US998604A - Shoe. - Google Patents

Description

P. H. DQHBRTY..

SHOE.

APPLIOATION FILED N0v.12, 190e.

l Patented July r.25, 1911.

l/l//T/VESSES a, Fig? Mcy( IINIFIE S PATRICK H. DOI-IER'IY, OE AVON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, 0F PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE.

To all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, PATRICK II. DOHERTY, a citizen of the United States, residing at- Avon, in the county of Norfolk and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the following descriptiomin connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specilication, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invent-ion relates to shoes and more particularly to stitch down shoes.

A stitch down shoe is one having a portion of the edges of the upper outturned, the sole being attached direct-ly to the outturned portion. In this class of shoes the upper may be outturned and stitched down to the sole all the way around including the heel portion, but it is ordinarily preferred to last in the heel portion of the shoe in the usual manner. This latter construction results in having the forepart of the shoe with the edges of the upper outturned and stitched down, and the heel portion with the edges of the upper inturned and lasted on to the heel seat. Lasting in the heel portion gives a much preferred style of shoe and a more desirable method of making the same than where the upper is outturned and stitched down all the way around. In order to have the upper at the heel inturned and lasted as above mentioned, it is necessary in stitch down shoes to provide an insole at the heel portion or tosplit the sole in from the back of the heel end, thus providing a tongue upon which t-he heel portion of the upper could be lasted, or to last in the heel portion upon the entire thickness of the sole. In each of the three constructions just described a very objectionable joint or jog is formed on each side of the shoe where the outturned portions and inturned portions of the upper abut, and the appearance of a shoe with this jog is most unsatisfactory.

In a co-pending application of James Cava-nagh, Jr., is illustrated a novel con- Speecation of Letters Patent.

Application led November 12, 1908.

Patented July 25, 1911.

serial No. 462,275.

struct-ion of a stitch down shoe, and it is an object of this invention to improve the shoe therein shown.

It is also an object of this invention to improve the appearance and construction of stitch down shoes and more particularly to obviate any unsightly jog in the connectionbetween the upper and the sole and to provide a method of construction therefor.

In the preferred form of the invention as shown in the drawings, means are provided whereby the sole edge appears to extend continuously over the jog at the juncture of the outturned and inturned portions of the upper and entirely around the heel. This enables a stitch down shoe to be given a iinish andV appearance at the connection of the upper and sole which will be almost as satn isfactory as that of a Goodyear welt shoe.

An important advantage of the preferred construction embodying this invention is that the formation of a firm and satisfactory heel seat in stitch down shoes is greatly facilitated.

Other features, combination of parts, and details of construction will be hereinafter more particularly described and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings showing in a preferred form a stitch down shoe of this invention,-Figure 1 is a view in perspective of an upper which may be conveniently used in the embodiment of the invention herein shown, a section of the heel portion being broken away; Fig. 2 is a View in perspective of a sole used in making the preferred form of the shoe of this invention, a portion of the upper tongue being omitted; Fig. 3 shows the heel end of the upper lasted in upon the upper tongue of the split portion of the sole shown in Fig. 2, a part of the lower tongue being omitted; Fig. LI shows a suitable heel rand for use in the shoe; Fig. 5 illustrates in cross section the heel portion of the shoe when ready for the application of the heel; Fig. 6 shows a modified construction; and Fig. 7 illustrates the completed shoe embodying this invention.

The numeral 2 designates the upper before it is attached to the sole 4, said upper being preferably slit in from its lower edge at 6 where the joint between the inturned and outturned portions will occur to facilitate turning these portions in opposite directions. The sole 4 is preferably split in from the rear end as shown in Fig. 2 and the upper tongue S is preferably cut back to a depth approximately equal to the thickness of the upper and counter to be lasted in upon said tongue. Thus shoulders 9, 9 are formed substantially at the point of juncture of the inturned and outturned portions of the upper. lVith the upper and sole thus prepared the rst step in making the preferred form of the shoe of this invention after the parts have been assembled upon a last consists in lasting in the heel portion of the upper over the upper tongue S of the split portion of the sole 4.

