USRE421E - Improvement in molds for pressing bonnet-fronts - Google Patents

Description

the city, county, and State ot' New York, have by declare that the following is a full, clear,

UNITED 'STATES PATENT OFFICE..

wnirirnn n. Kinn', or New Youn, N. Y. `IMPFKVEMENT |N` MOLDS FOR. PRESSlNG BONNET-FRONTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 11,996, datediNovember 28, 1854, Reissue No. '42 l, dated January 13, 1857.

injured by changing the position of the tips or ends to each other-as, for instance, if, during the process of stretching or contracting to give the required curvature or flaring form, the ends be placed farther apart or nearer together than they are required to be when the bonnet is completed, the curve at the top will be materially injured when the ends are brought to the required position, either during the process of completing the frame or A after To all whom it may concern Beit known that I, WHITTEN E. KIDD, of

invented new and useful Improvements in Apparatus for Pressing Iand Shaping Buckram or Willow Bonnet-Fronts and I do hereand exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making part of this specification, in which- Figure lis a plan of the apparatus Fig. 2, a plan i of the lower mold 5 Fig. 3, a vertical section of the apparatus, taken in the vertical plane of the line l l of Fig. 2; and Fig.4 is a plan of the strip of buckram as prepared to be pressed in the form of a bonnet-front.

The same letters indicate` like parts in all the figures.

In making frames for ladies7 bonnets of buckram or similar material the iiaring front is vmade of a separate strip cut of the required size, and after this has been bent and pressed to the required flaring form and curve it is then applied, while in a moist state, to the edge of the crown, and heat and pressure applied, which causes the gummy preparation of the Vbuckram to cement and unite them.

The object of my invention is to give to such fronts thev complete configuration which they are required to have when the bonnet is completed preparatory to the usual process of uniting it with the crown. The buekram or other material of which bonnet-frames are made is prepared, in the process of manufacturing, with a gummy substance, which becomes adhesive when moistened and heated, and if the required curvature be given to this material by the application of heat and pressure while it is in a moistened state the guinmy substance becomes softened, and in that softened state the fibrous material of the buckram can be contracted or stretched to assume the required configuration, which becomes iiXed by the said gummy substance as it dries under the influence of heat. In view ot' this it is important while giving the flaring and curved form to such a front to have the tips or ends of Y the strip of `buckram or other material held in the position relatively to each other which they are to have when the bonnet is completed, otherwise the regularity and grace of the curvature will be quence the bonnet will not be so handsome, nor will it be as comfortable to the wearer. This desideratum has been accomplished by my invention in the following manner, viz :k

