Composition for coating keratin fibres comprising a block polymer, a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres comprising a particular block polymer. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up or treating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. The composition according to the invention may be a makeup composition, also called mascara, a makeup base for keratin fibres or base coat, a composition to be applied over makeup, also known as top coat, or a composition for treating keratin fibres. More especially, the composition according to the invention is a mascara. The term "mascara" is understood as meaning a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be a makeup composition for the eyelashes, a makeup base for the eyelashes, a composition to be applied over a mascara, also known as top coat, or a cosmetic treatment composition for the eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a leave-in composition.
Makeup compositions for the eyes, and in particular for the eyelashes, such as mascaras, may be provided in various forms: for example in the form of biphasic oil-in-water or O/ or water-in-oil W/O emulsions, or of aqueous or anhydrous dispersions. It is generally through the qualitative and quantitative choice of the waxes and polymers that the desired specificities of application are adjusted for the makeup compositions, such as their fluidity, their covering power and/or their curling power. Thus, it is possible to prepare various compositions which, when applied in particular to the eyelashes, induce varied effects of the lengthening, curling and/or thickening type (charging or volumizing effect) . It is known from the prior art that the higher the content of solids (provided in part by a fatty phase consisting, for example, of one or more waxes or of one or more lipophilic polymers) in a composition, the greater the deposition of material on the eyelashes and therefore the more the result obtained will be volumizing. However, the increase in the content of solids in a composition, such as an emulsion or dispersion, causes an increase in the consistency of the product obtained and therefore a delicate and difficult application to the eyelashes because the product is thick and viscous, it forms a deposit with
difficulty, in a heterogeneous manner and in packets. The increase in the content of solids is therefore often limited by the increase in consistency and does not exceed 45% of the total weight of the composition. This limitation on the content of solids is often linked to the impossibility of increasing, on the one hand, the wax content in the fatty phase which does not exceed 25% for reasons of feasibility (the compositions comprising between 20 and 25% by weight of wax are often very thick, compact, difficult to apply and have unsatisfactory cosmetic properties) and, on the other hand, of incorporating fat-soluble polymers in a large amount, which considerably increases the viscosity of the composition. Another means of increasing the content of solids is to incorporate solid particles such as fillers or pigments, but the increase in consistency also limits the maximum percentage of solids; furthermore, the use of solid particles in a large quantity does not promote homogeneous and smooth deposition not only because of the consistency but also because of the size of the particles introduced, which gives a granular and unsmooth appearance to the deposit. That is generally the case for the so-called volumizing mascaras which are difficult to apply and which give a heterogeneous makeup.
Furthermore, these compositions do not make it possible to obtain a good lengthening effect on the eyelashes . A cosmetic composition for coating and lengthening the eyelashes is known from the document FR 2 528 699 comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and a wax. However, this composition does not have a sufficient charging effect for the user who wishes to thicken their eyelashes. It is therefore difficult to obtain a makeup composition for the keratin fibres, comprising a high content of solids and therefore a satisfactory volumizing effect, and having a satisfactory lengthening effect. The aim of the present invention is therefore to propose another route for formulating a composition for coating the keratin fibres leading to a keratin fibre charging effect, and which completely or partially solves the problems linked to conventional routes of formulation. In addition, the compositions according to the invention allow easy application to the keratin fibres and have a satisfactory lengthening effect . The inventors have discovered that such a composition could be obtained by using a particular block polymer, a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer, the said anionic and cationic polymers being
distinct from the block polymer. Surprisingly, the incorporation of such as polymer at high or very high contents (which may be up to 50% by weight) makes it possible to significantly increase the dry matter content of a composition for coating keratin fibres, while preserving a consistency which allows easy application to the keratin fibres. In addition, the combination of such a block polymer with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer allows the production of a composition which, after application to keratin fibres, leads to a lengthening and/or coating effect on the said fibres. More precisely, a subject of the invention is a composition for coating keratin fibres comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium, at least one film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, called in the text that follows "block polymer", a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer, the said anionic and cationic polymers being distinct from the block polymer. A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up or for the nontherapeutic care of keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, comprising the application of a composition as defined above to the keratin fibres. A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for obtaining a makeup
for the keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, which is charging and lengthening. A subject of the invention is also the use of the combination of a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer in a composition for coating keratin fibres, in order to obtain a composition that is easy to apply to the keratin fibres and/or leading to a charging and lengthening makeup. The term "cosmetically acceptable" organic liquid medium means an organic liquid medium that is compatible with the eyelashes or the skin. 1) Block polymer The polymer of the composition according to the invention is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer. The term "ethylenic" polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerizing monomers comprising an ethylenic unsaturation. The term "block" polymer means a polymer comprising at least 2 different blocks, preferably at least 3 different blocks. The polymer is a polymer with a linear structure. In contrast, a polymer of non-linear structure is, for example, a polymer of branched, starburst or grafted structure, or the like. The term "film-forming" polymer means a
polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support and especially to keratin materials. Advantageously, the block polymer of the composition according to the invention is free of styrene. The term "polymer free of styrene" means a polymer containing less that 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably less than 5% by weight, even better less than 2% by weight, even better less than 1% by weight, or not even containing none of a styrene monomer such as styrene, styrene derivatives such as methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene of styrene or of styrene derivatives such as for example methylstyrene, chlorostyrene or chloromethylstyrene. According to one embodiment, the block polymer of the inventive composition is derived from aliphatic ethylenic monomers. The term "aliphatic monomer" means a monomer comprising no aromatic groups. According to one embodiment, the block polymer is an ethylenic polymer derived from aliphatic ethylenic monomers comprising a carbon-carbon double bond and at least one ester group -COO- or amide group -CON-. The ester group may be linked to one of the two unsaturated carbons via the carbon atom or the oxygen atom. The amide group may be linked to one of the two
unsaturated carbons via the carbon atom or the nitrogen atom. Preferably, the block polymer of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first block and at least one second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg) , the said first and second blocks being linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. The term "at least one" block means one or more blocks. It is pointed out that, in the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, the terms "first" and "second" blocks do not in any way condition the order of the said blocks in the polymer structure. Advantageously, the first and second blocks of the block polymer are mutually incompatible. The term "mutually incompatible blocks" means that the mixture formed from the polymer corresponding to the first block and from the polymer corresponding to the second block is not miscible in the organic liquid medium that is contained in major amount by weight in the organic liquid medium of the composition, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa) , for a content of the polymer mixture of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the mixture (polymers and solvent) , it being understood that: i) the said polymers are present in the mixture in a content such that the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second blocks has an average (weight-average or number-average) molecular mass equal to that of the block polymer ± 15%. When the organic liquid medium comprises a mixture of organic liquids, in the case of two or more liquids present in identical mass proportions, the said polymer mixture is immiscible in at least one of them. Obviously, when the organic liquid medium comprises only one organic liquid, the latter is the major organic liquid. Advantageously, the major organic liquid of the composition is the organic solvent for polymerizing the block polymer or the major organic solvent of the mixture of organic solvents for polymerizing the block polymer. The intermediate block is a block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer makes it possible to "compatibilize" these blocks. Preferably, the block copolymer is present in the organic liquid medium of the composition.
