WO2004098546A1

WO2004098546A1 - Colored compositions having novel masking agent and their use in personal care products

Info

Publication number: WO2004098546A1
Application number: PCT/EP2004/050626
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stewart Todd Elder; Christina Ligia Andrianov
Original assignee: Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc.
Priority date: 2003-05-08
Filing date: 2004-04-28
Publication date: 2004-11-18

Abstract

The present invention relates to decorative cosmetic compositions that contain at least one decorative coloring agent and at least one organic masking agent that produce a natural, textured tone effect. The present invention further includes a method for cosmetic treatment comprising application of said cosmetic compositions onto at least a part of the body.

Description

Colored compositions having novel masking agent and their use in personal care products

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to compositions containing coloring agents and a novel masking agent and their use in personal care applications.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Coloring agents are known for use in personal care compositions. Conventional masking agents for such use are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

U.S. Patent No. 5,234,711 describes a method for encapsulation of pigment particles utilized in ink formulations and their use for cosmetic products.

Published European Patent Application 445,342 relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a pigment that has been formed by incorporating a soluble dye into a resin and admixing with a cosmetic carrier. The amount of pigment present is sufficient to provide an attractive cosmetic effect when applied to skin, nails or hair. Any cosmetically acceptable soluble dye can be used. Any resin may be used provided it can be pulverized to a fine powder. The soluble dye may be incorporated into the resin by adding to the eiasticized or molten resin, or by dissolving the dye in a solution of unpolymerized resin precursors and a mutual solvent for the dye and the resin, then polymerizing the resin, or by contacting the dye with the resin. The dye impregnated resin powders are said to be useful in a variety of cosmetic compositions.

The prior art does not describe the use of a blend comprising a coloring agent and a selected masking agent other than titanium dioxide or zinc oxide for use in decorative cosmetic compositions.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides an improved decorative cosmetic composition, which comprises at least one coloring agent and at least one organic masking agent. In one embodiment sufficient organic masking agent is provided so that no inorganic oxide- containing colorant perceived as white by the human eye in daylight conditions, in particular titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, needs to be present in the overall composition. In another embodiment the decorative cosmetic composition contains at least one oxide-containing colorant perceived as white by the human eye in daylight conditions in addition to the organic masking agent.

The present invention also provides a method of use that comprises application of a decorative cosmetic formulation having an effective amount of at least one coloring agent and at least one organic masking agent to at least a part of a human body.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Any inorganic or organic pigment or colorant approved for use in cosmetics is particularly preferred for use as a coloring agent in the present invention. Preferred pigments include the lakes, iron oxides and hydrophobic dyes. Certified dyes can be water-soluble or lakes.

Lakes are organic pigments prepared by precipitating a soluble dye on a reactive or absorbent stratum, which is an essential part of the pigment's composition. Most lakes are aluminum, barium or calcium-derived. These insoluble pigments are used mostly in makeup products, either powders or liquids, when a temporary color is desired that won't stain the skin (as oil-soluble dyes tend to do). The lakes are used in these products along with inorganic colors such as iron oxide.

Water soluble, certified dyes are used mostly in color products, although it is possible to make a temporary hair color rinse using only certified dyes. When incorporating these dyes into an emulsion, they will be soluble in the external water phase in an oil/water system. It is useful to know the solubility properties of the certified dyes in various solvents and their stability to reactive chemicals.

The following tables list currently available dyes and colorants approved for use in food, drugs and/or cosmetics. The selected coloring agent for use herein is preferably selected from the following exemplary lists. TABLE I Dyes certified for use in foods, drugs, cosmetics (FDC colors)

Some color additives are exempt from certification and permanently listed for cosmetic use, including aluminum powder, annatto, bismuth oxychloride, bronze powder, caramel, carmine, beta-carotene, chromium hydroxide green, chromium oxide green copper (metallic powder), dihydroxyacetone, disodium EDTA-copper, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, ferric ferrocyanide, guanine (pearl essence), guaiazulene (azulene), iron oxides, luminescent zinc sulfide, manganese violet, mica, pyrophyllite, silver (for coloring fingernail polish), ultramarines (blue, green, pink, red & violet).

The coloring agents can be used in their conventional form or in encapsulated form. Encapsulated colorants may have enhanced visual performance and furthermore the polymer matrix does not allow any of the entrapped colorant to be released even under prolonged use.

