WO1998042303A1 - Cosmetic product - Google Patents
Cosmetic product Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO1998042303A1 WO1998042303A1 PCT/EP1998/001423 EP9801423W WO9842303A1 WO 1998042303 A1 WO1998042303 A1 WO 1998042303A1 EP 9801423 W EP9801423 W EP 9801423W WO 9842303 A1 WO9842303 A1 WO 9842303A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- composition
- product according
- polymer
- skin
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K9/70—Web, sheet or filament bases ; Films; Fibres of the matrix type containing drug
- A61K9/7023—Transdermal patches and similar drug-containing composite devices, e.g. cataplasms
Definitions
- the invention concerns a cosmetic product applied to the skin for removing keratotic plugs from pores and concurrent delivery of skin benefit agents.
- ascorbic acid also known by its common name of Vitamin C
- Vitamin C is a very unstable substance. Although readily soluble in water, rapid oxidation occurs in aqueous media. Solubility of ascorbic acid has been reported to be relatively poor in nonaqueous media, thereby preventing an anhydrous system from achieving a significant level of active concentration. Derivatives have been produced with greater stability than the parent component. See U.S. Patent 5,137,723 (Yamamoto et al . ) and U.S. Patent 5,078,989 (Ando et al.).
- Vitamin C powder and other ingredients are separately packaged in different containers with mixing just prior to use.
- U.S. Patent 4,818,521 Tea abuchi
- Water compatible alcohols such as propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and glycerol have been used as co- carriers alongside water to improve stability.
- U.S. Patent 4,983,382 Wang and Znaiden
- Vitamin C is just one example of difficult to formulate cosmetic ingredients. Many other types of vitamins, herbal extracts and alpha- or beta- hydroxycarboxylic acids have one or more properties which render them sensitive to certain types of delivery vehicles.
- cleansing pore strips have entered commerce in a number of countries.
- Products such as Kao Biore® and Pond's® Cleansing Pore Strips are sheets of an adhesive coated flexible band-aid shaped strip which when wetted have sufficient adhesivity to remove keratotic plugs from skin pores. The strips are left on the skin for approximately 15-30 minutes to allow adhesive polymer to penetrate the pores. Removal of the strip rips away the plugs as well as a layer of skin. These products do not contain any skin benefit agents. In fact, the whole concept behind the strips is removal rather than deposition.
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a delivery system for vitamins, herbal extracts and hydroxycarboxylic acids which does not interfere or degrade the active during storage.
- a cosmetic product for delivery of skin actives which includes :
- Actives covered by the present invention are vitamins, herbal extracts, alpha- and beta- C j -C j . hydroxycarboxylic acids, ceramides, anti-inflammatories, anti-microbials, vasoconstrictors, zinc salts and mixtures thereof.
- Vitamins covered by the present invention include Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin C, Vitamin E and combinations thereof. Most preferred is Vitamin C which not only is defined as including ascorbic acid but also salts and esters thereof such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, L- ascorbyl stearate, dehydroascorbic acid, Vitazyme C and combinations thereof. Adhesive carriers of the present invention are particularly useful for Vitamin C delivery because it is very unstable in the presence of water yet relatively poorly soluble in non-aqueous media. These problems are overcome in the present carrier system where during manufacture Vitamin C contacts an aqueous media for only a short period of time to allow transfer onto a flexible substrate. Almost all the water is removed immediately thereafter.
- Vitamin A for purposes of this invention include retinol, retinoic acid as well as retinyl C 2 -C 22 fatty acid esters. Most preferred among the esters are retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate.
- Vitamin E may be provided in the form of tocotrienols, ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol, ⁇ -tocopherol and ⁇ - tocopherol. Included within the Vitamin E group are tocopheryl C 2 -C 22 fatty acid esters including tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol linoleate and tocopheryl palmitate.
- Vitamin B may be present in the form of thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, biotin, cobalamin, pyridoxine hydrochloric, pyridoxamine dihydrochloride, pyridoxal, pyridoxal phosphate, folic acid, inositol and mixtures as well as complexes thereof.
- Vitamin may also be included thaproline, L-caritine, nicotinic acid, nicotinamide and cyproterone acetate.
