WO1993000467A1

WO1993000467A1 - Automatic spade gusset seaming apparatus

Info

Publication number: WO1993000467A1
Application number: PCT/GB1992/001114
Authority: WO
Inventors: John Charles Humphreys
Original assignee: H. Flude & Co. (Hinckley) Ltd.
Priority date: 1991-06-20
Filing date: 1992-06-19
Publication date: 1993-01-07
Also published as: GB9113372D0

Abstract

An apparatus for automatically inserting a spade gusset into an opened seam in panti-hose supports the panti-hose on a carrier (16) which comprises a head (28) onto which the panti-hose is drawn and an inner support means (38) displaceable within an opening in the head for gripping the fabric piece in the opening with the periphery of the fabric piece overlapping the periphery of the opening of the panti-hose. The fabric piece (84) is loaded onto a gusset loading and transporting device (70) which is moved between a first, remote position and a second position to bring the fabric piece into the opening in the carrier head. The fabric piece is in tubular form supported on a support (78) and is opened along a rear side by a cutter (90) so that the device (70) can then be moved away from the carrier. The edges of the panti-hose opening are mechanically seamed to the fabric piece while the carrier is moved relative to a seaming machine to seam the gusset to the panti-hose.

Description

Title: Automatic Spade Gusset Seami q Apparatus

The present invention relates to automatic spade gusset seaming apparatus.

A particular difficulty experienced in the operation of machines for automatically inserting spade gussets in panti-hose garments has been the accurate positioning of the gusset fabric piece itself in relation to the rest of the garment. In conventional operations the gusset piece is pre-cut to the desired shape in a separate operation. The piece is then placed by an operator correctly onto a receptacle designed to hold it and then position it correctly against the edges of the garment to which it is to be attached. This is a time consuming operation reducing the efficiency of the machine overall.

The present invention seeks to provide an improved apparatus for automatically inserting spade gussets in panti-hose garments.

Accordingly, the present invention provides an apparatus for automatically inserting a spade gusset in panti-hose comprising:

a carrier for supporting the panti-hose about an opened seam thereof and including means operable to adjust the profile of said opened seam, said carrier comprising an elongate member having a substantially gusset-shaped opening for receiving a fabric piece forming said gusset and inner support means displaceable relative to said member for gripping the fabric piece so as to enable the opening in the garment and the periphery of the fabric piece to be brought into overlapping relationship;

means for mounting said fabric piece;

means for cutting said fabric piece to form said gusset, said mounting means being operable to present said fabric piece to said inner support means; and a seaming machine for seaming the gusset and the garment together, said carrier being displaceable relative to said machine to bring the machine into engagement with the garment and gusset to enable the gusset to be seamed to the garment.

The present invention is further described hereinafter by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic plan view of a preferred form of apparatus according to the present invention;

Figure 2 is a perspective view of a carrier of the apparatus of Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a more detailed view of the carrier of Figure 2 with a pair of panti-hose loaded on the carrier;

Figure 4 is a plan view of a gusset loading and transporting device of the apparatus of Figure 1 showing the carrier of Figure 2 positioned in relation to the loading and transporting device;

Figures 5 & 6 show the loading and transporting device of Figure 4 in various stages of its operation.

Figure 7 is a partial section on the line X-X of Figure 4 showing the gusset loading and transporting device of Figure 4 in an intermediate pivoted position;

Figure 8 is a view similar to that of Figure 7 showing the loading and transporting device of Figure 4 in engagement with the carrier of Figure 2;

Figure 9 is a further view similar to that of Figure 8 at a further stage in the operation of the apparatus;

Figure 10 is a front elevation of the carrier of Figure 2 at a gusset fabric trimming station; Figure 11 is a side elevation of the trimming station of Figure 10;

Figure 12 is a plan view of the trimming station of Figure 10; and

Figure 13 is a partial section through the carrier of Figure 2 at a sewing station showing machining of the gusset and panti- hose together.

Referring to the drawings, these show an apparatus for automatically inserting spade gussets in panti-hose garments.