Preferably, the block polymer comprises no silicon atoms in its skeleton. The term "skeleton" means the main chain of the polymer, as opposed to the pendant side chains. Preferably, the block polymer is not water- soluble, i.e. the polymer is not soluble in water or in a mixture of water and linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, without pH modification, at an active material content of at least 1% by weight, at room temperature (25°C) . Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not an elastomer. The term "non-elastomeric polymer" means a polymer which, when it is subjected to a constraint intended to stretch it (for example by 30% relative to its initial length) , does not return to a length substantially identical to its initial length when the constraint ceases. More specifically, the term "non-elastomeric polymer" denotes a polymer with an instantaneous recovery R < 50% and a delayed recovery Rh < 70% after having been subjected to a 30% elongation. Preferably, Ri is < 30% and R2h < 50%. More specifically, the non-elastomeric nature of the polymer is determined according to the following protocol:
A polymer film is prepared by pouring a solution of the polymer into a Teflon-coated mould, followed by drying for 7 days in an environment conditioned at 23 ± 5°C and 50 ± 10% relative humidity. A film about 100 μm thick is thus obtained, from which are cut rectangular specimens (for example using a punch) 15 mm wide and 80 mm long. This sample is subjected to a tensile stress using a machine sold under the reference Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions as for the drying. The specimens are pulled at a speed of 50 mm/min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm, which corresponds to the initial length (10) of the specimen. The instantaneous recovery Ri is determined in the following manner: - the specimen is pulled by 30% (εmax), i.e. about 0.3 times its initial length (10) - the constraint is released by applying a return speed equal to the tensile speed, i.e. 50 mm/min, and the residual elongation of the specimen is measured as a percentage, after returning to zero constraint (εi) . The percentage instantaneous recovery (Ri) is given by the following formula: Ri = (εmax - εi)/εmax) x 100
To determine the delayed recovery, the percentage residual elongation of the specimen (ε2 ) is measured, 2 hours after returning to zero constraint. The percentage delayed recovery (R2h) is given by the following formula: 2 = (εmax - ε2h)/εmax) x 100 Purely as a guide, a polymer according to one embodiment of the invention has an instantaneous recovery Ri of 10% and a delayed recovery R2h of 30%. Advantageously, the block polymer used in the composition according to the invention has a polydispersity index I of greater than 2, for example ranging from 2 to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5, for example ranging from 2.5 to 8 and better still greater than or equal to 2.8, and especially ranging from 2.8 to 6. The polydispersity index I of the block polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight-average mass Mw to the number-average mass Mn. The weight-average molar mass (Mw) and number-average molar mass (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector) . The weight-average mass (Mw) of the block polymer is preferably less than or equal to 300 000; it ranges, for example, from 35 000 to 200 000 and better
still from 45 000 to 150 000. The number-average mass (Mn) of the block polymer is preferably less than or equal to 70 000; it ranges, for example, from 10 000 to 60 000 and better still from 12 000 to 50 000. Each block of the block polymer of the composition according to the invention is derived from one type of monomer or from several different types of monomer. This means that each block may consist of a homopolymer or a copolymer; this copolymer constituting the block may in turn be random or alternating'. Advantageously, the intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer is a random polymer. Preferably, the intermediate block is derived essentially from constituent monomers of the first block and of the second block. The term "essentially" means at least 85%, preferably at least 90%, better still 95% and even better still 100%. Advantageously/ the intermediate block has a glass transition temperature Tg of between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second blocks. The glass transition temperatures indicated for the first and second blocks may be theoretical Tg
values determined from the theoretical Tg values of the constituent monomers of each of the blocks, which may be found in a reference manual such as the Polymer
Handbook, 3rd Edition, 1989, John Wiley, according to the following relationship, known as Fox's law:
i τπ
± being the mass fraction of the monomer i in the block under consideration and Tgi being the glass transition temperature of the homopolymer of the monomer i. Unless otherwise indicated, the Tg values indicated for the first and second blocks in the present patent application are theoretical Tg values. The difference between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second blocks is generally greater than 10 °C, preferably greater than 20°C and better still greater than 30°C. In particular, the first block may be chosen from: - a) a block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, - b) a block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, - c) a block with a Tg of between 20 and 40°C, and the second block can be chosen from a category a) , b) or c) different from the first block.
