USRE1805E - Improvement in sewing-machines - Google Patents

Description

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UNITED STATES.

KASIMIR VOGEL, OF CHELSEA, ASSIG'NOR TO I HE UNION BUTTON HOLE AND EMBROIDERY MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

livneRoviaMlaNr INSEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 25,692, dated October 4, 1859; Reissue N0. l,80`5. dated November 1, 1864.

To all 'whom 'it may corwem.-

scain the State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and Improved Sewing-Machine; and I do herebydeclare that the followingis a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which- Figure l is a front view ofv a machine with all my improvements, but representingthe bedplate in section and part of the stationary arm broken-away to expose the working parts.v Fig. 2 is an end View of the same with the bed-plate in section. Fig. 3 is an inverted plan ot' the same. Fig.4 is a section of one of the needles employed. Fig. 5 is a plan view of all the stitch-making apparatus that can be seen above the plate on which the 'sewing' is performed. Fig. 6 is a front .view ot' the mere stitch-inaking parts ofthe machinein a diiferent position to that shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 7 is a side view corresponding with Fig. 6. Fig.'8 is an inverted lplan ofi tliep'arts below the work-plate, corresponding with Figs.,6 and 7. Fig.9 will be hereinafter explained. Figs. 10,11,12, and 13 are views of some of the different kinds of stitches made bythe machine.'

Similar letters and4 numbers of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several tigures.

The first part of my invention relates to the forming of seams suitable for button-holes or edging that the threads which pass around and over and form the edge shall be interlaced or united on both sides of thematerial with the -seam which is formed through Vthe material by' the side'of the edge; and this part of my invenv tion consists in combining with the eye-pointed needle, which carries its thread through the material for forming the seam' within the edge, or what is to become the edge, a suitable instrument operating above the material, and a suitable instrument operating below the material for interlacing or uniting the thread which formsv the edge with the thread which forms the seam within the edge.

1 The second part of my invention relates to the introduction of a thread or cord, termed a bar, on the surface ot' the material and unden the thread or threads that connect two seams, or under the thread or threads that pass around the edge and extend to the seam with-4 in the edge; .and this part ot' my invention consists in the employmentot' a suitable guide or guides for introducing and laying a thread or cord,termed a bar, on one or both surfaces ofthe material and under the connecting thread 'or' threads, in combination with the sewing mechanism or the equivalent thereof and the mechanism or the equivalent thereof for passin g the thread or threads over and across the said bar or bars.

vTo enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I `will proceed to describe its construction and operation.

`A is the horizontal plate or bed, on which the material is placed to be sewed..

B is the stationary arm, to which, is,secured a stationary guide-block, B', contain-inge, guide forthe slider C, which carries the two needles a b, and also a guide for the slider E, to which the feed-wheel E', operating on the upper surface of the material,is attached. The material in the drawings with the other parts of the 'machine. The slider E has the feed-wheel lE' connected with it by the pin or axle c, on whichit rotates, and the sliderE has applied to its upper end a spring, E2, which operates substantially like the springs appliedfto the pressure pads of most sewing-machines, and to press the wheel downupon the material. f

.The 'feed-wheel E' has securely attached to it a spur-wheel, d, which gears with another spur-wheel, e', on one end of a short shaft, e, which is fitted to turn in a bearingin the slider E, and on the other end of the said shaft there is a ratchet-wheel, e2, which is acted upon. to produce the rotation of the feed-wheel at proper intervals by means of a pawl, f, represented by dotted lines in Fig. 2.

.' The feed motion is given tothe ratchet-wheel sented by dtted lines in Fig. 2

e2 by a lever, G, which vibrates on the short shaft e, on which the ratchet-wheel turns, this lever havingr attached to it the pawlf. (ReprerI he upper 1he xed arm B; The other arm of the said on afulcrum-pin, h, (see Fig. 1,) projecting from lever extends down below and through a hole lin the table A, and its lower end is connected by a rod, H', with a crank-pin, k, on the main shaft I, which is mounted in hangers it uiider the table. ln this way the lever El is vihrated once every revolution of the main shaft I, so that the pin g, which is carried by the lever H,

works up and down in the slot, which is ob` lique, and vibratesthe pawl-lever to turn the ratchet-wheel to,impart the required feed inotion to the feed-wheel.v As the pawl-lever vibrates on the shaftof the ratchet-wheel they together move up and down with the slider E,

kwhich carries theurand the feed-wheel, so that their operative relations are not changed by any variation in the thickness of the material to be sewed.

