WO2007051596A1

WO2007051596A1 - Novel retinyl biotinates and use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2007051596A1
Application number: PCT/EP2006/010478
Authority: WO
Inventors: Raphael Beumer; Jochen Klock; Brigitte Mai; Stefan Martin Stoeckli
Original assignee: Dsm Ip Assets B.V.
Priority date: 2005-11-03
Filing date: 2006-10-31
Publication date: 2007-05-10

Abstract

The present invention relates to novel retinyl esters of biotin i.e. retinyl biotinates, particularly all- trans retinyl D-biotinate. In a further aspect, the invention relates to compositions, in particular to topical compositions for cosmetic or pharmaceutical use, containing the novel retinyl biotinates. Furthermore, the invention relates to the use of the retinyl biotinates for lightening human skin.

Description

Novel retinyl biotinates and use thereof

Skin color is mainly determined by the amount of melanin in the skin. Skin lightening agents can inhibit or even reverse melanin biosynthesis and are thus useful in whitening or lightening the human skin. Various skin lightening agents are known such as Kojic acid,

Hydroquinone, Arbutin or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. However, the hitherto commercially available compounds often lack stability in cosmetic compositions leading to an unpleasant discoloration of the final product. Other ingredients such as Hydrochinone are described to have unwanted side effects i.e. resulting in skin irritation and burning of the skin which limits the area of application. Thus, there is an ongoing need for stable and efficacious skin lightening agents with negligible side effects.

Surprisingly it has been found that the novel retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, are able to reduce the intracellular melanin production and therefore can be used against unwanted pigmentation of human skin.

Thus, the invention relates to novel retinyl biotinates, particularly to all-trans retinyl D- biotinate. Additionally, the invention relates to compositions, preferably to topical compositions comprising the retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate. In another aspect, the invention relates to the use of retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, for the treatment of pigmentation disorders, as an agent for skin lightening and/ or as an agent for preventing tanning of the skin for example in compositions for topical application, particularly for cosmetics purposes.

Furthermore, it has been found that the novel retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, are also suitable for various other cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications. Thus, the invention is also concerned with the use of retinyl biotinates, particularly all- trans retinyl D-biotinate, for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin. Finally, the novel retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate can be used for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss.

The term "treatment or prevention of symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin" as used herein comprises treatment or prevention of wrinkles or dry skin or sensitive skin, thickening of the epidermis; inhibition of skin aging due to environmental or other external influences, such as prevention or treatment of photodamage, prevention or treatment of oxidative stress phenomena; further, prevention or treatment of cellulite, prevention and treatment of disturbances in ceramide and lipid synthesis, prevention of excess sebum production, reduction of activities of matrix metallo proteases or other proteases in the skin, treatment and prevention of inflammatory skin conditions including acne (i.e., anti-acne treatment), atopic eczema, polymorphic light eruption, psoriasis and vitiligo.

The present invention also comprises topical compositions, i.e. compositions for cosmetic as well as for dermatological, i.e. pharmaceutical use which contain the retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate as an active ingredient in a vehicle respectively a carrier that is conventionally used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions (the term 'composition' also encompasses the terms 'preparation' or 'formulation').

Therefore, the invention also relates to compositions, preferably to topical compositions, in particular for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purpose, comprising a retinyl biotinate, in particular all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, and a conventional carrier. The compositions according to the invention comprise the retinyl biotinate in a concentration of from about 0.001 wt. % to about 50.0 wt. %, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5.0 wt. %, most preferably in an amount of from about 0.05 wt. % to about 1.0 wt. % based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, the invention relates to a skin lightening composition comprising a retinyl biotinate and a carrier conventionally used in topical formulations.

The invention also relates to the use of the compositions according to the invention for the treatment or prevention of pigmentation disorders, for skin lightening and/ or for preventing tanning of the skin. The compositions according to the present invention can further be used for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin as well as for the treatment or prevention of itchy or irritated skin.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of the novel retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, as a medicament. In particular the invention relates to the use of the retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, in the manufacture of a topical composition for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, for lightening of human skin, against unwanted pigmentation of human skin and/ or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders, for preventing tanning of the skin and for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss, in particular for lightening of human skin.

Additionally, the invention relates to a method for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, for lightening of human skin, for preventing unwanted pigmentation of human skin, for the treatment of pigmentation disorders, for preventing tanning of the skin and for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss, in particular for lightening of human skin, which method comprises administering an effective amount of a retinyl biotinate, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, to the skin of an individual in need of such treatment. The term 'an effective amount' refers to an amount necessary to obtain a physiological effect. The physiological effect may be achieved by one single dose or by repeated doses. The dosage administered may, of course, vary depending upon known factors, such as the physiological characteristics of the particular composition and its mode and route of administration; the age, health and weight of the recipient; the nature and extent of the symptoms; the kind of concurrent treatment; the frequency of treatment; and the effect desired and can be adjusted by a person skilled in the art. The effective amount of the retinyl biotinate, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, is preferably applied in the form of a topical composition according to the invention. The topical composition is preferably applied at least once per day but can also be applied several - A - times a day e.g. two or three times a day. Usually it takes at least two days until the desired effect is achieved. However, it can take several weeks or even months until the desired effect is achieved.

The amount of the topical composition which is to be applied to the skin depends on the concentration of the retinyl biotinate, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, in the compositions and the desired cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect. For example, application can be such that a creme is applied to the skin. A creme is usually applied in an amount of about 0.5 to 2 mg creme/cm² skin. The amount of the composition which is applied to the skin is, however, not critical, and if with a certain amount of applied composition the desired effect cannot be achieved, a higher concentration of the active ingredients can be used e.g. by applying more of the composition or by applying compositions which contain more active ingredient.

A further preferred aspect of the invention is the use of the novel retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, for prevention of repigmentation, protection against sun or UV-induced skin darkening and reducing skin melanin level or enhancement of skin bleaching action; action on blemishes; and prevention or reduction of unwanted hair pigmentation and/or brightening the hair.

