HEMMING MACHINE
The invention relates to a hemming machine for hemming a textile article using an adhesive strip.
References herein to "hemming" are intended to encompass all methods of finishing an edge of fabric with a folded edge, including folding the edge of fabric and securing it in place to form a hem, folding an additional strip of fabric about the edge of fabric and securing it in place in order to bind the edge of fabric or folding the edges of two pieces of fabric and securing the folded edges together to form a seam.
References herein to "an adhesive strip" are intended to encompass all forms in which a hot melt and/or pressure adhesive may be provided in a strip-like manner, including a thread of hot melt and/or pressure adhesive; a strip of hot melt and/or pressure adhesive film either alone or on a carrier substrate, such as an elastic substrate; and an elastic or other carrier substrate incorporating a hot melt and/or pressure adhesive e.g. Grilon (RTM) threads in the elastic or carrier substrate or small amounts of hot melt and/or pressure adhesive periodically located on the surface of the elastic or carrier substrate.
It is desirable to minimise the appearance of seams in textile articles, particularly garments, during manufacture in order to produce a smoother line in the finished article. This is particularly applicable to ladies underwear, shirts and any under or outer garments requiring a hem, and can be achieved by forming the article so that it is substantially free from seams. It can also be achieved by minimising the amount of sewing required to form a seam.
One manner in which the amount of sewing can be minimised is to form a seam using alternative fixing means to sewing such as, for example, hot melt film.
The use of hot melt film to adhere two layers of fabric together requires the provision of pressure and heat. This is commonly provided in laminating machines by two heated belt feeds arranged to feed the layers of fabric therebetween while applying heat and pressure to melt the hot melt film and adhere the layers of fabric together.
However, laminating machines incorporating two heated belt feeds are not suitable for creating a shaped hem, i.e. a hem which follows a curved contour, since prior known laminating machines only operate in a straight line.
According to an aspect of the invention there is provided a hemming machine for hemming a textile article using an adhesive strip comprising a support and a feed assembly arranged to draw a textile article across the support, the feed assembly including a belt feed arranged to move between a first position where the belt feed is spaced from the support, permitting insertion of a textile article between the belt feed and the support, and a second position where the belt feed is moved towards the support such that, when a textile article is located between the belt feed and the support, the belt feed presses the textile article against the support.
The provision of a feed assembly arranged to draw the textile article across the support allows the textile article to be fed through the machine at a constant rate, reducing the risk of the fabric becoming puckered and allowing the machine to be used to hem textile articles having curved edges as well as straight edges.
According to a second aspect of the invention there is provided a sewing machine conversion kit to convert a sewing machine into a hemming machine for hemming a textile article using an adhesive strip comprising an attachment adapted to replace a sewing machine presser foot, the attachment including a belt feed.
According to a third aspect of the invention there is provided a method of hemming a textile article using an adhesive strip comprising the steps of: (i) folding a marginal edge of the textile article to form a hem and inserting an adhesive strip such that the adhesive strip is located in the internal space of the hem; and (ii) feeding the hem between a belt feed and a support, the belt feed applying pressure to the hem to seal the hem.
According to a fourth aspect of the invention there is provided a hemming machine for hemming a textile article using a hot melt strip comprising a support, a feed assembly arranged to draw a textile article across the support while pressing the textile article against the support, and a nozzle connected to a source of heated air and arranged to direct heated air into the internal space of a hem formed in a textile article containing a hot melt strip, to pre- melt the hot melt strip, downstream of the feed assembly.
According to a fifth aspect of the invention there is provided a method of hemming a textile article using a hot melt strip comprising the steps of:
(i) folding a marginal edge of the textile article to form a hem and inserting a hot melt strip such that the hot melt strip is located in the internal space of the hem; (ii) directing a jet of heated air into the internal space of the hem, to pre- melt the hot melt strip; and
(iii) feeding the hem between a feed assembly and a support, the feed assembly applying pressure to the hem to seal the hem.
Other advantageous features of the invention are defined in the dependent claims.
Preferred'embodiments of the invention will now be described, by way of non-limiting examples, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:
Figure 1 shows a hemming machine according to an embodiment of the invention;
Figure 2 shows a support and feed assembly of the hemming machine of Figure 1 ; Figure 3 shows the support and a secondary feed assembly of the hemming machine of Figure 1;
Figure 4 shows a presser foot and driven belt of the feed assembly of Figure 2;
Figures 5 and 6 show a hem-forming foot of the hemming machine of Figure 1 ;
Figures 7 and 8 show a hot melt strip delivery assembly of the hemming machine of Figure 1 ;
Figure 9 is a schematic representation of a hem as it is fed into the hemming machine of Figure 1 ; Figure 10 is a cross-sectional view along the line A-A of Figure 9; and
Figure 11 is a cross-sectional view along the line B-B of Figure 9.
