WO1994005171A1

WO1994005171A1 - Garment and method for its manufacture

Info

Publication number: WO1994005171A1
Application number: PCT/NL1992/000150
Authority: WO
Inventors: Froukje Kooistra
Original assignee: Froukje Kooistra
Priority date: 1992-08-31
Filing date: 1992-08-31
Publication date: 1994-03-17
Also published as: CA2117261A1; JPH07500885A; EP0615412A1

Abstract

Garment, in particular shirt, blouse, smock and the like, which is worn in the trousers or in the skirt, and, in order to prevent the slipping out of trousers or skirt, is provided at its underedge with a hip-fitting piece of elastic material. Preferably, the hip-fitting piece is of circular-knitted tricot fabric, having at the underedge a fixed fastening. The connection between hip-fitting piece (9) and upper piece (8) has been made with the aid of a special stitch (10), such as a flatlock stitch, wherein possibly one or more elastomeric yarns (11) can be incorporated.

Description

Garment and method for its manufacture

The invention relates to a garment, notably blouse, shirt, smock and the like, as is usually worn in the skirt or trousers at waist level. During daily movements it is found in practice that garments, which are worn in the trousers or skirt normally cannot possibly remain fitting correctly. This is corrected many times a day by the relative wearer. This unappetizing presentation is often annoying, especially in the service sector, parti¬ cularly when uniforms or sportswear are concerned. When the upper clothing is being worn over the trousers or the skirt, this does not give a fine silhou¬ ette.

In searching a certain solution several firms make notably the blouses already somewhat longer, but thereby often bumps and lu bs are visible through the skirt or trousers, particularly when bowing, what is not a fine view either.

With the invention it is intended to provide a garment which is composed in such a way, that the slip- ping out of the skirt or trousers during the daily move¬ ments is counteracted and which at the same time does not show any silhouetting under the skirt or the trousers.

In accordance with the invention this is achieved in that a garment of the kind as described in the preamble is characterized by an overwidth beyond the waist, under which a hip-fitting piece of elastic material, preferably of circular knitted tricot fabric is connected, by means of a connection of overwidth and hip-fitting piece with the aid of a special stitch such as flatlock stitch, overlook stitch, overcover stitch and other twin εtitchings, whereas the lower edge of the hip-fitting piece is provided with a fixed fastening.

The overwidth is required to ensure that the hip- fitting piece does not show visibly above the trousers or skirt during the daily movements.

In conformity with the size of the garment, the tricot hip-fitting piece is knitted in a hip-fitting and sufficiently elastic manner. This gives the garments a feeling of pleasantness and comfort, which with the indicated stitches provides a flexible connection between the upper part and the hip- fitting piece.

The hip-fitting piece can be circular-knitted with an equal diameter, but in another embodiment be designed as a strip showing certain bulging, wherein the differen¬ ce in girth between waiste and hip averages 30 cm. This is especially meant for the ladies' sizes.

A hip-fitting piece can also be cut, so that seams are created wherein the fashion aspect may play a part.

To maintain the shape of the hip-fitting piece, preferably one or more elastic yarns are incorporated in the lower edge of the hip-fitting piece. For children and gentlemen these then provide a good modelling of the garment. During the accomplishment of the hip-fitting piece this finishing can be knitted in unvisibly, without giving an annoying thickening. Preferably, the elastic yarn consists of elastomeric material or at least con¬ tains same. For the hip-fitting piece a choice can be made from various textile materials, such as cotton, wool, silk, synthetic yarns as viscose and/or mixtures thereof.

For influencing the outer appearance of the hip- fitting piece use can be made of various yarn thicknes- ses, stitch sizes, whereas further various types of knittings can be applied, such as 1:1 ribs, 2:2 ribs, Jacquard patterns and the like.

The invention also relates to a method for the manufacture of a garment, composed of an upper part, which in according with the invention is provided with a certain overwidth, to the lower edge of which an elastic hip-fitting piece is connected. In accordance with a further development of this method one or more elastic parting threads can be knitted in during the manufacture of the hip-fitting piece.

In order to obtain a perfect cut with the method for the manufacture of a garment in accordance with the invention an elastromeric thread can be inserted in connecting the upper part to the hip-fitting piece under the flatlock stitch.

