WO2007132129A2

WO2007132129A2 - Aqueous cosmetic composition, especially for use as moisturizing lotions

Info

Publication number: WO2007132129A2
Application number: PCT/FR2007/051278
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean-François TRANCHANT; Thierry Pouget; Elodie Verdier
Original assignee: Lvmh Recherche
Priority date: 2006-05-15
Filing date: 2007-05-15
Publication date: 2007-11-22
Also published as: US20090196893A1; FR2900818B1; FR2900818A1; JP2009537494A; WO2007132129A3

Abstract

This invention concerns the use of an aqueous composition containing at least one surfactant that is structured as a bi-layer in the sponge type phase as per its application as a composition for cosmetics or as an agent in a cosmetic composition. It also concerns aqueous compositions, in particular lotions in the sponge phase which contain at least one cosmetic active ingredient or a cosmetic additive. It also concerns a cosmetic care procedure for skin or skin appendages, particularly for moisturizing them and/or a procedure to apply a scent to the skin or its appendages.

Description

Aqueous cosmetic compositions, in particular moisturizing lotions

The invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions.

More specifically, the invention relates to the use of structured aqueous phases of the sponge phase in the field of cosmetics as well as new cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous phases of the sponge phase type.

The present invention results from the discovery by its inventors that it is possible to prepare cosmetic compositions by formulating these compositions in the form of sponge phase compositions. Such cosmetic compositions have many advantages, as will be discussed later.

The particular structure called "sponge phase" has been described in several fundamental scientific publications. In particular, mention may be made of the publication of M FiIaIi et al in J. Phys. France (1994), 4, 349-365, titled "L ₃ (sponge) phase in the very dilute diet: spontaneous tearing of the membrane? ".

The structural study of the sponge phases was also the subject of the publication of Alibert C, et al., Entitled "Dielectric study of the dilute part of a SDS / brine / alcohol system: a new sequence of phases?", In Europhysics Letters, 1997, 39 (5), 563-568.

Those skilled in the art know that a sponge phase consists of a lyotropic system based on surfactants, in the diluted state.

European Patent Application EP 1 433 476 discloses compositions for cleaning the skin which contain an oily constituent (A), a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant (B), a lipophilic amphiphilic agent (C), a water-soluble solvent (D), ) and water (E).

The compositions described in this document are in the form of an isotropic liquid phase having a bicontinuous structure and have, due to their composition good detergency and good rinsability,

However, to date, no cosmetic composition in the form of a sponge phase has been described. It is precisely this new form of cosmetic composition which is the subject of the present invention.

The invention results indeed from the finding by its inventors, that the sponge phases inherently have moisturizing properties of the skin. In addition, suitably formulated, they can lead to cosmetic compositions, including lotions, having a particularly pleasant appearance and feel, and further provide a sensation of great freshness during and after use.

These compositions may also be formulated to present different properties that are particularly advantageous in cosmetics, in particular different cosmetic properties related to the presence of cosmetic active agents specifically chosen for this purpose and / or of cosmetic additives.

It is also specified that the sponge phase of the invention has a particularly interesting vectorization effect of the cosmetic active agent it contains, if appropriate.

Finally, the appearance of the compositions according to the invention, especially when they are in the form of lotions, may be particularly attractive to users because these compositions can be completely transparent and clear.

Thus, the present invention relates, in a first aspect, a new use of sponge phases in the field of cosmetics. According to a second aspect, the invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions in the form of sponge phases.

According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing said compositions. According to a fourth aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic care method and / or for perfuming the skin or superficial body growths, in which a composition in the form of a sponge phase is applied topically to the skin or integuments.

The invention will be better understood from the description and examples which follow, given with reference to the figures which respectively represent:

- Figure 1: the schema of the structure of a sponge phase,

FIG. 2: an electron micrograph of the cryofracture of a sponge phase, this plate corresponding to the sponge phase obtained according to example 1,

FIGS. 3 to 5: various clichés obtained by electron microscopy of the cryofracture of particular compositions according to the invention described in Examples 2 to 4.

