USRE6311E - Improvement in sewing-machines for sewing the sweat-linings of hats - Google Patents

Description

UNITED STATES' PATENT OFFICE.

RUDOLF EICKEMEYER, OF YONKERS, NEW vYORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES FOR SEWING THE SWEAT-LININGS 0F HATS.

Speelficatik n forming part of Letters Patent No. 52,698, dated February 20, 1866 reissue No. 6,31 l, dated March 2, 1875 ;V applicationwled January 27, 1875.

To all whom it may concern:

' Beit known that I, RUDOLF EICKEME YER, of Yonkers, in the county of \Vestchester and State of New York, have invented a certain new and useful Mechanism by means of which Sweat-Linings may be Sewed into Hats; and that the following, taken in connection with the drawings, is a lull, clear, and exact description thereof. j

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of my mechanism. Fig. 2 is a front elevation thereof. Fig. 3 is a partial side elevation therev of, taken on the side opposite to that represented in Fig. l. Fig. 4 is a top view4 or plan of parts thereof. Fig. 5 is a plan of the preferred form of feed in g device. Fig. 6 is a transverse vertical section through certain parts of the apparatus.

As my inventionc'on'sists in Amechanism for I sewing sweat-linings into hats, a necessary part thereof is mechanism for making a seam, and the mechanism which I prefer for making a seam, and which is shown in thedrawings, is that commonly known as the Willcox dt Gibbs; but I desire it to be distinctly understood that other kinds of mechanism for making seams may be employed in place thereof, such as the needle-and-shuttle mechanism, or others which produce theiuterlacing of threads which form stitches.

In sewing on a sweat-lining it is necessary, irst, that the seam shall be as nearvas possible to the junction of the brim with the side crown of the hat, and therefore that the hat shall be supported and guided relatively to the needl'e, so that the seam shall be in this proper place, and shall throughout its extent be substantially at the same distance from the salient corner formed by the junction of the side crown and brim; second, that the sweatlining shall' be forced totake its-proper position in relation to the hat as it is` bein g sewed to the hat.

In order that the opera-tion may be more conveniently performed, and with less attention and manipulation on the part of the operator, itis desirable to support the side crown as well as the brim; to feed the hat in a circular direction by afeeding-surface acting both upon the under side of the brim and the outside of the crown; to press the re-entering corner at the junction of side crown and brim firmly against a corresponding. salient corner forming part of the machine; to introduce the hat under the presser-foot by a mouth-piece, and to add to the guide for the sweatlining an auxiliary guide, which will almost if not en tirely relieve the operator from manipulation of this lining after it has been once placed properly in the machine. y

An ordinary sewing-machine with an ordinary cloth-plate will not serve Amy purpose, for the reason that the corner at the side of the hat at the junction of side crown and brim cannot be brought sufficiently near the needle. My iirst change, therefore, from an ordinary sewing-machine is to make the cloth-plate 1H to project so slightly in iront of the needle (see specially Figsr and 6) that the re-entering corner at the junction of side crown and brim can be brought close upto the needle, and I prefer tomake this frontedge of the cloth-plate concave in shape. Vhen the edge of the cloth-plate is thus arranged with reference to the needle this edge of the plate forms a guide for the hat, as ,the edge takes into the corner of the hat at the junction of side crown and brim, and keeps that part Aof the hat where the seam is being sewed always in a definite position with respect to theneedle, so that when the hat is pressed against this front edge of the cloth-plate the seam is always at the same distance from the corner of the hat.

lThe next thing to provide for is the proper guiding of the piece of leather which forms the sweat-lining, so that its edge shall be always at the same distance from the corner of the hat. 'In rder to effect this I use a guide, against which the edge of the sweatlining presses, and so long as its edge is kept against this guide, which is near the needle, and Aa1- ways at the same distance from the needle, and acts on the sweat-lining on its way to the needle, the lining must be held in proper relation to the hat. This guide, whichcontrols the edge of the sweatliuing, is shown in the drawings at c, Fig. G; the-part which really does the work being the nearly-vertical face of metal against which the edge of the sweatlining bears, andin the drawing this' guide is represented as attached to an extension of the presser-foot.