In the present invention, the expression: "between ... and ..." is intended to denote a range of values for which the limits mentioned are excluded, and "from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." are intended to denote a range of values for which the limits are included. a) Block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C has, for example, a Tg ranging from 40 to 150°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, for example ranging from 50 °C to 120 °C and better still greater than or equal to 60 °C, for example ranging from 60°C to 120°C. The block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition temperatures of greater than or equal to 40°C. This first block may be a homopolymer consisting of only one type of monomer (for which the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer is greater than or equal to 40°C) . In the case where the first block is a copolymer, it may be totally or partially derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting
copolymer is greater than or equal to 40 °C. The copolymer may comprise, for example: - monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg values of greater than or equal to 40 °C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, for example ranging from 50°C to 120°C and better still greater than or equal to 60°C, for example ranging from 60°C to 120°C, and - monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg values of less than 40 °C, chosen from monomers with a Tg of between 20 and 40 °C and/or monomers with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20°C, preferably less than 15°C, especially ranging from -80°C to 15°C and better still less than 10°C, for example ranging from -50°C to 0°C, as described later. The monomers whose homopolymers have a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40 °C are chosen, preferably, from the following monomers, also known as the main monomers: - methacrylates of formula CH
2 = C(CH
3)-COORι in which R
x represents a linear or branched unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or Ri represents a C
4 to Cι
2 cycloalkyl group,
- acrylates of formula CH
2 = CH-COOR
2 in which R
2 represents a C to C
i2 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl acrylate or a tert-butyl group, - (meth) acrylamides of formula:
in which R and Rs, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched' Ci to Cχ2 alkyl group such as an n-butyl, t-butyl, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl group; or R represents H and Rs represents a 1, l-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R' denotes H or methyl. Examples of monomers that may be mentioned include N-butylacrylamide, N-t-butyl- acrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N,N-dimethyl- acrylamide and N,N-dibutylacrylamide, - and mixtures thereof. Main monomers that are particularly preferred are methyl methacrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate and isobornyl (meth) acrylate, and mixtures thereof. b) Block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C The block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C has, for example, a Tg ranging from -100 to 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 15 °C, especially ranging from -80 to 15°C and better still less than or
equal to 10 °C, for example ranging from -50 to 0°C. The block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition temperatures of less than or equal to 20 °C. This second block may be a homopolymer consisting of only one type of monomer (for which the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer is less than or equal to 20°C) . In the case where the block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C is a copolymer, it may be totally or partially derived from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is less than or equal to 20°C. It may comprise, for example - one or more monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20 °C, preferably less than 15°C, especially ranging from -80 to 15°C and better still less than 10 °C, for example ranging from -50°C to 0°C, and - one or more monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than 20 °C, such as
monomers with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 °C, for example ranging from 50°C to 120°C and better still greater than or equal to 60 °C, for example ranging from 60 °C to 120 °C and/or monomers with a Tg of between 20 and 40 °C, as described above . Preferably, the block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C is a homopolymer. The monomers whose homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C are preferably chosen from the following monomers, or main monomers: - acrylates of formula CH2 = CHCOOR3, R3 representing a linear or branched Ci to Cχ2 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more hetero atoms chosen from 0, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR4, R4 representing a linear or branched Cε to Ci2 unsubstituted alkyl group, in which one or more hetero atoms chosen from 0, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated; - vinyl esters of formula R5-CO-0-CH = CH2 in which R5 represents a linear or branched C to Cχ2 alkyl group, - C4 to C12 alkyl vinyl ethers,
- N-(C to Cχ2) alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide, - and mixtures thereof. The main monomers that are particularly preferred for the block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C are alkyl acrylates whose alkyl chain contains from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, such as methyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof. c) Block with a Tg of between 20 and 40°C The block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 °C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. In the case where this block is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers (or main monomers) which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition temperatures of between 20 and 40°C. This first block may be a homopolymer, consisting of only one type of monomer (for which the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer ranges from 20°C to 40°C) . The monomers whose homopolymer has a glass transition temperature of between 20 and 40°C are preferably chosen from n-butyl methacrylate, cyclodecyl acrylate, neopentyl acrylate and isodecylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof.
In the case where the block with a Tg of between 20 and 40°C is a copolymer, it is totally or partially derived from one or more monomers (or main monomers) whose nature and concentration are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is between 20 and 40°C. Advantageously, the block with a Tg of between 20 and 40°C is a copolymer totally or partially derived from: - main monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C, for example a Tg ranging from 40 °C to 150 °C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 °C, for example ranging from 50 to 120 °C and better still greater than or equal to 60°C, for example ranging from 60°C to 120°C, as described above, and/or - main monomers whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 to 20 °C, preferably less than or equal to 15°C, especially ranging from -80°C to 15°C and better still less than or equal to 10°C, for example ranging from -50 °C to 0°C, as described above, the said monomers being chosen such that the Tg of the copolymer forming the first block is between 20 and 40°C. Such main monomers are chosen, for example, from methyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate and
methacrylate, butyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the proportion of the second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C ranges from 10% to 85% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% and even better still from 20% to 50% by weight of the polymer. However, each of the blocks may contain in small proportion at least one constituent monomer of the other block. Thus, the first block may contain at least one constituent monomer of the second block, and vice versa. Each of the first and/or second blocks may comprise, in addition to the monomers indicated above, one or more other monomers known as additional monomers, which are different from the main monomers mentioned above. The nature and amount of this or these additional monomer (s) are chosen such that the block in which they are present has the desired glass transition temperature. This additional monomer is chosen, for example, from: hydrophilic monomers such as:
- ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid function, for instance: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, and salts thereof, - ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising at least one tertiary amine function, for instance 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, dimethyl- aminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate and dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, and salts thereof, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C(CH3)-C00R6 in which R6 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group, the said alkyl group being substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups (for instance 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and halogen atoms (CI, Br, I or F) , such as trifluoroethyl methacrylate, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COORg, Rg representing a linear or branched Cβ to Cι2 alkyl group in which one or more hetero atoms chosen from 0, N and S is (are) optionally intercalated, the said alkyl group being substituted with one or more
substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (CI, Br, I or F); - acrylates of formula CH2 = CHCOORio,
Rio representing a linear or branched Ci to Ci2 alkyl group substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (CI, Br, I or F) , such as 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or Rχ0 represents a Ci to Cχ2 alkyl-O-POE (polyoxyethylene) with repetition of the oxyethylene unit 5 to 30 times, for example methoxy-POE, or R8 represents a polyoxyethylene group containing from 5 to 30 ethylene oxide units b) ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprising one or more silicon atoms, such as methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane and methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, - and mixtures thereof. Additional monomers that are particularly preferred are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and trifluoroethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, the block polymer is a non-silicone polymer, i.e. a polymer free of silicon atoms. This or these additional monomer (s) generally represent (s) an amount of less than or equal to 30% by weight, for example from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferably
from 7% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first and/or second blocks. Preferably, each of the first and second blocks comprises at least one monomer chosen from (meth) acrylic acid esters, and optionally at least one monomer chosen from (meth) acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, each of the first and second blocks is derived entirely from at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, (meth) acrylic acid esters and optionally from at least one monomer chosen from (meth) acrylic acid, and mixtures thereof. The block polymer may be obtained by free- radical solution polymerization according to the following preparation process: a portion of the polymerization solvent is introduced into a suitable reactor and heated until the adequate temperature for the polymerization is reached (typically between 60 and 120°C) , - once this temperature is reached, the constituent monomers of the first block are introduced in the presence of some of the polymerization initiator, after a time T corresponding to a maximum degree of conversion of 90%, the constituent monomers of the second block and the rest of the initiator are introduced,
the mixture is left to react for a time T' (ranging from 3 to 6 hours), after which the mixture is cooled to room temperature, the polymer dissolved in the polymerization solvent is obtained. The term polymerization solvent means a solvent or a mixture of solvents. The polymerization solvent may be chosen in particular from ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, alcohols such as isopropanol, ethanol, aliphatic alkanes such as isododecane and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polymerization solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate and isopropanol or isododecane. First embodiment According to a first embodiment, the block polymer comprises a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, as described above in a) and a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, as described above in b) . Preferably, the first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C is a copolymer derived from monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40 °C, such as the monomers described above. Advantageously, the second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C is a homopolymer derived