The coloring agent can also be a substance that is a dormant colorant, for instance a color former that exhibits a color on exposure to a suitable trigger mechanism, for instance heat or irradiation. Usually the color former is microencapsulated. Suitably such entrapped color formers can be coated onto or incorporated into suitable substrates and then treated to exhibit the color. The advantage of providing color formers within polymeric particles is that they can be more easily be processed and incorporated into the substrate in a desired way. The color former can still be activated even though it is entrapped within the polymer particle.

The coloring agent can also be incorporated into a polymer matrix. These colored polymeric products can be further enhanced if the polymeric matrix is cross- linked. This cross-linking can be as a result of including a cross-linking step in the process. This can be achieved by including self cross-linking groups in the polymer, for instance monomer repeating units carrying a methylol functionality.

Generally any suitable polymerization process may prepare the matrix polymer. For instance the polymer can be conveniently prepared by aqueous emulsion polymerization for instance as described in EP-A-697423 or U.S. Patent No. 5,070,136. The polymer can then be neutralized by the addition of an aqueous solution of ammonium hydroxide or a volatile amine.

In a typical polymerization process a blend of hydrophobic and anionic monomers is emulsified in an aqueous phase which contains a suitable amount of emulsifying agent. The emulsifying agent may be any commercially available emulsifying agent suitable for forming aqueous emulsions.

Generally the matrix polymer has a molecular weight of up to 200,000 (determined by GPC using the industry standard parameters). Preferably the polymer has a molecular weight of below 50,000, for instance 2,000 to 20,000. A particularly preferred matrix polymer is a copolymer of styrene with ammonium acrylate. More preferably this polymer is used when the process employs a cross-linking agent, which is especially ammonium zirconium carbonate.

To be useful as a coloring agent, the colorant must be in the form of finely divided particles of a suitable particle size. This is usually accomplished by grinding in suitable apparatus.

Generally the average diameter of the colorant particles is less than about 100 microns. Usually the average particle size diameter tends to be smaller, for instance less than 70 or 80 microns, often less than 40 or 50 microns. Typically the average particle diameter will be between 750 nanometers and 40 microns.

Preferably the average particle size diameter is in the range 10 to 40 microns usually between 20 and 40 microns. Average particle size is determined by a Coulter particle size analyzer according to standard procedures well documented in the literature.

The particles may entrap one or more colorants and the colorant may be any colorant, for instance a dye, pigment or lake. Typically suitable colorants include any organic or inorganic pigment or colorant approved for use in cosmetics by CTFA and the FDA such as lakes, iron oxides, iron sulfides or other conventional pigments used in cosmetic formulations.

Examples of the pigment include an inorganic pigment such as carbon black, D&C Red 7, calcium lake, D&C Red 30, talc lake, D&C Red 6, barium lake, russet iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, talc, kaolin, mica, mica titanium, red iron oxide, and magnesium silicate; and organic pigment such as Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 206, Red No. 219, Red No. 228, Red No. 404, Yellow No. 205, Yellow No. 401 , Orange No.401 and Blue No. 404. Examples of vat dyes are Red No. 226, Blue No. 204 and Blue No. 201. Examples of lake dyes include various acid dyes, which are laked with aluminum, calcium or barium. The class of colorants for use in this invention also includes titanium dioxide and equivalents perceived as white by the human eye in daylight conditions.

In one embodiment the colorant is an aqueous solution of a water-soluble dye. Suitable dyes for the present invention include FD&C Blue No. 11 , FD&C Blue No. 12, FD&C Green No. 13, FD&C Red No. 13, FD&C Red No. 140, FD&C Yellow No. 15, FD&C Yellow No. 16, D&C Blue No. 14, D&C Blue No. 19; D&C Green No. 15, D&C Green No. 16, D&C Green No. 18, D&C Orange No. 14, D&C Orange No. 15, D&C Orange No. 110, D&C Orange No. 111, D&C Orange No. 11 , FD&C Red No. 14, D&C Red No. 16, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 18, D&C Red No. 19, D&C Red No. 117, D&C Red No. 119, D&C Red No. 121 , D&C Red No. 122, D&C Red No. 127, D&C Red No. 128, D&C Red No. 130, D&C Red No. 131 , D&C Red No. 134, D&C Red No. 139, FD&C Red No. 140, D&C Violet No. 12, D&C Yellow No. 17, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 17, D&C Yellow No. 18, D&C Yellow No. 111 , D&C Brown No. 11, Ext. D&C Violet No. 12, D&C Blue No. 16 and D&C Yellow No. 110. Such dyes are well known, commercially available materials, with their chemical structure being described, e. g., in 21 C. F. R. Part 74 (as revised April 1, 1988) and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, (1988), published by the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Fragrancy Association, Inc. These publications are incorporated herein by reference.