In accordance with the invention the retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D- biotinate, may be used also in topical compositions for treatment and prevention of pigmentation disorders, such as

primary hyperpigmentation disorders which include those that are nevoid, congenital or acquired such as local hyperpigmented disorders which include pigmented nevi, ephelides (juvenile freckles, an inherited characteristic; age spots; and cafe-au-lait spots) and lentigines (solar lentigines, senile lentigines, senile freckles, liver-spots); and

secondary hyperpigmentation disorders which include those occurring after a separate dermatologic condition, including acne; such disorders are most commonly seen in dark- skinned individuals and are called postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Further hyperpigmentation disorders which include arsenical melanosis and disorders associated with Addison's disease; freckling and cafe-au-lait spots produced by neurofibromatosis; regional or patterned hyperpigmentation caused by melanocyte hyperactivity, such as idiopathic melasma occurring either during pregnancy or secondary to estrogen-progesterone contraception.

Other examples for disorders which, in accordance with the invention, may be treated or prevented by topical application of a retinyl biotinate include the pigmentation following physical trauma, eczematoid eruptions are lupus erythematosus, and dermatoses such as pityriasis rosea, psoriasis, dermatitis herpetiformis, fixed drug eruptions, photodermatitis and Lichen simplex chronicus, tinea versicolor (under specific environmental conditions for a yeast type of skin fungus, present on normal skin) and Acanthosis nigricans; post- inflammatory hyperpigmentations which can result due to abrasion, burns, wounds, insect bites, dermatitis, and other similar small, fixed pigmented lesions; Berloque hyperpigmentation, which is due to phototoxicity from chemicals in the rinds of limes and other citrus fruits, and to celery; and accidental hyperpigmentation which can result from post-lesional photosensitization and scarring.

Further examples of pigmentation disorders include those caused by some drugs, including chloroquine, chlorpromazine, minocycline and amiodarone. Benzoyl peroxide, fluorouracil and tretinoin can cause hyperpigmentation; fixed drug eruptions can result from phenolphthalein in laxatives, trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole, nonsteroidal anti- inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and tetracyclines.

In certain forms of leukoderma such as vitiligo where, if the injured skin cannot be repigmented, the residual zone of normal skin are depigmented to impart a homogeneous white color to the entire skin. In all these conditions treatment in accordance with the invention may be considered.

Especially, retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate, in accordance with the present invention, can be used to alter hair color, reduce hair growth, reduce immune suppression (e.g., after UV irradiation), exert analgesic effects (e.g., in sunburn or skin irritation), and reduce sebum production so that they may find use also in the topical treatment of acne and skin impurities.

The term "biotin" as used herein denotes any stereoisomer of biotin or racemate or random mixture of stereoisomers. For the purposes of the present invention, the pure stereoisomer, D(+) biotin, is preferred. The term "retinyl" or "retinol" as used herein encompasses all-trans retinyl and all-trans-retinol, respectively, as well as cis isomers, e.g., 13-cis or 9-cis, or 9,11-d-cis, with all-trans retinyl and all-trans retinol, respectively, being preferred.

The novel retinyl esters of biotin, i.e. the novel retinyl biotinates, can be prepared by esterifying biotin with retinol such as with eg. 13-cis or 9-cis, or 9,11-d-cis or all-trans retinol, with all-trans retinol being preferred. The esterification can be accomplished by any method known for esterifying a carboxylic acid with an alcohol.

In accordance with the present invention, the retinyl biotinates can be used in topical compositions, in particular topical cosmetic or dermatological, i.e. pharmaceutical, compositions which contain at least one retinyl biotinates and a vehicle/ carrier conventionally used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. All cosmetically acceptable ingredients i.e. excipients, adjuvants, additives, diluents, etc. and mixtures thereof may be used as suitable carrier. In the following examples of cosmetic and/ or dermatological excipients, adjuvants, additives, diluents are listed which can be used in compositions according to the invention without being limited thereto. The necessary amounts of the cosmetic and dermatological excipients, adjuvants, additives and diluents can, based on the desired product, easily be determined by the skilled person.

The term "cosmetic preparation" or "cosmetic composition" as used in the present application refers to cosmetic compositions as defined under the heading "Kosmetika" in Rδmpp Lexikon Chemie, 10th edition 1997, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York.

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are topical compositions, particularly for cosmetic purpose, in the form of a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, or alternatively in the form of an emulsion or micro emulsion (in particular of O/W or W/O type, 0/W/O or W/O/W-type), PET-emulsions, multiple emulsions, bickering emulsions, hydrogels, alcoholic gels, lipogels, one or multiphase solutions or a vesicular dispersion and other usual compositions, which can also be applied by pens, as masks or as sprays. The emulsions can also contain anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant(s).

Preferred compositions according to the invention are skin care preparations, decorative preparations, light protection preparations and functional preparations.

Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, body oils, body lotions, body gels, treatment creams, skin protection ointments, shaving preparations, such as shaving foams or gels, skin powders such as baby powder, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, revitalizing body sprays, cellulite gels, anti acne preparations and peeling preparations.

Examples of decorative preparations are in particular lipstick, eye shadow, mascaras, dry and moist make-up, rouge, powders, and suntan lotions.

Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing active ingredients such as hormone preparations, vitamin preparations, vegetable extract preparations, anti-ageing preparations, and antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations without being limited thereto.

The topical compositions in accordance with the invention can be in the form of a liquid, lotion, a thickened lotion, a gel, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a powder, a makeup, or a solid tube stick and can be optionally be packaged as an aerosol and can be provided in the form of a mousse such as a aerosol mousse, a foam or a spray foams, sprays, sticks, a gel, a plaster, a powder, a cleanser, a soap or aerosols or wipes.

The topical compositions of the invention can also contain usual cosmetic or pharmaceutical adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives/ antioxidants, fatty substances/ oils, water, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, softeners, emulsifiers, sunscreens, antifoaming agents, moisturizers, fragrances, surfactants, fillers, sequestering agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents, dyes, colorants, pigments or nanopigments, e.g. those suited for providing a photoprotective effect by physically blocking out ultraviolet radiation, or any other ingredients usually formulated into cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. The necessary amounts of the cosmetic and dermatological adjuvants and additives can, based on the desired product, easily be chosen by a skilled artisan in this field and will be illustrated in the examples, without being limited hereto. The usual cosmetic adjuvants and additives such as emulsifiers, thickeners, surface active ingredients and film formers can show synergistic which can be determined by the expert in the field with normal trials, or with the usual considerations regarding the formulation of topical composition in particular for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purpose.

