WO2007029983A1 - Cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum containing catechins and flavonols - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum containing catechins and flavonols Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007029983A1
WO2007029983A1 PCT/KR2006/003572 KR2006003572W WO2007029983A1 WO 2007029983 A1 WO2007029983 A1 WO 2007029983A1 KR 2006003572 W KR2006003572 W KR 2006003572W WO 2007029983 A1 WO2007029983 A1 WO 2007029983A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
extract
flavonols
catechins
biota orientalis
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PCT/KR2006/003572
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Jeong Ki Kim
Hyun Jung Shin
Jong Chan Lee
Si Young Cho
Byeong Gon Lee
Ih Seop Chang
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Amorepacific Corporation
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Publication date
Priority claimed from KR1020050083666A external-priority patent/KR101149686B1/en
Priority claimed from KR1020060024905A external-priority patent/KR101252554B1/en
Application filed by Amorepacific Corporation filed Critical Amorepacific Corporation
Publication of WO2007029983A1 publication Critical patent/WO2007029983A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9755Gymnosperms [Coniferophyta]
    • A61K8/9767Pinaceae [Pine family], e.g. pine or cedar
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum, which comprises catechins and flavonols contained in green tea leaves. More particularly, the cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention comprises catechins and kaempferol contained in green tea leaves, and thus shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum by reducing the activity of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor isoform gamma (PPAR- ⁇ ), as well as an excellent effect of alleviating acne conditions. Additionally, it is possible to obtain a synergic effect of suppressing sebum through the use of the above components contained in green tea leaves in combination with Biota orientalis extract. [Background Art]
  • sebum functions to maintain skin moisture or to prevent attack of microorganisms in the skin including head and face, it enhances acne conditions after puberty. Particularly, in cases of women after their thirties, over- secretion of sebum may cause greasy skin, loose makeup and enlargement of skin pores. Such sebum is secreted in the sebaceous gland positioned in the pilosebaceous duct of skin, and reaches the skin surface through the hair follicle duct. Presence of an excessive amount of sebum on the skin causes an unpleasant skin condition, also known as "oily skin.”
  • Oily skin is represented by a greasy skin condition, and such conditions become severe more and more with the lapse of time. Therefore, there has been a need for a cosmetic agent for reducing synthesis of sebum caused by the sebaceous gland and for minimizing oily and greasy conditions on the skin, particularly on the oily type skin or complex type skin.
  • Cosmetics for suppressing sebum that are currently used comprise porous powder for adsorbing sebum or contain medicinal herb extract, such as ivy extract, known to suppress sebum.
  • such cosmetics cannot provide a sufficient effect.
  • peroxisome proliferator activated receptors are known nuclear hormone receptors having the three isoforms of ⁇ , ⁇ / ⁇ and ⁇ .
  • Peroxisome proliferator activated receptor isoform ⁇ has been identified first based on the mechanism of controlling genes encoding fatty acid oxidase by the reaction with a peroxisome proliferator factor such as a fibric acid derivative (Issemann and Green, Nature, 1990, 347: 645-650). Additionally, it is disclosed that fatty acids play an important role in tissues expressed by PPAR- ⁇ (Leone et al., Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA, 1999, 96: 7473-7478).
  • Lipid activators of PPAR- ⁇ such as linoleic acid, etc.
  • PPAR- ⁇ agonists increase insulin sensitivity and decrease glucose and insulin in a recent animal model test. This indicates that PPAR- ⁇ may be applied to treatment of diabetes mellitus or a part of complications thereof (Ricote M., Nature, 1998, 391: 79-82).
  • PPAR- ⁇ affects maturation of sebocyte in the sebaceous gland
  • PPAR- ⁇ affects maturation of sebocyte in the sebaceous gland
  • WO2003/068205 discloses foods for preventing metabolic diseases, such as hypertension or hypercholesterolemia, by way of PPAR- ⁇ and PPAR- ⁇ agonists.
  • PPAR- ⁇ antagonists there is no disclosure for PPAR- ⁇ antagonists, and such food compositions are limited in their use for preventing metabolic diseases.
  • Biota orientalis refers to seeds of Thuja orientalis that belongs to
  • Biota orientalis is obtained by removing impurities, husk and hulls from the seeds, steaming them, and drying them with the sunlight. Biota orientalis has a light yellow or yellowish white color in a fresh state, but undergoes a change in color to a yellowish brown color while discharging oil therefrom. Generally, Biota orientalis is collected from Shangdong, Yunnan, Henan and Hebei in the China. The seeds of Biota orientalis contain about 15% of fatty oil and a small amount of essence and saponin, and have been used as an anti-inflammatory agent, a sedative for treating anxiety and compulsive disorder, a constipation-treating agent and a depilation-treating agent.
  • Korean Patent No. 2000-58768 discloses a composition for preventing and treating sebum-related diseases, which comprises Biota orientalis extract.
  • Korean Patent No. 2002-48073 discloses a composition for suppressing sebum secretion and for preventing and treating acne conditions by using Biota orientalis having an effect of inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase.
  • Korean Patent No. 2003-86404 discloses a medicinal herb composition for preventing or treating skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis and psoriasis, which comprises Biota orientalis as a constitutional element.
