WO2005034893A1 - Cosmetic compositions containing an aminated silicone and a thickening agent with at least one sugar moiety and use therof - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions containing an aminated silicone and a thickening agent with at least one sugar moiety and use therof Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005034893A1
WO2005034893A1 PCT/FR2004/002541 FR2004002541W WO2005034893A1 WO 2005034893 A1 WO2005034893 A1 WO 2005034893A1 FR 2004002541 W FR2004002541 W FR 2004002541W WO 2005034893 A1 WO2005034893 A1 WO 2005034893A1
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composition
composition according
chosen
weight
alkyl
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PCT/FR2004/002541
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French (fr)
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Catherine Campain
Anne Sabbagh
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one particular amino silicone and at least one thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit, a treatment of keratin materials using said cosmetic composition as well as the use of said composition for the care of keratin materials.
  • oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, give rise, through a process of oxidative condensation, to colored compounds. It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers.
  • the variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows obtaining a rich palette of colors. It is also known to dye human keratin fibers by direct coloring.
  • the method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for the fibers, to leave on, then to rinse the fibers.
  • the resulting colorings are particularly chromatic colors which are however temporary or semi-permanent because the nature of the interactions which bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber, and their desorption from the surface and / or from the core of the fiber are responsible for their low dyeing power and their poor resistance to washing.
  • the artificial hair color provided by a direct dyeing or oxidation treatment gradually fades due to repeated washing and leads over time to a fading of the coloring of the hair.
  • the use of rinsed and leave-in treatments does not improve the staying power of the artificial hair color. It is therefore necessary to develop means making it possible to protect the artificial color from the effect of repeated washing and from the effect of time.
  • the Applicant has now discovered that the combination of a particular amino silicone with thickening agents comprising at least one sugar unit makes it possible to remedy these drawbacks due to a synergistic effect.
  • Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating keratin materials such as the hair, consisting in the application to said materials of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials and in particular the hair comprises in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amino silicone chosen from copolyols of dimethicone bisamino hydroxyalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) dihydroxyalkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) neutralized and a thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit.
  • the term “keratin materials” means the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp and more particularly the hair.
  • said amino silicone is a copolyol whose INCI name is: Dimethicone Bisamino Hydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl Copolyol neutralized.
  • the composition preferably contains a Cs-C 30 fatty acid ester, and more particularly triethanolamine stearate.
  • a product containing particular amino silicones mentioned above is offered by the company Crompton under the name Silsoft® A-454.
  • the commercial products corresponding to these particular silicones can include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different, cited above.
  • the term “thickening agent” means any agent having the function of increasing the viscosity of the composition, compared with an identical composition not containing this agent.
  • the thickening agent contains at least one sugar unit.
  • sugar unit means: a monosaccharide portion, ie a monosaccharide or oside or simple sugar, or an oligosaccharide portion, that is to say short chains formed from the chain of monosaccharide units, possibly different, or a polysaccharide portion, that is to say long chains made up of monosaccharide units, possibly different, ie polyholosides or polysaccharides (homopolyosides or heteropolyosides).
  • the saccharide units can also be substituted by alkyl, or hydroxyalkyl, or alkoxy, or acyloxy, or carboxyl radicals, the alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit which can be used according to the present invention are preferably polymers chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches
  • mannan xylan, lignin, araban, galactan, galacturonan, chitin, chitosan, glucoronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gums from plant exudates such as gum arabic, ghatti, karaya, tragacanth, carrageenan, agar and carob, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar) and biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof.
  • galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar) and biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as s
  • the compounds of this type which can be used in the present invention are chosen from those which are in particular described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in” Polymers in Nature, by EA MacGREGOR and CT
  • Guar gums can be modified or unmodified. Unmodified guar gums are for example the products sold under the name NIDOGUM GH 175 by the company U ⁇ IPECTI ⁇ E, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL.
  • the modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified by C ⁇ -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • hydroxyalkyl groups mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • These guar gums are well known in the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting oxides of corresponding alkenes, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the rate of hydroxyalkylation which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of functions free hydroxyls present on guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.
  • Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8,
  • Biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, gums from plant exudates such as Arabian gums, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth, Carrageenan, Agar and Carob, hydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses , pectins, alginates and starches are well known to those skilled in the art and described in particular in the work by Robert L.
  • scleroglucans are represented by the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and in particular ACTIGUM CS 11 and under the name AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL.
  • Other scleroglucans such as that treated with glyoxal in French patent application No. 2633940 can also be used.
  • Xanthans are represented by the products sold under the names KELTROL, ELTROL T, KELTROL TF, KELTROL BT, KELTROL RD, KELTROL CG by the company NUTRASWEET KELCO, or under the names RHODICARE S, RHODICARE H by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
  • the starch derivatives mention may, for example, be made of diamidon phosphate and the product sold under the name Primogel by the company Anbe.
  • celluloses hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses are used in particular.
  • hydroxyalkyl (C ⁇ -C5) celluloses are more particularly hydroxyethylcelluloses such as those sold under the names CELLOSIZE QP3L, CELLOSIZE QP4400H, CELLOSIZE QP30000H,
  • CELLOSIZE HEC30000A CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG10, by the company AMERCHOL, or NATROSOL 250HHR, NATRO SOL 250MR, NATROSOL 250M, NATROSOL 250HHXR, NATROSOL 250HHX, NATROSOL 250HR, NATROSOL HX, by the company HERCULESH000, or even by HERCULESH.
  • carboxyalkyl (C ⁇ -C6) celluloses carboxymethylcellulose is preferably used, the products sold under the names BLANOSE 7M8 / SF, BLANOSE REFINED 7M, BLANOSE 7LF, BLANOSE 7MF, BLANOSE 9M31F, BLANOSE 12M31XP, BLANOSE 12M3 being preferably used , BLANOSE 9M31 XF, BLANOSE 7H,
  • the thickening agent (s) may represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to
  • compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between
  • This surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof.
  • the surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
  • Anionic Surfactant (s):
  • the salts in particular alkali salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts
  • anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, (C 6 -C 4 ) aryl ether carboxylic acids.
  • polyoxyalkylenated, (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactants it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and of alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.
  • Nonionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 1 16-178).
  • polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which can range in particular from
  • polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide
  • fatty acid esters of sorbitan oxyethylenated having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide
  • sucrose fatty acid esters polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (C ⁇ Q - C14) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
  • alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which are particularly well within the scope of the present invention.
  • the amphoteric surfactants can be in particular (nonlimiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 atoms of carbon and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyls (C 8 -C 2 o) amidoalkyl (C ⁇ -C 6 ) betaines or alkyl (C 8 -C 20 ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C 6 ) sulfobetaines.
