WO2008048004A1

WO2008048004A1 - Cosmetic composition of volume mascara

Info

Publication number: WO2008048004A1
Application number: PCT/KR2007/004477
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sun Kyung Choi; Jeong Han Choo; Soonhui Jang; Jimin Cheon
Original assignee: Amorepacific Corporation
Priority date: 2006-10-19
Filing date: 2007-09-17
Publication date: 2008-04-24
Also published as: CN101528193A; CN101528193B; KR20080035247A

Abstract

Disclosed is an emulsion-type mascara composition, which adds volume to the eyelashes. More specifically, disclosed is a cosmetic composition containing an acrylic thickening polymer in an amount of 0.05-10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, in which the acrylic thickening polymer has an adhesion of 10-100 g in a water base, obtained by adding it to water at a concentration of 0.5-3 wt%. Because the disclosed composition contains the acrylic thickening polymer instead of a cellulose-based thickener, which is widely used in prior mascara formulations, the content thereof is easily transferred to the eyelashes.

Description

[DESCRIPTION]

[invention Title]

Cosmetic composition of Volume Mascara [Technical Field] The present invention relates to an emulsion-type mascara composition, which adds volume to the eyelashes, and more particularly to a mascara composition, the viscosity of which is increased through the gelatinizing action of water and a thickener in the composition, thus showing an excellent function of adding volume to the eyelashes . [Background Art]

Mascara is applied on the eyelashes, such that it lifts the eyelashes to accentuate the eyes. Methods for accentuating the eyes include a method in which eyelashes are applied on an eyelash-by-eyelash basis, and a method in which mascara is sufficiently transferred around an eyelash to add volume to the eyelash. Also, there are a method in which the eyelashes are curled from the root to visually lengthen the lashes, such that the eyes look large, and a method in which a long fiber is used to actually lengthen eyes, such that the eyes look large. Thus, mascara has three main functions of adding volume to the eyelashes, curling the eyelashes and lengthening the eyelashes, and in addition, there is a method of darkening the eyelashes, such that the eyes look deep. Such methods all aim to accentuate the eyes .

Early mascara was in a solid form consisting of a mixture of magnesium stearate and carbon black and was applied using a brush wetted with water. However, as time went on, a mascara product, which would be used more conveniently, has been required, and thus a mascara product, having a brush contained in a case, was developed. In addition, emulsion-type mascara, which solves a problem of a hard texture occurring in the prior solid mascara, was developed. The emulsion-type mascara is prepared by mixing vegetable ester wax or hydrocarbon wax with a polymer having suitable plasticity and high safety. The emulsion- type mascaras can be broadly classified into an oil-in- water (O/W) type and a water-in-oil (W/0) or water-in- silicone emulsion (W/S) , having high durability in water. Also, mascara preparations, which are currently developed, are also developed as a water dispersion type or an oil dispersion type rather than the emulsion type in order to increase pearl feel. For example, such preparations are used either as top coats for increasing the durability of the eyelashes in oil or water or as decorative mascaras for giving twinkling to the eyelashes through gay pearl feel. Thus, the formulation and function of mascaras have been subdivided and diversified.

The present invention relates to a mascara content, which has an enhanced volume function, among the above- described three functions (i.e., volume, curling and lash lengthening) , and is in the form of an oil-in-water (O/W) formulation, which is easily transferred to the eyelashes so as to thicken the eyelashes, thus accentuating the eyes.

Thickeners, which were generally used in the prior mascara preparations, are cellulose-based thickeners, particularly hydroxyethylcellulose. The advantage thereof is that they can make a clean surface, because they have a smooth surface. However, the cellulose-based thickeners do not greatly assist in adding volume to the eyelashes, because they remain on a brush without being applied to the eyelashes upon the application of mascara due to their smooth sensory texture.

The prior art which can be compared with the present invention may include Korean Patent Application No. 2003- 0062066 (filed on 5 September, 2003 and entitled "Cosmetic composition containing viscous wax"), which relates to an emulsion-type mascara composition having a volume function of giving volume to the eyelashes, the composition containing 27 wt% of a first wax, having a viscosity of more than 0.7 N- s and a hardness of less than 3.5 Mpa, and dextrin ester of fatty acid(s) and/or fillers having a BET specific surface area of more than 10 nf/g-

In said Korean Patent Application, wax and filler are used to give volume to the eyelashes. If wax is used in a large amount in a mascara composition, it can give volume to the eyelashes, as disclosed in said patent application, but it can be recrystallized in the mascara formulation to form an uneven surface, and in addition, as time goes on, it can increase the hardness of the mascara content, thus impeding the initial sensory texture. Also, the mascara content can become hard depending on the kind of wax, thus impeding initial sensory feel. Moreover, if a filler having a BET specific surface area is used in a mascara composition, it can greatly increase initial viscosity due to its high oil content, and as time goes on, it can increase viscosity so as to make the mascara content hard. [Disclosure] [Technical Problem]

