US976963A - Collaret-machine. - Google Patents

Description

J. P. WEIS & L. KRUG. GOLLARET MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OUT. 21, 1904. 976,963 v Patented Nov. 29, 1910.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1. 4

J. PLWEIS & L. KRUG. GOLLARET MACHINE. APPLIOATION FILED OCT. 21, 1904.

97%963. Patented Nov. 29, 1910.

4 SHEETS-BHBET 2.

J. P. WEIS & L. KRUG.

GOLLARET MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED 001'.21,1904.

Patented Nov. 29, 1910'.

' 4 SHBETSfSHEET 3.

612a fjfwl 511 1 00 11 lozdz 3:1 lffo'mle" O J wmammz IHHIH W H g'vbncooca W J. P. WEIS & L. KRUG.

OOLLARET MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 001. 21, 1904.

Patented Nov. 29, 1910.

Y modify, improve and construct the cloth or UNITED. STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN P. WEIS AND LOUIS KRUG, OF NYAOK, NEW YORK, ASSIGNORS TO METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NYACK, NEW. YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YPRK COLLARET-MACI-IINE.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Nov, 29, 1910,

Application filed October 21,1904; Serial No. 229,407.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JOHN P. VVEIs and Louis Kane, both citizens of the United States, residing in Nyack, county of Rockland, and State ofNew York; have invented a new and useful Improvement in Oollaret Machines, of which the following is a description.

This invention relates to sewing machines, and particularly to that type which has recently been designated a collaret machine.

This type of machine has been perfected to" the extent of rendering it capable of performing a class 'of work heretofore impos- .sible, that is, the attachment of a French collaret or ornamental binding to the edge of the neck opening of French balbriggans and other high class knit goods.

Anobject of this invention is to so construct and form the frame of a sewing machine, that it w1ll be capable of receivlng and properly supporting a folder of the kind which is necessary for manipulating collarets of the style noted.

Another object of this invention is 'to so work'plate of a sewing machine, that it will be capable of receiving the form of folder necessary to manipulate a collaret of the style noted and permit the free passage of the work thereover without retardation or hindrance.

Another object of this invention is to dispose a folder, capable 'of properly manipulating a collaret or other suitable bind ng material, in such manner that the latter may be attached perfectly to the neck of a garment of any character.

Another object of this invention is the production of automatic means, whereby collarets and other suitable bindings may be secured to the neck of a garment 'quickly and erfectly. 7

With the above objects in view, this invention consists in the parts, features, elements and combinations of parts and elements hereinafter described and claimed.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is an end elevation of so much of a sewing machine as 1s deemed necessary to illustrate the invention, the view showing a side elevation of the difl'erential'feeding mechanism, the presserfoot cooperating therewith and a portion of its bar, the lower end of the needle-bar and the needle clamped therein showing approximately its relation to the feed, and the means by which predetermined extremes of movement of one of the feed-dogs may be obtained without stopping the operation of the machine; Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 1, showing the opposite side of the feeding mechanism, and omitting the su pporting table and the treadle mechanism for actuating one of the feed-dogs; Fig. 3 is a top plan view of so much of the clothplate as is deemed to be necessary to illustrate the invention and show the application and disposition of'the folder; Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but showing the folder broken off and its supporting-plate swung back from operative position, the presser-foot also being removed in order to show'the position ofthe two feed-dogs in their relation to the needle and the line of I stitch; Fig. 5 is a section on the line 55 of Fig. 3, a portion of the rear end of the-plate being omitted and the scale of the figure being reduced; and Fig. 6 is a bottom plan of the cloth-plate shown in Fig. 5, the view showing only that portion necessary to an understanding of the invention, and all the parts of the machine being omitted, this view being intended to show the structure of the bottom of the cloth-plate and of the throat-plate.