  • all the above compositions are problematic in terms of availability, skin irritation and others.
  • the present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems occurring in the prior art.
  • the inventors of the present invention have conducted many studies to search for elements having an effect of suppressing sebum generation by reducing activity of PPAR- ⁇ that affects maturation of sebocytes in the sebaceous gland, and have found that a cosmetic composition comprising catechins and flavonols contained in green tea leaves can suppress sebum generation and alleviate acne conditions.
  • the present invention is based on this finding. Additionally, we have found that when the above elements contained in green tea leaves are used in a cosmetic composition in combination with extract of Biota orientalis having a low concentration, the cosmetic composition provides a high effect of suppressing sebum secretion while not causing any side effects on the skin.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum generation and for alleviating acne conditions.
  • a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum which comprises catechins and flavonols as active ingredients.
  • the cosmetic composition may further comprise extract of Biota orientalis.
  • the cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention is very safe and shows an excellent effect of reducing sebum secretion, and thus is useful for preventing or treating sebum-related diseases including acne, seborrheic dermatitis, skin pore enlargement caused by acne, or the like.
  • FIG. 1 is a graph showing the effect of suppressing sebum generation obtained from various mixtures of the elements contained in green tea leaves with extract of Biota orientalis in primarily cultured sebocytes;
  • FIG. 2 is a graph showing the interaction between extract of green tea leaves to extract of Biota orientalis based on the results of the experiment carried out for calculating the optimal mixing ratio between both types of extract;
  • FIG. 3 is a contour plot illustrating the optimal mixing ratio of extract of green tea leaves to extract of Biota orientalis.
  • FIG. 4 is a photograph demonstrating the effect of suppressing growth of the sebaceous gland obtained from the mixture of extract of green tea leaves with extract of Biota orientalis in an animal model using hamsters. [Best Mode]
  • the cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum comprises catechins and flavonols as active ingredients, and thus shows an excellent of suppressing sebum generation by reducing activity of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor gamma (PPAR- ⁇ ) and an effect of alleviating acne conditions.
  • PPAR- ⁇ peroxisome proliferator activated receptor gamma
  • Such catechins contained in green tea leaves include (-)EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), (-)GCG (gallocatechin gallate), (-)ECG (epicatechin gallate), (-)CG (catechin gallate), (-)EGC (epigallocatechin), (-)GC (gallocatechin), (-)EC (epicatechin), (+)EC (epicatechin), (-)CA (catechin), (+)CA (catechin), or the like.
  • flavonols include quercetin, kaempferol, myricetin, or the like. Kaempferol is preferred.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the above active ingredients each in an amount of 0.001 ⁇ 30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. If each active ingredient is used in an amount less than 0.001 wt%, it is not possible to provide a sufficient effect. On the other hand, if each active ingredient is used in an amount more than 30 wt%, formulation of the cosmetic composition is difficult. Also, the combined weight of the green tea catechins with flavonols is preferably 30 wt% or less.
  • the mixing ratio of green tea catechins to flavonols may be varied with the particular formulation of the composition, the mixing ratio is preferably 1:0.1 ⁇ 10 (green tea catechins:flavonols).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention reduces the activity of PPAR- ⁇ , and thus shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum generation and alleviating acne conditions.
  • reporter gene assay One of the known methods for determining PPAR activation by observing PPAR activation/inactivation is reporter gene assay (Kliewer et. al., Nature, 1992, 358: 771-774).
  • the reporter gene assay includes cloning a base sequence containing a promoter of interest and reporter genes, and injecting the base sequence into eukaryotic cells to activate transcription and to control the expression of a protein. Herein, protein expression increases as the promoter is activated.
  • the reporter gene used for the first time is CAT (chloramphenicol acetyltransferase) gene. Recently, luciferase gene has been used widely. In the present invention, a Dual-Luciferase Reporter Assay System Kit available from Promega Co. was used.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises extract of Biota orientalis in addition to the green tea extract containing catechins and flavonols.
  • the extract of Biota orientalis used in the present invention is obtained by removing husk and hulls from the seeds of Thuja orientalis that belongs to Cupressaceae, steaming them, drying them with the sunlight, and extracting the dried product.
  • the Biota orientalis extract is used preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. If the extract is used in an amount less than 0.001 wt%, it is not possible to obtain a sufficient effect. On the other hand, if the extract is used in an amount more than 30 wt%, formulation of the cosmetic composition is difficult.
  • the green tea extract comprises at least 1% of catechins and at least 0.1% of flavonols.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be any skin adhesion type cosmetic formulation, such as lotion, skin toner, nourishing toner, nourishing cream, massage cream, pack, gel, essence, or the like.
  • CV-I cells (ATCC CCL 70), i.e. monkey kidney epithelial cell line, were subcultured in a DMEM medium containing 10% bovine fetal serum treated with charcoal/dextrin. A phenol red-free medium was used to avoid the effect of estrogen upon phenol red.
  • plasmids used were plasmids having PPRE (PPARs responsive element) as a promoter, followed by firefly luciferase genes as a reporter, the PPRE being activated by PPAR- (gene-containing PPAR- and ligand-bound PPAR-) bound next to the universal promoter expressed under general culture conditions, and a reference plasmid to which renilla luciferase genes were bound.
