WO2003061614A1 - Composition d'apres-shampooing - Google Patents

Composition d'apres-shampooing Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003061614A1
WO2003061614A1 PCT/EP2002/013565 EP0213565W WO03061614A1 WO 2003061614 A1 WO2003061614 A1 WO 2003061614A1 EP 0213565 W EP0213565 W EP 0213565W WO 03061614 A1 WO03061614 A1 WO 03061614A1
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Prior art keywords
conditioning
hair
thermotropic
cationic
water
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PCT/EP2002/013565
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English (en)
Inventor
Christopher Ian Murray
Stephen Lee Wire
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Unilever Plc
Unilever Nv
Hindustan Lever Limited
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Publication of WO2003061614A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003061614A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • This invention relates to hair conditioning compositions.
  • hair conditioning compositions which improve the combability, softness or manageability of the hair.
  • compositions which provide conditioning to the hair are well know in the art.
  • Such compositions comprise one or more conditioning agents.
  • the purpose of the conditioning agent is to make the hair easier to comb when wet and more manageable when dry, e.g. less static and flyaway. They also make the hair feel softer.
  • these conditioning agents are either water-insoluble oily materials which act by spreading on the hair in the form of a film, or cationic surfactant materials or polymers, which adsorb onto the hair surface .
  • conditioning materials can be employed in a variety of product forms including cleansing shampoos, rinse-off conditioners (usually applied to the hair after shampooing) and leave-on products such as hair oils or serums, mousses and styling products.
  • water-insoluble oily conditioning materials are dispersed in aqueous products in the form of small droplets or particles in order to facilitate the stability of the dispersion to phase separation and to enhance the deposition of the oily material onto the hair.
  • a preferred water-insoluble oily conditioning material is based on silicone polymers, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes, with or without various functionalising groups.
  • Non-silicone conditioning oils include hydrocarbon oils and triglycerides .
  • cationic surfactants Although these cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and water-insoluble oily conditioning materials provide conditioning effects to the hair, it is desirable to improve the conditioning effects obtainable from them.
  • thermotropic mesogenic materials into hair conditioning formulations can provide improvements in conditioning performance in terms of combability, softness and manageability of the hair.
  • the invention provides a hair conditioning composition comprising from 0.001 to 50% by weight of a thermotropic mesogenic material.
  • Another aspect of the invention is concerned with the improvement of the hair conditioning characteristics of a water-insoluble conditioning material by the addition of a thermotropic mesogenic material to said water-insoluble conditioning material .
  • water-insoluble is meant that a material is not soluble in water at a concentration of 0.5% by weight, based on weight of water, at 25 °C.
  • stable to phase separation is meant that when a dispersion of two or more components is formed my intimate mixing of the components, said components remain in a mixed state rather than separating into regions of isolated components.
  • droplets of a dispersion stable to phase separation comprise all the components of the original mixture, in substantially the same ratio as when the dispersion was formed, several weeks after the preparation of the original mixture.
  • the thermotropic mesogenic material is incorporated into the water-insoluble oily conditioning material .
  • the preferred level of thermotropic mesogenic material is 0.01% or greater, more preferably 0.05% or greater, even more preferably 0.1% or greater and most preferably 1% or greater by weight expressed as a percentage of the total weight of blended thermotropic mesogen and oily conditioning material.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material is intimately mixed with the oily conditioning material prior to the incorporation of the conditioning material into the final hair conditioning composition, whereby the mesogenic material and the water- insoluble oily conditioning material are in the form of a dispersion stable to phase separation, preferably a single phase blend.
  • the oily conditioning material comprising the thermotropic mesogen may be the main constituent of the final conditioning product.
  • a cationic surfactant is intimately mixed with the thermotropic mesogenic material and with the oily conditioning material prior to the incorporation of the conditioning material into the final hair conditioning composition.
  • the preferred level of cationic surfactant in the intimate blend is 0.001% or greater, more preferably 0.01% or greater, even more preferably 0.1% or greater and most preferably 1% or greater by weight expressed as a percentage of the total weight of blended thermotropic mesogen, oily conditioning material and cationic surfactant.