Primarily, it should be understood that a collaret machine is one which includes in its structure a stitch-forming mechanism and a difl'erential'feeding mechanism capable of advancing two separate and independent pieces of work at the same or different speeds; in combination with a form of folder capable of manipulating and guiding to the stitch-forming mechanism a collaret or other suitable binding. That is to say, the machine should have essentially a stitchforming mechanism of suitable character for attaching together the collaret or binding and the bodymaterial; a feeding mechanism operating upon both -the binding and body materials and advancing the same simultaneously at such relative speeds-as the nature of the oods and character of. the work may demand; and a folder whichwill properly guide the binding material, turn or hem the edges thereof, and present the same in .proper condition for attachment to the edge or edges of the body material,- so that the line of stitching for attaching the two materials will pass through and run along the .two different kinds of material up to and beyond the stitching point of a suitable stitch-forming mechanism and, during the.

progress of said materials, hemming the edges of one and applyin the hemmed edges properly to the edge 0 another materlal. The difliculties presented by this class of work have been such as to prevent the above manipulations in a single machine; and so far as applicants are aware, it has been heretofore impossible to apply a collaret or other ornate binding to the neck 'of a garment smoothly and perfectly at one operation and on a single machine. The main difliculties in this class of work have been the inability of machines to properly feed the two different classes of material or goods, and to present such materials or goods properly to the stitch-forming mechanism for the attachment of the collaret. These difliculties are in part due to the fact that the body material is often heavier than the collaret material, that the stretch of one is very much in excess of'the other, that the'wales and greater stretch of the respective materials are at an angle respectively the one rela.

tivel to the other, that the feed mechanism has een incapable of so manipulating the body material and the collaret that the excess of stretch of one over the other can be compensated for in order to present both the materials to the stitching point in substantially the same. condition, and that the folder, heretofore, could not be properly positioned in the .machine and relatively to the needle and feed for accurate and good work. A feeding mechanism capable, of doing this work, practically and perfectly, is disclosed in the application of'John P. Weis', Serial No. 169,683, filed Aug. 17, 1903, and. the

feeding mechanism illustrated herein is to be understood to be broadly the same as the differential feeding mechanism -shown in such application. V

The machine; of this application is a straight-stitching, chain-stitch machine of either one or two threads, as may be desired, though it will be obvious thata stitching mechanism of any other character may be employed, such, 6. 9., as a zigzag, overseaming or other character of cross-stitch mechanism wherein is employed means for laying one or more threads 1n z1gzag. form upon-the'surface or over theedges of one clamped to the gressenbar.

- needle which is suitably clamped in the bar,

6 the presser-bar, 7 the resser-foot suitably The presserwith the wide body-porfoot 7 [is rowid tion .8 an elongated portion 9, the forwardend of which is upturned. The function of the parts 8 and 9'will be presentl described. The foot 7 is connected to the s ank 10 by means of two screws 11, which ass through the vertical portion. 12 of the f dot and into a depending vertical portion 13 of the shank, as shown in Fig. 3, the part 12 of the foot being provided with elongated slots 14 for the reception of the screws 11 and to permit adjustment of'the foot on and relatively to the shank 10.- The foot is provided with the elongated aperture 15 for the passa e of the needle. The main-shaft 2 is carrie by and journaled ,insuitable standards 16, extending'from the frame 1.

At its forward end, the main-shaft 2 is providedwith a diametrically slotted disk 17, to which is adjustably connected one end of a connecting-rod 18, the 'connectionand adjustment being effected by means common in the art, viz., a shouldered screw 19 swiveled in the disk 17 at one end of the diametric slot 20, the screw-threaded portion of the screw 19 passing through a lug or slide secured to the inner end of a pin or bolt 21,

the latter carrying a sleeve 22 surrounded by the circular end 23 of the connecting-rod A 18, and the parts being held in proper position by the nut 24:. This construction permits the adjustment of the circular end 23 of the connecting-rod 18 across the disk 17 by merely turning the screw 19, the latter having only swiveling movement relatively to the disk, by'reason of the shoulder 25. The op osite end of the connecting-rod 18 is suita 1y connected to'the outer end of a the feed-dog 31, which may be adjustable,

vertically in sald socket by means of the screw 32 tapped through one wall of the socket and impinging against the shank of the dog. On one side along its length ,see .Fig. 1,the feed-bar 29 is provided wlth an open-sided guide-way in which reciprocates freely the feed-bar 33, which carries at its free end the feed-dog 34L adjustable vertically in its bar by means of the elongated slot 35 in the latter, through which passes a the latter having an eccentric 37 carried by the main-shaft 2 and embraced by the bottom of the bar 29, and the angular arm 38 carriedby said bar 29, there being ordinarilya shoe 39 secured to the bottom of thebar 29, upon which the eccentric operates.

