  • Substitution products are understood as meaning those derivatives which carry a hydroxy group or a methoxy group instead of a hydrogen atom.
  • the extract contains condensed tannins, also referred to as procyanidolic oligomers.
  • procyanidolic oligomers are oligomers which are formed in the biosynthesis by condensation of 2 to 8 monomer units of a catechin and / or epicatechin, such as procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, oligoprocyanidines, leucoanthocyanidins, leucodelphinins, leucocyanines and anthocyanogens.
  • the extract used according to the invention contains inter alia the proanthocyanidin A2, which is a dimer of the epicatechin having the following structure of the formula (I):
  • a second object of the invention are cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of
  • Preferred cosmetic carriers are those of the first subject of the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the extracted substances from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.2 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.005 to 0.02 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the cosmetic agent in the context of a color change of the hair.
  • the cosmetic agent additionally at least one color-modifying component.
  • the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences is improved.
  • the color-changing component is again preferably selected
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-amino pyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its Derivatives used.
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)
  • G 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C 4) - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (Ci -C 4) - alkoxy- (Ci to C 4) alkyl group, a 4'-aminophenyl or (Ci to C 4) - alkyl radical which is substituted with a nitrogenous group, a phenyl group or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
  • G 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C 4) - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (Ci -C 4) - alkoxy- (Ci to C 4 ) -alkyl radical or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;
  • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a (Ci to C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C 4) monohydroxyalkyl, a (C 2 to C 4 ) Polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radical, a mesylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radical or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -carbamoylaminoalkoxy radical;
  • a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom
  • a (Ci to C4) alkyl such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom
  • a (Ci to C4) alkyl such as a chlorine, bromine,
  • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical or
  • G 3 and G 4 when G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging ⁇ , ⁇ -alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.
  • Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of the formula (E1) are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine , 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine , N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N Bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylani
  • p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (ß-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ß-dihydroxyethyl) - p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine , as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:
  • - Z 1 and Z 2 are each independently a hydroxyl or NH 2 -ReSt, optionally substituted by a (Ci to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, by a (Ci to C 4 ) - hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y substituted or is optionally part of a bridging ring system
  • the bridging Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or (Ci to Cs) -Al koxyreste, or a direct bond
  • G 5 and G 6 are independently of one another for a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (Ci to C 4 ) - Alkyl radical, a (Ci to C 4 ) -
  • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 10 , G 11 and G 12 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, with the proviso that the compounds of the Formula (E2) only one bridge Y per
  • Preferred dinuclear developing agents of the formula (E2) are in particular selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) - tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N , N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) -ethylenediamine
  • Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol , Bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3) it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)
  • G 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (Ci to C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C 4) monohydroxyalkyl, a (C 2 to C 4) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a
  • G 14 is a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a
  • (Ci to C 4 ) -Monohydroxyalkylrest a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl, a (Ci to C 4 ) alkoxy (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl, a (Ci to C 4 ) -Aminoalkylrest or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radical,
  • G 15 is hydrogen, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • Monohydroxyalkyl radical a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and
  • G 16 is hydrogen or a halogen atom.
  • the substituents used in formula (E3) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.
  • Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4 -Amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino 2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2 chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • heterocyclic developer components such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E4) or their physiologically tolerated salts,
  • G 17 , G 18 and G 19 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy group or an amino group and G 20 represents a hydroxy group or a group -NG 21 G 22 , wherein G 21 and G 22 are independently a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C 4) - alkyl, (Ci to C 4) monohydroxyalkyl group, with the proviso that at most two of the groups G 17, G 18, G 19 and G 20 a hydroxy group and at most two of the radicals G 17 , G 18 and G 19 represent a hydrogen atom.
  • At least two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 represent a group -NG 21 G 22 and at most two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 represent a hydroxy group.
  • Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5 , 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E5),
  • G 23, G 24, G 25 are each independently a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C 4) alkyl group, a (Ci to C 4) monohydroxyalkyl, a (C 2 to C 4) - polyhydroxyalkyl group, an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted aryl- (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group, with the proviso that when G 25 is a hydrogen atom, G 26 may additionally be a group -NH 2 in addition to the abovementioned groups,
  • G 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to C 4) alkyl group, a (Ci to C 4) - monohydroxyalkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4) polyhydroxyalkyl group and G ⁇ 27 represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted aryl group, a (Ci to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (Ci to C 4 ) -Monohydroxyalkyl distr, in particular for a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
  • the radical -NG G binds to the 5-position and the radical G to the 3-position of the pyrazole cycle.
  • Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3 phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4 5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - ( ⁇ -hydroxyethy
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E6) and their tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:
  • G 28 , G 29 and G 30 , G 31 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) Polyhydroxyalkylrest a (Ci to C 4 ) -Alkoxy- (Ci to C 4 ) -alkylrest, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical, which may optionally be protected by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkylamino- (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a Di - [( C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a hetero
  • - i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3
  • p has the value 0 or 1
  • q has the value 0 or 1
  • n has the value 0 or 1, with the proviso that the sum of p + q is not equal to 0 is
  • n has the value 0, and the groups NG 28 G 29 and NG 30 G 31 occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
  • pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E6) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization from an aminopyrazole or from hydrazine.
  • Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( ⁇ , ⁇ -dihydroxyethyl) -p - phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N , N'-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane , 1, 3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radicals according to the invention are -OCH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 3 ,
  • a particularly preferred example of a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl group is 1, 2
  • halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred examples.
  • nitrogen-containing groups are in particular -NH 2 , (C 1 to C 4 ) -
  • Trialkylammonium groups (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkylamino groups, imidazolinium and -NH 3 + .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -monoalkylamino groups are -NHCH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 3 , -
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -dialkylamino groups are -N (CH 3 ) 2 , -N (CH 2 CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) trialkylammonium groups are -N + (CH 3 ) 3 , -N + (CH 3 ) 2 (CH 2 CH 3 ),
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino radicals are -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 -O-
  • hydroxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -O-
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 , -O-
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -carbamoylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 CN 1 -CH 2 CH 2 CN 1 -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CN.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -CH 2 CH 2 NH-
  • di [(C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino- (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -
  • aryl groups is the phenyl group.
  • aryl (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds are generally used.
  • Preferred coupler components according to the invention are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2 6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'- Hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4 Dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivative
  • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4 dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2- Methyl 1-naphthol, 2-hydroxy
  • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
  • Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, pyrimidine derivatives such as For example, 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy 6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine, or
  • Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the abovementioned compounds.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the developer components in an amount of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably contain the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvor consist at least one combination of at least one compound of the component
  • Compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present.
  • These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.
  • Component 1 is preferably selected from the group consisting of acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3, 4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-Hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethyla
  • CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected. Fall under CH-acidic compounds According to the invention, also enamines which are formed by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation to the quaternary nitrogen.
  • the CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium-p- toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3 acetic
  • Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2.5- Dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl 4-aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-
  • R 7 represents a hydroxy or an amino group which -4 hydroxyalkyl, Ci -4 alkoxy or Ci -4 alkoxy-Ci -4 alkyl groups may be substituted is by Ci -4 alkyl, Ci, .
  • R 8, R 9, R 10, R 11 and R 12 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy or an amino group represented by -C 4 alkyl, Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl, dC 4 - alkoxy, dC 4 -aminoalkyl or C 1 -C 4 -alkoxy-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups may be substituted, and
  • P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxyl groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group having the formula III
  • Q signifies a direct bond, a CH 2 or CHOH group
  • Q 'and Q are each independently an oxygen atom, an NR 13 group wherein R 13 is a hydrogen atom, a Ci -4 alkyl or hydroxy-Ci -4 kyl distr -AL-, wherein both groups together with the Residual molecule can form a 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring, means the group O- (CH 2 ) P -NH or NH- (CH 2 ) pO, wherein p and p 'are 2 or 3, and
  • O is a number from 1 to 4,
  • 4,4'-diaminostilbene and its hydrochloride 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid mono- or di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4, 4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfoxide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, 4,4 ' Diaminodiphenyl ether, 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraaminobenzophenone, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1, 8 - bis
  • Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6- Dimethoxy-3,5-diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N - (5-amino-2-pyridyl) -amine, N- [2- (4-
  • heterocyclic compounds the hydroxypyrimidines disclosed in DE-U 1-299 08 573 can be used according to the invention.
  • the aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.
  • Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, brenzkitechine, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3 Methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3-dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxy phenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3
  • the compounds of component 1 and the compounds of component 2 are preferably used in the cosmetic compositions in each case in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total Nuancierstoffs used.
  • the molar ratio of the compound of component 1 and the compound of component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably using equimolar amounts.
