WO1999059530A1 - Composition de traitement pour cheveux renfermant des particules de polymere macroporeux, fortement reticule - Google Patents

Composition de traitement pour cheveux renfermant des particules de polymere macroporeux, fortement reticule Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999059530A1
WO1999059530A1 PCT/EP1999/003230 EP9903230W WO9959530A1 WO 1999059530 A1 WO1999059530 A1 WO 1999059530A1 EP 9903230 W EP9903230 W EP 9903230W WO 9959530 A1 WO9959530 A1 WO 9959530A1
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Prior art keywords
hair
hair treatment
silicone
treatment composition
macroporous
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PCT/EP1999/003230
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English (en)
Inventor
Gerardo Bertolosso
Maria Mavropoulou
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Unilever Plc
Unilever N.V.
Hindustan Lever Limited
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Application filed by Unilever Plc, Unilever N.V., Hindustan Lever Limited filed Critical Unilever Plc
Priority to AU40402/99A priority Critical patent/AU4040299A/en
Priority to BR9910556-0A priority patent/BR9910556A/pt
Publication of WO1999059530A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999059530A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/654—The particulate/core comprising macromolecular material

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a hair treatment composition.
  • the invention relates to a hair treatment composition containing a particular type of porous copolymer, which composition is useful for the regulation of hair surface sensory feel.
  • Sebum is produced in the sebaceous glands and is then excreted onto the scalp near the roots and tends to spread over the hair. An excess of sebum causes the hair to feel greasy. Conversely a deficiency of sebum causes the hair to feel dry. A particular problem with hair is that it can often appear greasy at the roots and dry at the ends. Frequent washing and aggressive chemical treatments such as harsh perming processes can exacerbate this condition.
  • compositions can be formulated which are particularly suitable for hair which appears or feels greasy at the roots and dry and/or brittle at the ends, by utilising particles of a macroporous, highly cross-linked copolymer as an ingredient in such compositions .
  • the present invention provides a hair treatment composition
  • a hair treatment composition comprising particles of a macroporous, highly cross-linked copolymer in which the macroporous, highly cross-linked copolymer is present in the hair treatment composition of the invention as a combination of non-pre-loaded copolymer powder and copolymer powder which is pre-loaded with a benefit agent selected from emollients and moisturisers.
  • Macroporous, highly cross-linked copolymers useful for incorporation into the hair treatment compositions of the present invention are known in the patent literature.
  • the material useful in the invention can be generally described as a highly cross-linked copolymer capable of entrapping active ingredients which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas.
  • the copolymer is in particulate form and constitutes free-flowing, discrete solid particles even when loaded with active ingredient. When loaded, the copolymer may contain a predetermined quantity of the active ingredient .
  • one monomer of the copolymer is a monounsaturated monomer such as lauryl methacrylate or styrene
  • the other monomer of the copolymer is a polyunsaturated monomer such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or divinylbenzene
  • the copolymer can also be formed using only polyunsaturated monomers.
  • the copolymer is in the form of a powder and the powder is a combined system of unit particles.
  • a particularly suitable material for use in the invention has the structural formula (I) :
  • the copolymer is a highly crosslinked copolymer, as shown by the above structural formula, and is more particularly a highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymer. It is a low density, highly porous, free-flowing white particulate, and the particles are capable of adsorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids, while at the same time maintaining a free-flowing particulate character.
  • materials of the POLYTRAP® series consist of unit particles less than one micron in diameter.
  • the unit particles are fused into amorphous open agglomerates of twenty to eighty microns in diameter. These agglomerates are loosely clustered electrostatically into macro-particles termed "aggregates" of about 200 to about 1200 microns in diameter.
  • Materials of the MICROSPONGE® series have a different structural morphology in the powder form and consist of discrete open particles which are generally spherical in shape, of diameter approximately 10 to 40, e.g. about 25 microns, which are composed of clusters of submicron spheres within a porous membrane.
  • Suitable copolymers for use in compositions of the invention include POLYTRAP® 6603 Polymer Powder, and MICROSPONGE® Skin Oil Adsorber 5640 Powder, both commercially available from Advanced Polymer Systems, Inc.
  • Macroporous, highly cross- linked copolymers e.g. of the
  • POLYTRAP® and MICROSPONGE® series as described above, are also available pre-loaded with a benefit agent such as an emollient or moisturiser.
  • emollients and moisturisers include silicone oils, glycerine, mineral oil, organic esters, glycols and glutamates .
  • Suitable pre-loaded copolymers for use in compositions of the invention include POLYTRAP® 6035 Polymer Powder (containing cyclomethicone) , MICROSPONGE® Vitamin A Palmitate 5650 Powder, MICROSPONGE® Mineral Oil 5645 Powder and MICROSPONGE® Glycerine 5647 Powder, all commercially available from Advanced Polymer Systems, Inc.
  • the macroporous, highly cross-linked copolymer as described above is present in the hair treatment composition of the invention as a combination of non-pre-loaded copolymer powder and copolymer powder which is pre-loaded with a benefit agent such as an emollient or moisturiser (e.g. glycerine) .
  • a benefit agent such as an emollient or moisturiser (e.g. glycerine) .
  • the composition so obtained is particularly suitable for the treatment of "mixed" hair, i.e. hair which feels greasy at the roots, but dry and/or brittle at the ends .