Figure 1 is a diagrammatic plan view of a preferred form of apparatus 10 which comprises a number of panti-hose carriers 16, preferably 5, supported by way of radial arms 14 on a central turret 12 so as to be rotatable about the turret on a substantially vertical axis. The carriers 16 are equi-angularly spaced about the turret. During rotation each carrier in turn moves through a loading station 18, a gusset positioning and cutting station 20, a gusset fabric trimming station 22, a sewing station 24 and a removal or unloading station 26. At the loading station the body of a pair of panti-hose is turned inside out and drawn onto the carrier 16 with the seam correctly aligned. The carrier is then moved towards the gusset positioning station 20 whilst the seam of the panti-hose is opened from the front waistband along a required length as described later. At the gusset positioning and cutting station 20 a spade gusset is formed from a stocking body and clamped to the carrier, the gusset then being secured to the carrier with the open edge of the panti-hose body and the gusset edge in juxtaposition. The carrier is then moved into the gusset fabric trimming station 22 where the gusset fabric is trimzw.ed and then to the sewing station 24 where the gusset is seamed to the panti-hose body. Finally, the carrier is then moved to the unloading station 26 where the finished panti-hose is stripped from the carrier 16. Figure 2 is a perspective view of a carrier 16 without the panti- hose loaded and Figure 3 is a more detailed view of the carrier of Figure 2 with a pair of panti-hose loaded onto the carrier.

The carrier comprises an elongate, hollow head 28 having two planar parallel side panels 30 spaced apart to form an elongate opening 32 facing radially outwardly of the turret 12. The opening is generally shaped to conform with that of the gusset and although is shown curving along the axis of the opening the opening may be planer (flat) . The head is supported on a tubular shaft 34 extending from the turret, the shaft being rotatable about its longitudinal axis to pivot the head 28 in a substantially vertical plane about the shaft axis. The two side panels 30 are joined together at one end of the head 28 to provide a semi-circular end 36 to the opening with the shaft 34 and head 28 arranged relative to one another so that the shaft axis passes through the free end region of the head substantially concentric with the semi-circular opening end 36. This arrangement facilitates seaming of the gusset as is described further below. As is best seen in Figure 7 a plate 36 is rigidly mounted in the head 28 substantially co-planer with the opening. The plate 36 pivotally supports a plurality of needles 38 each of which has a head 40 held by the plate 36 in the manner of a ball joint to allow the needles to be pivotable freely about their heads 40. The needles 38 are spaced about the perimeter region of the plate 36.

Coaxially within the shaft 34 and passing through the plate 36 is a rod 42 which is slidable axially of the head 28 and carries a pin plate 44 slidable within the opening. The plate 44 has holes 46 through which the needles freely project. The holes 46 are positioned relative to the needle heads so that retraction of the plate 44 inwardly of the head pivots the needles from a position wherein their free ends are clear of the head and preferably projects slightly from the opening, into a position wherein the free ends of the needles abut the head side panels 30 inwardly of the opening. In use, the panti-hose body is turned inside out and stretched over the head 28 at the loading station 18 by an operator. The head has through holes 48 in the side panels 30 through which suction is applied. When the operator loads the panti-hose onto the head the legs are passed, one each side of the head, to be brought into close proximity to the openings 48. A downwards force acting via the suction on the legs assists the operator to place the panti-hose body more easily on the head 28 as shown in Figure 3. At this stage the head is in a vertical position and once the panti-hose has been loaded it is held in position by side clamps 50 and a top clamp 52. The clamps are pivoted into position to clamp the body between the clamps and the side panels 30. Each clamp comprises a clamp plate 54 which is movable both laterally of the axis of the shaft 34 and also are collectively movable axially along the outer face of the head to adjust the position of the panti-hose on the head. The side clamps 50 are opened and closed by means of a linkage 56 pivoted on a clamp plate 58 which is axially movable along the shaft 34 to open and close the clamps 50. The upper clamp 52 may be actuated separately from the side clamps by suitable pneumatic or mechanical means.

The head 28 also has two plates 56 slidably mounted on respective side plates 30 to enable adjustment of the length of the side plates 30 for supporting panti-hose of differing sizes.

The head is also provided with a laterally extending peg-like protrusion 60 which can be screwed into or out of the head to adjust its position. This is provided to take up any surplus of the fabric to enable an even placement of body fabric of the panti-hose around the head 28.

In use, once the head 28 comes to rest at the loading station 18 with the clamps 50, 52 in their open positions the operator loads a line-closed panti-hose onto the head. At this stage the shaft 24 is retracted to retract the pins 38 so that they offer no resistance to the body fabric of the panti-hose being loaded onto and around the head.

Once the panti-hose body is correctly positioned the clamps are pivoted into position to clamp the body between the clamps and the side panels 30.

