WO1997028778A1

WO1997028778A1 - Cosmetic composition containing telomerized vegetable oil

Info

Publication number: WO1997028778A1
Application number: PCT/US1997/001209
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jacob J. Guth; Donna L. Ronco; Joseph Pasapane; Joseph S. Fenelli
Original assignee: International Lubricants, Inc.
Priority date: 1996-01-26
Filing date: 1997-01-24
Publication date: 1997-08-14

Abstract

There is disclosed a cosmetic composition, comprising from about 0.1 to about 50 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of a telomerized vegetable oil which contains no more than 4 % polyunsaturated fatty acids and which contains a plurality of aliphatic rings, wherein the telomerized vegetable oil is prepared from (a) about 20 % to about 70 % of a conjugated triglyceride oil, wherein at least 25 % of the fatty acids contained therein have at least two conjugated double bonds, and (b) from about 30 % to about 80 % of a vegetable triglyceride oil, wherein the vegetable triglyceride oil has from about 10 % to about 75 % of the fatty acids contained therein being polyunsaturated and having from about 8 to about 26 carbon atom chain length; and from about 99.1 to about 0.1 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of an ingredient selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, fragrances, rheology modifiers, UV-absorbers, aesthetic enhancing agents, solubilizing agents, anti-microbial agents, pigments and other coloring agents.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING TELOMERIZED VEGETABLE OIL Field of the Invention

This invention relates to cosmetic compositions which comprise a telomerized vegetable oil as a multifunctional ingredient. Background of the Invention

Preventing or at least minimizing the loss of moisture from skin is believed to be an important way of treating dry, cracked or hard skin. This can be achieved by applying an occlusive substance to the affected area, that is, a substance that encourages moisture to be retained on a solid surface such as skin. Many natural and synthetic substances are known to exhibit occlusive properties. For instance, hydrocarbons, such as petrolatum (also know as petroleum jelly or soft paraffin) is a particularly well known skin emollient. Petrolatum has also been used as an ingredient of skin care products, such as hand creams and lotions.

Unfortunately, petrolatum is obtained from petroleum, which is a non-renewable source.

Mineral oils, lanolin, waxes and silicones are also good examples of mateπals which are used as skin emollients. One of the problems associated with lanolin and lanolin derived materials is that they are derived from animals.

Skin emollients or softeners also are commonly used to treat dry, hard or cracked skin.

They can be used either on their own or as an ingredient in various personal care products, including cosmetics. Triglyceride esters and other monomeric esters are known to be used for the purpose of softening skin. While these conventional esters may provide some occlusivity to the cosmetics, such occlusivity is transient, as these emollients are removed from the skin easily via washing or abrasion.

In addition to the emollients and occlusive agents, cosmetics also may contain solubilizing agents to enhance the formulation of certain cosmetics. For example, Ci2-15 alkyl benzoate are used as a solubilizing agent for the UV-absorber benzophenone.

In addition to the above, cosmetics also may include film-forming polymers for the purpose of increasing the water resistance of the cosmetic. Acrylate film-forming polymers are just one class of polymers used for this purpose.

It would be desirable in the cosmetic field to provide an additive for the cosmetic which imparts at least one of the above-noted properties in cosmetics, and preferable a multifunctional ingredient which acts as an emollient, an occlusive agent, a solubilizing agent and improves substantivity of the cosmetic, both with respect to water resistance and to abrasion resistance, i.e. rub-off resistance. The use of such a multifunctional additive may either enhance the performance of other additives used for such purposes, or may allow the replacement of other additives which perform these functions. Summary of the Invention