  • the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 atoms of carbon and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate,
  • R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R 3 ) (R 4 ) (CH 2 COO-) (II) in which: R denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R 2 -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R a carboxymethyl group; and R 5 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (C) (III) in which: B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ', C represents - (CH 2 ) Z -Y', with z 1 or 2 , X 'denotes the group -CH 2 CH -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y' denotes -COOH or the
  • Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodip ⁇ opionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
  • Cationic surfactants can be chosen from: A) the quaternary ammonium salts of the following general formula (IV):
  • - X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulfates, more particularly methylsulfate, phosphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, - the radicals R Î to R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl.
  • the aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are for example chosen from the alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide radicals, R denotes a radical alkyl, linear or branched, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyl trimethyl ammonium.
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl.
  • the aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 3 and R 4 , identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function.
  • R 3 and R are especially chosen from (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl amido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 2 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate radicals;
  • the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium.
  • R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 alkyl radical ! -C 4 or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • X is a anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 7 denotes methyl, R 8 denotes hydrogen.
  • a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO,
  • R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 10 , Ru, R 12 , R 13 and Rj, identical or different are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 atoms carbon
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates.
  • Such quaternary diammonium salts include in particular propane diammonium dichloride.
  • Ri 8 denotes R22- Use is made more particularly of the ammonium salts of formula (Nile) in which: - Ri 5 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1; - z is 0 or 1; - n, p and r are equal to 2; - Ri g is chosen from: the radical R 1 -CO-, the methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon radicals the hydrogen atom; - Ri 7, i 9 and R2 I 5 identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - R g is chosen from: the radical R 1 -CO-, the hydrogen atom.
  • Nile ammonium salts of formula (Nile) in which: - Ri 5 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1; - z is 0 or 1; -
  • Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART by the company COG ⁇ IS, STEPA ⁇ QUAT by the company STEPA ⁇ , ⁇ OXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
  • behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is preferred, or alternatively, stearamidopropyldimethyl chloride (myristyl acetate) ammonium sold under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the company NA ⁇ DYK, Quaternium-27 or Quaternium-83 marketed by the company WITCO.
  • anionic surfactant sodium (triethanolamine or ammonium) (C 12 -C 14 ) alkyl sulfates, sodium (triethanolamine or ammonium 2-oxyethylenated (C 12 -C 1 ) alkyl sulfates , 2 moles of ethylene oxide, cocoyl sodium isethionate and alpha-olefin (C 1 -C 16 ) sodium sulfonate and their mixtures with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate sold in particular by the company
  • MIRANOL® C2M CONC aqueous solution containing 38% of active material or under the name MIRANOL® C32; - or an amphoteric surfactant such as alkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine sold under the name
  • composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from dandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, perfumes, pearlescent agents, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, preservatives, solar filters, silicone or not, vitamins, provitamins such as as panthenol, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, synthetic oils such as polyolefins, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluorinated oils or perfluorinated, natural or synthetic waxes, ceramide-type compounds, esters of carboxylic acids, silicones other than those of formula (I) as well as mixtures of these different compounds and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention.
  • additives chosen from dandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, perfumes, pearlescent agents, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, preservatives, solar filters, silicone or not, vitamins, provitamins such
  • compositions according to the invention are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the quantity of each additive is easily determined by a person skilled in the art according to its nature and its function.
  • the subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the hair, consisting in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above, then optionally rinsing with water.
  • this method according to the invention makes it possible to protect the artificial color of the hair or of any other keratin material.
  • the compositions of the invention may also be in the form of a shampoo, conditioner to rinse off or not, of composition for coloring or also in the form of composition to rinse to be applied before or after coloring.
  • compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam.
  • the compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or in aerosol containers to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in foam form.
  • composition (1) The applicant has formulated the following composition (1)
  • the composition is applied to locks of colored hair with the Majirouge 6.64 oxidation dye sold by the company L 'Oréal.
  • the application of the composition (1) is carried out on locks of clean, damp hair, without rinsing or setting time, the locks are then dried with a helmet for 30 minutes at 60 ° C.
  • Four shampoos carried out with DOP shampoos marketed by the company L 'Oréal were carried out with intermediate drying.
  • the locks treated with the composition (1) were judged to be less washed out than the locks not treated by a panel of experts.

Abstract

The invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratin fibres and, more particularly, hair, comprising at least one aminated silicone in a cosmetically-acceptable medium, selected from the neutralised dimethicone bisamino C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl C2-C6 dihydroxyalkyl copolyols and at least one thickening agent with at least one sugar moiety. The invention further relates to a method for the treatment of keratin material using said cosmetic composition and the use of said composition for the care of keratin fibers.

Description

Composition cosmétique contenant une silicone aminée et un agent épaississant comportant au moins un motif sucre et leurs utilisations Cosmetic composition containing an amino silicone and a thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit and their uses