  • the ready-to-use agent is prepared by separate mixing of components 1 and 2 immediately prior to application.
  • oxidation dye precursor of the developer type such indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Particularly suitable precursors of natural-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxy-alkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.
  • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group
  • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
  • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
  • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 , as well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.
  • Preferred substantive dyes which are used in the cosmetic compositions as color-modifying component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1, 4 Diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- ( ⁇ -hydroxy
  • the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are
  • aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
  • the compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5) which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).
  • the cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • the cosmetic compositions contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.
  • naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and alkano root are included.
  • oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes it is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the cosmetic products, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
  • the actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing.
  • the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.
  • At least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.
  • bleach amplifiers it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid.
  • Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups.
  • polyacylated alkylenediamines in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5- Diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • TAED tetraacetylethylene
  • carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts can preferably be used according to the invention. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Especially Preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate,
  • Potassium bicarbonate dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.
  • At least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention.
  • Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents.
  • Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives.
  • R is particularly preferably -6 alkyl group is a C.
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (V) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f Butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • R in formula (V) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f Butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to use at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI),
  • each O is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents.
  • Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives.
  • R is particularly preferably -6 alkyl group is a C.
  • C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Bleach enhancers of the formula (VI) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VI) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl , te / f-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • the acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide can also be present in neutralized form, ie according to the invention it is also possible to use salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides.
  • carbonic acid monoesters or the carbonic monoamide are preferred here, which are present in completely or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its sodium salt.
  • At least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention.
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R 4 is a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or Aluminylrios or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted hydro
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VII) are selected from Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • At least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention.
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R 4 and R 5 independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or alumyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals.
  • Alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferably used compositions are characterized in that the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, te / f-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 and R 5 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.
  • Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds.
  • the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself.
  • the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions.
  • Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate,
  • ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxide phosphate) and peroxides such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide.
  • the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.
  • the bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 5-30% by weight, in particular in amounts of 8-20% by weight.
  • the cosmetic agents of the invention when acting as bleaching agents, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from Ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, metasilicates and carbamides, and alkali phosphates.
  • the cosmetic agents used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations:
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps )
  • G glycoside unit which is derived from a sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10, in particular the Laurylglucosidcarboxylat, such as is available as Plantapon ® LGC from Cognis Germany, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups. in the molecule and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • a polyol group for example, a polyalkylene glycol ether or a combination of polyol and Polyglykolether- group.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • Cio-alkyl groups essentially of C 2 - - C 4 alkyl groups and consists essentially of C 8 - to C 6 -alkyl or substantially of Ci 2
  • Particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are those in which R 1 is essentially of C 8 - To Ci 6 alkyl groups.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO H - or wear.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dime- thylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethyl- hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • ampholytic surfactants are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and to form internal Salts are capable.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C 2 -i 8 acyl sarcosine.
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which have at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element. hold.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
  • cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® - Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80.).
  • Q2-7224 manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone
  • Dow Corning 929 emulsion containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, also referred to as amodimethicones
  • SM-2059 manufactured by General Electric
  • SLM-55067 manufactured by Wacker
  • Glucquat ® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl GIu- Ceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride".
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start with the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so that substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts.
  • the use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one silicone.
  • the silicones if they are present in the agents according to the invention, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • the silicones are selected from at least one
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted onto them non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least at one of its ends;
  • Silicone contains, such as the marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone commercial product Abil B 8832 Degussa;
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1)
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • the inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain a silicone of the above formula (Si-1). These silicones are referred to as dimethicones according to the INCI nomenclature. It is in the context of the present invention as the silicone of the formula (Si-1), preferably the compounds:
  • silicones can be used according to the invention have viscosities at 20 0 C of 0.2 bbiiss 22 22 mmmm ss "" 11 a, where silicones with viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm 2 s "are particularly preferable.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, wherein
  • R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about
  • y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group is, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mer
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, - OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, -C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1.
  • Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Said Z is most preferably a - NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is O
  • Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • ⁇ takes values in the range of 0 to 2
  • b takes values in the range of 2 to 3
  • a + b is less than or equal to 3
  • c is a number in the range of 1 to 3.
  • the molar ratio of R a Q b SiO (4 - a - b) / 2 units to R c SiO (4 - c) / 2 units in the formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1: 65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • the various variable substituents in the above formula can be used for the various silicone components described in U.S. Pat the silicone blend are present, be different.
  • Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-
  • n is a monovalent radical selected from
  • each Q is a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • R represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl,
  • Ci -20- alkyl radicals preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -
  • A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from
  • Chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate Chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Cationic silicone oils such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary. Polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
  • R is -OH, (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci bis
  • R ' is -OH, a (Ci to C 20 ) alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150 is, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
  • Amodimethicone or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
  • amino-functional silicones preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
  • x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
  • the silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units.
  • these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains.
  • Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.
  • silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1.
  • this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material which reacts with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, with at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water present are.
  • the chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of an Si-OH group (e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes.
  • an Si-OH group e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane
  • an alkoxy group e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes
  • the polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure:
  • each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example, Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatic unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1.
  • n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm 2 / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm 2 / s.
  • the polysiloxanes may be branched to a low degree (for example, ⁇ 2 mol% of the siloxane units), but the polymers are substantially linear, more preferably fully linear.
  • the substituents R can in turn be substituted be, for example, with N-containing groups (for example, amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc.
  • N-containing groups for example, amino groups
  • epoxy groups for example, epoxy groups
  • S-containing groups for example, Si-containing groups
  • O-containing groups etc.
  • at least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, more preferably methyl groups.
  • the organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a chain extender.
  • the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, one polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive group, and a second polysiloxane has (at least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first.
  • the organosilicone material comprises a chain-extending agent
  • it may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a silazane.
  • a composition comprising a polysiloxane according to the general structure described above having at least one Si-OH group can be chain extended by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium-containing catalysts is reacted.
  • an alkoxysilane for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane
  • the metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction.
  • Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc.
  • a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group is reacted with an organosilicone material
  • a hydrosilylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group.
  • the polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer.
  • the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer.
  • This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).
  • a siloxane for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane
  • the polysiloxane having at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst.
  • a hydrosilylation catalyst include, for example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials.
  • the catalysts may take any known form, for example platinum or rhodium supported on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids.
  • Chloroplatinic acid either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form is a preferred catalyst because of the good dispersibility in Organosilikonsyste- men and the slight color change.
  • a polysiloxane having at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group is reacted with an organosilicone material having at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane having at least one Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups ,
  • the catalyst used is again a metal-containing catalyst.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes.
  • examples include tin octoate, dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyl tin dineodecanoate, Dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin tricosterate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dine
  • Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)
  • R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the Ci -20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CHa) 3 , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
  • the silicones are preferably water-soluble. According to preferred means of the embodiment with a silicone are characterized in that the silicone is water-soluble.
  • Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7).
  • Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
  • Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
  • radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group
  • radicals R 'and R denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms
  • x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30
  • y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10
  • a and b are integers from 0 to 50 , preferably from 10 to 30.
  • dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).
  • Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., in addition one of the following active substance combinations (i) to (xxvii):
  • Formula (Si-7) (x) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone, (xi) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one aminated silicone, (xii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-1), (xiii) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-2), (xiv) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-3), (xv) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4), (xvi) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5), (xvii) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6), (xviii) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-7), (xix) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone, (xx) at least one bleach booster and at least one aminated silicone, (xxi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula ( Si-1), (xxii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-2), (xxiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-3), (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least one Silicone of the formula (Si-4), (xxv) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5), (xxvi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone of the formula (Si-6), (xxvii) at least one Bleach booster and at least one silicone of formula (Si-7).
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one protein hydrolyzate.
  • the protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks keratin DEC ® (Vincience) Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co) distributed Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and Wheat protein.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates amino acid mixtures or individual amino acids obtained otherwise, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, histidine or pyrroglutamic acid, may also be used in their place.
  • derivatives of protein hydrolysates for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ® (Cognis), Gluadin ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or Crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolysates in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent included.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii): ( i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one
  • Protein hydrolyzate (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one
  • Wheat protein hydrolyzate (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one
  • Silk protein hydrolyzate (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one
  • Coupler component and at least one protein hydrolyzate, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one cationic and / or at least one amphoteric polymer.
  • Cationic polymers are polymers which have groups in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent
  • These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups .
  • such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium groups are bound via a Ci -4 hydrocarbon group to a synthesized from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof, polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • R 18 -H or -CH 3
  • R 18 is a methyl group - R 19
  • R 20 and R 21 are methyl groups m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable counter ions X include halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preferred are halide ions, particularly chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth- 6)), and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-Trideceth-6)) commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (III) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C- M- alkyl esters and Methacrylic acid Ci- 4 alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name cos media ® guar and Jaguar ® distributed products,
  • Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Q2-7224 commercially available products
  • Dow Corning a stabilized trimethyl silylamodimethicon
  • Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone
  • SM-2059 manufactured by General Electric
  • SLM-55067 manufactured by Wacker
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
  • Polyquaternium 2 e.g., Mirapol® A-15 from Rhodia
  • Polyquaternium 17 Polyquaternium 18 and
  • Polyquaternium 27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers.
  • Gaffix ® VC 713 manufactured by ISP:
  • the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • cationic polymers of the present invention are usually contain an amino group present at certain pH values as a quaternary ammonium group and hence cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives are preferred, such as for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially.
  • chitosans are deacetylated, in different degrees of deacetylation and varying degrees of degradation (molecular weights) are commercially available. Their preparation is, for example, in DE 44 40 625 A1 and described in DE 1 95 03 465 A1.
  • Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5 ⁇ 10 5 to 5 ⁇ 10 6 (g / mol).
  • the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. This can be done by dissolving in dilute aqueous acids.
  • Suitable acids are both mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid and organic acids, for example low molecular weight carboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Organophosphoric acids are used, provided that they have the required physiological compatibility.
  • Suitable acids for converting the chitosan into the salt form are e.g. Acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid.
  • Preferred are low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such as e.g. Glycolic acid or lactic acid.
  • amphoteric polymers is understood as meaning those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free COOH or SO 3 H in the molecule.
  • the quaternary ammonium polymers mentioned in the list are preferably used according to the invention as amphoteric polymers.
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic and their simple esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are those in British Patent Application 2 104 091, the European Patent Application 47 714, the European Offenlegungsschrift No. 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift No. 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift No. 2,817,369.
  • Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
  • R 1 -CH CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A H is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R 6 and R 7 are independently a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A "is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.
  • a cationic group of the amphoteric or cationic polymers is derived from the monomer of the formula (M1)
  • the radicals R 3 , R 4 and R 5 in the formula (M1) are preferably methyl groups
  • Z is preferably an NH group
  • A is H is preferably a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (M1).
  • A is preferably a halide ion, in particular chloride or bromide.
  • Preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (M3)
  • R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (M 3 )
  • R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • acrylic acid is used for the amphoteric polymers preferred according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (M1) or (M2) with the monomer (M3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (M2) and (M3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally comprise a monomer (M4)
  • R 10 -CH CR 11 -CNR 12 (M4) Il HO wherein R 10 and R 11 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups and R 12 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 6) alkyl group.
  • comonomer based on a comonomer are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii): ( i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic
  • Copoylmer which is essentially composed of at least one
  • Coupler component and at least one cationic polymer, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one amphoteric polymer, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and / or (M2), (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula (M1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3),
  • the effect can be further optimized by adding at least one fatty substance.
  • Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. In a preferred embodiment, the amount is 0.5-10% by weight, very particularly preferably amounts of 1-5% by weight.
  • Fatty alcohols which may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 1 0 - C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can increase the action of the active ingredient according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimer
  • fatty alcohol moieties in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the High-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18- alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2- ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate
  • Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate Cetiol ® LC
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestat, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate,
  • Neopentyl glycol, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • Mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90- ® 018, Monomuls 90-L12 ® or Cutina ® MD.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually from 6 to 45% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid ester contain.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of Ci 2 -Ci 5 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • the amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, based on the agent, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, and very particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight.
  • Preferred agents of the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier in addition to the
  • Fatty acid (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic oil body, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one fatty substance, (vii ) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one C 1 0 to C 22 fatty alcohol, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and at least one C 1 0 to C 22 fatty acid, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one natural or synthetic one
  • the agents additionally contain at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the alkalizing agents usable in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, urea, morpholine, N-methylglucamine, imidazole, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates.
  • the alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.
  • the basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine, L-histidine, D-histidine, D, L-histidine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D, L-lysine, more preferably L-arginine, D-arginine, D, L-arginine used as an alkalizing agent according to the invention.
  • the alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as the alkalizing agent according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • the alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol.
  • the alkalizing agent is particularly preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 2-aminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol, Potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, D-arginine, DL-arginine, N-methylglucamine, morpholine, imidazole and urea.
