WO2002041721A1

WO2002041721A1 - Footwear with a lining laminate part covering part of the upper and process for producing it

Info

Publication number: WO2002041721A1
Application number: PCT/EP2001/013620
Authority: WO
Inventors: Max Rauch
Original assignee: W.L. Gore & Associates Gmbh
Priority date: 2000-11-23
Filing date: 2001-11-22
Publication date: 2002-05-30
Also published as: DE10058094C1; AU2002216051A1

Abstract

In footwear of which the upper (13) is constructed from parts of the upper stitched to one another, comprising an upper laminate (37) with an upper laminate outer material layer (41), an upper laminate lining material layer (43) and a waterproof, preferably water-vapor-permeable, upper laminate functional layer (39) located in between, a part of the upper which has become not waterproof, for example as a result of the seams (27, 29) perforating the upper laminate (37), is sealed by means of a lining laminate part (51) having a waterproof, preferably water-vapor-permeable, lining laminate part functional layer (53) and a lining laminate part lining material layer (57).

Description

Footwear with a lining laminate part covering part of the upper and process for producing it

The invention relates to footwear with an upper which has a top end of the upper and a bottom end of the upper and is constructed with an upper laminate comprising an outer material layer, a lining layer and a waterproof, preferably also water-vapor-permeable, functional layer located in between.

Footwear which has been made waterproof by means of a waterproof, water-vapor-permeable functional layer, maintaining breathability, is becoming increasingly popular and increasingly widely used, this being the case for an increasing number of different types of footwear. This involves using for the upper a water- vapor-permeable outer material, which, however, is frequently also water- permeable. The upper is made waterproof by lining it on the inside with a waterproof, water-vapor-permeable functional layer, maintaining the water-vapor permeability and consequently the breathability of the upper.

Examples of such footwear are shown in DE 295 18 124 Ul and WO 98/29000 Al.

Footwear according to DE 295 18 124 Ul has a shaft comprising an upper material layer and a lining laminate having a functional layer of the above-mentioned type, the shaft end region on the sole side being connected with an insole by means of a sewing seam. An outsole is molded to the insole and the lower shaft end. The sewing seam is covered by outsole material and is sealed during the molding of the outsole by outsole material being liquid during the molding.

The footwear according to WO 98/29000 Al has a shaft which comprises an upper material layer and a lining having a functional layer of the above-mentioned type. The lining is made of lining pieces stitched together. The sewing seams used for that purpose are sealed in a waterproof manner on the side opposite to the upper material layer by means of a seam-sealing tape.

Recently, lightweight summer shoes have also been included among the types of footwear that are provided with a functional layer of this type, these shoes being constructed in the manner of canvas shoes with a textile outer material which is part of a laminate comprising an outer material of this type, a functional layer on the inner side of said outer material and a lining layer on the inner side of said functional layer. The individual cut-to-size pieces which are required for making an upper are cut out from a laminate of this type in sheet form and stitched together to form an upper. At the locations of the seams, the functional layer of the laminate is perforated, with the result that the waterproofness is lost at the seam locations. To retain the waterproofhess at the seam locations as well, the seams are sealed on the side of the lining of the laminate facing the inside of the upper by seam-sealing tape which is adhesively bonded or fused onto the laminate over the seams.

Since footwear usually has a relatively large number of seams, in particular in the rear region of the foot, some of the seams being functional seams some being decorative seams, a coπespondingly large number of seams have to be sealed with seam-sealing tape. This is on the one hand labor- and cost-intensive and on the other hand leads to an esthetically unsatisfactory appearance of the inner side of the footwear, in particular in the rear region of the foot.

For reasons of dimensional stability, footwear, even lightweight summer footwear, is usually provided in the rear region of the foot with a reinforcing cap, which is located on the inner side of the outer material. In the case of footwear in which the upper is constructed with outer material and lining material separate from the latter, such a reinforcing cap can be inserted between the outer material and the lining material before the upper is closed by means of a sole construction. In the case of footwear wherein cut-to-size pieces of a laminate in which the outer material and the lining material are already joined to each other are used for the upper, it is not possible to introduce the reinforcing cap between the outer material and the lining material. In this case, the reinforcing cap would either have to be omitted or aπanged on the inner side of the laminate, that is on the lining side of the laminate. This would be disadvantageous for functional and aesthetic reasons. The present invention provides footwear in which the upper is made up of cut-to-size pieces of a laminate in which the disadvantages mentioned are overcome. On the one hand, in spite of a relatively large number of seams, seam sealing is required only at a few locations of the footwear. On the other hand, an unproblematic "concealed" aπangement of a reinforcing cap is also made possible in the case of footwear of this type.

This is achieved according to the invention by footwear of the type specified in claim 1 which can be produced by a process of the type specified in claim 14. Embodiments of footwear of this type and a process of this type are specified in the dependent claims. The invention creates footwear with an upper which has a top end of the upper and a bottom end of the upper and is constructed with an upper laminate comprising an upper laminate outer material layer, an upper laminate lining material layer and a waterproof, preferably also water-vapor-permeable, upper laminate functional layer located in between, and has a part of the upper which is at least partially not waterproof and which is sealed by means of a lining laminate part covering this part of the upper, having an inner lining laminate part lining material layer and, on the outer side of the latter, a waterproof, preferably water-vapor- permeable lining laminate part functional layer, with at least side edge regions of the lining laminate part that are located between the top end of the upper and the bottom end of the upper being joined to the upper laminate in a waterproof manner.

