WO2007089100A1

WO2007089100A1 - Emulsified composition for promoting the effect of skin-lifting

Info

Publication number: WO2007089100A1
Application number: PCT/KR2007/000530
Authority: WO
Inventors: Se Beom Kim; Byung Guen Chae; Youn Joon Kim; Han Kon Kim
Original assignee: Amorepacific Corporation
Priority date: 2006-01-31
Filing date: 2007-01-31
Publication date: 2007-08-09
Also published as: CN101374490B; KR100650043B1; CN101374490A

Abstract

The present invention relates to an emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity, comprising a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and an oil. More specifically, the inventive emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity is an oil-in-water emulsion composition, which comprises a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and at least one selected from the group consisting of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil, and thus has excellent stability. When the inventive composition is applied on the skin, it shows a light skin feeling, has high-temperature stability, and shows the effect of increasing skin elasticity.

Description

[DESCRIPTION] [Invention Title]

EMULSIFIED COMPOSITION FOR PROMOTING THE EFFECT OF SKIN-LIFTING [Technical Field]

The present invention relates to an emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity, comprising a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and an oil. More specifically, the inventive emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity is an oil-in-water emulsion composition, which comprises a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and at least one selected from the group consisting of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil, and thus has excellent stability. When the inventive composition is applied on the skin, it shows a light skin feeling, has high-temperature stability, and shows the effect of increasing skin elasticity. [Background Art]

Skin elasticity is maintained by elastic fibers consisting of elastin present in the dermis. Such elastic fibers have a very low elastic coefficient similar to that of rubber, and thus are easily deformed even by a small force, and are easily restored to the initial form when that force is removed. Also, the elastic fibers have a form in which microfibrils are embedded in amorphous matrix elastin, which is found in elastic fibers desmosine and isodesmosine which are originated from lysine, is a protein consisting of very special amino acids. Such desmosine and isodesmosine form a structure of cross-links in a long peptide chain, and such structures cause elastin to have properties like rubber.

Elastic fibers consisting of elastin exist together with collagen fibers, and skin elasticity can be maintained only when sufficient elastin and collagen exist

Meanwhile, a decrease in skin elasticity results from the weakening of skin cells, caused by aging or UV light, and is induced by a decrease in elastin production and by elastin breakdown. Elastase is expressed in the skin due to UV light and the like and degrades normal elastin, resulting in a decrease in skin elasticity. Also, the decrease in skin elasticity is induced by damage to or a decrease in the production of a collagen protein that forms more than 70% of the skin dermis. Moreover, collagen is also degraded by collagenase caused by UV light and the like.

With respect to patents relating to increasing skin elasticity, a protein fraction obtained from Leguminosae seeds shows the effect of increasing skin elasticity (US Patent No. 5,322,839), a composition comprising a malt extract and the like is applied to inhibit collagenase (Japanese Patent No. 5,105,683), and inhibitors of collagenase or elastase include cosmetic compositions containing peptidyl carbamates, peptidyl thiocarbamates, hydroxamates, cephalosporins, sulphonate salts, etc. Such prior technologies relate to simply inhibiting collagenase activity or elastase activity in order to show the effect of increasing skin elasticity. The materials according to such prior technologies act only in the dermal layer, and thus the function thereof cannot be exhibited to the maximum.

In general, oil-in-water cream formulations emulsified with a non- ionic surfactant are prepared by solidifying cream through the formation of alpha-gel in which the molar ratio of a higher aliphatic alcohol to a non-ionic surfactant is 3:1. To stabilize the formulations, it is required to solidify cream by forming a sufficient amount of alpha-gel. For the formation of alpha-gel, more than 4 wt% of an amphophilic substance such as a higher aliphatic alcohol is combined with a non-ionic surfactant. When an oil-in- water cream is prepared according to this method, the cream is stabilized due to the presence of alpha-gel required to solidify the cream, but gives a heavy touch when it is applied on the skin. Thus, it is difficult for this method to obtain a fresh and light cream. Also, that the molar ratio of the higher aliphatic alcohol to the non-ionic surfactant should be 3:1 will necessarily act as a restrictive condition determining compositions. Moreover, when the content of the surfactant is decreased in order to improve a touch, there will be problems in that the resulting system has reduced hardness, and thus is not creamy or has reduced temperature stability. [Disclosure] [Technical Problem]