from monomers which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, such as the monomers described above. Preferably, the proportion of the block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C ranges from 20% to 90%, better still from 30% to 80% and even better still from 50% to 70% by weight of the polymer. Preferably, the proportion of the block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C ranges from 5% to 75%, preferably from 15% to 50% and better still from 25% to 45% by weight of the polymer. Advantageously, the block polymer may comprise: - a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, for example ranging from 85 to 115°C, which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate copolymer, - a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, for example ranging from -85 to -55°C, which is a 2-ethylhexyl acrylate homopolymer, and - an intermediate block, which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random copolymer. Second embodiment According to a second embodiment, the block polymer comprises a first block having a glass
transition temperature (Tg) of between 20 and 40°C, in accordance with the blocks described in c) and a second block having a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, as described above in b) or a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40°C, as described in a) above. Preferably, the proportion of the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 °C ranges from 10% to 85%, better still from 30% to 80% and even better still from 50% to 70% by weight of the polymer. When the second block is a block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, it is preferably present in a proportion ranging from 10% to 85% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% and even better still from 30% to 70% by weight of the polymer. When the second block is a block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C, it is preferably present in a proportion ranging from 10% to 85% by weight, better still from 20% to 70% and even better still from 20% to 50% by weight of the polymer. Preferably, the first block with a Tg of between 20 and 40 °C is a copolymer derived from monomers which are such that the corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, and from monomers which are such that the corresponding homopolymer has a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C. Advantageously, the second block with a Tg of
less than or equal to 20 °C or with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 °C is a homopolymer. According to a first variant, the block polymer comprises: - a first block with a Tg of between 20 and
40 °C, for example with a Tg of 21 to 39°C, which is a copolymer comprising isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate, - a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20 °C, for example ranging from -65 to -35 °C, which is a methyl methacrylate homopolymer, and - an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random copolymer. According to a second variant, the polymer according to the invention may comprise: - a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, for example ranging from 85 to 115°C, which is an isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate copolymer, - a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, for example ranging from -35 to -5°C, which is an isobutyl acrylate homopolymer, and - an intermediate block which is an isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random copolymer. According to a third variant, the polymer
according to the invention may comprise: - a first block with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40°C, for example ranging from 60 to 90°C, which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate copolymer, - a second block with a Tg of less than or equal to 20°C, for example ranging from -35 to -5°C, which is an isobutyl acrylate homopolymer, and - an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random copolymer. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of two ethylenic block polymers chosen from the polymers described above. The block polymer (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter (or active material) content ranging from 5 to 55%, preferably ranging from 6 to 45% and better still from 8 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2) Anionic and cationic polymers According to the invention, the composition according to the invention can contain any anionic polymer, preferably non-crosslinked, or cationic polymer which is known per se.
These polymers can be used in dissolved form or in the form of aqueous dispersions of solid polymer particles . The anionic polymers generally used can be polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid and can have a weight- average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 000 000.
1) The carboxylic groups can be borne by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to formula (I) below:
in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A denotes' a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighbouring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a hetero atom such as oxygen or sulphur, R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R
3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R
4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CH
2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group. In the abovementioned formula, the expression "lower alkyl radical" preferably denotes a group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl.
The anionic polymers containing carboxylic groups which are preferred according to the invention are:
A) Homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof (in particular alkali metal, alkaline- earth metal or ammonium salts) and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol E or K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold by the company BASF and Darvan 7 by the company Nanderbilt . The copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten 421, 423 or 425 by the company Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters. These copolymers can be grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent application 2 330 956. Mention may be made in particular of copolymers whose chain comprises an optionally Ν-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit, such as those described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or sold under the name Quadramer by the company American Cyanamid. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of Cι~C4 alkyl
methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of (meth) acrylic acid and of (meth) acrylate of a Cι-C0 alkyl, for example of lauryl (such as the product sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone LM) , of tert-butyl (Luviflex VMB 70 sold by BASF) or of methyl (Stepanhold Extra sold by Stepan) and methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Luvimer 100 P by the company BASF. C) Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those whose chain comprises vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allylic or methallylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid containing a long hydrocarbon-based chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be optionally grafted, or alternatively a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an - or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents 1 222 944,
1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and
2 439 798. Commercial products falling within this category are the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by the company National Starch. D) Copolymers derived from monounsaturated C4-C8 carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: - copolymers comprising (i) one or more
maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenyl vinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 113 and GB patent 839 805, and in particular those sold under the names Gantrez AN or ES and Avantage CP by the company ISP. - copolymers comprising (i) one or more, maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allylic or methallylic esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. These polymers are described, for example, in
French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the
Applicant.
E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups, - and mixtures thereof. 2) The polymers comprising sulphonic groups can be polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic,
naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units or alternatively sulphonic polyesters. These polymers can be chosen in particular from: - polyvinylsulphonic acid salts with a weight-average molecular weight of between about 1000 and 100 000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, as well as acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone; - polystyrenesulphonic acid salts, the sodium salts having a weight-average molecular weight of about 500 000 and of about 100 000, sold, respectively, under the names Flexan 500 and Flexan 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719; - polyacrylamide sulphonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US patent 4 128 631 and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180 by Henkel; - sulphonic polyesters bearing at least one group -S03M with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion. The copolyester can be, for example, a copolymer of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol and of at least one difunctional aromatic monomer bearing a group -S03M
with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion. The dicarboxylic acid can be chosen from phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid. The diol can be chosen from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1,4-cyclo- hexanedimethanol and 1, 4-butanediol. The difunctional aromatic monomer bearing the group -S03M can be chosen from sulphoisophthalic acid, in particular the sodium salt of 5-sulphoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene- 2, 7-dicarboxylic acid. A preferred polyester which can be used is a polyester consisting essentially of repeating units of isophthalic acid, of diol and of sulphoisophthalic acid, and in particular the sulphopolyesters obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, of cyclohexane- dimethanol, of isophthalic acid and of sulphoisophthalic acid. Sulphonic polyesters which can be used are those sold under the names AQ55S, AQ38S and AQ29S by the company Eastman. An anionic polymer which can also be used is (deoxy) ribonucleic acid. According to the invention, the anionic polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/ N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular
under the name Ultrahold Strong by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives or acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/ monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez by the company ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit L by the company Rohm Pharma, the methacrylic acid/methyl methacrylate/Cl-C4 alkyl acrylate/acrylic acid or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl methacrylate copolymers sold in the form of dispersions under the name Amerhold DR 25 by the company Amerchol or under the name Acudyne 255 by the company Rohm & Haas, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate/ crotonic acid copolymers and vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex A by the company BASF, the acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers sold, for example, under the name Versicol E 5 or poly (sodium
methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and mixtures thereof. The anionic polymers which are more particularly preferred are chosen from non-crosslinked anionic polymers such as the methyl vinyl ether/ monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert- butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/ acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP and the acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers sold, for example, under the name Versicol E 5 or poly (sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, it is also possible to use anionic polymers in latex or
pseudolatex form, i.e. in the form of a dispersion of insoluble polymer particles.