In order to support the ,hat more conveniently for lthe workman, I attach to the edge of the table h, and depending therefrom, a curved piece of sheet metal, h', conforming somewhat in shape tothe side crown ofl the hat, and I incline the cloth-plate rearward, and this stationary crown-supporting plate outward at the bottom, and cut a wide slotin the latter, as at c c, so as to allow free .play of the loop in the formation of a stitch.

An ordinary presser-foot would hold the hat-brim down, and an ordinary four-'motion feed, acting on the under side of the brim,

would carry it along, so that the needle and 1 revolving looper F would make a seam there on; but in thatrcase the operator would be obliged to keep thecorner of the hat continually pressed against the edge of the cloth-plate, or the junction of the acting surface of the crownsupporting plate with the acting surface of the cloth-plate or table. In order to hold thel corner of the hat against its guiding edge or,v

corner, I have therefore contrived a new presser-foot, which is shown at I in the drawings. This presser-foot is not a mere flat plate, as' usual, but has in reality twoi surfaces, the one pressing the brim of the hat down upon the table, the other entering` the crown of the hat, and pressing the side crown of the hatV against the edge of the table or cloth-plate. This presser-foot is mounted"upon anarm', K, pivoted at g, so that it rises and falls' in lines diagonal both to the table and crown-support. ing plate, and is shownin`the drawings as h eld down upon the hats by the rod J of the ordinary presser-foot, which is furnished with a cross-piece, j, which fits loosely into a slot, k, in a strong piece of metal, torwhichthe plate of sheet metal,.which is the presser-foot,

is secured. One surface of this presser-foot is". also shown 1n the drawings as curved, so as to correspond with the curvature of the crownsupporting plate, and ashaving attached to it a'piece, I', which never holds the hat either to the (table or crown-supporting plate, but serves" to guide the hattin under the real presserfoot- This piece l" gradually 'ares away from the table and the cloth-supporting plate,- (see Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4,) and the needle enters the sweat-cloth between it and the presser-foot proper, as at d,'Fig. 4. I call thisfpiece I' the mouth of the presser-foot.

In order 'that the feed may be more strong and etlicient I cause it to act both on the under side of the brim and the outside of thevside' crown, and to this end form the feeding-bar with two serrated surfaces, one acting beneath the brim, the other against the side crown, these two surfaces being at nearly right angles to each other. (See Figs. 2,4, and 5.) This leedbar P is mounted upon a bar, Q, supported and actuated as usual; but as the feedbar must act against the side crown, as wellyasI beneath the brim, I makethe end of the lever VQ a loose it upon the pin q, and Aapply a stationary inclined plane, s, Figs. 3 Vand 5, also a spring, t, which` causes vtheabar Q to bear against this-inclined plane. *In consequence 'of this construction the feedingsurfaces and bar, when taking hold of the hat, move diag-l onally upward, or upward and outward-at the same time, instead of vertically upward, as in an ordinary sewing-machine.

The vguide which controls vthe 'edge of the sweat-cloth, before spoken offserves all neces- -Ifhavexexteuded it-in fact'added to it parts `edgevshal-l restlagainst the guide. vI call this addition to the' guide, which controls the edge It .is shown at K. in the drawings, and is at tached to an extension of the presser-foot, and'conforms somewhat in shape to theouter is composed of a thin plate of metal, bent so as to present a nearly horizontal surtace, and an inclined curved surface, and is elastic, so that its inclined curved surface may be caused to bear against a sweat-lining introduced between it and. theouter surface of the monthpiece of the presserfootL ,When asweatllinface of the auxiliary sweat-guide', thev bent le-` ver M, which isnpivo ,pt l'toan arm, m, securedzto an extensin V1?li'e"Ii1`ss fot is, by the action of the spring-,Incansed--to'force the auxiliary Vsweat-guide upon,the `sweat-'1inchine is working`,drawing 'it by the action of the; feed against the guide which controls the edge of the sweatilining. Another lever, N, which maybe `raised byhand, and which is pivoted at 'n to the arm `m, is provided with atud, p. -Wlilfis, .raised the stud p is bronghtoyer the bend of the lever M, and relieves .the auxiliary sweat-guide, so that it time a sweat-lining may be introduced.