- Herbal extracts particularly suitable for the present invention are antioxidants or free-radical inhibitors. Examples of these extracts include:
- Herbal extracts particularly effective for sebum/oil control include dill, horseradish, oats, neem, beet, broccoli, tea, pumpkin, soybean, barley, walnut, flax, ginseng, poppy, avocado, pea, sesame, dandelion, wheat, nettle, cashew, pineapple, apple, asparagus, Brazilnut, chickpea, grapefruit, orange, cucumber, buckwheat, strawberry, ginko, tomato, blueberry, cowpea and grape extracts.
- herbal extracts also suitable are those of ivy horse chestnut, centella asiatica, rosmarinic acid, glycyrrizinate derivatives, alpha bisabolol, azulene and derivatives thereof, asiaticoside, sericoside, ruscogenin, escin, escolin, betulinic acid and derivatives thereof, catechin and derivatives thereof.
- Alpha- and beta- hydroxycarboxylic acids ranging from C 2 -C 30 are also suitably delivered by the adhesive strips of the present invention.
- the beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids are primarily exemplified by salicylic acid and C ⁇ C ⁇ ester and salt derivatives.
- suitable alpha- hydroxycarboxylic acids include but are not limited to:
- alpha hydroxy acetic acid (glycolic acid) alpha hydroxybenzeneacetic acid (mandelic acid) alpha hydroxypropionic acid (lactic acid) alpha hydroxybutanoic acid alpha hydroxyhexanoic acid alpha hydroxyoctanoic acid (alpha hydroxycaprylic acid) alpha hydroxynonanoic acid alpha hydroxydecanoic acid alpha hydroxyundecanoic acid alpha hydroxydodecanoic acid (alpha hydroxylauric acid) alpha hydroxytetradecanoic acid alpha hydrocyhexadecanoic acid alpha hydroxyoctadecanoic acid alpha hydroxyoctaeicosanoic acid; dicarboxylic alpha hydroxy acids; dihydroxybutanedioic acid (tartaric acid) 2-hydroxybutanedioic acid (malic acid)
- Tricarboxylic alpha hydroxy acid Tricarboxylic alpha hydroxy acid
- esters and salts of alpha- and beta- hydroxycarboxylic acids are also meant to be included within the term "alpha- and beta- hydroxycarboxylic acid” .
- alpha- and beta- hydroxycarboxylic acid e.g. potassium , sodium, ammonium, triethanolammonium salts
- a mixture of the salt and the acid may be present.
- the preferred alpha hydroxycarboxylic acids are monocarboxylic acids, in order to improve skin penetration and efficacy.
- the hydroxy acid is chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, and mixtures thereof to optimize the efficacy of compositions by increasing percutaneous absorption.
- Most preferred is the L-form of an alpha hydroxycarboxylic acid.
- Ceramides useful for the present invention are sphingolipids or phytosphingolipids including Ceramide 1, Ceramide 3 and Ceramide 6.
- Anti-inflammatories of the present invention are illustrated by corticoids such as beta-methasone 17-acetate, indomethacin, ketoprofen, flufenamic acid, ibuprofen, diclofenace, diflunisal, fenclofenac, naproxen, piroxidam and sulindac.
- corticoids such as beta-methasone 17-acetate, indomethacin, ketoprofen, flufenamic acid, ibuprofen, diclofenace, diflunisal, fenclofenac, naproxen, piroxidam and sulindac.
- Antimicrobials illustrative of the present invention include, chlorohexidine, hexetidine, 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide, (tricarbanilide) 2 , 4, 4 ' -tricloro-2- hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan) , cetyl pyridinium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, C 2 -C 20 organoperoxy compounds (e.g. benzoyl peroxide) and mixtures.
- Vasoconstrictors are illustrated by compounds such as papaverine, yohimbine, visnadin, khellin, bebellin and nicotinate derivatives.
- Zinc salts which may be effective include zinc thaproline, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, zinc phenolsulfonate and zinc pyrithione.
- Other substances within one or more of the above categories of actives include resorcinol, azelaic acid, oxa ic acid and cyoctol.