3) According to the invention, it is also possible to use anionic polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0 582 152 and WO 93/23009 and US patents 4 693 935, 4 728 571 and 4 972 037. Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers which can be obtained by radical polymerization from a monomer mixture consisting of: a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate; b) 1 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula (II) : o CH, CH, CH, II I 3 CH2=C-C—O (CH2 2)';3 •S Ii- -Si—0 ■S Ii <CHZ)3— CH3 I CH, CH, CH, CH, (II) with v being a number ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
One family of silicone polymers containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers which is particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention consists of silicone polymers whose structure comprises the unit of formula (III) below: (-Si—0-), (-Si-O-Jj—(-SI-0-),c (G2)-S-G3 Gi (G2>m-S-G4 (m)
in which the radicals Gi, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C3.0 alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350; c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0. Preferably, the unit of formula (III) above has at least one, and even more 'preferably all, of the following characteristics: - the radicals Gi denote a C1-C10 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical;
- n is non-zero and the radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer such as a carboxylic acid containing ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid; - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer such as a C1-C10 alkyl (meth) acrylate, preferably isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate. Preferably, the unit of formula (III) above can also have all of the following characteristics: - the radicals Gi denote an alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical; - n is non-zero and the radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer such as a carboxylic acid containing ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid; - c is equal to zero. Examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) onto which
are grafted, via a connecting member of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly (alkyl (meth) acrylate) type, such as poly (isobutyl (meth) acrylate) . The grafted silicone polymers of formula
(III) of polymethyl/methylsiloxane structure containing 3-thiopropyl polymethacrylic acid groups and 3-thio- propyl polymethyl methacrylate groups and the grafted silicone polymers of formula (III) of polymethyl/ methylsiloxane structure containing 3-thiopropyl polyacrylic acid groups are particularly used. According to the invention, the anionic polymer (s) can be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cationic polymers which can^be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se, and in particular from those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863. Even more generally, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer"
denotes any polymer containing cationic groups or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or can be borne by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto. The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 x 106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3 x 106 approximately. Among the cationic polymers which may be mentioned more particularly are polymers such as polyamines, polyaminoamides and polyquaternary ammoniums. These are known products. One family of cationic polymers is the family of silicone cationic polymers. Among these, polymers which may be mentioned are: (a) the silicone polymers corresponding to formula
(IV) below:
Rδ aG5 3-a-Si(OSiG6 2)n-(OSiG7 bR7 2-b)m-0-SiG8 3-a,-R8 aJ (IV) in which:
G5, G6, G7 and G8, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or OH group, a Ci-Cis alkyl group, for example methyl, a C2-Cι8 alkenyl group or a Ci-Cia alkoxy group,
a and a', which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular
0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to
150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10,
R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qOsR9tL in which q is a number from 1 to 8, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, R9 denotes an optionally hydroxylated alkylene group and L is an optionally quatemized amino group chosen from the groups:
-NR"-CH2-CH2-N' (R")2
-N(R")2 -NΦ(R")3A"
-N®H(R")2A"
-NΘH2(R")A"
-N (R") -CH2-CH2-NΘR"H2A", in which R" can denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based radical, for example an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon
atoms, and A" represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. Products corresponding to this definition are, for example, the polysiloxanes referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone" and corresponding to formula (V) below:
in which x' and y' are integers dependent on the molecular weight, generally such that the said molecular weight is between 5000 and 20 000 approximately. One product corresponding to formula (IV) is the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VI) :
in which n and m have the meanings given above for formula (IV) .
A commercial product corresponding to this definition is a mixture (90/10 by weight) of a polydimethylsiloxane containing aminoethyl aminoiso- butyl groups and of a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company Dow Corning. Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-95238. Other polymers corresponding to formula (IV) are the silicone polymers corresponding to formula (VII) below:
Rio represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-Cιs alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
Rii represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent
Ci-Cis, for example Cι-C8, alkylenoxy radical; Q~ is halide ion, in particular chloride; r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value from 20 to
200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
Such polymers are described more particularly in US patent 4 185 087.
(b) the compounds of formula: NH- [ (CH2) 3-Si [OSi (CH3) 3] ] 3 corresponding to the CTFA name "aminobispropyl- dimethicone" . One polymer falling within this category is the polymer sold by the company Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56". When these silicone polymers are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment is their joint use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants. It is possible, for example, to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 929" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant, comprising a mixture of products corresponding to formula (VIII)
in which R
12 denotes alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, derived from tallow fatty acids, in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula:
CgHιg-C6H4- ( OC2H4 ) ιo-OH known under the name "Nonoxynol 10". Another commercial product which can be used according to the invention is the product sold under
the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning comprising, in combination, trimethylsilyl- amodi ethicone of formula (IV) , a nonionic surfactant of formula: C8Hι-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) n-OH in which n = 40, also known as octoxynol-40, another nonionic surfactant of formula: C12H25- (OCH-CH2) n-OH in which n = 6, also known as isolaureth-6, and glycol. The polymers of polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium type which can be used in accordance with the present invention and which can be mentioned in particular are those described in French patents No. 2 505 348 or 2 542 997. Among these, polymers which may be mentioned are: (1) Quatemized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat®" by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734, 755 or HS100, or alternatively the product known as "Copolymer 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573. (2) Cellulose ether derivatives, in particular hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as
quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide (in particular epichlorohydrin) substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, the products sold under the names "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.
(4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307 and more particularly the product sold under the name "Jaguar C.13 S" sold by the company Meyhall. (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these
polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis- unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis- azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative, the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, can be quatemized. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by an alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetri- amine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises
from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl . Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 583 363. Among these, derivatives which may be mentioned more particularly are the adipic acid/ dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (8) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polya ine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1, the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group in the polyaminoamide of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(9) Cyclopolymers of methyldiallylamine or of diallyldimethylammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (IX) or (IX'): 2-
in which formulae k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; Rι
5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; Rι
3 and Rι
4, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or a lower amidoalkyl group, or R
i3 and R
i4 can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Y
~ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate or phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2 080 759 and in its certificate of addition 2 190 406. Mention may be made, for example, of the diallyldimethylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Merck and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name "Merquat 550".
