US998258A - Tailoring instrument. - Google Patents

Description

Patented July 18, 1911.

2 SHEETS-8131111171.

amen W045 G. OSBORNE. TAILORING INSTRUMENT.

ill.

APPLIOATIOH FILED IEB.17, 1911. 998,258.

MUM-IA FLNQURAPH CO, WASHINGTON D- C- Gerirude asZor-rze UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GERTRUDE OSBORNE, OF NEOGA, ILLINOIS.

TAILORING INSTRUMENT.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GERTRUDE OSBORNE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Neoga, county of Cumberland, and State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailoring Instruments, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to tailoring instruments and particularly to an instrument adapted for use in drafting patterns for ladies waists, coats, etc.

The object of my invention is to provide a drafting instrument as mentioned having curved edges by means of which the various curves necessary in drafting the patterns may be readily drawn.

A further object of my invention is to provide a device as mentioned provided with symbols along the curved edges indicative of the starting points for the curves to be used.

A further object of my invention is to provide a device of the class under consideration whereby a single instrument is adapted for use in drafting patterns for garments of various sizes and dimensions.

My invention will be more readily understood by reference to the accompanying drawing forming a part of this specification and in which- Figure 1 is a plan view of one face of the instrument, Fig. 2 is a similar viewof the reverse side thereof and, Fig. 3 is a diagram illustrating a pattern as laid out by means of the instrument.

The instrument comprises a thin flat member 1 which may be made of any suitable material such as wood, metal, celluloid, papier-mach, etc. The device is of general wedge shape and is formed on one edge with a straight edge or portion 2 extending the greater length of the instrument and terminating at the broader end in a curve 3 of increasing curvature. The opposite edge is formed with a slightly convex portion 4: extending from the smaller end and increasing in curvature at about the center, as at 5, and then merging into a reversed curve 6 at the broader end of the instrument, the end of the edge 6 terminating at substantially right angles to the end of the curve 3. The straight edge 2 is divided into inches on both sides and upon one side the inches are divided into fourths and eighths and on the other side into thirds and siXths. The curved edge 3 is also graduated on one side Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed February 17, 1911.

Patented July 18, 1911. Serial No. 609,195.

as indicated in Fig. l and provided with symbols marked y z, A, B C, D, and E to indicate starting points for the curves to be used in laying out the pattern, and the opposite face is provided with corresponding symbols indicated by the same letters accompanied by the letter X as indicated in Fig. 2, whereby the same curves may be used for laying out opposite sides of the pattern and for other uses as will appear hereinafter. The curved edge 1, 5, 6 is provided at certain points 6 1 77, (C 2 77, (C 3 7" (4 4: 7,, 5 77, and 6 together with the point X where the curves 3 and 6 intersect, and the reverse side is provided with corresponding symbols to which have been added the letter X,

said symbols also indicating starting points for the several curves to be used.

Before laying off a pattern with the instrument it is necessary to obtain a number of measurements from the party for which the garment is intended, namely, neck meas ure, front measure, curve point measure, back measure, depth of arm scye, width of back, under arm measure arm scye point, bust point measure, neck point measure, dart point measure, waist measure, front shoulder point measure, first back shoulder point measure, and second back shoulder point measure. These measurements are obtained as follows: neck measure is taken around lower edge of collar; front measure is taken straight down front from lower edge of collar to waist line; curve point measure is the distance from the front of base of collar to point of greatest curve on front line; back measure is taken from lower edge of collar to waist line in back; depth of'arm scye is taken from neck at center back to line around bust under arms and called scye line; width back is taken from center back along scye line to arm scye; under arm measure is taken from scye to waist line measuring directly downwardly under the arm; arm scye point is found by measuring from center back along scye line to point on arm scye, where the front should begin. to curve up toward the shoulder; bust point measure is found by measuring from arm scye point to center front over fullest part of bust; neck point measure is found by measuring from arm scye point across to point on neck one third of neck measure back from center front of neck; dart point measure is found by measuring down from neck point to most prominent point of bust; waist measure is taken close around waist; front shoulder point measure is found by measuring straight up from arm scye point to shoulder seam; first back shoulder point measure is found by measuring from width of back point straight up to shoulder seam; second back shoulder point measure is found by measuring from neck point straight down to scye line.

After the above measurements are ascertained the pattern is drafted in the following manner; the measures assume to be neck 13, front 15, curve point 7-}, back 15 depth arm scye 7 width back 67}, under arm 8, arm scye point 101 bust point 8%, neck point 9-}, dart point 10 waist 24, front shoulder point 7%, first back shoulder point 5. second back shoulder point 7 9 First draw a vertical line 11 and a horizontal line 12 intersecting the same and mark the point of intersection A. From the point A on the vertical line measure downwardly the length of back and place the point B and from B draw a horizontal line 13. On the vertical line 11 mark off from A the depth of arm scye and place the point O, and from the point C draw the horizontal line 1a. Place a point D on the line 11 at the center of the distance AO and draw a horizontal line 15. On the line 12 mark the point F at a distance from A equal to one-sixth of the neck measure. From F measure upwardly one half inch and place the point G and through A and G draw a line with the instrument placing the symbol O at the point A. Place a point E on the line 13 one and one fourth inches from B and through A and E draw a straight line 16 which constitutes the center line of the back. \Vhere the lines 14 and 16 intersect place a point H and on the line 1 1 mark off the distance H-H equal to the width ofthe back. At the point H erect a perpendicular l7 and on this mark the point I at a distance from H equal to first back shoulder point distance. Place the point J to' the left of I three eighths of an inch and through the points J and G draw a curved line with the instrument placing the point or symbol 4 at J. At the intersection of the lines 15 and 17 place a point K and one inch below K place a point M.

