WO2007148351A1

WO2007148351A1 - Jewel wearable according to two different stable configurations and manufacturing method thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2007148351A1
Application number: PCT/IT2006/000468
Authority: WO
Inventors: Pietro Rancan
Original assignee: Rancangelo Di Rancan Dario E Pietro S.N.C.
Priority date: 2006-06-20
Filing date: 2006-06-20
Publication date: 2007-12-27

Abstract

A jewel (100) comprises an elongated hollow coating (2), an inner core (1), of substantially flat shape, extending internally to the coating (2) between opposite vertexes (21, 22) thereof and having a clearance sufficient to allow the sliding of the core (1) into the coating (2), and is characterized in that said inner core (1) develops substantially according to an arc of a circle (C), said arc being subtended by an angle (α) of extension smaller than 360°, in a manner such as to define two distinct ends (11, 12) of said inner core (I), said ends (11, 12) being connectible therebetween, so that, in a connected configuration, the inner core (1) together with the coating (2) may arrange itself according to two different positions, in which the inner core (1) has respective slant angles (δ, δ') with respect to a plane of development of said arc.

Description

JEWEL WEARABLE ACCORDING TO TWO DIFFERENT STABLE CONFIGURATIONS AND MANUFACTURING METHOD THEREOF

DESCRIPTION

The present invention refers to a jewel wearable according to two different stable configurations and to the manufacturing method thereof.

In the jewel making field, a plurality of necklaces having different shape and structure are known.

One of the problems more felt is that of manufacturing products with individual features, such as to draw customers, concomitantly preserving a certain manufacturing simplicity and without requiring excessive manufacturing costs.

Hence, since long time there has become widespread the use of two-sided jewels, having two sides with different aesthetic features and that may be alternatively worn on, according to one side or the other.

This type of feature is particularly susceptible of being employed in jewels manufactured from elongated elements, having an at least partially squashed section, forming necklaces, bracelets, various jewels, etc.

In fact, such a section allows to define the two sides, with different aesthetic features, that could be alternatively worn on. However, in jewels manufactured according to the known art there cannot be achieved a perfect wearability of the product; in other words, the sides cannot be kept adhering to a user's body, if not by employing manufacturing methods that weaken the jewel or limit its aesthetic value.

In general, in known-art jewel manufacturing methods it is not always possible to concomitantly obtain high wearability, softness and high aesthetic qualities.

By way of example, among the known methods for manufacturing two-sided jewels there is that described in Pat. Appl. WO 04 080227, in which a flat-shaped core is crimped to the inner edges of an elongated hollow body having sides of different color or surface machining. ,

Alternatively, Pat. Appl., RM 2003 A 000082 describes a jewel made of materials with good elastic features, which is moulded according to a frustoconical shape, so as to ensure the option of being worn on according to two different slants, each of which allows to show a different side thereof.

Hence, the technical problem underlying the present invention is to provide a jewel wearable according to two different sides, overcoming the drawbacks hereto mentioned with reference to the known art. Such a problem is solved by a jewel according to claim 1 and by the manufacturing method thereof according to claim 14. The present invention provides several relevant advantages. The main advantage lies in that it allows a perfect wearability according to two different stable configurations, in no way limiting jewel manufacturing options, nor requiring complex manufacturing processes. Moreover, an additional advantage lies in that the jewel according to the present invention provides a feeling of elevated softness and flexibility to the user, though exhibiting optimal features of mechanical resistance.

Other advantages, features, and the modes of employ of the present invention will be made apparent in the following detailed description of some embodiments thereof, given by way of a non-limiting example. Reference will be made to the figures of the attached drawings, wherein:

- figure 1 shows a plan view of an inner core of a jewel manufactured according to the present invention;

- figure 2 is a perspective view illustrating the inner core of figure 1 partially inserted into a respective coating;

- figures 3A and 3B are a plan view and a cross section, respectively, of the jewel according to the present invention, arranged according to an open configuration;

- figures 4A to 4D are a plan view, a perspective view, a cross section and a detail view of the latter, respectively, of the jewel of figure 3 arranged according to a first operative configuration;

- figures 5A to 5C are a perspective view, a cross section and a detail view thereof, respectively, of the jewel of figure 3 arranged according to a different operative configuration; and - figures 6 A to 6G schematically illustrate the manufacturing method of a jewel according to the present invention.