The regulation of the range of feed for determining the length of stitches is effected by changing the inclination of the slot g', in which the ping works. To renderthis adjustable the part of the pawl-lcver G in which the slot g is formed is separate from and attached to the other part by a hinged joint, j, and a fasteningscrew,j, which passes through a curved slot, i2, concentric with the hinged joint.. In this way the slot g'ca-n be set at any desired inclination to give a-ny desired range of feed.

- lThe lever H serves-another purpose-as will be presently described,-besides that of operating the feed-wheel once at every revolution of the main4 shaft I. I

- l J is the lever for operatingthe needle-slider (J, whichcarries th e needles a b, said lever working on the samefulerum-pin, h, as the lever H, but on the opposite side of the arm B. The

upper end'of this lever J is connected by av through the plateA in the usual mannery and'where the said needles pass through a large opening is made in the said plate, covered by a thin steel plate, K, having a hole, l, Figs. l, 2, and 3, no larger than is necessary for the two 'needles and their threads to work through. This needle-plate K is not a fixed plate containing but the v`one hole such as is used in manyother machines, but is fitted to turn in a circular cavity provided for it in the plate A, and is provided with several holes, n n, of different sizes and forms, and differently arranged to suit needles of different sizes, some of the said holesbein'g-.torjsingle needles and some for two'. By turn-inglthesid-plate inthe -calvity of the /plate A either ofthe different holes l .n nfmay be presented-in position toreceive'the needle or-needles for which it is.A

When the needle-slider C has such adapted. needle or needles fitted toit, and when lthe said plate is properly-adjusted, it is prevented from turning by means of a spring-stop, p, Figs. l. and 3, attached to the bottom of the plate A, and entering one of a series of holes, q q, formed in it; and it is still further secured by a set-screw, m, which passes through a hole.

iu' its center and screws into the'plate A. The same result ym ay be obtained by providing several holes in a-4 straight `needle-plate and tting itxto slide lengthwise in the plate A, so that it may be adjusted to present either hole in position to receive the needle or needles.

L, Figs.' 1, 2, and 3, is what I have before sp'okenot' as the interlacing-needle. also represented detached and in section in Fig. 4.

This needle is substantially like lwhat isused in some machines, making what is known as the double-loop7 stitch, having its eyer, Fig. 4, running in a longitudinal direction, with both orifices on the upper side of the needle. The said needle is attached to or formed of the same pieceof steel with asinall lever, L', which works on a fixed fulcrum', s, carried-by abracket, L2, below the plate A, and derives its m0- tion from a grooved cam, ll, on the shaft I, the connection-with the said cam being made by a rod, L3, carrying a stud, t, which'works in the groove t of the said cain,the said rod being guided in its movement by a slot, t2, prol and on opposite sides of the stationary arm B.

From these spools the two threads, whichare represented respectively of green and'red color, for the sake ot' distinction,pass lhrougha thread-con troller, N, of well-known construction, over a. guide, fn, att-ached to the needleslider C, under a spring, e', attached to thc' arm B, and down to the eyes of the needles a b. The requisite tension is produced upon the -said threads bythe friction of springs 0,0', applied to press jupon the body of thread on the spools. P is a. spool of thread for supplying the under needle, L, placed upon a xed spindle, w, on one side of the arm B. vFrom this spool the thread (represented in blue color) passes down under a guide, x, (see Fig.1,) attached to the lever H, and along a groove,yy,in

the top of the plate A,`and from thence down.

through au opening i'n the vsaid plate'to lthe poses, and R* is a spring for pressing on the 1 spool R to produce the -necessary tension'on its thread. This thread or cord passes down from the spool R to the groove y, .before described,

inthe top of the table-A, and then through an oblique hole'tdthe under side of the table, and thenceitpasses upth rough a small hole, l',inthe plate K by theside of the hole through which the needles' a b work. This thread or cord, termed a bar, is to be drawn through a short distance and laid on the surface of the-'plate Kin the direction in which the feed-motion operates, and the material to be sewed is laid on it, and therefore it extends over the hole through which the two needles-cboperate, that one of them may pass on each side of it, so that the thread or threads which form the union of the two seams through the material and over the edge of the button-hole or edging shall be united or interlaced below the bar, and therehy secure it to the surface of the material. The bar thus introduced and secured will give a proper finish and better appearance to the button-hole or edge or embroidery or double seam than can be obtained without it. If desired, this thread or cord, or another like it from another spool similarly mounted, may be conducted above the table Athrough a suitable guide and laid on the upper surface of the material, taking care to so locate the guide thatl itshall bear a similar relation to the parts as the guide-hole 'L' does for introducing it tothe under surface S, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, is the hook by whose aid the needle L ei'ects the intel-lacing of its thread with the threads ofthe needles a b, the long stem S of said hook being hinged to and carried by two vibrating arms, T U, of different lengths, which work horizontally below the plate A onl fixed pins 11 and 12, secured in the said plate. The movement ot' 'the said hook, whose character will be presently described, is produced under the control of the arms T U by theconnection ot' its stem by a link, V, with a rod, W, which rod is operated upon by a grooved cam, 12, on the shaft I, thegroove 13 of lthe said cam receiving a stud, 14, on the said rod', andthe said rod being guided in the operation thus produced by its having a slot, 15, provided in it to receive and slide on' the shaft l.

