WO1991011984A1

WO1991011984A1 - Cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO1991011984A1
Application number: PCT/US1991/000758
Authority: WO
Inventors: Robert Francis Date; Graeme Douglas Telfer Smith; Richard John Cooke
Original assignee: The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date: 1990-02-17
Filing date: 1991-02-04
Publication date: 1991-08-22
Also published as: AU7303391A; GB9003666D0

Abstract

An aqueous foaming cosmetic composition comprising: (a) from 0.5 to 16 % of an imidazolinium amphoteric surfactant, (b) from 0.5 to 16 % of an amionoalkanoate or iminodialkanoate amphoteric surfacant, (c) optionaly up to 10 % anionic surfactant, and (d) a hydrophilic thickening agent; wherein the composition has a viscosity of at least 150 cps and a total surfactant concentration of from 1 % to 20 %, of which at least 50 % comprises the mixture of (a) and (b). The composition has improved foam stability, together with excellent cleansing performance and mildness. It is suitable for use as make-up and facial cleansers, foam bath, shower products, shampoos, etc.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, it relates to foaming cosmetic compositions suitable for cleansing the skin and/or the hair and which may be used, for example, in the form of make-up removal and facial cleansers, foam baths, shower products, shampoos etc.

Foaming cosmetic compositions must satisfy a number of criteria including cleansing power, foaming properties and mildness/low irritancy with respect to the skin, hair and the occular mucosae.

Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known

© o to be composed of 250 A protein bundles surrounded by 80 A thick layers. Anionic surfactants can penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum) , destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit the surfactant to interact with the keratin, creating irritafcά-on.

Ideal cosmetic cleansers should cleanse the skin or hair gently, causing little or no irritation without defatting and or drying the skin and without leaving skin taut after frequent use. Most lathering soaps, liquids and bars fail in this respect. Certain synthetic surfactants are known to be mild. However, a major drawback of most mild synthetic surfactant systems when formulated for skin cleansing is poor lather performance compared to the highest bar soap standards (bars which are rich in coconut soap and superfatted). On the other hand, the use of known high sudsing anionic surfactants with lather boosters can yield acceptable lather volume and quality. Unfortunately, however, the highest sudsing anionic surfactants are, in fact, poor in clinical skin mildness. Surfactants that are among the mildest, such as sodium lauryl glyceryl ether sulfonate, (AGS) , are marginal in lather. These two facts make the surfactant selection, the lather and skin feel benefit formulation process a delicate balancing act.

Rather stringent requirements for cosmetic cleansers limit the choice of surface-active agents, and final formulations represent some degree of compromise. Mildness is often obtained at the expense of effective cleansing, or lathering may be sacrificed for either mildness, product stability, or both.

Thus a need exists for foaming cosmetic compositions which will produce a foam which is abundant, stable and of high quality -(-compactness), which are effective skin and hair cleansers and which are very mild to the skin, hair and occular mucosae. The subject of the present invention is a foaming cosmetic composition suitable for cleansing the skin or hair and which may be used as make-up removal and facial cleansers, foam baths, shower products, shampoos etc. The composition comprises:

(a) from about 0.5% to about 16% by weight of a first amphoteric surfactant selected from imidazolinium derivatives of formula I

wherein R. is C₈-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl, R_ is hydrogen or CH-CH-M, Z is C0₂M or CH-CO-M and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium; (b) from about 0.5% to about 16% by weight of a second amphoteric surfactant selected from aminoalkanoates of formula II

_RlNH(CH₂)_nC0₂M II

iminodialkanoates of formula III

R₁N[(CH₂)_mC0₂M]₂ III and mixtures thereof, wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to 4, and R, and M are independently selected from the groups specified in (a) above;

(c) optionally up to about 10% of anionic surfactant;

(d) from 0.1% to 10% of a hydrophilic thickening agent; and

(e) water;

and wherein the cleansing composition has a viscosity of at least about 150 cps (Brookfield RVT, Spindle No TB, 5 rpm, 25°C), a total surfactant concentration of from about 1% to about 20% by weight and wherein the combined concentration of the first and second amphoteric surfactants comprises at least 50% by weight of the total surfactant concentration.

All concentrations and ratios herein are by weight of total composition, unless otherwise specified.