The mechanism for making stitches may be either the needle and hook of Willcox & Gibbs er other known devices, for concatenating a thread or threads. 'I'

In the operation of the machine the hat rests with its re-entering corner against the front edge of the table, and with its brim under the sweat-lining,-which is, by the action of the presser-foot, pressed down against the upper 'ing rests oiitop of the hat-brim and against .the guide which ncontrols this edge. As the front edgelof ythe table, the guide which controls the edge of the sweat-lining, and the hole in the table through ,which the needle l.passes occupy fixed relativefpositions, it follows that the seamv u1u-st at allf'pa'rts be equally distant from the salient cornerot` the hat, -and that sar'yusefifgpurposes; but in'gprder `to relieve theropemtfn from attention and manipulation,y

which i,ntrodums the sweat-lining so thatA its `of the' sweat-1ining,the auxiliary-sweat-gnide.

surfaces of the mouth of the presser-foot.' It

ing has been itroducedfbetween the, outerr surface of the-mouthpiece*and the innen' suring, thus `bending it, and, when the ma springssaway from the mouth-piece, at which A side of the brim. The edge of the sweatlinthe edge of the sweat-lining must alwaysfbe equally distant-'from that same corner` The descending part of the presser-footq'anls the. re-entering l'corner of the hat againstthe edge of the table, and thus relieves the operator from vthat duty.; The depending sidecrown support controls the hat more eiciently than the simple edge of the table. The mouthpiece of the presser-foot introduces thehat so that its re-entering corner Voccupies the proper place, and the auxiliary sweatfguide bends the sweat-lining and introduces it to the guide,

which controlsits edge... @hedouble-faced-feedfeeds more `strongly thanA an ordinary feed, and also prevents theside corner-f in dragging behind the brim, which is a lng that might occur if the hat'were fed' by a rough surface acting only against the under side of its brim.

1 claim as of my own invention- 1. In. combinationl with a, '.mechanism, for making stitches, and a presser-foot, a guide `for controlling the edge of the sweatdining, anda cloth-plate, these four elements being constructed andrelativelyarran'ged substantially as described, whereby the re-enterng corner of the hat formed by the junction of the brim and side crownimay be'heldin properposition;

with relation to the sweat-lining and the stitching mechanism, to receive stitches through the sweat-liningand the hat, as specified.

2. A stitching mechanism and a feeding mechanism, 'in -combination with a lyielding presserfifoot having twoactingsurfaces, and

arranged to act substantially as described, whereby the re-entering corner of the hat formed by thev junction of the side Acrown and brim may be held in proper position with re- .lation to Jhe stitching mechanismto receive stitches, as specified.

3. The combination, with a'presser-foot hav@ ing two acting surfaces, of a feed-bar having' two serrated acting. surfaces, andoperating substantially as described.

4. In combination, a-yielding pressenfoot,

a cloth-plate or table, the edge of which is arranged with reference to a needle to form stitches in a hat, as specified, a mechanism for making stitches, and a stationary depending plate, whose surface supports a side crown, as described. f

5. In combination with a presser-foot having two pressing-surfaces, a month-piece, substantially as described, for guiding the hat to the stitching mechanism.

6. In combination with the yielding presse I foot, a guide which controls the edge of a sweat-lining, and an auxiliary sweat-guide, these 'two being constructed and operating substantially as described. f

7. Apresser-foothavingtwo acting surfaces,

in combination with a guide which controls the edge of the sweat-lining, and which is arranged relatively to the stitching` mechanism, as hereinbefore described, and a depending side crown support, whereby a hat and a sweat-lining to be sewed therein may be held in proper relative position, as described, the

combination of these elements being and acting to form stitchesthrough the hat vand the lining, as herein set forth.

i RUDOLF'EIC'KEMEYER;

Witnesses:

G. OSTERHELD, GEORGE Nana.

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