Accordingly, the present inventors had many studies to solve the above-mentioned problems occurring in the prior art and, as a result, found that an oil-in-water emulsion composition comprising specific amounts of a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and at least one selected from ester oil and hydrocarbon oil, when applied on the skin, shows a light skin feeling, has high-temperature stability, and can increase skin elasticity, thereby completing the present invention.

Therefore, it is an object of the present invention to provide an emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity, comprising a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and at least one of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil. [Technical Solution]

To achieve the above-mentioned object, the present invention provides an emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity, comprising 5- 10 wt% of a higher aliphatic alcohol, 2-3 wt% of a non-ionic surfactant and 8- 20 wt% of at least one selected from the group consisting of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in further detail.

The present invention provides an oil-in-water emulsion composition comprising a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and at least one of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil.

In the composition of the present invention, the higher aliphatic alcohol is preferably contained in an amount of 5-10 wt%. Specific examples of the higher aliphatic alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol. It is preferable to use one or a mixture of two among them. If the higher aliphatic alcohol is used in amount of less than 5 wt%, an emulsion formulation capable of increasing skin elasticity cannot be formed and high- temperature stability can be reduced, and if it is used in an amount of more than 10 wt%, the resulting composition when applied on the skin will show a hard and stiff skin feeling to give unsatisfactory skin feeling.

Also, in the composition of the present invention, the non-ionic surfactant is preferably contained in an amount of 2-3 wt%. As the non-ionic surfactant, it is preferable to use an alkylether-based surfactant or an alkylester-based surfactant, which have a straight-chain alkyl group having more than 16 carbon atoms. Specific examples thereof include POE alkyl ethers, and POE alkyl esters. If the amount of the non-ionic surfactant is less than 2 wt%, the high-temperature stability of the emulsion composition will be reduced, and if it exceeds 3 wt%, the emulsion composition will show a sticky skin feeling, and thus cannot give a satisfactory skin feeling.

Furthermore, as the oil in the composition of the present invention, any one or a combination of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil can be contained in an amount of 8-10 wt%. Examples of the oil are limited to oils, which are safe to the skin, and thus suitable for use in cosmetics. Specific examples thereof include cetylethyl hexanoate, dicaprylic carbonate, hydrogenated polydecene, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, etc. The oil used in the present invention plays a role to dissolve the higher aliphatic alcohol, to improve a rubbing property in skin feeling of cosmetic composition and to give a moisturizing effect. If the amount of the oil is less than 8 wt%, it will be difficult to dissolve solid components in the preparation of the emulsion composition, which leads to be unsuitable for use, and if it exceeds 20 wt%, the emulsion composition will have relatively poor high-temperature stability and will be glossy when it is applied on the skin, and thus will not be suitable for use in cosmetics.

[Mode for Invention]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, comparative examples and test examples. It is to be understood, however, that the scope of the present invention are not limited to these examples.

Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4

An oily phase consisting of the ingredients 1-7 in amounts (wt%) shown in Table 1 below was placed in one container and heated up to 70 ^"C to dissolve. Also, an aqueous phase consisting of the ingredients 8-12 shown in

Table 1 was placed in the other container and heated up to 70 ^°C to dissolve. Then, the oil phase was added to the aqueous phase, followed by emulsifϊcation using a homogenizer for about 3 minutes. Finally, the emulsion was put into an air-tight container, and then it was cooled down to 30 ^°C using a cooler. Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 provide emulsion formulations for cream. Examples 1-3 are emulsion formulations for cream which contain a higher aliphatic alcohol, a non-ionic surfactant and an oil with preferred range in amount. Comparative Examples 1 and 2 contain a smaller amount of non-ionic surfactant than preferred amount. Among them, Comparative Example 1 is an emulsion formulation not containing any oil component, and Comparative Example 2 is an emulsion formulation containing smaller amount of oil than preferred amount. Comparative Example 3 is an example which contains smaller amount of the higher aliphatic alcohol than preferred amount. Comparative Example 4 is an example in which both the non-ionic surfactant and the higher aliphatic alcohol are contained in amounts larger than preferred amounts.