Alternatively with a method in accordance with the invention for the manufacture of a garment consisting of an upper part which is provided with a certain overwidth, to the lower edge of which an elastic hip-fitting piece is connected, the hip-fitting piece may be manufactured- with or without seams and stitchings, depending on the sizes and the fashion influences of the garment. The invention may be applied to ladies', men's, gentlemen's and children's clothing, and further to workclothes, sportswear, uniforms, leisure clothing and the like.

In the following the invention will be illustrated with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Figures 1 and 2 show circular-knitted hip-fitting pieces with equal diameter, and circular-knitted hip- fitting pieces with variable diameter respectively.

Figure 3 shows hip-fitting pieces of different lengths.

Figure 4 shows the difference in dimension between the lower edge of the upper garment and the circular- knitted hip-fitting pieces to be connected thereto.

Figure 5 shows the incorporation of an elastomeric thread under a flatlock stitch which forms the connection between overwidth and hip-fitting piece.

Figure 6 shows that the upper part has sufficient overwidth to ensure that the tricot does not show visibly above the trousers or the skirt.

Figure 7 shows a blouse with a hip-fitting piece, connected thereunder whereas Figure 8 shows the same blouse, whereby the hip-fitting piece is now covered entirely by the trousers.

The hip-fitting pieces can be fabricated in various ways, they may be circular-knitted with equal diameter, as Figure 1 shows, or be circular-knitted with variable diameter as shown in Figure 2. The difference in girth between waist and hip averages 30 cm.

Although this is not shown, the hip-fitting pieces may alternatively be cut, so that seams are created, wherein the fashion aspect may play a part.

As the Figures 1 and 2 show, the circular-knitted hip-fitting piecess (l) , (2) , (3) respectively, may be knitted with parting threads (4) , (5) respectively the¬ rein, so that the hip-fitting pieces may be separated and have obtained a fixed fastening.

In order to maintain the shape of the hip-fitting piecesε, preferably an elastomeric yarn is incorporated in their lower edges. During the accomplishment of the hip-fitting pieces this finishing incorporation can be knitted in unvisibly, without giving an annoying thicke¬ ning. The length of the hip-fitting pieces (1, 2, 3) can be variable, as Figure 3 shows with a shirt (6) , and yet be sufficiently long to prevent them from producing a disturbing image of "sit" through the skirt or trousers. The length is preferably at least 18 cm. In Figure 4 the difference in width between the lower edge of the skirt (6) and the tubular hip-fitting piece (1) is visible, whereby the line (7) indicates the upper edge of the trousers or skirt.

The hip-fitting pieces may vary in weight by using various textile materials, such as cotton, wool, silk, synthetic yarns as viscose and/or mixtures.

The outer appearance of the hip-fitting pieces may turn out differently, by applying various yarn thickenes- ses, stitch sizes, and further by applying various knit¬ tings, such as 1:1 ribs, 2:2 ribs, Jacquard patterns and the like.

To obtain a perfect cut, it is necessary to incorpo- rate an elastomeric thread (11) in the connection of an upper part (8) to the hip-fitting piece (9) , preferably under the flatlock stitch (10) , as is visible in Figure 5.

Figure 6 shows a shirt (12) with cylindrical hip- fitting piece (13) of circular-knitted tricot fabric provided thereunder. It is clearly visible that the upper part, viz. the shirt (12), has sufficient overwidth, so that care is taken that the tricot of the hip-fitting piece (13) does not show (visibly) above the trousers or skirt (line 14) .

On comparing Figures 7 and 8 it appears that the hip-fitting piece (20) tightly fits the hips and the hip- fitting piece can easily be worn under the trousers (21) of skirt. The application of the measure in accordance with the invention results in that flaps hanging loose and lumps being visible through skirt or trousers are things of the past for good. Moreover, the upper garment provided with a tricot hip-fitting piece gives a feeling of pleasantness to the wearer. The garment cannot hang loosely because of the ap¬ plication of an elastomeric thread in the applied connec¬ tion, preferably the flatlock stitch, as Figure 5 shows.