In embodiments of the invention, the waterproof joining is effected by waterproof fusing, by waterproof adhesive bonding or by means of a waterproof- sealing seam-sealing tape.

The lining laminate part is preferably aπanged on the inner side of the part of the upper sealed with it. It is also possible, however, to aπange the lining laminate part on the outer side of the part of the upper to be sealed with it.

In one embodiment of the invention, the lining laminate part is aπanged loosely in the part of the upper, with the exception of the fixing at the edges. In another embodiment of the invention, the lining laminate part is adhesively bonded in flat contact, preferably by its entire surface, to the part of the upper. To maintain breathability of the shoe even in the region of the lining laminate part, in the latter embodiment, when the lining laminate part is constructed with a water-vapor- permeable functional layer, the full surface adhesive bonding takes place either with a water-vapor-permeable adhesive or with a non-water-vapor-permeable adhesive which is, however, applied discontinuously, for example in the form of a pattern of spots or strips with adhesive gaps in between.

As a result of the fact that, according to the invention, a part of the upper which is not waterproof is covered by a lining laminate part having a lining laminate part lining material layer and a waterproof lining laminate part functional layer, with only edge regions of the lining laminate part being joined to the part of the upper in a waterproof manner, it is no longer necessary for all the seams of the upper that are covered by the lining laminate part each to be sealed individually.

If the sealing between the part of the upper and the lining laminate part is effected by means of seam-sealing tape, the seam-sealing tape need be applied only to the edge regions of the lining laminate part, but it is no longer necessary for all the seams of the upper that are covered by the lining laminate part each to be sealed individually with seam-sealing tape.

Since footwear has a relatively large number of seams, in particular in the rear part of the upper, a covering aπangement of a lining laminate part comes into consideration in particular in the rear part of the upper of such footwear. This also opens up the possibility of aπanging a reinforcing cap in the rear region of the shoe in a concealed manner, that is between the upper laminate forming the rear part of the upper and the lining laminate part aπanged on the inside there.

In an embodiment of the invention in which the lining laminate part is aπanged loosely on the part of the upper to be sealed with the exception of a fixing of the edges, the reinforcing cap is preferably adhesively bonded to the part of the upper and/or the lining laminate part. In an embodiment in which the lining laminate part is adhesively bonded at least partially over its entire surface to the part of the upper to be sealed, the fixing of the reinforcing cap preferably takes place on at least one side of the reinforcing cap by means of the adhesive used for the full surface adhesive bonding of the part of the upper and the lining laminate part.

The part of the upper which is at least partially not waterproof and which is sealed by means of a lining laminate part may be, for example, a part of the upper which has become not waterproof due to seams in the upper or a part of the upper which has no waterproof functional layer and is therefore not waterproof any wheree. In both cases, the waterproofness is established by the waterproof lining laminate part.

On account of the waterproofness being ensured by the lining laminate part, the part of the upper covered by the lining laminate part can be constructed without the use of a functional layer, which leads to functional layer material being saved and a coπesponding cost saving. In this case, the part of the upper covered by the lining laminate part is constructed just with ( not waterproof) outer material, that is to say the functional and decorative seams required in this part of the upper are only aπanged on the outer material. A functional layer is in this case aπanged only in the lining laminate part covering this part of the upper. In one embodiment of the invention, the side edge regions are not stitched to the upper laminate, but instead the fixing of the side edge regions to the upper laminate takes place exclusively by waterproof joining, in particular waterproof adhesive bonding, waterproof fusing or by means of seam-sealing tape. In another embodiment of the invention, the side edge regions of the lining laminate part are stitched to the upper laminate, with subsequent sealing of the seams by waterproof joining, in particular by waterproof adhesive bonding, by waterproof fusing or by means of seam-sealing tape. In a further embodiment of the invention, in which a full surface adhesive bonding of the lining laminate part to the upper takes place, the waterproof joining, in particular the waterproof adhesive bonding, the waterproof fusing or the application of seam-sealing tape, at the side edge regions of the lining laminate part serves merely for sealing purposes.

In an embodiment of the invention in which a non- waterproof rear part of the upper of the shoe is to be sealed, an upper laminate part forming a vamp and tongue region of the footwear is stitched by means of a vamp seam to a front part of the upper of the upper laminate, the lining laminate part covering the rear part of the upper is designed such that it extends up to the vamp seam, and the vamp seam and the side edge regions of the lining laminate part are sealed by means of adhesive seams, fusing seams or pieces of seam-sealing tape essentially continuing one after the other and roughly following the shape of a U. With appropriate shaping of the lining laminate part, the vamp seam and the side edge regions of the lining laminate part can in this case be sealed by means of a continuous adhesive seam or fusing seam or by means of a continuous piece of seam-sealing tape. This leads to particularly little expenditure in terms of work and, if applicable, little material expenditure with regard to the material of the seam-sealing tape. In a process according to the invention for producing footwear according to the invention, firstly an upper having a top upper end and a bottom upper end is produced at least partially from an upper laminate with an upper laminate outer material layer, an upper laminate lining material layer and a waterproof, preferably water-vapor-permeable upper laminate functional layer located in between. A part of the upper which is intrinsically non-waterproof or has become non-waterproof due to seams is sealed with a lining laminate part which covers it and has an inner lining laminate part lining material layer and, on the outer side of the latter, a waterproof, preferably water-vapor-permeable lining laminate part functional layer and is preferably aπanged in the part of the upper. In this case, at least side edge regions of the lining laminate part that are located in the region between the top end of the upper and the bottom end of the upper are joined to the upper laminate in a waterproof manner by means of waterproof joining, in particular by means of waterproof adhesive bonding, waterproof fusing or by means of waterproof seam-sealing tape.