  • the total amount of macroporous, highly cross-linked copolymer in hair treatment compositions of the invention may suitably range from 0.001 to 5%, preferably 0.005 to 2%, ideally 0.01 to 1%, by weight copolymer based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably take the form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses or lotions.
  • Preferred hair treatment composition forms are shampoos and conditioners.
  • a particularly preferred hair treatment composition in accordance with the invention is a shampoo composition.
  • Such a shampoo composition will comprise one or more cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Further surfactants may be present as an additional ingredient if sufficient for cleansing purposes is not provided as emulsifying agent for oily or hydrophobic components (such as silicones) which may typically be present in the shampoo.
  • shampoo compositions of the invention comprise at least one further surfactant (in addition to that used as emulsifying agent) to provide a cleansing benefit .
  • Suitable cleansing surfactants which may be used singularly or in combination, are selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cleansing surfactant may be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or may be different.
  • anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N- alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts.
  • the alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated.
  • the alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.
  • Typical anionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.
  • anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate, triethanolamine onolauryl phosphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate 1 EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO.
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines (sultaines) , alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms.
  • Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate .
  • the shampoo composition can also include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.
  • co-surfactants to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.
  • a preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount ranging from
  • nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic (Cg - C_ Q ) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.
  • Nonionics include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides .
  • Examples include coco mono- or di- ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide .
  • nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs) .
  • the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups.
  • Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:
  • R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.
  • R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C 5 to about C 2 o-
  • R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C 8 to about C 12 .
  • the value of R lies between about 9.5 and about 10.5.
  • G may be selected from C 5 or Cg monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside.
  • G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.
  • G is glucose.
  • the degree of polymerisation, n may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more.
  • the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.1 to about 2.
  • the value of n lies in the range of from about 1.3 to about 1.5.
  • Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: Oramix NS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel .
  • the total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant , and/or any emulsifying agent) in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30%, more preferably from 10% to 25% by weight of the total shampoo composition.
  • a cationic polymer is a preferred ingredient in shampoo compositions of the invention, for enhancing conditioning performance of the shampoo.
  • a polymer enhances deposition of conditioning components such as silicone from the shampoo composition onto the intended site during use, i.e. the hair and/or the scalp.
  • the cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or be formed from two or more types of monomers.
  • the molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000, typically at least 10 000 and preferably in the range 100 000 to about 2 000 000.
  • the polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups, or a mixture thereof.
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as a substituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain spacer non-cationic monomer units.
  • Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic
  • the ratio of the cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymer having a cationic charge density in the required range.
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamides, alkyl (meth) acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine.
  • the alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably Cl-3 alkyl groups.
  • Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol .
  • the cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred.
  • Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.
  • the cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium- substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example:
  • copolymers of 1 -vinyl -2 -pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl -3- methyl-imidazolium salt e.g. chloride salt
  • CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
  • This material is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC 370) ;
  • cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;
  • cationic polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include those of the formula:
  • A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual .
  • R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene
  • R , R and R independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms .
  • R is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion.
  • Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
  • CTFA trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.
  • Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. as described in U.S. Patent 3, 958, 581) .