Another advantage of the application of the inventi¬ on is that hanging loosely at the lower edge of the hip- fitting piece is prevented by applying here elastomeric yarns. This can be done either during the manufacture of the hip-fitting piece or afterwards.

Another advantage of the application of the inventi¬ on is the fashion aspect, the garment is trend-following, masculine, feminine, elegant, sporting, sexy and the like.

Furthermore, the garment is warmth-insulating round the hips, consequently an aspect of health. The psychological effect of figure correction should not be lost sight of.

As the garment also looks already attractive on the hanger at point of sales it promotes the sales. The silhouette and the fit of the wearer are promo¬ ted by the use of elastomeric yarn under the preferred flatlock stitch of the connection. With respect to the obvious solution to design the blouses for example some¬ what longer, the proposal in accordance with the inter- vention does not cause an increase of costs worth mentio¬ ning.

Although in the preamble notably blouse, shirt, smock and the like have been mentioned as examples of a garment to which the invention can be applied, the inven- tion is not limited to same, but may be applied to sweat¬ ers, pullovers or lingerie with- a like effect.

Claims

C L A I M S

1. Garment, notably blouse, shirt, smock and the like, as is usually worn in the skirt or trousers at waist level, characterized by an overwidth beyond the waist, under which a hip-fitting piece of elastic materi- al, preferably of circular- knitted tricot fabric is connected, by means of a connection of overwidth and hip- fitting piece with the aid of a special stitch such as flatlock stitch, overlook stitch, overcover stitch and other twin stitchings, whereas the lower edge of the hip- fitting piece is provided with a fixed fastening.

2. Garment in accordance with claim 1, characterized in that the hip-fitting piece is designed as a strip sho¬ wing a certain bulging, whereby the difference in girth between waist and hip averages 30 cm.

3. Garment in accordance with claim l or 2, charac¬ terised in that one or more elastic yarns are incorpora¬ ted in the lower edge of the hip-fitting piece.

4. Garment is accordance with one or more preceding claims, characterized in that one or more elastic yarns are incorporated in the connecting seam between overwidth and hip-fitting piece.

5. Garment in accordance with claim 3 and/or 4, characterized in that the elastic yarns consist of elas¬ tomeric material.

6. Garment in accordance with claim 2, characterized in that the hip-fitting piece is circular-knitted with variable diameter.

7. Garment in accordance with any of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the hip-fitting piece a choice is made from various textile materials such as cotton, wool, silk, synthetic yarns as viscose and/or mixtures thereof.

8. Garment in accordance with one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that for influencing the outer appearance of the hip-fitting piece various yarn thicknesses, stitch sizes are applied.

9. Garment in accordance with one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that various types of knittings are applied, such as 1:1 ribs, 2:2 ribs, Jac- quard patterns or the like.

10. Method for the manufacture of a garment in accordance with one or more of the claims 1 to 9, consis¬ ting of an upper part, characterized in that this upper part is provided with a certain overwidth, to the lower edge of which an elastic hip-fitting piece is connected.

11. Method in accordance with claim 10, characteri- zed in that during the manufacture of the hip-fitting piece one or more separating threads are knitted in.

12. Method in accordance with claim 11, for the manufacture of a garment in accordance with claim 5, characterized in that in order to obtain a perfect cut an elastomeric thread is incorporated in the connection of the upper part to the hip-fitting piece, under the flat¬ lock stitch.

13. Method for the manufacture of a garment consis¬ ting of an upper part which is provided with a certain overwidth, to the lower edge of which an elastic hip- fitting piece is connected in accordance with claim 10, characterized in that the hip-fitting piece may be manu¬ factured with or without seams and stitchings, depending on the sizes and the fashion influences.

AMENDED CLAIMS

[received by the International Bureau on 25 November 1993 (25.11.93); original claim 7 cancelled; original claims 1-3 amended; claims 8-13 amended and renumbered as claims

7-12 other claims unchanged (2 pages)]

1. Garment, notably blouse, shirt, smock and the like, as is usually worn in the skirt or trousers at waist level, characterized by an overwidth beyond the waist, under which a hip-fitting piece of circular- knitted tricot fabric is connected, by means of a connection of overwidth an hip-fitting piece with the aid of a special stitch such as flatlock stitch, overlock stitch, overcover stitch or other twin stitchings, whereas the lower edge of the hip-fitting piece is provided with a fixed fastening.

