WO2000038628A1

WO2000038628A1 - Hair set and style compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2000038628A1
Application number: PCT/EP1999/010167
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jitendra Patel; Arun Nandagiri
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever Nv; Hindustan Lever Limited
Priority date: 1998-12-23
Filing date: 1999-12-15
Publication date: 2000-07-06
Also published as: AU2100000A

Abstract

Hair styling compositions which are aqueous aerosol or non aerosol sprays and which comprise a resin made from at least the following four monomers: hydroxyethyl methacrylate, acrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, and dimethylamino ethyl methyl acrylate, are described.

Description

HAIR SET AND STYLE COMPOSITIONS

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention concerns processes and compositions for the treatment of human hair. More particularly the invention relates to hair styling compositions which are in the form of sprays, and which can be aerosol or non-aerosol sprays. The compositions of the invention are styling sprays, that is a shaping spray which has good styling performance, but does not add any stiffness when sprayed on the hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Most hair styling products in the U.S. market today fall under three major groupings: Hair Sprays which could be in aerosol or non-aerosol forms, hair mousses and hair styling gels. Hair sprays are mainly used to hold a style in place where as the mousses and gels are used to help style the hair. Hair styled with mousses and gels are usually treated with a finishing spray to hold the coiffure in place for an extended period of time. Mousses and gels are normally used by dispensing an adequate amount of product in the palm of the hand, which is then applied to the hair. This ensures that the hair is evenly coated, which is necessary to style hair. The major drawback of these type of products is that they are sticky and the user has to wash their hands before picking up any styling implement such as a curling iron or blow dryer. To avoid this stickiness, users of such products have turned to using conventional hair sprays, aerosol or non-aerosol to style and set their hair. Manufacturers of hair styling products are capitalising on this trend by labelling their conventional hair spray formulas as "Shaping Sprays" or "Styling Sprays" . An example of such a product sold in the professional salon trade is called "Sebastian Shaper" and is made by a company called Sebastian. Other products with similar positioning are also appearing in the retail trade as well. The resin technology used in such products is not different from that used in conventional hair sprays. While these products alleviate the problem of stickiness, the amount of product to be used to style the hair is about the same or more than that used to hold the hair in place. Since styled hair has to be sprayed with a finishing hair spray to hold the style in place, the total amount of resin deposited is high which can then result in hair being stiff and unnatural and in some extreme cases can result in flaking of the resin on the hair. Users try to adjust the amount used in styling by spraying a lower amount, but this results in inadequate styling. Lowering the amount used in the finishing step is also an unsatisfactory solution, since this compromises the longevity of the style retention. In addition to these problems, when finishing hair sprays are used as styling sprays, there is great difficulty in combing the hair because the sprays were designed to be used as a last step in the styling regimen and hair is not usually combed or brushed at this time. The combining problem can be addressed by including combing additives such as silicones or oils, but the addition of such ingredients to the formula compromises its ability to hold a set. There is a need in the market place for a true shaping spray that does not add any stiffness when sprayed on the hair, but has good to excellent styling ability.

It is important to distinguish the differences in attributes delivered by a good finishing hair spray and a styling spray. In a hair spray formulation, the users look for style retention in humid environment and is usually determined by the user by measuring the amount of stiffness the product provides. Although style retention can be obtained without stiffness, hair spray users reject such products since they lack the stiffness signal which gives them the reassurance that such products are going to work. The stiffness that a hairspray product provides should be such that it does not make the hair lock excessively stiff and unnatural. Style retention is measured in the laboratory by curling the hair, spraying it with the product and then measuring the curl loss in a humid chamber over time. It is not necessary for a finishing product to have good combing properties as well.

By contrast with the conventional hair finishing sprays, the prerequisites for a good styling product are that it should have the same ability to hold a set under high humid conditions, but without the associated stiffness. In addition, it should be easier to comb enabling it to be set, and the hair should be left soft to touch.

It is therefore an object of this invention to develop a hair styling composition, aerosol or non aerosol, that: a. has the same or better styling properties as conventional sprays but without the associated stiffness or crusty feel . b. has the same or better styling properties as conventional sprays but is easier to comb than conventional sprays. c. has the same or better styling properties as conventional sprays but is softer to touch. d. has the same or better styling properties as conventional sprays but can be sprayed with a conventional hair spray in a second step without increasing the overall stiffness of the hair.

These and other aspects of this invention will become evident by a detailed description of the invention given below.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to compositions and methods for styling hair which are in the form of sprays, which can be aerosol or non-aerosol. Also included, for example, are gels and mousses.

The compositions of the invention comprise a resin which is an amphoteric polymer containing at least four monomers in the following ranges:

hydroxyethyl methacrylate at about 40 to about 90% acrylic acid at about 1 to about 20%; methyl methacrylate at about 10 to about 30%; and dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate at about 1 to about 20%.