An additional amount of antioxidants/ preservatives is generally preferred. Based on the invention all known antioxidants usually formulated into topical compositions can be used. Especially preferred are antioxidants chosen from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazole (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- carnosine and derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β- carotene, lycopene) and derivatives, chlorogenic acid and derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and its glycosyl-, N-acetyl-, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, amyl-, butyl- and lauryl-, palmitoyl-; oleyl-, y-linoleyl-, cholesteryl- and glycerylester) and the salts thereof, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (ester, ether, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (such as buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthioninsulfone, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low compatible doses (e.g. pmol to μmol/kg), additionally (metal)-chelators (such as α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmic-, phytinic acid, lactoferrin), β-hydroxyacids (such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), huminic acid, gallic acid, gallic extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (such as γ-linoleic acid, linolic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (such as ascorbylpalmitate and ascorbyltetraisopalmitate, Mg- ascorbylphosphate, Na-ascorbylphosphate, Na-ascorbylacetate), tocopherol and derivatives (such as vitamin-E-acetate), mixtures of nat. vitamin E, vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin-A-palmitate and -acetate) as well as coniferylbenzoate, rutinic acid and derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, trihydroxybutyrophenone, urea and its derivatives, mannose and derivatives, zinc and derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives (e.g. selenomethionin), stilbenes and derivatives (such as stilbenoxide, trans-stilbenoxide) and suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of the named active ingredients. One or more preservatives/ antioxidants may be present in an amount about 0.01 wt.% to about 10 wt.% of the total weight of the topical composition of the present invention. Preferably, one or more preservatives/antioxidants are present in an amount about 0.1 wt.% to about 1 wt.%.

Typically topical compositions according to the invention also contain surface active ingredients like emulsifiers, solubilizers and the like. An emulsifier enables two or more immiscible components to be combined homogeneously. Moreover, the emulsifier acts to stabilize the composition. Emulsifiers that may be used in the present invention in order to form O7W, W/O, 0/W/O or W/O/W emulsions/ microemulsions include sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, polyglyceryl-3- diisostearate, polyglycerol esters of oleic/isostearic acid, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4-oleate, polyglyceryl-4- oleate/PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, oleamide DEA, TEA myristate, TEA stearate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, potassium ricinoleate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate, potassium castorate, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof. Further suitable emulsifiers are phosphate esters and the salts thereof such as cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^®), potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® K), sodium glyceryl oleate phosphate, hydrogenated vegetable glyceride phosphates and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, one or more synthetic polymers may be used as an emulsifier. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylates/Ci_O-3o alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-22/dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG- 45/dodecyl glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof. The preferred emulsifiers are cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® A), diethanolamine cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^®), potassium cetyl phosphate (Amphisol^® K), PVP Eicosene copolymer, acrylates/Ci_O-₃o-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan isostearate, and mixtures thereof. The one or more emulsifiers are present in a total amount about 0.01 wt.% to about 20 wt.% of the total weight of the topical composition of the present invention. Preferably, about 0.1 wt.% to about 10 wt.% of emulsifiers is used.

The lipid phase of the topical compositions can advantageously be chosen from: mineral oils and mineral waxes; oils such as triglycerides of caprinic acid or caprylic acid and castor oil; oils or waxes and other natural or synthetic oils, in a preferred embodiment esters of fatty acids with alcohols e.g. isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin or esters of fatty alcohols with carboxylic acids or fatty acids; alkylbenzoates; and/or silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclomethicones and mixtures thereof.

Exemplary fatty substances which can be incorporated in the oil phase of the emulsion, microemulsion, oleo gel, hydrodispersion or lipodispersion of the topical composition of the present invention are advantageously chosen from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl carboxylic acids with 3 to 30 carbon atoms, and saturated and/or unsaturated, linear and/or branched alcohols with 3 to 30 carbon atoms as well as esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and of saturated and/or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols of 3-30 carbon atoms. Such esters can advantageously be selected from octylpalmitate, octylcocoate, octylisostearate, octyldodecylmyristate, cetearylisononanoate, isopropylmyristate, isopropylpalmitate, isopropylstearate, isopropyloleate, n-butylstearate, n-hexyllaureate, n-decyloleate, isooctylstearate, isononylstearate, isononylisononanoate, 2- ethyl hexylpalmitate, 2- ethylhexyllaurate, 2-hexyldecylstearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyloleate, oleylerucate, erucyloleate, erucylerucate, tridecylstearate, tridecyl- trimellitate, as well as synthetic, half-synthetic or natural mixtures of such esters e.g. jojoba oil.

Other fatty components suitable for use in the topical compositions of the present invention include polar oils such as lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely triglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, straight or branched carboxylic acid with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 18 carbon-atoms whereas the fatty acid triglycerides are preferably chosen from synthetic, half synthetic or natural oils (e.g. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sun flower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rape seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, wheat oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil and others); apolar oils such as linear and/ or branched hydrocarbons and waxes e.g. mineral oils, vaseline (petrolatum); paraffins, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecanes, favored polyolefins are polydecenes; dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylylether; linear or cyclic silicone oils such as preferably cyclomethicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane; cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof.

Other fatty components which can advantageously be incorporated in topical compositions of the present invention are isoeikosane; neopentylglycoldiheptanoate; propyleneglycoldicaprylate/ dicaprate; caprylic/ capric/ diglycerylsuccinate; butyleneglycol caprylat/caprat; C_12-i₃-alkyllactate; di-C₁₂-i₃ alkyltartrate; triisostearin; dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylat/hexacaprate; propyleneglycolmonoisostearate; tricaprylin; dimethylisosorbid. Especially beneficial is the use of mixtures C₁₂-i₅-alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexylisostearate, mixtures Ci_2-i₅-alkylbenzoate and isotridecylisononanoate as well as mixtures of C_12-i₅-alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexylisostearate and isotridecylisononanoate. The oily phase of the topical compositions of the present invention can also contain natural vegetable or animal waxes such as bee wax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other waxes of insects as well as shea butter and cocoa butter.

A moisturizing agent may be incorporated into a topical composition of the present invention to maintain hydration or rehydrate the skin. Moisturizers that prevent water from evaporating from the skin by providing a protective coating are called emollients. Additionally an emollient provides a softening or soothing effect on the skin surface and is generally considered safe for topical use. Preferred emollients include mineral oils, lanolin, petrolatum, capric/caprylic triglyceraldehydes, cholesterol, silicones such as dimeticone, cyclometicone, almond oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, castor oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, coconut oil and grape seed oil, cocoa butter, olive oil aloe extracts, fatty acids such as oleic and stearic, fatty alcohols such as cetyl and hexadecyl (ENJAY), diisopropyl adipate, hydroxybenzoate esters, benzoic acid esters of Cg-is-alcohols, isononyl iso-nonanoate, ethers such as polyoxypropylene butyl ethers and polyoxypropylene cetyl ethers, and C₁₂-₁₅- alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred emollients are hydroxybenzoate esters, aloe vera, C_12-i₅-alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof. An emollient is present in an amount of about 1 wt.% to about 20 wt.% of the total weight of the topical composition. The preferred amount of emollient is about 2 wt.% to about 15 wt.%, and most preferably about 4 wt.% to about 10 wt.%.