2. Garment in accordance with claim 1, characterized in that the hip-fitting piece is knitted in form as a strip showing a certain bulging, whereby the difference in girth between waist and hip averages 30 cm. 3. Garment in accordance with claim 1 or 2, characterized in that one or more elastic yarns are incorporated in the fixed fastening of the hip-fitting piece.

4. Garment in accordance with one or more preceding claims, characterized in that one or more elastic yarns are incorporated in the connection seam between overwidth and hip-fitting piece.

5. Garment in accordance with claim 3 and/or 4, characterized in that the elastic yarns consist of elastomeric material.

7. Garment in accordance with one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that for influencing the outer appearance of the hip-fitting piece various yarn thickenesses, stitch sizes are applied.

8. Garment in accordance with one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that various types of knittings are applied, such as 1:1 ribs, 2:2 ribs, Jacquard patterns or the like. 9. Method for the manufacture of a garment in accordance with one or more of the claims 1 to 8, consisting of an upper part, characterized in that this upper part is provided with a certain overwidth, to the lower edge of which an elastic hip-fitting piece is connected.

10. Method in accordance with claim 9, characterized in that during the manufacture of the hip-fitting pieces one or mor separating threads are knitted in. 11. Method in accordance with claim 10, for the manufacture of a garment in accordance with claim 5, characterized in that in order to obtain a perfect cut an elastomeric thread is incorporated in the connection of the upper part to the hip-fitting piece, under the flatlock stitch.

12. Method for the manufacture of a garment consisting of an upper part which is provided with a certain overwidth, to the lower edge of which an elastic hip-fitting piece is connected in accordance with claim 9, characterized in that the hip-fitting piece may be manufactured with or without seams and stitchings, depen¬ ding on the size and the fashion influences.

STATEMENT UNDER ARTICLE19

In order to elucidate the present invention over the cited prior art, first of all is observed that the hip-fitting piece is of circular-knitted tricot fabric. It should be of such a quality that is retains its original shape and size after being washed. The connection of the hip-fitting piece to the upper part of the garment is made by special stitching, as stated in claim 1.

It is believed that the technique of these special stitchings is of recent date, and did not yet exist at the time the citations 1, 2 and 3 were filed.

Referring to the citations separately, the following observations are made:

- FR,A,703 080 [1930] :

The belt 2 is not knitted in shape, is not-modelled. It has the effect of a blouson to be worn over other garment. The band is too short to provide any comfort. The connection is not flexible compared with the technique of the present available stitching machines.

- US,A,2 609 541 [1949] :

The band 16 is not knitted, but of woven fabric, whereagainst elastic bands have been stitched to provide shirring. It has no relation with a hip-fitting piece that can be worn within the trousers, it is in fact a blouson. Moreover the band is too short.

- US,A,1 987 954 [1933]:

Shows no separate fastening, but relates to a waistband 4 for modelling the upper garment by means of stitched-in creases or tucks (also formed on the cuffs) .

- GB,A,2 076 634 [1980] is indicated as Category A. It relates to circular knitting and separating-threads to obtain blanks from which underwear can be cut.

The described circular knitting on a cylindrical knitting machine of this citation is only possible with a right and a left edge, thus by knitting one plain and one purl.

Summarizing, it is believed that the present invention provides a new and useful solution to the problems stated in the introductory part of the specification. The latest development of garments according to the present invention have a hip-fitting piece of circular-knitted tricot fabric, double-bedded and by means of narrowing and/or stitch-changes knitted into shape, the underedge having a fixed fastening.

The cheaper hip-fitting pieces are preferably of the same length at front and back. The more luxury hip-fitting pieces are preferably shorter at the front; at the back they may be longer, if so required with pressed-in buttlocks for better comfort. Compare the enclosed sketch of these embodiments.

The connection between hip-fitting piece and upper part of the garment is made by means of special sewing machines for overlook, flatlock or other twin-stitchings, wherein one or more elastomeric yarns can be incorporated.