  • PPRE PPARs responsive element
  • CV-I cells were plated on a 24-well microtiter plate at a concentration of 5X10 4 cells per well and cultured for 24 hours. Then, the above three types of plasmid genes were subjected to transient transfection by using a TransFast Kit available from Promega Co. After the cultured product was washed with PBS (phosphate buffered saline) once, the product was treated with a suitable concentration of sample materials, cultured again for 24 hours, and washed with PBS two times. Next, the cells were lysed with PLB (passive lysis buffer, Promega) once, and determined for luciferase activity by using a Dual-Luciferase Reporter Assay System Kit (Promega) in the samples and the controls.
  • PLB phosphate buffered saline
  • catechins and kaempferol show an excellent effect of inhibiting PPAR- ⁇ activity.
  • +++ a significant drop in sebum secretion and an excellent effect of improving skin conditions.
  • compositions of Examples 1 ⁇ 5 comprising kaempferol and mixed catechins including gallocatechin gallate according to the present invention show a higher effect of suppressing sebum generation and alleviating acne conditions as compared to the composition comprising kaempferol alone.
  • sebocytes were subjected to primary culture.
  • the sebocytes were extracted from the sebaceous gland attached to hair follicles with the aid of a hospital in partnership.
  • pieces of hair follicles were treated with 3 unit/ml of dipase at 4 ° C for 20 hours to isolate epidermis therefrom.
  • the epidermis was treated with 0.02% dioxyribonuclease at 37 ° C for 15 minutes, and the sebaceous gland was finely cut.
  • the isolated sebocyte lobules were cultured together with mitomycin C-inactivated 3T3 cells.
  • the medium used in the culture was a DMEM:F12(3:1) medium further comprising 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS), 10ng/ml of human recombinant epidermal growth factor (EGF), 10ng/ml of keratinocyte growth factor (KGF), 10 to 9M cholera toxin (Sigma), 2mN Glutamax (20OmM stock, Gibco), and lO ⁇ g/ml of Gentamycin (Amresco). Passage number of the sebocytes used in this test was limited to 4 or less (ref. J. Invest. Dermatol, 110: 84-89, 1998).
  • FBS fetal bovine serum
  • EGF human recombinant epidermal growth factor
  • KGF keratinocyte growth factor
  • Amresco Gentamycin
  • Step 2 Differentiation of sebocytes and treatment with sample Differentiation of the sebocytes in culture was induced by varying the composition of the culture medium. For this, each cell was washed with PBS twice. Then, the medium was changed into a DMEM:F12(1:1) medium, to which FBS was not added, and 50 ⁇ g/ml of BPE (bovine pituitary extract), 1 mg/ml of faf-BSA (fatty acid- free bovine serum albumin) and 0.042 ⁇ g/ml of linoleic acid (LIN) were added, and the cells were further cultured for 48 hours. After the culture, each test group was treated with a test sample. The test sample was dissolved in DMSO at a ratio of 100OX, diluted with the medium and added to plates of each test group. Step 3. Flow Cytometry analysis
  • each cell was treated with HyQtase (a detaching solution available from Hyclone) at 37 ° C for 15 minutes to detach the cells from the plate.
  • HyQtase a detaching solution available from Hyclone
  • the medium was added thereto to neutralize the cells, and the cells were subjected to centrifugal separation at 25Og for 10 minutes to cause sedimentation of the cell.
  • Nile red (a fluorescence pigment, Sigma) stock solution (lOmg/ml) diluted in PBS was added to the cells so that the cells were stained to a final concentration of lO ⁇ g/ml.
  • Such staining was performed at 37 °C for 30 minutes under a light-shielded condition.
  • the cells were settled and dispersed in PBS, and fluorescence intensity was measured for 10000 cells per sample. Fluorescence caused by Nile red was measured both for green fluorescence (FL-I) and for red fluorescence (FL-2). After calculating the mean value from the intensity values measured in each test group, the mean value was compared to the fluorescence intensity of the non-treated group and expressed as a percent ratio. Each fluorescence intensity value indicates the lipid content of each test group (ref. J. Invest. Dermatol., 121: 441- 447, 2003).
  • the composition according to the present invention was determined for the effect of suppressing sebum generation.
  • the non-treated group according to Comparative Example 3 was used.
  • finasteride (Cipla) according to Comparative Example 4 was used.
  • the test samples and the amount thereof are shown in the following Table 4. The test results are shown in Table 4 and FIG. 1.
  • GTE green tea extract
  • BJI Biota orientalis extract
  • the present invention it is possible to obtain the same effect of suppressing sebum generation as conventional formulations containing an excessive amount of Biota orientalis extract, even if a small amount (1/10 of the currently used amount) of Biota orientalis extract and the balance amount of green tea extract are used. Additionally, since the Biota orientalis extract is used in a reduced amount and the total amount of extract is reduced accordingly, it is possible to reduce skin irritation and skin troubles/side effects.
  • the composition according to the present invention was subjected to a test for determining the effect of inhibiting growth of the sebaceous gland through an animal model.
  • Male 4-5 week-aged hamsters (Syrian golden hamster) were obtained and allowed to accommodate a new environment for one week. Then, the hamsters were dehaired on their backs to cause the flank organ to be exposed to the exterior, and three applicable animals were assigned per test group. Test materials were applied on the backs twice a day for two weeks.