Accordingly, in order to solve the hard texture problem occurring in the invention of said patent application, the present inventors have conducted studies on a mascara composition, the content of which can be easily applied using a thickening polymer. As a result, the present inventors have developed a mascara composition, which contains a thickening polymer having excellent adhesion, without adjustment of wax or filler, such that it thickens the eyelashes and is easily transferred to the eyelashes to add volume to the eyelashes, thereby completing the present invention. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a mascara composition containing a content, which enhances the volume function of the mascara composition and has a sticky texture so as to prevent powder from dropping. [Technical Solution]

To achieve the above object, the present invention provides a mascara composition, containing an acrylic thickening polymer, which shows an adhesion of 10-100 g in a water base, obtained by adding it to water at a concentration of 0.5-3 wt%.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

Polymer compounds, which are used as raw material for producing cosmetic products, can be broadly divided, according to the intended use thereof, into thickeners, film-forming coatings and resin powders. Also, they are partially used as moisturizers and surfactants. Particularly, in mascara preparations, they are mainly used as thickeners for increasing viscosity and as film-forming agents having high resistance to sebum. As polymers for increasing viscosity, water-soluble polymers are mainly used and are divided, according to the origin, into natural polymers, semi-synthetic polymers (obtained by introducing functional groups to natural polymers through synthetic reaction) and synthetic polymers. Because such thickeners greatly influence the sensory feel of products during use, they influence the sensory feel of mascara content. Also, they can change the stickiness of mascara content, thus changing the amount of application of the mascara content. The natural polymers include polysaccharides, such as gums, dextrin and starches, and proteins, such as gelatin and albumin. Meanwhile, as the semi-synthetic polymers, cellulose-based compounds, such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, are most frequently used. In addition, the semi-synthetic polymers include those prepared using natural starches, for example, methyl starch, carboxymethyl starch and soluble starch. As the synthetic polymers, vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylmethylether and sodium polyacrylate, are used. Also, as inorganic thickeners, bentonite, laponite and non-dispersed silicon and the like are used.

A thickening polymer, which is used in the present invention, is a synthetic polymer, which is classified as an acrylic polymer according to the fundamental chain thereof. The acrylic polymer is a polymer derived from a fundamental form of acrylic acid H₂C=CH-COOH, and in the present invention, it may be one or more selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic acid, polyalkyl acrylate, polyalkyl acrylic acid, hydroxyalkyl acrylate, hydroxyalkyl acrylic acid, aminoacrylic acid, amino acrylate, aminoalkyl acrylate, polyacrylate, acrylonitrile, aryl acrylate, and mixtures and combinations thereof . In Examples of the present invention, as the acrylic polymers, polyacrylate

13/polyisobutene/polysorbate (Sepiplus 400, SEPPIC) and an acrylate/ ClO-30 alkyl acrylate cross-copolymer

(CarbopolETD2020, Noveon) were used, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. In the cosmetic field, acrylic polymers are widely used for moisturization, because they have excellent water retention ability so as to serve as thickeners. Also, many oil-in-emulsion-type acrylic polymers are used as film agents due to their good water resistance. The composition according to the present invention contains an acrylic thickening polymer as a thickener and has an excellent function of adding volume to the eyelashes, because the adhesion of the composition is increased through the gelatinizing action of the thickener and water in the composition. The acrylic thickening polymer preferably has an adhesion of 10-100 g in a water base, obtained by adding it to water in an amount of 0.5-3 wt%, and preferably 2 wt%, based on the weight of the water base. If an acrylic thickening polymer having an adhesion of less than 10 g is used, it cannot give a sufficiently sticky texture, and if an acrylic thickening polymer having an adhesion of more than 100 g is used, it makes the mascara content excessively hard, thus impeding the soft texture, and is difficult to stir, making it difficult to make a smooth surface .

