USRE4933E - Improvement in the manufacture op boots and shoes - Google Patents

Description

' 2 Sheets--Sheat1. L. H. FARNSWORTH.

Manufacture of Boats and Shoes.

Reissued iu ne 4,1872.

Fig. 3.

4a d g flttarneys.

Witnesses 0% 02,

2 Sheets--Sheet 2'. L. H. FARNSWORTH.

Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. No, 4,933, Reissuedlun4.1872.

I'Vitnasses M .dttorneys.

UNITED STATES.

PATENT OF I E.

LUTHER H. rAnnswonTH, or nnoson, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNEE OF PHEBE s. ALEXANDER, ADMINISTRATRIX or .THE Es'rA'rE or ELIAS ALEXANDER, DECEASED.

IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES- Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 39,370, dated August 4, 1863} reissue No. 4,933, dated June4,

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that ELIAS ALEXANDER, of Providence, in the county of Providence and State of Rhode Island, did invent a new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawing making part of this specification, in which- Figure 1 represents one construction of the improved boot-an open-top boot. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the same with the lapels L L folded back, showing the.arrangement of the front beneath the same. Fig. 3 is a diagram of the pieces composing the back of such boot. Fig. 4 is a diagram of the pieces composing the front of the same. Fig. 5 is a diagram ofthe cloth lining A of the front, Fig.

2. Fig. 6 represents another construction of the improved boot (a closed-top boot) with a slip-leg,'B, which is in a separate piece, and

is intended to be worn with either construction. Fig. 7 is a diagram of the ankle-piece F of the front of such boot. Fig. 8 is a transverse section of the improved heel for' boots and shoes. Fig. 9 is a plan of one of the lifts of such heel. Fig. 10 is a diagram, illustratin g the method proposed of cutting such lifts from the hide with economy. Fig. 11 is a diagram of a straight piece of leather, whichrnay be converted into such lifts by bending.

Fig. 12. represents the boot upper upon the last; showing the improved-method of staying the same over the shank. Fig. 13 is a diagram of the pieces composing the vampof the closed-top boot, Fig. 6. Fig. 14 shows the mode of making a seam .by first connecting two edges of the leather and whipping the thread hack and forth across the two p arts'bcfore sewing thereon the outer shielding stripand Fig. 15 shows two pieces of leather place edge to edge with the outer strip sewed thereon. i 7 t Similar letters of reference 'indicate corresponding parts in all the figures.

In the manufacture of boots it has heretofore been the practice to form the front and back of the same, each in one piece, which are:

united by a seam, g, on each side, or to form each in two pieces, which are united by a seam, h. In cutting such pieces of the proper size and form a large percentage of the skinis necessarily wasted, the remaining pieces being of such size and form as to be comparatively worthless to the manufacturer; and, in order to cut the skin advantageously, it not unfrequently happens that the more durable portions of the skin go to form .the leg and instep of the boot, where it is subjected to but little strain and wear,'while the thinner and less durable portions thereof go to form the toe and vamp, where it is subjected to the seven est strain and wear, in consequence of which this latter portion of the boot soon breaks or wears out, often before the sole is worn through,

for footing. By the present method, also, if the boot breaks out at the side, or any part of the upper. leather wears through, it can only be repaired by patching, which is both weak and unsightly. Again, "when the vamp and toe of the boot become so worn and broken that the boot is worthiess, except for footing, in most cases the leg and instep of the upper lca-ther are as good and useful as ever. The heel is good and theshank is in perfect form and firmly secured to the upper leather, notwithstanding which the instep, the shank, and