  • Preferred agents of the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier in addition to the
  • Arginine (vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and ammonia, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and at least one alkanolamine, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • Coupler component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a
  • Coupler component and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally one
  • the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter.
  • UV light protection filters are meant organic substances capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer wavelength radiation, e.g. Heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
  • Propane-1,3-diones e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Suitable water-soluble substances are:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl 3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). It is furthermore preferred to additionally incorporate at least one plant extract into the compositions according to the invention.
  • Suitable plant extracts are obtained by extraction with organic solvents (such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform) or by steam distillation.
  • organic solvents such as, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethyl ether, benzene, benzene, chloroform
  • preferred plant extracts are extracts of flowers (linden flowers, camomiles, lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (cassis, horse chestnut, rooibos, birch, melissa, clover, grape leaves, geranium, patchouli, petitgrain ), Fruits (anise, cassis, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus
  • the plant extracts are particularly preferably selected from at least one extract from the group hamamelis (Hamamelis virginiana L.), vine leaves (Vitis vinifera L.), roses (Rosa gallica L.), sandalwood (Pterocarpus Santalinus), rooibos (Aspalathus linearis), horse chestnut (Aesculus Hippocastanum L.), clover (especially red clover, Trifolium pratense), cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum nees) and cassis (especially from Cassis leaves, Ribes nigrum L.).
  • Such extracts are preferably used are marketed under the names Herbasol ® by the company Cosmetochem or Extrapone ® by the company Symrise.
  • the plant extracts are contained in the agent according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.
  • the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,
  • Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin,
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving agents, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl -2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,
  • Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors in particular those of groups A,
  • Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle,
  • Melissa, hominy, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root Melissa, hominy, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root ,.
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, and PEG-3-distearate, pigments,
  • Stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, antioxidants.
  • a third subject of the invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair in a cosmetic carrier and is rinsed from the hair after an exposure time, wherein immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent a cosmetic Agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Plotted and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time and / or the oxidative cosmetic product additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.
  • the exposure time of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably 1 to 100 minutes, more preferably 5 to 50 minutes. Again, it is preferred according to the invention to use the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferable to apply the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.
  • the extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Shortly before use, both components are mixed together.
  • the extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleaching booster in one step in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, and optionally at least one bleach booster.
  • the bleach booster can also be separated from the extract of Pericarps from Litchi chinensis Sonn, be formulated, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained.
  • the last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.
  • the multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit.
  • the packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing, in a cosmetic carrier, an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., and optionally a third container containing at least one bleaching booster embedded in a cosmetic carrier. All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container.
  • Eumulgin ® B2 Cetylstearylalkohol with about 20 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis Germany)
  • Laurylmyristylethersulfat sodium salt (ca. 68% to 73% active substance content '; INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (Cognis)
  • Disponil ® FES 77 IS fatty alcohol ether sulfate (about 31-33% active ingredient content in
  • Gluadin ® W 40 wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 40% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben) (Cognis)
  • Amphoterge K 2 ® disodium N- [2- (carboxylatomethoxy) ethyl] -N- glycinate [2 - amino] ethyl - [(1 oxododecyl)]; 40% by weight of active substance content (INCI name: Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate (manufacturer: Lonza)
  • Plantapon ® LGC approximately 28-34% active substance content in water; INCI name: Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Lauryl Glucoside (Cognis) Merquat ® 280 dimethyldiallylammonium acrylic acid copolymer (about 35 active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-22) (Ondeo-Nalco)
  • Dehyton ® CN N-dimethyl-N- (C8-18-cocamidopropyl) ammoniumaceto- betaine (30% active substance; INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cocamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)
  • the cream formulations T-O or DO (without extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn.) And T-1 or D1 (with 1, 0% extract according to the invention) were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the oxidative cosmetic T-2.
  • This mixture was applied to hair strands (Kerling Euro natural hair 6/0) at a weight ratio of 4 to 1 for 30 minutes at 32 ° C.
  • the hair tresses were then rinsed with an aqueous solution of 3.8% by weight sodium laureth sulfate (pH 5) for 3 minutes and dried. The process was repeated 3 times.
  • a sample of the untreated hair and a sample of the hair strands treated according to 1.2 were incubated with the fluorescent marker dansyl chloride to quantify the degree of damage according to the instructions of Sandhu and Robbins and the degree of damage was determined by fluorescence measurements (see: "A sensitive fluorescence technique using dansyl chloride to assess hair damage ": Sandhu, Robbins, J. Soc., Cosmet., Chem., 40, 287-296).