In lieu of or in addition to a colorant perceived as white, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, kaolin or talc, the instant invention employs a non-oxide containing masking agent, particulariy an organic UV absorber having a refractive index of at least 1 , preferably 1.2 - 1.5.

In one embodiment the organic masking agent is a micranized insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorber, more particularly one having the formula:

in which T-i is Cι-Cι₈alkyl or, preferably, hydrogen; and T₂ is CrC-iβalkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl, preferably α,α-dimethylbenzyl.

A further preferred class of organic masking agents are the insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorbers that have the formula:

in which T₂ has its previous significance.

A still further preferred class of masking agents are the insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorbers that have the formula:

in which T₂ has its previous significance and is preferably octyl.

The insoluble organic screening agents according to the invention are provided in micronized form. The mean or average size of the particles ranges from .02 micron to 2 microns and more preferably from .05 microns to 1.5 microns.

The preferred micronized masking agents are prepared in a manner known per se, such as that disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,869,030 and 5,980,872, which are incorporated herein by reference, and commercial embodiments are available from Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

It has now been found that use of a decorative cosmetic formulation composition comprising at least one coloring agent and having an organic masking agent incorporated therein produces desirable effects upon application. Notably, the compositions containing at least coloring agent and an organic masking agent have unique and distinctive colors. In a particularly preferred embodiment, a blend of 2 or 3 primary colors and the masking agent is an effective means for producing natural, textured tone effects. The primary colors are understood to mean red, yellow and blue.

The decorative cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises from about 0.1 to 40% by weight, for example from 1 to 20% by weight, and especially from 2 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, of the coloring agent and organic masking agent as well as at least one cosmetically tolerable carrier or adjuvant other than water. While water is cosmetically tolerable, and in most instances will also be present, the phrase "a cosmetically tolerable carrier or adjuvant" is intended to refer to at least one substance other than water that is customarily employed in decorative cosmetic compositions.

Encapsulated colorant microspheres, if present, preferably have average diameters of 0.1 to 50 microns, for example 5 to 40 and especially 10 to 30 microns.

The decorative cosmetic preparation according to the invention may be formulated as a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, as an alcoholic or alcohol-containing formulation, as a vesicular dispersion of an ionic or non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, as a gel, or a solid stick or powder. Preferably the cosmetic preparation is in the form of a liquid.

As a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetically tolerable adjuvant contains preferably from 5 to 50 % of an oily phase, from 5 to 20 % of an emulsifier and from 30 to 90 % water. The oily phase may contain any oil suitable for cosmetic formulations, e.g. one or more hydrocarbon oils, a wax, natural oil, silicone oil, a fatty acid ester or a fatty alcohol.

Cosmetic liquids may contain mono- or polyols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol.

Cosmetic formulations according to the invention may be contained in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations. Especially the following decorative personal care preparations: facial make-up in the form of lipstick, eye shadow, liquid make-up, facial lotions, creams and powders (loose or pressed) or nail polish enamel, for example, come into consideration. Depending upon the form of the decorative personal care preparation, it will comprise, in addition to the coloring agents and masking agent, further constituents, for example sequestering agents, perfumes, thickening or solidifying (consistency regulator) agents, emollients, UV absorbers, skin-protective agents such as allantoin, glycerin, lanolin, 5 antioxidants and preservatives.

Compositions according to the invention may be prepared by physically blending suitable coloring agents and masking agents into personal care formulations by methods which are well known in the art. The examples illustrate several of such methods. The masking agents 10 may optionally be in a microencapsulated form.

In one embodiment of the method, the decorative cosmetic formulation comprises from 0.1 to 40% by weight, for example from 1 to 20 % by weight, and especially from 2 to 15 % by weight based on the total weight of the formulation, of the coloring agent(s) and 0.1% to 15 20%, preferably 0.5 to 15%, most preferably 1 to 12% by weight of at least one organic masking agent.

For purposes of this invention, the masking agent described above is not considered to be a coloring agent. It is possible for conventional inorganic masking agents such as titanium 20 dioxide and zinc oxide to be present. The essential attribute is that a sufficient amount of the organic UV absorber masking agent is present to perform the function of masking to produce a natural, non-chalky appearance when applied as part of the overall cosmetic composition.

The present invention further includes a method for cosmetic treatment of the body 25 comprising application of the inventive decorative cosmetic compositions onto at least a part of the body.

In a preferred embodiment, the decorative cosmetic composition comprises as organic masking agent a benzotriazole organic UV absorber having the formula:

in which T₂ is C_t -C₁₈ alkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl.