by footing; and if the back of the leg at O is worn to a hole, or even thin, (and it is at this point that the leg first wears out,) the entire boot is rejected as worthless for any purpose whatsoever. Also, in the present method of making the seams the two pieces to be united are laid side by side and sewed together as near the edge as possible; then the seam is the wearer. To provide a remedy for these and jections in the present method of making boots and shoes is the object of this invention, which consists in making the front and back of boots eitch in'a number of pieces, and insuch a formration and arrangement of such pieces that thoseportions of the boot which-'-from being and the boot is thus rendered useless, except the Heel are all cut away and lost in order that the simple leg may be again made serviceable pressed down. This, however, always leaves more or less of a ridge on'theinside, which is. very annoying, as it often chafes and injures other obtsubjeetedto at severest strain and was are the soonest worn out may be removed and replaced withvnew leather without disturbing the other parts of the same, substantially as hereinafter specified, .The invention'further .consists in casing and ventilating the footandaar'ikleo'f a boot by means of an opening-extending along: the topof the foot from the toe Jcovered'laced opening, the use of aistrap and buckle across the'finstep, of such boot, for the purpose of holding the foot 'firm-ly'thereiu and preventing it from crowding forward against gthe t'o'ei 'The 'inventionalso, consists in the pellculiarconstruction of the heel (if-boots and shoes to efl'e'ct a saving in leather as compared 1 with-the ordinary method of making ',=leatherlieels', substantial] as hereinafter specified. It also consists in uniting two pieces of leather .for a be t or shoe by placin'gtheir edges toge'th'er'and sewing a-s'trip on the outside to both pieces, covering the joint; and, also, in

y -nakin'g-a seam, after placing'theedgespf the leather together, by,- whippingv the' thread acrossthe two parts back andfforthbeforethe 1outershielding-stiipjs sewed "on.-

- 'ankle-'tlie former f. To enable others skilled 4 "the'jarttohiake and use my invention'l will describe the same: A

In the annexeddrawing, Figure 1' s asm,

I an open-top? boot, it being "madeto open "along the top of the foot and-ankle,'-as shown in Fig. 2;- and Fig.6 represents a closed-top? boot; the front being closed over thejfoot'and p being a ventilated boot designed for warm weather, and thelatter being intended for general use I and et weather. The front of the open-top boot-besides the leg piece D, Figs; 1 and 2, may'be-g3omposed of the. following Jpieces, shown l in Fig. 4, two pankle' pieces, F "F two shankpieces, l '1' ,t'woside pieces or. vamp pieces; J' ;J and the toe Ipiece', K; with the following pieces, being coverings and fastenings,l showniuisingle dotted lines: the lapels L, andthe straps N N; and the lining piece via, the sidefoot'lininga "shown-in doub. '7 dotted lines,; '1 ig'.4 ,,andtl1e, fi'ont-liningA,'showu in i 5. These pieces are'formed and arranged sub.-

stantially' as shown 'in the several "figures; The. back. of the boot maybe composed or the legpieces D the two ankle pieces H H thebaclr ankle piece 0, and the counter, M. These: are .formed'aud arranged as shown in Figs. 1', 2, andfi, and are nnited to the front above described by the side seams---g g,- as own. tF gsls @l v. .1. ltisevi'dent that informing $110 8: in such; aknmnber of 'piecesmot'only may flierskin -be cuts-more. economically, but the thl'0ke-I w more :dnrableportions-n ay to-formg rable portions thereof maybe cut into ankle and leg pieces, which are but little ailected may be worked into the foot of the boot, while an inferior grade may go to form such parts Las are but little exposed to wear and sight, therebyconsiderably cheapening the costof the boot without diminishing its usefulness or, durability. The, parts of the boot which wear out the soonest are the toe K and vamp J of the foot,-and the backof the'ankle at 0, Figs. 1 and 3; and in order that thesepaits may be removed when worn and replacedwith new-leather each of said parts is formed in'a separate piece and united to the less perishable parts by seams so located and arranged that the former pieces may be removed with out disturbing the latter; To accomplis'h'this purpose the seam f is made, which seam'is shown-in Figs. t J' the sole upward and backward toward the ankle, asshown, uniting-v the vamp J with the ing upon the manufacturing and repairing of boots. and shoes,for by'means of this seam the vamp J 'andfthe toe piece forward'ofthe same may be"removed from time to time as long as the 'moredurable instep, heel,', and shank remain. serviceable, which are thereby saved and made useful instead of being cut' away, as heretofore, in footing aboot, or thio wn away as useless in a shoe;- also, pa'tching thevamp J, as formerl'ypracticed, thebrokenor wornpiece J or.J or the toe piece K, maybe renewed with the same'facility that a patch can be put on in the man- ;ner above described. This seam f, therefore," for the specified purpose, forms one feature,