The invention is suitable for all styles of footwear, in particular for footwear in which the end region of the upper on the sole side is joined to an insole by means of cement-lasting, for footwear in which the end region of the upper on the sole side is joined to an insole by means of a stitched seam, in particular a Strobel seam, and for footwear which is without an insole, at least in one region of its longitudinal extension, and in which the end region of the upper on the sole side is lashed together in the region without an insole by means of a lashing string (usually refeπed to as "string-lasting").

If an outer material and a functional layer are used for the upper which are not part of a laminate comprising the two, but instead belong to separate layers, the end region of the outer material on the sole side can be made shorter with respect to the end region of the functional layer on the sole side for all the styles mentioned. In embodiments of the invention, the end of the outer material on the sole side can be joined to the insole or to a lashing string securement by means of a gauze or net strip or some other joining material. Alternatively, the overhang of the end of the functional layer on the sole side, formed with respect to the end of the outer material on the sole side, may also remain uncovered by outer material or a joining material attached to the outer material. In all these cases, the end region of the lining laminate part on the sole side is incorporated into the respective joining mechanism between the end region of the upper on the sole side and the insole or the lashing string securement, for example by adhesive bonding or stitching to the insole or to the lashing string securement.

The invention is now explained in more detail on the basis of an embodiment. In the drawings:

Figure 1 shows a side view of a finished shoe of the type according to the invention; Figures 2 to 4 show various stages in the production of the still soleless upper of the shoe shown in Figure 1, in particular:

Figure 2 shows the upper after it has been stitched together from individual parts of the upper;

Figure 3 shows the upper after a lining laminate part has been arranged on the inner side of its rear-shoe part of the upper;

Figure 4 shows the upper provided with a lining laminate part after a seam-sealing tape has been applied;

Figure 5 shows a reinforcing cap for the rear part of the upper;

Figures 6 to 12 each show materials in a schematized cross-sectional representation not to scale, in particular: Figure 6 shows an upper laminate;

Figure 7 shows two upper laminate parts stitched to one another; Figure 8 shows the two stitched upper laminate parts and a lining laminate part aπanged on the inner side of the latter; Figure 9 shows the construction shown in Figure 8, but with a reinforcing cap inserted between the two stitched upper laminate parts and the lining laminate part;

Figure 10 shows an embodiment modified with respect to Figure 8 in which the parts of the upper just comprise outer material; Figure 11 shows an embodiment of a one-piece part of the upper which is constructed just from outer material and is sealed on the inside by a lining laminate part; and

Figure 12 shows the embodiment shown in Figure 11 with a reinforcing cap inserted between the outer material and the lining laminate part. Shown in the figures is an exemplary embodiment of a shoe according to the invention in which an upper laminate, comprising outer material, functional-layer material and lining material, and seam sealing tape for sealing are used and in which an upper and an insole are fastened to each other by means of cement-lasting.

Also suitable however are other constructions of footwear that are not represented, in particular the already mentioned constructions in which the outer material and the functional layer are not joined to form a common laminate and/or which have sole constructions in which the upper is stitched to an insole or held together by means of a lashing string, in particular with or without an overhang of the functional-layer end region on the sole side beyond the outer-material end region on the sole side and with or without a gauze or net strip or some other joining material on the outer-material end region on the sole side. And for the sealing, waterproof fused seams or waterproof adhesively bonded seams are also suitable instead of seam- sealing tape.

A shoe 11, represented in Figure 1, comprises an upper 13 and an outsole 15 aπanged on the sole-side end of the upper 13, for example cemented on to it. The upper 13 is made up of a plurality of parts of the upper which are fastened to one another by means of seams. These include a bottom part of the upper 17 adjacent to the outsole 15, a top part of the upper 21 adjacent to a slipping-in opening 19 of the shoe 11, a vamp 24 and a tongue 45 (Figure 2), which cannot be seen in Figure 1 and is joined to the vamp 24. The bottom part of the upper 17 has a front part of the upper 23 and a rear part of the upper 25, which are stitched on both longitudinal sides of the upper to the bottom part of the upper 17 by a side seam 27 in each case. The top part of the upper 21, the bottom part of the upper 17 and the vamp 24 are joined to one another by means of a longitudinal seam 29 running around the entire upper. The part of the longitudinal seam 29 running around the vamp 24 is also refeπed to below as the vamp seam 30. Aπanged in a forward region of the top part of the upper 21 are shoelace eyelets 31. This forward region of the top part of the upper 21 also has a row of front seams 33 and a joining seam 60. Underneath the slipping-in opening 19 there is a peripheral seam 35 following the contour of the slipping-in opening 19. At least some of the pieces of which the upper 13 is made of are constructed with an upper laminate 37 as represented in schematized form in cross section in Figure 6. The upper laminate 37 has an upper laminate functional layer 39, on the outer side of which there is a layer of upper laminate outer material 41 and on the inner side of which there is a layer of an upper laminate lining material 43. In this case, the terms outer side and inner side coπespond to the outer side and inner side of the shoe 11 for which the upper laminate 37 is being used.