Moisturizers that bind water, thereby retaining it on the skin surface are called humectants. Suitable humectants can be incorporated into a topical composition of the present invention such as glycerin, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea, phospholipids, collagen, elastin, ceramides, lecithin sorbitol, PEG-4, and mixtures thereof. Additional suitable moisturizers are polymeric moisturizers of the family of water soluble and/ or swellable/ and/ or with water gelating polysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and/or a fucose rich polysaccharide which is e.g. available as Fucogel®1000 (CAS-Nr. 178463-23-5) by SOLABIA S. One or more humectants are optionally present at about 0.5 wt.% to about 8 wt.% in a topical composition of the present invention, preferably about 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%.

The aqueous phase of the preferred topical compositions of the present invention can contain the usual cosmetic or pharmaceutical additives such as alcohols, especially lower alcohols, preferably ethanol and/ or isopropanol, low diols or polyols and their ethers, preferably propyleneglycol, glycerin, ethyleneglycol, ethyleneglycol monoethyl- or monobutylether, propyleneglycol monomethyl- or -monoethyl- or-monobutylether, diethyleneglycol monomethyl-or monoethylether and analogue products, polymers, foam stabilizers; electrolytes and especially one or more thickeners. However, preferably the topical compositions of the present invention are free of ethanol, more preferably they are free of alcohols, and most preferably they are free of organic solvents, since such compounds can cause skin irritation.

Thickeners that may be used in topical compositions of the present invention to assist in making the consistency of a product suitable include carbomer, siliciumdioxide, magnesium and/ or aluminium silicates, beeswax, stearic acid, stearyl alcohol polysaccharides and their derivatives such as xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyacrylamides, acrylate crosspolymers preferably a carbomer, such as carbopole^® of type 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984 alone or mixtures thereof.

Suitable neutralizing agents which may be included in the topical composition of the present invention to neutralize components such as e.g. an emulsifier or a foam builder/stabilizer include but are not limited to alkali hydroxides such as a sodium and potassium hydroxide; organic bases such as diethanolamine (DEA), triethanolamine (TEA), aminomethyl propanol, and mixtures thereof; amino acids such as arginine and lysine and any combination of any foregoing. The neutralizing agent can be present in an amount of about 0.01 wt.% to about 8 wt.% in the topical composition of the present invention, preferably, 1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%.

The addition of electrolytes into the topical composition of the present invention may be necessary to change the behavior of a hydrophobic emulsifier. Thus, the emulsions/ microemulsions of this invention may contain preferably electrolytes of one or several salts including anions such as chloride, sulfates, carbonate, borate and aluminate, without being limited thereto. Other suitable electrolytes can be on the basis of organic anions such as, but not limited to, lactate, acetate, benzoate, propionate, tartrate and citrate. As cations preferably ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali- or alkaline earth metals, magnesium-, iron- or zinc-ions are selected. Especially preferred salts are potassium and sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Electrolytes can be present in an amount of about 0.01 wt.% to about 8 wt.% in the topical composition of the present invention. The topical compositions of the invention can preferably be provided in the form of a lotion, a thickened lotion, a gel, a cream, a milk, an ointment, a powder or a solid tube stick and can be optionally be packaged as an aerosol and can be provided in the form of a mousse, foam or a spray. The topical compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of a suspension or dispersion in solvents, in particular in water or fatty substances, or alternatively in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion (in particular of O/W or VWO type, 0/W/O or W/O/W-type), such as a cream or a milk, a vesicular dispersion, in the form of an ointment, a gel, a solid tube stick or an aerosol mousse. The emulsions can also contain anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants.

Regarding the kind of the topical composition and the preparation of the topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations as well as for further suitable additives, it can be referred to the pertinent literature, e.g. to Novak G.A., Die kosmetischen Praparate - Band 2, Die kosmetischen Praparate - Rezeptur, Rohstoffe, wissenschaftliche Grundlagen (Verlag fϋr Chem. Industrie H. Ziolkowski KG, Augsburg).

The topical compositions of the present invention is preferably applied at least once per day, e.g. twice or triple times a day.

The composition according to the invention can also contain one or more additional pharmaceutically or cosmetically active ingredient, in particular for skin lightening, tanning prevention, treatment of hyperpigmentation, preventing or reducing acne, wrinkles, lines, atrophy, inflammation, as well as topical anesthetics, antimicrobial agents, and antifungal agents, chelators and sequestrants; anti-cellulites agents and sunscreening additives.

Examples of such ingredients are peptides (e.g., Matrixyl™ [pentapeptide derivative]), oligopeptides, wax-based synthetic peptides (e.g., octyl palmitate and tribehenin and sorbitan isostearate and palmitoyl-oligopeptide), glycerol, urea, guanidine (e.g. amino guanidine); vitamins and derivatives thereof such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (e.g., retinoid derivatives such as retinyl palmitate or retinyl propionate), vitamin E (e.g., tocopherol acetate), vitamin B₃ (e.g. niacinamide) and vitamin B₅ (e.g. panthenol), vitamin B₆ and vitamin B₁₂, biotin, folic acid; anti-acne actives or medicaments (e.g. resorcinol, salicylic acid, and the like); antioxidants (e.g. phytosterols, lipoic acid); flavonoids (e.g. isoflavones, phytoestrogens); skin soothing and healing agents such as aloe vera extract, allantoin and the like; agents suitable for aesthetic purposes such as essential oils, fragrances, skin sensates, opacifiers, aromatic compounds (e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, and eugenol), desquamatory actives, hydroxy acids such as AHA acids, radical scavengers, farnesol, antifungal actives in particular bisabolol, alkyldiols such as 1 ,2-pentanediol, hexanediol or 1 ,2-octanediol, phytol, polyols such as phytanetriol, ceramides and pseudoceramides, amino acids, protein hydrolysates, polyunsaturated fatty acids, plant extracts like kinetin, DNA or RNA and their fragmentation products, carbohydrates, conjugated fatty acids, camitin, carnosine, biochinonen, phytofluen, phytoen, and their corresponding derivatives.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, the retinyl biotinates, particularly all- trans retinyl D-biotinate can be used in combination with one or more agents selected from skin lightening agents and UV screening agents. Accordingly, the present invention is also concerned with novel topical compositions, in particularly for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purpose, comprising a retinyl biotinate, particularly all-trans retinyl D- biotinate and at least one additional skin lightening agent and/or a UV screening agent. The use of combinations of skin lightening agents may be advantageous in that they may provide skin lightening benefit through different mechanisms. Examples of additional, other skin lightening agents, which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention are especially those disclosed in WO 2004/062635, WO 2004/037213, and DE 102 38 449.