Initially referring to figure 3A, a jewel according to the present invention, generally denoted by 100, comprises an inner core 1 apt to be arranged into an elongated hollow coating 2, the latter shown in figure 2. The inner core 1 has a substantially flat cross section, illustrated in figure IA, it being made, according to a preferred embodiment, from a flat strip. The flat strip, though being smooth in figure, could have optional openings reducing its overall weight, as long as they do not excessively limit its mechanical resistance, above all to torsion and elongation. The shape of the core 1 may also differ from the flat one; however, the shape should anyhow be such as to allow the former to be inserted into the coating with a minimal clearance. The features of the inner core I₅ both mechanical and concerning the material employed, will anyhow be further detailed hereinafter, entailing specific relevance in the overall operation of the jewel.

Referring now to figure 1, the inner core 1 develops according to a substantially circular shape, essentially following the development of the circle C.

However, the inner core 1 extends not for the overall length of the circle C, but for an arc thereof, whose extension is defined by an angle α, of extension smaller than 360°, subtending said arc. Thus, onto the inner core 1 there remain defined two opposite longitudinal ends, denoted by 11 and 12, respectively, which substantially side each other and, in the configuration illustrated in figure 1, appear separate therebetween. Hence, referring to figure 2, the elongated hollow coating preferably has a substantially elliptical cross section, it also having a substantially flattened shape. Thus, there can be defined two opposite vertexes, denoted by 21 and 22, respectively, defining the direction of maximum extension of the cross section of the coating 2. In the present embodiment, the vertexes 21 and 22 coincide with the opposite ends of the major axis of the ellipse.

Moreover, it should be noted that the coating 2 forms the outer portion of the jewel 100, thereby being visible during use and, accordingly, it will preferably be manufactured of precious material or have surface machining such as to let its aesthetic features be appreciated.

Lastly, the substantially flattened shape of the coating allows also to define two opposite sides, denoted by 23 and 24, respectively, which could have different surface features, with regard to both the color and the machining, iii a manner such that the jewel, thanks to the features illustrated hereinafter, may be worn on alternatively according to one side or the other one.

In any case, evidently the coating could also have different shapes, e.g. rhombus-like, asymmetrical or also irregular, as long as it has anyhow at least a pair of distinct sides and two vertexes between which the inner core may extend. Referring to figures 2 and 3B, the inner core 1 has a transversal extension such as to extend essentially between the vertexes 21 and 22 of the coating, having however a clearance sufficient to allow the sliding of the core 1 into the coating 2. This feature allows, besides from the option of easily inserting the inner core 1 into the coating 2, to provide support to the latter and, above all, to limit its torsion about the longitudinal development axis.

In fact, it should be understood that the coating, being usually made of precious material and, preferably, by means of a wound foil, in the manner that will be illustrated hereinafter, does not exhibit mechanical resistance features such as to be worn on, when coupled to the inner core 1 providing support to the entire jewel structure.

However, to ensure sufficient softness to the jewel, the inner core has that clearance with respect to the coating that allows a minimal motion to the latter, yet avoiding the occurrence of plastic deformations that would irreparably ruin the j ewel . Therefore, the inner core extends to near the vertexes 21 and 22, so that an excessive torsion of the coating is prevented by the presence of the core that has, in particular, higher mechanical features with respect to the coating. In fact, beyond a certain angle of torsion, depending on the actual clearance, the core will come into contact with the inner walls of the coating, thereby preventing a further torsion thereof. Hence, referring to figure 3A, the coating covers, always according to a preferred embodiment, the entire length of the core; therefore, once the latter is inserted, the former will have it also shape of arc of circle, subtending a <360° angle, and extending it also along the circle C.

It should also be noted that the coating 2, being made of precious metals, which therefore do not exhibit high mechanical features, does not have per se a stable shape, and it will be sufficiently flexible to allow the insertion of the core 1 thereinto, core which will keep also the coating arranged according to the development of the circle C.

The jewel is also provided with a closure element 3, secured at the ends 11 and 12, which has the task of blocking the coating and the inner core, and of connecting said ends, thereby closing the jewel. For this reason, the configuration illustrated in figure 3A, in which the ends are separated therebetween, will hereinafter be referred to as first unfastened resting configuration. It should be noted that in such a configuration the two longitudinal ends 11, 12 of the inner core 1 are separate and distinct.

Therefore, referring to figure 4 A, by connecting the closure elements 3 the jewel is brought into a different configuration, which hereinafter will be referred to as fastened configuration, in which it may not follow circle C anymore, the inner core' being not sufficiently extensible in a longitudinal direction.