  • the quantities are, unless otherwise indicated, wt .-% based on the total weight of the respective recipe.
  • Bleaching agents B1, B2 and B3 each consist of a bleaching cream and an associated developer, and a bleach booster.
  • 50 g of the bleaching agent were added to 50 g of the corresponding bleaching cream. With stirring, 20 g of the corresponding developer was added. When applied to hair and exposed for 30 minutes, excellent rinsing was observed after rinsing and drying.
  • a ready-to-use colorant 50 g of a tinting cream of Table 2.2.1 were mixed with stirring with 50 g of a developer according to Table 2.2.2. From each staining cream, three different mixtures were prepared with the help of one of the three developers according to Table 2.2.2. It resulted from each dyeing cream 3 different application mixtures, which differed only in the content of hydrogen peroxide. When applied to the hair of the head and with a contact time of 30 minutes, after rinsing and drying with each application mixture, an excellent dyeing result or for F6 brightening result was achieved. 2.2.1 Dyeing creams

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Abstract

Un extrait du péricarpe du Litchi chinensis Sonn. est parfaitement adapté dans le cadre d'un traitement capillaire d'oxydation destiné à améliorer la brillance des cheveux, à améliorer leur texture, à améliorer la tenue d'une coloration et à protéger les cheveux contre le rayonnement ultraviolet. Selon un procédé de traitement capillaire d'oxydation qui consiste à appliquer sur les cheveux un produit cosmétique à effet oxydant contenant au moins un oxydant dans un excipient cosmétique et à rincer les cheveux après un certain temps d'action, un produit capillaire contenant un extrait du péricarpe du Litchi chinensis Sonn. dans un excipient cosmétique est appliqué juste avant l'application du produit capillaire à effet oxydant et éventuellement rincé après un certain temps d'action et/ou le produit cosmétique à effet oxydant contient en outre un extrait du péricarpe du Litchi chinensis Sonn. La mise en oeuvre dudit procédé permet d'atteindre avec succès les objectifs susmentionnés sans nuire à l'effet oxydant du produit.
PCT/EP2007/062565 2006-12-21 2007-11-20 Produit de traitement capillaire d'oxydation à l'extrait de litchi WO2008077687A2 (fr)

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EP07822741A EP2054027A2 (fr) 2006-12-21 2007-11-20 Produit de traitement capillaire d'oxydation à l'extrait de litchi

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DE102006061828A DE102006061828A1 (de) 2006-12-21 2006-12-21 Oxidative Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Litchi Extrakt
DE102006061828.9 2006-12-21

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Cited By (1)

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WO2009062804A1 (fr) * 2007-11-14 2009-05-22 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de traitement capillaire avec extrait de litchi et taurine

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102007034482A1 (de) * 2007-07-20 2009-01-22 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Oxidative Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Litchi-Extrakt und Catechinen
FR3013590B1 (fr) * 2013-11-22 2016-07-01 Berdoues Parfums Et Cosmetiques Composition de decoloration de poils humains, procede et kit de decoloration

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JP2519024B2 (ja) * 1982-06-07 1996-07-31 花王株式会社 毛髪化粧料
DE4444238A1 (de) * 1994-12-13 1996-06-20 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Zimtsäurederivaten und Flavonglycosiden
JP3562668B2 (ja) * 1995-07-31 2004-09-08 高砂香料工業株式会社 消臭剤組成物
US6099591A (en) * 1998-01-29 2000-08-08 Aveda Corporation Method and composition for hair coloring using green tea polyphenols
EP1247527A1 (fr) * 2001-04-03 2002-10-09 Cognis France S.A. Préparations cosmétiques et/ou pharmaceutiques contenant des extraits de la plante Litchi chinensis Sonn
FR2832059B1 (fr) * 2001-11-14 2004-05-21 Oreal Utilisation d'un extrait de myrsine africana en coloration d'oxydation pour la teinture des fibres keratiniques
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009062804A1 (fr) * 2007-11-14 2009-05-22 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit de traitement capillaire avec extrait de litchi et taurine

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WO2008077687A3 (fr) 2008-10-16
DE102006061828A1 (de) 2008-06-26
EP2054027A2 (fr) 2009-05-06
RU2009127617A (ru) 2011-01-27

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