Preferably, the additional skin lightening agent comprises a water soluble skin lightening agent selected from ascorbic acid compounds, vitamin B₃ compounds, azelaic acid, gallic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, mulberry extract, and mixtures thereof. In one preferred embodiment, a combination of ascorbic acid compounds and vitamin B₃ compounds are used. Skin lightening agents herein include ascorbic acid compounds, vitamin B₃ compounds, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxyanisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizinic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, mulberry extract, and mixtures thereof. The type and amount of skin lightening agents are selected so that the inclusion of a specific agent does not affect the stability of the composition. For example, while water-soluble agents are preferable from a composition stability point of view, water- insoluble agents may also be included to the extent it can be dispersed with the carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer and or optional lower alkyl alcohol carrier, and thus does not affect the stability of the present composition. The term "water soluble" with regard to skin lightening agents herein, relate to compounds that are completely dissolved to make a transparent solution when dissolved in ample amount of water at ambient temperature. Ascorbic acid compounds useful herein include, ascorbic acid per se in the L-form, ascorbic acid salt, and derivatives thereof. Ascorbic acid salts useful herein include, sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts. Ascorbic acid derivatives useful herein includes, for example, esters of ascorbic acid, and ester salts of ascorbic acid. Particularly preferred ascorbic acid compounds include 2-O-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, which is an ester of ascorbic acid and glucose and usually referred to as L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside or ascorbyl glucoside, and its metal salts, and L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester salts such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, potassium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and calcium ascorbyl phosphate. Commercially available ascorbic compounds include: magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, 2-O-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid, and sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate.

Preferably, the ascorbic acid derivative for use in accordance with the present invention may by any non-toxic, non skin-irritating water-soluble or oil-soluble ascorbic acid derivative. Examples of such oil soluble derivatives are ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl linoleate, ascorbyl octanoate. Preferred are water soluble ascorbyl derivatives such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside. The amount of ascorbic acid derivative in the skin care product for use in accordance with the present invention is suitably in the range from about 0.1 wt.-% to about 5 wt.-%.

Vitamin B₃ compounds useful herein include, for example, niacinamide and nicotinyl alcohols, derivatives thereof; and salts thereof. Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B₃ compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide. Preferred vitamin B₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate, and more preferred is niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B₃ compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably substantially free of salts of a vitamin B₃ compound. Preferably the vitamin B₃ compound contains less than about 50% of such salt, and is more preferably essentially free of the salt form.

Vitamin A acetate or palmitate may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.01 wt.-% to about 1.00 wt.-%. A vitamin E derivative for use in the present invention is tocopheryl acetate. Tocopheryl acetate may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 5 wt.-%. Another vitamine E derivative of interest is tocopheryl linoleate. Tocopheryl linoleate may be present in the topical composition in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 5 wt.-%.

Examples of vitamins from the B complex for use in the topical compositions of the invention are vitamin B₃, B₆ and biotin. Vitamin B₃ may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.01 wt-% to about 1.00 wt.-%. Vitamin B₆ may be present in an amount from about 0.01 wt-% to about 1.00 wt.-%. Biotin may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.001 wt.-% to about 0.5 wt.-%.

Panthenol may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 5.00 wt.-%. Phytantriol may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.01 wt.-% to about 2.5 wt.-%. Bisabolol may be present in the topical compositions in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 5.00 wt.-%.

Further skin lightening agents which may be used in compositions of the present invention in combination with a retinyl biotinate, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate are

Bis-pantoyl-cystamine;

Kojic acid or derivatives thereof, which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 5 wt.-%;

Arbutin or derivatives thereof which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 5 wt.-%;

Hydroquinone or derivatives thereof which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from about 0.05 wt.-% to about 2 wt.-%;

Phyllanthus Emblica fruit extract (trade name: Emblica™), which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from 0.05 wt.-% to about 3 wt.-%;

Leucocyte extract, which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from 0.05 wt.-% to about 3 wt.-%;

Bearberry extract, which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from 0.05 wt.-% to about 3 wt.-%; Licorice extract, which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from 0.05 wt.-% to about 3 wt.-%; and

Mulberry extract, which may be present in the topical compositions of the present invention in an amount from 0.05 wt.-% to about 3 wt.-%.

A safe and effective amount of a desquamation active may be added to the compositions of the present invention, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, by weight of the composition. Desquamation actives enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. One desquamation system that is suitable for use herein contains sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,681 ,852. Another desquamation system that is suitable for use herein contains salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,652,228. Zwitterionic surfactants such as described in these applications are also useful as desquamatory agents herein, with cetyl betaine being particularly preferred.

According to the invention for preparing the compositions the active ingredients can be used as such or in an encapsulated form, for example in a liposomal form. Liposomes are preferably formed with lecithins with or without addition of sterols or phytosterols. The encapsulation of the active ingredients can be alone or together with other active ingredients. Other embodiments include solid or semisolid capsules aiming to protect the retinoid from degradation or for controlled delivery. Suitable encapsulation technologies are for example described in WO 0180823, WO 9903450, WO 9317784 or in Fragrance Journal (2001 ), 29(2), 83-90.