The invention relates to a foaming cosmetic composition with superior lathering characteristics (abundance, quality) combined with excellent mildness and cleansing ability. The foaming cosmetic composition take the form of a viscous liquid, paste or gel which has the advantage- that it can be easily and commercially packaged in and dispensed from tubes by squeezing. Gel form conpositions are defined herein as those which have a viscosity (Brookfield RVT, Spindle No TB, 5 rpm, 25^βC) of at least 10,000 cps, preferred from the viewpoint of flowability being compositions having a viscosity in the range from 10,000 to 50,000 cps, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 20,000 cps. Viscous liquids or -5-

pastes are defined herein as those having a viscosity (same conditions) of at least about 150 cps, preferably at least about 500 cps and less than 10,000 cps.

The compositions of the invention comprise four essential components as well as various optional components as indicated below.

The compositions herein comprise a mixture of two amphoteric surfactants, a first amphoteric surfactant being selected from imidazolinium surfactants of formula I

wherein R, is Cg-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl, ₂ is hydrogen or CH₂CH₂M, Z is C0₂M or CH₂C0₂M and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or a kanolammonium;

and a second amphoteric surfactant being selected from "arminoalkanoates of formula II

R₁ H(CH₂)_nC0₂M II

iminodialkanoates of formula III

R₁N[(CH₂)_mC0₂M3₂ III and mixtures thereof, wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to 4, and R, and M are independently selected from the groups specified in (a) above.

The compositions herein can also comprise other surfactant components, notably, anionic surfactants. It is an important feature of the invention, however, that the combined concentration of the first and second amphoteric surfactants is at least about 50% by weight of the total surfactant concentration, this being important from the viewpoint of achieving optimum lathering characteristics. In preferred compositions, the mixture of the first and second amphoteric surfactants comprises at least about 60%, more preferably at least about 75% by weight of the total surfactant.

Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants for use as the first amphoteric surfactant include compounds in which R, is CgH-- (especially iso-capryl), C_gH._g and ^C11^H23 ^a~--~ ~- _' Especially preferred are the compounds in which R, is C_gH_ιg Z is C0₂M and R₂ is H; and the compounds in which R, is C,,H₂₃, Z is C0₂M and R₂ is CH₂C0₂M.

It -wi-11 be understood that a number of commercially-available amphoteric surfactants of this type are manufactured and sold in the form of complexes with anionic surfactants, especially those of the sulfated Cg-C,- alcohol or Cg-C₁₈ acyl glyceride types. In one aspect of the invention therefore, the compositions comprise a premix or complex of the first amphoteric surfactant and anionic surfactant in an equivalent ratio of about 1:1 in order to provide approximate electroneutrality. Exa ples of suitable amphoteric surfactants for use as the second amphoteric surfactant include salts, especially the triethanolammonium salts and salts of , N-lauryl-beta-amino propionic acid and N-lauryl-imino-dipropionic acid.

The compositions herein preferably contain from about 1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of each of the first and second amphoteric surfactants. The weight ratio of first amphoteric surfactant : second amphoteric surfactant is preferably from about 10:1 to about 1:10, more preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5, especially from about 3:1 to about 1:3.

The compositions of the invention can be supplemented by surfactants other than the amphoteric surfactants specified above. However, the total level of surfactant in the compositions herein should generally lie in the range from about 1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 15% and especially from about 2% to about 6% by weight.

A preferred optional surfactant in the compositions herein -i-s- an anionic surfactant. This is preferably present in a level of from about 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from about 0.5 to 5% and especially from about 1% to about 3% by weight. Preferred anionic surfactants for inclusion herein, other than alkyl and acylglyceride sulfates mentioned above, are the fatty acid condensation products of proteins, degraded proteins or amino acids or ) mixtures of such condensation products. In highly preferred embodiments, the fatty acid condensation products are selected from:

(i) condensation products of Cg-C,₂, preferably C-₀-C₁₈ fatty acids with hydrolysed proteins, (ii) fatty acid sarcosinates derived from Cg-C₂₂, preferably C₁₀-C₁₈ fatty acids, and (iii) mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the invention also contain a hydrophilic thickener at a level preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 4%. The thickener preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 25°C, Brookfield RVT Spindle No TB, 5 rpm) of at least about 4000 cps, more preferably at least about 10,000 cps.

Suitable hydrophilic thickeners, can generally be described as water-soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxy propylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol, guar gum, hy-β-xoxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.

Preferred hydrophilic thickeners herein, however, include polymers of two types:

1) Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent selected from polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950 and Carbopol 1342. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. A most preferred polymer is Carbopol 1342 which is a hydrophobically-modified cross-linked polymer of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties.

2) Polymers of an ester of C,g-C₂₂ carboxylic acids and a polyethyleneglycol ether of a C_lfi-C₂₂ fatty alcohol and 2 or more monomers of C,g-C₂₂ carboxylic acid or their esters. A preferred thickener of this variety is an acrylate/stearate 20 methacrylate available under the trade mark Acrysol ICS-1.