  • a particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series) .
  • Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity.
  • JAGUAR C15 having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity
  • JAGUAR C17 high degree of substitution, high viscosity
  • JAGUAR C16 which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups
  • JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of substitution.
  • the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose and cationic guar derivatives.
  • Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may also be formulated as conditioners for the treatment of hair (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.
  • Such a conditioner will comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.
  • Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include quaternary ammonium hydroxides or salts thereof, e.g. chlorides .
  • Suitable cationic surfactants for use in hair conditioners of the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride , decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride , stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride , didodecyldimethylammonium chloride , dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, and the corresponding hydroxides thereof.
  • cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5 , Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable.
  • a particularly useful cationic surfactant for use in hair conditioners of the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as DEHYQUART, ex Henkel .
  • the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 5%, most preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight of the composition.
  • Conditioners of the invention advantageously incorporate a fatty alcohol material .
  • the combined use of fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
  • Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20.
  • suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention.
  • the level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention is conveniently from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is suitably from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, optimally from 1:1 to 1:4.
  • Silicone is a particularly preferred ingredient in hair treatment compositions of the invention.
  • hair shampoos and conditioners of the invention will preferably also comprise emulsified particles of silicone, for enhancing conditioning performance.
  • the silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and so is present in an emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed particles.
  • Suitable silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone. Also suitable for use compositions of the invention (particularly shampoos and conditioners) are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol . Also suitable for use in compositions of the invention are silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. These materials can impart body, volume and stylability to hair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning.
  • the viscosity of the emulsified silicone itself (not the emulsion or the final hair conditioning composition) is typically at least 10,000 cst. In general we have found that conditioning performance increases with increased viscosity. Accordingly, the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, ideally at least 1,000,000 cst.
  • the viscosity does not exceed 10 cst for ease of formulation.
  • Emulsified silicones for use in hair shampoos and conditioners of the invention will typically have an average silicone particle size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 microns. We have found that reducing the particle size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average silicone particle size of the emulsified silicone in the composition is less than 2 microns, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone particle size of ⁇ 0.15 microns are generally termed microemulsions .
  • Particle size may be measured by means of a laser light scattering technique, using a 2600D Particle Sizer from Malvern Instruments.
  • Suitable silicone emulsions for use in the invention are also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.
  • Suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2- 1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol .
  • Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation.
  • a preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2- 1787, which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.
  • a further preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.
  • a further preferred class of silicones for inclusion in shampoos and conditioners of the invention are amino functional silicones.
  • amino functional silicone is meant a silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group, or a quaternary ammonium group.
  • Suitable amino functional silicones include:
  • x and y are numbers depending on the molecular weight of the polymer, generally such that the molecular weight is between about 5,000 and 500,000.
  • G is selected from H, phenyl, OH or C ⁇ _s alkyl, e.g. methyl; a is 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , preferably 0 ; b is 0 or 1, preferably 1 ; m and n are numbers such that (m + n) can range from 1 to
  • R ' is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH 2 qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an aminofunctional group selected from the following:
  • R" is selected from H, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, e.g. C]__ 2 o alkyl, and
  • A is a halide ion, e.g. chloride or bromide.
  • Suitable amino functional silicones corresponding to the above formula include those polysiloxanes termed “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” as depicted below, and which are sufficiently water insoluble so as to be useful in compositions of the invention:
  • x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the number x + y is in the range of from about 100 to about 300.
  • R and R may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, saturated or unsaturated long or short chain alk(en)yl, branched chain alk(en)yl and C 5 -C £ cyclic ring systems;
