US98064A - Improvement in sewing-machine - Google Patents

Improvement in sewing-machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US98064A
US98064A US98064DA US98064A US 98064 A US98064 A US 98064A US 98064D A US98064D A US 98064DA US 98064 A US98064 A US 98064A
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needle
thread
ring
lever
sewing
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B15/00Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/025Shoe sewing machines for sewing moccasin-type seams

Definitions

  • Our invention relates to apparatus more-especially applicable for'sewing leather, saddlery, harness, and other similar work, with waxed thread.
  • a needle andan awl are employed, havinga vertical and an adjustable horizontal movement, and are' opera- 'ted alternately, so that'the needle may pass the thread through the hole made just previously by thejawl, and before the leather is moved forward.
  • the sewing may be vcarried on with .great 'riegularity, and the material be turned in anydircct-ion, in order to execute small designs.
  • the invention relates, also, to improvements in th'e arrangement of the shuttle, whereby it is caused to pass through thc loops formed by the waxed thread, without touching it
  • Figure 1 shows a side elevation of the apparatus, on the line l 2 .
  • Figure 2 the latter being a front view 'of the same o n the line3 4, tig. l. v
  • Figure 3 shows a back view of the machine.
  • Figure 4 a View of the shuttle-mechanism on a larger scale.
  • Figure 7 an end view of the same
  • Figure 9 is an end view of the shuttle
  • Figure 10 separate view of the awl-carrier; while Figure 1l shows, in plan, the arrangement of the needle and awlcarriers in the head of the machine.
  • 1,driving-shaft mounted at the backend of the foot u, carrying a fly-wheel not shown, and receiving rotary motion either from a treadle, crank, or strap.
  • fg awl'and needle-carriers, working up and down in the head c, and having cranked ends, f1 g1, in which are iiXed the awl and needle i, carrying the waxed thread.
  • the parts f g are fitted to turn in parts j, which are guided vertically in openings 7, made laterally in the head c.
  • the driving-cams are combined iu such manner that the awl-carrier may be at thel highest position while the needle-carrier is atthe loivefst,'and viceversa.
  • This motion ⁇ is obtained by the aid of grooves x, fig. 10, in the needle and awl-carriers, in which are received the frictional studs g/,fig l1, fitted in the head-c.
  • the grooves zare so arranged that the piercer may first make the hole in the leather and then rise, after which the needle will perform the same motion, so as to pass the thread through the hole so made.
  • the thread is furnished from abobbin, l, rotating in a fork at the back of the machine-arm, the thread passing over guide-pulleys, 2, 3, 4, and thence to the needle from the tension-regulator 5,A which is tted to work up and down in the head c, and is governed by a lever, 6, iig. 3, receiving oscillating motion from a cam-groove made in the lateral face ot' disk t.
  • the hook 11l and ring 11 have rotary motion imparted to them ii'oin a lever, 29, having a rectilinear sliding motion.
  • the lever is guided in its motion by a earn-groove, 30, made in the lateral lace of disk m, producing the oscillation of a toothed segment, 31, tig. l, gearing with pinion 14.
  • the following is the action of the shuttle, andthe mode of forming the stitch, without the said shuttle being brought in Contact with the loop of waxed thread 'lhe needle 'i descends in the space between the parts 8 and 9, and forms a loop.
  • the lever 2S slides the ring 11 along so as to cover the Space, and the hook 1ll seizes the loop, iirst turning in the direction ot the arrow 32, iig. 7 and then rotating in the opposite direction so as to coil or adapt the needlc-thread to the periphery of said ring 11.
  • the shuttle then passes from part 8 to part 9 through the ring, thewaxed thread being kept on its exterior surface.
  • the shuttle-thread After the shuttle-thread has passed through the loop, the latter is disengaged from the ring 11 by a backward movement oi the ring in the direction of the arrow 33, while the .part 16, being fixed, retains the thread during the movement of the ring. The thread, on being released, then rises by the action of the tenson-regulator 5, in order to form the stitch.
  • the material being sewn is fed by a claw, 34, the Y rectilinea-rand upward movement of which is produced by a lever, 35, oscillating and sliding a part, 34, to which said claw is iitted in a downward direction.
  • l1 ⁇ l1e lever 35 receives motion from disk t by the aid of the projecting cam-surfaces 3G 37, oscillating said lever in two directions at right angles to each other.
  • the disk t also acts on a lever, 38, one end of which bears against the bobbin L, at the time the tensionregulator is iu operation, to prevent the thread from ⁇ hobos unwound, and for tightening the stitch.