A hemming machine 10 according to an embodiment of the invention is shown in Figure 1.
The hemming machine 10 includes a support 12 and a feed assembly 14 including a heated presser foot 16 and a driven belt 18 extending around the presser foot 16 to form a heated belt feed (Figure 2). The belt 18 is preferably formed of Teflon (RTM).
The presser foot 16 is preferably movable between a first position where the belt 18 is spaced from the support 12, and a second position where the belt 18 is moved towards the support 12. The extent of movement of the presser foot 16 may be adjustable to adjust the position of the belt 18 relative to the support 12 in the first and second positions.
In the embodiment shown in Figure 1, the support 12 is in the form of a plate 20, and the hemming machine 10 includes a second feed assembly 22 having a pair of claw feeds 24,26, each claw feed protruding through an aperture 28,30,31 formed in the plate 20 (Figure 3). The claw feeds 24,26 may be arranged to provide a differential feed.
The use of a differential feed, in combination with the heated belt feed, is advantageous when the hemming machine 10 is being used to form a hem in a relatively delicate fabric. This is because the differential feed assists in feeding the fabric through the machine 10, and thereby reduces the risk of the fabric rucking or puckering. It thereby assists in producing a smoother hem.
In other embodiments, the second feed assembly 22 may be modified to include a single claw feed, or to include a driven belt extending around the plate so as to provide a secondary feed over the surface of the plate 20. In yet further embodiments, the second feed assembly 22 may be excluded.
In embodiments where the second feed assembly 22 is excluded, the plate 20 may be covered with a material having a relatively low co-efficient of friction such as, for example, Teflon (RTM). This reduces the amount of friction generated between the plate 20 and a textile article being drawn over the plate 20 during use.
Alternatively, the plate 20 may include a free-funning belt (preferably formed of Teflon (RTM)) extending around the plate 20 in alignment with the belt 18 of the feed assembly 14 such that it is free to move about the plate 20. The provision of the free-running belt reduces the amount of friction generated between the plate 20 and a textile article being drawn over the plate 20.
Preferably the plate 20 includes a plurality of output nozzles 32 connected to a source of heated air (not shown) and arranged to direct jets of heated air towards the driven belt 18.
In addition, or alternatively, the plate 20 may be heated by means of a heating element (not shown) located beneath the plate 20.
The provision of output nozzles 32 directing heated air towards the driven belt 18, and or the provision of a heated plate 20, reduces the amount of heat required from the heated belt feed, in use, to melt a hot melt strip enveloped between two layers of fabric. It thereby improves the efficiency of the hemming machine 10.
Preferably, as shown in Figure 4, the heated presser foot 16 includes an output nozzle 34 connected to a source of heated air (not shown). The presser foot output nozzle 34 is preferably arranged to direct a jet of heated air to a position in front of and downstream of the driven belt 18.
The hemming machine 10 preferably includes a hem- forming foot 36 positioned downstream of the driven belt 18 (Figures 5 and 6). The foot 36 is mounted to a hot melt strip delivery assembly 38 by means of a hollow leg 40 which defines a channel 42 to receive a hot melt strip 44.
The channel 42 terminates in an aperture (not shown) on a lower surface" of the foot 36, allowing the hot melt strip 44 to pass out of the bottom of the foot 36. The hemming machine 10 preferably includes an additional support 46 located beneath the hem- forming foot 36 and extending towards the driven belt 18, thereby providing a support surface for the hot melt strip 44.
An upper surface of the foot 36 is preferably shaped to form a sloped surface 48, and an air nozzle 50 is preferably attached to the hot melt strip delivery assembly 38 to direct a jet of air towards the sloped surface 48.
A second air nozzle 51 is preferably attached to the hot melt strip delivery assembly 38 to direct a jet of air towards the path of the hot melt strip 44 from the hem- forming foot 36 and the feed assembly 14, midway along its length.
The hot melt strip delivery assembly 38 (Figures 7 and 8) includes a roll 47 of hot melt strip 44 and a feeding mechanism 45 to feed the hot melt strip into the channel 42 in the hollow leg 40 of the hem- forming foot 36.
The hot melt strip delivery assembly 38 preferably includes a control device to control the rate at which the hot melt strip 44 is delivered to the hem- forming foot 36. The control device may also be adapted such that, at the start of a hemming procedure, the control device can be activated to deliver a predetermined amount of the hot melt strip 44 to the hem- forming foot 36.