  • thermotropic mesogen preferably 40% or less, even more preferably 25% or less and most preferably 10% or less by weight of the cationic surfactant expressed as a percentage of the total weight of blended thermotropic mesogen, oily conditioning material and cationic surfactant.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material is selected in order to allow miscibility with the oily conditioning material such that the blend of the two materials forms a dispersion stable to phase separation, preferably a single phase over some range of ratios of thermotropic mesogen to oily conditioning material.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material comprises a silicone-based polymeric segment in its molecular structure.
  • thermotropic mesogen is furnished with phenyl groups
  • oily conditioning material is a silicone
  • the silicone should also have phenyl groups, whereby the thermotropic mesogenic material and the silicone-based oily conditioning material are miscible.
  • thermotropic mesogenic materials can be incorporated into hair conditioning products, irrespective of whether oily conditioning materials are also present in the final product.
  • the thermotropic mesogen should be 0.001% or greater, more preferably 0.01% or greater, most preferably 0.1% or greater by weight of the total composition. There should be 10% or less, more preferably 5% or less, most preferably 3% or less by weight of thermotropic mesogenic material with respect to the composition.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material is incorporated into a hair conditioner composition
  • a hair conditioner composition comprising cationic surfactant and fatty material which forms a lamellar phase in combination with the cationic surfactant at room temperature (25 °C) .
  • suitable fatty materials include fatty acids (i.e. CIO to C22) , long chain fatty alcohols (i.e. CIO to C22) and ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material is incorporated into the composition prior to or during the formation of the aqueous lamellar phase dispersion which arises from the combination of cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol. This can be accomplished by pre-blending the thermotropic mesogenic material with the fatty material prior to its addition to the composition, or by adding the thermotropic mesogenic material to the rest of the composition at an elevated temperature (typically above 40 °C) such that the lamellar dispersion forms as the composition is cooled to room temperature.
  • elevated temperature typically above 40 °C
  • Mesogens are materials which form liquid crystalline phases (also known as mesophase) under certain conditions.
  • the liquid crystalline phase is a state of matter which is less ordered than crystals and more ordered than liquids.
  • the liquid crystalline phase flows like isotropic liquids, but exhibit anisotropic behaviour in mechanical and optical properties. This anisotropy distinguishes the liquid crystalline phase from glasses and amorphous waxy materials.
  • Mesogens can be broadly classified into two types of materials: thermotropic mesogens and lyotropic mesogens.
  • Thermotropic mesogens form a liquid crystalline phase in a defined temperature range between the temperatures at which they exist as solid or as liquid. They are capable of forming a liquid crystalline phase without having to be mixed with any other material . Such a phase is called a thermotropic liquid crystalline phase.
  • lyotropic mesogens require the presence of an additional solvent in order to form the liquid crystalline phase.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material here means a material which is capable of forming a liquid crystalline phase in the absence of any added solvent.
  • thermotropic mesogenic material is used here to define a class of materials suitable for the purposes of the invention, which are defined by their ability to form thermotropic mesophases in isolation from the compositions of the invention. It does not indicate that thermotropic mesophases necessarily exist in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Thermotropic mesogens can be classified as low molecular mass liquid crystals and as polymeric liquid crystals and both are suitable for compositions according to the invention.
  • thermotropic mesogens are those which exist as a ther optropic liquid crystal at a temperature between 0°C and 50 °C, preferably between 20°C and 40 °C.
  • thermotropic mesogenic materials can be divided into calamities (rod- or lath- like molecules) and discotic (disc-like molecules) . Both are suitable for this invention.
  • calamitic thermotropic liquid crystals can in general be sub-divided into three main categories with respect to the degree of long range orientational and positional order; nematic, smectic, and chiral analogues (of nematic and smectic) .
  • Discotic thermotropic liquid crystals can in general also be sub-divided into three main categories with respect to the degree of long range orientational and positional order; nematic, columnar and their chiral analogues (of nematic and columnar) .
  • thermotropic mesogenic materials of the present invention do not form chiral mesophases, more preferably they form phases which are nematic and/or smectic/columnar in nature.
  • Mesomorphism can also be exhibited by polymeric materials. If calamitic or discotic mesogenic groups are attached to flexible polymer chains as side groups, or incorporated into the polymer main chain, mesophases can arise.