The upper laminate outer material 41 and the upper laminate lining material layer 43 are each water-permeable and water- vapor-permeable. The outer-laminate functional layer 39 is waterproof and preferably also water-vapor- permeable. Water impinging on the upper laminate 37 from the outer side consequently cannot get to the upper laminate lining material layer 43 and consequently cannot get to the inner side of the shoe. Due to the water- vapor permeability of the upper laminate functional layer 39, water vapor which is produced on the surface of the foot as a result of sweating can, however, penetrate the outer-laminate functional layer 39 and be dissipated to the outer side of the shoe via the upper laminate outer material 41.

The term waterproof means that the material to be investigated can withstand a water ingress pressure of more than 0.13 bar. Preferably, the material can withstand a water pressure of more than 1 bar. The measurement takes place by subjecting a sample of the material to be investigated with a surface area of 100

2 cm to an increasing water pressure. For this purpose, distilled water at a temperature of 20 ± 2°C is used. The water pressure increases at 60 3 cm H₂O/minute. The water ingress pressure of the sample corresponds to the pressure at which water appears on the opposite side of the sample. The exact method for carrying out this test is described in ISO Standard No. 811 from 1981.

The waterproofness of seams is measured by means of the so-called Suter test in which a test sample of the laminate including the seam is stretched over a holder and the seam is subjected to distilled water at a temperature of 20 ± 2°C and a pressure of 0.13 bar on one side of the seam, the test sample being left for at least three minutes. The other side of the seam is examined using a filter paper to see whether or not water penetration through the seam has occuπed.

The term water-vapor-permeable is defined by the water vapor transmission resistance Ret of the material thus designated. The Ret is a specific material property of sheet-like structures or composites which determines the "latent" evaporation heat flux through a given surface area as a result of an existing steady- state partial pressure gradient. The Ret is defined in German standard DIN EN 31 092 of February 1984, which coπesponds to the international standard ISO 11 092, and is expressed in m² x Pa/W (square meters Pascal per watt). For measuring Ret, a measuring head is used, the temperature of which is 35 °C, at a relative atmospheric humidity of 40%, and an air speed of 1 m/second is set. The water vapor transmission resistance is measured by the Hohenstein skin model test, which is described in the standard test specification Ne. BPI 1.4 of September 1987 of the Bekleidungsphysiologisches Institut e.V. Hohenstein. Leather or textile fabrics are suitable for use as the upper laminate outer material 41. The textile fabrics may be, for example, woven or knitted fabrics, non- wovens or felt. These textile fabrics may be produced from natural fibers, for example from cotton or viscose, from synthetic fibers, for example from polyesters, polyamides, polypropylenes or polyolefms, or from blends of at least two such materials. Outer materials of this type are normally water-permeable and water-vapor- permeable. To make them water-repellent, they can be made hydrophobic, that is to say the upper laminate outer material 41 can be treated with a water-repellent material in such a way that the pores of the upper laminate outer material 41 remain open for water vapor transport. Coated materials, for example textiles coated with polyurethane, are also suitable as upper laminate outer material 41.

Particularly suitable as outer material for summer shoes is a cotton textile known by the term canvas, which is a textile material similar to the textile material used for jeans.

The upper laminate functional layer 39 is constructed with a membrane or a film and may be chosen from the following groups of materials: polyesters, polyamides, polyolefms, polyvinyl chlorides, polyketones, polysulfones, polycarbonates, fluoro-polymers including polytetrafluoroethylenes, poly-acrylates, polyurethanes, copolyether esters and copolyether amides and combinations of at least two of these materials. The polymers are preferably plastic polymers. Expanded, microporous polytetrafluoro-ethylene, which is waterproof and highly water-vapor- permeable, is particularly prefeπed for the functional layer. Microporosity usually refers to a pore size in the range from approximately 0.2 μm to approximately 0.3 μm.

In principle, the same materials as specified at the beginning for the upper laminate outer material 41 are suitable as upper laminate lining material 43, which is joined to the upper laminate functional layer 39 to form a functional layer laminate, provided that they can be adequately penetrated by sealing material in sealing processes in order that the sealing material can penetrate through to the functional layer in a sealing way. The sealing material is, for example, material which temporarily becomes liquid during fusing, adhesive which is used in adhesive bonding or, if seam-sealing tape is used, adhesive with which customary seam-sealing tape is provided. Prefeπed as upper laminate lining material 43 is a lining material known by the designation Traforato, which is a polyester knitted fabric, with a thickness of up to 0.2 mm being particularly suitable.