  • the flank organ is an assembly of dermal melanocytes, sebaceous gland and hair follicles, and has been widely used for measuring the androgen effect. After two weeks, variations in size and color of the flank organ were observed with time.
  • green tea extract As can be seen from Table 6 and FIG. 4, some components contained in green tea show a relatively high effect of inhibiting growth of the sebaceous gland. However, the composition comprising green tea extract (GTE) in combination with Biota orientalis extract (BJI) (e.g. Example 36) shows the highest effect of inhibiting growth of sebaceous gland in the above test using an animal model.
  • GTE green tea extract
  • BJI Biota orientalis extract
  • composition according to the present invention can suppress sebum secretion and alleviate acne conditions.
  • composition according to the present invention will be further explained with reference to formulation examples.
  • formulation examples are illustrative only and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.
  • the composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum secretion when applied onto the human skin while showing excellent safety.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used effectively for preventing or treating sebum-related diseases, including acne, seborrheic dermatitis, skin pore enlargement caused by acne, or the like.

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Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum, which comprises catechins and flavonols contained in green tea leaves. The cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum comprises catechins and kaempferol contained in green tea leaves, and thus shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum by reducing the activity of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor isoform gamma (PPAR-Ϝ), as well as an excellent effect of alleviating acne conditions. Additionally, it is possible to obtain a synergic effect of suppressing sebum through the use of the above components contained in green tea leaves in combination with Biota orientalis extract.

Description

[DESCRIPTION] [Invention Title]
COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SUPPRESSING SEBUM CONTAINING CATECHINS AND FLAVONOLS [Technical Field]
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum, which comprises catechins and flavonols contained in green tea leaves. More particularly, the cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention comprises catechins and kaempferol contained in green tea leaves, and thus shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum by reducing the activity of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor isoform gamma (PPAR-γ), as well as an excellent effect of alleviating acne conditions. Additionally, it is possible to obtain a synergic effect of suppressing sebum through the use of the above components contained in green tea leaves in combination with Biota orientalis extract. [Background Art]
In general, while sebum functions to maintain skin moisture or to prevent attack of microorganisms in the skin including head and face, it enhances acne conditions after puberty. Particularly, in cases of women after their thirties, over- secretion of sebum may cause greasy skin, loose makeup and enlargement of skin pores. Such sebum is secreted in the sebaceous gland positioned in the pilosebaceous duct of skin, and reaches the skin surface through the hair follicle duct. Presence of an excessive amount of sebum on the skin causes an unpleasant skin condition, also known as "oily skin."
Oily skin is represented by a greasy skin condition, and such conditions become severe more and more with the lapse of time. Therefore, there has been a need for a cosmetic agent for reducing synthesis of sebum caused by the sebaceous gland and for minimizing oily and greasy conditions on the skin, particularly on the oily type skin or complex type skin. However, although over-secretion of sebum has been a matter of concern in the cosmetic field because it causes loose makeup or enlargement of skin pores, active studies have not been performed yet. Cosmetics for suppressing sebum that are currently used comprise porous powder for adsorbing sebum or contain medicinal herb extract, such as ivy extract, known to suppress sebum. However, such cosmetics cannot provide a sufficient effect. Meanwhile, peroxisome proliferator activated receptors (PPAR) are known nuclear hormone receptors having the three isoforms of α, β/δ and γ. Peroxisome proliferator activated receptor isoform α has been identified first based on the mechanism of controlling genes encoding fatty acid oxidase by the reaction with a peroxisome proliferator factor such as a fibric acid derivative (Issemann and Green, Nature, 1990, 347: 645-650). Additionally, it is disclosed that fatty acids play an important role in tissues expressed by PPAR-α (Leone et al., Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA, 1999, 96: 7473-7478). Lipid activators of PPAR-α, such as linoleic acid, etc., are known to those skilled in the art. It is demonstrated that such activators enhance formation of an epithelial barrier in vitro (Hanley et. Al., J. Clin. Inv., 1977, 100: 705-712). Recently, it has been found that PPAR-γ agonists increase insulin sensitivity and decrease glucose and insulin in a recent animal model test. This indicates that PPAR-γ may be applied to treatment of diabetes mellitus or a part of complications thereof (Ricote M., Nature, 1998, 391: 79-82). Additionally, although it is reported that PPAR-γ affects maturation of sebocyte in the sebaceous gland (Kuenzli et. al., British J. Derm., 2003, 149: 229-236), such effect of PPAR-γ has not been applied in the cosmetic field. Further, WO2003/068205 discloses foods for preventing metabolic diseases, such as hypertension or hypercholesterolemia, by way of PPAR-α and PPAR-γ agonists. However, there is no disclosure for PPAR-γ antagonists, and such food compositions are limited in their use for preventing metabolic diseases. Meanwhile, Biota orientalis refers to seeds of Thuja orientalis that belongs to