Additionally the topical composition of the present invention may contain UV-screening agents. The additional UV-screening agents are advantageously selected from IR, UV-A, UV-B, UV-C and/ or broadband filters. Examples of UV-B or broad spectrum screening agents, i.e. substances having absorption maximums between about 290 nm and 340 nm may be organic or inorganic compounds. Organic UV-B or broadband screening agents are e.g., acrylates such as 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene, PARSOL^® 340), ethyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate and the like; camphor derivatives such as 4-methyl benzylidene camphor (PARSOL^® 5000), 3-benzylidene camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, sulfo benzylidene camphor, sulphomethyl benzylidene camphor, therephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid and the like; Cinnamate derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL^® MCX), ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate, diethanolamine methoxycinnamate

(PARSOL^® Hydro), isoamyl methoxycinnamate and the like as well as cinnamic acid derivatives bond to siloxanes; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethylaminobenzoate, N-oxypropylenated ethyl p-aminobenzoate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate; benzophenones such as benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, 2,2',4,4¹-tetrahydroxy-benzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone and the like; esters of benzalmalonic acid such as di-(2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate; esters of 2-(4-ethoxy-anilinomethylene)propandioic acid such as 2-(4-ethoxy anilinomethylene) propandioic acid diethyl ester as described in the European Patent Publication EP 0895 776; organosiloxane compounds containing benzmalonate groups as described in the European Patent Publications EP 0358584 B1 , EP 0538431 B1 and EP 0709080 A1 such as PARSOL^® SLX; drometrizole trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL); imidazole derivatives such as e.g. 2-phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid and its salts (PARSOL^®HS). Salts of 2-phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid are e.g. alkali salts such as sodium- or potassium salts, ammonium salts, morpholine salts, salts of primary, sec. and tert. amines like monoethanolamine salts, diethanolamine salts and the like; salicylate derivatives such as isopropylbenzyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, butyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate (PARSOL^® EHS, Neo Heliopan OS), isooctyl salicylate or homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate, PARSOL^® HMS, Neo Heliopan HMS) and the like; triazine derivatives such as ethylhexyl triazone (Uvinul T-150), diethylhexyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb HEB) and the like. Encapsulated UV-filters such as encapsulated ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (Eusolex UV-pearls) or microcapsules loaded with UV-filters as e.g. dislosed in EP 1471995 and the like;

Examples of broad spectrum or UV A screening agents i.e. substances having absorption maximums between about 320 nm and 400 nm may be organic or inorganic compounds. Organic broad spectrum or UV A screening agents include e.g. dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-tert.-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (PARSOL^® 1789), dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, isopropyldibenzoylmethane and the like; benzotriazole derivatives such as 2,2'-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-4- (1 ,1 ,3,3,-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol (Tinosorb M) and the like; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S) and the like; phenylene-1 ,4-bis-benzimidazolsulfonic acids or salts such as 2,2-(1 ,4-phenylene)bis-(1 H-benzimidazol-4,6-disulfonic acid) (Neoheliopan AP); amino substituted hydroxybenzophenones such as 2-(4-Diethylamino- 2-hydroxy-benzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester (Uvinul A plus) as described in the European Patent Publication EP 1046391 ; Ionic UV-A filters as described in the International Patent Publication WO2005080341 A1 ; As dibenzoylmethane derivatives have limited photostability it may be desirable to photostabilize these UV-A screening agents. Thus, the term "conventional UV-A screening agent" also refers to dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as e.g. PARSOL^® 1789 stabilized by, e.g. 3,3-Diphenylacrylate derivatives as described in the European Patent Publications EP 0 514 491 B1 and EP 0 780 119 A1 ; Benzylidene camphor derivatives as described in the US Patent No. 5,605,680; Organosiloxanes containing benzmalonate groups as described in the European Patent Publications EP 0358584 B1 , EP 0538431 B1 and EP 0709080 A1.

A good overview of UV-A- and UV-B screening agents which can be added to the compositions of the present invention can also be found in DE-A 103 27 432. All UV-filter compounds disclosed in this document are also useful as components for the compositions of the present invention and are included herein by reference.

A safe and effective amount of the UV-screening agent is used, typically from about 1 wt. -% to about 20 wt.-%, more typically from about 2 wt.-% to about 10 wt.-%.

Other suitable UV-screening agents which may be incorporated into the topical compositions of the present invention are inorganic pigments such as microparticulated metal oxides (e.g. PARSOL^® TX). Examples of such compounds include e.g. titanium dioxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 100 nm, zinc oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 150 nm, zirconium oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 150 nm, iron oxide having an average primary particle size of from about 15 nm to about 500 nm, and mixtures thereof. The metal oxide particles may also be coated by metal oxides such as e.g. aluminum or zirconium oxides or by organic coatings such as e.g. polyols, methicone, aluminum stearate, alkyl silane. Such coatings are well known in the art. When used herein, the inorganic sunscreens are present in the amount of from about 0.1 wt.-% to about 20 wt.-%, preferably from about 0.5 wt.-% to about 10 wt.-%, more preferably from about 1wt.-% to about 5 wt.-%.

The following Examples are illustrative but not limitative of the invention.

Example 1

D-Biotin (2.44 g, 10 mmol, 1.0 eq.) was suspended in DMF (100 mL) under Argon and yellow light. To the white suspension were added HOBt (1-Hydroxybenzotriazol hydrate) (1.89 g, 12 mmol, 1.2 eq.), EDC (N-Ethyl-N'-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)-carbodiimid HCI) (2.30 g, 12 mmol, 1.2 eq.) and triethylamine (3.83 g, 20 mmol, 2.0 eq). The reaction solution stirred for 30 min at room temperature, then all-trans retinol (2.86 g, 10 mmol, 1.0 eq.), dissolved in DMF (30 ml_), was added and the solution stirred at room temperature over night. The solvent was evaporated under reduced pressure and the oily residue was dried under high vacuum at room temperature. The residue was suspended in ethyl acetate (100 mL) and washed three times with an aqueous solution of water (100 mL each). The organic layer was dried over sodium sulfate, filtered and the solvent was evaporated under reduced pressure to give 4.01 g orange-brownish solid. The crude was purified by flash chromatography first using acetone/ethyl acetate (1 :1) to separate the unpolar impurities and then using acetone/ethyl acetate (8:2) to eluate the product. 1.21 g of an orange solid were isolated. 0.85 g of this product was dissolved for recrystallisation in ethyl acetate (5 mL) and n-hexane (5 mL) and stored at -3O⁰C. The crystals were filtrated and washed with pentane to yield all-trans retinyl D-biotinate as a yellow powder (0.50 g, 10%). - R_f (acetone/n-hexane (8:2)) = 0.25-0.50. - ¹H NMR (DMSO-d6) δ = 1.00 (s, 6H)₁ 1.18-1.55 (m, 10H), 1.68 (s, 3H), 1.85 (s, 3H), 1.93 (s, 3H), 1.98-2.00 (m, 2H), 2.28-2.31 (m, 2H), 2.50-2.56 (m, 2H), 2.80-2.85 (m, 1 H), 3.06-3.12 (m, 1 H), 4.11-4.14 (m, 1 H), 4.28-4.32 (m, 1 H), 4.38-4.43 (m, 1 H), 4.68-4.71 (m, 2H)₁ 5.59-5.64 (m, 1 H), 6.14- 6.20 (m, 2H), 6.30-6.43 (m, 2H), 6.62-6.71 (m, 1 H). - MS (El) m/z = 530.5 (36) [M+NH₄ ⁺], 513.5 (34) [M+H⁺].