Highly preferred from the viewpoint of achieving an improved low temperature viscosity profile together with acceptable processing and rub-in characteristics, is a mixture of. the Carbopol and Acrysol type polymers in a weight ratio of about 1:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:5.

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophilic thickeners herein including sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanlolamine and triethanolamine. The compositions of the invention can optionally include a hair or skin moisturizer. The preferred level of moisturizer is from about 3% to about 20% by weight. In preferred embodiments, the moisturizer is nonocclusive and is selected from:

1. water-soluble liquid polyols;

2. essential amino acid compound found naturally occuring in the stratum corneum of the skin; and

3. water-soluble nonpolyol nonocclusives and mixtures thereof.

Some examples of more preferred nonocclusive moisturizers are glycerine, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers of methyl glucose (e.g. methyl glucan-20), polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers of lanolin alcohol (e.g. Solulan-75), sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, urea, L-proline, guanidine, pyrrolidone and mixtures thereof. Of the above, glycerine is highly preferred.

Examples of other water-soluble nonocclusive moisturizers include water-soluble hexadecyl, myristyl, isodecyi or isopropyl esters of adipic, lactic, oleic, stearic, isostearic, myristic or linoleic acids, as well as many of their corresponding alcohol esters (sodium isostearoly-2-lactylate, sodium capryl lactylate) , hydrolyzed protein and other collagen-derived proteins, aloe vera gel and acetamide MEA. The compositions of the invention can additionally comprise from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of cationic or nonionic polymeric hair or skin conditioning agent. Representative classes of polymeric hair or skin conditioning agents include cationic and nonionic polysaccharides; cationic and nonionic homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid; cationic and nonionic cellulose resins; cationic copolymers of diraethyldiallylamraonium chloride and acrylic acid; cationic homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; cationic polyalkylene and ethoxypolyalkylene i ines, and mixtures thereof.

By way of exemplification, cationic polymeric conditioning agents preferred for use herein include cationic guar gums such as hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium guar gum (d.s. of from 0.11 to 0.22) available commercially under the trade names Jaguar C-14-S(RTM) and Jaguar C-17(RTM), and also Jaguar C-16(RTM), which contains hydroxypropyl substituents (d.s. of from 0.8 - 1.1) in addition to the above-specified cationic groups, and quaternized cellulose ethers available commercially under the trade names Ucare Polymer JR and Celquat. Other suitable cationic polymers are homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride available commercially under the trade name Merquat 100, copolymers of dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate and acrylamide, copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide, available commercially under the trade names Merquat 550 and Merquat S, quaternized vinyl pyrrollidone acrylate or methacrylate copolymers of amino alcohol available commercially under the trade name Gafquat, and polyalkyleneiraines such as polyethylenimime and ethoxylated polyethylenimine. A number of additional optional materials can be added to the compositioons of the invention. Such materials include keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or solubilizable preservatives such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitroproρane-l,3-diol); anti-bacterials such as Irgasan (RTM) , phenoxyethanol and phenoxypropanol (preferably at levels of from 0.5% to about 5%); other moisturizing agents such as hylaronic acid, chitin, and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in USA-A-4,076,663; colouring agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers etc. Water is also present at a level of from about 50% to about 98.9% preferably from about 70% to about 95% by weight of the compositions herein.

The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more preferably from about 4.5 to about 7.

The invention is illustrated by the following limiting examples.

In the examples, the abbreviations have the following designation: Araphoteric A The amphoteric of formula I in which R is C_gH_lg, R₂ is H, Z is C0₂Na, the amphoteric being added as an equimolar complex with sodium lauryl sulfate.

Amphoteric B The amphoteric of formula I in which R. is C_I;LH₂₃, R₂ is CH₂C0₂Na, Z is C0₂Na, the amphoteric being added as an equimolar complex with sodium lauryl sulfate.

Amphoteric C Sodium N-lauryl-beta-amino propionate.

Amphoteric D Sodium N-lauryl-beta-iminodipropionate.

Thickener 1 Sodium acrylate/stearate 20 methacrylate copolymer (Acrysol ICS-1) .

Thickener 2 Hydrophobically modified high molecular weight cross-linked acrylate polymer (Carbopol 1342).

Anionic Potassium Coco Hydrolysed Animal Protein.

Polymer- Quaternized cellulose ether (Polymer JR-400).