  • the mesogenic groups are groups that possess a structure that is compatible with the production of thermotropic liquid crystal phases, i.e. low molecular mass liquid crystal structures.
  • Polymer chains can also arrange in an anisotropic fashion, especially if the chain is rigid in nature.
  • Polymeric liquid crystals can be either thermotropic or lyotropic mesogens, but for this invention thermotropic mesogenic polymers are preferred.
  • liquid crystalline polymers In general, two classes of liquid crystalline polymers can be described; liquid crystal main chain polymers where the mesogenic groups are included in the polymer main chain, and liquid crystal side chain polymers (known as comb-like) , where the mesogenic group is attached as a side group.
  • the mesogenic group can be calamitic or discotic. In the mesomorphic state, the mesogenic groups adopt a parallel configuration, while the polymer chain does not. With regard to this present invention, all these polymeric classes are suitable.
  • Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses, oils, styling products, hair colouring products or lotions.
  • Preferred hair treatment composition forms are shampoos, conditioners and mousses.
  • a particularly preferred hair conditioning composition in accordance with the invention is a shampoo composition.
  • Shampoo compositions according to the invention will comprise a hair conditioning component, preferably a water- insoluble oily conditioning material .
  • Such a shampoo composition will comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Further surfactants may be present as an additional ingredient if sufficient for cleansing purposes is not provided by the emulsifier for the water-insoluble oily component. It is preferred that shampoo compositions of the invention comprise at least one further surfactant (in addition to that used as emulsifying agent for the water-insoluble oily component) to provide a cleansing benefit.
  • Suitable cleansing surfactants which may be used singularly or in combination, are selected from anionic, nonionic amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cleansing surfactant may be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or may be different.
  • Shampoo compositions according to the invention will typically comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha- olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts.
  • the alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated.
  • the alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule .
  • Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
  • the most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3) , ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (n) EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3) .
  • the total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 5 to 30, preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably from 8 to 16 percent by weight of the composition.
  • the shampoo composition can optionally include co- surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.
  • a preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from 1 to 4 percent by weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines) , alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates , alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl ar ⁇ idopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate .
  • nonionic surfactant which can be included in an amount ranging from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 5 percent by weight of the composition.
  • nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di- ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide .
  • nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs) .
  • the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups .
  • Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO - (G) n
  • R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide grou .
  • R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C 5 to about C 2 o-
  • R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C ⁇ to about C 12 • Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5.
  • G may be selected from C 5 or CQ monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside.
  • G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.
  • G is glucose.
  • the degree of polymerisation, n may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more.
  • the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.1 to about 2.
  • the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.3 to about 1.5.
  • Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel .
  • sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include the
  • Cio-Cie N-alkyl (Ci-C ⁇ ) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides such as the C 12 -C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as Cio-Cis N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide .
  • the shampoo composition can also optionally include one or more cationic co-surf ctants included in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt%.
  • cationic co-surf ctants included in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 wt%.
  • Useful cationic surfactants are described hereinbelow in relation to conditioner compositions .
  • the total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant , and/or any emulsifier) in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 5 to 50, preferably from 5 to 30, more preferably from 10 to 25 percent by weight of the composition.
  • a cationic polymer is a preferred ingredient in shampoo compositions of the invention, for enhancing conditioning performance of the shampoo .
  • the cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or be formed from two or more types of monomers .
  • the molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000, typically at least 10 000 and preferably in the range 100 000 to about 2 000 000.
  • the polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof .
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units.
  • Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition.
  • the ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymer having a cationic charge density in the required range .
  • Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamides, alkyl (meth) acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine.
  • the alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably Cl-3 alkyl groups.
  • Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol .
  • the cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.
  • Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
  • the cationic conditioning polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers .
  • Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example : copolymers of 1-vinyl-2 -pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3 - methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g. chloride salt), referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16.
  • CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
  • This material is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC 370);
  • cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;
  • cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.
  • cationic polysaccharide polymers have a charge density in the range from 0.1 to 4 meq/g .
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include those of the formula:
  • A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual.
  • R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene
  • R , R and R independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms .
  • X is an anionic counterion.
  • Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
  • CTFA trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.
  • Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581).
  • a particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series) .
  • Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity.
  • JAGUAR C15 having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity
  • JAGUAR C17 high degree of substitution, high viscosity
  • JAGUAR C16 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups
  • JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.
  • the cationic conditioning polymer is selected from cationic cellulose and cationic guar derivatives.
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162.
  • the cationic conditioning polymer will generally be present in compositions of the invention at levels of from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.05 to 1, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.5 percent by weight of the composition.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also be formulated as conditioners for the treatment of hair (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.
  • Such a conditioner will comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture.
  • Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the invention contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention.
  • suitable cationic surfactants are those corresponding to the general formula:
  • Ri, R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 are independently selected from
  • X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulphate, and alkylsulphate radicals.
  • halogen e.g. chloride, bromide
  • acetate citrate
  • lactate glycolate
  • phosphate nitrate phosphate nitrate
  • sulphate and alkylsulphate radicals.
  • the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the most preferred cationic surfactants for conditioner compositions of the present invention are monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compounds in which the alkyl chain length is C16 to C22.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants include: cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammonium chloride and salts of these where the chloride is replaced by halogen, (e.g. , bromide)
  • cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5 , Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable.
  • a particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in hair conditioners of the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese.
  • Salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants.
  • the alkyl groups of such amines preferably have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and can be substituted or unsubstituted.
  • amido substituted tertiary fatty amines include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyidiethylamine , stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyld imethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachid amidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidoethyl
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N- tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidyl behenylamine .
  • These amines are typically used in combination with an acid to provide the cationic species.
  • the preferred acid useful herein includes L- glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L- glutamic hydrochloride, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.
  • Cationic amine surfactants included among those useful in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055 to Nachtigal, et al . , issued June 23, 1981.
  • the molar ratio of protonatable amines to H from the acid is preferably from about 1:0.3 to 1:1.2, and more preferably from about 1:0.5 to about 1:1.1.
  • the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10, more preferably 0.05 to 5, most preferably 0.1 to 2 wt% of the total composition.
  • cationic surfactants detailed in this section are also suitable for use in the aspect of the invention wherein a cationic surfactant is intimately mixed with the thermotropic mesogenic material and with the oily conditioning material prior to the incorporation of the conditioning material into the final hair conditioning composition
  • Conditioner compositions of the invention preferably additionally comprise fatty materials.
  • fatty materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
  • fatty material is meant a fatty alcohol, an alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the alkyl chain of the fatty material is full saturated.
  • Representative fatty materials comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22.
  • suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.
  • Alkoxylated, (e.g. ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty alcohols having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of, or in addition to, the fatty alcohols themselves. Suitable examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether, and mixtures thereof .
  • the level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention is suitably from 0.01 to 15, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt% .
  • the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, optimally from 1:1 to 1:7, for example 1:3.
  • Conditioner compositions of the invention can also contain a cationic polymer. Suitable cationic polymers are described hereinabove in relation to shampoo compositions.
  • the hair conditioning composition especially if it is a shampoo composition, further comprises from 0.1 to 5 wt% of a suspending agent.
  • Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic' acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives.
  • the long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, alkanolamides of fatty acids having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
  • Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives .
  • Polyacrylic acid is available commercially as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493.
  • Polymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with a polyfunctional agent may also be used, they are available commercially as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980.
  • An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing a monomer and acrylic acid esters is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trade mark) materials are available from Goodrich.
  • Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2.
  • a suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example that available as Kelzan mu.
  • the suspending agent is preferably a polymeric suspending agent .
  • compositions of this invention preferably also contain one or more conditioning agents selected from silicone conditioning agents and non-silicone oily conditioning agents.
  • the droplets When conditioning agent is present in the hair treatment compositions in droplet form, the droplets may be liquid, semi-solid or solid in nature, so long as they are substantially uniformly dispersed in the fully formulated product. Any droplets of oily conditioning agent are preferably present as either liquid or semi-solid droplets, more preferably as liquid droplets.
  • compositions of the invention can contain emulsified droplets of a silicone conditioning agent for enhancing conditioning performance.