The laminating of the upper laminate outer material 41, the upper laminate functional layer 39 and the upper laminate lining material layer 43 to form the upper laminate 37 takes place by a direct adhesive bond between the upper laminate outer material 41 and the upper laminate functional layer 39 on the one hand and the upper laminate functional layer 39 and the upper laminate functional material layer 43 on the other hand. Adhesive which establishes a good bond between the material layers to be laminated is chosen for the laminating. During the laminating, the laminate adhesive is located between the layers to be laminated. Before the laminating, the laminate adhesive may optionally have been applied to one side of one of the layers to be laminated. If a water-vapor-permeable laminate adhesive is used, it can be applied as a continuous layer of adhesive. If a water-vapor-impermeable laminate adhesive is used, it is applied as a discontinuous layer of adhesive, that is to say in the form of spots, lines, grids, powder or the like, in order to maintain the breathability of the laminate. The laminate adhesive may also be inserted as an adhesive felt between the layers to be laminated. Suitable for example as laminate adhesives are copolyamides, copolyesters, polyester polyurethane, polyamides and polyurethane adhesives, for example reactive polyurethane adhesives, and also mixtures of polyester urethane and polyurethane.

For the outsole 15, customary outsole materials, such as for example leather, vulcanized and unvulcanized rubber and plastics, in particular polyurethanes, can be used. Both outsoles 15 molded onto the upper 13 and prefabricated outsoles 15 which are cemented onto the upper 13 are suitable.

When stitching together the shoe 11 shown in Figure 1, comprising upper laminate parts of the type shown in Figure 6, by means of the longitudinal seam 29 for example, the upper laminate functional layer 39 is perforated, as is shown in the schematic cross-sectional representation in Figure 7. Figure 2 shows in an oblique view from below the upper 13 of the shoe

11 shown in Figure 1 after it has been stitched together from the parts of the upper specifically mentioned in conjunction with Figure 1, which are preferably cut or punched from a laminate sheet. In this representation, the tongue 45 and the tongue seam 47 joining the tongue 45 to the vamp 24 can additionally be seen, as can a part of the joining seam 60 leading from the bottom part of the upper 17 in the direction of the top part of the upper 21.

With the exception of the tongue seam 47, which does not require any sealing because the shoe 11 is open in the tongue region anyway, all the seams 27, 29 and 60 should be sealed, for example by means of seam-sealing tape, in particular over the entire length, in order to ensure the waterproofness of the shoe 11 in spite of the seams. This would not only mean high expenditure in terms of material and work, but would also impair the aesthetic impression of the inner side of the shoe.

Therefore, according to the invention, the entire rear part of the upper 25, beginning approximately in the region of the tongue seam 47, is covered on the inner side with a lining laminate part 51. This brings us to a stage in production such as that which can be seen in the case of the upper 13 shown in an oblique view from below in Figure 3 and is shown in a schematized cross-sectional representation in Figure 8. Like the upper laminate 37 shown in Figure 6, the lining laminate part 51 has a lining laminate part functional layer 53, a lining laminate part outer material 55 on the outer side of said functional layer and a lining laminate part lining material layer 57 on the inner side of said functional layer. The same materials may in each case be the same materials as those also used for the upper laminate 37, with the previously specified particulars for materials and examples of materials also applying to the materials of the lining laminate part 51. In this case, the lining laminate part 51 may be cut or punched from the same laminate sheet from which the upper laminate 37 is also cut or punched. However, material different from that used for the upper laminate 37 may also be used for each of the three materials of the lining laminate part 51.

In the embodiment shown in Figure 3, a top lining laminate part edge 52 is stitched to the edge of the slipping-in opening 19 of the upper 13 by means of the peripheral seam 35. A bottom lining laminate part edge 54 is cut to approximately the same length as the end region of the upper material on the sole side. An obliquely upward running side edge region 58 of the lining laminate part 51 joins the lower lining laminate part edge 54 to a front region (which cannot be seen in Figure 3) of the lining laminate part 51, which extends up to the forward end region of the top part of the upper 21 , provided with the shoelace eyelets 31 , and is j oined to said part by means of a joining seam 60. The region of the lining laminate part 51 extending between the side edge region 58 and the joining seam 60 cannot be seen in the representation in Figure 3 because it is concealed by the tongue 45.

A comparison of Figures 2 and 3 shows that the side seams 27, the oblique seam 60 and the part of the peripheral longitudinal seam 29 located outside the vamp 24 are covered by the lining laminate part 51 and, as a result, are sealed by the lining laminate part 51.

Figures 2 to 4 show an upper 13 which is designed for a cement-lasted shoe, that is to say a shoe in which a bottom region of the upper 13 is turned back around a peripheral edge of an insole (not represented) and adhesively bonded to it before the outsole 15 is applied to the underside of the insole and the turned-in part of the upper 13. For the purpose of cement-lasting, the upper 13 is stretched over a last (not represented), the sole side of which bears the insole, to which the bottom region of the upper is then joined by means of cement-lasting. Before the cement-lasting takes place, preferably before the upper 13 is stretched over the last, a reinforcing or rear cap 59, which gives the finished shoe 11 adequate dimensional stability in the rear shoe region, is pushed between the rear part of the upper 25 and the lining laminate part 51. An example of a form of such a rear cap 59 is shown in Figure 5. In the case of the finished shoe 11, shown in Figure 1, a bottom cap edge 61 of the rear cap 59 reaches down to the top side of the outsole 15. A top cap edge 63 of the rear cap 59 has a contour which essentially coπesponds to the path followed by the longitudinal seam 29 of the finished shoe 11 in its rear shoe region.