(10) The diquaternary ammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to formula (X) :
in which formula (X) : Ri6, Rι , Ri8 and Rig, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or Rι
6, Rι
7, Ris and Ri , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second hetero atom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Ri6, Rι , is and Rig represent a linear or branched Ci-Cδ alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-0-R
2o~D or -CO-NH-R
20-D group in which R
2o is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Ai and Bi represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and which can contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulphur atoms or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X
" denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; Ai, Ri
6 and Rι
8 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if i denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group (CH2)
n-CO-D-OC- (CH2)
n- in which n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and D denotes : a) a glycol residue of formula: -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: - (CH
2-CH
2-0)
x-CH
2-CH
2- - [CH
2-CH (CH
3) -0]
y-CH
2-CH (CH
3) - in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH- in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon- based radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH
2-CH
2-S-S-CH
2-CH
2-; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-C0-NH-.
Preferably, X
" is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molecular mass generally of between 1000 and 100 000. Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853, 2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020. (11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (XI) :
(XI) in which formula: R
2i
r ^
22 R23 and R
24, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH
2CH
2(OCH
2CH
2)
pOH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R
2ι, R
22, R
23 and R
24 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, X denotes a halogen atom, A
3 denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH
2-CH
2-0-CH
2-CH
2- . Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324. Among the products which may be mentioned, for example, are "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZl" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol .
(12) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and comprising units of formulae (XII), (XIII) and (XIV) below:
(Xii) ( iii) .. (XIV)
λ ' and/or in which the groups R30 independently denote H or CH3, the groups A
2 independently denote a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the groups R
25, R
26 and R
27, which may be identical or different, independently denote an alkyl group of 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical,
the groups R
2s and R
2g represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, X
2 ~ denotes an anion, for example methosulphate or halide, such as chloride or bromide. The comonomer(s) which can be used to prepare the corresponding copolymers belong to the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetoneacrylamides and acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower alkyls, alkyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinylpyrrolidone or vinyl esters. (13) Quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF. (14) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, referred to under the name "Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary. (15) Crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quate ized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization f acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quate ized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. An acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyItrimethylammonium.
chloride crosslinked copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare SC 92" by the company Allied Colloids. A methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride crosslinked homopolymer containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil can also be used. This dispersion is sold under the name "Salcare® SC 95" by the company Allied Colloids. Other cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cyclopolymers, in particular the copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and of acrylamide with a molecular weight greater than 500 000, sold under the names "Merquat® 550" and "Merquat® S" by the company Merck, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly the polymer sold under the name "Jaguar® C13S" by the company Meyhall, and the polyaminoamides of the family (6) described above.
According to the invention, cationic polymers in the form of a latex or a pseudolatex, i.e. in the form of a dispersion of insoluble polymer particles, can also be used. According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cationic charge of the cationic polymer (s) /anionic charge of the anionic polymer (s) ratio, expressed in meq./g, is generally between 0.25 and 5, preferably between 0.5 and 2 and even more preferably between 0.75 and 1.25. The cationic charge is the number of quaternary, tertiary, secondary or primary amine atoms per gram of polymer. Advantageously, the cationic polymer may be a hydroxy (Cι~C) alkylcellulose comprising quaternary ammonium groups, in particular a hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorohydrin quate ized with trimethylamine; the anionic polymer may be a poly (sodium methacrylate) . 3) Cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium The term "organic liquid medium" means a medium containing at least one organic compound that is
liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (10
5 Pa) such as the organic oils and solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the organic liquid medium of the composition contains at least one organic liquid which is the or one of the organic solvent (s) for polymerizing the block polymer as described above. Advantageously, the said organic polymerization solvent is the major organic liquid by weight in the organic liquid medium of the cosmetic composition. The organic liquid medium of the composition may represent from 10 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 90%, and better still from 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The organic oils or solvents can form especially a fatty phase, and in particular a continuous fatty phase. The composition may be an anhydrous composition. The cosmetically acceptable organic liquid medium of the composition advantageously comprises at least one volatile organic solvent or oil defined below. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "volatile organic solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate on contact with the keratin fibre in less than one hour at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, that are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10
~3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10
"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) . These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur or phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Cs-Ci
6 branched alkanes, for instance C
8-Cι
6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C
8-Ci6 branched
esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used. The volatile solvent is preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Volatile oils which may also be used are volatile silicones such as, for example, linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity < 6 centistokes (6 x 10
~6 m
2/s) and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils which may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, deca- methylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexa- siloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl- octyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltri- siloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethyl- pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 95% by weight and preferably from 1 to 65% by weight and better still from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The non-volatile silicone oils which may be
used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) , poly- dimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylsilicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl- siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyl- diphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy- silicates. The fluoro oils which can be used in the composition of the invention are especially fluoro- silicone oils, polyfluoro ethers, fluorosilicones as described in the document EP-A-847752. The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 30% (especially from 0.1 to 30%) by weight, preferably from 0 to 20% by weight (especially 0.1 to 20%) and better still from 0 to 10% by weight (especially 0.1% to 10%), relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the invention, the organic liquid medium of the composition comprises at least one volatile organic oil which is the solvent for polymerizing the block polymer and in which the block polymer is advantageously soluble. Preferably, this volatile organic oil is isododecane. Such a composition
has the advantage of being easy to remove when used as makeup, with a conventional makeup-removing product for waterproof mascaras. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition. The aqueous phase may consist mainly of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and a water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3~C ketones, C
2-C aldehydes and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Wax The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes. The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic
compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 °C, which may be up to 120°C. By bringing the wax to the liquid form (melting) , it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically uniform mixture, but on bringing the mixture back to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 45°C and in particular greater than 55°C. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Metier. The measuring protocol is as follows: A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 0°C to 120 °C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from 0°C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the
crucible containing the sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof. The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 20 °C using a texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylindrical spindle 2 mm in diameter, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measuring protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 °C. The molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours and is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20 °C, before performing the hardness
measurement. The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured, divided by the area of the texturometer spindle in contact with the wax. Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C
8-C
32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may be made especially of hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the partially hydrogenated trans-isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis (1, 1, 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name "Hest 2T-4S" by the company Heterene and bis (1, 1, 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluoro waxes. It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name "Phytowax Olive 18 L 57" or the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the name "Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73" by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190. According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax called "hard wax", which has a hardness of greater than or equal to 6 MPa, especially ranging from 6 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably of greater than or equal to 7 MPa, especially ranging from 7 MPa to 25 MPa, and better still of greater than or equal to 8 MPa, especially from 8 to 25 MPa, even better still of greater than or equal to 9 MPa, for example from 9 to 20 MPa. The hardness of the hard wax is measured according to the same protocol described above. As hard wax, use may be made of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, polyethylene waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, sumac wax, ceresin, octacosanyl stearate, tetra- contanyl stearate, shellac wax, behenyl fumarate, bis (1, 1, 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under