of improvement in this invention. The seams d din the back of the boot, in connection with the seam'h,

byineans' of the said seams the ankle piece 0 may "be renewed from time to time as long, as

thereby givin bility to the leg of the'boot when and wheit is most needed. The ankle piecesIH'H may alsobere'newed from facility by means of the said seams .It is obvious from the above descriptiouthat, there movable pi 'ce- H fithat-is', be formed in one piece terminat- .ingin the side scams- 9 g-'-an'd the samedesii rable result obtained. The seamsd l in com'- Diua'tiou with the removable piece-U form an} other featureof improveni entin'this invention. Thefseams' g'. a'ndd dare-formed by stitching such partsof he steam-subjected toj'tlie a? welt. or narrow. strip, to, of. leather; to tlie severest wearyviz'l, the vamp JI'J, the' toe. -K, and the ankle piece 0, while the less duby 'wear; also that abetter grade of leather 1, 2, and o, and en ine from unction of the'tap m with the shank p of shank piece L, whereby the tap m and vamp 7 instead of are also ofgreat importance, foif the'leg and counter remain'firn and sound, M

g increased strength and dura I time to time with equal 0 may include. the two pieces will only be necessary lacings are to be two pieces thus united with their edges together. Theadvantageof this form of seam in this connection is, that it gives additional strength to'the parts thus united; it receives the wear which would'otherwise come upon theleg; and, as it is closedfrom the outside contrary to the usual form of side seam used, it providesfor the removal and replacement of the pieces. This 'ibrm of seam will alsovprevent the formation of any ridge on the inside,

and for this reason ma'ybe used upon; any part of a boot or shoe, and forms'a very important ,feature of this invention. Before s'ewingon the strip at the two parts mayv be sewed to. gether,

as shown in Fig. 14,-by being sown through from and whipped over upon the outside. It has been above stated, and it will beseen by reference to Fig. 2, that the opening in the front of the boot extends from the toe piece K to the upper part of the ankle piece F; that'the edges of said opening are drawn together to adjust the boot to the proper degree-of snugness by means of two or more separate sets of lacings, 1, 2, and 3; and it is the particular location and extent of the opening and the use of two or more distinct lacings as specified which distinguish my arrangement from that of openings heretofore employed in the front of boots and gaiters;

and the use of -a single lacing therewith for, the sake of mere ornament or for the purpose of admitting the foot and fastening the gaiterboot therednthe ordinary construction of a laced opening with but a singlelacing being i'nsufficient for the accomplishment of the purpose intended in the arrangement shown and described. By means of the aforesaid .laced opening the en tire foot is thorou ghly'ventilated, and the parts connected by the several lacin gs may be separately adjusted to favor a more sensitive part of the foot, or to ease the boot when .thefoot becomes swollen from long-continued walking or standing. I

In applying this improvement to shoes it to use the lacing 1 across thetoes-and' ball of the foot,'as the laced opening which constitutes the fastening will furnish sufficient means of ventilation and I relief to the foot. It should. be here stated-,-

by way of explanation, that the several sets of adjusted when the boot or shoe is first put on, and that they are not; af-

terward to be disturbed in pulling't-he boot or;

shoeon and off.

In combination with a laced opening, as; above described, itis necessary to use a lapel or covering, L L, to. exclude rain, snow, and

- dirt; and as the instep ofa boot is divided by the said opening a strap vand buckle, N N, is

required to hold the foot from shoving for ward and breaking through. the toe of the boot; and though both the lapelsand the strap'and buckle are old and well known, yet

. when combined with the said laced opening each is considered as forming a part of such combination and improvement, and are consequentlytherewith claimed. 1 a

' roundness or fullness.

The legof the boot is ventilated at the ankle by means of a number of perforations or openmade directly through the leg of the in .7 boot, as shown lll Figs. 1 and 2, in which perforations eyelets ,may be inserted, if desired. The front toot-lining A, Figs. 2 and 5, may be of'either cloth or leather, the former being preferred for a cool ventilated boot; and, when additional warmth is required in boots of this construction, the purpose is to insert a layer of padding, or woolen cloth, or other suitable material, between the footlining A and the lapel L, which covers the same.

