WO2004062615A2

WO2004062615A2 - Tactile agents

Info

Publication number: WO2004062615A2
Application number: PCT/US2004/000664
Authority: WO
Inventors: Maurice Gerard Lynch
Original assignee: Fmc Corporation
Priority date: 2003-01-10
Filing date: 2004-01-12
Publication date: 2004-07-29
Also published as: WO2004062615A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to tactile agents that can be used in, for example, a variety of cosmetic liquids and foams such as shaving foams and cleansing foams. The tactile agents are colloidal microcrystalline cellulose and an esterified seaweed polysaccharide such as esterified alginate and esterified carrageenan.

Description

TACTILE AGENTS

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to tactile agents and cosmetic compositions containing the tactile agents, for example, cosmetic liquids and foams such as cleansing liquids, cleansing foams and shaving foams. The tactile agent is at least one of colloidal microcrystalline cellulose and an esterified seaweed polysaccharide.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

Cosmetic compositions are typically formulated to be pleasant to use, insofar as it is possible to achieve this within the constraints dictated by economics, efficacy and regulatory considerations. Frequently, consumers prefer a smooth, silky-skin or hair-feel. This is often achieved by including a tactile agent in a formulation. Many tactile agents are known in the art. Examples of commonly used tactile agents include oils, polymers and botanical extracts. Examples of oils used as tactile agents include mineral oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils. A particulary useful oil is silicone oil. Common polymers used as tactile agents include modified celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, and natural polymers such as xanthan gum, carrageenan, and alginate.

However, there are disadvantages associated with the use of the above tactile agents. These disadvantages include increased costs of ingredients and manufacturing. For example, the use of an oil as a tactile agent in a water-continuous cosmetic formulation requires the addition of an emulsifier to the formulation and an emulsification procedure during manufacturing. This procedure typically involves heating separately an oil phase and a water phase to about 75°C, then combining and homogenizing the phases using a high shear mixer, followed by controlled cooling. The equipment and energy costs associated with the emulsification procedure increase the cost of the cosmetic formulation. Another example of increased costs associated with tactile agents known in the art relates to the use of polymers as tactile agents. Such polymers are often difficult to disperse and dissolve. Many tactile agents provide no benefit other than a tactile benefit.

Furthermore, the characteristics of cosmetic formulations can be negatively affected by tactile agents, either directly or indirectly. For example, the emulsifiers used to incorporate oil tactile agents into formulations can have a negative affect on the well-being of the skin or hair by removing the natural protective layer. In addition, emulsions are typically opaque and the production of a formulation with good clarity is difficult. A further disadvantage of the use of oil as a tactile agent is that oil can block skin pours and contribute to problems such as acne.

The use of polymer tactile agents tends to increase the viscosity of formulations and, in some cases, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, the skin- feel of the formulation is not universally acceptable due to a tacky perception. Increased viscosity has the disadvantage of reducing the ease with which a formulation can be processed and delivered from its container. This is particularly problematic when a low viscosity formulation is desirable. Typically, low viscosity is desirable in the cases of cleansing liquids, lotions or solutions impregnated into wipes, liquid cosmetics dispensed through foam-producing nozzles, and cosmetics dispensed through spray nozzles. Typically, foaming properties are negatively impacted by increased viscosity, especially when using non-pressurized containers.

Therefore, a need exists for tactile agents that can be easily and economically incorporated into cosmetic formulations.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to tactile agents and cosmetic compositions comprising such tactile agents, wherein the tactile agent comprises colloidal microcrystalline cellulose and esterified seaweed polysaccharides. Such cosmetic compositions may be liquids or foams. It has been found that such esterified seaweed polysaccharides can be easily and economically incorporated into cosmetic formulations and are useful as tactile agents. These tactile agents contribute benefits to cosmetic liquids and foams including improved appearance, richness, lubricity, skin-feel, smoothness, and the ease of spreading on the skin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Microcrystalline cellulose is a purified, partially depolymerized cellulose that is produced by treating a source of cellulose, preferably alpha cellulose with a mineral acid. The acid selectively hydrolyses the less ordered regions of the cellulose polymer chain, thereby exposing and freeing the crystallite sites that form aggregates. These aggregates make up microcrystalline cellulose.