the name "Hest 2T-4S" by the company Heterene, bis (1, 1, 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene, ozokerites such as that sold under the name "Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P" by the company Strahl & Pitsch, the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 by the company Sophi . The hard wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise a total wax content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular it may comprise from 5 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 10' to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The wax(es) may be in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The expression "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of the said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm. Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described
especially in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32. In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of a portion of water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion, with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax colloidal particles is obtained. The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high-pressure homogenizers or turbomixers. The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 μm (especially ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm) and preferably less than 0.5 μm (especially ranging from 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm) . These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise a small proportion of oily and/or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a common liposoluble additive/active agent. The composition according to the invention
may contain at least one fatty compound that is pasty at room temperature. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "pasty fatty substance" means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C, preferably 25 to 45°C, and/or a viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz. A person skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the spindles MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to carry out the measurement of the pasty compound tested. These fatty substances are preferably hydrocarbon-based compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based compounds and/or silicone compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally ester groups) are preferably used in major proportion. Among the pasty compounds which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins or
isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and/or a melting point of from 30 to 55°C, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, in particular those containing from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about from 20 to 35 °C and/or viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s), such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol esters, such as triglycerides of plant origin, such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of pasty silicone fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and having a melting point of 20-55 °C, such as stearyldimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof. The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of from 0.01% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 45% by weight, and better still ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition. The composition according to the invention can contain emulsifying surfactants, present in
particular in a proportion ranging from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 5% to 15%. These surfactants may be chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of the said reference, for the anionic and nonionic surfactants . The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohol, fatty acid esters of sucrose, alkylglucose esters, in particular polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of Ci-Cε alkyl glucose, and mixtures thereof; - anionic surfactants: C
16-C30 fatty acids neutralized with amines, aqueous ammonia or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof. Surfactants that make it possible to obtain an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion are preferably used. The composition may additionally contain at
least one additional nonionic film-forming polymer, different from the block polymer defined above, in a dry matter content which may range from 0% to 15% by weight (especially 0.1% to 15% by weight), and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. As nonionic film-forming polymer, mention may be made for example of - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl- cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylethyl- cellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose; - polymers or copolymers of acrylic esters, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl- pyrrolidones, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; polyvinyl alcohol; - polyesters, polyamides and epoxy ester resins; - optionally modified polymers of natural origin such as gum Arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; - and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer, which promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any of the compounds
known to those skilled in the art as being capable of satisfying the desired function.
Additives The composition according to the invention may also comprise a dyestuff, for instance pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
This dyestuff may be present in a content ranging from
0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres. The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments which may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium. The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium
mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice, methylene blue, the disodium salt of ponceau, the disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, the trisodium salt of amaranthus, the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, and xanthophyll. The fillers may be chosen from those that are well known to a person skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powder for instance Nylon® (Orgasol from Atochem) , poly- β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded hollow polymer microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) , acrylic powders such as Polytrap® (Dow Corning) , polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example
Tospearls® from Toshiba) , precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos) , glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate. The fillers may represent from 0.1% to 25% and better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may additionally comprise any additive commonly used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins and mixtures thereof. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, and polymeric or molecular, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents.
Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a Cι0 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name "Bentone 38V®" by the
company Elementis. Mention may also be made of fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. Specifically, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduced number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold, for example, under the references "Aerosil R812®" by the company Degussa, and "Cab-O-Sil TS-530®" by the company Cabot; - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold, for example, under the references "Aerosil R972®" and "Aerosil R974®" by the company Degussa, and "Cab-O-Sil TS-610®" and "Cab-0- Sil TS-720®" by the company Cabot.
The hydrophobic fumed silica particularly has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three- dimensional structure, for instance those sold under the names "KSG6®", "KSG16®" and "KSG18®" from Shin-Etsu, "Trefil E-505C®" and "Trefil E-506C®" from Dow Corning, "Gransil SR-CYC®", "SR DMF 10®", "SR-DC556®", "SR 5CYC gel®", "SR DMF 10 gel®" and "SR DC 556 gel®" from Grant Industries and "SF 1204®" and "JK 113®" from General Electric; ethylcellulose, for instance that sold under the name "Ethocel®" by Dow Chemical and galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with Ci to C5, and in particular Ci to C3, alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof. The "diblock" or "triblock" type block copolymers of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name "Luvitol HSB®" by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name "Kraton®" by the company Shell Chemical Co or of the polystyrene/ copoly (ethylene-butylene) type.
Among the lipophilic gelling agents which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names "Rheopearl TL®" or "Rheopearl KL®" by the company Chiba Flour. The composition according to the invention advantageously has a dry matter content of greater than or equal to 45%, preferably of greater than 46%, better still of greater than or equal to 47%, even better still of greater than 48%, preferably still of greater than or equal to 50%, possibly ranging up to 60%. Protocol for measuring the dry matter content or dry extract The dry matter content, i.e. the non-volatile matter content, may be measured in different ways, mention may be made for example of the methods of drying in an oven, the methods of drying by exposure to infrared radiation and chemical methods by titration of water according to Karl Fischer. Preferably, the dry extract of the compositions according to the invention is measured on a Mettler Toledo HG 53 balance (Halogen Moisture Analyzer) . A mascara sample (2-3 g) is deposited in an aluminium dish and subjected to a temperature of 120 °C for 60 minutes. The measurement of the dry extract
corresponds to the monitoring of the mass of the sample as a function of time. The final solids content is therefore the percentage of the final mass (after 60 min) relative to the initial mass: DE = (final mass/initial mass) x 100. Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition envisaged. The composition according to the invention may be manufactured by known processes generally used in the cosmetic field. The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a cosmetic set comprising a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises the said composition, the said container being closed by a closing member. The container is preferably combined with an applicator, especially in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described especially in patent US 4 887 622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application members, obtained especially by moulding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR
2 796 529. The applicator may be integrally attached to the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959. Advantageously, the applicator is integrally attached to a rod which is itself integrally attached to the closing member. The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by tightening. The term "click-fastening" in particular means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unconstrained position of the said portion after the crossing of the bead or cord. The container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non thermoplastic material, especially glass or metal (or alloy) . The container is preferably equipped with a drainer arranged in the region of the aperture of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be
integrally attached. Such a drainer is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618. The content of the patents or patent applications cited above are incorporated by reference into the present application. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a mascara. The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples. The quantities are given in grams.