It will now be seen that the feed movements of the do 31 are regulated through the medium of the connecting-rod 18 and the shoe 46 to swivel or pivot upon the screw 45 adjustable connection ofsaid rod to the disk 17 on the end of the driving-shaft. The feed movements of the dog 34, which will be designated the main dog, because it operates upon the body material to which the binding or collaret is applied, are produced by means" of the curved lever 40, pivoted at itslowerend to an adjustable lug or bracketpiece 41 having in its bottom a T-shaped groove for the reception of the head 42 of a bolt 43, which passes through the frame 1 of the machine and which securesthe lug 41 adjustably to the frame 1 by means of the nut 44. This construction permits the adjustment of the lug 41 on the frame or bed 1, sons to properly position the lever 40 relatively to the feed-bars. The upper end of the lever 40 is pivotally connected to the bar 33 by means of a screw 45 passing through a shoe 46 located in the slot 47 of the lever 40, said screw being tapped into the bar 33. This construction enables the and. thus freelv slide in the elongated slot 47 of the lever 40. Obviously, actuation of the lever 40 wil cause the bar 33 and its dog 34 to have t eir feed movements. The actuation of the lever 40 and the regulation of the feed movement of the main feed-bar 33 are produced by means of a three-armed lever journaled at its vertex unon the shaft 26 carried-by the rocking-frame 27. One arm 48 of this lever is provideu with a shoe 49 pivotally connected thereto by means of the screw 50, said shoe embracing and sliding longitudinally on the lever 40. 1

A spring 51, connected at one end to the frame 1 and at its other end to :1 lug 52 on the arm 49, normally holds the latter depressed, or in its lowermost position. The

' central shortarm 53 of the three-armed lever depends below the pivot of said lever and has connected thereto anangular, slotted bracket 54, by means of a screw 55 extending through. said slot and tapped into said arm, the head of said screw embracing the bracket and thus holding it securely and adjustably to the arm 53; A pin 56 projects from the arm 53, through the elongated slot in the bracket 54, and acts as a limit for the adjust-ment of said bracket in one direction and also prevents the bracket from swinging on its clamping screw 55, which latter also acts as a limit for the adjustment of the bracket 54 in an opposite direction. The bracket 54 has the angular portion 57, provided with a lug or stop 58, which contacts with the web-portion of the rocking-frame 27, see Fig. 2. The arm 53 is also'provided with an angular portion 59, carrying an adjustable stop or screw 60, which contacts with the opposite side of the said webportion of the rocking-frame 27 and is held in adjusted position by means of the jamnut 61. The third arm 62, of the lever, has connected to it in any suitable manner the chain 63, or other suitable device, which passes through the aperture 64in the table 3 and is connected at its lower end With the treadle 65 pivotally supported at 66, either on the floor, table or bench on which the machine is supported. At some point between its ends, the chain 63, ,or other connecting device, is provided with a coiled'spring 67 which, -when pressure is applied to thetreadle 65, causes the chain to transmit a yielding pull upon the arm 62 of the threearmed lever and also prevents the vibration of the latter, caused by the rocking-frame 27 during the operation of the machine,

from being transmitted to the foot. on the treadle. .The interposition of the spring 67 also takes up any slack in the chain, which may occur between its ends, and thus preyents said chain from rattling during the rapid operation of the machine. To still further prevent rattling and to take up slack in the chain 63, the'spring 68 is connected to the chain and to the table or frame of the machine. It will be noted that the spring 51, connected to the arm 49, normally keeps the stop 58 in contact with the web of the frame .27, whatever the initial adjustment maybe, and after the adjustment has-been altered by depressing the arm 62, of the three-armed lever, and the latter has been released, the spring 51'will lower the stop 58 into' contact with the web of the rocking frame 27.