Colloidal microcrystalline cellulose is obtained by reducing the particle size of microcrystalline cellulose by attrition and stabilizing the attrited particles to avoid formation of hard aggregates. The method of drying may be any method that ultimately produces a reconstitutable powder. One such method is spray drying, -which can be used to produce microcrystalline cellulose coprocessed with a binder such as sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carrageenan, alginate, pectin and pectates, and xanthan. Techniques for reducing the particle size of microcrystalline cellulose and/or for spray drying microcrystalline cellulose are disclosed in Durand, U.S. Pat. No. 3,539,365; Krawczyk, U.S. Pat. No. 6,025,037; Venables, U.S. Pat. No. 6,037,080, and Tuason, U.S. Pat. No. 6,392,368. Provided sufficient colloidal microcrystalline cellulose is present in the composition to control rheology, the composition may also comprise larger microcrystalline particles, for example, particles that have not been attrited or only partially attrited.

Colloidal microcrystalline celluloses comprising microcrystalline cellulose and the sodium salt of carboxymethylcellulose are commercially available. AVICEL® RC-581 and AVICEL® RC-591 each contain microcrystalline cellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose in a ratio of approximately 89/11 , by weight. A preferred colloidal microcrystalline cellulose is AVICEL® RC 591 , which has an average particle size of less than 1 micron as determined with a Horiba Cappa 700 particle size analyzer.

Colloidal microcrystalline cellulose forms a three dimensional structuring network when dispersed in water. Dispersion is achieved by adding microcrystalline cellulose, which is typically available commercially as a powder, to water and applying sufficient shear to cause separation of individual microcrystals.

Examples of esterified seaweed polysaccarides include esterified agar, esterified alginate, esterified carrageenan and esterified furcellaran. Preferred esterified seaweed polysaccharides of the invention include esterified alginates and esterified carrageenans. Esterified alginates are most preferred. Preferred esterified alginates include propylene glycol alginate, butylene glycol alginates, ethylene glycol alginates and hexylene glycol alginates. Examples of commercially available esterified alginates include propylene glycol alginates that typically have degrees of esterification of 30 to 95%. For example, propylene glycol alginates are marketed under the tradename Protanal® ester and sold by FMC

Corporation. A preferred propylene glycol alginate is Protanal® ester CF sold by FMC Corporation having a degree of esterification of approximately 90%. Cosmetic compositions of the invention include any liquid or foam composition that provides a cosmetic benefit to the skin, hair or nails. The cosmetic compositions can be used for purposes such^' as cleansing, whitening, tanning, decoration, protection or to provide a dermatological function such as, for example, moisturizing. The cosmetic compositions may contain an active ingredient. Examples of active ingredients include UV filters, sunless-tanning agents, such as dihydroxyacetone, anti-aging actives, skin-whitening agents, hair and skin conditioning agents, exfoliating agents, moisturizing agents, pharmaceutical actives, vitamins, antioxidants, oxidizing agents, reducing agent and enzymes.

The cosmetic composition may contain at least one of a pigment, a dye, a preservative, an emollient, an emulsifier, a fragrance, an emulsifier, a surfactact, a rheology control agent, a binder and a film former.

It has now been discovered that the use of colloidal microcrystalline cellulose and esterified seaweed polysaccharides overcome some of the problems associated with tactile agents of the art.

In particular, propylene glycol alginate has been found to provide a pleasing silky skin-feel to liquid and foam cosmetics. This is advantageous as it provides a means for the creation of cosmetics that are both clear and have a smooth silky skin-feel. Since the invention avoids the need to use an oil-in-water emulsion to achieve a smooth skin-feel, it avoids the associated production and ingredient costs, lack of clarity and increased viscosity. Propylene glycol alginate is easy to incorporate into cosmetic compositions since it is readily soluble in cold water. Furthermore, the low viscosity resulting from the use of propylene glycol alginate as a tactile agent does not interfere with the production of foam when the composition is dispensed from its container. Propylene glycol alginate also increases the stability of the foam.