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition which comprises a telomerized vegetable oil (TVO). More specifically, the TVO is prepared from a conjugated triglyceride oil wherein at least 25 percent of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride oil contain at least two conjugated double bonds. The TVO is formed by heating the triglyceride oil for irom about 3 hours to about 10 hours at a temperature of from about 150 °C to about 400 °C. Preferably, at least 25% of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride oil contain at least three conjugated double bonds. Preferably, the telomerized vegetable oil (TVO) comprises no more than 4% polyunsaturation and comprises a plurality of aliphatic rings. The TVO is made from (a) about 20% to about 70% of a conjugated triglyceride oil, wherein the conjugated triglyceride oil has at least 25 percent of fatty acids contained therein having at least two conjugated double bonds, and (b) from about 30% to about 80% of a vegetable triglyceride oil, wherein the vegetable triglyceride oil has from about 10% to about 75% of the fatty acids contained therein being polyunsaturated and having from about 8 to about 26 carbon atom chain length. More preferably, the conjugated triglyceride oil contains at least 50% of fatty acids having at least three conjugated double bonds. Detailed Description of the Invention

The essential characteristic of the conjugated triglyceride oil is the presence of conjugated double bonds in at least 25% of the fatty acids in the triglyceride oil. Examples of appropriate conjugated triglyceride oils include, for example, tung oil, oitcica oil, seed fats of Rosaceae, Euphorbiaceae, and Cucurbitaceae families, fish oils enriched in ω-3 fatty acids, and combinations thereof Tung oil was used as an example of a conjugated triglyceride oil. Tung oil is made from kernels of the fruit of the tung tree. The tung kernels have about a 17.5% oil content. Tung oil generally has a saponification number of 160 to 175, a refractive index at 25 °C of 1.516 to 1.520 and unsaponified matter below 1 %. The fatty acid profile of tung oil is shown in Table 1 below.

Table 1 F Faattttvv AAcciidd Percent oleic acid 4-9 linoleic acid 8-10 saturated 2-6 α-eleostearic acid 77-86 linolenic acid trace

α-Eleostearic acid is a conjugated fatty acid, such as 9,11,1 -octadecatrienoic acid, and linolenic acid is predominantly (not conjugated) 9,12, 15-octadecatrienoic acid. The cold water fish oils (and cod liver oil) contain high levels of the polyunsaturated fatty acids, eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid. Alternatively, conjugated fatty acids in a triglyceride format can be obtained in a two- step synthetic process to form triglyceride oils with a conjugated diene structure. Specifically, monounsaturated plant oils, such as high erucic acid rape seed oil, corn oil, crambe oil, meadowfoam oil, linseed oil, or other plant seed oils having predominantly monounsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, first are halogenated (preferably chlorinated) and then are dehydrohalogenated (preferably with a base such as NaOH, KOH or Ca(OH)2) to yield a mixture of monounsaturated fatty acids and conjugated diene fatty acids in a triglyceride structure. This then creates an ideal mixture for telomerization using the inventive procedure. Specifically, a monounsaturated plant oil, defined as a triglyceride oil having at least 60% monoene fatty acids of C 14-22 (for example, rapeseed, corn, crambe, meadowfoam, linseed oils, etc), is halogenated by adding halogen (for example, chlorine, bromine, iodine or combinations thereof, preferably chlorine) to a solution of the monounsaturated plant oil in from about 0 to 60% by volume of halogenated solvent (defined as a halogenated solvent comprising no more than three carbon atoms, preferably wherein the halogen is chlorine and there are one or two carbon atoms (e.g., chloroform, carbon tetrachloride, methylene chloride, etc.)). The specific temperature of the halogenation reaction should be above the solidification point of the oil or oil in solvent mixture and not to exceed 50 °C, as temperature above 50 °C tend to provide substitution reactions rather than the required addition of halogen atoms across a double bond. The halogenation reaction (addition reaction) is run until at least 30% (by weight) of the halogen used is taken up. The addition reaction is stopped by treating the oil mixture with a base and stirred for 2 to 4 hours. Preferred bases are NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2 and combinations thereof. The product formed is a mixture of triglyceride oils containing monoene and conjugated diene structure plus salt (e.g., NaCl if chlorine was the halogen and NaOH the base) and any remaining solvent. The oil product is filtered to remove the salt and stripped to remove any remaining solvent. This oil product then can be used for the improved telomerization process described herein as a substitute for a natural conjugated triglyceride oil product. The advantage of this alternative "synthetic" process over obtaining a natural source of conjugated triglyceride oil is cost and availability.