The rear cap 59 may consist of one of the materials customary for shoe reinforcing caps. A suitable material is known by the trade name Lefa and consists of leather fiber scrap mixed with adhesive. Another suitable material is polyurethane with a textile carrier material.

In an embodiment of the invention having a rear cap 59, in which the lining laminate part 51 is adhesively bonded in flat contact to the rear part of the upper 25, this adhesive bonding takes place after the rear cap 59 has been inserted between the lining laminate part 51 and the rear part of the upper 25. For this full surface adhesive bonding, the same adhesive bonding methods and the same adhesives as have been mentioned before in conjunction with the lamination of the upper laminate 37 can be used. Figure 4 shows in an oblique view from below a stage in production of the upper 13 in which that part of the longitudinal seam 29 running around the vamp 24 (the vamp seam 30) and the side edge regions 58 of the lining laminate part 51 are covered with an adhesively attached seam-sealing tape 65, in order to seal the vamp seam 30 and the side edge regions 58 of the lining laminate part 51 in a waterproof manner. Depending on the path followed by the vamp seam 30 on the one hand and the side edge regions 58 on the other hand, the vamp seam 30 and the side edge regions 58 can be sealed with a seam-sealing tape 65 of a continuous single piece or with separate seam-sealing tapes 65, which overlap at the point at which they meet.

In comparison with an embodiment in which all the seams covered by the lining laminate part 51 must each be individually sealed with seam-sealing tape 65, relatively little seam-sealing tape 65 is needed in the case of the embodiment shown in Figure 4, with coπespondingly low costs for the seam-sealing tape 65 itself and for its handling, and with coπespondingly little impairment of the appearance of the inner shoe region of the finished shoe 11. Suitable in particular as the seam-sealing tape 65 is a waterproof adhesive tape which is obtainable under the trade name "GORE-SEAM (R) from W.L. Gore

Associates GmbH and is a strip-shaped two-ply laminate with a waterproof, water- vapor-permeable functional layer and a textile layer which is provided on the functional layer side with a continuous layer of adhesive in the form of crosslinked polyurethane adhesive, which has a melting point of approximately 130 °C. However, the continuous layer of polyurethane adhesive means that the water- vapor permeability of the seam-sealing tape is lost, for which reason it is important to develop methods of production for waterproof, breathable footwear in which as little seam-sealing tape as possible is needed. A seam-sealing tape 65 of this type is obtainable in various widths, a width of approximately 22 mm, and most particularly a width of 16 mm, being prefeπed for the present application.

In the embodiment of a shoe according to the invention shown in Figures 1 to 4, seams in the rear and middle regions of the shoe are covered by the lining laminate part 51. In the case of differently designed shoes, for example those which have a plurality of functional and/or decorative seams in the front shoe region, it may be advisable to cover and seal a front part of the shoe on the inside with a lining laminate part 51. Coπesponding considerations apply to shoes which have a plurality of functional and/or decorative seams in a side region.

While Figure 8 shows a cross-sectional representation of part of the upper 13 in the stage of production shown in Figure 3, before the rear cap 59 has been pushed in between the rear part of the upper 25 and the lining laminate part 51, Figure 9 shows a cross-sectional representation after the rear cap 59 has been pushed in. The cross-sectional representations shown in Figures 6 to 9 apply to footwear in which the region of the upper 13 covered and sealed with the lining laminate part 51 is constructed with an upper laminate 37 which has an upper laminate outer material 41, an upper laminate functional layer 39 and an upper laminate lining material layer 43. Figures 10 to 12 show embodiments in cross-sectional representation in which the region of the upper 13 covered by the lining laminate part 51 is constructed only with upper outer material 42, but is not provided with an upper laminate functional layer and an upper laminate lining material layer. The upper laminate functional layer and the upper laminate lining material layer are not required because the lining laminate part 51 is provided with the lining laminate part functional layer 53 and the lining laminate part lining material layer 57.

In the case of Figure 10, the region of the upper 13 covered by the lining laminate part 51 comprises parts of an upper outer material 42 joined to one another by means of a seam 29, while Figure 11 shows a cross-sectional representation in which the lining laminate part 51 covers a one-piece upper outer material 42. Figure 12 shows the variant according to Figure 11 after the fitting of a reinforcing cap 59 between a one-piece upper outer material 42 and a lining laminate part 51. In the embodiment shown in Fig. 4, a seam-sealing tape 65 is used for sealing the connection between the side edge regions 58 of the lining laminate part 51 and the upper laminate 37. In a further embodiment of the invention, the waterproof connection between the side edge regions 58 of the lining laminate part 51 and the upper laminate 37 is obtained by waterproof welding so as to form waterproof welded seams. To achieve such waterproof welded seams at least the lining laminate outer material 55 of the lining laminate part 51 comprises a textile structure which has at least a first component and a second component, preferably in the form of a composite fibre. The first component is made of a material which is stable up to a first temperature and the second component is made of a material which melts at a second temperature. The first temperature is higher than the second temperature. Such a lining laminate part 51 can be subjected to energy, e.g. by heating, to reach a temperature higher than the second temperature but lower than the first temperature. The second component melts and thus provides sealant material (adhesive) for joining the lining laminate part 51 to another substrate or a laminate. The first component remains stable and provides structure and strength to the seam.