Colloidal microcrystalline cellulose has been found to provide improved skin-feel in shaving foams. In addition, the shaving properties of the foam were improved.

The tactile agents of the invention have applications in various cosmetic compositions including liquid and foam compositions. Examples of cosmetic liquid compositions include cleansing liquids, toning liquids and moisturizing liquids. Cosmetic liquid compositions can be impregated into cloth or paper tissue to form wet wipes.

Cosmetic foam compositions are marketed in a range of formats. A common format is a non-foamed liquid, solution or dispersion that will form foam as it is dispensed from its container. Containers can be unpressurized or pressurized, for example with gases including butane, isobutane and propane. Typically, unpressurized containers rely on the use of special nozzles to develop sufficient shear to create foam. These types of containers are often referred to as finger-pump foamers. Examples include M3 foamer pumps available from Airspray International BV. Examples of cosmetics applications utilizing foams from non- pressurized containers include cleansing foams, moisturizing foams, depilatory foams, sunscreen foams, and hair care foams including hair styling foams, hair cleansing foams, hair conditioning foams and hair coloring foams. Examples of cosmetic applications utilizing foams from pressurized containers include shaving foams, shower foams, cleansing foams, moisturizing foams, sunscreen foams, depilatory foam, self-tanning foams and hair care foams including hair styling foams, hair cleansing foams, hair conditioning forms and hair coloring foams.

The use level of the tactile agents of the invention in cosmetic compositions is typically from about 0.1 wt% to 5wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

The present invention is now described in more detail by reference to the following examples, but it should be understood .that the invention is not construed as being limited thereto. Unless otherwise indicated herein, all parts, percents, ratios and the like are by weight.

EXAMPLES

In all cases below the water used was deionized water.

Materials

INCI name Tradename Supplier Function

Cocoamidopropyl Amphosol CG Stepan Cleansing betaine

Glycerin Pricerine 9083 Uniqema Moisturizer

Laureth 23 Brij 35 Uniqema Foaming agent

Microcrystalline Avicel® RC 591 FMC BioPolymer Tactile agent cellulose and cellulose gum^a Propane Propane UN 1965 Benegas Propellant

Propylene glycol Germaben II ISP Preservative and diazolidinyl urea and methylparaben and propylparaben

Propylene glycol Protanal® FMC BioPolymer Tactile agent alginate ester CF^b

Sodium lauroyl Crodasinic LS95 Croda Cleansing agent Sarcosinate Oleochemicals

Sodium laureth Texapon NSO Cognis Cleansing agent sulphate

Stearic acid Pristerene 9559 Uniqema Foaming agent

Triethanolamine Triethanolamine BASF Neutralization of

Resin Pure C stearic acid

^aMicrocrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum (85/15, by weight) approximately 80% of the carboxyl groups of alginate are esterified with propylene glycol

Preparation of shaving foam compositions

The preparation of all shaving foams involved using ingredients as set forth below. Phase A:

The ingredients of phase A in all examples were combined and heated to 75°C while stirring gently. Phase B:

For Comparative Example 1-1 , all ingredients were added to water in the order mentioned, while mixing with a propeller mixer and then heated to 75°C. For Examples 2-1 and 2-2, Avicel® was dispersed in water using a Silverson rotor-stator mixer at maximum speed (8,000 rpm) for 5 minutes. The remaining ingredients were added in the order mentioned while mixing with a propeller mixer and the mixture was heated to 75°C. For Example 2-3, Protanal® ester CF was mixed with glycerin then added to water using a propeller mixer. The remaining ingredients were added in the order mentioned and the mixture was heated to 75°C.

Phase A was then added to Phase B at 75°C and the mixture was homogenized using a Silverson rotor-stator mixer at 8,000 rpm for 5 minutes. The mixture was then cooled to 35°C while stirring slowly with a propeller mixer.

Phase C:

The ingredients of Phase C for all examples were added in the order mentioned to the above mixture of phase A and phase B. Mixing was continued while cooling to 25°C.