The molecular weight range of the polymer should be between about 50,000 to about 160,000. The concentration of the resin in the compositions of the invention should be about 7% or greater.

The invention also relates to a method for styling hair which comprises applying to said hair a composition of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, and unless otherwise specified, % means weight % .

All of the chemicals and materials mentioned herein are either known or can be prepared in accordance with known methods .

It has been found that the desired properties of a styling spray described above can be obtained by controlling the following factors:

a. Choice of resin used. This includes the number and type of monomers and the percentage of each monomer within the resin. c. Molecular weight of the resin. (number average molecular weight) . The molecular weight of the resin should be within a certain range to give the desired benefits without the associated disadvantages.

c. Concentration of the resin used should be within a certain range. d. Solvent type . Amount of water used as the solvent influences the particle size and the styleability of the polymer. Choice of Resin It is well known in the art that any hair styling or setting resin should have monomers that provide setting properties that can withstand normal high humid conditions while at the same time is easily removed by the shampooing process. The resin of choice in this invention is an amphoteric polymer containing at least four monomers . Desired ranges of each monomer in weight percent is as described below:

Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate about 40 to about 90% Acrylic Acid about 1 to about 20% Methyl Methacrylate about 10 to about 30% Dimethylamino Ethylmethacrylate about 1 to about 20%

These four monomers will total 100% in the resulting amphoteric polymer.

Resins which comprise monomers in the weight ranges set forth just above are described in PCT application WO 95/35087 published December 25, 1998, which is herein incorporated by reference. A difference between the disclosure of WO 95/35087 and the present invention, is that WO 95/35087 does not disclose resins wich the particular ranges of molecular weight (number average molecular weight) possessed by the resins in the compositions of the claimed invention and which impart the above mentioned desired hair composition properties which resins of the invention impart.

More preferred ranges of monomers in the resin are as follows :

Hydroxyethyl methacrylate at about 60% to about 80%; Acrylic acid at about 1% to 4%;

Methyl methacrylate at about 15% to about 25%; and Dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate about 10% to about 12%.

A most preferred range of monomers in a resin of the composition of the invention is as follows:

Hydroxyethyl methacrylate about 65% to about 70%; Acrylic acid about 2% to about 3%; Methyl methacrylate about 18% to about 22%; Dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate about 9% to about 11%

Monomer variations outside the ranges set forth above, diminished the performance of the polymer. For example, increasing the methyl methacrylate (MMA) level up to 50% or replacing it with different esters resulted in lower setting properties and replacing the MMA by styrene resulted in poor feel on the hair. Molecular Weight of the Resin:

The molecular weight of the polymer is an important characteristic as it controls the film and setting properties of the resin. It has been found that low molecular weights do not provide the required curl retention properties but the feel of the hair is good and as the molecular weights are increased, the curl retention falls within the acceptable range with minimum effect on hair feel. Further increases in molecular weights increases the set retention but the feel of the product is now adversely affected.

To achieve appropriate set retention the molecular weight of the polymer should be between about 50K to about 160K. More preferably, the molecular weight of the polymer should be between about 5OK to 12 OK. Most preferably the molecular weight of the polymer should be between about 6OK and about 100K.

Resin Concentration:

The concentration of the resin in all forms of the hair styling compositions of the invention should be between about 3% to about 10%, most preferably between about 4% to about 7%. The higher the concentration the more stiffness is imparted to the hair. SHAPING THE HAIR

Shaping of the hair can be done by steps analogous to those known in the art. Shaping of the hair is best accomplished by first applying the composition to hair while wet, allowing the hair to dry, and then optionally physically shaping the hair with a hot styling aid.

The compositions of the invention can generally be prepared as by means known in the art. The compositions of the invention can be prepared from known starting materials by methods known in the art. Specific examples of compositions of the invention have listed as an ingredient "PPG resin" which can be obtained from PPG Industries, Inc. of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Specific examples of compositions of the invention are as follows:

EXAMPLE 1

Aerosol:

Aerosol: 65% of Part A+ 35% DME Aerosol: 65% Part A+ 35% DME

EXAMPLE 2

Non Aerosol :

EXAMPLE 3

Mousse:

Mousse: 92% Part A + 8.0% Propellant blend (70% Hydroflurocarbon 152A: 30% A-17)

EXAMPLE 4

Gel

The propellant gas included in the aerosol forms of the compositions of the present invention can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers. Examples of materials that are suitable for use as propellants are trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, dichlorotetrafluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, trichlorotrifluoroethane, dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane and isobutane, used singly or admixed. Water soluble gases such as dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, and/or nitrous oxide also can be used to obtain aerosols having reduced flammability.