The TVOs used in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are multifunctional. For example, the TVOs act as an emollient in softening the skin. In addition, the TVOs suφrisingly provide occlusive properties to the cosmetics over an extended period of time, such as several hours. The TVOs also were found unexpectedly to have a solubilizing affect on benzophenone. In certain embodiments of the invention, the TVO may be hydrogenated after formation. Hydrogenated TVO's are found to have better color and odor properties than do those unhydrogenated TVOs. This is particularly important where the cosmetic compositions require light color and low odor. The degree of hydrodrogenation will depend on the particular end-use and consistency of the TVO. For instance, as the degree of hydrogenation increases, the melting point of the TVO increases. Depending on the degree of hydrogenation, the TVO can take on the form of a liquid oil, a semi-solid, a waxy-type consistency, or a soft or hard solid. The TVOs may have weight average molecular weight (Mw) of from about 4,000 to about 200,000, as determined by gel permeation chromatography using polystyrene as a standard. Preferably, the TVOs will have M of from about 5,000 to about 150,000. The cosmetic compositions which comprise the TVO according to the invention may take various forms, including wateφroof sunscreens, hand and body lotions, dry skin therapy creams, water resistant base lotions, water resistant liquid make-up, conditioning shampoos, cream conditioners for damaged hair, water dispersible bath oils and protective lip balm with sunscreens. Such cosmetic compositions are set forth below in detail. Typically, the cosmetic compositions will comprise from about 0.1 to about 50 weight percent of the TVO, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions. Preferably, the cosmetic compositions will comprise from about 1.0 to about 15 weight percent of the TVO, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

The cosmetic compositions may also comprise from about 99.9 to about 0.1 weight percent of an ingredient conventionally used in the formulation of cosmetics. Such ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, fragrances, rheology modifiers, UV- absorbers, aesthetic enhancing agents, solubilizing agents, anti-microbial agents, pigments and other coloring agents. When used, the ingredients are used in amounts which are conventional for use in cosmetics. Exemplary rheology modifiers include Carbomer, magnesium aluminum silicates and cellulose gums. Exemplary emulsifiers include emulsifying waxes, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, PEG 100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, Polysorbate 81, Oleth-5 and Oleth-10. Exemplary anti-microbials include methylparaben, propylparaben, diazolidinyl urea, hydantoin and iodopropynl butylcarbamate. Exemplary aesthetic enhancing agents include dimethicone and aluminum starch octenyl succinate. Exemplary solubilizing agents include C12-15 alkyl benzoate and myristyl myristate. Exemplary pigments and coloring agents include titanium dioxide, iron oxide and pearling agents. Exemplary UV-absorbers include octyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3. One skilled in the art, once having the benefit of this specification, would be able to ascertain which additional ingredient is used in formulating a particular cosmetic composition and the level at which the additional ingredient is used.

The following cosmetic formulations and examples are exemplary and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, the scope of which is limited only by the claims appended hereto.

High SPF Sunscreen

Ingredients %WAV

Phase A

Deionized Water 63.90 Carbomer 0.20 Glycerin 2.00 Triethanolamine 0.40 1 Phase B Myristyl Myristate 3.00 Dimethicone 1.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 1.00 Oleth-5 1.00 Oleth-10 2.00

Emulsifying Wax N.F. 4.00 PVO M_w 66,000 5.00

Phase C Glycerin 3.00 Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate 2.00

Phase D

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and Methylparaben and Propylparaben 1.00 100.00

Procedure: Combine Phase A, heat to 80 "C. Combine Phase B, heat to 80 °C. Add Phase B to Phase A at 80 ^*C, mix for 10 minutes. Cool to 40 °C. Slurry Phase C, add to A/B at 40 °C mix thoroughly. Add Phase D, mix until uniform. Cool to room temperature and package.