Pressurizing:

For each Example, 96 g of the above formulation was added to an aerosol can (150 ml capacity). The can was sealed and pressurized by adding 4 g of propane then shaken vigorously. The products were stored at room temperature (approximately 20°C) before being evaluated.

Evaluation of shaving foams After one week storage at room temperature, shaving foams were subjected to a General Evaluation, involving measurement of pH, and assessment of general foam characteristics and tactile properties.

In some cases, products were subjected to a Panel Evaluation. This protocol involved 4 men shaving one half of the face with a 'control' formulation and the other half with a test formulation on 4 consecutive days. The test formulation was identical to the control formulation except that a portion of the water in the control formulation was replaced with the tactile agents of the present invention as noted.

Preparation of cleansing liquids and foams

All preparation was at room temperature. For Comparative Examples 3-1 and 3-2, glycerin was added to water as the first ingredient. For Inventive Examples 4-1 , 4-2, 4-3 and 4-4, Protanal® ester was mixed with glycerin before being added to water and mixed for 10 minutes using a propeller mixer. The remaining ingredients were added in the order mentioned, with each being dissolved by mixing before adding the next. Where pH adjustment is noted in the Examples, this was done using a 10% solution of citric acid. The resulting solution was placed in a transparent plastic bottle fitted with a finger-pump style nozzle (model: M3, foamer pump, Airspray International BV).

Evaluation of cleansing liquids and foams After storage at room temperature for 3 days, the compositions were evaluated as follows. The pH of the liquid composition was measured. The color and clarity of the liquid were evaluated visually. The formulation was then ejected through the foaming nozzle into a 33.4 ml plastic cup. The weight required to fill the cup was determined and the density reported as kg per litre. The amount of water loss from the foam was evaluated visually after 2 hours. The skin-feel of the liquid product and the resulting foam were evaluated by a panel of 4 individuals.

COMPOSITION

Comparative Example 1-1

Composition 1-1

%

Phase A

Stearic acid 8.0

Laureth-23 2.0

Phase B

Water 84.4

Glycerin 4.0

Sodium laureth sulphate 1.0

Triethanolamine 3.5

Phase C

Preservative 1.0

Perfume 0.1 Results

1-1

General Evaluation

Foam appearance Good

Foam richness Good

Foam volume Good

Skin-feel Good

Spreading Good

PH 8.7

Inventive Examples 2-1 to 2-3

These Examples illustrate the benefits of including microcrystalline cellulose and propylene glycol alginate in shaving foams.

Composition 2-1 2-2 2-3

% % %

Phase A

Stearic acid 8.0 8.0 8.0

Laureth-23 2.0 2.0 2.0

Phase B

Water 79.9 79.4 79.'

Avicel® RC 591 0.5 1.0 -

Protanal® ester CF 1.0

Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0

Sodium laureth sulphate 1.0 1.0 1.0

Triethanolamine 3.5 3.5 3.5

Phase C

Preservative 1.0 1.0 1.0

Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 Results

General Evaluation (compared to Comparative Example 1 -1 ) 2-1 2-2 2-3

Foam Appearance Similar Similar Similar

Foam richness Better Better Better ,

Foam volume Similar Similar Similar

Skin-feel Better Better Better

Spreading Better Better Similar pH 8.7 8.7 8.6

For the above attributes, the rating of better refers to the following: Foam richness: An increased perception of luxury Skin-feel: An increased perception of softness and smoothness. Spreading: An improved tendency for the foam to spread evenly over the skin. i

Panel Evaluation In comparison with Comparative Example 1-1 , all four panelists agreed that Example 2-2 had superior skin-feel. Examples 2-1 and 2-3 were not tested by Panel Evaluation.

Comparative Examples 3-1 and 3-2.

These Examples are cleansing solutions of the type typically marketed in unpressurized finger-pump spray containers. These were prepared without the addition of propylene glycol alginates. The pH of Comparative Example 3-2 was adjusted to approximately 7.