Preservative Euxyl K400 EXAMPLES I to IV

II III IV

Amphoteric A 2.5 Amphoteric B Amphoteric C 3.5 Amphoteric D Anionic Thickener 1 Thickener 2 Polymer Glycerol Hexylene Glycol EDTA

Preservative Na OH Water

Compositions I to III are made by adding an aqueous premix of the surfactants (31% active concentration) + glycol to a stirred solution of thickener 2 (1.2%) at 40°C, adding the EDTA thereto, followed by an aqueous dispersion of thickeϊϊex 1 (50% active), trimming to a pH of below 7.0, adding the preservative and glycerol, and finally adding the sodium hydroxide and pH trimming to a final pH of 7.00 - 7.4. Composition 4 is made similarly but adding the anionic and polymer prior to thickener 1. The final viscosity is about 15,000 cps.

The compositions display improved foam lathering characteristics (abundance, stability) together with excellent cleansing characteristics and mildness.

Claims

IAIMS - 15 -

1. A foaming cosmetic cleansing composition comprising; (a) from about 0.5% to about 16% by weight of a first amphoteric surfactant selected from imidazolinium derivatives of formula I

wherein R, is C₈-C₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl, R₂ is hydrogen or CH₂CH M, Z is C0₂M or CH₂C0₂M and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium;

(b) from about 0.5% to about 16% by weight of a second amphoteric surfactant selected from aminoalkanoates of formula II

R^HfCH^O^M II

iminodialkanoates of formula III

R₁N[(GH₂)_mC0₂M]₂ III

and mixtures thereof, wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to 4, and R. and M are independently selected from the groups specified in (a) above;

(c) optionally up to about 10% of anionic surfactant;

(d) from 0.1% to 10% of a hydrophilic thickening agent; and

(e) water; and wherein the cleansing composition has a viscosity of at least about 150 cps (Brookfield RVT, Spindle No TB, 5 rpm, 25^βC), a total surfactant concentration of from about 1% to about 20% by weight and wherein the combined concentration of the first and second amphoteric surfactants comprises at least 50% by weight of the total surfactant concentration.

2. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 wherein the mixture of first and second amphoteric surfactants comprises at least about 60%, preferably at least about 75% by weight of the total surfactant.

3. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2 wherein the total surfactant concentration is from about 1% to about 15%, preferably from about 2% to about 6% by weight of the cleansing composition.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 3 comprising from about 1% to about 10% by weight preferably from about 2% to about 4% by weight of each of the first and second amphoteric surfactants.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4 wherein the weight ratio of first amphoteric surfactaat:second amphoteric surfactant is from about 10:1 to about -t:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5, more preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 5 additionally comprising from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, more preferably from about 1% to 3% by weight of anionic surfactant.

7. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 6 comprising a premix or complex of the first amphoteric surfactant and anionic surfactant in an equivalent ratio of about 1:1.

8. A cosmetic composition according to Claims 6 wherein the anionic surfactant is a fatty acid condensation product of a protein, degraded protein or amino acid or a mixture of said fatty acid condensation products.

9. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 8 wherein the fatty acid condensation product is selected from

(i) condensation products of-Cg-C,₂, preferably C₁₀~^CI_R fatty acids with hydrolysed proteins, (ii) fatty acid sarcosinates derived from Cg-C₂₂, preferably C₁₀-C₁₈ fatty acids, and (iii) mixtures thereof.

10. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to

9 comprising from 0.1% to 5% of the hydrophilic thickener.

11. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to

10 having a viscosity of from about 10,000 to about 50,000^"cjis, preferably from about 10,000 to about 20,000 cps (Brookfield RVT., Spindle No. TB, 5 rpm, 25°C) .

12. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to

11 wherein the aqueous cleansing composition comprises from about 3% to about 20% of a hair or skin moisturiser.

13. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 12 wherein the moisturiser is nonocclusive and is selected from:

1. water-soluble liquid polyols;

2. essential amino acid compounds found naturally occuring in the stratum corneum of the skin; and

3. water-soluble nonpolyol nonocclusives and mixtures thereof.

14. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 13 wherein the moisturiser is selected from glycerin, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers of methyl glucose, polyethylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers of lanolin alcohol, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, L-proline and mixtures thereof.

15. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 14 wherein the moisturiser is glycerin.

16. A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 15 additionally comprising from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of cationic or nonionic polymeric hair or skin conditioning agent.

17. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 16 wherein the polymeric hair or skin conditioning agent is selected from cationic and nonionic polysaccharides; cationic and nonionic -homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic acid; cationic and nonionic cellulose resins; cationic copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid; cationic homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride; cationic polyalkylene and ethoxypolyalkylene imines, and mixtures thereof.