La présente invention concerne de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable au moins une silicone aminée particulière et au moins un agent épaississant comportant au moins un motif sucre, un traitement des matières kératiniques mettant en œuvre ladite composition cosmétique ainsi que l'utilisation de ladite composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques. Il est connu de teindre les fibres kératiniques humaines et en particulier les cheveux avec des compositions tinctoriales contenant des précurseurs de colorant d'oxydation, appelés généralement bases d'oxydation. Ces bases d'oxydation sont des composés incolores ou faiblement colorés qui, associés à des produits oxydants, donnent naissance par un processus de condensation oxydative à des composés colorés. On sait également que l'on peut faire varier les nuances obtenues avec ces bases d'oxydation en les associant à des coupleurs ou modificateurs de coloration. La variété des molécules mises en jeu au niveau des bases d'oxydation et des coupleurs permet l'obtention d'une riche palette de couleurs. Il est aussi connu de teindre les fibres kératiniques humaines par une coloration directe. Le procédé classiquement utilisé en coloration directe consiste à appliquer sur les fibres kératiniques des colorants directs qui sont des molécules colorées et colorantes ayant une affinité pour les fibres, à laisser poser, puis à rincer les fibres. Les colorations qui en résultent sont des colorations particulièrement chromatiques qui sont cependant temporaires ou semi-permanentes car la nature des interactions qui lient les colorants directs à la fibre kératinique, et leur désorption de la surface et/ou du cœur de la fibre sont responsables de leur faible puissance tinctoriale et de leur mauvaise tenue aux lavages. La couleur artificielle des cheveux apportée par un traitement de coloration directe ou d'oxydation s'estompe progressivement du fait des lavages répétés et conduit dans le temps à un affadissement de la coloration des cheveux. L'utilisation de soins rincés et non rincés n'améliore pas la tenue de la couleur artificielle des cheveux. Il est donc nécessaire de mettre au point des moyens permettant de protéger la couleur artificielle de l' effet des lavages répétés et de l' effet du temps. La Demanderesse a maintenant découvert que la combinaison d'une silicone aminée particulière avec des agents épaississants comportant au moins un motif sucre permet de remédier à ces inconvénients du fait d'un effet de synergie. Un autre objet de l'invention concerne un procédé de traitement des matières kératiniques telles que les cheveux consistant en l'application sur lesdites matières des compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention. Un autre objet de l'invention concerne l'utilisation de ladite composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques. D'autres objets, caractéristiques, aspects et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront encore plus clairement à la lecture de la description et des divers exemples qui suivent. Selon l'invention, la composition cosmétique pour le traitement des matières kératiniques et en particulier les cheveux comprend dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins une silicone aminée choisie parmi les copolyols de dimethicone bisamino hydroxyalkyl (en Ci-C ) dihydroxyalkyl(en C2-C6) neutralisés et un agent épaississant comprenant au moins un motif sucre. Selon la présente invention, par "matières kératiniques", on comprend les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils, la peau, les ongles, les muqueuses ou le cuir chevelu et plus particulièrement les cheveux. De préférence, ladite silicone aminée est un copolyol dont le nom INCI est : Dimethicone Bisamino Hydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl Copolyol neutralisé. La composition contient de préférence un ester d' acide gras en Cs-C30, et plus particulièrement le stéarate de triethanolamine. Un produit contenant des silicones aminées particulières citées ci-dessus est proposé par la société Crompton sous la dénomination Silsoft® A-454. Les produits commerciaux correspondant à ces silicones particulières peuvent inclure dans leur composition une ou plusieurs autres silicones aminées dont la structure est différente citée ci- dessus. Dans le cadre de la présente demande, on entend par "agent épaississant", tout agent ayant pour fonction d'augmenter la viscosité de la composition, par rapport à une composition identique ne contenant pas cet agent. Selon la présente invention, l'agent épaississant contient au moins un motif sucre. Par "motif sucre", on désigne au sens de la présente invention : une portion monosaccharidique c' est-à-dire un monosaccharide ou oside ou sucre simple, ou une portion oligosaccharidique c' est-à-dire des chaînes courtes formées de l'enchaînement d'unités monosaccharidiques, éventuellement différentes, ou une portion polysaccharidique c' est-à-dire des longues chaînes constituées d'unités monosaccharidiques, éventuellement différentes, i.e. polyholosides ou polyosides (homopolyosides ou hétéropolyosides). Les unités saccharidiques peuvent être en outre substituées par des radicaux alkyle, ou hydroxyalkyle, ou alcoxy, ou acyloxy, ou carboxyle, les radicaux alkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone. Les polymères épaississants comportant au moins un motif sucre utilisables selon la présente invention sont de préférence des polymères choisis parmi les glucanes, les amidons modifiés ou nonThe present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one particular amino silicone and at least one thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit, a treatment of keratin materials using said cosmetic composition as well as the use of said composition for the care of keratin materials. It is known to dye human keratin fibers and in particular the hair with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, give rise, through a process of oxidative condensation, to colored compounds. It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows obtaining a rich palette of colors. It is also known to dye human keratin fibers by direct coloring. The method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for the fibers, to leave on, then to rinse the fibers. The resulting colorings are particularly chromatic colors which are however temporary or semi-permanent because the nature of the interactions which bind the direct dyes to the keratin fiber, and their desorption from the surface and / or from the core of the fiber are responsible for their low dyeing power and their poor resistance to washing. The artificial hair color provided by a direct dyeing or oxidation treatment gradually fades due to repeated washing and leads over time to a fading of the coloring of the hair. The use of rinsed and leave-in treatments does not improve the staying power of the artificial hair color. It is therefore necessary to develop means making it possible to protect the artificial color from the effect of repeated washing and from the effect of time. The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of a particular amino silicone with thickening agents comprising at least one sugar unit makes it possible to remedy these drawbacks due to a synergistic effect. Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating keratin materials such as the hair, consisting in the application to said materials of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Another subject of the invention relates to the use of said composition for the care of keratin materials. Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow. According to the invention, the cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials and in particular the hair comprises in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amino silicone chosen from copolyols of dimethicone bisamino hydroxyalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) dihydroxyalkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) neutralized and a thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit. According to the present invention, the term “keratin materials” means the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp and more particularly the hair. Preferably, said amino silicone is a copolyol whose INCI name is: Dimethicone Bisamino Hydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl Copolyol neutralized. The composition preferably contains a Cs-C 30 fatty acid ester, and more particularly triethanolamine stearate. A product containing particular amino silicones mentioned above is offered by the company Crompton under the name Silsoft® A-454. The commercial products corresponding to these particular silicones can include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different, cited above. In the context of the present application, the term "thickening agent" means any agent having the function of increasing the viscosity of the composition, compared with an identical composition not containing this agent. According to the present invention, the thickening agent contains at least one sugar unit. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means: a monosaccharide portion, ie a monosaccharide or oside or simple sugar, or an oligosaccharide portion, that is to say short chains formed from the chain of monosaccharide units, possibly different, or a polysaccharide portion, that is to say long chains made up of monosaccharide units, possibly different, ie polyholosides or polysaccharides (homopolyosides or heteropolyosides). The saccharide units can also be substituted by alkyl, or hydroxyalkyl, or alkoxy, or acyloxy, or carboxyl radicals, the alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The thickening polymers comprising at least one sugar unit which can be used according to the present invention are preferably polymers chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches
(tels que ceux issus, par exemple, de céréales comme le blé, le maïs ou le riz, de légumes comme le pois blond, de tubercules comme les pommes de terre ou le manioc), l'amylose, l'amylopectine, le glycogène les dextranes, les celluloses et leurs dérivés(such as those from, for example, cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, vegetables such as blond peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives
(méthylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, éthylhydroxyéthyl celluloses, carboxyméthyl-celluloses), les mannanes, les xylanes, les lignines, les arabanes, les galactanes, les galacturonanes, la chitine, les chitosanes, les glucoronoxylanes, les arabinoxylanes, les xyloglucanes, les glucomannanes, les acides pectiques et les pectines, l'acide alginique et les alginates, les arabinogalactanes, les glycosaminoglucanes, les gommes issues d'exudats végétaux telles que les gommes arabique, ghatti, karaya, tragacanthe, carrageenane, agar et caroube, les galactomannanes telles que les gommes de guar et leurs dérivés non ioniques (hydroxypropyl guar) et les gommes de biopolysaccharides d'origine microbienne telles que les gommes de scléroglucane ou de xanthane, et leurs mélanges. D'une manière générale, les composés de ce type, utilisables dans la présente invention sont choisis parmi ceux qui sont notamment décrits dans "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, et volume 15 , pp 439- 458 ", dans "Polymers in Nature, par E. A. MacGREGOR et C. T.(methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethyl celluloses, carboxymethyl-celluloses), mannan, xylan, lignin, araban, galactan, galacturonan, chitin, chitosan, glucoronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gums from plant exudates such as gum arabic, ghatti, karaya, tragacanth, carrageenan, agar and carob, galactomannans such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar) and biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof. In general, the compounds of this type which can be used in the present invention are chosen from those which are in particular described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA MacGREGOR and CT
GREENWOOD, Editions John iley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980" et dans l'Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edité par Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Académie Press Inc. ", le contenu de ces trois ouvrages étant totalement inclus dans la présente demande à titre de référence. On utilisera de préférence, les amidons, les gommes de guar, les celluloses et leurs dérivés. Les gommes de guar peuvent être modifiées ou non modifiées. Les gommes de guar non modifiées sont par exemple les produits vendus sous la dénomination NIDOGUM GH 175 par la société UΝIPECTIΝE, et sous les dénominations MEYPRO-GUAR 50 et JAGUAR C par la société MEYHALL. Les gommes de guar non-ioniques modifiées sont notamment modifiées par des groupements hydroxyalkyle en Cι-C6- Parmi les groupements hydroxyalkyle, on peut mentionner à titre d'exemple, les groupements hydroxyméthyle, hydroxyéthyle, hydroxypropyle et hydroxybutyle. Ces gommes de guar sont bien connues de l'état de la technique et peuvent, par exemple être préparées en faisant réagir des oxydes d'alcènes correspondants, tels que par exemple des oxydes de propylène, avec la gomme de guar de façon à obtenir une gomme de guar modifiée par des groupements hydroxypropyle. Le taux d'hydroxyalkylation, qui correspond au nombre de molécules d'oxyde d'alkylène consommées par le nombre de fonctions hydroxyle libres présentes sur la gomme de guar, varie de préférence de 0,4 à 1 ,2. De telles gommes de guar non-ioniques éventuellement modifiées par des groupements hydroxyalkyle sont par exemple vendues sous les dénominations commerciales JAGUAR HP8,GREENWOOD, Editions John iley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 "and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Edition Académie Press Inc.", the contents of these three works being fully included in this application for reference. Preferably, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives will be used. Guar gums can be modified or unmodified. Unmodified guar gums are for example the products sold under the name NIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UΝIPECTIΝE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company MEYHALL. The modified non-ionic guar gums are in particular modified by Cι-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting oxides of corresponding alkenes, such as for example propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The rate of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of functions free hydroxyls present on guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8,
JAGUAR HP60 et JAGUAR HP 120, JAGUAR DC 293 et JAGUAR HP 105 par la société RHODIA CHIMIE (MEYHALL) ou sous la dénomination GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 par la société AQUALON. Les gommes de biopolysaccharides d'origine microbienne telles que les gommes de scléroglucane ou de xanthane, les gommes issues d'exudats végétaux telles que les gommes Arabique, gomme Ghatti, gomme Karaya, Tragacanthe, Carrageenane, Agar et Caroube, les hydroxyalkylcelluloses et les carboxyméthylcelluloses, les pectines, les alginates et les amidons sont bien connus de l'homme de l'art et décrits notamment dans l'ouvrage de Robert L. DANIDSON intitulé "Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins" édité chez Me Gra Hill Book Company (1980). Parmi ces gommes, les scléroglucanes sont représentés par les produits vendus sous la dénomination ACTIGUM CS par la société SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES et en particulier ACTIGUM CS 11 et sous la dénomination AMIGEL par la société ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL. D'autres scléroglucanes tels que celui traité au glyoxal dans la demande de brevet français N°2633940 peuvent également être utilisés. Les xanthanes sont représentés par les produits vendus sous les dénominations KELTROL, ELTROL T, KELTROL TF, KELTROL BT, KELTROL RD, KELTROL CG par la société NUTRASWEET KELCO, ou sous les dénominations RHODICARE S, RHODICARE H par la société RHODIA CHIMIE. Parmi les dérivés d'amidon, on peut citer par exemple le phosphate de diamidon et le produit vendu sous la dénomination PRIMOGEL par la société ANEBE. Parmi les celluloses, on utilise notamment les hydroxyéthylcelluloses, les hydroxypropylcelluloses. On peut citer les produits vendus sous les dénominations KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, par la société AQUALOΝ. Les hydroxyalkyl(Cι -C5)celluloses sont plus particulièrement des hydroxyéthylcelluloses telles que celles vendues sous les dénominations CELLOSIZE QP3L, CELLOSIZE QP4400H, CELLOSIZE QP30000H,JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP 120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE (MEYHALL) or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON. Biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, gums from plant exudates such as Arabian gums, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth, Carrageenan, Agar and Carob, hydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses , pectins, alginates and starches are well known to those skilled in the art and described in particular in the work by Robert L. DANIDSON entitled "Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins" published by Me Gra Hill Book Company ( 1980). Among these gums, scleroglucans are represented by the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and in particular ACTIGUM CS 11 and under the name AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL. Other scleroglucans such as that treated with glyoxal in French patent application No. 2633940 can also be used. Xanthans are represented by the products sold under the names KELTROL, ELTROL T, KELTROL TF, KELTROL BT, KELTROL RD, KELTROL CG by the company NUTRASWEET KELCO, or under the names RHODICARE S, RHODICARE H by the company RHODIA CHIMIE. Among the starch derivatives, mention may, for example, be made of diamidon phosphate and the product sold under the name Primogel by the company Anbe. Among the celluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses are used in particular. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by the company AQUALOΝ. The hydroxyalkyl (Cι -C5) celluloses are more particularly hydroxyethylcelluloses such as those sold under the names CELLOSIZE QP3L, CELLOSIZE QP4400H, CELLOSIZE QP30000H,
CELLOSIZE HEC30000A, CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG10, par la société AMERCHOL, ou NATROSOL 250HHR, NATRO SOL 250MR, NATROSOL 250M, NATROSOL 250HHXR, NATROSOL 250HHX, NATROSOL 250HR, NATROSOL HX, par la société HERCULES, ou encore TYLOSE H1000 par la société HOECHST.CELLOSIZE HEC30000A, CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG10, by the company AMERCHOL, or NATROSOL 250HHR, NATRO SOL 250MR, NATROSOL 250M, NATROSOL 250HHXR, NATROSOL 250HHX, NATROSOL 250HR, NATROSOL HX, by the company HERCULESH000, or even by HERCULESH.