[Table 1 ] Composition of the examples and comparative examples (wt%)

Test Example 1 : Evaluation of skin elasticity after application to human skin

The skin feeling of each sample based on Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was evaluated by panels consisting of 20 women ranging from 25 to 40 year old in age, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 2 below. As an evaluation item, skin elasticity felt immediately after the application was measured and evaluated on a scale of 1-5: 1= very bad, 2= bad; 3: moderate; 4: good; and 5: very good.

[Table 2] Results of preference evaluation

As can be seen from the comparison between Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 in Table 2, it is found that when the higher aliphatic alcohol, the non-ionic surfactant and the oil were used in amounts of 5-10 wt%, 2-3 wt% and 8-20 wt%, respectively, the composition can increase skin elasticity after the application on the skin.

Test Example 2: In-vivo test on improvement of skin elasticity

In order to compare the effect of restoring skin elasticity among the emulsion formulations prepared in the above Examples, skin elasticity was measured by 280 woman ranging from 30 to 40 year old in age, who were divided into 14 groups, each consisting of 20 persons. The test protocol is as follows.

Each of the test groups was required to apply each of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 to the face skin once a day for 1 month. After 1 month, the elasticity of the face skin was measured using a cutometer (SEM474, Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Germany) capable of measuring skin elasticity, and the measured skin elasticity was compared with skin elasticity measured before the application.

The test results are shown in Table 3 below. Numerical values in Table 3 are average values measured for the members of each test group.

[Table 3] Clinical results after use of 1 month

Test Example 3: Test of high-temperature stability of emulsion compositions for improving skin elasticity

The high-temperature stability of the compositions prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was observed, and the results are shown in Table 4 below.

[Table 4) Observation results of high-temperature stability (50 "C)

O: The separation between the oil phase and the aqueous phase was not observed.

Δ : A slight separation between the oil phase and the aqueous phase was observed.

X: A significant separation between the oil phase and the aqueous phase was observed.

As can be seen in Table 4 above, in the case where the amount of the non-ionic surfactant was less than 2% (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), and the case where the amount of the higher aliphatic alcohol was less than 5% (Comparative Example 3), emulsion stability at 50 ^°C was poor. The composition of Comparative Example 4 showed emulsion stability similar to those of Examples 1-3, but it had a poor application property when applied on the skin, and was sticky after application, which leads to be unsuitable for use in cosmetics. On the other hand, it was proven that the compositions of Examples 1-

3 have good emulsion stability and temperature stability, and show an excellent effect of improving skin elasticity. [Industrial Applicability]

As described above, the oil-in-water emulsion composition according to the present invention comprises the higher aliphatic alcohol, the non-ionic surfactant and the oil. When the composition is applied on the skin, it shows a light skin feeling, has high-temperature stability and shows the effect of increasing skin elasticity.

Claims

[CLAIMS] [Claim 1 ]

An emulsion composition for improving skin elasticity, comprising 5- 10 wt% of a higher aliphatic alcohol, 2-3 wt% of a non-ionic surfactant and 8- 20 wt% of at least one selected from the group consisting of ester oil and hydrocarbon oil. [Claim 2]

The emulsion composition of Claim 1, wherein the higher aliphatic alcohol is at least one selected from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol. [Claim 3]

The emulsion composition of Claim 1 , wherein the nonionic surfactant is an alkylether-based surfactant or an alkylester-based surfactant, which have a straight-chain alkyl group having more than 16 carbon atoms. [Claim 4]

The emulsion composition of Claim 1, wherein the ester oil or hydrocarbon oil is at least one selected from the group consisting of cetylethyl hexanoate, dicaprylic carbonate, hydrogenated polydecene and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.