Once the clamps have closed the head is then indexed in an anti¬ clockwise direction as seen in Figure 1 towards the gusset positioning and cutting station 20. During movement of the head towards the station 20 the head is rotated about the shaft 34 in an anti-clockwise direction as seen in Figures 2 and 3 into a horizontal position, this being achieved before the head moves into station 20. Once the head is horizontal, as its movement continues towards station 20 the waistband of the seam 62 of the body portion comes into contact with a hot-wire cutter 64 (Figure 7) which is preferably a substantially U-shaped heated wire arranged on its side and movably supported on a supporting bracket positioned outside the arcuate path of the head 28 so that the hot wire cutter 64 can be moved into and out of the path of the head. Before the head 28 reaches station 20 the hot-wire cutter 64 is moved into the path of the head aligned with the seam 66 of the panti-hose body so that as the head continues to move in an anti-clockwise direction the two heated arms of the wire "U" contact the front waistband of the body on respective sides of the seam 66. As movement of the head continues the hot¬ wire cutter cuts or burns out a strip of material containing the seam with as little of the body fabric as possible. Once the head reaches station 20 the hot wire cutter continues to move in a clockwise direction to remove the required length of seam to a point 68 on the seam. At this point the cutter is withdrawn, severing the strip of seam from the body. One or more suction tubes (not shown) are closely associated with the hot-wire cutter 64 in order to remove the cut seam portion.

The cutting out of the seam allows the panti-hose material originally stretched over the opening to relax. The clamps 50, 52 are then drawn back along the side plates 30 to draw the side edges of the opening adjacent to the side edges of the head opening. Once this is complete the movable pin plate 44 in the head is driven forward by the action of the shaft 42 to pivot the needles 38 away from the inner side wall of the head ready to receive the gusset.

Figures 4 to 6 show a gusset loading and transporting device 70 at station 20. The device 70 has a support bar 72 which is pivotable about a horizontal pivot axis adjacent one end between a horizontal position and a vertical position. An elongate, "U" shaped member 74 is secured to the support bar 72 and extends horizontally towards the loading station 18, such that it is pivotable with the support bar 72 between a horizontal plane and a vertical plane. The member 74 is curved adjacent the support bar 72 generally co-planar with the curved opening of the horizontal head 28 when the member 74 is in its vertical position.

Each arm 76 of the member 74 carries a flexible, tubular member 78, the two members 78 being secured together at their ends adjacent the support bar 72 by a movable cross member 80.

A presser plate 82 is also secured to the support bar 72, extending co-planer with the curved portion of the U-shaped member 74 but having a thickness less than that of the tubular members 78.

During operation of the apparatus the gusset loading device 70 may be loaded by the operator prior to loading of the head 28 at the loading station 18. At this point, the tubular members 78 are at their left most position as seen in Figures 4 and 5, ready to accept a stocking body portion 84 which is loaded onto the members 78 by the operator with a waistband 86 of the body portion adjacent the cross member 80. With the head 28 stationary at station 20 the cross member 80 is moved towards the support bar 72 to carry the tubular member 78 and therefore the body portion 84 to the right as shown in Figure 6. A sensing device 88 controls movement of the body portion 84 to level the waistband of the panti-hose on the head 28 with the waistband of the body portion 84.

When the two waistbands are aligned, the support bar 72 is pivoted from its position shown in Figure 6 into a vertical attitude and is moved inwardly to bring the body portion 84 against the opening in the head 28. Figure 7 shows the gusset loading and transporting device in an intermediate position during pivoting and Figure 8 shows the device in its upright position with the body portion 84 pressed against the opening in the head 28, as a result of which the pins 38 pierce the adjacent surface of the fabric of the body portion 84 (Figure 8). The presser plate 82 which is within the body portion 84 assists in pressing the fabric onto the needles 38.

The pi plate 44 in the head 28 is then retracted to force the tips of the needles 38 against the inner wall of the head and grip the fabric of the body portion 84. The needles 44 conveniently carry shoulders or other suitable stops adjacent their tips to prevent the fabric riding down the needles.

Once the fabric has been secured by the pins 38 a slide 88 carrying a hot wire cutter 90 is moved along the presser plate 82 from the right as seen in Figure 6, cutting through the fabric of the body portion 84 on the reverse side of the gusset loading and transporting device 70 to leave a gusset secured by the pins 38 to the head 28. Linked and just following behind the hot-wire cutter 90 is a suction tube (not shown) which receives and removes the cut of waist portion of the fabric. When this operation has been completed the gusset loading and transporting device 70 is moved away from the head 28 to leave the gusset fabric held in position on the head by the pins 38. The natural stretch of the fabric contributes to the fabric being secured on the head by the pins.

Figure 9 shows the body portion 84 having been cut to form a gusset 92 and also shows the panti-hose body having been drawn back from the opening of the head 28 by the action of the clamps 50, 52. The head 28, still horizontal, continues its movement towards the gusset fabric trimming station 22 whilst the gusset loading and transporting device 70 returns to its start position with the tubular members 78 moved towards the left hand end of the device as seen in Figure_^ 5 ready to receive the next body portion 84. The hot wire cutter for cutting out the seam of the panti-hose has also returned to its start position.