  • the silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and so is present in an emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed droplets .
  • Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular p ⁇ lydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol . Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. These materials can impart body, volume and stylability to hair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning.
  • the viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is
  • 2 -l itself is preferably at least 60,000 mm sec , most 2 -1 preferably at least 500,000 mm sec , ideally at least
  • the viscosity does not exceed
  • Emulsified silicones for use in the shampoo compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone droplet size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 micrometres ( ⁇ m) . We have found that reducing the droplet size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average silicone droplet size of the emulsified silicone in the composition is less than 2 ⁇ m, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 ⁇ m. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone droplet size of ⁇ 0.15 ⁇ m are generally termed microemulsions .
  • Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the invention are also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.
  • Suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2- 1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol.
  • Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.
  • a preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2- 1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.
  • a further preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.
  • a further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional silicones.
  • amino functional silicone is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Suitable amino functional silicones include:
  • x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of the polymer, generally such that the molecular weight is between about 5,000 and 500,000.
  • G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or Ci- ⁇ alkyl, e.g. methyl; a is 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , preferably 0 ; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1; m and n are numbers such that (m + n) can range from 1 to 2000, preferably from 50 to 150; m is a number from 1 to 2000, preferably from 1 to 10; n is a number from 0 to 1999, preferably from 49 to 149, and
  • R is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH 2 qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an aminofuctional group selected from the following:
  • R is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, e.g. C ⁇ _ 2 o alkyl, and A is a halide ion, e.g. chloride or bromide.
  • Suitable amino functional silicones corresponding to the above formula include those polysiloxanes termed “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” as depicted below, and which are sufficiently water insoluble so as to be useful in compositions of the invention:
  • x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the number x + y is in the range of from about 100 to about 300.
  • R and R may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, saturated or unsaturated long or short chain alk(en)yl, branched chain alk(en)yl and C5-C 8 cyclic ring systems;
  • R thru' R may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, straight or branched chain lower alk(en)yl, and C 5 -C 8 cyclic ring systems;
  • n is a number within the range of about 60 to about 120, preferably about 80, and
  • X is preferably acetate, but may instead be for example halide, organic carboxylate, organic sulphonate or the like.
  • Suitable quaternary silicone polymers of this class are described in EP-A-0 530 974.
  • Amino functional silicones suitable for use in shampoos and conditioners of the invention will typically have a mole % amine functionality in the range of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 mole %, most preferably from about 0.1 to about 2.0 mole %. In general the amine concentration should not exceed about 8.0 mole % since we have found that too high an amine concentration can be detrimental to total silicone deposition and therefore conditioning performance.
  • the viscosity of the amino functional silicone is not particularly critical and can suitably range from about 100
  • amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75, (ex General Electric Silicones) . Also suitable are emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with nonionic and/or cationic surfactant.
  • Such pre-formed emulsions will have an average amino functional silicone droplet size in the shampoo composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 ⁇ m. Again, we have found that reducing the droplet size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average amino functional silicone droplet size in the composition is less than 2 ⁇ m ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 ⁇ m.
  • Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC929 Cationic Emulsion, DC939 Cationic Emulsion, and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2- 8154 (all ex Dow Corning) .
  • quaternary silicone polymer useful in the present invention is the material K3474, ex Goldschmidt.
  • compositions according to the invention intended for the treatment of "mixed" hair (i.e. greasy roots and dry ends)
  • a combination of amino functional and non-amino functional silicone in compositions of the invention, especially when these are in the form of shampoo compositions.
  • the weight ratio of amino functional silicone to non-amino functional silicone will typically range from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably 1:3 to 1:20, more preferably 1:3 to 1:8.
  • the total amount of silicone incorporated into compositions of the invention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to 10 wt% for incorporation into a shampoo or conditioner formulation, although these limits are not absolute.
  • the lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and the upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and/or skin unacceptably greasy.
  • a total amount of silicone of from 0.3 to 5, preferably 0.5 to 3 percent by weight of the composition is a suitable level in a shampoo or conditioner formulation.
  • the viscosity of silicones and silicone emulsions can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set out further in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM004, July 20 1970.