'Z, Fig. 2,is a springlpresser, attached by a set-screw, 17, to abent arm, 18, that .is secured rigidly to the slider E, to press upon the' material being sewed close in front of the needles, for the purpose ot' pressing the material tirm and flat as it pa'sses ou toward the needles. This presser has a small tooth-like downward projection,21, Fig. 2, at one side of its extremity to entera button-hole and serve 'u a guide to the edge thereof, and enable the material in'which thev button-hole is being y R is a spool of thread placed on worked to be turned to work' all round the hole. This form of presser is useful in all operations of sewingy over an edge; but for other kinds oftion of-.the feed-movement on a pin, 19, which attaches it tothe back ot' the guide-block B. The saidspring by its ilexure also permits the plate to swing 'back and forth in a direction parallel with the feed-movement and toward and from the needles, and hence the plate Y and attached finger arel capable of two horizontal movements at right angles to each other. The lingerY ispointed at its lower extremity and has a recess, 30, Fig. 5, in one side near the point. It is in itself elastic in an upward and downward direction; but in order that its point may move downward with great freedom, as it is required to doin the formation of the stitch, as will be presently described, the said finger is made in the form of a lever and attached to'the 'plate Y by a'horizon tal fulcrum-pin, 22, Fig.2, and a light spring, 23, is applied t0 it above the said fulcrum to hold it back against the said plate; but this pin permits the descent of the lower extremity of the finger to be effected by a very gentle downward pressure. The upper part of the plate AY has a horizontal sec- Ation of the form of three sides ot' a quadrangle,

as shown in Fig. 9, which is given to 'illustratiethe form. In the front and back of tliesaid plate there are two curved slots, 24, Figs. l

and 6, to receive the two projecting ends of u pin, 25, which passes through and is secured in a vertical sliding bar, 26, which receives a vertical motion in a guide within the guideblock B' from the lever H, before described, as operating the feed, the said sliding bar 26 being connected with the said lever by a link, 27, Fig. 1. In the left-hand sideof said plate Y' there is a slot, 28, Figs, 2 and 7, which receives a pin, 29, which is secured to the sliding bar 26, but arranged at right angles to the pin 25. The'vertical movement of the pins 25 and 29,'with` the bar 26,producesthe two horizontal movements ofthe plate Y and attached finger Y, before mentioned, as being permitted by the elastic swinging arni Y. At the boty in Figs. 1o and 11. l In this stitch the threads of the perforatingneedles are interlaced on that. side of the material at which they enter.

ci procatin g motion produced by the-c rank-pin k, are rising, and the longer one, b, is withdrawn but a short distance from thc material. The needle L has just previously advanced to the position in which it is stationary during about two-thirds of the time occupied in the ascent and descent of the performing-needles, and has received upon 'it a loop ofthe threa-d ot' each perforatingneedle. The hook S is also stationary between the top of the needle L and the plate K, with its point just behind the said needle; and the linger Y hasjust been moved forward by the action of' the pin 29 in the slot 2:5 of the plate Y and brought its recess 30 to a position to receive within it they thread, which is extended between the -point ot' the needle a and th'e lnaterial. As .the perforatv ing-needles complete their ascent the tiuger Y commences to be moved laterally across their path below theirpoints by the action of ihepin 25 in the slots 24, and at the same lime it is permitted to be moved rapidly forward by the spring Y as the end ofthe slider() passesthe projection 31. During the first part of the descent of the'perforating-needles the lateral movement of the finger Y across the path ot' the .needles continues, and the finger coinmences to move backward, and by these o erations of the finger-and the operation o the .ieedwhich takes place in a'directionaway from the front vot' the machine, the thread of the needle a is bent in such a manner be Ween the material and its eye, as shown inl 1 gs. l und 2, which representthe needles'a b descending, and in'dotted outline in Fig. 5, that the longer needle, b, will passinto the said bend, and so cause a loop of the thread of the needle a' to be formed around the needle b and to be retained by the thread of the latter needle alter the said needle itself is withdrawn. Duri ing the'jlrst part of the descent of t-he needles .and the above-described simultaneous operation of the tingerY the hook'Smoves round the front of the needles from the position shown' 1 .,i'ngFig. 8 to that shown in Fig. 3, for the purpose of catching the thread ofthe needle L between the said needle and the plate K, and drawing it into the form of a loop into a suitable positio (represented iny Fig. 3) for' the perforating-needles to enter, anduwhen the points of the said needles have entered the said loop the hook returns again to the firstdescribed position, and there again becomes stationary. The needle L retires again from the loops of the pert'orat-ing-needle threads, which it has previously retained, just aslthose needles have entered the loop' of its own thread, and so draws its loop tightly around those needles, and immediately afterward advances again to pass between them and their threads as their upward movement commences, and so forms new loops ot' those threads, which it retains until theperl'orating-needles have again entered the loop of its own thread, when it retires again, as above mentioned.