Both the first component and the second component participate in the structural connection. The second component encapsulates the first component whilst the first component remains stable. The second component provides the waterproof baπier and the first component provides structure and strength to the seam. The seams formed from such lining laminate parts are sufficiently waterproof to withstand a water entry pressure of at least 0.07 bar and preferably at least 0.13 bar according to the Sutur test described above. Furthermore the seams are strong and flexible.

The second (low melting point) component of the lining laminate part outer material 55 is preferably meltable at a temperature in the range from 80°C to 170°C whilst the first (high melting point) component is stable to a temperature of at least 140°C. For a reliable seam to be formed the difference in temperature between the first temperature and the second temperature should be at least 20°C. The term melting point is used in the context of this application to describe the temperature above which the polymer flows sufficiently to form a seam.

The lining laminate part outer material layer 55 is a woven, non-woven or knitted textile layer made from strands, filaments, threads or fibres having at least two components. The first component is a material which is stable, i.e. does not melt or otherwise disintegrate, up to a high temperature, e.g. approximately 230°C. The second component is a material with a low melting temperature, e.g. approximately 110°C. The two components in the lining laminate part outer material layer 55 may be made up of two different types of strands, filaments, threads or fibres. In one embodiment a composite fibre comprises the first component and the second component. A composite fibre having two components is sometimes termed a fibre. Suitable structures for use in the invention include an eccentric-sheath-core configuration, a concentric sheath-core configuration, wherein the second component forms the cover, an "island-in-sea" configuration, a wedge-core configuration, a wedge configuration or a "side-by-side" configuration. In the prefeπed embodiment of the invention, the fibre used has a sheath-core configuration. More preferably, a yarn is used. The yarn may have either a core-sheath structure or a "side-by-side" structure. Most preferably, the yarn is formed from a blend of fibers or filaments.

According to one embodiment the second component is a thermoplastic which is selected from the group of thermoplastics comprising co-polyester, polyamide, co-polyamide or polyethylene. In the prefeπed embodiment of the invention the second component is a polyethylene.

At least the side edge regions 58 of the lining laminate part 51 are to be joined at a seam to the upper laminate 37 using a heat seal die.

The heat seal machine used was a Theller heat seal machine which is available from Theller Engineering in Petaluma, California, USA, or a heat seal machine available from Brugger Feinmechanik in Mϋnchen, Germany.

Alternatively ultrasonic welding can be used in order to form the seam. For example a Branson Ultrasonic Sealer available from Branson Ultrasonics Corporation of Danbury, Connecticut, USA, is used. In a further embodiment also the upper laminate lining material 43 comprises a bicomponent yarn as described above. In this embodiment a bicomponent upper laminate lining material layer 43 and bicomponent lining laminate part outer material layer 55 are sealed together.

. The temperature of the heat seal die is chosen to be higher than the melting temperature of the second low melting temperature component of the bicomponent upper laminate lining material layer 43 and of the lining laminate part outer material layer 55 but to be lower than the melting temperature of the first component of the bicomponent layers 43 and 55. Typically the heat seal die is at a temperature of between 130 °C and 215 °C. A pressure of 60 psi - 300 psi and a dwell time of between Is and 20s are used. Under these conditions, the low melting temperature components in the bicomponent layers 43 and 55 are melting and, due to the pressure exerted on at least the side edge regions 58 of the lining laminate part 51 and the upper laminate 37 by the heat seal die, the bicomponent layers 43 and 55 are fused together. The width of the thus formed seam is between 05mm and 1.3 cm. Even if a part of the upper which is covered and sealed by means of a lining laminate part 51 does not require any upper laminate functional layer 39 of its own or any upper laminate lining material layer 43 of its own, it may sometimes be advantageous for production engineering reasons to produce all the parts of the upper from the same upper laminate. It may also be advantageous to produce all the parts of the upper and the lining laminate part 51 from the same laminate material, as shown in the cross-sectional representations in Figures 6 to 9.

In particular in the case of shoes in which a reinforcing cap 59 is located between the part of the upper to be sealed and the lining laminate part 51 and this reinforcing cap consists of water-vapor-impermeable material, it may be adequate, in particular for the case in which the lining laminate part 51 covers essentially only the region of the upper 13 provided with the reinforcing cap 59, to use a lining laminate part functional layer 53 which is just waterproof without also being water-vapor-permeable.

Claims

Patent claims

1. Footwear with an upper (13) which has a top end of the upper and a bottom end of the upper and is constructed with an upper laminate (37) comprising an upper laminate outer material layer (41), an upper laminate lining material layer (43) and a waterproof upper laminate functional layer (39) located in between, and has a part of the upper, which is at least partially not waterproof and which is sealed by means of a lining laminate part (51) covering this part of the upper, the lining laminate part (51) having an inner lining laminate part lining material layer (57) and, on the outer side of the latter, a waterproof lining laminate part functional layer (53), wherein at least side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) that are located between the top end of the upper and the bottom end of the upper are joined to the upper laminate (37) in a waterproof manner.