Example 1: Preparation of a pol (isobornyl acrylate/ isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate) polymer 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor, and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25°C) to 90°C in 1 hour. 120 g of isobornyl acrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of 2,5- bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5-dimethylhexane
(Trigonox® 141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90 °C and over 1 hour. The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90°C. 90 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5- dimethylhexane are then introduced into the preceding
mixture, still at 90 °C and over 30 minutes. The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90 °C, and then the whole is cooled. A solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A polymer comprising a poly (isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 80 °C, a poly (2-ethylhexyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -70 °C and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/
2-ethylhexyl acrylate random polymer is obtained. This polymer has a weight-average mass of 77 000 g/Mol and a number-average mass of 19 000, i.e. a polydispersity index I of 4.05. Example 2: Preparation of a poly(isobornyl acrylate/ isobornyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate) polymer 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor, and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25°C) to 90°C in 1 hour. 105 g of isobornyl acrylate, 105 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox® 141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90 °C and over 1 hour. The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90°C.
90 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5- dimethylhexane are then introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90 °C and over 30 minutes. The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at
90 °C, and then the whole is cooled. A solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A polymer comprising a poly (isobornyl acrylate/isobornyl methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 110°C, a poly (2-ethylhexyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -70 °C and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobornyl methacrylate/ 2-ethylhexyl acrylate random polymer is obtained. This polymer has a weight-average mass of
103 900 g/Mol and a number-average mass of 21 300, i.e. a polydispersity index I of 4.89. Example 3: Preparation of a poly (isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate) polymer 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor, and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25°C) to 90°C in 1 hour. 120 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2 , 5-dimethylhexane
(Trigonox® 141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90 °C and over 1 hour. The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90°C. 90 g of isobutyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5- dimethylhexane are then introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90 °C and over 30 minutes. The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90 °C, and then the whole is cooled. A solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A polymer comprising a poly (isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 95°C, a poly (isobutyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -20°C and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl methacrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate random polymer is obtained. This polymer has a weight-average mass of 100 700 g/Mol and a number-average mass of 20 800, i.e. a polydispersity index I of 4.85.
Example 4: Preparation of a poly (isobornyl acrylate/ isobutyl methacrylate/isobutyl acrylate) polymer 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor, and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25°C) to 90°C in 1 hour.
120 g of isobornyl acrylate, 90 g of isobutyl methacrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox® 141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90°C and over 1 hour. The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90°C. 90 g of isobutyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5- dimethylhexane are then introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90°C and over 30 minutes. The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90 °C, and then the whole is cooled. A solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A polymer comprising a poly (isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate) first block with a Tg of 75°C, a poly (isobutyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -20 °C and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/ isobutyl acrylate random polymer is obtained. This polymer has a weight-average mass of 144 200 g/Mol and a number-average mass of 49 300, i.e. a polydispersity index I of 2.93. The following polymer may be prepared. Example 5: Preparation of a poly (isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylat /2-ethylhexyl acrylate)
polymer 100 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1 litre reactor, and then the temperature is increased so as to pass from room temperature (25°C) to 90°C in 1 hour. 54 g of isobornyl acrylate, 75.6 g of isobutyl methacrylate, 50.4 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 110 g of isododecane and 1.8 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2, 5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox® 141 from Akzo Nobel) are then added at 90 °C and over 1 hour. The mixture is maintained for 1 h 30 min at 90°C. 120 g of 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 90 g of isododecane and 1.2 g of 2, 5-bis (2-ethylhexanoyl- peroxy) -2, 5-dimethylhexane are then introduced into the preceding mixture, still at 90 °C and over 1 hour. The mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 90°C, and then the whole is cooled. A solution containing 50% polymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A polymer comprising a poly (isobornyl acrylate/isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate) first block with a Tg of 25°C, a poly (2-ethylhexyl acrylate) second block with a Tg of -50°C and an intermediate block which is an isobornyl acrylate/ isobutyl methacrylate/2-ethylhexyl acrylate random polymer is obtained.
Examples 6 to 8 : Mascara emulsion
a.m.*: active material For each composition, the dry extract is determined according to the method indicated above, the
charge in vitro and the staying power. The charge in vitro is measured by gravimetry on specimens of curled Caucasian hair (30 hair strands 1 cm long spread over a distance of 1 cm) . The specimen is made up by carrying out 3 x
10 passages of mascara 2 minutes apart with collection of product between each series of 10. The specimen is dried for 10 min at room temperature and then weighed. This measurement is performed on 6 specimens. The charge is in fact the quantity of material deposited on the specimen = mass of specimen made up - bare specimen mass. The mean charge is the mean of the measurements carried out on the 6 specimens. The staying power of the film formed by the composition according to the invention is evaluated by measuring the water resistance, as a function of time, of a film of composition spread onto a glass plate and subjected to stirring in aqueous medium. The protocol is as follows: At ambient temperature (25°C), a layer of composition 300 μm thick (before drying) with a surface area of 9 cm x 9 cm is spread onto a glass plate with a surface area of 10 cm x 10 cm, and is then left to dry for 24 hours at 30 °C and 50% relative humidity. After drying, the plate is placed in a 2 litre crystallizing
dish 19 cm in diameter, filled with 1 litre of water and placed on a heating magnetic stirrer sold under the name RCT basic by the company IKA Labortechnik. A smooth cylindrical PTFE magnetic bar (6 cm long; 1 cm diameter) is then placed on the film. The stirring speed is set to position 5. The water temperature is controlled using a thermometer to a temperature of 20°C or 40°C. At time to = 0, the stirring is started. The time t (expressed in minutes) after which the film begins to detach or debond from the plate or when a hole the size of the stirring magnetic bar is observed, i.e. when the hole has a diameter of 6 cm, is measured. The water resistance of the film corresponds to the time t measured. The results which follow were obtained.
These mascaras have a good staying power and a high charge in vitro. After application to the eyelashes, they are judged as conferring a good
charging and lengthening effect on the said eyelashes. Example 9: Mascara emulsion
Beeswax 8
Paraffin wax 7 Carnauba wax 5
Block polymer of Example 4 5 a.m.
Isododecane 5
Stearic acid 5.8
Neutralizing agents 2.9 Black iron oxide 8
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.9
Gum Arabic 3.4
Sodium polymethacrylate 1 ("Darvan 7" from Vanderbilt) Quatemized hydroxyethylcellulose 0.1 ("Celquat SC 240C" from National Starch)
Water qs 100