  • R 2 thru' R9 may be the same or different and may be independently selected from H, straight or branched chain lower alk(en)yl, and C 5 -C 8 cyclic ring systems;
  • n is a number within the range of about 60 to about 120, preferably about 80, and
  • X " is preferably acetate, but may instead be for example halide, organic carboxylate, organic sulphonate or the like, Suitable quaternary silicone polymers of this class are described in EP-A-0 530 974.
  • Amino functional silicones suitable for use in shampoos and conditioners of the invention will typically have a mole % amine functionality in the range of from about 0.1 to about 8.0 mole %, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5.0 mole %, most preferably from about 0.1 to about 2.0 mole %.
  • the amine concentration should not exceed about 8.0 mole % since we have found that too high an amine concentration can be detrimental to total silicone deposition and therefore conditioning performance.
  • the viscosity of the amino functional silicone is not particularly critical and can suitably range from about 100 to about 500,000 cst.
  • amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention are the aminosilicone oils DC2-8220, DC2-8166, DC2-8466, and DC2-8950-114 (all ex Dow Corning), and GE 1149-75, (ex General Electric Silicones) .
  • emulsions of amino functional silicone oils with non ionic and/or cationic surfactant are also suitable.
  • Such pre- formed emulsions will have an average amino functional silicone particle size in the shampoo composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 microns. Again, we have found that reducing the particle size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average amino functional silicone particle size in the composition is less than 2 microns, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 micron. Silicone emulsions having an average silicone particle size of ⁇ 0.15 microns are generally termed microemulsions.
  • Pre-formed emulsions of amino functional silicone are also available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning and General Electric. Specific examples include DC929 Cationic Emulsion, DC939 Cationic Emulsion, and the non-ionic emulsions DC2-7224, DC2-8467, DC2-8177 and DC2- 8154 (all ex Dow Corning) .
  • An example of a quaternary silicone polymer useful in the present invention is the material K3474, ex Goldschmidt .
  • compositions according to the invention intended for the treatment of "mixed" hair (i.e. greasy roots and dry ends)
  • the weight ratio of amino functional silicone to non-amino functional silicone will typically range from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably 1:3 to 1:20, more preferably 1:3 to 1:8.
  • the total amount of silicone incorporated into compositions of the invention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition although these limits are not absolute.
  • the lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and the upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and/or skin unacceptably greasy.
  • a total amount of silicone of from 0.3 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 3%, by weight of the total composition is a suitable level.
  • compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normally used in hair treatment formulations.
  • these other ingredients may include viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colouring agents, polyols such as glycerine and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate, fragrances, antimicrobials and sunscreens.
  • chelating agents such as EDTA
  • antioxidants such as vitamin E acetate
  • fragrances such as fragrances, antimicrobials and sunscreens.
  • compositions of this invention also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care.
  • adjuvants suitable for hair care Generally such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, by weight of the total composition.
  • Suitable hair care adjuvants are:
  • natural hair root nutrients such as amino acids and sugars.
  • suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof.
  • the amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di- and tripeptides.
  • the amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate.
  • Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e.g. fruit extracts.
  • a particularly preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose.
  • a particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine.
  • Ceramides for moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity.
  • Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides .
  • a preferred ceramide is Ceramide II, ex Quest.
  • Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss .
  • Examples are branched chain fatty acids such as 18- methyleicosanoic acid and other homologues of this series, straight chain fatty acids such as stearic, myristic and palmitic acids, and unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • a preferred fatty acid is oleic acid.
  • the fatty acids may be added singly, as mixtures, or in the form of blends derived from extracts of, e.g. lanolin.
  • a shampoo composition was prepared by mixing the following components in the amounts stated.
  • a hair conditioning composition was prepared by mixing the following components in the amounts stated.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition de traitement pour cheveux renfermant des particules de copolymère macroporeux, fortement réticulé. Cette composition contient le copolymère précité sous forme de combinaison d'une poudre copolymère qui n'est pas préchargée et d'une poudre copolymère qui est préchargée avec un agent bénéfique sélectionné parmi les émollients et les hydratants. La composition est normalement formulée comme un shampooing ou un après-shampooing et est utile pour réguler la texture du cheveu, en particulier pour traiter les racines grasses et les pointes sèches (cheveux 'mixtes').
PCT/EP1999/003230 1998-05-20 1999-05-04 Composition de traitement pour cheveux renfermant des particules de polymere macroporeux, fortement reticule WO1999059530A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU40402/99A AU4040299A (en) 1998-05-20 1999-05-04 Hair treatment composition containing particles of macroporous, highly cross-linked polymer
BR9910556-0A BR9910556A (pt) 1998-05-20 1999-05-04 Composição para tratamento de cabelos, e, uso da mesma