2. Footwear as claimed in claim 1, wherein the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are joined to the upper laminate (37) in a waterproof manner by means of a seam-sealing tape (65).

3. Footwear as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the lining laminate part (51) is arranged loosely on the part of the upper, with the exception of a fixing at the edges.

4. Footwear as claimed in claim 3, wherein the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are fastened to the upper laminate (37) by means of the waterproof joining.

5. Footwear as claimed in one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the upper part is formed by a rear part of the upper (25) which is not waterproof and which is sealed with a lining laminate part (51).

6. Footwear as claimed in claim 5, of which the rear part of the upper (25) is constructed with an upper laminate (37) of which the waterproofness is impaired by stitching seams (27, 29, 60).

7. Footwear as claimed in claim 5, of which the rear part of the upper (25) is constructed with outer material (41) which is not waterproof.

8. Footwear as claimed in one of claims 1 to 4, with a reinforcing rear cap (59) aπanged between the rear part of the upper (25) and the lining laminate part (51).

9. Footwear as claimed in one of claims 1 to 8, of which the lining laminate part (51) extends up to the top part of the upper and is fastened there by means of at least one stitching seam (35).

10. Footwear as claimed in one of claims 1 to 9, with a cement-lasted bottom end of the upper, of which the lining laminate part (51) extends to the bottom end of the upper and is fastened there as part of the cement-lasting.

11. Footwear as claimed in one of claims 5 to 10, wherein an upper laminate part forming a vamp and tongue region (24, 45) of the footwear is stitched by means of a vamp seam (30) to a front part (23) of the upper laminate (37), the lining laminate part (51) covering the rear part of the upper (25) is designed such that it extends up to the vamp seam (30), and the vamp seam (30) and the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are sealed by means of pieces of seam-sealing tape (65) essentially continuing one after the other and roughly following the shape of a U.

12. Footwear as claimed in claim 11 , wherein the vamp seam (30) and the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are sealed by means of a continuous piece of seam-sealing tape (65).

13. Footwear as claimed in one of. claims 1 to 12, wherein the upper laminate functional layer (39) and/or the lining laminate part functional layer (53) is water- vapor-permeable.

14. A process for producing footwear, with the following process steps: production of an upper (13) having a top upper end and a bottom upper end at least partially from an upper laminate (37) with an upper laminate outer material layer (41), an upper laminate lining material layer (43) and a waterproof upper laminate functional layer (39) located in between, the upper (13) having a part of the upper which is not waterproof; sealing of this part of the upper by a lining laminate part (51) which covers it and has an inner lining laminate part lining material layer (57) and, on the outer side of the latter, a waterproof lining laminate part functional layer (53) and is aπanged on the part of the upper which is not waterproof; with at least side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) that are located between the top end of the upper and the bottom end of the upper being joined to the upper laminate (37) in a waterproof manner.

15. The process as claimed in claim 14, wherein the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are joined to the upper laminate (37) in a waterproof manner by means of a waterproof seam sealing tape (65).

16. The process as claimed in claim 14 or 15, wherein the lining laminate part

(51) is arranged loosely on the part of the upper with the exception of a fixing at the edges.

17. The process as claimed in claim 16, wherein the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are fastened to the upper laminate (37) by means of the seam-sealing tape (65).

18. The process as claimed in one of claims 14 to 17, wherein a lining laminate part (51) with a water-vapor-permeable lining laminate part functional layer (53) is used.

19. The process as claimed in one of claims 14 to 18, for producing footwear, wherein the part of the upper is formed by a rear part of the upper (25) which is not waterproof, with the rear part of the upper (25) being sealed with a lining laminate part (51).

20. The process as claimed in claim 19, wherein a reinforcing rear cap (59) is aπanged between the rear part of the upper (25) and the lining laminate part (51).

21. The process as claimed in one of claims 14 to 20, wherein the lining laminate part (51) is designed such that it extends up to the top end of the upper and is fastened there by means of at least one stitching seam (35).

22. The process as claimed in one of claims 14 to 21, wherein the bottom end of the upper is cement-lasted and the lining laminate part (51) is designed such that it extends up to the bottom end of the upper and is fastened there as part of the cement- lasting.

23. The process as claimed in one of claims 19 to 22, wherein an upper laminate part forming a vamp and tongue region (24, 45) of the footwear is stitched by means of a vamp seam (30) to a front part of the upper (23) of the upper laminate (37), the lining laminate part (51) covering the rear part of the upper (25) is designed such that it extends up to the vamp seam (30), and the vamp seam (30) and the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51 ) are sealed by means of pieces of seam- sealing tape (65) essentially continuing one after the other and roughly following the shape of a U.

24. The process as claimed in claim 23, wherein the vamp seam (30) and the side edge regions (58) of the lining laminate part (51) are sealed by means of a continuous piece of seam-sealing tape (65).

25. The process as claimed in one of claims 14 to 24, wherein a water-vapor- permeable functional layer is used for the upper laminate functional layer (39) and/or the lining laminate part functional layer (53).