The gusset fabric trimming station 22 is shown in Figures 10 to 12 and has a suction head 202 having a slot 204 through which suction can be applied to the edges of the gusset fabric 92.

As the horizontal head approaches the station 22 the gusset fabric edge at the leading end of the head 28 comes under the influence of both the suction through the vertical slot 204 and an air jet from a nozzle 208 to cause the fabric at this end to extend outwardly in the manner of a flag on a flag pole. The head 28 is then stopped at station 22 and a hot-wire cutter 206 is moved inwardly to severe the surplus fabric and at the same time correctly shape the left hand end of the gusset fabric as seen in Figure 10. The surplus fabric is removed through the suction slot 204.

At this stage the clamps 50, 52 are moved towards the open end of the head 28 to bring the cut edge of the panti-hose body in juxtaposition with the edge of the gusset fabric supported by the pins 38. The head 28 is indexed either after or whilst this movement takes place towards the sewing station 24 and during movement of the head 28 to the station 24 the head is rotated about the shaft 34 through 180°.

Figure 13 shows the head at the sewing station 24 with a needle bar 302 of a seaming machine being shown with its twin needles (it may also be a single needle machine) about to penetrate the two juxtaposed edge layers of fabric to effect the seaming together of the gusset and the panti-hose body. The throat or needle plate 304 of the seaming machine around which the chain element of the stitch is formed needs to be close to the peripheral edge of the head 28.

As the head moves into the sewing station 24 the fabric begins to pass through the operating sewing machine, the carousel being indexed at a suitable speed synchronized to that of the sewing machine. A system of air jets and vacuum tubes 306 to 310 are provided to help control the fabric during sewing and the vacuum tube 308 removes the unwanted waste fabric trimmed by the trimming knives of the sewing machine. Movement of head 28 continues through the sewing station 24 while the sewing machine seams along one pair of overhanging side edges of the gusset^" and panti-hose body. However, when the sewing machine reaches the trailing end of the head at a position aligned with the axis of the shaft 34 movement of the head 28 through the sewing station stops and the shaft 34 then rotates the head through an angle of 180°. During this rotation sewing of the overhanging end edges of the fabric is effected, these edges extending in a substantially semi-circular path in conformity the semi-circular end of the head opening. Once pivoting of the head through 180° is completed rotation of the shaft 34 stops and movement of the head 28 through the sewing station 24 continues to effect seaming of the remaining pair of side edges of the gusset and panti-hose body to seam the gusset to the panti-hose by a single continuous seam.

As an alternative to horizontal movement of the head 28 to seam the side edges of the gusset and panti-hose body, the sewing machine itself may be movable horizontally about a radius whose centre is that of the vertical axis of the turret 12. In such case the head 28 need not be rotated through 180° during its movement from the gusset fabric trimming station 22 although such rotation is preferable. Once seaming is completed the sewing machine is moved back to its start position to receive the next approaching head 28 whilst the head holding the seamed garment is moved towards the unloading station 26, at the same time being rotated into a vertical attitude. The pins 38 and clamp mechanisms are also positioned to release the finished garment to allow the latter to be removed from the head 28 either by a mechanical or vacuum system or by a combination of both.

After removal of the finished_^ garment the head is then indexed to the loading station 18 to receive a new panti-hose body.

The various mechanisms mounted on the head 28 or head shaft 34 may be linked, where necessary, to roller devices which are acted upon by cams. The cams are coaxial with the turret 12 and are of circular or arcuate form. Figure 3 shows a cam roller 35 which is mounted on the shaft 34. The roller acts as a counter balance weight for the head 28 but also, with a cam surface 37, controls rotation of the head 28.

During movement of the carriers 16 around the turret 12 the individual movements of these are effected by cams as mentioned above whilst the various movements necessary at the stations, for example, by the hot-wire cutters are conveniently effected pneumatically, hydraulically or electro magnetically and maybe controlled by cam switches or suitable sensors.

As is mentioned previously, the head 28 need not necessarily be of a curved profile on its face, it may have a flat face profile. However, this would require certain compensating features in the operation of the mechanisms at the various stations.

It will be appreciated that the orientation of the apparatus 10 may also differ. For example, the axis of the turret 12 maybe arranged horizontally so that the carriers 16 are moved in a vertical plane with the stations arranged at appropriate locations also in a vertical plane.