j Ingredients %W/W

Phase A

Deionized Water 83.45

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.20

Methylparaben 0.15

Na2 EDTA 0.05

Glycerin 2.00

Carbomer 0.05

Triethanolamine 0.70

Phase B

Stearic Acid T.P. 2.50

Dimethicone 1.00

Cetyl Alcohol 0.70

Glyceryl Stearate 1.50

C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 1.00

Propylparaben 0.10

PVO M_w 66,000 2.50

Phase C

Glycerin 3.00

Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate 1.00

Phase D

DMDM Hydantoin and Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate 0.10

100.00

Procedure: Phase A, disperse the Veegum into the Deionized water, add remaining Phase A ingredients. Heat to 80 °C. Combine Phase B, heat to 80 °C. Add Phase B to Phase A at 80 °C, mix for 10 minutes. Cool to 40 °C. Slurry Phase C, add to A/B at 40 "C, mix thoroughly. Add Phase D, mix until uniform. Cool to room temperature and package.

Ingredients %WΛV

Phase A

Deionized Water 76.00

Carbomer 0.20

Methylparaben 0.15

Triethanolamine 0.30

Phase B

Myristyl Myristate 4.00

Dimethicone 1.00

Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00

Steareth-20 1.00

C12-15 Alkyls Benzoate 1.00

Propylparaben 0.10

TVO M_w 66,000 10.00

Phase C

Glycerin 3.00

Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate 2.00

Phase D

DMDM Hydantoin and Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate 0.25

100.00

Procedure: Combine Phase A, heat to 80 °C. Combine B, heat to 80 "C. Add Phase B to Phase A at 80 °C, mix for 10 minutes. Cool to 40 °C. Slurry Phase C, add to A/B at 40 °C, mix thoroughly. Add Phase D, mix until uniform. Cool to room temperature and package.

Water Resistant Base Lotion

Ingredients %W W

Phase A Deionized Water 65.50

Carbomer 10.00

Sorbitol 70% 5.0

Phase B

Stearic Acid 2.20

Isopropyl Palmitate 9.00 TVO M_w 121,000 3.00

Glyceryl Stearate & PEG 100 Stearate 1.50 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 1.20

Phase C Triethanolamine 1.20

Phase D

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and 1.00 Methylparaben and propylparaben

Procedure: Combine ingredients in Phase A and heat to 80 to 85 °C, with constant agitation. Combine ingredients in phase B and heat to 80 to 85 "C. Add Phase B to Phase A. Maintain temperature for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on size of the batch. Add Phase C. Cool to 35 to 40 °C then add Phase D and Phase E.

Ingredients %W/W

Phase A

TVO M_w 66,000 7.50

Zinc Stearate USP 1.00

Isopropyl Palmitate 6.50 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 3.00 Dimethicone 0.50

Propylparaben NF 0.10 Cocoa Butter 1.00

Beeswax, White 2.00

Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2.25

Polydecene 6.75

Phase B

Polysorbate 81 0.50 Methylparaben NF 0.15 Sodium Borate 1 00

3,3' Thiodipropionic Acid 0.10 Water, Deionized 56.75 Carbomer 10.00

Phase C Triethanolamine 0.50

Phase D

Fragrance 0.40

100.00

Procedure: Add all ingredients of Phase A except for the zinc stearate. Heat to 70 °C. When all of the waxes are melted begin agitation. Slowly sprinkle the zinc stearate into Phase A. The batch will not be completely clear, but the zinc stearate must be free of lumps. In a separate vessel, add Phase B. With agitation, add and dissolve the methylparaben, borax Tween 81 and thiodipropionic acid. Heat the solution to 50 °C and add the Carbopol dispersion. Add Phase A to Phase B and mix. With vigorous agitation, slowly add Phase C to the mixture of Phases A and B. Homogenize the batch and pass through a colloid mill. Continue mixing and cool the batch to 40 "C. Add the fragrance. Water Resistant Liαuid Make UD