- Actives of the present invention may range from 0.00001 to 40%, preferably from 0.01 to 20%, optimally from 0.1 to 10% and in some instances from 1 to 8% by weight of the composition.
- vitamins and herbal extracts are usually employed at much lower levels than for instance the hydroxycarboxylic acids.
- vitamins may range from 0.0001 to 1%, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight for
- Vitamin A Vitamin A, Vitamin B and Vitamin E. Much higher levels may be tolerated for Vitamin C and these may range preferably from 0.01 to 40%, optimally from 0.1 to 30% by weight.
- the amount of the hydroxycarboxylic acid component present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.5% to 20%, more preferably from 1% to 15%, and most preferably from 3.0% to 12.0% by weight of the composition.
- Actives of the present invention will be formulated onto a flexible substrate sheet impregnated with an adhesive composition containing an anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymer.
- the composition preferably but not necessarily is non-tacky to the touch.
- the impregnated substrate sheet is sealably enclosed in a pouch, particularly a laminated foil package to control moisture level.
- Pouches of the present invention are normally of the laminated foil variety. These are heat sealed and utilize foils with very low vapor (e.g. moisture) transmission rates (a rate of transmission less than 5% per day, preferably less than 1% per day volatile fluid gain or loss) .
- Walls suitable for the pouch may utilize polyester, polyethylene or polypropylene sheets, several layers of which can be laminated together. These layers may also be provided with a coating of wax or other volatile fluid impermeable material .
- the product is used by removing the strip from its usually individually wrapped pouch and either directly wetting the composition on the sheet or indirectly by wetting the face in areas to be contacted by the composition.
- the wetting agent interacts with the composition so it becomes tacky and sufficiently mobile to flow into skin pores.
- the time between removal of strip from the pouch and use may be anywhere from 5 seconds to several hours, usually from 10 to 20 seconds.
- Pure water is the preferred wetting agent.
- Suitable wetting agents would include alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol and especially mixtures of these alcohols with water. Gels would normally consist of structured liquids (particularly water) thickened with structuring agents such as Carbomer.
- the composition is allowed to dry over the area of treatment. During drying the keratotic plugs stickingly adhere to the composition.
- the drying period ranges from 1 minute to 5 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour, optimally from 10 to 20 minutes. Thereafter, the dried composition with adhered plugs is peeled from the skin.
- Mobility of the composition may be measured by yield point.
- the yield point should range from 1 to 400 Pascals, preferably from 20 to 200, optimally from 50 to 100 Pascals.
- the composition will include an adhesive polymer which may either be anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof. Mixtures may be of polymers within any one category or between different category types. Illustrative of the latter, and a preferred embodiment, is a combination of an anionic and nonionic polymer.
- nonionic polymers suitable for adhesive film deposition are the copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of an alpha-branched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid such as vinyl neodecanoate; copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (molar ratio about 1.1) wherein such copolymers are 50% esterified with a saturated alcohol containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or butanol; and acrylic copolymers, terpolymers, etc., containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid with one or more saturated alcohols having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms such as methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butyl methacrylate,
- nonionic adhesive polymers are homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with compatible nonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate and terpolymers of ethyl acrylate, butyl methacrylate and methyl methacrylate.
- Nonionic polymers containing N-vinylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights are available commercially from ISP Corporation such as homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an average molecular weight of about 630,000 under the trademark PVP K-90 and those having an average molecular weight of about 1,000,000 sold under the trademark of PVP K-120.
- Particularly preferred is poly (methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride) as an unneutralized resin available from ISP Corporation under the trademark Gantrez® S-97 BF.
- Anionic adhesive polymers often are derived from the nonionic types which include carboxylic acid functions.
- Alkaline agents are employed to neutralize the carboxylic acid or anhydride transforming them into anionic salts.
- Suitable neutralizing agents include:
- AMPD 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol
- AEPD 2-amino-2-ethyl-l,3-propanediol
- AMP 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol
- AB 2-amino-l-butanol
- MEA monoethanolamine
- DEA diethanolamine
- TIPA triethanolamine
- MIPA monoisopropanolamine
- DIPA diisopropanol-amine
- TIPA triisopropanolamine
- DMS dimethyl stearamine
- anionic polymers are the salts of poly (methyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride) and polystyrene sulfonic acid.