- Figure 6: an electron micrograph of the cryofracture of the composition of Example 2, after partial evaporation of water.

A number of definitions of terms used in this document are given below.

Sponge phase means the phases as described in the various literature documents under this name and, in particular, in the documents cited in the preamble of this document.

FIG. 1 schematically represents such a sponge phase. Such a phase consists of a lyotropic system in the diluted state and, more precisely, structured aggregates in the form of an isotropic phase, consisting of a single bilayer 1 randomly folded in space and separating two equivalent solvent domains, 2 and 2 '. Such a structure is characterized by the presence of interconnected channels 3 of solvent (said solvent being water in the case of the present invention) which give the assembly a structure evoking that of a sponge, hence the given name at this type of phase.

There is also shown in this same figure 1 an enlargement of the channel section schematically showing the bilayer of surfactant 1, separating the two media 2 and 2 '.

FIG. 2 shows the actual shape of a sponge phase, this phase being, in this case, that obtained according to example 1, visible on an electron microscope slide of a cryofracture of such a phase. In this photograph, the structure of this phase can be distinguished, in particular with the section of the channels 3 and the bilayer of surfactants 1 separating the two media 2 and 2 '.

The definition of "cosmetic composition" is that which is given in the regulations in this field. It is in particular a composition intended to be brought into contact with the various superficial parts of the human body, in particular with the epidermis or with the integuments (hair and nails), in particular with a view to keeping them in good condition. , to protect, clean, perfume or change the appearance.

In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic composition may in particular convey a cosmetically effective active agent. It may also, in particular contain a perfuming agent or a perfume composition, either to perfume said cosmetic composition itself, or that this composition is intended to perfume the skin or integuments. By liquid composition is meant that the composition is in a flowing fluid form. It may in particular have a viscosity more or less close to that of water. However, it is not prohibited, according to the invention, to introduce into the compositions, texturing agents, for example viscosifiers to adjust the viscosity of the composition, provided, however, to choose the nature of these agents and their concentration so as to respect the characteristic structure of the sponge phase of the composition.

An example of such a liquid composition is a cosmetic product, possibly perfumed, used as a lotion for the care or hygiene of the skin, in particular the epidermis, and / or the hair.

The definition of "cosmetically effective active agent" is that conventionally known in the field of cosmetology. These include active agents used for cosmetic skin care, such as moisturizers, cleansers, scrubs, tensors, toners, skin whitening, protectors (especially those protecting against ultraviolet radiation or other factors aggression such as cold and air pollution), anti-aging (especially anti-wrinkle and / or firming) and slimming. Of course, certain products such as solvents, in particular glycerol, may have a cosmetic effect, because of their well-known moisturizing properties, without however being considered, within the meaning of the invention, as cosmetically active agents, in the art. such an agent contributes actively to the formation of the characteristic structure of the sponge phase, as will be explained later.

In the context of the present invention, the definition of "cosmetic additive" refers to any ingredient used in formulas for cosmetic compositions for the purpose of conferring on them specific physical, chemical or sensory properties or to guarantee their stability, such as an antioxidant, dye, fragrance, texturizer or preservative.

According to the essential feature of its first object, the invention relates to the use of an aqueous composition containing at least one surfactant in the form of bilayers and having a sponge phase structure as a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

As indicated above, the very structure of the sponge phases gives the said aqueous compositions particularly advantageous properties, which led the inventors of the present invention to consider their use in the field of cosmetics and, more particularly as a cosmetic composition.

In the latter case, the aqueous composition, itself in the form of a sponge phase, constitutes the cosmetic composition of the invention. In particular, thanks to the moisturizing intrinsic properties of the sponge phase structures mentioned above, said cosmetic composition is moisturizing the skin.

A conductivity of 1 to 20 mS / cm of the composition ensures the latter its structure as a sponge phase and good stability. As can be seen from the following description, the invention provides various means of ensuring such conductivity, in particular by introducing into the composition sufficiently conducting salts or, more generally, by acting on the formulation and, in particular, on the nature of the surfactants contained in the composition, it being understood, however, that the composition should remain in the form of a lyotropic system in the diluted state.