By theabove operation the thread of oneof the performing-needles is made to pass around the thread of the other one on the upper side of the material, and both the said threads are formed into loops, which are made'to protrude through the material to pass into one loop and receive the succeeding one formed on the opposite side kby the third thread carried by the needle L. I

.or one of said needles passing'through and the other passing over the edge, the latter mode rof operation serving for button-hole working or for finishing any edge, and the former for making seams, embroidering, or any. other kind of work. By simply making the short er perforatingfneedle, a, so much shorter than b that in its descent its point will not arrive low enough to enter the loopof the thread of the needle L till that needle has retired and taken itsloop outiof the way, and without any further alterationof the machine, the thread of the needle a willnot be carried into the loops of theA thread carried by the needle L, and consequently the latter willonly be in-- terlaced with the thread carried by the other pertorat'ingfneedle, b; butv this, if the needle a is not too' much shortened, will `not y prevent the needle L from entering and placing its loops inthe loops of they threadsot' both needles a and b, and so making 4a secure stitch.V The stitch thus formed will present on-th'e up! per surface of the material the same structure as that represented in Fig. 10, and previously described', but will present on the underside of the materialthe structure represented in Fig. 12. By tak-ing away one of the performing-needles, as well as the finger Y, the machine will be in a suitable condition for making the well-'known double-looped stitch. By using more than two performing-needles further varieties otfancy stitches can be produced.

The movement of the needle L is so timed relatively tothe movements of the perforatingneedle slider C that by using the said needle without thread, in combination with one or more performing-needles carrying thread, it may at each perforation catch the thread of each .perforating-nedle and retain it in the form of a loop until the next perforation is commenced, and so cause the thread of each 'perlorating-needle to be left in the cloth or other material -in the form shown in Fig. 13,

which represents a section of the material through the perforations made by one of the needles. The loops 32 32, protruded through the material, may be left whole or cut to produce a pile, and in either form, if the rows of loops are made very close together, a very beautiful nap-like appearance will be produced, which will be very eifective in embroidery. In doing this kind of stitching the material 4should be placed in the machine with its face downward, that the perforating needle or needles may enter from the back.

I do not claim the use of two or' more per- ,forating -needles for carrying two or more threads `through a pieceI of cloth or other ma terial in the form of loops,- in combination with a shuttle or a needle for carrying a ,lockingthreadthrough both or all ol' said loops, as I am aware thatsuch a combination of two needles and a shuttle has been used. Neither do I claim of itself the employment of a hook be- -low the needle-plate to extendv the loop of a locking-thread; nor do I claim a thread-conductor above the cloth to carry an interlocking-thread around either needle, as Iam aware that such things have been used; but

I do claim as my invention and desire to se' cure by Letters Patent-L- 1. In combination with the needle whichcar- .ries .its thread through the cloth, combined with suitable means below for concatenating the stitches to form a seam within the edge, or what is to be the edge, the employment-ot' the thread-conductor or the equivalent thereof for uniting the thread which passes over the edge to make the. edge-finish with t-he seam within the edge, substantially as described, and for the purpose set forth.

2'. The employment of a guide orguides for introducingand laying a thread or cord, termed a f bar,77 on one or both surfaces of the material parallel with the seam and under the conmeeting thread or threads, substantially as described, in combination with the sewing mechanism or the equivalent thereof and the mechanism .or the equivalen-t thereof for passing` the thread'or threads over and across said bar orbars, substantially as described. i KAsrMrR VOGEL.

W'itnesses:

WM. H. BISHOP, ANDREW .DE LACY.

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