  • Any other mode, partially rotating the Yneedle and awl-carriers, so as to canse the awl and needle to enter 4the same hole, may also be adopted, instead of by the grooves before described.
  • HURTU HAUTIN.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

N. PETERS, Phokmliihogmphor, Washnovv. D, C.
2 Shets-Sheet 2.
Patented Dec. 21 1869.
HURTU & HAUTIN. Sewing Machine.
I No. 98,064.
N, PETERS. Phuwumagnpher. whingm. n.1;
AUGUSTE JACQUES. HURTU AND VICTOR JOSEPH HAUTIN, 0F PARIS,
FRANCE.
Letters Patent No. 98,064, dated December 2l, 1869.
IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINE.
The Schedule referred to in these Letters Patent and making part cf the same.
To all whom it 'may concern:
Be it known that we, AUGUSTE JACQUES HURTU and VICTOR J osnrH HAUTIN, of Pars, in the French Empire, merchants, have inventedImprovements in Apparatus for Sewing Saddlery, and other Leather or Strong Materials and we do herebydeclare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the annexed sheets of drawings, making a. part of the same.
Our invention relates to apparatus more-especially applicable for'sewing leather, saddlery, harness, and other similar work, with waxed thread. In this invention, a needle andan awl are employed, havinga vertical and an adjustable horizontal movement, and are' opera- 'ted alternately, so that'the needle may pass the thread through the hole made just previously by thejawl, and before the leather is moved forward. By this means the sewing may be vcarried on with .great 'riegularity, and the material be turned in anydircct-ion, in order to execute small designs.
The invention relates, also, to improvements in th'e arrangement of the shuttle, whereby it is caused to pass through thc loops formed by the waxed thread, without touching it These improvements are illustrated in the accompanying drawings y Figure 1 of which shows a side elevation of the apparatus, on the line l 2 .Figure 2, the latter being a front view 'of the same o n the line3 4, tig. l. v
Figure 3 shows a back view of the machine.
Figure 4, a View of the shuttle-mechanism on a larger scale.
Figure 5, a plan,
Figure 6, a longitudinal section, and
Figure 7 an end view of the same,
Figure 8 shows a part detached,
Figure 9 is an end view of the shuttle,
Figure 10, separate view of the awl-carrier; while Figure 1l shows, in plan, the arrangement of the needle and awlcarriers in the head of the machine.
The same reference-letters and figures serve for all the figures. Y
a, foot of the machine, carrying the arm b, at the end of which is the head c.
1,driving-shaft, mounted at the backend of the foot u, carrying a fly-wheel not shown, and receiving rotary motion either from a treadle, crank, or strap.
fg, awl'and needle-carriers, working up and down in the head c, and having cranked ends, f1 g1, in which are iiXed the awl and needle i, carrying the waxed thread.
The parts f g are fitted to turn in parts j, which are guided vertically in openings 7, made laterally in the head c.
mi, disk, keyed ou the driving-shaft d, and provided with a cam-groove on its lateral surface, in which arm, for working` the lneedle-carrierL itheingconnected by a link thereto.
The driving-cams are combined iu such manner that the awl-carrier may be at thel highest position while the needle-carrier is atthe loivefst,'and viceversa.
Besides the up-and-down motion of thev two'l parts fg, they have, also, partial rotary lmotion in a horizontal plane, for the purpose ot' insuring the awl -and needle penetrating the leather at the same point, one
4after the other.
This motion `is obtained by the aid of grooves x, fig. 10, in the needle and awl-carriers, in which are received the frictional studs g/,fig l1, fitted in the head-c.
The grooves zare so arranged that the piercer may first make the hole in the leather and then rise, after which the needle will perform the same motion, so as to pass the thread through the hole so made.
'lhe arrangement of needle and piercer operating i exactly in the manner of hand-work, is one of the chief points of the invention.
' The thread is furnished from abobbin, l, rotating in a fork at the back of the machine-arm, the thread passing over guide-pulleys, 2, 3, 4, and thence to the needle from the tension-regulator 5,A which is tted to work up and down in the head c, and is governed by a lever, 6, iig. 3, receiving oscillating motion from a cam-groove made in the lateral face ot' disk t.
7, work-presser, ofthe same kind as ordinarily used.
We will next describe the arrangement for operating the shuttle, combined in such manner that the lat- `ter may pass through the loop formed by the thread, without effect-ing Contact therewith.