In the context of the invention, it is further possible to introduce into these compositions one or more additional ingredients to give them complementary properties sought in the in the field of cosmetic compositions, by ensuring that the choice of these additional ingredients and their proportions is made so that the characteristic sponge phase structure is maintained. Thus, the aqueous compositions whose use is targeted according to the present invention have a sponge phase structure and can be used according to the invention as cosmetic compositions.

Depending on whether the cosmetic composition will contain such an additional ingredient or not, the sponge phase may be considered as the vehicle of such an additional ingredient or as the cosmetic product itself.

Said additional ingredient will generally consist of at least one cosmetic active agent or at least one cosmetic additive.

The compositions used according to the invention when they contain such an additional ingredient consisting of at least one cosmetic active agent and / or at least one cosmetic additive will constitute new compositions in themselves and will be the subject of the second aspect. of the invention.

Thus, the invention aims, according to its second object, a cosmetic composition containing an aqueous composition in the form of a sponge phase, said sponge phase containing at least one ingredient, said additional ingredient, selected from cosmetic active agents and cosmetic additives.

According to a preferred variant of this second object, the cosmetic composition is constituted in its entirety of said sponge phase containing said additional ingredient. The aqueous compositions used according to the invention as well as the novel compositions of the invention advantageously contain at least one surfactant, at least one alcohol chosen from the group consisting of glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols and C4 to C8 alcohols. and optionally at least one alkaline salt and / or at least one alkaline earth salt.

The novel aqueous compositions advantageously contain at least one surfactant, at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols and C4 to C8 alcohols, at least one cosmetic active substance or at least one cosmetic additive. and optionally at least one alkaline or alkaline earth salt.

In order to simplify the following description, compositions of the invention will be understood to mean both the compositions used according to the invention and the compositions which in themselves constitute new products.

Those skilled in the art know that a sponge phase usually has a conductivity of between 5 and 20 mS / cm. Thus, it will be careful to control the conductivity during the preparation of the compositions of the invention. The conductivity of the compositions of the invention is measured at

25 ^° C, by methods usually known to those skilled in the art.Thus the conductivity of the composition of the invention, measured at 25 ° C, is between 1 and 20 mS / cm, preferably between 5 and 20 mS / cm. It will be readily understood that the presence of a salt in the composition is not essential insofar as the formulation adopted makes it possible to obtain the targeted conductivity without resorting to an additional salt. The need to introduce a salt into the composition will depend on the nature of the cosmetic active agent or the cosmetic additive which may, for example, itself be in the form of salt and / or other constituents, in particular surfactant, which may contribute to obtain the preferred conductivity of between 1 and 20 mS / cm, preferably between 5 and 20 mS / cm.

To obtain the desired conductivity, it will be advantageous to use an alkaline or alkaline earth salt, preferably an alkaline salt, more preferably sodium chloride. The compositions of the invention preferably contain from 0.1 to 2% by weight of a C4 to C8 alcohol or a mixture of C4 to C8 alcohols.

As a preferred alcohol, hexanol will be selected.

The compositions advantageously contain glycerol and / or glycol. The glycol or glycerol will advantageously be present in the composition at a concentration by weight of between 0.1 and 50%, preferably between 20 and 40%.

Glycerol is particularly advantageous for obtaining the cosmetic compositions of the invention insofar as it also gives these compositions a particularly moisturizing character.

In order to obtain a sponge phase, it is necessary for the composition to contain at least one surfactant.

These surfactants may be chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. These various surfactants are well known to those skilled in the art. Among the numerous works dealing with these compounds, reference may be made to R. Porter's "Handbook of Surfactants", 1991, Ed. Blackie (Glasgow). The surfactant or the mixture of surfactants, will generally be present in the aqueous compositions of the invention at concentrations of between 0.2 and 2% by weight relative to the entire composition. By way of example of surfactants which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium or calcium dodecyl sulphate, cetyl pyridinium chloride, ethoxylated stearyl alcohols (Steareth-100), aminoxydesurfactants, dodecyltrimethyl bromide, and the like. ammonium (DTAB). Preferably, use will be made of at least one ionic surfactant and preferably anionic surfactant, in particular sodium or calcium dodecyl sulfate.