On the line 13 place a point L one and one fourth inches from E and draw the line LM with the instrument placing the symbol 3X at the point L. At one inch from the point L, and on the line 13, mark a point N and mark a point L at the intersection of the line ML and the line 14. WVith the instrument draw the line L -N using the symbol 5 as a starting point.

' Place a point O one fourth inch below N.

Mark a point P on the line 14: at a distance from H equal to the arm scye point dis tance and to the right of the point P mark a point Q at the distance of one inch from the point P. From Q drop a perpendicular 1S and where this intersects the line 13 mark a point R, the distance QR being equal to the under arm measure. Draw a straight line-connecting O and R. Mark the points S and T one half inch to the right and left of R respectively and connect the points T and S each with the; point Q by curved lines drawn with the instrument using the points fl: and el-X as starting points.

One inch above A mark the point g and with the distance y-P as a radius draw the are 19. Place a point Z on the are 1!) at a distance from P equal to the neck point distance. 'At P erect a perpendicular 20 and on this place a point aa at a distance from P equal to the front shoulder point distance. Through the points Z and (1a draw a curved line with the instrument using the point or symbol 4X as a starting point and on this line mark the point 1)?) at a distance from Z one half inch less than the back shoulder point. Connect the points P and N) with a curved line drawn with the instrument using the symbol AX as a starting point. At one half the distance between P and H place a point X and one half an inch below this point place a point X. Connect X and M. with a curved line using the symbol Z as a starting point. From P mark on the distance equal to the bust point distance and place a point dd. From the intersection of the lines 15 and 1G draw a line 21 through the point Z and on this line place a pointcc at a distance from Z equal to one sixth of the neck measure. Draw a line 22 through the points cc and (Zd. Place a point 11 half way between the points P and (M. On the line 22 measure off the distance from cc equal to one fourth neck measure and place a point 06. From 66 mark off a distance equal to the curve point distance and place a point Draw the curved line cc Z using the symbol B as a starting point. From 60 measure off the distance equal to the front measure and place a point g. At 9 erect a perpendicular 23 to the line 22 and on this line five inches from the point gg place a point lck. On the line 23 measure ofi one inch and place a point 7th, from 7th measure off one and one half inches and place a point ii, from ii measure off one and one half inches and place a point Connect the points hit and ff with a curved line using, the symbol 4X as a startingpoint and draw the line f "ce using the symbol 4" as a starting point. With Z as a center and a distance Z--Z equal to the dart point distance draw an are 2%. On the are 2-1- mark a point mm one and one half to the left of Z and a point an three quarters of an inch to the right of Z Draw the curved line z'z'm-m using the symbol 6 as a starting point, the line jj-mm using the symbol 6X as a starting point and the line Ida-m1, using the point or symbol 6 as a starting point. From the point T measure to the left one fourth the waist measure less the distance 7s7rjy' and z'i-hh, and place a point 00. Through the points 7m and 00 draw a curve using the symbol 6X as a starting point, and on this line mark a point pp at a distance from an equal to Adv-m2 less one fourth of an inch. .Draw a curve ppT using the symbol X as a starting point.

Placea point W on the line OS equal to one half of one fourth waist measure minus width of center back section, and place a point V at the same distance from the point S. Place a point u half way between the points Q and L and connect this point with the points V and W using the symbols 4 and 4X respectively as starting points. Place a point 1 siX inches below the point B, connect points E and l with a straight line and draw the horizontal line 25. Drop a perpendicular from a point half way between the points L and N and where this intersects the line 25 placeapoint 2. Drop a perpendicular from a point half way between V and W and where this intersects the line 25 place a point 3. From S drop a perpendicular and mark the point where it intersects the line 25 as 4:. One half inch to the left of 4 mark a point 8, one and three fourths inches to the right of 4 mark a point- 9, one half inch to the right of 3 mark a point 7, one half inch to the right of 2 mark a point 5 and three fourths of an inch to the right of 2 mark a point 6. Con nect the points 5 and L with a straight line. Draw the line 60 using the symbol 1 as a starting point, the line 7V using the symbol 1 as a starting point, the line 3W using the symbol 1X as a starting point, the line 9T using the symbol 1 as a starting point, and the line 8-S using the symbol 1X as a starting point. Draw the line ppii as erect perpendiculars p;010 7c7c-11 and iz'13 and draw the lines hit-14E and jj-12 perpendicular to the line 23.

\Vhile the instrument may be used to draft various patterns, the above description of how it is used in drafting a ladys waist pattern will give a full understanding of the nature and use of the device.

Having described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

An instrument of the class mentioned formed of a sheet of flat material, tapering in width from end to end and having on one edge a straight portion terminating at the broader end in a curved portion of increasing curvature, the opposite edge being slightly convex from the smaller end and gradually increasing in curvature at about the center and then merging gradually into a reverse curve at the broader end of the instrument, the end of the reverse curve terminating at substantially right angles to the end of thefirst mentioned curve of the opposite edge, the straight portion of the edge being graduated and the curved portions of the edges being provided at certain intervals on each side with corresponding symbols, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GERTRUDE OSBORNE.

Witnesses:

CLAUDE MoKINNY, FAYE Voms.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

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