Ingredients %w w |

Phase A

Stearic Acid 2.00

Glycol Stearate 3.00

Isopropyl Palmitate 8.00

TVO M_w 66,000 8.00

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 5.00

Dimethicone 0.50

Phase B

Water 50.30

Cellulose Gum 0.50

Glycerin 6.00

Phase C

Triethanolamine 1.00

Phase D

Titanium Oxide 2.50

Iron Oxides 1.25

Phase E

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and 0.50

Methylparaben and Propylparaben

Phase F

Fragrance 0.20

Phase G

Water 11.25

100.00

Procedure: Heat Phase A in a side vessel to 65 ^*C. Add Phase B to manufacturing kettle and heat to 80 °C. Add Phase A to Phase B under agitation. Add Phase C under agitation. Start homomixer and slowly add Phase D to the mixture of Phases A, B and C. Cool to 50 °C, and add Phase E, Phase F and Phase G under agitation. Continue cooling to recommended fill temperature.

Ingredients %W W |

Phase A

Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 35.00

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate 20.00

Hydropropyl Cellulose 25.00

Phase B

TVO M_w 66,000 1.00

Pearl Concentrate PK810 6.00

Monamid 716 3.00

Steareth-20 0.75

Steareth-2 0.25

Phase C

Fragrance 0.25 Phase D

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and 0.50 Methylparaben and Propylparaben

Phase E

Citric Acid 25% Soln. 0.75

Water 7.50

100.00

Procedure: Add all Phase A ingredients to manufacturing kettle under agitation. Avoid unnecessary aeration. In separate vessel, add all Phase B ingredients and heat to 65 °C. Add Phase B to Phase A under agitation. Add Phase C and Phase D to the mixture of Phases A and B under agitation. Recirculate product in closed colloid mill, avoiding aeration. Add Phase E and adjust pH to 6.5.

Cream Conditioner for Damaeed Ha lir

| Ingredients %W/W

Phase A

Sodium Stearamphoacetate 4.00

PEG-8 Distearate 4.00

Cetyl Alcohol 2.50

Distearyl Dimonium Chloride 1.00

TVO M_w 66,000 1.50

Phase B

Water 86.50

Phase C

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and 0.20

Methylparaben and Popylparaben

Phase D

Fragrance 0.30

100.00

Procedure: Blend all ingredients in Phase A and heat to 60 °C. Heat Phase B to 60 °C in main manufacturing kettle. Add Phase A to Phase B under agitation. Cool to 50 °C and add

Phase C and Phase D to the mixture of Phases A and B. Homomix until uniform. Allow to cool.

Water Dispersible Bath Oil

Ingredients %W W

Phase A

TVO M_w 104,000 40.00

Isopropyl Palmitate 40.00

PEG-8 Dilaurate 17.00

Phase B

Fragrance 3.00

100.00

Procedure: Mix all ingredients in Phase A under agitation. Add Phase B to Phase A. Mix and send sample for approval. Protective LID Balm with Sunscreen

Ingredients %W/W

Phase A

Petrolatum 71.65

Ceresine 20.00

Phase B

TVO M_w 121,000 6.00

Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate 2.00

Phase C Silica 0.20

Phase D Flavor 0,15 100.00

Procedure: Combine ingredients in Phase A and heat to 80 ^*C. When Phase A is completely clear, start mixing, cool to 70 °C and add Phase B and Phase C. Cool to 60 °C, add Phase D while mixing. Maintain temperature at 60 °C, pour into molds.

WATERPROOF SUNSCREEN (APPROXIMATE SPF 15)

Ingredients %W/W

Phase A

Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50

Benzophenone-3 3.00

Octyl Palmitate 3.00

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00

Stearic Acid T P. 2.00

PEG-40 Stearate 1.50

Dimethicone Copolyol 1.00

TVO M_w 2.00

Phase B

Deionized Water 77.10

Carbomer 941 0.20

Triethanolamine (99%) 0;70

Phase C

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and 1.00

Methylparaben and Propylparaben

Phase D

Fragrance 0,20

100.00

Procedure: Disperse Carbopol 941 into water and heat to 80 °C. Add Triethanolamine slowly to prepare Phase B. Combine Phase A ingredients, heat to 80 °C. Add Phase A to Phase B at 80 °C and mix for 15 minutes. Cool to 40 "C and add Phase C and Phase D to the mixture of Phases A and B. Cool to room temperature and package. SCREENING METHOD FOR RUB-OFF RESISTANCE EQUIPMENT: Glass plates - jig Glass slides 20 mil draw down bird Analytical balance 675 g weight PROCEDURE:

1. Prepare glass plate jig by gluing glass slides across bottom to support test slides.

2. Weigh four glass slides.

3. Place four test slides in center of glass plate against stationary slides - place additional slides on sides and across tops of test slides. 4. Draw down 20 mil (1 mil = 1/1000 inch) wet film the skin cream formulation noted herein below on the four pre-weighed slides. Allow to dry for one hour *

5. Take weight of slides.

6. Wipe slides with paper towels under closely controlled conditions - 1 pass w/weighted fixture (675 g). 7. Re-weight slides.

CALCULATIONS:

Weight of slide with sample - weight of slide

= Initial Sample Weight

Weight of slide with sample after wipe - weight of slide = Weight of Sample After Wipe

Weight of sample after wipe x 100 = % Substantivity

Initial Sample Weight

An average is take of the four samples and reported as % Substantivity for each sample evaluated. *Under normal average conditions of 72-75 °F and 35-55% R.H. (dry in CTH Room if conditions warrant)

Skin Cream Formulation

Ingredient % W/W

PHASE A:

Octyl palmitate 6.0

Stearic acid 4.0

Glyceryl stearate 2.0

PEG 40 stearate 1.0

Dimethicone copolyol 1.0

TVO M_w 66,000 1.0

PHASE B: deionized water 87.75

Carbomer 0.25

Triethanolamine 1.0 PHASE C:

Propylene Glycol and Diazolidinyl Urea and 1.0

Methylparaben and Popylparaben Procedure: Disperse Carbomer into deionized water, heat to 80 °C, add triethanolamine. Combine Phase A, heat to 80 ^βC. Add Phase A to Phase B at 80 °C, mix for ten minutes. Cool to 40 °C. Add Phase C and mix thoroughly. Cool to room temperature and package. WATERPROOF TEST (IN VITRO) FOR SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS

This procedure measures the water-resistance of a sunscreen formulation on an inert substance such as a swatch of virgin wool. Virgin wool is a keratin protein which is used as a substrate to approximate human skin. APPARATUS:

Perkin-Elmer Lambda 5 UV/VIS Spectrophotometer (or equivalent). Volumetric flasks - 4 x 100 ml.) Beakers - 2 x 250 ml. Magnetic/heating stir plates (2)

Large (2" x 3/4") and small (1-1/4" x 5/8") magnetic stirrer bars. Water bath: 2 x 4000 ml beakers Nylon line; fishing swivels and 1/4 oz. sinkers. WOOL: White, worsted 3 " x 3 "

REAGENT:

Isopropanol (Spectra grade) PROCEDURE:

1. Take the wool square and weigh it to four decimal places. Spread 0.15 to 0.20 grams of wateφroof sunscreen formulation (Approximate SPF 15) evenly in center. Reweigh immediately (Difference - sample weight). Repeat using another wool square (Difference - control weight).

2. Dry the wool for exactly 20 minutes at room temperature (20 °C to 25 °C).

3. Using fishing swivel to attach a nylon line and a small sinker to opposite side of wool square. Use a large magnetic stir bar to circulate water (3.5 liters at 20 °C to 25 °C) in a 4 liter glass beaker. Suspend the nylon/wool/sinker assembly over the batch so that wool circulates freely due to the sir bar action and remains submerged due to the weight of the sinker. Stir for 20 minutes and then remove wool from water.

4. Dry the wool thoroughly (12 hours) at room temperature. 5. Extract the sunscreen from the wool by boiling (82.5 ^°C) it in 90 ml. of isopropanol for 10 minutes under an exhaust hood on a stirring hot plate using a small magnetic stir bar. 6. Cool the extract to room temperature and transfer to a 100 ml volumetric flask. Wash beaker thoroughly with isopropanol several times and add washes to volumetric flask.

