WO1997015204A1 - Adjustable garments and methods for making same - Google Patents

Abstract

Garments and methods for making those garments by cutting a woven fabric along a bias (6) and then seaming (9) the fabric parallel to the actual grain (5) of the fabric thus forming a tubular or conical shaped garment. This method can be used in a variety of garments such as dresses and skirts.

Description

ADJUSTABLE GARMENTS AND METHODS FOR MAKING SAME REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

Reference is made to U.S. Provisional Application Serial No. 60/005,962, filed on October 27, 1995, which is incorporated herein by reference. FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to garments and methods of making them, such as adjustable garments and methods of making them. More particularly, the invention relates to garments which can be sculpted for various looks and to methods for making them. The invention further relates to such garments which can be substantially "one size fits all". BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION clothes and clothing have heretofore involved many pieces of fabric and many seams; and, clothes and clothing have been subject to the requirement that the clothes be sized to the wearer. For instance, in the U.S., women's clothing runs from about size 2 to about size 16, with greater than size 16 being for larger women. Men's clothing can be sized according to the man's chest size. Sizing lends to confusion for buyers and wearers. Furthermore, sizing varies according to locale. For instance, in clothes sizing the U.S. is different from clothes sizing in European countries. Some clothing has attempted to be for all wearers, but the "one size fits all" concept in clothing has heretofore been generally unsuccessful as not exceptionally stylish, or as requiring a great deal of elastic or elastic banding.

It would be advantageous to have garments such as substantially "one size fits all" garments based upon the cut and seam of the fabric employed in the manufacture of the garment; and it would be advantageous to simplify garment manufacture. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention provides garments comprised of woven fabric wherein the fabric has a substantially bias cut, and a seam substantially along or parallel to the fabric grain, e.g., garments comprised of woven fabric wherein the fabric has a cut substantially perpendicular to weave or along a diagonal of the weave, and a seam substantially parallel or along the cut.

The invention provides methods for making such garments by bias cutting a piece of fabric or cutting a piece of fabric perpendicular to weave or along a diagonal of the weave, to a desired size and, adding a seam so as to form a truncated cone, cylinder or tube. The truncated cone, cylinder or tube can be used as a skirt, or can be further fabricated into other clothing items.

The invention utilizes the elasticity of woven fabrics in the direction diagonal to the weave.

These and other embodiments and obvious variations within the scope of the invention are set forth in the following detailed description. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

The invention shall be described in greater detail in the following detailed description by reference to the accompanying drawings, incorporated herein by reference, wherein:

Fig. IA shows a fabric 1' of the present invention (woven in a substantially perpendicular pattern) ; Figs. IB and IC show pieces of fabric of the present invention (in substantially parallelogram form) ;

Fig. ID shows a basic cone 10 of the present invention;

Figs. 2, 2A, 2B show a high-cut neckline dress of the present invention;

Figs. 3, 3A, 3B show a low-cut neckline dress of the present invention; Fig. 4A to 4C show a dress, blouse, or shirt of the present invention;

Fig. 5 shows a skirt of the present invention with flexible length; Fig. 5A shows the skirt of Fig. 5 having a hemline below the knee of a model;

Fig. 5B shows the skirt of Fig. 5 as a knee- length folded skirt on the model;

Fig. 5C shows the skirt of Fig. 5 as an above- the-knee length further folded skirt on the model;

Fig. 5D shows the skirt of Fig. 5A on the model while walking (skirt of the present invention having a hemline below the knee) ;

Fig. 5E shows the skirt of Fig. 5B on the model while walking (knee-length folded skirt of the present invention) ;

Fig. 5F shows the skirt of Fig. 5C on the model while walking (an above-the-knee length skirt of the present invention) ; Fig. 6 shows a skirt of the present invention with flexible length;

Fig. 7, 7B, and 8 show a dress, blouse, or shirt of the present invention;

Fig. 7A, 7C and 7D show sleeve constructions for garments of the invention;

Fig. 9 shows pants of the invention; and,

Fig. 10 shows briefs of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to adjustable garments and methods for manufacturing such garments. The garments can be skirts, dresses, blouses, pants, t- shirts, and the like. The garments have the ability to be sculpted to a desired shape; for instance, by bunching, folding, crunching, and the like; and, the garment can take a plurality of bunches, folds, crunches, etc. , and retain the same even in use. Preferably, the garments are basically constructed from a single piece of fabric which is cut on the bias and has one continuous seam, such that the piece of fabric is rolled into a truncated cone, tube or cylinder, and the seam is along or parallel to the straight grain. Of course, the garment can include additional fabric pieces, such as for a collar or sleeve.

Accordingly, the seam preferably follows a helical shape (right handed or left handed) around the garment. The garment is adjustable and preferably "one size fits all" either in one sizing or in general sizing such as "small", "medium", "large" sizing because preferably the cut of the fabric is substantially perpendicular to the weave of the fabric, and preferably so too is the seam. Of course, in t-shirt and pants embodiments the seam may appear straight. For instance, in pants the seam may be straight for each leg, and then the legs joined at the crotch, with sufficient material to form the pants from the waist to the crotch.