Water immiscible, liquefied, hydrocarbon and halogenated hydrocarbon gases such as propane, butane and chlorofluoro carbons can be used advantageously to deliver the contents of the aerosol container without the dramatic pressure drops associated with other immiscible gases. Here there is no concern for the head space to be left inside the aerosol container, because the liquefied gas will sit on top of the aqueous formulation and the pressure inside the container is always the vapor pressure of saturated hydrocarbon vapour.

Other insoluble, compressed gases such as nitrogen, helium and fully fluorinated oxetanes and oxepanes also are useful to deliver the compositions from aerosol containers. Other means of delivery of the above described aqueous styling aid compositions include, pump sprayers, all forms of bag-in-can devices, in situ carbon dioxide (C0₂) generator systems, compressors, and the like. The amount of propellant gas is governed by normal factors well known in the aerosol art. For mousses, the level of propellant is generally from about 3% to about 30%, preferably from about 5% to about 15% of the total composition. If a propellant such as dimethyl ether utilises a vapour pressure suppressant (e.g., trichlorethane or dichloromethane) , for weight percentage calculations, the amount of suppressant is included as part of the propellant.

Other common cosmetic additives can be incorporated with the essential ingredients of the present invention, as long as the basic properties of the hair setting composition are not adversely affected. These additives include, but are not limited to, commonly used fragrances, dyes, opacifiers, pearlescing agents, foam stabilizers, preservatives, water softening agents, acids, bases, sequestering agents, buffers and the like; and will usually be present in weight percentages of less than about 1% each, and about 2% to about 5% in total. The composition vehicle, or carrier, is predominantly water but organic solvents also can be added to the composition in order to solubilize compounds that are not sufficiently soluble in water.

The gel compositions of the invention can be thickened, for example, with sodium alginate, gum arabic, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and carboxylmethyl cellulose, and various polymeric thickeners, such as acrylic acid derivatives. It is also possible to use inorganic thickeners such as bentonite . These thickeners are preferably present in the amount from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and, in particular, from about 0.5% to about3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The optional alcohol employed in the composition is an aliphatic straight or branched chain monohydric alcohol having 2 to about 4 carbon atoms. Isopropanol and especially ethanol are preferred. The concentration of the alcohol in the composition should be less than about 20% by weight, and surprisingly can be as low as 0%, preferably 0% to about 10% by weight and more preferably about 5% to about 10% by weight. Some alcohol, in an amount of about 2% to about 10% by weight provides faster drying of the styling aid after application to the hair.

Compositions of the invention were tested using tests that are conventional in the industry as described just below.

Using a conventional set retention test, which tests for curl retention in high humidity, it has been determined that compositions of the invention have the same or better styling properties than conventional finishing sprays but without the associated stiffness or crusty feel.

Using a conventional combine test, where hair tresses are combed after the product is applied, it has been determined (for the same compositions as were tested in the paragraph just above) that these compositions of the invention leave hair easier to comb than conventional sprays,

Using a conventional subjective hair feel test, it has been determined (for the same compositions as were tested in the paragraph just above) that these compositions of the invention leave hair softer to touch than conventional sprays .

Using a curl compression test which measures the stiffness of a curl, it has been determined (for the same compositions as were tested in the paragraph just above) that these compositions of the invention can be sprayed with a conventional hair spray in a second step without increasing the overall stiffness of the hair.

Claims

CLAIMSWhat is claimed is:

1. A hair care composition comprising a resin that comprises the following monomers: about 40% to about 90% hydroxyethyl methacrylate; about 1% to about 20% acrylic acid; about 10% to about 30% methyl methacrylate; and about 1% to about 20% dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate;

and wherein said resin is present in said hair care composition at 3% or more; and wherein said resin has a molecular weight ranging from about 50,000 to about 160,000.

2. A composition according to claim 1 which is a hairspray .

3. A composition according to claim 2, which is an aerosol .

4. A composition according to claim 2, which is a non- aerosol .

5. A composition according to claim 1, which is a gel.

6. A composition according to claim 1, which is a mousse.

7. A hair care composition according to claim 1, wherein said resin comprises the following monomers: about 60% to about 80% hydroxyethyl methacrylate; about 1% to about 4% acrylic acid; about 15% to about 25% methyl methacrylate; and about 10% to about 12% dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate;

8. A composition according to claim 1 wherein the resin comprises the following monomers;

about 65 to about 70% hydroxyethyl methacrylate; about 2% to about 3% acrylic acid; about 18% to about 22% methyl methacrylate; and about 9% to about 11% dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate;

9. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the resin has a molecular weight ranging from about 50,000 to 120,000.

10. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the resin has a molecular weight ranging from about 60,000 to 100,000.

11. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said resin is present in a concentration of about 3% to about 10%.

12. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said resin is present in a concentration of about 4% to about 7%.

13. A composition according to claim 1, which further comprises a lower alkanol .

14. A method for styling hair which comprises applying to said hair a composition according to claim 1.

5. An aqueous composition according to claim 1