WO1990005001A1

WO1990005001A1 - Device suitable for use in climbing a rope

Info

Publication number: WO1990005001A1
Application number: PCT/GB1989/001333
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ian Norman Hale
Original assignee: Ian Norman Hale
Priority date: 1988-11-12
Filing date: 1989-11-10
Publication date: 1990-05-17
Also published as: GB2227675A; GB8826500D0

Abstract

A device suitable for use in climbing a rope (20) consists of a frame (10) which can be secured to a shoe and on which a jamming cleat (24) is pivotally mounted to allow the rope (20) to slide in a guide (18) of the frame (10) in a direction (A) relative to the frame (10) but to prevent movement of the rope (20) in the opposite direction. Support means (28) is mounted for pivotal movement about an axis (X) parallel with the guide (18) for rotational movement between a first operative position in which a limb (36) projects outwardly of the shoe to provide a support on which the other shoe of a climber may be rested and a second inoperative position where the limb (36) lies alongside a heel (58) of the shoe. A pin (48) retained in a notch (50) by a spring (44) releasably locks the limb (36) in its operative position.

Description

DEVICE SUITABLE FOR USE IN CLIMBING A ROPE

TECHNICAL FIELD This invention relates to a device suitable for use in climbing a rope, especially a rope of kernmantle construction, in rock climbing, particularly in modern caving where S.R.T. (singe rope technique) methods have out dated bulky ladders and lifelines, replacing them with a single rope.

BACKGROUND ART Sometimes in climbing situations and virtually always when a vertical pitch is encountered underground it is necessary to climb up a rope which may be hanging vertically or substantially so and where there are no appreciable holds to assist the climbing process. To facilitate climbing such a rope the devices referred to as "Croll" ascenders (made by Petzl) have been used. These devices comprise frame means including a guide for the rope and means mounted on the frame means which are adapted to allow the rope to slide in the guide in a first direction relative to the frame means but to prevent movement of the rope relative to the frame means in a second direction opposite the first. The frame means of the Croll ascender includes an arm pivotally mounted and provided with a curved gripping face adapted to engage the rope when the rope is in the guide, the curved face being eccentric relative to the pivot of the arm. The arm is urged by spring means in a first direction so as to trap the rope between the curved face and the guide of the frame means so that any attempt to move the rope relative the frame means in the same direction as the arm is urged merely leads to the rope being more tightly trapped against the frame means and, therefore, prevents its movement in the first direction. On the other hand, movement of the rope in the direction opposite the force supplied by the spring to the arm will cause the arm to rotate to release the rope to allow relative movement between the rope and the frame means. The arm may be moved in this direction to release the rope either by pivoting the arm manually or by applying a force to the rope in such a direction that the arm is moved by the rope itself to effect release.

Such devices are currently used in pairs to ascend ropes, a first device being attached in the chest region of the climber to a harness worn by a climber and the second device being positioned on the rope above the first and connected to the shoe of a climber by a long flexible strap or rope having a loop at one end which passes round the shoe or boot of the climber.

The term 'shoe' where used herein is intended to denote outer footwear generally, including a boot.

By allowing the weight of the climber to be taken by the Croll ascender attached to the harness , the ascender attached to the shoe by the strap may be manually disengaged to release the rope and moved upwards relative to the rope (the rope remaining in the guide). The ascender connected to the foot of the climber may then be clamped to the rope and the chest mounted ascender released, and slid up the rope by the climber straightening his legs, his weight being taken by the upper ascender. It is thus possible to gradually climb a rope by alternatively sliding the ascenders one after the other up the rope.

Whilst this system of climbing a rope is effective, it is inconvenient in that the application of the weight of the climber to the lower ascender when moving the upper one causes inconvenient movements of the rope because of the load distribution on the rope and thus possible loss of control of the climb by the climber, and in that the manipulation of the upper ascender when moving it upwardly relative to the rope is awkward because it must be moved manually. Thus although the existing equipment does enable climbing of ropes in vertical or substantially vertical situations, it is inconvenient and relatively time consuming.

One of the various objects of the present invention is to provide an improved device suitable for use in climbing a rope.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION In one aspect the invention provides a device suitable for use in climbing a rope comprising frame means adapted to be secured to a shoe of a user and comprising a guide for a rope, means mounted on the frame means adapted to allow a rope to slide in the guide in a first direction relative to the frame means and adapted to prevent movement of the rope relative to the frame means in a second direction opposite the first, and support means mounted on the frame means adapted to project therefrom in a direction outwardly of a shoe to which it is secured whereby, in use to provide a support on which the other shoe of a user may be rested. Usually the other shoe will apply an equal pressure.