Also, the acrylic thickening polymer is preferably contained in an amount of 0.05-10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the mascara composition according to the present invention further contains polyisobutene in an amount of 0.5-10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. Polyisobutene having high stickiness, together with the acrylic thickening polymer, imparts a sticky texture to the mascara content, such that the amount of mascara transferred to the eyelashes is increased. If polyisobutene is used in an amount of less than 0.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition, it will be difficult to expect an increase in the amount of application of the mascara, and if it is used in an amount of more than 10 wt%, the content of the mascara will be excessively sticky, thus impeding the soft texture of the mascara. [Advantageous Effects]

As described above, in comparison with the prior volume mascara containing the cellulose-based thickener, the inventive mascara composition containing the acrylic thickener easily adheres to the eyelashes, because the content thereof is sticky. Thus, the amount of powder, which drops onto the eyelashes with the passage of time, is reduced, and the content of the mascara composition is easily transferred to the eyelashes, when the mascara composition is applied to the eyelash, thus increasing the volume of the eyelashes. [Mode for Invention]

Hereinafter, mascara contents, prepared using each of hydroxyethyl cellulose (cellulose-based semi-synthetic polymer) , inorganic thickeners (hectorite and laponite) , and an acrylic thickening polymer, will be comparatively explained. It is to be understood, however, that the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples. Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3 Mascaras having the compositions shown in Table 1 below were prepared. For comparison, the prior mascara composition (Comparative Example 1) was used, and mascaras were prepared using inorganic thickeners in the following composition ratios and used as Comparative Examples 2 and 3. In Example 1, Sepiplus 400 (SEPPIC) was used as the acrylic thickening polymer, and in Example 2, CarbopolETD2020 (Noveon) as a polyacrylic acid copolymer was used as the acrylic thickening polymer. In Examples of the present invention, a water base containing 2 wt% of each of the thickening polymers was measured for adhesion using a rheometer. For this purpose, the water base containing 2 wt% of each thickening polymer was prepared by heating 98 wt% of water to 70 ^°C , adding each of the polymers thereto, stirring the solution in the AGI-mixer, cooling the stirred solution, and then maintaining the solution at room temperature. However, the polyacylic acid copolymer was used in an amount of 1 wt% to prepare the water base due to its low solubility. The adhesion of the thickening polymer in the water base containing 2 wt% of the thickening polymer (1 wt% for the polyacylic acid copolymer) was measured at 20 ^°C using a rheometer (CR-300, Sun Scientific Co.), equipped with a cylindrical Teflon rotor having a diameter of 1 cm and a height of 4 cm. The rotor of the device was allowed to penetrate into the thickened solution to a depth of 20 mm in a speed of 20 mm/min, and then withdrawn at the same speed, thus measuring the maximum elongation force (g) . An increase in this elongation force value shows an increase in the force required for detaching the polymer base from objects. The measurement results are shown in Table 1 below. [Table l]

As can be seen in Table 1 above, the maximum elongation forces of the polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate and the acrylate/ClO-30 alkylacrylate cross-copolymer were higher than those of the other thickening polymers. Also, with respect to the shape of each thickener stained on the rotor after the experiment, cellulose remained long on the rotor, hectorite and laponite were stained on the rotor in small amounts, and the polyacrylate 13/polyisobutene/polysorbate and the acrylate/ClO-30 alkylacrylate cross-copolymer were adhered closely to the rotor in amounts larger than those of hectorite and laponite.

In order to examine the effect of each thickening polymer on the mascara formulation, each thickening polymer was used in an amount of 0.3 wt% in Examples of the present invention. However, the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and the thickening polymer is preferably used in an amount of 0.05-10 wt% in order to sufficiently exhibit the effect thereof. Table 2 below shows the composition of a mascara content containing each thickening polymer. [Table 2]

For the preparation of the mascara compositions, the components 1-10 shown in Table 2 above were mixed, heated and dissolved (mixture "a"), and the components 11-19 were stirred with mixing and heating (mixture "b" ) . The component 20 was added to the mixture "a", and the components 11-19 (mixture "b" ) was added slowly thereto with mixing and stirring (mixture "c") . The mixture "b" was slowly added to the mixture "c" to form an emulsion, and the component 21 was added thereto, followed by cooling. Test Example 1

Each of the mascara compositions, prepared in Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3 and Examples 1 and 2, was applied 12 times on artificial eyelashes, and then an increase in the weight for each application time was measured. The measurements were averaged and shown in Table 3 below. Also, each of the mascara compositions was used on 30 women of the 20-40-year old age group in order to measure the effect thereof. Each mascara composition was tested for volume, lash lengthening, thickness and application ability. Each of the test items was evaluated, and then was rated on a scale of 0-15, and an average score for 30 persons was calculated. Each test was repeated 5 times, and the test results are summarized in Table 3 below. In Table 3, "x" indicates an average score of less than 3, "Δ" represents an average score of 4.0-8.0, "o" represents an average score of 8.1-12.0, and "®" represents an average of more than 12.0. [Table 3]

As can be seen in Table 3 above, in the cases of Comparative Examples, in which the prior cellulose-based thickener or the inorganic thickener was used, the application ability was not inferior, but the thickness and the volume were low. However, the mascara compositions of

Examples 1 and 2, containing the acrylic thickening polymer, was satisfactory not only in volume and thickness, but also in lash lengthening and application ability. This suggests that, when the acrylic thickening polymer is used in mascara, a composition, having the functions of adding volume to the eyelashes and lengthening the eyelashes, can be obtained.