Although one of the advantages of the compositions of the invention is that they have a particularly pleasant appearance and feel because of their characteristic structure, while having a very low viscosity, comparable to that of water, it is not not excluded to introduce into these compositions, an agent for adjusting their viscosity, such as a texturing agent, thickening or gelling. Examples of such viscosifiers include alginates, chitosan and its derivatives, bacterial polysaccharides such as Alcaligenes polysaccharides and hydroxyethylcellulose.

This viscosifying agent will then be chosen as well as its concentration so as to respect the characteristic structure of the sponge phases. Finally, one skilled in the art will readily understand that, provided that the formulation of the entire composition is used, it is possible to incorporate various additional ingredients such as active agents of interest in the field of cosmetics. or cosmetic additives intended in particular to make the compositions more attractive to their users.

Such additional ingredients will generally be contained in the compositions of the invention at concentrations of less than 10% by total weight based on the weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will easily understand that for each type of additional ingredients, the lower concentrations will generally be those conventionally used in the field.

Of course, one will by systematic tests, choose both the concentration and the nature of these different additional ingredients so as not to affect the stability of the sponge phase. According to a first variant, the composition of the invention will contain at least one cosmetically active agent.

Such an agent will advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of moisturizing, cleansing, descaling, tensing, toning, skin-bleaching and protective agents (especially those protecting against ultraviolet radiation or other aggression factors such as cold and heat). atmospheric pollution), anti-aging (in particular anti-wrinkle and / or firming), slimming agents, skin-whitening agents, agents with anti-aging properties of the skin, skin-protecting agents, in particular agents with anti-radical activity, and vitamins.

By way of example of such cosmetic active agents, mention may be made, as hydrating agents, of ectoin and seawater, as skin-bleaching agents, kojic acid and ascorbic acid, and their esters, as protective agents and filters. as anti-aging agents, scavengers of free radicals, peptides, vitamin A and its esters. Among the cosmetically active agents, those which are water-soluble will preferably be chosen, for reasons of simplification of the formulation.

Those skilled in the art will readily understand that it is also possible to choose additional ingredients that would not be water-soluble, provided they are formulated properly so as to allow their solubilization in the aqueous phase used for the preparation of the sponge phase and the use in proportions compatible with obtaining such a sponge phase. A particularly useful cosmetic active agent that can be introduced into the sponge phases of the invention is the ectoin which is a natural molecule for maintaining the balance of the osmotic pressure in the cell and stabilizing the biopolymers (proteins, nucleic acids , membranes) forming a protective water shield against aggressions (heat, dehydration). This particular active agent is interesting for its gelling and moisturizing properties.

The ectoin may be present in the compositions of the invention at concentrations of between 0.01 and 10% by weight.

According to another variant, the composition of the invention will contain as additional ingredients at least one perfuming agent conferring on said composition a fragrant character.

As in the case of the cosmetic active agents above, the perfuming agent will advantageously be a water-soluble or formulated perfuming composition to be water-soluble. According to another variant, the composition of the invention may contain, as additional ingredient, a dye.

It will preferably be a water-soluble dye. By way of example of such dyes, mention will be made of those referenced FDC Blue 1 and FDC Yellow 5. As stated above, the presence of a salt is not always essential from the moment when the desired conductivity is obtained via other constituents of the composition.

When, in order to obtain this conductivity, the presence of at least one salt is used, this or these salts will advantageously be contained at a content of between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

It will advantageously be chosen to use sodium chloride as salt intended to provide the targeted conductivity for obtaining the sponge phase.

Finally, the composition may contain a preservative, for example a cosmetically acceptable ester or mixture of para-hydroxybenzoic acid esters (of the Paraben type), generally at a concentration of between 0.001 and 0.3% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition will advantageously be prepared to be compatible with topical application to the skin or integuments and will advantageously be formulated in the form of a lotion.

The different ingredients will preferably be chosen for their compatibility with such an application.

The invention also relates to the process for preparing the novel compositions of the invention.