The closed-top boot, Fig. 6, is intended for general use and for wet weather; and, though its'construct-ion is mainly like that of the opentopboot, it contains some important points of difference which are improvements-in closedtop boots of the ordinary construction. The parts or pieces which are common in both are indicated by the same letters of reference.

7 It will be seen that the vamp J is formed intwo pieces,

J and J, a diagram of which is shown in Fig. 13; and it will be seen that there is a continuous seam, 1, extending from the top of the leg to the toe, in the front of the boot, which divides the upper part of the leg into two equal pieces, D", the ankle into two equal pieces, F andthe vamp and toe into two equal pieces, J 2 and J (see Fig. 13.)

The advantages of this continuousseam Z are, that the leather may be cut with greater'economy by making each part of the frontviz.', D F and J "J --in two pieces instead ofa single piece; that in formingthe ankle in two pieces, as represented in Fig. 7, and uniting the same by the seam l, the operation of crimping the front to form the bend of theankle is avoided, and amore natural and easy shapeis given tothisportion. of the boot, without a tendency to wrinkle. By

means of, this separate crimped ankle piece a more pliable piece of leathermay be inserted in the ankle of thick boots, and by so doing v overcoming the stiifness and consequent liability to chafe the ankle, so universally experienced in wearing such bootsf By forming the vamp J in twopieces,unite,d by a seam, I, the maker is enabled,Zbycutting. the. edges S S Fig. 13,.whichare united in said seam, with a suitable curvature, to remove the surplus of leather which goes to form wrinkles over the ball of the foot, "and to make this portion of a boot or shoe conform more nearly to the shape of the foot without wrinkling.

The seam f, which has been more particularly described above, has the same advantages in the closed-top as in the open-top boot;

and, in additionto those hereinbefore specifled, there is one other of considerable import ance, v1z., near the ball of the great toe, upon the inside of the foot of the hoot, thereis owing to the hollowing in of the foot at this point-a surplus of leather, and upon the op posite side of the foot there is a corresponding To make the boot con form more nearly to the shape of the foot "at these two points the two edges t t-arecut,

which are united in the seam f upon the inside of the foot, in the form shown in Figs. 4 and 13, to remove the surplus leather; and two edges, r r, are also. out upon the outside of the foot, in the form shown in the said'figurcs, to create a fullness at this point.

In Fig. (i of the draw-mg, B is a slip-legor covering, for protecting the ankle from cold and dampness, for which purpose, especially in traveling, it is exceedinglyuseful.

far, or a similar material, or of thick woolen cloth or canvas, of the proper size and form to slip smoothly over the boot-leg and fit easily around the ankle of the same. It is easily put on and off, and when notin use it may be folded into a small package and carried, without inconvenience, in the pocket.

In renewing the toe and vamp of the boot or shoe a number of times, using the same shank p, it is necessary that the shank piece pull across the shank,and thereby sustains and relieves the stitching or pegging upon each side of the shank from the severe strain-to which thesame would otherwise be subjected. This lacing also greatly facilitates the operation of lasting, besides drawing the upper leather down over the shank more evenly than it can possibly be done by pincers in the ordinary'way. y Y I p An improved method of constructing the heel of boots and shoes is shown in- Fig.8,

which consists in forming a heel of a number of horseshoe-shaped lifts of leather,V V, Fig. 9

and a top lift covering the hollow space inclosed by the previous lifts V V. Within this hollow space there may be arranged a suitable support, consisting of two metal plates, T T, united by two posts,,W W, ora flat piece of wood placed directly beneath the top lift and itsedges resting upon one of the under lifts,or a block of wood occupying the entire hollow space, either being sufficient for the purpose. An interior support is, however, entirely unnecessary,.as the top lift will be sufliciently-supported if the horseshoe-shaped lifts V be of a-proper width -say half an inch. The open space in front of the heel may be closed with pieces of leather pegged to the sole and to each other. In this ,way heels may be constructed not only ofz soleleather, but-of lifts of upper-leather, in every way as substantial and durable as a heel made in the ordinary way, and with a saving of from eighty to one hundred per cent. in material as compared with the ordinary inethod' As this heel is made entirely of leather, and. is built upon the sole in the usual way with the same It consists of a sleeve ofleather, lined with woolen,

byany boot or shoe maker.