  • compositions comprising silicone it is preferred that a suspending agent for the silicone also be present.
  • Suitable suspending agents are as described hereinabove.
  • compositions according to the present invention may also comprise a dispersed, non-volatile, water-insoluble oily conditioning agent .
  • This component will be dispersed in the composition in the form of droplets, which form a separate, discontinuous phase from the aqueous, continuous phase of the composition.
  • the oily conditioning agent will be present in the shampoo composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the D 3/2 average droplet size of the oily conditioning component is at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.8, and more preferably at least 1 ⁇ m. Additionally, the D 3/2 average droplet size of the oily conditioning component is preferably no greater than 10, more preferably no greater 8, more preferably no greater than 5, yet more preferably no greater than 4, and most preferably no greater than 3.5 ⁇ m.
  • D 3 , 2 droplet size can be measured suitably using light scattering techniques in apparatus such as a Malvern Mastersizer .
  • the oily conditioning agent may suitably be selected from oily or fatty materials, and mixtures thereof.
  • Oily or fatty materials are preferred conditioning agents in the shampoo compositions of the invention for adding shine to the hair and also enhancing dry combing and dry hair feel.
  • Preferred oily and fatty materials will generally have a viscosity of less than 5 Pa.s, more preferably less than 1 Pa.s, and most preferably less than 0.5 Pa.s, e.g. 0.1 Pa.s and under as measured at 25°C with a Brookfield Viscometer (e.g. Brookfield RV) using spindle 3 operating at 100 rpm.
  • a Brookfield Viscometer e.g. Brookfield RV
  • Oily and fatty materials with higher viscosities may be used.
  • materials with viscosities as high as 65 Pa.s may be used.
  • the viscosity of such materials i.e. materials with viscosities of 5 Pa.s and greater
  • Suitable oily or fatty materials are selected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.
  • Hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated) , and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated) .
  • Straight chain hydrocarbon oils will preferably contain from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms.
  • Branched chain hydrocarbon oils can and typically may contain higher numbers of carbon atoms.
  • polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers such as C 2 -C 6 alkenyl monomers . These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers .
  • the straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above for straight chain hydrocarbons in general .
  • the branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain length.
  • the number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 2000, preferably from about 200 to about 1000, more preferably from about 300 to about 600.
  • hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil, mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated and unsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturated and unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated exadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well as of higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used.
  • Exemplary branched-chain isomers are highly branched saturated or unsaturated alkanes, such as the permethyl-substituted isomers, e.g., the permethyl- substituted isomers of hexadecane and eicosane, such as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 8 -dimethyl-10 -methylundecane and 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, sold by Permethyl Corporation.
  • a further example of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as the copolymer of isobutylene and butene.
  • a commercially available material of this type is L-14 polybutene from Amoco Chemical Co. (Chicago, 111., U.S.A.) .
  • Particularly preferred hydrocarbon oils are the various grades of mineral oils.
  • Mineral oils are clear oily liquids obtained from petroleum oil, from which waxes have been removed, and the more volatile fractions removed by distillation. The fraction distilling between 250°C to 300°C is termed mineral oil, and it consists of a mixture of hydrocarbons ranging from C 6 H 34 to C 21 H 44 .
  • Suitable commercially available materials of this type include Sirius M85 and Sirius M125, all available from Silkolene.
  • Suitable fatty esters are characterised by having at least 10 carbon atoms, and include esters with hydrocarbyl chains derived from fatty acids or alcohols, e.g., monocarboxylic acid esters, polyhydric alcohol esters, and di- and tricarboxylic acid esters.
  • the hydrocarbyl radicals of the fatty esters hereof can also include or have covalently bonded thereto other compatible functionalities, such as amides and alkoxy moieties, such as ethoxy or ether linkages .
  • Monocarboxylic acid esters include esters of alcohols and/or acids of the formula R ' COOR in which R' and R independently denote alkyl or alkenyl radicals and the sum of carbon atoms in R 11 and R is at least 10, preferably at least 20.
