WO1997003645A1

WO1997003645A1 - Cosmetic body care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion

Info

Publication number: WO1997003645A1
Application number: PCT/FR1996/001126
Authority: WO
Inventors: Philippe Msika; Pascale Besinet
Original assignee: Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique
Priority date: 1995-07-20
Filing date: 1996-07-18
Publication date: 1997-02-06
Also published as: FR2736830A1; FR2736830B1

Abstract

A topical cosmetic skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion including 20-80 wt % of a water-insoluble greasy phase, 5-60 wt % of a surfactant, 0.1-30 wt % of an emulsifier with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of at least 8, QS of water to 100 %, and optionally one or more additives useful in cleansing compositions.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR BODY HYGIENE IN THE FORM OF AN OIL IN WATER EMULSION

The present invention relates to new washing and moisturizing compositions for personal hygiene in dermatology and / or cosmetology.

In addition to their washing power, these compositions must meet many criteria such as foaming properties, softness, low irritability, respect for the skin, hair and the ocular mucosa.

It will be recalled that the skin is composed of numerous layers of cells covering and protecting the protein fibers of keratin and collagen forming its skeleton. The outermost layer is called the stratum corneum, composed of a bundle of proteins 250 A in diameter, surrounded by a bilayer 80 A thick, itself formed of lipids and epidermal water. The washing power of compositions intended to be applied to the skin is in particular due to the action of anionic surfactants.

Nevertheless, the anionic surfactants can penetrate the stratum corneum and, by delipidation (that is to say by removal of the lipids composing the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the stratum corneum bilayer can cause dry, rough skin and, by acting on the epidermis, create irritation.

Ideal cleansing compositions should wash the skin gently, with mild or no irritation and without drying the skin, even after frequent washing. The majority of washing compositions, liquid or solid, do not respect the skin enough and fall short of these principles. In addition, these compositions do not deliver beneficial hydration during washing. Therefore, the use of body milk after washing is essential to overcome these drawbacks. There are indeed certain synthetic surfactants known for their softness. However, the majority of mild surfactant systems formulated to cleanse the skin have poor foaming properties compared to conventional soap.

The choice of a surfactant in a washing composition will therefore be a compromise between foaming power and respect for skin integrity. Softness will be obtained at the expense of foaming power and therefore the feeling of washing.

We therefore need a cleansing and moisturizing composition same time, easy to use for the consumer since it would be the same composition, single application.

However, such a composition is difficult to formulate due to this duality. Indeed, the washing components tend to be incompatible with the hydrating and superfatting components.

There are many washing compositions, capable of producing abundant, stable and good quality foam (compact). They are washing agents, capable of respecting the skin and the ocular mucosa and of restoring the hydrolipidic film thanks to the hydrating and superfatting properties. These products are designated by the term two in one shower gel (2-1 or 2 in 1) because of the cleansing and hydrating power they provide to the skin.

However, the majority of compositions of this type currently on the market are: a / detergent mixtures containing a superfatting agent

(ester or ethoxylated oil), hiding the dryness caused by the surfactants by a feeling of hydration coming from the superfatting agent depositing in film on the skin. b / a suspension or dispersion of an oily phase in an aqueous phase containing surfactants (patent WO 93/0976 of Richardson Wicks Inc., 9611-92). These are two incompatible phases, masked by a suspension agent delaying the phase shift.

In addition to the aforementioned drawback, there is the presence of suspending agents necessary for the stability of the product. The presence of such agents can be detrimental to the foaming power, and some of these products cited in patent WO 93/0976 are derivatives of alkanolamides which can cause the formation of nitrosamines in the presence of nitrosating agents.

The document WO-A-95 17163 describes a liquid foaming composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: a) an aqueous phase containing an anionic surfactant with high foaming power and a foaming surfactant which is gentle to the skin, b) 3 to 15% of an oily phase insoluble in water, c) an emulsifying system. The teaching of this document does not however make it possible to produce compositions with a high fat content.