In such a configuration the core 1 is elastically deformed so that the ends 11, 12 are brought side by side the one to the other, so as to be connected or anyhow connectible. In fact, the inner core 1 has a cross section and a mechanical resistance such as to avoid that, in the operative configuration, the jewel deforms following a substantially elliptical configuration. On the contrary, the inner core, along with the coating that, as already mentioned, is sufficiently flexible, shifts into a different configuration, in which the core arranges itself substantially along a frustoconical surface, according to the development of the circle C, of diameter smaller than the circle C, and slant with respect to the plane of development of the circle C, coincident with that of development of the jewel in an open configuration.

In particular, referring to figures 4A-4C and 5A-5C, the jewel could equally arrange itself according to two different stable operative positions, symmetrical therebetween; a first one in which the core is slant by an angle δ with respect to said plane, and a second one slant by an angle δ' .

Said positions may be selected by suitably driving the jewel during the closure of the elements 3, inviting the core to rotate in a sense or in the opposite one. Therefore, it should be noted that the substantially frustoconical shape allows the jewel to be worn on so that one of the sides 23 and 24, according to the configuration used, be perfectly adherent to the user's body, since, e.g. in the use of necklaces, the jewel should have a frustoconical shape in order to adjust to neck shapes. Always by way of example, in the first operative configuration, depicted in figures 4B to 4D, the jewel has a slant according to an angle δ allowing the side 24 to perfectly lie onto the body and the side 23 to remain perfectly displayed. The second configuration, illustrated in figures 5 A to 5 C, which may be attained from the preceding one simply by opening and closing again the jewel, or by elastically forcing it, with a flexing motion, allows instead to display the side 24, the opposite side 23 being on the body. In order to obtain said frustoconical shape, the inner core 1 is, as mentioned hereto, pre-formed following the development of the circle C, and made of a material sufficiently resistant to provide support to the coating and give it also an arc-like shape in the open position, and sufficiently elastic to allow the connection of the ends 11 and 12 substantially without any plastic deformation of the material. The employ of a material with such elasticity features makes, at connected ends, viable the two different stable balance positions in which the core has a frustoconical operative configuration.

Upon opening the jewel, the inner core, together with the coating, could return in the initial position, according to which it develops along the arc of the circle C. Always due to the features of the material, the step of opening and closing the jewel, with the entailed slant of the inner core, may be repeated continually, without risking a deterioration of the product. Evidently, however, should the inner core 1 undergo plastic deformation during the connection of the ends, the jewel would not assume a frustoconical shape, but rather deform according to other shapes, e.g., following a development different from the circle C, always keeping within the plane of development of the latter. It should be noted that in the case of necklaces it was experimentally observed that the angle δ is preferably comprised in a range of 5 to 10 degrees. In any case, analogously to what has been described above, jewels other than necklaces may be manufactured, e.g. armlets or anklets. Owing to said features, the inner core 1 may conveniently be made of a shape- memory material, e.g. Titanium-nickel alloys, or mere titanium alloys, or even sufficiently elastic steels, like, e.g. spring steels. However, also other materials (e.g. gold alloys) could well be used also for the inner core, as long as they exhibit the required mechanical features. In addition to the aforedescribed advantages, the jewel according to the present invention is particularly light-weight during use and, surface thereof displayed when worn on being equal, it requires a smaller quantity of precious metal with respect to the jewels manufactured according to the known art.

In fact, the inner core made of a material with a good mechanical resistance, like, e.g., Titanium alloys, allows to use a hollow coating of particularly thin thickness, a resistance thereof to specific mechanical stresses being unnecessary.

Even the use of a coating with a substantially flat section allows to increase the surface in sight during the use of the jewel; this is so since, overall surface being equal, the sides 23 and 24 coinciding with the displayed jewel portion will have a greater surface extension. The jewel manufacturing method is schematically described in figures 6 A to 6G.

According to a preferred embodiment, and initially referring to figure 6A, in a first step of the method it is arranged in advance a support core 4 made of a material soluble in a chemical bath, like e.g. brass, Copper, tombac alloy, Aluminium, mild steel, a polymeric material or a combination thereof. In figure 6 A, the support core 4 has been depicted schematically and purely by way of example as a single elongated structure, yet of course it may have any one configuration, both longitudinal and transversal. In particular, the support core 4 may be made as a single body - or wire - or have a mesh structure formed, e.g., by thin braided Copper or brass wires, or even by a metal fabric, etc. Moreover, such a core may alternatively be made of a non-soluble material; however, as it will be made evident hereinafter, in this case there should be taken into account a step of extracting the support core. - J -

Then, onto such a support core 4 it is substantially helically wound a body of elongate shape, which in the present embodiment is a thin foil 20 having a substantially rectangular section, made of precious metal, that will make the coating 2. The foil 20 may be obtained from a wire squashed in a rolling mill or from a plate, and prior of its winding about it may have undergone an annealing process.