Example 2

The usefulness of retinyl biotinates, particularly all-trans retinyl D-biotinate in reducing melanin production in the skin and, thus, to act as a depigmentation, i.e., skin lightening agent, can be shown by in vitro measuring the total intracellular melanin production in human primary melanocytes from skin type IV in which intrinsic melanin production is high.

Culture of human melanocytes

Normal human melanocytes were cultured from freshly excised foreskin of skin type IV and treated with Dispase (ready-to-use, Roche) overnight at 4°C. Melanocytes dissociated from the epidermis were plated in culture flasks at high density using Melanocyte Growth Medium M2 (Promocell) supplemented with the corresponding growth factors (Promocell). These primary cells were cultivated under 100% humidity and 5% CO₂ at 37⁰C. At the second passage, melanocytes were transferred to 6 well plates and allowed to reach 80% surface confluence. Depigmentation of Human Primary Melanocytes

Cells were grown for 4 days in Melanocyte Growth Medium supplemented with all-trans retinyl D-biotinate in known non-toxic concentrations (0.05 mM and 0.39 mM). Medium was renewed on day two of the experiment. Cells were harvested, counted and lysed in 1 N NaOH using vigorous vortexing and a 30 minute incubation in an ultrasound bath. Melanin content was determined by measuring the absorption of cell lysates at 475 nm. Values were calibrated against a standard curve based on synthetic melanin (Sigma). The amount of melanin per 1 million cells is reported. Each treatment was run in duplicate. All-trans retinyl D-biotinate reduced intracellular melanin content compared to the control as can be seen from Table 1. Melanin content in untreated cells is on average 6.68 μg per million cells, compared to 2.27 and 0.83 for those treated with 0.05 mM and 0.39 mM all- trans retinyl D-biotinate, respectively. In the higher concentration, all-trans retinyl D- biotinate thus reduced mean melanin content by 66 %.

Table 1

Rb: all-trans retinyl D-biotinate

The following examples are concerned with topical formulations which may be prepared by procedures known per se in the art.

Example 3

Skin Liqhteninq Cream (C7W)

Inqredients % (w/w)

Estol 3650 (Glyceryl Myristate) 5.00

Lanette 16 (Cetyl Alcohol) 2.00

Amphisol A (Cetyl Phosphate) 2.00

Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) 10.00

Vitamin E Acetate (Tocopherol Acetate) 0.50

Almond Oil 2.00

BHT 0.05

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.60

Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben &

Isopropylparaben)

Tris (Tromethamine) 0.90

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10 Propylene Glycol 5.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.50

Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide & C13-14 lsoparaffin & 2.00

Laureth-7)

Triethanolamine q.s.

Water deionized ad 100

Example 4

Skin Lightening Cream (ONSI)

Ingredients % (w/w)

Estol 3650 (Glyceryl Myristate) 5.00

Lanette 16 (Cetyl Alcohol) 2.00

Brij 72 (Steareth-2) 2.00

Brij 721 (Steareth-21) 2.00

Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) 10.00

Bisabolol 0.20

Vitamine E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) 1.00

Almond Oil 2.00

BHT 0.05

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.60

Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben &

Isopropylparaben)

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

Propylene Glycol 10.00

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 1.00

Arbutin 1.00

D-Panthenol 0.50

Niacinamide 0.20

Salicylic acid 0.50

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 1.00

Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide & C13-14 lsoparaffin & 2.00

Laureth-7)

Triethanolamine q.s.

Water deionized ad 100

Example 5 Skin lightening cream with UV protection (indicative SPF: 8. Q7W)

Ingredients % (w/w)

Estol 3650 (Glyceryl Myristate) 5.00

Lanette 16 (Cetyl Alcohol) 2.00

Brij 72 (steareth-2) 2.00

Brij 721 (steareth-21) 2.00

Tegosoft M (Isopropyl Myristate) 10.00

BHT 0.05

Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.50

Parsol 1789 (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) 1.00 Parsol MCX (Ethyl Hexylmethoxycinnamate 2.00

Eusolex OS (Octyl Salicylate) 2.00

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.60

Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben &

Isopropylparaben)

EDETA BD (Disodium EDETA) 0.10

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.30

Propyleneglycol 8.00

Sepigel 2.00

Triethanolamine q.s.

Water deionized ad 100

Example 6

Skin Liαhteninα Cream (W/O)

Inqredients % (w/w)

Cremophor WO7 (PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) 6.00

Elfacos ST 9 (PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) 2.00

Myritol 318 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 5.00

Lunacera M (Micro wax) 2.00

Paraffin Oil 10.00

Resveratrol 0.50

Phytantriol 0.10

Vitamine E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) 1.00

Jojoba Oil 5.00

BHT 0.05

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.60

Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben &

Isopropylparaben)

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

D-Panthenol 0.50

Propylene Glycol 5.00

Kojic Acid 1.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 1.00

Water deionized Ad 100

Example 7 Skin Liαhteninα Gel

Inαredients % (w/w)

Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.80

Crosspolymer)

Biotin 0.01

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

D- Panthenol 0.20

Hyasol BT (Sodium Hyaluronate) 1.00

Euxyl K 400 (Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile & 0.20

Phenoxyethanol)

NaOH (30%) 1.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00

Epigallocatechin Gallate 0.50

Genistein 0.10

Niacinamide 0.50

Emblica (Phyllanthus Emblica fruit extract) 0.50

Hydroquinone 0.20

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.10

Citric Acid (10%) q.s.

Water deionized ad 100

Example 8

Skin Liqhteninα Lotion

Inqredients % (w/w)

Propylene Glycol 5.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 1.00

D-Panthenol 0.50

Sodium PCA 0.25

Ethanol 10.00

Citric Acid (10%) q.s.