Cupressaceae. Biota orientalis is obtained by removing impurities, husk and hulls from the seeds, steaming them, and drying them with the sunlight. Biota orientalis has a light yellow or yellowish white color in a fresh state, but undergoes a change in color to a yellowish brown color while discharging oil therefrom. Generally, Biota orientalis is collected from Shangdong, Yunnan, Henan and Hebei in the China. The seeds of Biota orientalis contain about 15% of fatty oil and a small amount of essence and saponin, and have been used as an anti-inflammatory agent, a sedative for treating anxiety and compulsive disorder, a constipation-treating agent and a depilation-treating agent. For example, Korean Patent No. 2000-58768 ("Composition for suppressing sebum secretion) discloses a composition for preventing and treating sebum-related diseases, which comprises Biota orientalis extract. Also, Korean Patent No. 2002-48073 (Skin application composition for preventing and treating acne conditions) discloses a composition for suppressing sebum secretion and for preventing and treating acne conditions by using Biota orientalis having an effect of inhibiting 5-alpha-reductase. Further, Korean Patent No. 2003-86404 (Skin application composition comprising medicinal herb extracts) discloses a medicinal herb composition for preventing or treating skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis and psoriasis, which comprises Biota orientalis as a constitutional element. However, all the above compositions are problematic in terms of availability, skin irritation and others. [Disclosure] [Technical problem]
Accordingly, the present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems occurring in the prior art. The inventors of the present invention have conducted many studies to search for elements having an effect of suppressing sebum generation by reducing activity of PPAR-γ that affects maturation of sebocytes in the sebaceous gland, and have found that a cosmetic composition comprising catechins and flavonols contained in green tea leaves can suppress sebum generation and alleviate acne conditions. The present invention is based on this finding. Additionally, we have found that when the above elements contained in green tea leaves are used in a cosmetic composition in combination with extract of Biota orientalis having a low concentration, the cosmetic composition provides a high effect of suppressing sebum secretion while not causing any side effects on the skin.
Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum generation and for alleviating acne conditions. [Technical solution]
To accomplish the above object, according to the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum, which comprises catechins and flavonols as active ingredients.
The cosmetic composition may further comprise extract of Biota orientalis. The cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention is very safe and shows an excellent effect of reducing sebum secretion, and thus is useful for preventing or treating sebum-related diseases including acne, seborrheic dermatitis, skin pore enlargement caused by acne, or the like. [Description of Drawings]
Further objects and advantages of the invention can be more fully understood from the following detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which: FIG. 1 is a graph showing the effect of suppressing sebum generation obtained from various mixtures of the elements contained in green tea leaves with extract of Biota orientalis in primarily cultured sebocytes;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the interaction between extract of green tea leaves to extract of Biota orientalis based on the results of the experiment carried out for calculating the optimal mixing ratio between both types of extract;
FIG. 3 is a contour plot illustrating the optimal mixing ratio of extract of green tea leaves to extract of Biota orientalis; and
FIG. 4 is a photograph demonstrating the effect of suppressing growth of the sebaceous gland obtained from the mixture of extract of green tea leaves with extract of Biota orientalis in an animal model using hamsters. [Best Mode]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail. The cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention comprises catechins and flavonols as active ingredients, and thus shows an excellent of suppressing sebum generation by reducing activity of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor gamma (PPAR-γ) and an effect of alleviating acne conditions.
Such catechins contained in green tea leaves include (-)EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), (-)GCG (gallocatechin gallate), (-)ECG (epicatechin gallate), (-)CG (catechin gallate), (-)EGC (epigallocatechin), (-)GC (gallocatechin), (-)EC (epicatechin), (+)EC (epicatechin), (-)CA (catechin), (+)CA (catechin), or the like.
Additionally, flavonols include quercetin, kaempferol, myricetin, or the like. Kaempferol is preferred. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the above active ingredients each in an amount of 0.001 ~30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. If each active ingredient is used in an amount less than 0.001 wt%, it is not possible to provide a sufficient effect. On the other hand, if each active ingredient is used in an amount more than 30 wt%, formulation of the cosmetic composition is difficult. Also, the combined weight of the green tea catechins with flavonols is preferably 30 wt% or less.
Meanwhile, although the mixing ratio of green tea catechins to flavonols may be varied with the particular formulation of the composition, the mixing ratio is preferably 1:0.1 ~ 10 (green tea catechins:flavonols). The cosmetic composition according to the present invention reduces the activity of PPAR-γ, and thus shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum generation and alleviating acne conditions.
One of the known methods for determining PPAR activation by observing PPAR activation/inactivation is reporter gene assay (Kliewer et. al., Nature, 1992, 358: 771-774). The reporter gene assay includes cloning a base sequence containing a promoter of interest and reporter genes, and injecting the base sequence into eukaryotic cells to activate transcription and to control the expression of a protein. Herein, protein expression increases as the promoter is activated. The reporter gene used for the first time is CAT (chloramphenicol acetyltransferase) gene. Recently, luciferase gene has been used widely. In the present invention, a Dual-Luciferase Reporter Assay System Kit available from Promega Co. was used.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition further comprises extract of Biota orientalis in addition to the green tea extract containing catechins and flavonols. The extract of Biota orientalis used in the present invention is obtained by removing husk and hulls from the seeds of Thuja orientalis that belongs to Cupressaceae, steaming them, drying them with the sunlight, and extracting the dried product.