Dilute to 100 ml. with isopropanol. Take a 1 ml. aliquot and dilute again to 100 ml. with isopropanol. 7. Measure sunscreen activity of the last dilution in a UV spectrophotometer (sample peak absorbance). 8. For Control, do not run step 3 but repeat steps 4 - 7 on the unwashed wool square (to obtain the Control peak absorbance). CALCULATION: sample peak absorbance/sample weight

% Substantivity = x 100

Control peak absorbance/control weight THE TEWL TEST FOR OCCLUSrVITY

This procedure is used to determine the occlusive effects of topically applied products relative to an untreated control over a six hour time period as revealed by transepidermal water loss.

EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN: A. Panelist Selection:

The panel was comprised of healthy adults who were willing to stay under observation for the duration of the study which was approximately seven hours. None of the panelists had been on any other experimental studies over the previous month and all were provided with a commercially available soap for general washing. They were also instructed not to use any other products on their forearms, such as moisturizers, sunscreens, barrier creams, etc. during the week prior to actual testing. B. Materials and Methods:

Each panelist was logged in and three 5 x 5 cm test sites on each of the panelist's volar forearms were mapped out. The panelists were instructed to keep their arms air-exposed for the duration of the study. After a 30 minute period of accommodation to the lab's ambient conditions of 68 ° ± 2 °F and RH maintained at less than 45%, a series of Baseline measurements of the non-treated skin was taken at each of the test sites. The assessments were repeated until consistent values were seen at all test sites for each panelist.

The panelists then reported to a technician who treated the sites.

Exactly 0.05 cc of each test material was delivered to the appropriate mapped site and a glass rod used to gently spread an even film of the product over the test area. One site was left untreated to serve as a control site. Test product application was done according to a randomization schedule. The time required to complete the treatment on the sites was approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

No measurements were taken immediately after product application and the panelists were asked to remain at rest in a waiting room set up adjacent to the instrumental room. 1. Servo Med Evaporimeter:

Evaporative water loss measurements provide an instrumental assessment of skin barrier function. These measurements were made using recently calibrated Servo Med instruments (Unit #231/Probe #87 and Unit #192/Prove #259) as designed by Nilsson and described by Pinnagoda [Pinnagoda, J., R.A. Tupker, T. Anger and J. Serup. Guidelines for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement. In: Contact Dermatitis 1990: 22:164-178]. The Servo Med instruments are comprised of a hand held probe which is attached by a cable to a portable electronic display unit. Each probe consists of an open cylinder, 15.5 mm long, with a mean diameter of 12.5 mm. Two sensors within each probe measure the temperature and relative humidity at two fixed points approximately 4 mm apart, along the axis normal to the skin surface. This arrangement is such that the device can electronically derive a value that corresponds to evaporative water loss in gm/m hr.

The data from the evaporimeter was collected by a data collection system utilizing a Dia-Stron A/D conversion board and associated software. The extracted value refers to the average evaporative water loss rate collected over a twenty second interval once steady state conditions had been achieved.

Such measures provide a noninvasive method for determining the barrier function of the stratum corneum. SOLUBILITY OF BENZOPHENONE BV TVO: Benzophenone was added to a TVO having M_w 66,000 at w/w ratios of 1.5:8.5 and

1 :9, respectively. After an initial time period to allow for solubilization of the benzophenone in the TVO, visual observations were made as to the appearance of the mixture and recorded.