Such a process comprises mixing at least one surfactant with at least one alcohol selected from glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols and C4 to C8 alcohols, at least one active substance and optionally at least one salt, in proportions such that said composition is in the form of a sponge phase.

In an advantageous implementation of the process of the invention, the various constituents of the composition of the invention are incorporated in proportions such that said sponge phase has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, of between 1 and 20 mS / cm, preferably between 5 and 20 mS / cm.

As described above, the surfactant or the mixture of surfactants may be selected from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, an ionic surfactant, and preferably anionic surfactant, will be selected.

According to an advantageous variant of this process, an aqueous brine, in particular a water-based brine, glycerol or glycol and sodium chloride brine, in which the other ingredients of the composition are subsequently incorporated, will be prepared first. , the proportions of the different ingredients being defined so as to obtain a sponge phase. Such an aqueous brine will advantageously contain 20 to

50 parts by weight, preferably 25 to 45 parts by weight, of glycerol and from 0.1 to 3, preferably from 0.5 to 2.5 parts by weight of sodium chloride, the remainder of this brine consisting of 'water.

The other constituents of the composition will then be introduced into this brine so as to obtain a sponge phase.

Such a choice of a composition which is particularly rich in glycerol, such as that obtained in the process described above, has the advantage of easily leading to compositions having a sponge phase structure but also leads to compositions which have all the advantages inherent to a composition rich in glycerol, namely a moisturizing character, gloss properties related to a high refractive index and good ability to make the skin more plastic and softer. Finally, according to its last aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic care method and / or for perfuming the skin or integuments comprising the topical application to the skin or integuments of an aqueous liquid composition as defined above or such obtained according to the method defined above.

In particular, the aforementioned method makes it possible to improve the hydration of the skin.

Indeed, as explained above, the compositions of the invention are particularly interesting because of their texture and because of their moisturizing properties related to the presence of the water channels but also related to the nature of the active agents and solvents that may contain the composition.

In particular, we use sponge phases rich in glycerol, this content can be up to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the sponge phase, to obtain particularly preferred moisturizing properties, especially for the development of shittori-type compositions particularly popular in the Asian market.

The compositions used in the process defined above have, in addition, the advantage of conducting, during their application to the skin and, by evaporation of a part of the solvent, to a real encapsulation of the active agent in the structure formed by the surfactant.

Indeed, it appeared that during evaporation, especially during the evaporation which occurs in contact with the product with the skin, the system is concentrated and the sponge phase is transformed into a vesicular phase, the vesicles being formed by the lamellar structure of the surfactant.

It will be specified that the aqueous compositions in the form of a sponge phase, in particular in the form of lotions, have a high degree of clarity, which does not necessarily present an aqueous suspension of vesicles formed of surfactant bilayers. The following examples are given as non-limiting examples of the invention and are illustrated in FIGS. 2 to 6. EXAMPLES

In all the examples which follow, the proportions are given in percentage by weight.

EXAMPLE 1 Moisturizing lotion in the form of a sponge phase

A brine is prepared by mixing:

- sodium chloride: 1%,

glycerol: 30%, water; 69%.

To 97.6 parts by weight of this brine is added 1.5 parts by weight of hexanol, 0.6 parts by weight of sodium dodecyl sulphate, and 0.01 parts by weight of methylparaben, as agent. Conservative.

After stirring the mixture obtained for 10 to 15 min, a transparent composition with a particularly soft feel is obtained which has a moisturizing character of the skin.

FIG. 2 is a cryofracture view which clearly shows the sponge phase structure of the composition obtained.

The conductivity of the moisturizing lotion is measured at a temperature of 25 ° C, using a Tacussel CD810 conductivity meter and a Tacussel platinum electrode (5x5mm, crystal XM 200), using a standard solution.

The measured conductivity for the moisturizing lotion prepared above is 5.25 mS / cm. EXAMPLE 2

Moisturizing lotion in the form of a sponge phase containing ectoin

A brine based on water, glycerol and sodium chloride is prepared.