  • alkyl and alkenyl esters of fatty acids having aliphatic chains with from about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms and alkyl and/or alkenyl fatty alcohol carboxylic acid esters having an alkyl and/or alkenyl alcohol-derived aliphatic chain with about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms, benzoate esters of fatty alcohols having from about 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the monocarboxylic acid ester need not necessarily contain at least one chain with at least 10 carbon atoms, so long as the total number of aliphatic chain carbon atoms is at least 10.
  • Examples include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, dihexyldecyl adipate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, oleyl stearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate, and oleyl adipate.
  • Di- and trialkyl and alkenyl esters of carboxylic acids can also be used. These include, for example, esters of C 4 -C 8 dicarboxylic acids such as C ⁇ _-C 22 esters (preferably Ci-Cg) of succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, and octanoic acid. Examples include diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, and diisopropyl sebacate . Other specific examples include isocetyl stearoyl stearate, and tristearyl citrate.
  • Polyhydric alcohol esters include alkylene glycol esters, for example ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol monooleate, polypropylene glycol monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, polyglycerol poly-fatty acid esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters and mono-, di-and triglycerides .
  • alkylene glycol esters for example ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene
  • Particularly preferred fatty esters are mono-, di- and triglycerides, more specifically the mono-, di-, and tri- esters of glycerol and long chain carboxylic acids such as
  • C ⁇ -C 22 carboxylic acids can be obtained from vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as coconut oil, castor oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, lanolin and soybean oil.
  • Synthetic oils include triolein and tristearin glyceryl dilaurate.
  • preferred materials include cocoa butter, palm stearin, sunflower oil, soyabean oil and coconut oil.
  • sucrose polyester oils such as sucrose erucate (commercially available under the trade names Surfhope SE C2101 or C2102) .
  • the oily or fatty material is suitably present in shampoo or conditioner compositions at a level of from 0.05 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, more preferably from about 0.5 to 3 percent by weight of the composition.
  • compositions of this invention preferably contain no more than 3 wt% of a styling polymer, more preferably less than 1% of a styling polymer, preferably contain less than 0.1% by weight a styling polymer, and optimally are free of styling polymer.
  • a cationic polymer In hair treatment compositions containing a conditioning agent, it is preferred that a cationic polymer also be present .
  • Hair treatment compositions in accordance with the invention may also take the form of aerosol foams (mousses) in which case a propellant must be included in the composition. This agent is responsible for expelling the other materials from the container and forming the hair mousse character.
  • the propellant gas can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers.
  • suitable propellants include dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane and isobutane, used singly or in admixture.
  • the amount of the propellant gases is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art.
  • the level of propellant is generally from 3 to 30, preferably from 5 to 15 percent by weight of the total composition.
  • surfactant ranging anywhere from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to about 1 percent by weight of the composition, for example 0.3 percent by weight of the composition may be present in the hair mousse compositions of the invention.
  • the surfactant may be an anionic, nonionic or cationic emulsifier. Particularly preferred are nonionic emulsifiers which are formed from alkoxylation of hydrophobes such as fatty alcohols, fatty acids and phenols.
  • Hair oils are also suitable conditioning compositions according to the invention. Hair oils are predominantly comprise water-insoluble oily conditioning materials as described herein. Lotions are aqueous emulsions comprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Suitable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability to phase separation.
  • compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care.
  • adjuvants suitable for hair care Generally such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 percent by weight of the total composition.
  • suitable hair care adjuvants are (i) natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars .
  • suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof.
  • the amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di- and tripeptides.
  • the amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate.
  • Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e.g. fruit extracts.
  • a particularly preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose.
  • a particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine.
  • Ceramides for moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity.
  • Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides .
  • a preferred ceramide is Ceramide II, ex Quest.
  • Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as
  • compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and/or scalp of a human subject, either in rinse-off or leave-on compositions, to improve hair fibre surface properties such as smoothness, softness, manageability, cuticle integrity, and shine.
  • Premix A is a single phase blend prepared by mixing 5% by weight of 4-n-pentyl-4 ' -cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material with 95% by weight of sunflower oil.
  • CB 4-n-pentyl-4 ' -cyanobiphenyl
  • Example 1 is a comparative example of a conditioner comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson) , 3% sunflower oil and water to 100%.