Preferably the support means is mounted for movement between a first position in which it projects to provide a support as aforesaid and a second, out-of-the-way position. Conveniently this movement is about an axis extending generally transversely to the sole of a shoe to which the device is attached, that is generally parallel with the guide of the frame means. Thus, preferably, in its second position, the support means lies along side a portion of the shoe suitably a heel portion thereof. Conveniently the support means has an end portion remote from the frame means which is curved to generally follow the curvature of the periphery of the heel portion.

Preferably a device in accordance with the invention comprises means by which the support means can be releasably locked in the first position: suitably this means comprises a pin secured in a part of the support means and which can be received and retained in a notch in the frame means . Preferably when the support means is released from the first position, suitably by withdrawing the aforementioned pin from the notch, means is provided by which the support means is urged towards the second position; this means suitably comprises a spring and a cam-track in which the pin is engaged, the spring being arranged to urge the pin along the cam-track, the cam- track being configured to urge the support means to the second position.

Preferably the support means comprises means, conveniently provided by pointed studs, which facilitate the grip of the other shoe in the use of the device.

In another aspect the invention may be considered to provide a device suitable for use in climbing a rope comprising frame means adapted to be secured to a shoe of a user and comprising a guide for a rope, means mounted on the frame means adapted to allow a rope to slide in the guide in a first direction relative to the frame means and adapted to prevent movement of the rope relative to the frame means in a second direction opposite the first, and support means mounted on the frame means, the support means comprising a member mounted for rotational movement about an axis extending parallel with the guide, or substantially so, between a first, operative, position in which it projects away from the frame means in a direction at right angles to said axis, away from the shoe of a user when the device is secured to a shoe, and a second, inoperative position.

There now follows a detailed description to be read with reference to the accompanying drawings of a device suitable for use in climbing a rope, embodying the invention. It will be realised that this device has been selected for description to illustrate the invention by way of example and not of limitation of the invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS In the accompanying drawings:-

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing a device embodying the invention secured to a boot of a user with support means thereof in a first, operative position;

Figure 2 is a view similar to figure 1 but omitting the boot and showing the support means in an inoperative position and showing a rope in dash line;

Figure 3 is a plan view with parts broken away showing the support means in an inoperative position along side a heel portion of the.boot; Figure 4 is a view in section with parts broken away, showing part of the illustrative device;

Figure 5 is a view in elevation of the part of the illustrative device shown figure 4; and

Figure 6 is a view of part of the support means of the illustrative device showing the installation of gripping means .

MODES FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The ^■ illustrative device comprises frame means 10 adapted to be secured to the shoe of a user by any suitable means. However, the illustrative device is especially adapted to be secured to climbing boots 12 by means of a suitable strap- 14 passing through openings in the frame means 10 and secured by a buckle 16; preferably the buckle 16 may be the type of buckle which is readily tightened and is self-locking.

The frame means 10 comprises a guide 18 for a rope 20. Means, which may be referred to as a jamming cleat, comprises an arm 24 mounted for movement on the frame means 10 about a pivot 22 and is adapted to allow the rope 20 to slide in the guide 18 in a first direction A (see figure 2) relative to the frame means 10 but to prevent movement of the rope 20 relative to the frame means 10 in a second direction opposite the first. To this end, the arm 24 comprises a curved face 26 remote from the pivot 22 and eccentric relative to the pivot 22, the curved face being disposed adjacent the guide 18. Thus pivotal movement of the arm 24 about the pivot 22 in a first sense (indicated by the arrow B in figure 2 of the drawings) is operative to jam the rope 20 in the guide 18 between the curved face 26 and the frame means 10, while the rope can be released by a pivotal movement in the direction opposite and thus allowed to slide relative to the frame means 10 in the direction indicated by the arrow A. Devices for gripping and releasing ropes of this general construction are available commercially under the name "Croll" ascender, but the known devices are not ideally suited to be secured to the shoe of a wearer directly.

The illustrative device further comprises support means 28 on the frame means 10 adapted to project away from the frame means in a direction outwardly of the boot 12, in use, whereby to provide a support on which the other boot of a climber may be rested and apply an equal pressure. The support means 28 comprises an L-shaped member 30 having a first limb 34 mounted for rotational movement about an axis X extending, generally parallel with the guide 18, that is generally in the direction indicated by the arrow A on figure 2 of the drawings in a bearing housing 32 of the frame. The housing 32 also permits sliding movement of the limb 34 lengthwise of the axis X. The second limb 36 of the support member 30 projects at right angles to the axis X.