The following examples describe certain embodiments of this invention, but the invention is not limited thereto. It should be understood that numerous changes to the disclosed embodiments could be made in accordance with the disclosure herein without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. These examples are therefore not meant to limit the scope of the invention. Rather, the scope of the invention is to be determined only by the appended claims and their equivalents. In these examples all parts given are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

The following application examples demonstrate the utility of the compositions of the invention on various parts of the human body, such as the face, lips, eyelids, hands, nails, arms, or legs.

1. Example 1 - Lipstick

Procedure:

Phase A is combined, heated to between 90-105°C, and mixed until uniform. Phase B is then added with stimng until homogenous. The temperature is maintained above 70°C as the lipstick is poured into the mold. Example 2 - Creamy Eye Shadow

Procedure:

Make a slurry of phase B and homogenize into A. When a uniform dispersion is obtained, homogenize C into AB mixture and heat to 70-75°C with adequate agitation. Heat D to 75- 80°C and mix until uniform. Add D to ABC mixture with adequate agitation. Cool to 50-55°C and add E with adequate agitation. At 45°C, add F with adequate agitation. Continue agitation until batch reaches room temperature.

Example 3 - Talc Free Loose Face Powder

Procedure:

Mill together A until fully dispersed. Add B to A and blend until uniform.

Example 4 - Oil-in-water Facial Foundation

Procedure:

Combine ingredients in phase A using a homogenizer and begin heating to 80 -85°C. Add phase B and C and homogenize for 1 hour. Cool to 75°C. Add phase D. In a separate beaker combine ingredients in phase E, heat to 75-80°C and mix until uniform. After all ingredients in phase E have become uniform slowly add to the main phase while continuing to homogenize. Upon complete addition of phase D, homogenize for 15min at 80°C then begin cooling the batch. At 60°C switch to paddle mixing using moderate agitation. Phase E is added and mixed until homogenous mixture obtained. At 50°C phase F is added. The batch is cooled until it reaches room temperature.

1. Example 5 - Press Powder Eye Shadow (purple)

Procedure:

Combine ingredients and mix well. Heat to 100°C and press at 2000psi.

Example 6 - Nail Enamel (purple)

Procedure:

Combine phase A and mix until uniform. Combine phase B in a separate vessel and mix until uniform. Add phase B to phase A with stirring until uniform.

Claims

WE CLAIM:

1. A decorative cosmetic composition, which comprises at least one coloring agent and at least one organic masking agent.

2. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which comprises no inorganic oxide-containing colorant perceived as white by the human eye in daylight conditions.

3. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which contains at least one oxide-containing colorant perceived as white by the human eye in daylight conditions in addition to the organic masking agent.

4. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , in which the coloring agent is an inorganic or organic pigment.

5. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the coloring agent is microencapsulated or incorporated into a polymer matrix.

6. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the coloring agent is in the form of finely divided particles, the average diameter of which is less than about 100

7. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the organic masking agent is an organic UV absorber having a refractive index of at least 1.

8. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the organic masking agent is a micronized insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorber.

9. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 8, in which the micronized insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorber is of the formula:

in which Ti is Cι-Cι₈alkyl or hydrogen; and T₂ is Cι-Cι₈alkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl.

10. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 9, in which Ti is hydrogen and T₂ is α,α-dimethylbenzyl.

11. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 8, in which the insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorber is of the formula:

in which T₂ is CrCι₈alkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl.

12. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 8, in which the insoluble benzotriazole organic UV absorber is of the formula:

in which T₂ is CrCι₈alkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl.

13. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 12, in which T₂ is octyl.

14. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the organic masking agent is in the form of finely divided particles, the average diameter of which ranges from .02 micron to 2 microns.

15. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the coloring agent is a blend of 2 or 3 primary colors.

16. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , which comprises from about 0.1 to 40% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, of the coloring agent and organic masking agent as well as at least one cosmetically tolerable carrier or adjuvant other than water.

17. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is formulated as a water- in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, as an alcoholic or alcohol-containing formulation, as a vesicular dispersion of an ionic or non-ionic amphiphilic lipid, as a gel, or a solid stick or powder.

18. A decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of lipstick, eye shadow, liquid make-up, facial lotions, creams and powders or nail polish enamel.

19. A method for cosmetic treatment of a body, which comprises application of a decorative cosmetic composition according to claim 1 onto at least a part of said body.

20. A method according to claim 19, wherein the decorative cosmetic composition comprises as organic masking agent a benzotriazole organic UV absorber having the formula:

in which T₂ is Ci -C₁₈ alkyl, optionally substituted by phenyl.