  • the sunflower oil was added to the base after the L ⁇ gel had formed at 40 °C.
  • Example A is a conditioner according to the invention.
  • Example A comprises 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson) , 3% Premix A and water to 100%.
  • the Premix A was added to the base after the L ⁇ gel had formed at 40 °C.
  • the examples 1 and A were assessed for their effect on the wet combing force on hair switches. Results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 2 is a comparative example of a conditioner comprising 1.67% behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3.33% Laurex CS and water to 100%.
  • Example B is a conditioner according to the invention, comprising 1.67% behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3.33% Laurex CS, 0.2% 4 -n-pentyl-4 ' -cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material and water to 100%.
  • the mesogen was premixed with the Laurex CS and the behenyltrimethylammonium chloride then the premix was then dispersed water at a temperature greater than 80 °C prior to cooling to room temperature.
  • Example 3 is a comparative example of a conditioner comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson) , and water to 100%.
  • a conditioner comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson) , and water to 100%.
  • Example C is a conditioner according to the invention comprising 1% cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 3% Laurex CS (cetyl stearyl alcohol ex Albright and Wilson), 0.25% 4-n- pentyl -4' -cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material and water to 100%.
  • the mesogen was premixed with the Laurex CS and the premix was then added to the cetyltrimethylammonium chloride in water.
  • Example 4 is a comparative example of a hair oil which consists solely of sunflower oil.
  • Example D is a comparative example of a hair oil which consists solely of sunflower oil.
  • Example D is a hair oil according to the invention consisting of 5% 4 -n-pentyl-4 ' -cyanobiphenyl (5CB) thermotropic mesogenic material dispersed in sunflower oil .
  • Examples 4 and D were applied directly to identical hair switches which were than subjected to paired comparison testing by trained panellists for smoothness and ease of combing.
  • Table 4 shows the results obtained in terms of the percentage of votes for which example was preferred in the paired comparison.
  • compositions according to the invention provide conditioning benefits over the comparative examples

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions d'après-shampooing comprenant des substances mésogènes thermotropes, des procédés pour préparer de telles compositions et l'utilisation de mésogènes thermotropes pour améliorer l'état des cheveux.
PCT/EP2002/013565 2002-01-25 2002-11-29 Composition d'apres-shampooing WO2003061614A1 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2005079730A1 (fr) * 2004-02-21 2005-09-01 Unilever Plc Compositions de revitalisant capillaire et procedes de fabrication associes
US20160262993A1 (en) * 2013-10-11 2016-09-15 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0373988A1 (fr) * 1988-12-02 1990-06-20 L'oreal Composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique pour le traitement des cheveux et du cuir chevelu
EP0512270A2 (fr) * 1991-04-08 1992-11-11 Kao Corporation Composition cosmétique
EP0554897A2 (fr) * 1992-02-05 1993-08-11 Kao Corporation Nouveau dérivé de stérole, procédé pour sa préparation et les compositions dermatologique
JPH0648916A (ja) * 1992-07-30 1994-02-22 Kao Corp 化粧料

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0373988A1 (fr) * 1988-12-02 1990-06-20 L'oreal Composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique pour le traitement des cheveux et du cuir chevelu
EP0512270A2 (fr) * 1991-04-08 1992-11-11 Kao Corporation Composition cosmétique
EP0554897A2 (fr) * 1992-02-05 1993-08-11 Kao Corporation Nouveau dérivé de stérole, procédé pour sa préparation et les compositions dermatologique
JPH0648916A (ja) * 1992-07-30 1994-02-22 Kao Corp 化粧料

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DATABASE CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS [online] XP002241725, retrieved from STN Database accession no. 121:117313 *
J.C. LOUDET ET AL.: "nonaqueous liquid crystal emulsions", LANGMUIR, vol. 16, no. 16, 2000, pages 6724 - 6730, XP001151975 *

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2005079730A1 (fr) * 2004-02-21 2005-09-01 Unilever Plc Compositions de revitalisant capillaire et procedes de fabrication associes
US20160262993A1 (en) * 2013-10-11 2016-09-15 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres
US10219987B2 (en) * 2013-10-11 2019-03-05 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres

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