Thus, the invention comprehends a method of manufacture of garments which is simpler and cost-saving in comparison to previous methods. The method can involve simply selecting a suitable piece of fabric, cutting it to the desired shape, and adding the seam to form the basic truncated cone, cylinder or tube. The truncated cone, cylinder or tube can be skirt. If a dress or shirt is desired, arm holes can then be added; and optionally a collar.

Turning to the Figures, Fig. IA illustrates fabric 1' comprised of threads 1 and 2 woven in a substantially perpendicular pattern. Line 3 illustrates the preferred substantially perpendicular-to-weave or diagonal line for cutting the fabric and for the seam in fabricating the truncated cone, tube or cylinder.

Figs. IB and IC illustrate piece of fabric 4 and 4' which are substantially parallelograms. Fabric 4 and 4' can be fabricated into the truncated cone, tube or cylinder. In Fig IB, arrow 5 represents the grain, and line 7, substantially parallel to arrow 5 represents the straight grain. Line 6 represents the bias. Line 6 is at the top and bottom of fabric 4 whereas arrow 5 and line 7 are at the sides of fabric 4. Dotted line 8 extending from the top of fabric 4, where lines 5 and 6 meet, to an area at the bottom of fabric 4 a distance from where lines 5 and 6 meet at the bottom of fabric 4 represents a permissible "off-bias" extension which allows for the fabric to be rolled into a truncated cone (as opposed to a straight cylinder) .

Fig. ID illustrates the basic cone 10. Referring to Fig. IA and Fig ID, the orientation of the fabric versus the weave is how the basic cone can be stretched. Line 9 in basic cone 10 represents the seam. It has been observed that various individuals of various sizes can wear the basic cone as a skirt (illustrated in Figures discussed below) , even without the need for an elastic waist-band, thereby allowing garments to be substantially "one size fits all". Of course, given the varying girth and height of individuals, sizing such as in "small", "medium" and "large" or the like is preferred for garments of the invention. However, the invention admits of eliminating the confusing sizing system presently used in women's clothing, as well as the confusion caused by sizing varying among locales such as sizing in the U.S. being different from that in European countries.

Furthermore, while the invention admits of not needing elastic for being substantially "one size fits all", one can employ elastic, for instance at the waist such as a waist band, for a more tight fit at desired areas. However, by the fabric cut and fabric seam in the garment, the wearer's area of greatest girth or the portion of the wearer that protrudes greatest is the area where the garment clings.

Figs. 2, 2A, 2B, 3, 3A, and 3B illustrate dresses 20 20', 20", 30, 30' and 30" of the invention, fabricated from the basic truncated cone, cylinder or tube. Line 9 is the seam. The seam runs around the front and back of the garment, in a substantially helical manner. Openings 21 and 31 are arm holes cut into the basic truncated cone, cylinder or tube. And, openings 22 and 32 are head holes. The perimeters of the holes 21, 31, 22, and 32 can be stitched so that there is not rough fabric edges. The dress can be folded, bunched, crunched and the like, as illustrated and described below with respect to the skirt. The dresses of these Figures vary in the diameter of the lower portion of the dress, i.e., in the tapering of the dress; and, this is achieved by varying the degree of truncation of the cone when forming the truncated cone, cylinder or tube from fabric. Figs. 4A to 4C illustrate dress, shirt or blouse 40, 40', 40" and 400 fabricated from the basic truncated cone, cylinder or tube. Line 9 is the seam. The seam runs around the front and back of the garment, in a substantially helical manner. Openings 41, like openings 21 and 31 in the dresses of Figs. 2 and 3 are arm holes cut into the basic truncated cone, cylinder or tube. And, where openings 22 and 32 (head holes) are situated in Figs. 2 and 3, there is opening 45, 45' or 45" which can be rounded or v-neck (as can the head openings in other Figs) ; however, appended, preferably by stitching, to opening 45 is collar 43. Considering all of the Figs., collar 43 is an optional piece of the garment (see Figs. 4C and 4D, or the earlier described dresses, for instance) . Further, considering collar 43, one can add sleeves (for instance, by stitching) to openings 21, 31, and 41 of the garments of the Figs, to have a sleeved dress, blouse, or shirt. Likewise, the collar of the garment of Fig. 4 can be omitted; and, the length of the garment sufficiently short such that the garment is a shirt, such a t-shirt. Thus, Fig. 7, 7B show a sleeved dress, blouse or skirt 70 with seams 9 having a substantially double helical pattern running through sleeves 75 and 75'; and Fig. 8 shows a sleeved dress, blouse or skirt 80 with seam 9 having a substantially helical pattern running through the body of the garment, with sleeves 85 appended by stiching. Figs. 7A, 7C and 7D show seamed fabric of the invention which can be used as sleeves, for instance.