Test Example 2

The adhesion durability of mascara, prepared using each of the compositions of Comparative Examples 1, 2 and 3 and Examples 1 and 2, was tested.

(Adhesion durability test method)

1. The compositions was applied on glass plates using an applicator to the same thickness, and then completely dried.

2. A lattice pattern was formed on the glass plates using a cross cutter.

3. The contents were peeled from the glass plates using tapes at the same force. The test was repeated three times for each composition, and the test results are summarized in Table 4 below.

In Table 4, "x" indicates the peeling of more than 50% of the total area by the tape, "Δ" indicates the peeling of 30-50% of the total area, "o" indicates the peeling of 10-30% of the total area, and "©" indicates the peeling of less than 10% of the total area. [Table 4]

As can be seen in Table 4 above, the adhesion durability of Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention was excellent compared to that of Comparative Example 1 (prior mascara product) . Comparative Examples 2 and 3 showed high adhesion durability compared to that of Comparative Example

1, and this is believed that the inorganic thickening agents, hectorite and laponite, used in Comparative

Examples 2 and 3, were not lengthened, unlike the cellulose-based thickener, and thus easily adhered to the eyelashes, compared to the cellulose-based thickener.

Also, polybutene is used to increase adhesion upon the application of mascaras and lipsticks. Polyisobutene, used in Examples of the present invention, was Permethyl- 106A (Preperse) .

Examples 3 and 4

Mascaras having the compositions shown in Table 5 below were prepared. Polybutene or polyisobutene, which are used to increase adhesion of mascara and lipsticks, was added to the composition of Example 1 to prepare compositions of Examples 3 and 4. The polybutene used in Example 3 was a product purchased from Nippon Petrochemcals, and polyisobutene used in Example 4 was Permethyl-106A (Preperse) . [Table 5]

In the preparation of the mascara compositions, the components 1-12 shown in Table 5 above were mixed, heated and dissolved (mixture "a"), and the components 13-17 were stirred with mixing and heating (mixture "b" ) . The component 18 was added to the mixture "a" , and the components 13-17 (mixture "b" ) was added slowly thereto with mixing and stirring (mixture "c"). The mixture "b" was slowly added to the mixture "c" to form an emulsion, and the component 19 was added thereto, followed by cooling.

Test Example 3

Each of the mascara compositions, prepared in Examples 3, 4 and 1 of the present invention, was applied 12 times on artificial eyelashes, and then an increase in the weight was measured. The measurements were averaged and shown in Table 6 below. [Table β]

As can be seen in Table 6 above, when polybutene consisting only of straight chains was added, the amount of mascara applied was not increased, but when polyisobutene having side chains was added, the amount of application of the mascara content containing the acrylic thickening polymer could be increased. This is believed to be because, in the case of polyisobutene, the oily compositions were connected by the side chains in a bulky manner to thicken the inner phase, and the thickened inner phase made the entire water-in-oil formulation sticky, [industrial Applicability]

As described above, the mascara composition according to the present invention contains the acrylic thickening polymer as a thickener. Thus, when it is applied on the eyelashes, it is not slippery and easily adheres to the eyelashes, such that powder dropping with the passage of time does not occur. Also, the content of the composition is easily transferred to the eyelashes, thus increasing the volume of the eyelashes .

Claims

[CLAIMS] [Claim l]

A mascara composition, containing a cosmetically acceptable acrylic thickening polymer. [Claim 2]

The mascara composition of Claim 1, wherein the acrylic thickening polymer is one or more selected from the group consisting of polyacrylic acid, polyalkyl acrylate, polyalkyl acrylic acid, hydroxyalkyl acrylate, hydroxyalkyl acrylic acid, aminoacrylic acid, amino acrylate, aminoalkyl acrylate, polyacrylate, acrylonitrile, aryl acrylate, and mixtures and combinations thereof . [Claim 3]

The mascara composition of Claim 1, wherein the acrylic thickening polymer has an adhesion of 10-100 g, when it is added to water at a concentration of 0.5-3 wt%. [Claim 4]

The mascara composition of Claim 1, wherein the acrylic thickening polymer is contained in an amount of 0.05-10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. [Claim 5]

The mascara composition of Claim 1, further containing 0.5-10 wt% of polyisobutene.