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB9810856A GB9810856D0 (en) 1998-05-20 1998-05-20 Hair treatment composition
GB9810856.6 1998-05-20

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WO1999059530A1 true WO1999059530A1 (fr) 1999-11-25

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2006000257A1 (fr) * 2004-06-25 2006-01-05 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Produits de lavage des cheveux contenant des silicones aminofonctionnels
FR2874824A1 (fr) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-10 Oreal Composition de coiffage comprenant l'association d'un materiau polymerique hydrophile de haute porosite et polymere fixant
US8435501B2 (en) 2004-01-16 2013-05-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Conditioning shampoo compositions
WO2015059169A1 (fr) * 2013-10-22 2015-04-30 Unilever Plc Composition

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5208038A (en) * 1989-12-08 1993-05-04 Dow Corning Corporation Coacervated highly absorptive polymers
EP0627216A2 (fr) * 1993-05-17 1994-12-07 Helene Curtis, Inc. Shampooing de conditionnement stable contenant une tensioactive anionique, un alcool gras, un conditionneur silicone et polyethyleneimine
US5409695A (en) * 1994-02-22 1995-04-25 Dow Corning Corporation Method of increasing deposition of silicone conditioner to hair
EP0678294A2 (fr) * 1994-04-18 1995-10-25 GOLDWELL GmbH Agent et procédé de nettoyage des cheveux humains et utilisation d'agent à cet effet

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5208038A (en) * 1989-12-08 1993-05-04 Dow Corning Corporation Coacervated highly absorptive polymers
EP0627216A2 (fr) * 1993-05-17 1994-12-07 Helene Curtis, Inc. Shampooing de conditionnement stable contenant une tensioactive anionique, un alcool gras, un conditionneur silicone et polyethyleneimine
US5409695A (en) * 1994-02-22 1995-04-25 Dow Corning Corporation Method of increasing deposition of silicone conditioner to hair
EP0678294A2 (fr) * 1994-04-18 1995-10-25 GOLDWELL GmbH Agent et procédé de nettoyage des cheveux humains et utilisation d'agent à cet effet

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8435501B2 (en) 2004-01-16 2013-05-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Conditioning shampoo compositions
WO2006000257A1 (fr) * 2004-06-25 2006-01-05 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Produits de lavage des cheveux contenant des silicones aminofonctionnels
FR2874824A1 (fr) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-10 Oreal Composition de coiffage comprenant l'association d'un materiau polymerique hydrophile de haute porosite et polymere fixant
EP1634580A1 (fr) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-15 L'oreal Composition de coiffage comprenant l'association d'un materiau polymerique hydrophile de haute porosite et d'un polymere fixant
WO2015059169A1 (fr) * 2013-10-22 2015-04-30 Unilever Plc Composition
CN105705203A (zh) * 2013-10-22 2016-06-22 荷兰联合利华有限公司 组合物
JP2016540735A (ja) * 2013-10-22 2016-12-28 ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ 組成物
US9889075B2 (en) 2013-10-22 2018-02-13 Conopco, Inc. Dry shampoo composition

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AR018360A1 (es) 2001-11-14
BR9910556A (pt) 2001-01-30
GB9810856D0 (en) 1998-07-22
AU4040299A (en) 1999-12-06

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