Now, viewin Fig. 4, it will be seen that the main feed- 0g 34 works in an elongated,

open-sided slot in the throat-plate 69 close beside the needle-slot 70 and beside the path of reciprocation of the needle, and partially imadvance and partially behind the stitching point, and that the auxiliary dog 3l operates in the widened portion of'the slot in the throat-plate directly behind the needle-slot 70 and, consequently, behind the stitching'po-int or path of reciprocation of the needle; By this arrangement, it will be obvious that the main feed-dog 34 operates entirely upon the body material and that the auxiliary dog 31 operates directly upon the binding material, but that after the two materials have been stitched together said auxiliary dog has the function of advancing the combined work," thus causing the same" to be fed from the stitching oint simultaneously, and at thesame s ee irrespective of the speed of-the main 0g 34 in advancing t-he-body material to the stitchin point.

Th1s disposition of the two dogs a so revents any drag by the body materia at either the stitching point or upon the auxillary dog, the main dog always advancing the body material properly to the stitching .pointand keeping said material up to its proper line-and position; for attachment of the hemmed edges of the binding material.

' In practice, the movements of the two feedjis d ogs' are so regulated as to have a traveling andfeeding speed of such character, as to properly feed the two difl'erent materials inthe manner required for perfect work;

- that is to sa according to the character of the materia s, the two feed-dogs may be given the same speed .or different speeds,

the one having movements either faster or slower than the other. The amount of .movement imparted to the main feed-dog depends upon the position of the sliding shoe 49 relatively to the pivotal support of the lever 40, it being obvious that the farther the said shoe is placed or moved from the pivot of the lever 40, the shorter will be the movement of the feeddog 34, and vice versa;'and as the curvature of the lever 40 is struck from a center coincident with the .axis of the shaft 26, and as the arm 48 constitutes a radius of the same circle, the

movement of the shoe 49, either toward or from the pivot of the lever 40, will not change the initial positionof the dog 34, The amount of movement imparted to the auxiliary feed-dog 31 is regulated by the adjustment of the pin 21, relatively to the center of the disk 17 or shaft 2, along the slot 20. The stop 58, which contacts with the web-portion of the rocking-frame 27, according to its adjustment, constitutes an initial position or regulation for the disposition of the shoe 49 on the lever 40, and the adjustment of the stop-screw60 constitutes a limit for the adjustment and disposition of the shoe 49 ufion the lever 40 inthe opposite direction. aving thus determined these ad]ustments,-it is obvious that a shift from one to the othercan be immediately protion an duced by the depression of the treadle and the-operation of the arm 62 of the threearmed lever, while the 'machine is in opera- I without disturbing the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism, so that, according to the demands of the Work, the

' relative feed of the two materials can be irrespective .the sup I inner s ide-plate 79 also runs in grooves in '90 the cloth-plate 75 and that portion of said The throat-plate, in advance of the feeddog 3.1, is provided with thesoli'd portion 71 which helps to form the ide-way for the feed-dog 34 and also afl'or s sup ort for the bottom fold at the hem of the inding material. or collaret. In advance of the needle-slot 70, the'throatplate isprovided with the beveled end-portion 72, provided by cutting out the throat-plate near its forward end at the inside, alon the length of thebeveled end 72, thus a o leaving the extending tongue 73 at the forward end of the throat-p ate, which is considerably shorter than'the width of said plate, On its .bottom and at its free end the tongue 73 is beveled as'shown at 74,'Fig. 6. The throatplate is secured in proper placeon the clothplate 75 by means of the screws 76. The outer slide-plate 77 runs in suitably formed grooves in the cloth-plate 75 and is intend- 5 ed to cover certain portions of themachine and also the screw-holes 78, see Fig. 6, through which the cloth-plate is secured to orting-standard of the frame. The

cloth-plate immediately in rear of the seat of the slide79 is depressed, as shown at 80, so that the said plate 79 may be freely removed rearward ly. The inner end and the' forward edge of'the slide-plate 7 9 is cut away as at 81 and the forward edge of the cut-away portion-is beveled, as at 82, to correspond with and to extend in continuity of the beveled portion 72 of the throat-plate.