Parmi les carboxyalkyl(Cι -C6)celluloses, on utilise de préférence la carboxyméthylcellulose dont on peut citer les produits vendus sous les dénominations BLANOSE 7M8/SF, BLANOSE RAFFINEE 7M, BLANOSE 7LF, BLANOSE 7MF, BLANOSE 9M31F, BLANOSE 12M31XP, BLANOSE 12M3 1P, BLANOSE 9M31 XF , BLANOSE 7H,Among the carboxyalkyl (Cι -C6) celluloses, carboxymethylcellulose is preferably used, the products sold under the names BLANOSE 7M8 / SF, BLANOSE REFINED 7M, BLANOSE 7LF, BLANOSE 7MF, BLANOSE 9M31F, BLANOSE 12M31XP, BLANOSE 12M3 being preferably used , BLANOSE 9M31 XF, BLANOSE 7H,
BLANOSE 7M31 , BLANOSE 7H3SXF, par la société AQUALON, ou encore AQUASORB A500 et AMBERGUM 1221 , par le société HERCULES, ou encore CELLOGEN HP810A et CELLOGEN HP6HS9, par la société MONTELLO, ou encore PRIMELLOSE par la société ANEBE. Les alcools gras sont notamment choisis parmi l'alcool myristylique, l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique, l'alcool béhénylique. Ces agents épaississants sont dépourvus d'effets conditionneurs. Ils ne confèrent pas aux cheveux des propriétés de douceur ou de démêlage. Selon l'invention, le ou les agents épaississants peuvent représenter de 0,001 % à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 0,01 % àBLANOSE 7M31, BLANOSE 7H3SXF, by the company AQUALON, or even AQUASORB A500 and AMBERGUM 1221, by the company HERCULES, or CELLOGEN HP810A and CELLOGEN HP6HS9, by the company MONTELLO, or even PRIMELLOSE by the company ANEBE. The fatty alcohols are especially chosen from myristylic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol. These thickening agents are devoid of conditioning effects. They do not give the hair softness or detangling properties. According to the invention, the thickening agent (s) may represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to
10% en poids et plus particulièrement de 0, 1 à 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition finale. Les compositions de l'invention contiennent en outre avantageusement au moins un agent tensioactif qui est généralement présent en une quantité comprise entre 0, 1 % et 60% en poids environ, de préférence entre 3% et 40% et encore plus préférentiellement entre10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition. The compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between
5% et 30%, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Cet agent tensioactif peut être choisi parmi les agents tensioactifs anioniques, amphoteres, non-ioniques, cationiques ou leurs mélanges. Les tensioactifs convenant à la mise en oeuvre de la présente invention sont notamment les suivants :5% and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This surfactant can be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. The surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following:
(i) Tensioactif(s) anionique(s) : Ainsi, à titre d'exemple de tensioactifs anioniques utilisables, seuls ou mélanges, dans le cadre de la présente invention, on peut citer notamment (liste non limitative) les sels (en particulier sels alcalins, notamment de sodium, sels d'ammonium, sels d'aminés, sels d'aminoalcools ou sels de magnésium) des composés suivants : les alkylsulfates, les alkyléthersulfates, alkylamidoéthersulfates, alkylarylpolyéthersulfates, monoglycérides sulfates ; les alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, oléfine-sulfonates, paraffine-sulfonates ; les alkylsulfosuccinates, les alkyléthersulfosuccinates, les alkylamidesulfosuccinates; les alkylsulfosuccinamates ; les alkylsulfoacétates ; les alkylétherphosphates; les acylsarcosinates ; les acyliséthionates et les N-acyltaurates, le radical alkyle ou acyle de tous ces différents composés comportant de préférence de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone, et le radical aryl désignant de préférence un groupement phényle ou benzyle. Parmi les tensioactifs anioniques encore utilisables, on peut également citer les sels d'acides gras tels que les sels des acides oléique, ricinoléique, palmitique, stéarique, les acides d'huile de coprah ou d'huile de coprah hydrogénée ; les acyl- lactylates dont le radical acyle comporte 8 à 20 atomes de carbone. On peut également utiliser des tensioactifs faiblement anioniques, comme les acides d'alkyl D galactoside uroniques et leurs sels ainsi que les acides alkyl (C6-C24) éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés, les acides alkyl(C6-C 4)aryl éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés ,les acides alkyl(C6-C2 ) amido éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et leurs sels, en particulier ceux comportant de 2 à 50 groupements oxyde d'éthylène, et leurs mélanges. Parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, on préfère utiliser selon l'invention les sels d'alkylsulfates et d'alkyléthersufates et leurs mélanges.(i) Anionic Surfactant (s): Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list) the salts (in particular alkali salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl etherphosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, (C 6 -C 4 ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, (C 6 -C 2 ) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and of alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures.
(ii) Tensioactiffs) non ioniquefs : Les agents tensioactifs non-ioniques sont, eux aussi, des composés bien connus en soi (voir notamment à cet égard "Handbook of Surfactants" par M.R. PORTER, éditions Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 1 16-178). Ainsi, ils peuvent être notamment choisis parmi (liste non limitative) les alcools polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés ou polyglycérolés, les alpha-diols polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés ou polyglycérolés, les alkylphénols polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés ou polyglycérolés ou les acides gras polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés ou polyglycérolés, ayant une chaîne grasse comportant par exemple 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, le nombre de groupements oxyde d'éthylène ou oxyde de propylène pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 50 et le nombre de groupements glycérol pouvant aller notamment de(ii) Nonionic surfactants: Nonionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 1 16-178). Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which can range in particular from
2 à 30. On peut également citer les copolymères d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène, les condensats d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène sur des alcools gras ; les amides gras polyéthoxylés ayant de préférence de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, les amides gras polyglycérolés comportant en moyenne 1 à 5 groupements glycérol et en particulier2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular
1 ,5 à 4 ; les aminés grasses polyéthoxylées ayant de préférence 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; les esters d'acides gras du sorbitan oxyéthylénés ayant de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; les esters d'acides gras du sucrose, les esters d'acides gras du polyéthylèneglycol, les alkylpolyglycosides, les dérivés de N-alkyl glucamine, les oxydes d'aminés tels que les oxydes d'alkyl (C ^ Q - C14) aminés ou les oxydes de N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. On notera que les alkylpolyglycosides constituent des tensioactifs non-ioniques rentrant particulièrement bien dans le cadre de la présente invention.1, 5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sorbitan oxyethylenated having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as amino (C ^ Q - C14) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which are particularly well within the scope of the present invention.