The slits 6 in the upper are intended to coincide in position with the shoulders 9 upon the sole, and the upper, after the heelv portion is lasted, has the remainder of its edge portions from the slits 6 forward turned out and stitched down upon the sole 4 from the shoulders 9 forward. If desired a welt 10 may be fastened down upon the outturned edges of the upper.

After the upper and sole had been attached as thus described and as partly illustrated in Fig. 3, it was Vproposed to attach the lower tongue 12 directly to the upper tongue 8 and complete the shoe in the ordinary manner. But such a construction left the very objectionable and unsightly jog at the shoulders 9 as previously mentioned. rlherefore, in constructing the shoe of this invention a rand 14 is attached to the lasted heel seat shown in Fig. 3. This rand is preferably beveled and extends from one shoulder 9 around the heel portion of the sole to the other shoulder 9, and preferably has its outer edge approximately of equal thickness to the combined thickness of the tongue 8, upper 2 and welt 10. Thus a smooth appearance is insured in the entire sole edge of the shoe and a much better and more satisfactory heel seat for the shoe may be formed. After the rand 14 is applied the lower tongue 12 may be attached to the upper tongue S, the attaching means preferably engaging the upper 2 and rand 14, as shown in Fig. 5, and a heel is then attached to the i heel end of the shoe in the usual manner.

desired to attach the lower tongue 12 to the upper tongue simultaneously with the attachment of the heel and by the same fastenings, thus saving one of the steps in the method of construction above described.

ln Fig. 6 is illustrated a modified form of t-he shoe of this invention in which the heel portion of the upper is lasted over the bottom of the sole, the sole not being split in from the rear end as in the form of the invention just described. The sole is formed with shoulders similar to the shoulders 9 in Fig. 2, only the shoulders in the form shown in Fig. 6 extendv through the sole. The rand 14 may be applied directly to the heel seat shown in this form of the invention and the heel may be then atiiXed to t-he heel portion of the sole as thus prepared.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. A shoe comprising a sole split in from its rear end, a heel, an upper lasted in upon the upper tongue of the split portion of said sole and turned out and stitched down along the edge of the remainder of the sole, and a rand lying between the lasted part of t-he upper and the lower tongue of said split portion of the sole.

2. A shoe comprising a sole split in from its rear end, a heel, an upper lasted in upon the upper tongue of the split portion and turned out and stitched down along the edge of the remainder of the sole, and a rand lying on top of the lower tongue and attached to both tongues of said split portion of the sole.

3. A shoe comprising an upper and a sole, said sole being provided with shoulders at the forward end of the heel portion, said upper being lasted in upon the heel end'of said sole back of said shoulders and turned out and stitched down forward of said shoulders along the edge portion of the sole, and a rand extending around the heel portion of the sole from one of said shoulders to the other.

4. A shoe comprising an upper and a sole, said sole being provided with shoulders on each side of the heel portion, said upper being lasted in upon the sole back of said shoulders and turned out and stitched down forward of said shoulders, and a rand eX- tending around the heel portion kof the sole from one shoulder to the other and abutting upon each shoulder, the top of the edge of said rand being in the same plane as the top of the sole at the shoulder where it abuts, whereby a smooth appearance of the entire sole edge is obtained.

5. A shoe comprising an upper and a sole split in from its rear end, said upper being lastedA in upon the upper tongue of the split port-ion of the sole and turned out and stitched down along the edge of the remainder of the soie, said sole being provided with name to this specification in the presence of shoulders at the juncture of the inturred two subscribing Witnesses. and outturned portions of the upper, an a rand extending around the heel portion of PATRICK H DOHERTY 5 the sole from one of said shoulders to the qWitnesses:

other. JAMES R. HODDER,

In testimony whereof I have signedV my F REDERIGK L. EDMANDS.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

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