The function of the structural features of the throat-plate and the slidelate 79 will be presently described. The orward edge of the cloth-plate 75., is also cut away, the material being removed so as to form a slot or opening in continuity of that formed by the cut-away portions of the slide-plate and throat-plate. The corner 83 of the clothplate is rounded and the edge 84 is beveled on the bottom at'85, this bevel corresponding with the bevel on the bottom of'exten sion 73 of the throatlate.- The edge 86 of the cloth-plate, at t e point where the latter is cut out, may be inclined in order tomake the opening at the front edge of the 1 cloth-plate slightly lar er for the proper manipulation of the fol er, as resentlyg, de-

scribed. The cloth-plate is a soprovided with anelongated slot 87 for the admission of the shank'of the screw 88 which secures 9 i the folder in place on the cloth-plate'75.

Cooperating with the stitch-formin and feeding mechanisms, we have provi ed a folder which is, in all material respects, substantially the same as that shown, described and claimed in our applicai ion filed of even date herewith Serial Number 229,408; but, for the sake of brevity in this specification, the folder is only generally shown and described. It will be understood, however,

. that other forms of folders than those described in our said application may be em ployed in connection with the differential feed, and be Within the scope of our inven-' tion, as covered by the combination claims appended to this. description. The. folder illustrated is ofthe form which we have "desi nated as crescent and is en r g e y indicated by the numeral 89.- This folder has a neck-portion 90 extended at an angle to the body portion, which lies adjacent .the

stitching-point and substantially in the line of the feed; j The neck-portion extends substantially parallel with the length of the cloth-plate and'is provided with oppositely portion'is indicated by 93 and this foldin portion-is'provided with oppositely dispose extensions or'fi-ngers 94, only one of. which isfshown in Figs. 3 andet, but both of which are shown in. the .sectional view of Fig. 5..

The folder is heldin place upon the clothplate 75 by means of supporting-plate 95', which is soldered or otherwise rigidly secured to the body-portion. of the folder and over which the body material is fed, and by whiehsaid material is su ported in proper.

- position between the-folding scrolls of the folding-portion 93. The plate 95 is.rigidly held upon the cloth-plate 7.5 by means of the binding-screw 88, the head of which bears on the top of said plate 95 and at its end, or at the bottom of the cloth-plate, is

of so securing provided with a thumb-screw 96, (shown in dotted lines, Figs. -3 and 4.), the thumbscrew being'turned upon the stem 'of the screw 8-8 and against the bottom of the cloth-plate, whereby the folder is firmly held. Adjustment of the folder is secured by means of the'elongated slot 87 inthe clothplate. This means for clamping and adjusting the folder upon the cloth-plate is suggestive merely, for it will be understoodthat various modifications of this clamping and adjusting means may be made, within-the skill of any mechanic, without departing from the spirit and scope of our invention-,-

which involves the fundamental principle the folder to the cloth-plate that it will e properly'and rigidly held during the operation ofthe machine, and providing such adjustin means that the projecting ends 94 of t e-folder may be approached closely to the stitching point in the line of feed ofthe auxiliary dog 31 and also "closely to the side of themain dog 34:. p I e In order to properly position the deliveryend of the folder relatively to the stitching point and feed-dogs as described and limit, without care. on the part of the operative, the movement of said-folder toward the stitching point an angular lug 97 (shown in dotted lines in Figs. 3 and 4. is secured to the bottom of the supporting-plate 95, by

means of the clamping-screw 98 passlng Y through the elongated slot 99, in the sup-. porting-plate 95, and tapped into said lug 97.- By elongating the slot 99, adjustment of the lug 97 on the supporting-plate 95" is secured, said lu having a portion 100 projecting into $31k? slot 99 in order to prevent the lug from turning upon the stem of the screw 98 and also to llmit the adjustment of the lug on the plate 95. The lug thus secured to the supporting-plate, when the latter ,is in the position shown in Fig. 3, lides under the edge of the cloth-plate and limits the movement of the delivery-end ofthe folder 94 and also prevents vertical movement 'of-- the folder relatively to the cloth-plate.- I