(iii) Tensioactiffs) amphotère(s) : Les agents tensioactifs amphoteres, peuvent être notamment (liste non limitative) des dérivés d'aminés secondaires ou tertiaires aliphatiques, dans lesquels le radical aliphatique est une chaîne linéaire ou ramifiée comportant 8 à 22 atomes de carbone et contenant au moins un groupe anionique hydrosolubilisant (par exemple carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate ou phosphonate) ; on peut citer encore les alkyl (C8-C20) bétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les alkyl (C8-C2o) amidoalkyl (Cι-C6) bétaïnes ou les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) sulfobétaïnes. Parmi les dérivés d'aminés, on peut citer les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations MIRANOL, tels que décrits dans les brevets US-2 528 378 et US-2 781 354 et de structures : R2 -CONHCH2CH2 -N(R3)(R4)(CH2COO-) (II) dans laquelle : R désigne un radical alkyle dérivé d'un acide R2-COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah hydrolysée, un radical heptyle, nonyle ou undécyle, R3 désigne un groupement bêta- hydroxyéthyle et R un groupement carboxyméthyle ; et R5-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(C) (III) dans laquelle : B représente -CH2CH2OX', C représente -(CH2)Z -Y', avec z = 1 ou 2, X' désigne le groupement -CH2CH -COOH ou un atome d'hydrogène Y' désigne -COOH ou le radical -CH2 - CHOH - SO3H R5 désigne un radical alkyle d'un acide R5 -COOH présent dans l'huile de coprah ou dans l'huile de lin hydrolysée, un radical alkyle, notamment en C , C9, Cπ ou C13, un radical alkyle en Cj7 et sa forme iso, un radical C1 insaturé. Ces composés sont classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 5ème édition, 1993, sous les dénominations Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate,(iii) Tensioactiffs) amphoteric (s): The amphoteric surfactants, can be in particular (nonlimiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 atoms of carbon and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyls (C 8 -C 2 o) amidoalkyl (Cι-C 6 ) betaines or alkyl (C 8 -C 20 ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C 6 ) sulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names MIRANOL, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and of structures: R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R 3 ) (R 4 ) (CH 2 COO-) (II) in which: R denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R 2 -COOH present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R 3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R a carboxymethyl group; and R 5 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (C) (III) in which: B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX ', C represents - (CH 2 ) Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2 , X 'denotes the group -CH 2 CH -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y' denotes -COOH or the radical -CH 2 - CHOH - SO3H R 5 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R 5 -COOH present in l coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C, C 9 , Cπ or C 13 , an alkyl radical in Cj 7 and its iso form, an unsaturated C 1 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate,
Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylampho- dipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipτopionate, Lauroampho- dipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer le cocoamphodiacetate commercialisé sous la dénomination commerciale MIRANOL C2M concentré par la société RHODIA CHIMIE.Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipτopionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
(iv) Tensioactiffs) cationique(s : Les tensioactifs cationiques peuvent être choisis parmi : A)les sels d'ammonium quaternaires de la formule générale (IV) suivante :(iv) Cationic surfactants: The cationic surfactants can be chosen from: A) the quaternary ammonium salts of the following general formula (IV):
Figure imgf000013_0001
dans laquelle : - X" est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures (chlorure, bromure ou iodure) ou alkyl(C2-C6)sulfates plus particulièrement méthylsulfate, des phosphates, des alkyl-ou- alkylarylsulfonates, des anions dérivés d'acide organique tel que l'acétate ou le lactate, - les radicaux RÎ à R3, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, ou un radical aromatique tel que aryle ou alkylaryle. Les radicaux aliphatiques peuvent comporter des hétéroatomes tels que notamment l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, les halogènes. Les radicaux aliphatiques sont par exemple choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle, alcoxy, alkylamide, R désigne un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone. De préférence, le tensioactif cationique est un sel (par exemple chlorure) de béhényl triméthyl ammonium. Les radicaux Ri et R2, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un radical aliphatique, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, ou un radical aromatique tel que aryle ou alkylaryle. Les radicaux aliphatiques peuvent comporter des hétéroatomes tels que notamment l'oxygène, l'azote, le soufre, les halogènes. Les radicaux aliphatiques sont par exemple choisis parmi les radicaux alkyle, alcoxy, alkylamide et hydroxyalkyle, comportant environ de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone; R3 et R4, identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié, comportant de 12 à 30 atomes de carbone, ledit radical comprenant au moins une fonction ester ou amide. R3 et R sont notamment choisis parmi les radicaux alkyl(C12- C22)amido alkyle(C2-C6), alkyl(C 2-C22)acétate ; De préférence le tensioactif cationique est un sel (par exemple chlorure) de stéaramidopropyl diméthyl (myristylacétate) ammonium.
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which: - X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl (C 2 -C 6 ) sulfates, more particularly methylsulfate, phosphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates, anions derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, - the radicals R Î to R 3 , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are for example chosen from the alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide radicals, R denotes a radical alkyl, linear or branched, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of behenyl trimethyl ammonium. The radicals R 1 and R 2 , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl radicals, comprising approximately from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 3 and R 4 , identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said radical comprising at least one ester or amide function. R 3 and R are especially chosen from (C 12 -C 22 ) alkyl amido (C 2 -C 6 ) alkyl, (C 2 -C 22 ) alkyl acetate radicals; Preferably the cationic surfactant is a salt (for example chloride) of stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium.
B) les sels d' ammonium quaternaire de l'imidazolinium, comme par exemple celui de formule (V) suivante :B) the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as for example that of formula (V) below:
Figure imgf000014_0001
dans laquelle R5 représente un radical alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone par exemple dérivés des acides gras du suif, R6 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C!-C4 ou un radical alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, R représente un radical alkyle en Ci-C , R8 représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4, X est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, phosphates, acétates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-ou-alkylarylsulfonates. De préférence, R5 et R6 désignent un mélange de radicaux alcényle ou alkyle comportant de 12 à 21 atomes de carbone par exemple dérivés des acides gras du suif, R7 désigne méthyle, R8 désigne hydrogène. Un tel produit est par exemple le Quaternium-27(CTFA 1997) ou le Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) commercialisés sous les dénominations "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG par la société WITCO,
Figure imgf000014_0001
in which R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 alkyl radical ! -C 4 or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, X is a anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R 7 denotes methyl, R 8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997) sold under the names "REWOQUAT" W 75, W90, W75PG, W75HPG by the company WITCO,
C) les sels de diammonium quaternaire de formule (NI)C) the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (NI)
Figure imgf000015_0001
dans laquelle R9 désigne un radical aliphatique comportant environ de 16 à 30 atomes de carbone, R10, Ru, R12, R13 et Rj , identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle comportant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone, et X est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates et méthylsulfates. De tels sels de diammonium quaternaire comprennent notamment le dichlorure de propanesuif diammonium.
Figure imgf000015_0001
in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 10 , Ru, R 12 , R 13 and Rj, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 atoms carbon, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such quaternary diammonium salts include in particular propane diammonium dichloride.