The present invention is remarkable in that it is a true oil-in-water emulsion, stable, foaming and hydrating. Indeed, it has been found that the emulsion is the best compromise for bringing together a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, while respecting a balance between these two phases. It is, on the other hand, the best vehicle for hydration and the presence of oily micelles with a real interface, allows them to incorporate surfactants (for example fatty acids). The presence of surfactants present both in the aqueous phase, in the fatty phase and at the interface (emulsifiers) makes it possible to obtain a synergy of the foaming power during washing and to optimize the organoleptic characteristics of the foam. In addition, the presence of a large amount of fatty substances causes hydration of the skin and avoids the drying caused by the surfactants and rinsing.

This is why the object of the present invention is a new composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, making it possible to simultaneously solve the following two problems, namely:

1 - obtain a foaming power comparable to a soap or a conventional shower gel in the presence of a high content in fatty phase, which normally breaks the foam and,

2 - to be able to formulate an emulsion with surfactants which naturally tend to dissolve the fatty phase and consequently to break the emulsion.

According to a general embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises in percentage by weight:

- fatty phase insoluble in water 20 to 80% - surfactant 5 to 60%

- hydrophilic-lipophilic balance emulsifier

HLB greater than or equal to 8 0.1 to 30%

- water qs 100%

- optionally one or more additives useful in washing compositions.

The composition also comprises an basifying agent such as triethanolamine making it possible to adjust the pH between 5 and 8.

In the present description, the proportions of the surfactants are indicated in aqueous solution, it being understood that a surfactant is generally present by weight around 1/3 in the solution.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises in percentage by weight: - fatty phase 20 to 45%

- surfactants 5 to 50%

- hydrophilic-lipophilic balance emulsifier

HLB greater than or equal to 8 1 to 5% - water qs 100%

The presence of a high percentage of fatty phase in the present composition is responsible for skin hydration during washing and after rinsing.

This fatty phase is present in the form of droplets visible under the microscope characteristic of the oily phase of an oil in water emulsion.

By the expression "insoluble in water" is meant that at least 5 g of fatty phase does not dissolve in 100 g of water at 25 ° C.

A wide variety of oily components, emollients and mixtures of components can represent the fatty phase of the present invention. It can be, without being limiting, hydrocarbons such as paraffin, branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane or mineral oils.

Mention may be made of fatty acid esters such as dioctyl adipate, dibutyladipate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate and their equivalents, cholesterol and its derivatives such as esters and ethers cholesterol, vegetable oils and their derivatives such as sunflower, jojoba, soybean, almond oil, polyglycols of variable polarity such as polyethylene glycol, silicones such as dimethicones, cyclomethicones, octyldimethicones, waxes such as wax bees, silicone waxes, solid paraffin, fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol.

Finally, mention may be made of other components which can enter the fatty phase such as natural and synthetic triglycerides, lanolin, lanolin derivatives and its esters, as well as animal fats and all synthetic fats and oils as well as mixtures of these components.

Examples of these components are mentioned in U.S. Patent No. 4,919,934 to Deckner et al., Of April 24, 1990.

Preferably, the fatty phase is chosen from fatty acid esters, aliphatic fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, ethers of ethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol), in particular from 5 to 10 units, preferably 6 to 8.

Also preferred are mixtures of aliphatic alcohols and polyethylene glycol. The surfactants suitable for producing the compositions according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants, as well as amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, betaines or fatty acids. Among the anionic surfactants, non-limiting mention may be made of alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated or not, alkyl ether sulfates, sarcosinates and derivatives, paraffins sulfonates, acylated amino acids, sulfosuccinates, alkylnaphthalenes sulfonates aldolized. Among the amphoteric surfactants there may be mentioned, in a limiting manner, cocoyl amido propyl dimethyl glycine, sodium carboxymethyl tallow polypropylamine, cocoamphoglycinate, cocoamphodiacetate, alkyl amido propyl dimethyl amino polypeptide.