The amount of the hot melt strip 44 delivered to the hem- forming foot 36 at the start of a hemming procedure is preferably chosen such that the hot melt strip 44 extends from the hem-forming foot 36 to the edge of the plate 20, as shown in Figure 5.
The hot melt strip 44 shown in Figure 5 is a strip of hot melt film.
In other embodiments of the invention it is envisaged that the hot melt strip 44 may be a laminated structure including an elastic substrate having a hot melt film laminated to one or both of its surfaces. The elastic substrate could, for example, be a strip of elastomeric material or a woven strip of elastomeric yarns. In use, a laminated structure of this type permits the formation of an elasticated hem.
In yet further embodiments of the invention, it is envisaged that an elastic or other carrier substrate may incorporate hot melt adhesive. For example, the substrate may incorporate Grilon (RTM) threads or small amounts of hot melt adhesive located periodically on the surface of the substrate. Once the predetermined amount of the hot melt strip 44 has been delivered to the hem- forming foot 36, the edge of a piece of fabric to be hemmed is passed under the hem- forming foot 36 so that the hot melt strip 44 is located between the foot 36 and the fabric.
The fabric is positioned such that its' marginal edge protrudes from the opposite side of the foot 36 and can be folded to rest on the sloped surface 48 of the hem- forming foot 36, thereby forming a hem enveloping the hot melt strip, as shown schematically in Figures 9 and 10. A jet of air provided by the air nozzle 50 forces the fabric against the sloped surface 48, and so prevents the fabric from unfolding.
A jet of air provided by the second air nozzle 51 preferably forces the fabric towards the additional support 46 midway between the hem- forming foot 36 and the presser foot 16 to prevent the fabric unfolding between the hem- forming foot 36 and the presser foot 16.
The heated presser foot 16 is moved to its second position such that the driven belt 18 is moved away from the plate 20. The hem, containing the hot melt strip 44 is then located between the driven belt 18 and the plate 20 before moving the heated presser foot 16 back to its first position to press the hem against the plate 20.
The driven belt 18 is then driven to draw the hem across the plate 20 while applying heat and pressure thereto to melt the hot melt strip 44 and seal the hem, as shown schematically in Figure 11.
Simultaneously, the control device of the hot melt strip delivery assembly 38 feeds the hot melt strip 44 to the hem-forming foot 36 to continue feeding the hot melt strip 44 into the hem prior to it being drawn under the heated presser foot 16 by the driven belt 18.
While the driven belt 18 draws the hem across the plate 20, the presser foot output nozzle 34 preferably directs heated air into the internal space of the hem, downstream of the driven belt 18, as shown schematically in Figure 9. This serves to pre-melt the hot melt strip 44 before it passes under the driven belt 18. It therefore reduces the amount of heat required from the heated presser foot 16 to seal the hem.
In addition, heat is preferably applied to the hem from beneath either via heated air from output nozzles 32 provided in the plate 20 or from a heating
element located beneath the plate 20. This also reduces the amount of heat required from the heated presser foot 16 to seal the hem.
Since the use of heated air from output nozzles 32 in the plate 20, and from a presser foot output nozzle 34, reduce the amount of heat required from the heated presser foot 16, the temperature of the presser foot 16 may be reduced. This is particularly advantageous when the fabric is relatively delicate since it reduces the risk of burning or marking the fabric.
In embodiments where the hemming machine 10 includes a second feed assembly 22, in the form of claw feeds 24,26 or a second driven belt, the second feed assembly 22 is driven at the same time as the driven belt 18 to assist the driven belt 18 in drawing the envelope of fabric across the plate 20.
In other embodiments, the feed assembly 14 may be adapted so that it does not apply heat to the hem during a hemming procedure.
In embodiments using a holt melt adhesive strip, the hot melt adhesive strip may be melted by directing a jet of heated air into the internal space of the hem enveloping the hot melt strip downstream of the feed assembly. Further heating, to assist the melting of the hot melt strip, may be provided by jets of heated air directed at the underside of the hem as the hem is drawn between the feed assembly 14 and the support 12.
In embodiments using a pressure adhesive strip the hem is sealed by the pressure of the feed assembly 14 against the support 12.
While the invention has been described with specific reference to the formation of a hem along the edge of a piece of fabric, it is envisaged that
the hemming machine may be used to secure two pieces of fabric together where one of the pieces of fabric is folded about an edge of the other piece of fabric such as, for example, in a binding or seaming operation.