D) les sels d'ammonium quaternaire contenant au moins une fonction ester de formule (VII) suivante :
Figure imgf000016_0001
(VU) dans laquelle : - Ri 5 est choisi parmi les radicaux alkyles en C ^ -Cg et les radicaux hydroxy alkyles ou di ydroxy alkyles en C^ -Cg ; - R^ 6 est choisi parmi : le radical R19-CO- ; les radicaux R20 hydrocarbonés en C1 -C22 linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, l'atome d'hydrogène, - Rj g est choisi parmi : le radical R21-CO-, les radicaux R22 hydrocarbonés en Cj -Cg linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, l'atome d'hydrogène, - Ri 7, R 9 et R21 , identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux hydrocarbonés en C7-C21 , linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ; - n, p et r, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 2 à 6 y est un entier valant de 1 à 10 ; x et z, identiques ou différents, sont des entiers valant de 0 àD) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of formula (VII) below:
Figure imgf000016_0001
(VU) in which: - Ri 5 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals and hydroxy alkyl or di-hydroxy C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals; - R ^ 6 is chosen from: the radical R 19 -CO-; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, the hydrogen atom, - R j g is chosen from: the radical R 21 -CO-, linear or branched C22 -Cg hydrocarbon radicals R22 , saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom, - Ri 7, R 9 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - n, p and r, identical or different, are integers worth from 2 to 6 y is an integer worth from 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to
10 - X" est un anion simple ou complexe, organique ou inorganique ; sous réserve que la somme x + y + z vaut de 1 à 15 , que lorsque x vaut 0 alors Ri désigne R20 et que lorsque z vaut 0 alors10 - X "is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion; provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then Ri denotes R20 and that when z is 0 then
Ri 8 désigne R22- On utilise plus particulièrement les sels d'ammonium de formule (Nil) dans laquelle : - Ri 5 désigne un radical méthyle ou éthyle, - x et y sont égaux à 1 ; - z est égal à 0 ou 1 ; - n, p et r sont égaux à 2 ; - Ri g est choisi parmi : le radical R1 -CO- , les radicaux méthyle, éthyle ou hydrocarbonés en C 14-C22 l'atome d'hydrogène ; - Ri 7, i 9 et R2 I 5 identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les radicaux hydrocarbonés en C7-C21 , linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés ; - R g est choisi parmi : le radical R 1-CO- , l'atome d'hydrogène. De tels composés sont par exemple commercialisés sous les dénominations DEHYQUART par la société COGΝIS, STEPAΝQUAT par la société STEPAΝ, ΝOXAMIUM par la société CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 par la société REWO-WITCO. Parmi les sels d' ammonium quaternaire, on préfère le chlorure de béhényltriméthylammonium, ou encore, le chlorure de stéaramidopropyldiméthyl (myristyl acétate) ammonium commercialisé sous la dénomination «CERAPHYL 70» par la société NAΝ DYK, le Quaternium-27 ou le Quaternium-83 commercialisés par la société WITCO. On utilise de préférence comme agent tensioactif anionique les alkyl(C12-C14) sulfates de sodium, de triéthanolamine ou d'ammonium, les alkyl (C12-C1 )éthersulfates de sodium, de triéthanolamine ou d'ammonium oxyéthylénés à 2,2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, le cocoyl iséthionate de sodium et l'alphaoléfine(C1 -C16) sulfonate de sodium et leurs mélanges avec : - soit un agent tensioactif amphotère tel que les dérivés d'aminé dénommés disodiumcocoamphodipropionate ou sodiumcocoamphopropionate commercialisés notamment par la sociétéRi 8 denotes R22- Use is made more particularly of the ammonium salts of formula (Nile) in which: - Ri 5 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1; - z is 0 or 1; - n, p and r are equal to 2; - Ri g is chosen from: the radical R 1 -CO-, the methyl, ethyl or C 14 -C 22 hydrocarbon radicals the hydrogen atom; - Ri 7, i 9 and R2 I 5 identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; - R g is chosen from: the radical R 1 -CO-, the hydrogen atom. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART by the company COGΝIS, STEPAΝQUAT by the company STEPAΝ, ΝOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. Among the quaternary ammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is preferred, or alternatively, stearamidopropyldimethyl chloride (myristyl acetate) ammonium sold under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the company NAΝ DYK, Quaternium-27 or Quaternium-83 marketed by the company WITCO. Preferably used as anionic surfactant are sodium (triethanolamine or ammonium) (C 12 -C 14 ) alkyl sulfates, sodium (triethanolamine or ammonium 2-oxyethylenated (C 12 -C 1 ) alkyl sulfates , 2 moles of ethylene oxide, cocoyl sodium isethionate and alpha-olefin (C 1 -C 16 ) sodium sulfonate and their mixtures with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate sold in particular by the company
RHODIA CHIMIE sous la dénomination commerciale "MIRANOL® C2M CONC" en solution aqueuse à 38 % de matière active ou sous la dénomination MIRANOL® C32; - soit un agent tensioactif amphotère tel que les alkylbétaïnes en particulier la cocobétaïne commercialisée sous la dénominationRHODIA CHEMISTRY under the trade name "MIRANOL® C2M CONC" in an aqueous solution containing 38% of active material or under the name MIRANOL® C32; - or an amphoteric surfactant such as alkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine sold under the name
"DEHYTON® AB 30" en solution aqueuse à 32 % de MA par la société COGNIS ou tel que les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) bétaïnes en particulier la TEGOBETAINE® F 50 commercialisée par la société GOLDSCHMIDT. La composition de l'invention peut également contenir au moins un additif choisi parmi les agents antipelliculaires ou antiséborrhéiques, les parfums, les agents nacrants, les hydroxyacides, les électrolytes, les conservateurs, les filtres solaires silicones ou non, les vitamines, les provitamines tels que le panthénol, les polymères anioniques ou non ioniques, les protéines, les hydrolysats de protéines, l'acide méthyl-18 eicosanoique, les huiles de synthèses telles que les poly-oléfines, les huiles minérales, les huiles végétales, les huiles fluorées ou perfluorées, les cires naturelles ou synthétiques, les composés de type céramide, les esters d'acides carboxyliques, les silicones autres que celles de formule (I) ainsi que les mélanges de ces différents composés et tout autre additif classiquement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique qui n'affecte pas les propriétés des compositions selon l'invention. Ces additifs sont présents dans la composition selon l'invention dans des proportions pouvant aller de 0 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. La quantité de chaque additif est déterminée facilement par l'homme du métier selon sa nature et sa fonction. L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de traitement des matières kératiniques telles que les cheveux, consistant en l' application sur les matières kératiniques d'une composition cosmétique telle que définie précédemment, puis à effectuer éventuellement un rinçage à l'eau. Ainsi, ce procédé selon l'invention permet de protéger la couleur artificielle des cheveux ou de toute autre matière kératinique. Les compositions de l'invention peuvent également se présenter sous forme de shampooing, d'après-shampooing à rincer ou non, de composition pour coloration ou encore sous forme de composition à rincer à appliquer avant ou après une coloration. Lorsque la composition se présente sous la forme d'un après- shampooing éventuellement à rincer, elle contient avantageusement un tensioactif cationique, sa concentration allant généralement de 0, 1 à 10% en poids et de préférence de 0,5 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également se présenter sous forme de lotions aqueuses ou hydroalcooliques pour le soin de la peau et/ou des cheveux. Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous forme de gel, de lait, de crème, d'émulsion, de lotion épaissie ou de mousse. Les compositions peuvent être conditionnées sous diverses formes notamment dans des vaporisateurs, des flacons pompe ou dans des récipients aérosols afin d'assurer une application de la composition sous forme vaporisée ou sous forme de mousse. De telles formes de conditionnement sont indiquées, par exemple, lorsqu'on souhaite obtenir un spray, une laque ou une mousse pour le traitement des cheveux. L'invention va être maintenant plus complètement illustrée à l'aide des exemples suivants qui ne sauraient être considérés comme la limitant aux modes de réalisation décrits."DEHYTON® AB 30" in an aqueous solution at 32% of MA by the company COGNIS or such as the alkyls (C 8 -C 20 ) amidoalkyl (Ci-C 6 ) betaines in particular TEGOBETAINE® F 50 sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT . The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from dandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, perfumes, pearlescent agents, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, preservatives, solar filters, silicone or not, vitamins, provitamins such as as panthenol, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, synthetic oils such as polyolefins, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluorinated oils or perfluorinated, natural or synthetic waxes, ceramide-type compounds, esters of carboxylic acids, silicones other than those of formula (I) as well as mixtures of these different compounds and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The quantity of each additive is easily determined by a person skilled in the art according to its nature and its function. The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the hair, consisting in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above, then optionally rinsing with water. Thus, this method according to the invention makes it possible to protect the artificial color of the hair or of any other keratin material. The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of a shampoo, conditioner to rinse off or not, of composition for coloring or also in the form of composition to rinse to be applied before or after coloring. When the composition is in the form of an optionally rinse-off conditioner, it advantageously contains a cationic surfactant, its concentration generally ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam. The compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or in aerosol containers to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in foam form. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the treatment of hair. The invention will now be further illustrated with the aid of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described.