Among the nonionic surfactants, non-limiting mention may be made of ethoxylated alkylphenols, in particular ethoxylated octyl or nonyl phenol, derivatives of ethoxylated fatty substances in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acids, polyol esters and ethers such as sorbitan, sugar, glycerol esters or glucose ethers, glucosides or alkyl polyglucosides. Among the betaines, non-limiting mention may be made of alkyl betaines and alkyl amidobetaines, such as lauryl betaine, lauryl amidobetaine, lauryl hydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryl amido hydroxy sulfobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine.

Among the fatty acids, non-limiting mention may be made of fatty acids having a number of carbon atoms from 6 to 32, preferably lauric, myristic, paimitic and stearic acids.

All the above-mentioned surfactants can be present alone or as a mixture.

However, it is preferable that the surfactant system consists of an anionic surfactant because it is highly frothy in an oily medium and of a co-surfactant chosen from betaines, amphoteric surfactants, surfactants non-ionic or fatty acids.

It is preferable that the surfactant system includes a fatty acid to promote foaming. In addition, the structure of the emulsion and the emollient appearance are favored.

The role of the emulsifier is to be located at the interface. Mention may be made, among emulsifiers, of sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, polysorbates, fatty alcohols poly ethoxylates, polyethoxylated fatty acids and their esters, mono-, di- and triglycerides which may be ethoxylated, such as ethoxylated glyceryl cocoate, in particular heptaethoxylate; sugars and their derivatives, nonionic surfactants. Mention will in particular be made of emulsifiers which have one or more free hydroxyl functions, among which mention will be made of glycerol monostearate, sorbitan stearate, the cocoate of a sugar such as sucrose cocoate, isosorbide monolaurate, glucoside cetarate , sucrose distearate, decylglucoside, propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl cocoate, heptaethoxylated glyceryl cocoate.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise additional compounds such as viscosifying agents, the percentage of which is between 0 and 10% in order to optimize the visual appearance of the emulsion, these viscosifying agents will be chosen in particular from gelling agents. mineral, vegetable, synthetic or cellulose derivatives, in particular gum derivatives such as Guar gum.

It can also contain between 0 and 20% of humectants and / or moisturizers. These humectants and / or moisturizers can be chosen from the following group:

- urea, guanidine, glycolic acid and glycolates (especially ammonium and quaternary ammonium salts), lactic acid and lactates, polyhydric alcohols such as sorbitol, glycerol, hexanetiol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sugars, in particular glucose, sugar derivatives and especially glucose derivatives, panthenol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide monoethanolamine.

These agents can be present alone or in mixtures.

The compositions according to the invention may also include film-forming polymers. These film-forming polymers are well known for having a beneficial effect on the skin and the hair and a restructuring power of the foam. Preferably, they are of cationic or nonionic origin, but they can be optionally anionic and amphoteric. Among these film-forming polymers, there may be mentioned:

- homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic and methacrylic acid,

- cellulose resins, - copolymers of dimethyl dialkylammonium chloride and acrylic acid,

- homopolymers of dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride,

- cationic polyalkykenes and ethoxy polyalkylene imines,

- cationic and nonionic polysaccharides,

- quaternized silicones.

Other substances may also be added such as oat derivatives, in particular powders or hydroglycolic extracts. We can add products of natural origin, vitamins or their derivatives such as ascorbic acid, vitamin E, tocopherol acetate; thickeners, carboxylic polymers, in particular carbomers, emollients, preservatives, antiseptics, antibiotics and / or antimocrobials, "anti-acne" for example resorcinol and salicylic acid, antioxidants, soothing and healing agents of the skin such as aloe vera extracts, allantoin, chelating and sequestering agents, agents modifying the organoleptic characters such as perfumes, essential oils, dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents, lakes, soluble, water-soluble silicone waxes. A preferred composition comprises in percentage by weight:

- Sodium laurethsulfate 15 to 25

- Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 10 to 20

- Cocamidopropylbetaine 3 to 7

- Myristic acid 3 to 7 - Octyldodecanol 5 to 15

- Heptaethoxylated glyceryl cocoate 3 to 7

- Glycerol monostearate 0.5 to 2

- Thickener 2 to 8

- Moisturizing 0.5 to 2 - Other additives 0 to 2

- water qs

The invention also relates to a process for obtaining a composition according to the invention, characterized in that, in the presence of water, the surfactant (s) is mixed with the emulsifier at an appropriate temperature, of the order from 70 to 80 ° C., an emulsion of the fatty phase is made in the mixture obtained, at an appropriate temperature of the order of 70 to 80 ° C., the water-soluble additives and the agents are optionally added to the mixture of surfactants viscosants. Several other substances such as perfumes can be added once the emulsion is obtained.

The examples which follow are intended to illustrate the invention without in any way limiting its scope. The components are identified by their chemical name or INCI.

Example 1

Laurylethoxylated sodium sulfate 1 to 50% sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 1 to 50% Triethanolamine q sp pH 5 to 8%

Water qs

Preservatives qs

Myristic acid 0.5 to 5%

Decyle oleate 0.5 to 20% Octyl dodecanol 0.5 to 20%

Dioctyl adipate 0.5 to 20%

Glyceryl monostearate and sodium lauryl sulfate 1 to 5%

Example 2

Laurylethoxylated sodium sulfate 1 to 50%

Diethanolamine cocamide 1 to 50%

Soda qs pH 5 to 8%

Water qs Conservatives psp

Stearic acid 0.5 to 5%

Soybean oil 0.1 to 25%

Carbomer 0.01 to 1%

Sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate 1 to 20%

Example 3

Sodium lauryl sulfate 1 to 30%

Lauroyl sarcosine 1 to 10% Cocamidopropylbetaine 1 to 5%

Triethanolamine qs pH 5 to 8%

Water qs Preservatives qs 0.1 to 5% diethanolamine lauramide

Guarhydroxypropyl triammonium chloride 0.01 to 5%

Myristic acid 0.5 to 5% PEG-7 and glycerol cocoate 0.5 to 20%

Isosorbide Laurate 0.5 to 20%

Glycerol monostearate 0.01 to 10%

Example 4 Disodium cocoamphodipropionate. . . . 0.1 to 50%

Triethanolamine qs pH 5 to 8%

Water qs

Preservatives qs

Lauric acid 0.1 to 5% Fluid petroleum jelly 0.1 to 20%

Isopropyl palmitate 0.1 to 20%

Cetaryl glucoside 0.5 to 15%

EXAMPLE 5 Sodium Laurethsulfate 1 to 50%

Sodium lauryl sulfate 1 to 50%

Diethanolamine cocamide 1 to 5%

Paimitic acid 0.1 to 5%

Water qs Preservatives qs

Triethanolamine qs pH 5 to 8%

Dibutyl adipate 0.5 to 20%

Sucrose distearate 0.5 to 20%

Example 6

Decyl glucoside 1 to 50%

Lauric acid 0.5 to 6%

Triethanolamine qs pH 5 to 8%

Water qs Preservatives qs

Dimethiconecopolyol 0.05 to 5% Cetaryl alcohol 0.1 to 5%

Sodium lauryl sulfate and cetearyl sulfate 0.5 to 20%

Glycerol 0.5 to 10%

Example 7

Lauryl amido betaine 1 to 50%

Triethanolamine qs pH 5 to 8% Ricinoleic acid 0.5 to 20%

Water qs

Preservatives qs

Lanolin 0.1 to 20%

Isopropyl isostearate 0.1 to 20% Propylene glycol monostearate 0.1 to 20%

Example 8

Laurylethoxylated sodium sulfate 1 to 50%

Triethanolamine qs pH 5 to 8% Myristic acid 0.5 to 20%

Water qs

Preservatives qs

Isopropyl myristate 0.5 to 20%

Glycerol monococoate 0.5 to 20% Glycerol monostearate 0, 1 to 20%

Example 9

Sodium laureth sulfate 20%

Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 15% Cocamidopropyl betaine 5%