The horseshoe-shaped lifts V, Fig. 9, may be cut from the leather in the manner shown by the diagram, Fig. 10, with but little waste of stock, while the leather which, in the ordinary construet-ion, forms the interior of the into -'a portion of the outsideviz., the ends of the lifts V-whiGh results in a saving'of eighty per treat. in materialthat is, eighty per cent. more lifts of the horseshoe form may be cut from the same piece of leather than of the ordinary form. The horseshoe-shaped lifts V may be made with still greater economy froinstrips like that shown in Fig. 11, which may be cut from the hide without any'waste, and which may be cut from scraps of both sole and upper leather, which are now thrown away as ,being toosmall for anypurpose; These strips I may be readily curved into the form required for the lifts-V separately, with: the fingers, as

simple machine, a number may be curved into the proper form atone operation.

I It will be seen that the outside counter M,

are united in a seam at w av, over which is in Fig. 6, and by dotted lines in Fig. 3, for the ,twofold purpose of concealingthe seam m and stifl'ening the counter.

' By forming the counter in two pieces in stead of a single piece a considerable saving pens that apiece, otherwise of sufiicient size and every way suitable-for a counter, lacks it it will be seen that the foot -'of the boot; is unitedvwith its leg by means of the seam k extending from one side seam, g, directly across the instep to the opposite side seam g, and that, in. connection with such seam, a separate crimped ankle piece, F, Fig. 7, formed in" pieces, united by a single straight. seam, l, in front-or its equivalent, a single piece crimped in the usual way-is employed to carry into effeet the several purposes to be accomplished in forming the front of the-bootin a number of pieces, substantially as herein specified.

' It will be understood that this invention is not intended to be confined to the exact number of forms of the pieces, nor to the precise location ofth'e seams as herein'set forth but from, by means of which those parts ofa boot or shoe which are the soonestworn or broken tools usually employed, it can be readily made I heel, is, by this method of cutting, converted I they are wanted, and, by means of a very- Fig. 3, is formed in two pieces, .M M?, which stitched a stiiiener or patch, U, as shown fully in stock is efi'ected, as, the counter being the. smallest piece in the whole hoot, it often hapcorner or is a trifletoo short. Such pieces,

Inv the closed-top boot represented in g. 6

two 1 to embrace all merel-y formal variations there-.

may be removed and replaced with new leather without disturbing the other parts of the same; that the more durable portions of the skin-may go to form those parts of the boot or shoe which are subjected to the severest wear; and that greate economy may be exercised in cutting the leather than by the ordinary method, substantially 1;" herein specified.

Having thus fully described the invention, what is claimed as new, andadesired to be sjecured byLetters Patent, is-- 1. The seam for boots and shoes formed by placing two pieces of leather edge to edge, and connecting the same by sewing the strip :10 on the exterior of both pieces, substantially as and for the purposes herein set forth.

2. The seam for boots and shoes formed by placing two pieces of leather edge to edge, sewing the parts thus placed by a whipstitch, and then covering the joint by the outer ship as sewed on the two parts and over the connectingstitches, substantially as and for the purposes herein set forth.

3. The front and back of boots and shoes, when each is formed in a number of pieces, constructed and arran ged substantially as herein described to elfect the purpose specified.

4-."lhe two side seams f f, in combination with a removable piece or pieces forming the vamp of a boot or shoe, substantially as de scribed, for the purpose specified.

5. The two seams cl d, in combination with a separate piece, 0, inserted in the back of a boot-leg, substantially purpose specified.

6. In combination with an opening in the front of a boot extending from the toe to the ankle, as set forth, two or more separate lacings, 1 2 3, the lapels L L, and the strap and buckle N N, substantially as described, for the purpose specified.

7.- The heelR, composed of a number of horseshoe-shaped lifts, V, of leather, and a top lift, either with or without an interior support, substantially as herein shown and described, for the purpose specified.

8. The outside counter M of boots when formed in two or more pieces, substantially as described, for the purpose specified.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing I have hereunto set my hand this 12th day of April, 1872.

LUTHER H. FARNSWORTH.

' Witnesses:

/ G110. S. RAWSON,

SARAH B. Rawson.

as described, for the

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