- the former is obtained by at least partial neutralization of Gantrez® S-97 BF and the latter available from the National Starch & Chemical Company under the trademarks Versa TL-501 and Flexan® 130 having respective molecular weights of about 500,000 and 100,000.
- Other polymer films which may be employed and are commercially available as listed in the Table below. TABLE I
- Cationic adhesive polymers suitable for the present invention may be prepared as homo- or copolymers from monomers including:
- DAEA Dimethyl aminoethyl acrylate
- DMAEMA Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
- DMAEMA Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide
- DMAPAAm Dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide
- DMAPMAAm Dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide
- DMASt Dimethylaminostyrene
- DMAMSt Dimethyaminomethylstyrene
- Quaternized products of these with a known quaternizing agent such as alkyl halide, benzyl halide, alkyl or aryl sulfonic acid, or dialkyl sulfate.
- amphoteric adhesive polymers those derived from monomers such as:
- the salt forming group of the cationic and amphoteric polymers is not ionized, it is preferred to ionize it via neutralization with known acids such as hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid which are inorganic acids; acetic acid, propionic acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycol acid which are organic acids, or with known bases such as triethylamine, trimethylamine which are tertiary amines; ammonia; or sodium hydroxide.
- acids such as hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid which are inorganic acids; acetic acid, propionic acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycol acid which are organic acids, or with known bases such as triethylamine, trimethylamine which are tertiary amines; ammonia; or sodium hydroxide.
- Substrate sheets of the present invention may either be occlusive or non-occlusive. Preferably but not necessarily the sheets are non-occlusive to allow water evaporation from the deposited polymer as the film maturates.
- Non- occlusivity or breathability is achieved either through use of a hydrophobic substrate having physical porosity (e.g. pore channels) or a hydrophilic substrate wherein the material of construction inherently allows for breathability.
- Suitable materials include cellulosics such as rayon, wool, cotton, linen, thermoplastic fibers and combinations thereof. They may be woven or nonwoven. Nonwoven rayon is a preferred substrate. Materials formed from combinations of cellulosic with thermoplastic fibers may also be employed. For instance, a hydrophilic polypropylene/rayon combination can be employed for the present invention.
- composition to substrate sheet in amount ranging from 0.1:1 to 1,000:1, preferably 0.5:1 to 100:1 and optimally 0.8:1 to 10:1 by weight.
- the polymer ordinarily will constitute from 50 to 100%, preferably from 75 to 99%, optimally from 85 to 95% by weight of the composition deposited onto the substrate sheet.
- Minor adjunct ingredients may also be included such as fragrances, opacifiers and colorants, each in their effective amounts to accomplish their respective functions.
- a variety of polymers were evaluated for their adhesive effects in removing keratotic plugs from the skin.
- the polymers listed in Table I below were coated onto a nonwoven resin bonded rayon (1 ounce/square yard) .
- a knife- over-roll was utilized in the coating operation.
- the non-woven polymer impregnated substrate sheets were dried at 75°C in a convection oven. They were then cut into small patches.
- test patches were applied to the face of panelists in an area containing several plugged pores. The plugged pores were counted. Water was applied to the patch and it was then placed over the test area with wet side down. Next, the patch was allowed to dry whereupon it was peeled off. The number of plugs removed were counted as they appeared on the adhesive patch. Percentage of plugs removed were calculated to reflect efficiency of the test product.
- Lipid peroxidation can lead to membrane fludity changes, altered activity of membrane-bound enzymes and receptors, changes in ion permeability, protein and DNA damage and mutagenesis, which may contribute to atrributes of unhealthy skin.
- Lipid peroxidation can be induced in skin by UV radiation, ozone, environmental pollutants and other stresses.
- initiation of peroxidation is believed to involve the abstraction of a hydrogen atom from the methylene carbon located between two adjacent double bonds in a polyunsaturated fatty acid, resulting in the formation of a lipid radical, L.
- An adhesive strip of approximate size 1 x 3 inches having Gantrez S-97 BF® as described under Example 2 was coated onto PGI 5255 rayon sheet and cut into half.