Figs. 5, 5A to 5F and 6 illustrate a basic skirt 50 and 50' of the invention, having seam 9. In Fig. 5, the skirt 50 is flat. Seam 9 in all of Figs. 5, 5A to 5F and 6 connects the edges of the fabric and runs from top to bottom and arount the skirt in a substantially helical manner. With regard to the seam 9, the skirt 50 or 50' can be oriented on the wearer in any manner; that is, there is really no "front" per se or "back" per se of the skirt.

Fig. 5A shows the skirt 50 on a model. The seam 9 is situated on the model's right side. The skirt is in its full-length appearance, below the model's knee, about mid-way down the model's calf. As will be evident from the following Figures, the skirt 50 is adjustable.

Indeed, Fig. 5B shows skirt 50 with fold (bunch, crunch, etc) 55 such that the skirt 50 now sits above the model's knee. As shown in Figures below, the fold 55 is maintained in active wear, such as walking, moving, etc. That is, the fold 55 is a temporary sculpting of the garment which is able to be maintained in typical wear, such that the garment lends itself to various uses or looks. And, as is shown in Figures below, the garment can have a plurality of folds (55'). It is believed that the ability to temporarily sculpt the garments of the invention comes from the one continuous seam substantially perpendicular to the weave of the fabric and the initial cut of the fabric substantially on the bias.

Fig. 5C shows skirt 50 at mid-thigh on the model by means of multiple folds 55'. Note that seam 9 starts to the left of the model's navel, and runs substantially helically to the right; but that the seam can be rotated, without loss of appearance (because as mentioned earlier, there is really no "front" per se or "back" per se of the skirt) .

Figs. 5D to 5F show side views of the skirt 50 on the model of Figs 5A to 5C, with the model in motion (walking) . Note in Fig. 5D seam 9 running along the side of the model. Note further how folds 55 and 55' do not unfold or lose their sculpting when the wearer moves.

Accordingly, the sculpting can be maintained for a day's wear. For instance, the wearer can wear the skirt 50 long as shown in Figs. 5A or 5B during the workday, and, when leaving work, impart fold 55 or 55' to go out after work, without having to change into a different skirt more casual evening wear. Thus, the skirt 50 can be fashioned for the occasion, as the wearer needs, throughout the day.

Fig. 6 shows skirt 50', which is generally the concept of the skirt 50, with lines at the lower portion of the skirt representing possible extensions of the skirt.

As mentioned earlier, straight tubes or cylinders, and straight seams are possible variations, for instance, when forming garments such as t-shirts or pants (e.g., pant legs). Thus, Fig. 9 illustrates pants 100 of the invention, and Fig 10 illustrates briefs 1000 of the invention. Figs. 9 and 10 further demonstrate that the invention is not limited to any particular garment type.

Thus, while the garments illustrated have generally been women's garments, the invention comprehends men's and unisex garments as well. Accordingly, gender is not a limitation of the invention. Further, the invention applies to any woven fabric. That is, garments can be fabricated from natural or synthetic or blended woven fabrics such as woven: cotton, wool, cotton blends, wool blends, rabbit hair, rabbit hair blends, mohair, mohair blends, polyester, rayon, acylate, polyester blends, rayon blends, acrylate blends, silk, silk blends, linen, linen blends, etc. However, the invention functions best with stretch fabric or Jersey (machine knit) fabric, e.g., stretch wool, silk, or a fabric containing an elastic such as lycra or spandex; or matte rayon Jersey. It also works with regular knits as well. Likewise, the invention applies to garments of any color or color blends. Thus, fabric, color and gender are not limitations. And, seams can be made by any suitable stitching means.

Having thus described in detail preferred embodiments of the present invention, it is to be understood that the invention defined by the appended claims is not to be limited to particular details set forth in the above description as many apparent variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit or scope of the present invention.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:

1. A garment comprised of woven fabric wherein the fabric has a substantially bias cut, and a seam substantially along or parallel to the fabric grain.

2. A garment comprised of woven fabric wherein the fabric has a cut substantially perpendicular to weave or along a diagonal of the weave, and a seam substantially parallel or along the cut.

3. A method for making a garment by bias cutting a piece of fabric or cutting a piece of fabric perpendicular to weave or along a diagonal of the weave, to a desired size and, adding a seam so as to form a truncated cone, cylinder or tube.

4. A method of fashioning a skirt or dress for a desired occasion comprising folding the skirt or dress so that the skirt or dress is a desired length wherein the skirt or dress is comprised of woven fabric cut substantially parallel to or along to cut.

5. The garment of claim 1 which is a skirt.

6. The garment of claim 1 which is a dress.

7. The garment of claim 1 which is a skirt.

8. The garment of claim 1 which is a dress.

9. The method of claim 3 wherein the garment is a skirt.

10. The method of claim 3 wherein the garment is a dress.