Composition 3-1 3-2

% %

Water 88.9 88.9

Glycerin 4.0 4.0

Sodium laureth sulphate 4.0 -

Sodium lauryl sulphate - 4.0

Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.0 2.0

Germaben II 1.0 1.0

Perfume 0.1 0.1 Results

3-1 3-2

Liquid pH 6.7 7.0

Color Colorless Colorless

Clarity Clear Clear

Viscosity Low Low

Skin-feel Water-like Water-like

Foam

Density 0.095 -

Color White White

Clarity Opaque Opaque

Skin-feel Water-like Water-like

Water loss (2 hours) High -

Inventive Examples 4-1 to 4-4

These Examples illustrate benefits of propylene glycol alginate as a tactile agent in both liquid and foamed cosmetics. The benefits in liquid cosmetics are apparent from the evaluation of the liquid prior to pumping and the benefits in foamed cosmetics are apparent from the evaluation of the foam resulting from pumping the liquid through the foamer nozzle. The pH of Examples 4-3 and 4-4 was adjusted to approximately 7.

Composition

4-1 4-2 4-3 4-4

% % % %

Water 88.4 87.9 88.4 87.9

Protanal ester CF 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0

Glycerin 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0

Sodium laureth sulphate 4.0 4.0 - -

Sodium lauroyl sulphate - - 4.0 4.0

Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0

Germaben II 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Results

4-1 4-2 4-3 4-4

Liquid pH 5.7 5.0 7.0 7.0

Color Colorless Colorless Colorless Colorless

Clarity Clear Clear Clear Clear

Viscosity Low Low Low Low

Skin-feel Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth

Foam

Density 0.100 - - -

Color White White White White

Clarity Opaque Opaque Opaque Opaque

Skin-feel Smooth Smooth Smooth Smooth

Water loss (2 hours) Moderate - - -

It was agreed by all 4 panelists that Examples 4-1 to 4-4 had better skin- feel compared to Comparative Examples 3-1 and 3-2.

While the invention has been described in detail and with reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope thereof.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a tactile agent, wherein said cosmetic composition is a cosmetic liquid or foam, and said tactile agent comprises at least one of a colloidal microcrystalline cellulose and esterified seaweed polysaccharide.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said esterified seaweed polysaccharide is at least one of an esterified alginate and an esterified carrageenan.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein said esterified alginate is propylene glycol alginate.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said propylene glycol alginate has a degree of esterification of at least 50%.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said propylene glycol alginate has a degree of esterification of at least 80%.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said colloidal microcrystalline cellulose has an average particle size of less than 10 microns.

7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said colloidal microcrystalline cellulose has an average particle size of less than 1 micron.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said cosmetic liquid further comprises at least one of a surfactant, moisturing agent, toning agent, coloring agent, fragrance, hair styling agent, preservative, self-tanning agent, sunscreen agent, emulsifier, propellant, preservative, pH modifier and cleansing agent.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein said cosmetic liquid has a viscosity of less than about 1 ,000 mPa s when measured at 20°C and a shear rate of 100 s^"1.

10. The cosmetic composition of claim 9, having the proviso that no oil is present in said cosmetic liquid.

11. The cosmetic composition of claim 8, wherein said cosmetic liquid is clear.

12. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said cosmetic foam further comprises at least one of a surfactant, moisturing agent, toning agent, coloring agent, fragrance, hair styling agent, preservative, self-tanning agent, sunscreen, film former, emulsifier, propellant, preservative, pH modifier, cleansing agent and depilatory agent.

13. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 , wherein said tactile agent is present in an amount of 0.1 wt% to 5wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.

14. A tactile agent comprising at least one of colloidal microcrystalline cellulose and an esterified seaweed polysaccharide.

15. The tactile agent of claim 14, wherein said esterified seaweed polysaccharide is at least one of an esterified alginate and an esterified carrageenan.

16. The tactile agent of claim 15, wherein said esterified alginate is propylene glycol alginate.

17. The tactile agent of claim 14, wherein said colloidal microcrystalline cellulose has an average particle size of less than 10 microns.

18. The tactile agent of claim 14, wherein said colloidal microcrystalline cellulose has an average particle size of less than 1 micron.

19. A cosmetic wet wipe composition comprising the cosmetic liquid of claim 1.