The Biota orientalis extract is used preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. If the extract is used in an amount less than 0.001 wt%, it is not possible to obtain a sufficient effect. On the other hand, if the extract is used in an amount more than 30 wt%, formulation of the cosmetic composition is difficult.
According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, it is possible to obtain an optimized effect when the above active ingredients are used as follows: 3 to 10% of green tea extract containing catechins and flavonols in combination with less than 0.01% of Biota orientalis extract; 1 to 3% of green tea extract containing catechins and flavonols in combination with less than 0.01 to 1% of Biota orientalis extract; and less than 1% of green tea extract containing catechins and flavonols in combination with less than 1 to 10% of Biota orientalis extract. Herein, the green tea extract comprises at least 1% of catechins and at least 0.1% of flavonols. Under these conditions, despite the use of a small amount of Biota orientalis extract, it is possible to obtain the same effect as a conventional formulation comprising an excessive amount of Biota orientalis extract. Further, it is possible to reduce skin irritation and side effects caused by the use of Biota orientalis extract by virtue of the use of such a small amount of Biota orientalis extract.
There is no particular limitation in the formulation of the skin cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be any skin adhesion type cosmetic formulation, such as lotion, skin toner, nourishing toner, nourishing cream, massage cream, pack, gel, essence, or the like.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to examples and experimental examples. However, the following examples are illustrative only, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.
[Mode for Invention]
[Experimental Example 1] Determination of PPAR-γ Activation Capability Using One- Factor-At-a-Time (OFAT) experiment The following test was carried out to determine PPAR-γ activation capability.
CV-I cells (ATCC CCL 70), i.e. monkey kidney epithelial cell line, were subcultured in a DMEM medium containing 10% bovine fetal serum treated with charcoal/dextrin. A phenol red-free medium was used to avoid the effect of estrogen upon phenol red. As plasmids, used were plasmids having PPRE (PPARs responsive element) as a promoter, followed by firefly luciferase genes as a reporter, the PPRE being activated by PPAR- (gene-containing PPAR- and ligand-bound PPAR-) bound next to the universal promoter expressed under general culture conditions, and a reference plasmid to which renilla luciferase genes were bound.
CV-I cells were plated on a 24-well microtiter plate at a concentration of 5X104 cells per well and cultured for 24 hours. Then, the above three types of plasmid genes were subjected to transient transfection by using a TransFast Kit available from Promega Co. After the cultured product was washed with PBS (phosphate buffered saline) once, the product was treated with a suitable concentration of sample materials, cultured again for 24 hours, and washed with PBS two times. Next, the cells were lysed with PLB (passive lysis buffer, Promega) once, and determined for luciferase activity by using a Dual-Luciferase Reporter Assay System Kit (Promega) in the samples and the controls. In this test, as a positive control, pioglitazone known as the strongest PPAR-γ ligand was used. As negative controls, DMSO used to dissolve the samples and non- treated group were used. Each reported value was calculated as a ratio based on the negative control. The results are shown in the following Table 1, wherein each value is the mean value obtained after carrying out the test three times.
[Table 1]
Results for PPAR-γ activation analysis
Figure imgf000010_0001
As can be seen from Table 1, among various components contained in green tea leave, catechins and kaempferol show an excellent effect of inhibiting PPAR-γ activity.
[Experimental Example 2] Test for determining effect of alleviating acne conditions by suppressing sebum generation
To determine the effect of suppressing sebum generation and alleviating acne conditions of the composition according to the present invention, two groups including 26 men and women with an age of 14-28 were allowed to use the lotion as described in the following Table 2 for 4 weeks in a conventional manner. The effect of improving skin conditions was determined according to the following evaluation criteria based on the comments of the users. The test results are shown in the following Table 3.
<Evaluation Criteria>
+++: a significant drop in sebum secretion and an excellent effect of improving skin conditions.
++: a significant effect of improving skin conditions.
+: an effect of slightly improving skin conditions.
±: no improvement/no aggravation.
- : no improvement and a significant aggravation. [Table 2]
Figure imgf000011_0001
Figure imgf000012_0001
[Table 3]
Figure imgf000012_0002
As can be seen from Table 3, the compositions of Examples 1 ~5 comprising kaempferol and mixed catechins including gallocatechin gallate according to the present invention show a higher effect of suppressing sebum generation and alleviating acne conditions as compared to the composition comprising kaempferol alone.
[Experimental Example 3] Test for determining effect of suppressing sebum generation of mixture containing green tea extract and Biota orientalis extract
Step 1. Culture of sebocytes
To perform the test, sebocytes were subjected to primary culture. The sebocytes were extracted from the sebaceous gland attached to hair follicles with the aid of a hospital in partnership. To perform the extraction, pieces of hair follicles were treated with 3 unit/ml of dipase at 4°C for 20 hours to isolate epidermis therefrom. Next, the epidermis was treated with 0.02% dioxyribonuclease at 37 °C for 15 minutes, and the sebaceous gland was finely cut. The isolated sebocyte lobules were cultured together with mitomycin C-inactivated 3T3 cells. The medium used in the culture was a DMEM:F12(3:1) medium further comprising 10% fetal bovine serum (FBS), 10ng/ml of human recombinant epidermal growth factor (EGF), 10ng/ml of keratinocyte growth factor (KGF), 10 to 9M cholera toxin (Sigma), 2mN Glutamax (20OmM stock, Gibco), and lOμg/ml of Gentamycin (Amresco). Passage number of the sebocytes used in this test was limited to 4 or less (ref. J. Invest. Dermatol, 110: 84-89, 1998).