It can be seen by viewing figure 4, that the limb 34 is recessed at its extremity remote from the limb 36 and has a threaded portion 38 at the bottom of the recess into which is threaded a bolt 40 having a head 42. A compression spring 44 has an end portion received in the recess of the limb 34 and acts between the limb 34 and shoulders 46 at an upper end portion of the bearing housing 32 to urge the limb 34 downwardly relative to the bearing housing 32 to the extent permitted by engagement of the head 42 of the bolt 40 with the shoulders 46 of the housing 32. The upper end of the limb 34 is spaced from the shoulders 46 when the head 42 is in engagement with the shoulders 46 so that the limb 34 can move in the direction of the axis X to an extent determined respectively by engagement of the upper end portion of the limb 34 and of the head 42, with the shoulder 46.

A pin 48 projects from the limb 34 into a cam-track having a first notch portion 50 which extends in a direction parallel with the axis X, and a second portion which meets the notch portion at the end thereof nearest to the head 42 and extends therefrom in a direction around the axis X and away from the head 42 (see figure 5). An outer end portion 54 of the limb 36 is disposed at an angle to the remainder of the limb 36 and carries gripping means in the form of two pointed grub screws 56 which are screw threaded into the outer end portion 54 of the limb 36 (see figure 6). Alternatively the grub screws 56 may be replaced with straight shanked stubs pressed into drilled seats .

In the use of the illustrative device, the frame means 10 is strapped to one boot 12 of the climber: in figure 1 of the accompanying drawings the device is designed for, and shown strapped to, the right boot of the climber. The device is shown in figure 1 with the limb 36 projecting from the frame means 10 in a first, operative, direction outwardly of the boot to which the device is attached, generally at right angles to a central plane extending centrally of the ,boot from toe to heel. The member 30 is locked with the limb 36 in this first position by the pin 48 which is urged by the spring 44 downwardly in the notch 50 to the extent permitted by engagement of the head 42 with the shoulder 46. The limb 36 thus cannot be rotated about the axis X. In use when climbing, with the limb 36 of the support means 28 in this first position, the climber can rest his left boot on the limb 36 so that when his weight is taken by the illustrative device in ascending a rope, it is substantially evenly balanced at either side of the rope and is applied close to the rope 20 itself.

When climbing a rope using the illustrative device a Croll ascender is used in known manner secured to a harness worn by the climber in the chest region of the climber and disposed on the rope 20 above the illustrative device. By placing his weight on both feet on the illustrative device, it can be made to lock onto the rope thus allowing the climber to move the chest mounted ascender upwardly relative to the rope by straightening his legs. When "the upper ascender has reached a suitable position, with the climbers legs fully extended, this can be caused to lock on the rope by merely applying the climbers weight to the upper ascender, in the known manner, and removing the weight from the illustrative device which can then be moved upwardly along the rope (the device being moved in the direction opposite the arrow A) and the rope 20 thus moving in the direction A relative to the frame means 10. Once the operative device has been raised sufficiently, by the climber bending his legs and sliding the device up the rope 20, it may again be locked to the rope merely by placing his weight on the device, the left foot resting on the limb 36. The studs 56 assist the grip of the left foot on the limb 36.

When the rope has been climbed the limb 36 of the support means 28 may readily be moved to its second, inoperative position by pushing the member 30 upwardly using the limb 36 to slide the pin 48 up the notch 50 towards the shoulder 46 and, when it reaches the top of the notch 50, rotating the member 30 about the axis X so that the pin 48 enters the curved cam-track 52 and is urged along it by the spring 44. Because of the configuration of the cam-track 52 the pin 48 is urged along the track by the spring 44 until the limb 36 engages the periphery 57 of the heel 58 of the boot 12 to which-_: the illustrative device is secured (or until the pin 48 reaches the end of the curved cam-track 52). In figure 3 the limb 36 is shown in this second, inoperative, position in which it lies along side the heel portion 58 of the shoe and in which, it will be seen, the outer end portion 54 of the limb 36 follows the curvature of the periphery 57 of the heel portion 58. In this second, inoperative position, the limb 36 of the support means 28 is retained in an out-of-the-way position so that the climber is able to walk from one pitch to the next, without the time consuming operation of removing the illustrative device from his boots (which in any event may be a problem in cold conditions where manipulation of the strap 14 may be difficulty but without running the risk of tripping over the limb 36 which would be considerable were the limb 36 to be allowed to project whilst walking.