I Now referring to the construction of the throat-plate and of the slide-plate 79, heretofore described, it will be seen that the beveled portion 72 of the throat-plate'will permit the extreme ends 94 of the folder to closely approach the stitching point or point of penetration of the needle and also prevents the collaret and body materials from catching or dragging on the sharp edges or angle of the throat-plate, thus permitting the work .to approach the needle or point of stitching in substantially the same plane, or a plane.

slightly below that of the surface of the throat-plate. This is an important feature,

as will be clearly understoodupon inspection of the sectional view of Fi 5;; Like- Wise, the cutting away of the slide-plate 79 ermits the forward or delivery-end of the folder 94'to be moved to and normally set in a position which will present the hemmed edge of thecollaret and the edge of the body material in the line of feed of the auxiliary dog 31; that is to say, the scroll-end of the folder mustbe allowed to ap roach closely to the inside edge of the feedog 34, to pre-' sent the hemmed edges and the edge-of the body material so that the lineof stitching will be disposed sufliciently far from the edges of both as to place the line of stitching so that it will positively and effectively secure the several parts together. The beveled ortion 82 of the slide-plate 79 ermits the olded or outer edge ofthe bin ing or collaret material to be'smoothly fed forward I without drag or hindrance. In other words,

by providing the beveled surfaces 72 and 82 on the throat-plate and slide-plate, respec-. tively, the bottoms of the materials operated upon are allowed to smoothly. slide up to,

upon and over the surfaces of the said plates. I

Now, upon reference toFigs. 3, 4, 5 and 6,

it will be understood that the folder, irrespective of its specific construction, is let.

into, and a portion of it extends under the cloth-plate and, hence, is capable of disposaid feed-dog and includin the needle. To

permit the adjustments an disposition described, the vertical web of the cloth-plate, which depends from theibottom and usually extends around both sides and the end thereof is cutaway vertically, as at 101, thus per- .mitting the folder to be let into the clothplate pro erly and allowing its delivery-end to proper y approach the needle and feeding positions, as described. The looper-actuating rod 102 in the average machine, and also its head 103, are usually disposed considerably'below' and out of theway of the folder as we purpose p'laeingit, and in this machine the looper-carrier 104 s pro ected laterally to a considerable extent'so as to sup port the loopegr 105 in"such position that it L will travel side and close to the needle and project into the groove 106 in the bottom of the throat-plate, which also surrounds the needlerslot 70, thus preventing the looper- "carrier and the looper from interfering w th v the delivery-end of thefolder and also disposing the looper' beyond'or under the beveled edge of the throat-plate. Hence, the folder can be placed, if desired, close to the stitch ing' point and close to the side of the main .dog 34;- and, viewing Fig. 5, it will be seen that by 'beveling'the .edge '84 of the cloth plate, as at 85, and the outer end of the extension 73' of the throat-plate, as at ,7 4, the

I lower"portion of the folder is allowed to be extended under the cloth-plate for; the purposes already described,

,1 It will now beseen, upon reference to 1 Fig. 3,, that the broad portion .8, of the resser-foot, is projected beyond the inner edge 'of' the throat-plateand quite a distance over the-adjacent end of] the slide-plate 79,

and also extends forward to a point or a vertical plane which includes the extreme vforward edge of both the throat-plate and the slide-plate at the beveled portions 7 2 and 82.

It will also be seen that the elongated por- ,tion 9,56f the presser-foot, extends over and longitudinally of the main dog 34 and that the curved" portion extends 'over. the-exten-.

sion 7 3 of thethroat-plate. "The broad portion 8 'of the foot. cooperates with the auxiliary" fe ed-dogBl and, the elon ated slot 15 therein -ami registers with the e ongated slot 70 in .the throat-plate. It willbe obvious that the elongated toe 9 is'for the purpose of pressing upon and'aiding in the feed of'the o'dy material, thus cooperating with the :main dog 34, and that. the broadened portion 8 of the foot cooperates with the auxiliary do 31, thus aiding. traversing both the col aret' material and the edge of the body material, and also cooperating with the ad jacent portions of the throat-plate and the slide-plate to hold the material of the body and of the collaret in flat condition and prevent the same from curling up around the presser-foot and into the path of the needle, thus. avoiding interference of the collaret with the stitching, after the same has left the delivery-end of the folder.