Step 2. Differentiation of sebocytes and treatment with sample Differentiation of the sebocytes in culture was induced by varying the composition of the culture medium. For this, each cell was washed with PBS twice. Then, the medium was changed into a DMEM:F12(1:1) medium, to which FBS was not added, and 50μg/ml of BPE (bovine pituitary extract), 1 mg/ml of faf-BSA (fatty acid- free bovine serum albumin) and 0.042 μg/ml of linoleic acid (LIN) were added, and the cells were further cultured for 48 hours. After the culture, each test group was treated with a test sample. The test sample was dissolved in DMSO at a ratio of 100OX, diluted with the medium and added to plates of each test group. Step 3. Flow Cytometry analysis
First, 72 hours after the sample treatment, each cell was treated with HyQtase (a detaching solution available from Hyclone) at 37 °C for 15 minutes to detach the cells from the plate. Next, the medium was added thereto to neutralize the cells, and the cells were subjected to centrifugal separation at 25Og for 10 minutes to cause sedimentation of the cell. Then, Nile red (a fluorescence pigment, Sigma) stock solution (lOmg/ml) diluted in PBS was added to the cells so that the cells were stained to a final concentration of lOμg/ml. Such staining was performed at 37 °C for 30 minutes under a light-shielded condition. After the staining, the cells were settled and dispersed in PBS, and fluorescence intensity was measured for 10000 cells per sample. Fluorescence caused by Nile red was measured both for green fluorescence (FL-I) and for red fluorescence (FL-2). After calculating the mean value from the intensity values measured in each test group, the mean value was compared to the fluorescence intensity of the non-treated group and expressed as a percent ratio. Each fluorescence intensity value indicates the lipid content of each test group (ref. J. Invest. Dermatol., 121: 441- 447, 2003).
Then, in the same test manner as described above, the composition according to the present invention was determined for the effect of suppressing sebum generation. As a control, the non-treated group according to Comparative Example 3 was used. As a positive control, finasteride (Cipla) according to Comparative Example 4 was used. The test samples and the amount thereof are shown in the following Table 4. The test results are shown in Table 4 and FIG. 1.
(Description of samples: EGCG, GCG, quercetin, kaempferol and myricetin were obtained from Sigma Co. Green tea extract (GTE) were obtained by extracting green tea leaves collected in the Cheju island in 95% EtOH at room temperature for 24 hours, followed by freeze drying, and contained at least 1% of catechins and at least 0.1% of flavonols. Biota orientalis extract (BJI) was obtained from Bioland Co.)
[Table 4]
Figure imgf000014_0001
Figure imgf000015_0001
As can be seen from Table 4 and FIG. 1, green tea(GTE) extract (Example. 11), EGCG and GCG as catechins contained in green tea leaves (Examples 6 and 7), and quercetin, kaempferol and myricetin as flavonols (Examples 8 — 10) was shown to suppress sebum generation. In addition, it can be seen that when Biota orientalis extract is further used (Examples 13 ~ 18), the effect of suppressing sebum generation increases significantly. Particularly, when 10 ppm of Biota orientalis extract is used in combination with lOμM of kaempferol (Example 17), the highest inhibition (43.4%) is obtained.
However, in the presence of such a high concentration (10 ppm) of Biota orientalis extract, the unique effect provided by the elements contained in green tea leaves in the test group treated with green tea alone cannot be expressed. Thus, both active ingredients cannot provide a synergic effect sufficiently. Therefore, the following test was further carried out to determine the optimal mixing ratio of the active ingredients in green tea extract to Biota orientalis extract.
[Experimental Example 4] Test for determining optimal mixing ratio of active ingredients in green tea extract to Biota orientalis extract
The following test was carried out to determine the optimal mixing ratio of the active ingredients in green tea extract to Biota orientalis extract. The test was performed in the same manner as described in Experimental Example 3, and test groups were treated by using the process of DOE (Design of Experiments) according to the protocol provided by Minitab 14 s/w. Detailed experimental procedure and the test results are shown in the following Table 5 and FIGs. 2 and 3. [Table 5]
Figure imgf000016_0001
As can be seen from FIG. 2, green tea extract (GTE) shows little effect in the presence of lOppm of Biota orientalis extract (BJI). This indicates it is possible to provide an effect of suppressing sebum generation to a saturated degree by using Biota orientalis extract alone. This is similar to the results of Experimental Example 3.
It is to be noted that when using lppm of BJI in combination with lppm of GTE (Example 26), about 30% of inhibition can be expected. This is similar to the inhibition (about 33%) obtained by using lOppm of BJI (Example 12). The results can be seen from the contour plot of FIG. 3, wherein the pink-colored region (region with a sebum generation ratio of 60-70%) starts at lppm of BJI and lppm of GTE.
More particularly, it is possible to obtain an optimized effect when using 3 ~ 10% of green tea extract in combination with Biota orientalis used in an amount less than 0.01%; when using 1 ~3% of green tea extract in combination with Biota orientalis used in an amount of 0.01 — 1%; and when using less than 1% of green tea extract in combination with Biota orientalis used in an amount of 1 ~ 10%.