When it is wished to again use the illustrative device, the limb is used to rotate the device about the axis X against the action of the spring 44 to drive the pin 48 along the cam-track 52 towards the notch portion 50. When the limb 36 reaches its operative position, the spring 44 urges the the limb 34 downwardly relative to the housing 36 until the head 42 engages the shoulder 46, in which position the support means is shown in figure 1. As will be seen in figure 1, the pin 48 is spaced from the bottom of the portion 50 in the first, operative position. Should there be a failure of the bolt 40, the pin 48 will act as a secondary stop for the member 30, preventing the limb 34 leaving the bearing housing 32.

Whereas the illustrative device is believed to be superior in carrying out the invention, it will be appreciated that a device in accordance with the invention may comprise a fixed support means comprising a bracket fixed to the frame means and having a portion projecting in the same direction as the limb 36 when in its first, operative position in the illustrative device. Such a support means including a fixed bracket, however, would be unsatisfactory in that it would be extremely difficult to walk from one pitch to the next without running a substantial risk of tripping over the projecting bracket - this would, of course, be extremely hazardous when rock climbing or caving.

The frame means 10 and bearing housing may be made of a suitable strong but light material, for example an alluminium alloy supplied under the trade name 'Duralumin* and the L-shaped support member 34, 36 may likewise be made of a similar material. Suitably, the headed screw 40 and the spring 44 together with the pin 48 and grub screws 56 may be of stainless steel. In any event, for durability, it is desirable that the device be made of materials which_^a,re not substantially corroded by exposure to ambient conditions encountered when rock climbing or caving.

The illustrative device in use, is found to be much more convenient and effective when climbing a rope whilst also being convenient in travelling from one climbing pitch to another. The L-shaped support member 30 may readily be removed from its first to its second position by the climber using his other boot to manipulate the member using the limb 36.

The device in use leaves both hands free. This is of great advantage in a teaching or rescue situation. It also eases negotiating a tight pitch or exiting from a shaft where the climbers body is above the ground level before the device is disengaged from the rope.

Claims

1. A device suitable for use in climbing a rope comprising frame means (10) and comprising a guide (18) for a rope (20), means (24) mounted on the frame means adapted to allow a rope (20) to slide in the guide (18) in a first direction (A) relative to the frame means (10) and adapted to prevent movement of the rope (20) relative to the frame means in a second direction opposite the first, characterised in that the device is adapted to be secured to a shoe (12) of a user and comprises support means (28) mounted on the frame means (10) adapted, when the device is secured to a shoe ^"(12), to project therefrom in a direction outwardly of the shoe (12) whereby, in use to provide a support on which the other shoe of a user may be rested.

2. A device according to claim 1 in which the support means (28) is mounted for movement between a first position in which it projects to provide a support as aforesaid and a second out-of-the-way position.

3. A device according to claim 2 in which in its second position the support means (28) lies alongside a portion (58) of the shoe.

4. A device according to claim 3 in which in its second position, the support means (28) lies alongside a heel portion (58) of the shoe and has an outer end portion (54) remote from the frame means (10) curved to generally follow the curvature of the periphery (57) of the heel position (58) .

5. A device according to any one of claims 2 to 4 comprising means (48, 50) by which the support means (28) can be releasably locked in said first position.

6. A device according to claim 5 comprising means (44, 48, 52) by which the support means (28), when released from said first position is urged towards said second position.

7. A device according to anyone of the preceding claims in which the support means (28) comprises means (56) to facilitate the grip of said other shoe.

8. A device suitable for use in climbing a rope comprising frame means (10) comprising a guide (18) for a rope (20), means (24) mounted on the frame means adapted to allow a rope (20) to slide in the guide (18) in a first direction (A) relative to the frame means (10) and adapted to prevent movement of the rope (20) relative to the frame means (10) in a second direction opposite the first, characterised in that the device is adapted to be secured to a shoe (12) of a user and comprises support means (28) mounted on the frame means (10), the support means (28) comprising a member (34) mounted for rotational movement about an axis (X) extending parallel with the guide (18), or substantially so, between a first, operative, position in which it projects from the frame means in a direction at right angles to said axis (X) , away from the shoe of a user when the device is secured to a shoe, and a second, inoperative position.

9. A device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein said means (24) mounted on the frame means comprises an arm (24) pivotally mounted (22) on the frame means (10) and having a curved face (26) disposed adjacent the guide (18), the curved face (26) being eccentric relative to the pivot (22), in which pivotal movement of the arm (24) in a first sense (B) is operative to jam a rope (20) in the guide (18) between the curved face (26) and the frame means (10) and pivotal movement in an opposite sense releases the rope (20).