It will now be understood that the collaret material is led into the folder at the .receiving-end 91, passes alon the neck of the'same and through the fo ding portions 93, and drawn beyond the ends 94 in the path of reciprocation of the needle and into engagement with the auxiliary feed-dog 31, and between the latter and the broadened portion 8 of thepresser-foot; and that the body material is placed on the supportingplate 95 and ushed' forwardunder the up turned end 0 the nresser-foot portion 9 and below the top fol ing portion 93, and forward into engagement with the rimary dog 34 and between the latter and t e portion 9 of .the presser-foot. In this condition of the two materials, the auxiliary dog 31 is in engagement with the collaret material, and it will thus be seen that the moment the stitching begins the feed-dogs engage the two'materials, respectively, as described, to advance the same to'iand carry the same from the stitching position or path of reciprocation of the needle.

Fromthe descri tion' of the mechanical. features, it will e understood that the folder may be thrown back from operative position,'see Fig. 4,'by releasing the thumb-screw 96, so as to allow the folder'to swing or pivot on the clamping-screw 88. In this condition the collaret may be placed inthe folder, or the .collaret maybe started into the folder and the latter subsequently attached to the cloth-plate and properly set in position, The osition of the line of stitching along the emmed edgesof the collaret depends upon the adjustment of the folder in the machine, the means described for adjusting the folder enabling the latter to be placed in any position desired, relatively to the stitching point, thus enabling the line of stitchingto be disposedin the manner'desired andas close to the hemmed ed es offthecollaret as may be required.

arious sizes of folders may be employed, as will be understood, and the ad usting means provided. between the supportingplate- 95 and the cloth-plate of the'machine enable folders of different sizes to be disposed with e ual' accuracy, both with regard to the disposition of the line of stitching in thework and the location of the deliveryend of the folder relatively to the stitching point; but it will be understood that, when a very large folder is used, itwill reach cons derably farther below the cloth plate and 130 toward the looper mechanism and. there fore, provision has been made, by beveling the edge of the cloth-plate at 85 and the end of the extension73 of the throat-plate at 74, to enable a folder, no matter of what size, to be properly disposedrelatively to the line of feed of the auxiliary dog and also to the path of reciprocation of the needle.

,upon the latter, which would causethe edges to be drawn away from the'stitfzhing point. Hence, the collaret is properly advanced to the stitching oint without detriment to the work or the e ectiveness of the stitching operation.

It will now be seen, from the mechanical features above described and thqdisposition of the folder upon the cloth-plate, and relatively to the feed and the stitch-forming mechanism, that means have been provided for permitting the folder, irrespect ve of its size, form or construction, to be-prop'erly disposed in the machine for the purpose of effectively manipulating the binding or collaret material, for the purpose of hemming the edges thereof and applying thesame to the edge of the body material properly, and without puckering or unduly stretching oneof the materials relatively to the other. In other words, by providing a differential feeding mechanism, the adjustment of the several dogs of which can be regulated during the operation of the machine, means have been produced for properly handling the two materials before, at and beyond the stitching point; and by constructing the cloth-plate, throat-plate and slide-plate as described, a folder or other analogous form of attachment can be properly located, relatively to the feeding andstitch-forming mechanisms. And, upon this latter" construction, we desire to lay particular stress, inasmuch as the same involves an important feature of our invention; for, we are not aware that, prior to our invention, a machine has ever been so constructed that a folder could be let into the cloth-plate so that a portion thereof would extend below the surface of-ssaid clotlgplate and underlap the edge thereofland sothat the'entire folder, and especially its delivery-end,