The winding about is such that at the end of this step the foil 20 entirely covers the side wall of the support core 4.

In particular, the support core 4 has a substantially rectilinear longitudinal development, in order to allow an easy winding about of the foil 20. Moreover, the support core 4 should also exhibit rigidity features such as to make possible subsequent machining of the flat strip once it is wound thereabout. In fact, during some of these surface machining a high pressure is exerted on the structure; the use of an insufficiently rigid core would entail deformations on the foil, compromising its aesthetic appearance. Moreover, for this step as well the use of a core having a substantially rectilinear development proves relevant, as the known-art machines carrying out such machining can work exclusively on elements of such a shape. In a subsequent step of the method, the composite structure support core 4 - foil 20 may be subjected to an annealing process. Then, it is provided a step of pressing by moulding or of rolling the composite structure, so as to make, as illustrated in figures 6C and 6D, a substantially elliptical cross section or, more generally, a section of different shape, according to the aforedisclosed features. Moreover, in a subsequent, step, the longitudinal surfaces of the wound foil 20 may be subjected to any one mechanical machining, like, e.g., diamond grinding, polishing, hammering, etc.

Then, the composite structure may be sectioned by cutting into any one number of longitudinal segments of desired length, each suitable for making a respective jewel or portion thereof. One of the advantages of the present method lies in that, unlike in known-art methods, a calendering step is unnecessary. In fact, said step is adopted to give to the segments thus made a longitudinal profile such as to adjust to the user's body and thereby ensuring a perfect wearability (wearing option). In the present case instead said wearability is provided directly by the shape-memory structure that will be described hereinafter.

As it is schematically shown in figure 6E, the support core 4 of each segment is removed by a solvent material 5. Of course, the type of solvent material depends on the specific making of the core 4, i.e., by the specific support materials used. E.g., when the support material is selected from a group comprising brass, Copper and tombac alloy, the solvent material will comprise nitric acid. When instead the support material comprises Aluminium, the solvent material will comprise caustic soda. Moreover, when the support material comprises mild steel, the solvent material will comprise hydrochloric acid. Lastly, when the former is a polymeric material, the latter will be a solution fluid.

Hence, evidently, should a support core of soluble material be not employed, its removal may anyhow take place, but it would entail greater difficulties in taking out the core from the foil wound thereon.

Therefore, at the end of said step, there will have been obtained, for each segment of the original unitary composite structure, an elongated hollow coating 2, formed by the helically wound foil 20. The coating 2 appears as an open spiral, whose features of strain strength and rigidity are particularly limited; evidently, the use of the sole coating as a jewel would not be viable.

Besides from the manufacturing of the elongated hollow coating 2, the method according to the present invention further provides a step of providing the inner core 1 , suitably pre-formed according to the arc of circle subtended by the angle α. As mentioned in the foregoing, for an optimal manufacturing of the jewel according to the present invention, the use of materials having shape-memory features is advisable.

Such features, well-known to a person skilled in the art, are attained by means of Titanium- and nickel-based alloys, exhibiting the feature of not plasticizing even when subjected to high strains. In other words, they can integrally recover the original shape they had prior of having been subjected to a deformation. To machine said alloys, it is useful to carry out a heating of the material to a high temperature, so as to surpass the austenitic transition range, and then a brisk cooling thereof, so as to attain the memory effect that proves particularly useful in said application.

Such a machining is however known to a person skilled in the art, and therefore it will not be detailed hereinafter.

Upon having shaped the inner core 1, the latter is inserted into the coating 2, as illustrated in figure 6G, so as to give also to the latter a development according to the arc of circle C subtended by the angle α.

Lastly, the manufacturing method according to the present invention provides the application of conventional closure elements that, secured at the ends 11 and 12, allow their connection, thereby implementing the abovedescribed operative configurations.

Moreover, it will be understood that the present invention is susceptible of several embodiments and variants alternative to the abovedisclosed ones, some of which will be briefly illustrated hereinafter with reference to the sole aspects differentiating them from the embodiments considered hereto.