This brine contains 0.5% by weight of sodium chloride and 30% by weight of glycerol. From this brine, a mixture is prepared in the following proportions by weight:

- ectoin: 0.2%

- sodium dodecyl sulphate: 0.6%

- hexanol: 1.5% - brine: 97.7%

After stirring for 10 to 15 min, the cliché shown in FIG. 3 is observed in cryofracture.

In this figure, the arrows indicate the presence of solvent channels. The transparent composition obtained has a particularly pleasant feel. It also has an important moisturizing power of the epidermis.

The conductivity of the moisturizing lotion is measured at 25 ° C, using the material described in Example 1. The conductivity measured for the composition of Example 2 is 2.6 mS / cm.

EXAMPLE 3 Fragrant moisturizing lotion in the form of a sponge phase containing a perfume composition

From the brine prepared in Example 2, a composition containing:

0.3% by weight of a commercial perfume concentrate (marketed by TAKASAGO Europe Perfumery Laboratory, France, under the designation TPF 1433)

0.6% by weight of sodium dodecyl sulphate and 2% of hexanol.

The cryofracture plate obtained from the composition prepared above is shown in FIG. 4 and the arrows indicate the presence of the characteristic channels of the sponge phase.

The transparent composition obtained has a particularly pleasant feel and fragrance.

EXAMPLE 4

Moisturizing lotion in the form of a sponge phase containing a coloring agent A brine prepared in Example 1 is prepared from a composition containing:

0.1% by weight of an aqueous solution of blue dye FDC Blue 1,

0.6% by weight of sodium dodecyl sulphate, 1.5% by weight of hexanol,

- 98.2% by weight of the brine.

As appears in FIG. 5, the composition thus obtained, examined in cryofracture, exhibits the characteristic structure a sponge phase, the characteristic channels of this structure being indicated by arrows.

The transparent composition obtained, in addition to having a particularly pleasant feel, is colored blue.

EXAMPLE 5

Demonstration of the formation of vesicles by evaporation

It has been observed by the inventors that the aqueous compositions according to the invention spontaneously formed vesicles after evaporation, even partially, of the water contained in the sponge phase.

Thus, when these compositions are in particular applied to the skin or to the integuments, in the context of a cosmetic use according to the invention, vesicles form on the surfaces of application as the evaporation of the water they contain. The wall of these vesicles is formed of one or more bilayers of the surfactant which structured the initial sponge phase.

In the case in particular where these compositions contain cosmetic actives, they are thus vectorized by these vesicles to their sites of action.

To demonstrate the formation of these vesicles, the moisturizing lotion of Example 2 is evaporated by gentle heating under reduced pressure to a water loss of 10%. A cryofracture of the composition thus obtained, observed by electron microscopy, is shown in FIG. 6. A large number of vesicles, which are formed from the initial sponge phase corresponding to the cryofracture plate shown in FIG. 3.

Claims

1. Use of an aqueous composition containing at least one surfactant in the form of bilayers and having a sponge phase structure as a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous composition is used as a cosmetic composition.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is a moisturizing composition of the skin.

4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said aqueous composition contains at least one surfactant, at least one alcohol selected from the group consisting of glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols and alcohols C4 at C8 and optionally at least one alkaline or alkaline earth salt.

5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said aqueous composition has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, between 2 and 20 mS / cm, preferably between 5 and 20 mS / cm.

6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said aqueous composition contains from 0.1 to 2% by weight of a C4 to C8 alcohol, in particular hexanol, or a mixture of C4 to C8 alcohols.

7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said aqueous composition contains from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 20 to 40% by weight of glycerol and / or glycol, in particular glycerol .

8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said aqueous composition contains from 0.2 to 2% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from the group of anionic surfactants, cationic, amphoteric, nonionic and their mixtures.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that said aqueous composition contains at least one ionic surfactant, preferably an anionic agent, in particular sodium or calcium dodecyl sulfate.

10. Use according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said aqueous composition contains from 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one alkaline or alkaline earth salt, preferably sodium chloride.

11. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said aqueous composition further contains an ingredient said additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of:

cosmetic active agents, in particular agents chosen from the group consisting of moisturizing, cleaning, descaling, tensing, tonifying and protective active agents, in particular protectors against ultraviolet radiation or other aggression factors such as cold and air pollution, anti-aging, especially anti-wrinkle and / or firming and slimming and

cosmetic additives chosen from the group consisting of cosmetic active agents, in particular agents chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, dyes, perfumers, texturizers and preservatives.

12. Use according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is formulated in the form of a lotion.

13. Aqueous cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains an aqueous composition in the form of a sponge phase as defined in one of claims 1 to 10, said sponge phase containing at least one ingredient, said additional ingredient, chosen from the cosmetic active agents and cosmetic additives.

14. An aqueous cosmetic composition according to claim 13, characterized in that it consists of an aqueous composition in the form of a sponge phase as defined in one of claims 1 to 10, said sponge phase containing at least one ingredient, said additional ingredient, selected from the active agents cosmetics and cosmetic additives.

15. Composition according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that it has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, of between 1 and 20 mS / cm, preferably between 5 and 20 mS / cm.

16. Composition according to one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that it contains at least one cosmetic active agent selected from the group consisting of moisturizing agents, cleaners, descalers, tensors, toners, protectors, including protectors against ultraviolet radiation or other aggression factors such as cold and air pollution, anti-aging especially anti-wrinkle and / or firming and slimming.

17. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that it contains at least one moisturizing agent such as ectoin or seawater, and / or at least one skin whitening agent such as kojic acid. or ascorbic acid or an ester thereof, and / or at least one protective agent such as a sunscreen and / or an anti-aging agent such as a scavenger of free radicals, peptides or vitamin A or an ester thereof.

18. Composition according to one of claims 16 or 17, characterized in that it contains ectoin.

19. Composition according to one of claims 13 to 18, characterized in that it contains a cosmetic additive selected from the group consisting of anti-oxidants, dyes, perfumes, texturizing and preservatives.

20. Composition according to claim 19, characterized in that it contains a dye.

21. Composition according to one of claims 19 or 20, characterized in that it contains a perfume or a perfume composition.

22. Composition according to one of claims 19 to 21, characterized in that it contains at least one texturing agent for adjusting its viscosity.

23. Composition according to one of claims 19 to 22, characterized in that it contains at least one preservative, preferably at a concentration of 0.05 to 0.3% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.

24. Composition according to one of claims 13 to 23, characterized in that it contains O (excluded) to 10% by weight of said additional agent or agents.

25. Composition according to one of claims 13 to 24, characterized in that said additional ingredient or at least one of said additional ingredients is a water-soluble compound or formulated so as to be water-soluble.

26. Composition according to one of claims 13 to 25, characterized in that it contains from 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one alkaline or alkaline earth salt, preferably sodium chloride.

27. Composition according to one of claims 13 to 26, characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion.

28. Process for the preparation of an aqueous composition according to one of claims 13 to 27, characterized in that it comprises the mixture of at least one surfactant, at least one alcohol chosen from glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols and C4 to C8 alcohols, at least one active substance and optionally at least one salt, in such proportions that said composition is in the form of a sponge phase.

29. The method of claim 28, characterized in that it comprises the preparation of an aqueous brine containing, per hundred parts by weight, 20 to 50 parts, preferably 25 to 45 parts, of glycerol and 0.1 to 3 parts. preferably 0.5 to 2.5 parts of sodium chloride, the remainder of said aqueous brine consisting of water, and the incorporation into said brine of the other components of said cosmetic composition, so as to obtain a sponge phase .

30. The method of claim 28 or 29, characterized in that the constituents of said cosmetic composition are incorporated in proportions such that said sponge phase has a conductivity, measured at 25 ° C, of between 1 and 20 mS / cm, preferably between 5 and 20 mS / cm.

31. Process for the cosmetic care of the skin or integuments and / or intended for perfuming the skin or integuments, characterized in that it comprises the topical application to the skin or integuments of an aqueous liquid composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 27 or as obtained according to the method of one of Claims 28 to 30.

32. The method of claim 31 characterized in that it is intended to improve the skin hydration.