Claims

1. An apparatus for automatically inserting a spade gusset in panti-hose comprising:

a carrier for supporting the panti-hose about an opened seam thereof and including means operable to adjust the profile of said opened seam, said carrier comprising an elongate member having a substantially gusset-shaped opening for receiving a fabric piece forming said gusset and inner support means displaceable relative to said member for gripping the fabric piece so as to enable the opening in the garment and the periphery of the fabric piece to be brought into overlapping relationship?

means for mounting said fabric piece;

means for cutting said fabric piece to form said gusset, said mounting means being operable to present said fabric piece to said inner support means;

and a seaming machine for seaming the gusset and the garment together, said carrier being displaceable relative to said machine to bring the machine into engagement with the garment and gusset to enable the gusset to be seamed to the garment.

2. Apparatus as claimed in claim 1 wherein said mounting means comprises support means for supporting said fabric piece and means for moving said support means between a first position spaced from said carrier and a second position for presenting said fabric piece to said gusset-shaped opening of said carrier elongate member.

3. Apparatus as claimed in claim 2 wherein said moving means comprises pivot means for pivoting said support means between said first position wherein said fabric piece is positioned remote from said gusset-shaped opening and a third position intermediate said first and second positions wherein said fabric piece is retained substantially parallel with the plane of said gusset-shaped opening, and further means for moving said support means between said third and second positions.

4. Apparatus as claimed in claim 2 or 3 wherein said support means comprises a support member for supporting said fabric piece;

drive means for moving said support member in a fourth direction substantially parallel to the longitudinal axis of said carrier elongate member; and

control means for controlling said drive means, said control means having means for monitoring the position of said fabric piece relative to the position of said carrier elongate member and controlling said drive means in dependence thereon.

5. Apparatus as claimed in claim 4 wherein said support means further comprises guide means for guiding movement of said support member in said fourth direction.

6. Apparatus as claimed in claim 5 wherein said guide means comprises a pair of parallel, elongate guide members and said support member is slidable on said guide members.

7. Apparatus as claimed in claim 6 wherein said gusset-shaped opening lies in a plane whose line of curvature longitudinally of the elongate member is convex, said guide members are curved along a portion thereof in a direction generally parallel with said plane, and said support members is flexible for movement along said curved portion of said guide means.

8. Apparatus as claimed in claim 6 or 7 wherein said support member comprises a pair of inter-connected tubular members slidable on said guide members.

9. Apparatus as claimed in any of claims 4 to 8 wherein said support member serves for supporting a fabric piece in tubular form over said support member, and wherein said apparatus further comprises drive means for moving said cutting mean^'s relative to said support member along a reverse side thereof remote from said carrier for opening said tubular form fabric piece.

10. Apparatus as claimed in claim 9 wherein said drive means is operable to move said cutting means when said support means is in said second position.

11. Apparatus as claimed in any of claims 2 to 10 wherein said mounting means further comprises a baking member for urging said fabric piece against said gusset-shaped opening.

12. Apparatus as claimed in any of claims 1 to 11 further comprising means for opening said panti-hose along said seam.

13. Apparatus as claimed in any of the preceding claims wherein said elongate member comprises a substantially tubular member over which the panti-hose is arranged to be drawn and wherein said inner support means is mounted internally of said elongate member.

14. Apparatus as claimed in claim 13 wherein said inner support means comprises a plurality of members displaceable between a first position wherein said members are arranged to penetrate the fabric piece material and a second position wherein said members retain said fabric piece material in its stretched condition with its periphery adjacent the periphery of said panti-hose opening.

15. Apparatus as claimed in claim 14 wherein each said member is a pivotable needle and in said second position said members grip the fabric piece material against the side walls of the elongate member forming said gusset-shaped opening.

16. Apparatus as claimed in any of the preceding claims wherein said means operable to adjust the profile of said opened seam comprises a plurality of clamping members arranged to clamp the garment adjacent its opened seam on said elongate member and wherein the position of said clamping members is adjustable to adjust the position of the clamped portions of the garment relative to the member opening.

17. Apparatus as claimed in any of the preceding claims wherein said carrier is rotatable about an axis perpendicular to the plane of the gusset-shaped opening in said elongate member for enabling relative movement of said carrier and said seaming machine for seaming the lower end of said fabric piece to said panti-hose.

18. An apparatus as claimed in any of the preceding claims comprising a carousel unit having a plurality of said carriers, each of which is supported thereby for movement about a substantially vertical axis of the unit successively through a loading station for receiving a panti-hose on said carrier, a fabric piece mounting and cutting station for presenting said fabric piece to the panti-hose opening and a sewing station for seaming the fabric piece into the panti-hose opening.

19. Apparatus for automatically inserting a spade gusset in panti-hoεe substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.