S, part seen separately in front view at iig. 8, having a semi-cylindrical space made in it, and a ring, 8, with aspace, 82.
9, cylindrical part, iixed as the end of part 8,-but leaving a space between for the passage of the needle and awl.
thread, and passing alternately from part 8 to part 9 `by the aid oi' suitable driving-parts.
l1, ring sliding on part 9, and provided with a hook, 1l. This ring is fixed by the stem 12 of a grooved coupling, 13, and pinion. 14, fitted to slide on a spindle, 15.
16, semi-cyliinlrieal part embracing ring ll, and held inposition by an arm, 17, ixed below part 8.
18, cam keyed on the drivingshat ll, for producing the oscillating motion of a shaft, 19, turning in bearings, 20, by the aid of a lever, 2l, tig. 3, mounted at one end of said shaft. The other end of this shaft, 19, carries a lever. 22, for imparting rectilinear motion to two arms, 23 24, embracing the front and back ends of the shuttle, so as to cause it to move alternately from right to left in parts 8 and 9.
25, groove made in the periphery of disk an, acting as a cam for oscillating ashaft, 26, by the aid of a lever, 27, tig. $5, keyed on one end of same. .At the other end of this lever is keyed a lever, 28, tig. 2, having a friction-roller running in the groove of part 13, for causing the sliding movement ot' the ring 11 on the cylindrical part 9, the part 16 always remaining iixed.
The hook 11l and ring 11 have rotary motion imparted to them ii'oin a lever, 29, having a rectilinear sliding motion. For this purpose the lever is guided in its motion by a earn-groove, 30, made in the lateral lace of disk m, producing the oscillation of a toothed segment, 31, tig. l, gearing with pinion 14.
lhe whole being arranged as described, the following is the action of the shuttle, andthe mode of forming the stitch, without the said shuttle being brought in Contact with the loop of waxed thread 'lhe needle 'i descends in the space between the parts 8 and 9, and forms a loop. 'At this moment the lever 2S slides the ring 11 along so as to cover the Space, and the hook 1ll seizes the loop, iirst turning in the direction ot the arrow 32, iig. 7 and then rotating in the opposite direction so as to coil or adapt the needlc-thread to the periphery of said ring 11. The shuttle then passes from part 8 to part 9 through the ring, thewaxed thread being kept on its exterior surface. After the shuttle-thread has passed through the loop, the latter is disengaged from the ring 11 by a backward movement oi the ring in the direction of the arrow 33, while the .part 16, being fixed, retains the thread during the movement of the ring. The thread, on being released, then rises by the action of the tenson-regulator 5, in order to form the stitch.
The material being sewn, is fed by a claw, 34, the Y rectilinea-rand upward movement of which is produced by a lever, 35, oscillating and sliding a part, 34, to which said claw is iitted in a downward direction.
l1`l1e lever 35 receives motion from disk t by the aid of the projecting cam-surfaces 3G 37, oscillating said lever in two directions at right angles to each other. The disk t also acts on a lever, 38, one end of which bears against the bobbin L, at the time the tensionregulator is iu operation, to prevent the thread from` heilig unwound, and for tightening the stitch.
Any other mode, partially rotating the Yneedle and awl-carriers, so as to canse the awl and needle to enter 4the same hole, may also be adopted, instead of by the grooves before described.
lt will also be understood that we reserve tue right of varying the mode of transmitting motion, and the relative positions of the parts of the apparatus described and illustrated, without departing from the principle thereof'.
Having described the nature of this invention, and the manner of performing the same, we declare that what we claim as the invention of improvements iu sewing-machines for operating on leather and similar work with waxed thread, to be protected by the hereinbei'ore in part recited Letters Patent, is-
1. The needle and awl-carriers fg, when adapted to be rotated in a horizontal plane, during their vertical movement, by means of the collar j and the camgrooves x, working upon the pins y in the head c, for the purpose oi' insuring the passage, alternately, of the awl and needle through the leather at the same point, substantially as herein shown and described.
2. The combination of the shuttle 10 with the semicylindrical race S, having the ring 81 and opening Sz, the slotted race 9 upon the spindle 15, the sliding ring 11 carrying the hook 111, stem 12, and pinion 14, the oscillating toothed segment 31, the semi-cylindrical spring-jaw 1G, and the shuttle-driver 23 and 24, all arranged and operating as described for the purpose specified.
HURTU. HAUTIN.
Witnesses A. Guion, EM. DUHAN, F. OLeoTT.
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