Myristic acid 5%

Octyldodecanol 10%

Glyceryl cocoate heptaethoxylated 5%

0.25% triethanolamine 1% glycerol monostearate

Isohexadecane 5%

Lauramide diethanolamine 4%

Glycerol 1% Other additives 0.75% water 28%

Comparative test The present invention (Example 9) is compared with three commercial products, respectively: product A: a conventional shower gel, product B: a false foaming emulsion based on foaming surfactants and superfatted at less than 5%, - product C: suspension or dispersion of oily compounds whose oil percentage is at most 10%:

The height of the foam is successively measured with a graduated cylinder with distilled water at 20 ° C after 30 seconds and 3 minutes. The results are indicated in attached FIG. 1 and demonstrate the higher foaming power of the composition according to the invention:

Tolerance is also measured by the primary skin irritation index in rabbits.

The results are shown in Figure 2 attached and demonstrate the weak irritant effect of the composition according to the invention vis-à-vis the three comparative compositions.

The local tolerance is also evaluated by the Het Cam test at concentrations of 1%, 5% and 10% respectively.

The results are shown in Figure 3 attached and demonstrate the weak irritant effect of the compositions according to the invention vis-à-vis the three comparative compositions.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for personal hygiene in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising in percentage by weight:

- fatty phase insoluble in water 20 to 80% - surfactant 5 to 60%

- hydrophilic-lipophilic balance emulsifier

HLB greater than or equal to 8 0.1 to 30%

- water qs 100% optionally one or more additives useful in washing compositions.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises in percentage by weight: fatty phase 20 to 45%

- surfactants 5 to 50% - hydrophilic-lipophilic balance emulsifier

HLB greater than or equal to 8 1 to 5% water qs 100%

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises one or more substances chosen from the group consisting of aliphatic fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, silicones, waxes , fatty acids and their esters, cholesterol and cholesterol esters and ethers, paraffins, polyglycols.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises one or more substances chosen from the group consisting of fatty acid esters, fatty aliphatic alcohols, vegetable oils, polyethylene glycols.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises one or more substances chosen from the group consisting of mixtures of aliphatic alcohols and polyethylene glycol of 5 to 10 units.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the surfactant is an anionic surfactant optionally combined with one or more surfactants chosen from the group consisting of betaines, amphoterics, nonionics, fatty acids.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the anionic surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl sulfates ethoxylated or not, - alkyl ethers sulfates, sarcosinates and derivatives, paraffins sulfonates, acylated amino acids, sulfosuccinates, aldolized alkylnaphthalene sulfonates.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the associated surfactant comprises a fatty acid.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting of sorbitan esters, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, polysorbates, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty acids and their esters, ethoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides, sugars and their derivatives.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting of compounds having one or more free hydroxyl functions.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting of glycerol monostearate, sorbitan stearate, the cocoate of an ose such as sucrose cocoate, isosorbide monolaurate , glucoside cetearate, sucrose distearate, decylglucoside, propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl cocoate, ethoxylated glyceryl cocoate.

12. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that it comprises in percentage by weight:

- Sodium laurethsulfate 15 to 25

- Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 10 to 20

- Cocamidopropylbetaine 3 to 7

- Myristic acid 3 to 7 - Octyldodecanol 5 to 15

- Heptaethoxylated glyceryl cocoate 3 to 7

- Glycerol monostearate 0.5 to 2

- Thickener 2 to 8

- Moisturizing 0.5 to 2 - Other additives 0 to 2

- water qs

13. Cosmetic composition for personal hygiene according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it simultaneously has cleaning, foaming, moisturizing and lipid-replenishing properties.