The mixtures were allowed to stand for a 24 hour period, at which time further visual observations were made as to the appearance of the mixture. Benzophenone was added to Finsolv TN at a w/w ratio of 1.5 : 8.5. After an initial time period to allow for solubilization of the benzophenone in the Finsolv TN, visual observations were made as to the appearance of the mixture and recorded. The mixtures were allowed to stand for a 24 hour period, at which time further visual observations were made as to the appearance of the mixture Results are presented in Table 4. Table 2

OCCLUSΓVΠΎ OF THE TVO (% TEWL Reduction)

Compound 2-hours 4-hours 5-hours 6-hours |

2% lanolin 29.2 20.1 5.2 12.3

4% lanolin 31.2 31.2 15.5 14.7

2% TVO 40.0 24.3 16.4 20.7

4% TVO 33.6 23.2 10.4 18.4 j

The above results indicate that the TVO retains its occlusive properties over an extended period of time, while the lanolin is exhibiting more of a transitory occlusive property. The fact that the occlusivity properties are retained for long periods of time is unexpected given that nowhere in the art is it suggested that these TVOs will provide occlusive properties for extended periods of time when compared to occlusive agents used heretofore.

The results indicate that a TVO of molecular weight about 7,000 performs better than mineral oil both with respect to water resistance and to rub-off. The TVO is better than lanolin with respect to rub-off and equivalent to lanolin with respect to water resistance. Again, these results were unexpected given the lack of any suggestion in the art which would indicate that the TVOs would exhibit such properties.

SOLUBΠJTY

Table 4

% W W % TVO % Observation Benzophenone (Mw 65 K) Finsolv TN

5 95 — Initial solubilization Some crystallization after 24 hours

10 90 — Stubble to crystallization after 3 months

15 — 85 Initial solubilization Some crystallization after 24 hours

As the results indicate, at appropriate w/w ratios, the TVOs will solubilize benzophenone. Such affects are believed to enhance formulation of the cosmetic.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising: from about 0.1 to about 50 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of a telomerized vegetable oil which contains no more than 4% polyunsaturated fatty acids and which contains a plurality of aliphatic rings, wherein the telomerized vegetable oil is prepared from (a) about 20% to about 70% of a conjugated triglyceride oil, wherein at least 25 percent of the fatty acids contained therein have at least two conjugated double bonds, and (b) from about 30% to about 80% of a vegetable triglyceride oil, wherein the vegetable triglyceride oil has from about 10% to about 75% of the fatty acids contained therein being polyunsaturated and having from about 8 to about 26 carbon atom chain length; and from about 99.1 to about 0.1 weight percent, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of an ingredient selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, fragrances, rheology modifiers, UV-absorbers, aesthetic enhancing agents, solubilizing agents, anti- microbial agents, pigments and other coloring agents.

2. The cosmetic composition of Claim 1 wherein the conjugated triglyceride oil is obtained from tung oil, fish oils enriched in ω-3 fatty acids, cod liver oil and combinations thereof.

3. The cosmetic composition of Claims 1 wherein the vegetable triglyceride oil is obtained from rapeseed oil, crambe oil, meadowfoam oil, soya bean oil, peanut oil, corn oil, safflower oil, sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, linseed oil and combinations thereof.

4. The cosmetic composition of Claims 2 wherein the vegetable triglyceride oil is obtained from rapeseed oil, crambe oil, meadowfoam oil, soya bean oil, peanut oil, corn oil, safflower oil, sunflower seed oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, linseed oil and combinations thereof.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 comprising from about 1 to about 15 weight percent of the telomerized vegetable oil and from about 99 to about 85 weight percent of the ingredient selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, fragrances, rheology modifiers, UV-absorbers, aesthetic enhancing agents, solubilizing agents, anti-microbial agents, pigments and other coloring agents.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the telomerized vegetable oil has a weight average molecular weight of from about 4,000 to about 200,000, as determined by gel permeation chromatography using polystyrene as a standard.

7. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the telomerized vegetable oil has a weight average molecular weight of from about 5,000 to about 150,000, as determined by gel permeation chromatography using polystyrene as a standard.

8. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the composition comprises benzophenone as the UN-absorber and the weight ratio of TVO to benzophenone-3 is greater than 8.5 to 1.5.

9. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the composition comprises benzophenone as the UN-absorber and the weight ratio of TVO to benzophenone-3 is greater than or equal to 9 to 1.

10. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein at least 25 percent of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride oil contain at least three conjugated double bonds.

11. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein at least 50 percent of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride oil contain at least two conjugated double bonds.