Ou a suitable table, a., I place a flanged or other plate, b, to which is properly fitted the lower edge ot'a hollow mold or die, 0,7made oi' copper or other suitable metal. rlhe outer polished surface presents the curved and flaring shape required to be given to the bonnetfront. The surface is only so much wider than any one bonnet-front that all variety of sizes, if desired, may be developed upon it, as represented in Fig. 2, where the smallest and the largest size are indicated by dotted lines. The form of the surface of this mold or die presents a slightly convex line on the vertical plane of the section, Fig. 3, which corresponds with the middle or upper part of the front, and a deeply concave line on the opposite side, which will be midway between the two ends of the front, as indicated by the dotted line l l of Fig. 2, and the dotted lines indicating the ,position of the fronts on the mold. This surface, from the line of greatest convexity, gradually changes to concavity on either side until it reaches the line of greatest concavity on the opposite side ofthe axis of the mold. From this it will be seen that the size of the bonnet front to be produced will not only depend upon the size of the strip of material from which it is to be made, but also upon the distance between its two ends when placed and held on the mold, as indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 2. And it will also be seen that as the strip of buckram, cut of the around the mold, as represented by dotted lines in Fig. 2, only small portions of it will touch the concave and convex surface of the mold, and that by reason of its elasticity the the bonnet has been finished, and in conseform represented in Fig. 4, is flat, when bent ends will tend constantly to spread outand pressed; and althoughI deem thecutting out leave the mold.l From this nit follows that .of `a part of the matrix the mostconvenient when pressure is applied to make it assume device to enable the operator to control the the form ofthe mold the ends must be held in ends of the strip of material to be molded, proper position until the pressure is upon it. nevertheless I do not wish to confine myself This mold, as before stated, is hollow to reto'such mode, as other equivalent modes may ceive a heater, d, and for the `convenience of besubstituted. i putting it in and taking it out the top of the I am aware that m lds have longsince been mold, is lprovided with a flanged cover, t 5, usedfor pressing bonnetffronts, but on a prinbut the heater, if desired, may be introduced ciple entirely different from my said invention, in any other suitable manner. It is necessary, the matrix in such cases having been made to however, that while working the mold should move toward and from themold .in a radial be kept at a temperature of 1500 to 2000, .line,.instead ofmovingin the line of the axis, to soften the moistened gummy substance and in consequence the complete form required of the buckram while it is being pressed could not be given, as a form exceeding the into the required form, and also to Vevapohalf of a circle could not be produced'by such rate the moisture to reharden the gum, that means, and even when reaching erp-approachit may retain the form which has been given ing half la circle the pressure applied to the l'to thefabric by the mold. ToL the outside ends was necessarily very imperfect `and had of this lmold or die isaccuratelyiited a maa tendency, by friction, to tear apart the matetrix orv upper die, e,4 also made of polished rial subjected to the pressure; but by my said sheet-copper or other suitable metal, the inventionI am notlimited to the half of a'circle, upper part of which is connected with alever, and the required form complete Vfor bonnetv f, by means of two curved strips of metal,2 2, fronts can be produced. And I am also aware placed at right angles with each other, and by ythat it hasbeen proposedto press bonnets and a vbolt passing through a holey in the strips of bonnet-frames entire by n a4 mold and matrix metal and the lever j', which said lever is to with the matrix moving in the line of the axis; be operated in any suitable manner to work butin such cases the result obtainedby mysaid the matrix or upper die up and down alterinvention could not be produced, because the nately to make and relievethe pressure. Pins vmold was not provided with heaters to keep 3 3 project from the outer surface of this up the required heat to soften'the moistened matrix to receive heaters. A yportion of this gummy substance and resolidify it while unmatrix is cut out, as at q g, so as to'leavethe der pressure to preserve the form required, extreme ends of the. 'strip of buckram, when and by reason of the 'great height of the mold laid on the mold, exposed, as represented in a range of motion was required to ibe given to Fig.v l, that the operator may conveniently n 1 the matrix, which vrenderedthc apparatus of direct and hold them to'any of a series of marks, 5 5 and 6 6, according to required size no practical utility, and, what is of greater importance, no mode was provided by which of bonnetfronts required to be produced. y

As the Imold c need not extend beyond a the operator could direct, adjust, and control the ends of the strip for forming the front durheight requiredforthe production of the smalling the ap ilication of pressure. I do not est size of bonnet-"fronts, a very slight upward therefore wish' to be understood as making motion of the-matrix will enable the operator1 clai1n,broadly, to the combination'of arnold and to introduce the strip of buckram, which he matrix'for pressing bonnets or bonnet-fronts; does by taking the two ends andbringing them but to either of the series of marks 5 5 0r6 6, and WhatI do claim as my invention, and desire there holding them while the matrix is brought to siecure'by Letters Patent, `is .downr to make the required pressure. This Thehollow metallic mold, substantially such lpressure should be relieved to permit the vaas described, ofthe form required to give the por Ainduced by the heat to escape, aud'then complete form required for bonnetfronts, and reapplied, that the gummy substance may be provided with a mode of imparting toit the `dried and hardened while the form ispreserved required temperature, and the matrix of corby Vcontact with the moldA andA matrix. responding form tomake pressure by a motion The best Inodeiof operating the matrix is to in or nearly in the line' of the axis, when the lift it bya springacting on the lever. and depress it` to make pressure, by a treadle connectedin anysuitable manner with the said said mold and matrix arey used in connection and 1n combination with the means herein den lever f; but as thisarran'gement of mechanism is very familiar it is not deemed necessary to scribed for controlling the position of the strip represent it-.` The convenience of this arran geto be pressed, or any equivalent therefor, as set forth;

ment will be manifest, as it4 enables the operator to work the matrixwith one foot, leavin ghis hands free to'control the material to be WHITTEN E. KIDD.i

Witnesses:

WM. H. Bisnor, JOEL B. 'WILsoN. f

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