Water deionized Ad 100

Example 9

Skin liqhteninq cream with UV protection (indicative SPF: 8 , 0/W)

Inqredients % (w/w)

PARSOL SLX (Dimethico Diethylbenzalmalonate) 8.00

Uvinul Titanium Dioxide (Titanium Dioxide) 2.00

Tegosoft TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 5.00

Silicone 2503 Cosmetic Wax (Stearyl Dimethicone) 2.00

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) 0.05

Estol GMM 3650 (Glyceryl Myristate) 4.00

Edeta BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.60

Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben)

AMPHISOL K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) 2.00

Carbopol 980 (Carbomer) 10.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.50

Propylene Glycol 5.00

KOH sol. 10% 0.50

Water deionized ad 100 Example 10

Skin Lightening Gel

Ingredients % (w/w)

Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.80

Crosspolymer)

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

D- Panthenol 0.10

Hyasol BT (Sodium Hyaluronate) 1.00

Euxyl K 400 (Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile & 0.20

Phenoxyethanol)

NaOH (30%) 1.00

Propylene Glycol 5.00

Melawhite (Water and Leucocyte extract) 1.00

Kojic Acid 0.50

Niacinamide 0.50

Hydroquinone 0.50

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 1.00

Citric Acid (10%) q.s.

Water deionized Ad 100

Example 11 Skin Lightening Gel

Ingredients % (w/w)

Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.80

Crosspolymer)

Biotin 0.01

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

D- Panthenol 0.10

Hyasol BT (Sodium Hyaluronate) 1.00

Euxyl K 400 (Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile & 0.20

Phenoxyethanol)

NaOH (30%) 1.00

Propylene Glycol 5.00

Melfade (Water and Glycerin and Bearberry extract) 1.00

Kojic Acid 0.50

Niacinamide 0.50

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.50

Citric Acid (10%) q.s.

Water deionized Ad 100 Example 12

Skin Lightening Gel

Ingredients % (w/w)

Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylate/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.80

Crosspolymer)

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

D- Panthenol 0.10

Hyasol BT (Sodium Hyaluronate) 1.00

Euxyl K 400 (Methyldibromo Glutaronitrile & 0.20

Phenoxyethanol)

NaOH (30%) 1.00

Propylene Glycol 10.00

Licorice extract 0.50

Mulberry extract 0.50

Kojic Acid 0.50

Niacinamide 0.50

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.30

Citric Acid (10%) q.s.

Water deionized ad 100

Example 13 Skin Lightening Gel

Ingredients % (w/w)

Carbopol ETD 2020 (Carbomer) 0.80

Panthenol 0.50

Niacinamide 0.10

NaOH (30%) 0.50

Ethanol 35.00

Propylene Glycol 8.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.10

Water deionized ad 100

Example 14

Skin lightening cream with UV protection (indicative SPF: 8. O/W)

Ingredients % w / w

Parsol 1789 (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.50

Uvinul Titanium Dioxide (Titanium Dioxide) 3.00

Parsol MCX (Ethyl Hexylmethoxycinnamate) 4.00

Tegosoft TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) 8.00 Silicone 2503 Cosmetic Wax (Stearyl Dimethicone) 2.00

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT) 0.05

Estol GMM 3650 (Glyceryl Myristate) 4.00

Edeta BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.60 Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben)

AMPHISOL K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) 2.00

Carbopol 980 (Carbomer) 10.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 1.00

Propylene Glycol 5.00

KOH sol. 10% 0.50

Water deionized ad 100

Example 15

Skin lightening cream with UV protection (indicative SPF: 10. O/W)

Ingredients % w / w

PARSOL SLX (Polysilicone 15) 6.00

PARSOL 1789 (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) 2.00

Parsol MCX (Ethyl Hexylmethoxycinnamate) 4.00

Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides) 2.00

Glyceryl Myristate 4.00

Myritol 318 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 7.00

Cosmacol ESI (Tridecyl Salicylate) 8.00

VITAMIN E ACETATE (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.50 Phenonip (Phenoxyethanol & Methylparaben & 0.80 Ethylparaben & Propylparaben & Butylparaben

AMPHISOL K (Potassium Cetyl Phosphate) 2.00

1 ,2-Propylene Glycol (Propylene Glycol) 5.00 Carbopol ETD 2020 (Acrylate/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.30 Crosspolymer)

Edeta BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10

KOH 10% sol.( Potassium Hydroxide) 1.60

STAY-C 50 (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) 1.00

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.30

Retinyl Palmitate 0.50

VITAMIN E (Tocopherol) 0.10

Water deionized ad 100

Example 16

Skin lightening liguid soap

Inαredients % W / W

Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 40.00

Tego Betain L7 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 10.00

Lamepon S (Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolysed 5.00

Collagen)

Plantaren 1200 (Lauryl Glucoside) 5.00

Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 3.00

Preservative q.s.

Polymer JR 400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.20

Panthenol 75 L (Panthenol) 0.40

All-trans retinyl D-biotinate 0.30

EDETA BD (Disodium EDTA) 0.10 Vitamine E Acetate (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.30

Cremophor RH 40 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor 2.00

Oil)

Sodium Chloride 1.00

Water deionized ad 100

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. Retinyl biotinates.

2. All-trans retinyl D-biotinate.

3. Topical compositions comprising a retinyl biotinate and a conventional carrier.

4. A skin lightening composition comprising a retinyl biotinate and a carrier conventionally used in topical formulations.

5. A composition as in claims 3 or 4 wherein the retinyl biotinate is present in a concentration of from about 0.001 wt. % to about 50 wt. % based on the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition as in claim 5 wherein the retinyl biotinate is present in a concentration of from about 0.01 wt. % to about 5.0 wt. %, most preferably from about 0.05 wt. % to about 1.0 wt. % based on the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition as in any one of claims 3 to 6 wherein the retinyl biotinate is all-trans retinyl D-biotinate.

8. The use of retinyl biotinates as a medicament.

9. The use of retinyl biotinates in the manufacture of a topical composition for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, for lightening of human skin, against unwanted pigmentation of human skin and/or for the treatment of pigmentation disorders, and for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss.

10. The use as in claim 9 for lightening of human skin.

11. The use as in claim 9 or 10 wherein the retinyl biotinate is all-trans retinyl D-biotinate.

12. A method for treating or preventing any symptoms caused by negative developments of the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin, for lightening of human skin, for preventing unwanted pigmentation of human skin, for the treatment of pigmentation disorders, and for the promotion of hair growth and protection from hair loss, which comprises administering an effective amount of a retinyl biotinate to the skin of an individual in need of such treatment.

13. The method as in claim 12 which is for lightening of human skin.