- a first of the halves was employed as a blank or control strip.
- the other half was impregnated with an aqueous solution of ascorbic acid and then immediately dried in an oven to achieve a non-tacky strip.
- This half of the original strip was wetted in conjunction with a blank, to regenerate tackiness.
- Both halves were then applied to the forehead of each panelist. Application on the forehead was for a period of 15 minutes.
- Sebutape sample was taken from each site at 30 minutes, 1 hour and 3 hours.
- sebum was collected using Instant Sebutapes (CuDerm Corporation, Dallas, TX, 1 cm 2 sampling area) held on the panelist's forehead with even pressure for 15 seconds.
- the assay measures lipid hydroxyperoxides as follows: In the presence of hemoglobin, lipid hydroperoxides are reduced to hydroxyl derivatives (lipid alcohols) and the 10-N-Methylcarbamoyl-3 , 7-dimethylamino-10 H-phenothiazine (MCDP) chromagen is oxidatively cleaved to form methylene blue in an equal molar reaction. Lipid peroxides are then quantitated colorimetrically measuring the methylene blue at 675 nm (Kamiya Biochemical Company, assay protocol) . LPO values are calculated according to the following equation:
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (10)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
AU68308/98A AU731691B2 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product |
JP54481498A JP2002510285A (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetics |
PL98335764A PL335764A1 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product |
AT98913708T ATE222091T1 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | KERATOUS COMEDONE REMOVER |
HU0001514A HUP0001514A3 (en) | 1998-01-23 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product for delivery of skin actives |
BR9808272-8A BR9808272A (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product for application of skin actives. |
DE69807197T DE69807197T2 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | REMOVER FOR CERATOUS COMEDON |
CA002282442A CA2282442A1 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product |
EP98913708A EP0969806B1 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Keratotic plug remover |
EA199900847A EA002132B1 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product for removing keratonic plugs from skin pores and use |
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US3937897P | 1997-03-20 | 1997-03-20 | |
US60/039,378 | 1997-03-20 | ||
US7235598P | 1998-01-23 | 1998-01-23 | |
US60/072,355 | 1998-01-23 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO1998042303A1 true WO1998042303A1 (en) | 1998-10-01 |
Family
ID=26716077
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP1998/001423 WO1998042303A1 (en) | 1997-03-20 | 1998-03-10 | Cosmetic product |
Country Status (17)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (2) | US5935596A (en) |
EP (1) | EP0969806B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2002510285A (en) |
CN (1) | CN1255847A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE222091T1 (en) |
AU (1) | AU731691B2 (en) |
BR (1) | BR9808272A (en) |
CA (1) | CA2282442A1 (en) |
CO (1) | CO4940354A1 (en) |
CZ (1) | CZ290967B6 (en) |
DE (1) | DE69807197T2 (en) |
EA (1) | EA002132B1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2182291T3 (en) |
ID (1) | ID23787A (en) |
MY (1) | MY114940A (en) |
PL (1) | PL335764A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO1998042303A1 (en) |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
AU731691B2 (en) | 2001-04-05 |
EP0969806A1 (en) | 2000-01-12 |
CZ332899A3 (en) | 2000-02-16 |
EA002132B1 (en) | 2001-12-24 |
CZ290967B6 (en) | 2002-11-13 |
CO4940354A1 (en) | 2000-07-24 |
US5985300A (en) | 1999-11-16 |
DE69807197D1 (en) | 2002-09-19 |
MY114940A (en) | 2003-02-28 |
ES2182291T3 (en) | 2003-03-01 |
CN1255847A (en) | 2000-06-07 |
CA2282442A1 (en) | 1998-10-01 |
JP2002510285A (en) | 2002-04-02 |
AU6830898A (en) | 1998-10-20 |
BR9808272A (en) | 2000-05-16 |
PL335764A1 (en) | 2000-05-22 |
US5935596A (en) | 1999-08-10 |
ATE222091T1 (en) | 2002-08-15 |
EA199900847A1 (en) | 2000-04-24 |
ID23787A (en) | 2000-05-11 |
DE69807197T2 (en) | 2002-12-05 |
EP0969806B1 (en) | 2002-08-14 |
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