Referring to figures 7 A, 7B and 7C the inner core 1 may have a plurality of openings 13, or it may also have a shape different from the circular one, as long as the development follows anyhow the direction defined by the arc of circle subtended by the angle α.

In the embodiment of 7C the inner core has a substantially sinusoidal pattern; nevertheless, the sinusoid oscillates within the circle defined by the circle C and, analogously to the preceding embodiment, there remain defined two ends 11 and 12, which will be connected so as to attain the configurations slant similarly to the preceding case.

The present invention was hereto described with reference to preferred embodiments thereof. It is understood that there may be other embodiments, referable to the same inventive kernel, all falling within the protective scope of the appended claims.

Claims

1. A jewel (100) comprising an elongated hollow coating (2), an inner core (1), of substantially flat shape, said inner core (1) extending internally to said coating (2) between opposite vertexes (21, 22) of said coating (2) and having a clearance sufficient to allow the sliding of said core (1) into said coating (2), characterized in that said inner core (1) develops substantially according to the arc of a circle (C), said arc being subtended by an angle (α) of extension smaller than 360°, in a manner such that the jewel may assume a first unfastened resting configuration, in which two longitudinal ends (11, 12) of said inner core (1) are separate and distinct, and a second fastened configuration, in which said core (1) is elastically deformed to bring said ends (11, 12) side by side the one to the other, so as to be connected or anyhow connectible, in said second configuration said inner core (1) together with said coating (2) being capable of arranging itself according to two different operative positions, in which said inner core (1) has respective opposite slant angles (δ, δ') with respect to a plane of development of said arc and in each of which said jewel displays a respective side thereof.

2. The jewel (100) according to the preceding claim, wherein in said fastened configuration said inner core (1) and said coating (2) have a development substantially according to a frustoconical surface.

3. The jewel (100) according to the preceding claim, wherein said frustoconical surface has an average circle (C) of a diameter smaller with respect to said circle (C).

4. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a closure element (3) apt to make the connection of said ends (11, 12).

5. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said inner core (1) is made of a shape-memory material.

6. The^'jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said inner core (1) is made by means of a shaped flat strip.

7. The jewel (100) according to the preceding claim, wherein said flat strip has a plurality of openings (13).

8. The jewel (100) according to claim 6 or 7, wherein said flat strip has a substantially rectangular cross section.

9. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said coating (2) is made by means of a spiral wound foil (20).

10. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said coating (2) has a cross section of substantially flattened shape, in a manner such as to define said opposite vertexes (21, 22) and two distinct sides (23, 24), each of said sides (23, 24) being respectively wearable in said distinct slant positions.

11. The jewel (100) according to the preceding claim, wherein said coating (2) has a cross section of substantially elliptical shape, said opposite vertexes (21, 22) being substantially coincident with the ends of the major axis thereof.

12. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said inner core (1) has a transversal extension such as to limit the torsion motions of said coating (2) according to the longitudinal development axis thereof, in a manner such as to substantially avoid plastic deformations of said coating (2).

13. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said inner core (2) exhibits an elasticity such as to allow an elastic deformation sufficient to make the connection of said ends (11, 12).

14. The jewel (100) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said inner core (1) and said coating (2) have substantially a same longitudinal extension. .

15. A method for manufacturing a jewel (100), comprising the steps of:

- Providing an inner core (1) of substantially flat shape;

- pre-forming said inner core (1) according to an arc of a circle (C), said arc being subtended by an angle (α) of extension smaller than 360°, in a manner such as to define two distinct longitudinal ends (11, 12);

- providing an elongated hollow coating (2) having an inner section apt to house said inner core (1) between two opposite vertexes (21, 22) of said coating (2); - inserting said inner core (1) into said hollow coating (2);

- applying a closure element (3) to said inner core (1), apt to make • connectible said distinct ends (11, 12).

16. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said elongated hollow coating (2) is made by means of the steps of: - providing a support core (4);

- spiral winding a body (20) of elongate shape about said support core (4);

- removing said support core (4).

17. The method according to the preceding claim, wherein said support core (4) is made of a soluble material, said core being removed by dissolution of said material in a respective solvent (7).

18. The method according to any one of the claims 16 to 17, wherein said hollow coating is subjected to a pressing action, apt to give a substantially elliptical section and/or a flattened shape, prior of the removal of said support core (4).

19. The method according to any one of the claims 15 to 18, comprising a further step of making a plurality of openings (13) on said inner core (1).