Exemple de compositionExample of composition
La demanderesse a formulé la composition (1 ) suivanteThe applicant has formulated the following composition (1)
Figure imgf000020_0001
La composition est appliquée sur mèches de cheveux colorés avec la coloration d' oxydation Majirouge 6.64 commercialisée par la société L' Oréal. L' application de la composition (1 ) s' effectue sur mèches de cheveux propres et humides, sans rinçage ni temps de pose, les mèches sont ensuite séchées au casque 30 minutes à 60°C. Quatre shampooings effectués par des shampooings DOP commercialisés par la société L' Oréal ont été réalisés avec séchage intermédiaire. Les mèches traitées avec la composition (1 ) ont été jugées moins délavées que les mèches non traités par un panel d' experts.
Figure imgf000020_0001
The composition is applied to locks of colored hair with the Majirouge 6.64 oxidation dye sold by the company L 'Oréal. The application of the composition (1) is carried out on locks of clean, damp hair, without rinsing or setting time, the locks are then dried with a helmet for 30 minutes at 60 ° C. Four shampoos carried out with DOP shampoos marketed by the company L 'Oréal were carried out with intermediate drying. The locks treated with the composition (1) were judged to be less washed out than the locks not treated by a panel of experts.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques, et plus particulièrement des cheveux, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins une silicone aminée choisie parmi les copolyols de dimethicone bisamino hydroxyalkyl(en Cι-C ) dihydroxyalkyl(en C2-C6) neutralisés et au moins un agent épaississant comportant au moins un motif sucre. 1. Cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, and more particularly of the hair, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amino silicone chosen from copolyols of dimethicone bisamino hydroxyalkyl (in Cι-C ) neutralized C 2 -C 6 dihydroxyalkyl and at least one thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée par le fait que ladite silicone aminée est un copolyol de dimethicone bisamino hydroxyéthyl dihydroxypropyl neutralisé. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said amino silicone is a neutralized dimethicone bisamino hydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl copolyol.
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 , caractérisée par le fait qu' elle contient un ester d'acide gras en C8-C30, et plus particulièrement le stéarate de triéthanolamine 4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée par le fait que ladite ou lesdites silicones aminées sont présentes à une concentration allant de 0,01 à 20% en poids du poids total de la composition. 5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que les agents épaississants comportant au moins un motif sucre sont choisis parmi les polysaccharides. 6. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que les polysaccharides sont choisis les glucanes, les amidons modifiés ou non, l'amylose, l'amylopectine, le glycogène les dextranes, les celluloses et leurs dérivés, les mannanes, les xylanes, les lignines, les arabanes, les galactanes, les galacturonanes, la chitine, les chitosanes, les glucoronoxylanes, les arabinoxylanes, les xyloglucanes, les glucomannanes, les acides pectiques et les pectines, l'acide alginique et les alginates, les arabinogalactanes, les glycosaminoglucanes, les gommes arabique, ghatti, karaya, tragacanthe, carrageenane, agar et caroube, les gommes de guar et leurs dérivés non ioniques et les gommes de scléroglucane ou de xanthane, et leurs mélanges . 7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'agent épaississant comportant au moins un motif sucre est présent à une concentration allant de 0,001 % à 20 %, de préférence de 0,01 % à 10 %, et plus particulièrement de 0, 1 à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle comprend en outre au moins un agent tensioactif choisi parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, non ioniques, amphoteres, cationiques et leurs mélanges. 9. Composition selon la revendication 8, caractérisée par le fait que le ou les agents tensioactifs sont présents à une concentration allant de 0, 1 % à 60% en poids, de préférence de 3% à 40% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 5% à 30% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. 10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait la composition contient au moins un additif choisi parmi les agents antipelliculaires ou antiséborrhéiques, les parfums, les agents nacrants, les hydroxyacides, les électrolytes, les conservateurs, les filtres solaires silicones ou non, les vitamines, les provitamines, les polymères anioniques ou non ioniques, les protéines, les hydrolysats de protéines, l'acide méthyl-18 eicosanoique, les huiles de synthèses, les huiles minérales, les huiles végétales, les huiles fluorées ou perfluorées, les cires naturelles ou synthétiques, les composés de type céramide, les esters d' acides carboxyliques, les silicones autres que celles définies en revendication 1 ainsi que les mélanges de ces différents composés. 11.. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle se présente sous forme de shampooing, d'après-shampooing à rincer ou non, de composition pour la coloration, de composition à rincer à appliquer avant ou après une coloration. 12. Procédé de traitement des matières kératiniques, telles que les cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur lesdites matières une composition cosmétique définie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 1 1. 13. Procédé selon la revendication 12, caractérisé par le fait qu'un rinçage à l'eau est effectué après l' application de la composition cosmétique définie selon l' une des revendications 1 à 1 1. 14. Utilisation d'une composition telle que définie dans l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 1 1 pour le soin des matières kératiniques. 3. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it contains a C 8 -C 30 fatty acid ester, and more particularly triethanolamine stearate 4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said amino silicone (s) are present at a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the thickening agents comprising at least one sugar unit are chosen from polysaccharides. 6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the polysaccharides are chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans , gum arabic, ghatti, karaya, tragacanth, carrageenan, agar and carob, guar gums and their nonionic derivatives and scleroglucan or xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the thickening agent comprising at least one sugar unit is present at a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, and more particularly from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, cationic surfactants and their mixtures. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one additive chosen from anti-dandruff or antiseborrhoeic agents, perfumes, pearlescent agents, hydroxy acids, electrolytes, preservatives, sun filters silicones or not, vitamins, provitamins, anionic or nonionic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, synthetic oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluorinated oils or perfluorinated, natural or synthetic waxes, ceramide type compounds, carboxylic acid esters, silicones other than those defined in claim 1 as well as mixtures of these various compounds. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a shampoo, a conditioner to be rinsed or not, a composition for coloring, rinse-off composition to be applied before or after coloring. 12. Method for treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a cosmetic composition defined according to one of claims 1 to 1 1. 13. Method according to claim 12, characterized in that a rinsing with water is carried out after the application of the cosmetic composition defined according to one of claims 1 to 1 1. 14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 1 1 for the care of keratin materials.
PCT/FR2004/002541 2003-10-10 2004-10-08 Cosmetic compositions containing an aminated silicone and a thickening agent with at least one sugar moiety and use therof WO2005034893A1 (en)

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FR0311907A FR2860715B1 (en) 2003-10-10 2003-10-10 COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN AMINO SILICONE AND A THICKENING AGENT COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SUGAR PATTERN AND USES THEREOF

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