Therefore, according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain the same effect of suppressing sebum generation as conventional formulations containing an excessive amount of Biota orientalis extract, even if a small amount (1/10 of the currently used amount) of Biota orientalis extract and the balance amount of green tea extract are used. Additionally, since the Biota orientalis extract is used in a reduced amount and the total amount of extract is reduced accordingly, it is possible to reduce skin irritation and skin troubles/side effects.
[Experimental Example 5] Test for determining effect of inhibiting growth of sebaceous gland in hamsters
The composition according to the present invention was subjected to a test for determining the effect of inhibiting growth of the sebaceous gland through an animal model. Male 4-5 week-aged hamsters (Syrian golden hamster) were obtained and allowed to accommodate a new environment for one week. Then, the hamsters were dehaired on their backs to cause the flank organ to be exposed to the exterior, and three applicable animals were assigned per test group. Test materials were applied on the backs twice a day for two weeks. The flank organ is an assembly of dermal melanocytes, sebaceous gland and hair follicles, and has been widely used for measuring the androgen effect. After two weeks, variations in size and color of the flank organ were observed with time. To controls, alcohol used as vehicle, testosterone (T) available from Sigma Co., and finasteride available from Cipla Co. were applied. Each application includes a test sample to a total volume of 5μl, and each of testosterone and the test samples was applied to an amount of lmg. The results are shown in the following Table 6 and FIG. 4.
[Table 6]
Figure imgf000017_0001
Figure imgf000018_0001
As can be seen from Table 6 and FIG. 4, some components contained in green tea show a relatively high effect of inhibiting growth of the sebaceous gland. However, the composition comprising green tea extract (GTE) in combination with Biota orientalis extract (BJI) (e.g. Example 36) shows the highest effect of inhibiting growth of sebaceous gland in the above test using an animal model.
[Experimental Example 6] Effects of suppressing sebum secretion and alleviating acne conditions Nine men and women who feel the over-secretion of sebum on their faces, and ten men and women suffering from acne were selected, and they were allowed to use the formulation according to the following Formulation Example 1 on their faces at the sites with acne conditions and over-secretion of sebum everyday for 4 weeks. The persons participating in the test subjectively evaluated the effect of suppressing sebum secretion and alleviating acne conditions. Also, the effect of suppressing sebum secretion was measured by using a sebum tester. The following Tables 7 and 8 show the results for the effect of suppressing sebum secretion and the effect of alleviating acne conditions, respectively. [Table 7]
Figure imgf000019_0001
[Table 8]
Figure imgf000019_0002
As can be seen from Tables 7 and 8, the composition according to the present invention can suppress sebum secretion and alleviate acne conditions.
Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be further explained with reference to formulation examples. However, the following formulation examples are illustrative only and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto.
[Formulation Example 1] Nourishing skin toner [Table 9]
Figure imgf000020_0001
[Formulation Example 2] Cream [Table 10]
Figure imgf000021_0001
[Formulation Example 3] Lotion [Table 11]
Figure imgf000021_0002
Figure imgf000022_0001
[Formulation Example 4] Pack [Table 12]
Figure imgf000022_0002
[Formulation Example 5] Cosmetic soap [Table 13]
Figure imgf000023_0001
[Industrial Applicability]
As can be seen from the foregoing, the composition for suppressing sebum according to the present invention shows an excellent effect of suppressing sebum secretion when applied onto the human skin while showing excellent safety. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used effectively for preventing or treating sebum-related diseases, including acne, seborrheic dermatitis, skin pore enlargement caused by acne, or the like.

Claims

[CLAIMS] [Claim 1 ]
A cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum, which comprises catechins and flavonols as active ingredients. [Claim 2]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the catechin is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of (-)EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), (-)GCG (gallocatechin gallate), (-)ECG (epicatechin gallate), (-)CG (catechin gallate), (- )EGC (epigallocatechin), (-)GC (gallocatechin), (-)EC (epicatechin), (+)EC (epicatechin), (-)C A (catechin), and (+)CA (catechin). [Claim 3]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the flavonol is at least one compound selected from the group consisting of quercetin, kaempferol and myricetin. [Claim 4]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the catechins and the flavonols are mixed in a ratio of 1 :0.1 ~ 10. [Claim 5]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , wherein each of the active ingredients is used in an amount of 0.001 to 30 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. [Claim 6]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which suppresses sebum generation by reducing activity of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor isoform gamma (PPAR-γ). [Claim 7]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which further comprises Biota orientalis extract as an active ingredient. [Claim 8]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the Biota orientalis extract is used in an amount of 0.001 to 30.0 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. [Claim 9]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein each of the active ingredients are used as follows: 3 to 10% of a mixture of catechins and flavonols in combination with less than 0.01% of Biota orientalis extract; 1 to 3% of a mixture of catechins and flavonols in combination with 0.01 to 1% of Biota orientalis extract; and less than 1% of a mixture of catechins and flavonols in combination with 1 to 10% of Biota orientalis extract.
PCT/KR2006/003572 2005-09-08 2006-09-08 Cosmetic composition for suppressing sebum containing catechins and flavonols WO2007029983A1 (en)

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