- could be properly positioned relatively and very close to the stitching point and feeding mechanism, without interfering with one or more of the elements of the stitch-forming mechanism or of the feeding mechanism. From the above description it will be obvious that a machine has been produced which enables a folder to be disposed. close to the stitching point for the purpose'of feeding to the stltch forming mechanism both the edge of a body garment and thehemmed edges of a collaret; that a machine has been produced which will fold and present in proper form and condition a collaret for attachment to the neck of a garment; that a machine has been produced by means of which the folder can be approached closely to the stitching point and disposed directly in the line of the feed and on a level or in the same plane with the surface or plane of the throat and cloth plate and in such position that the feed-dog or feeding mechanism can properly engage and present the work to the stitch-forming mechanism and feed the same from the stitching point perfectly and effectively for the desired purposes. It

will also he understood that a machine has been produced by means of which collarets of diflerent forms can be manipulated and the edges thereof hemmed and properly presented to the stitch-forming mechanism and applied to the edge of the body material; and whereby a collaret can be simultaneously fed, hemmed and applied to a body garment or the edge of the neck thereof. It will be obvious also that various changes, both inthe folder, the formof the throatplate, slideplate and cloth-plate, may be made without changing the nature and principle of this invention; and it is to be understood that the parts, features and mechanism disclosed in this application are merely suggestive of a form of mechanism and machine for doing the work described and contemplated which has been proved to be, in principle, both effective and practical. It will be seen also that means have been rovided-whereby the folder may have adjustments bodily and especially at its delivery-end in almost universal direction; but Of these adjustments, it will be clear that it is important that means be. provided permitting adjustments toward and from the stitchin position substantially in the line of the eed, and back and forth acrossthe line of the feed in front of the stitching point or position, whereby the delivery-end of the folder may be disposed close to the stitching point, close to the side of the main feed-dog above described, the principle of our inven- 30- tion will not be departed from, in one of its oi-.stitch-forming mechanism in a plane and in the manner substantially as described.

In other words, we believe ourselves to be the first to adapt a sewing machine to cbllaret work, and that we arethe first to discover a means by which a' collaret maybe properlyand effectively applied to the body material, and that, irrespective of the character of the folder or the class of work to be performed, we are the firsttodispose a folder or hemmer, orboth, in. the manner as hereinabove described with reference to the cloth-plate, the path .of the feed, the plane of the throat-plate andthe stitching point.

Having thus described our invention, what weclaimand desire to secure by \Letters Patent is: t 1 i 1. In combination, a sewing-machine having a work-plate; a stitch-forming mechanism; a feeding mechanism, and means for causing the same to traverse the worl: in a defined path; the work-plate being slotted. from its edge to a. point in advance of the stitching position; a folding-device; and means for pivotally supporting thefoldingdevice upon the work-plate, comprising a work-supporting plate sustaining said folding-device in the slot of the work-plate with atportion above and apo'rtion below the latter and its delivery end close to the stitching position; whereby. a binding may be folded upon the work-and the two delivered together close to the-stitching position, and the folding'device may be swung into and out of positien at will; t

In combmation', a sewing-machine having a work-plate; a stitch-forming mechanism; a; feedingmech'anism, and means for causin the same to traverse the work .in a defined path; the work plate being slotted from its" edge to a point in advance of the stitching position a' folding-device; means for pivotally supporting the folding-device upon the [work-plate; comprisin a 'worksupportingplatesustainin'g said} olding devicein the slot 'of-the work-plate with a po'rtion above and aportion below the" latter and its delivery end close to the stitching position, and means. whereby the-.folding-j device maybe adjusted on the work-plate so as toposition its delivery end properly relatively to the-feeding mechanism andthe stitching position; the 'several devices and mechanisms also" cooperating whereby .a binding may be folded upon the work and swung into'and out of position at will 3. In combination, a stitch-forming mechanism; 'feeding mechanism comprising a main and an auxiliary feed-dog; a folding device for guiding and'folding a strip of material; a work-supporting plate, con nected to the folding-device, which supports binding applied thereto; and means for pivwvhereby the foldingdevice may be swung into and out of'position at will and may also be adjusted so as to locate its delivery end in front of the. stitching )osition, in line with the main feed-dog ancl beside the aux iliary feed-dog.

I 4. -A' sewing-machine having stitch-forminu mechanism, feeding mechanism, and a 0 ding-device, in combination with a clothplate having a throat-plate the forward end of which latter is provided with an openend slot and a beveled ortion in advance of the stitching point,a n means for pivotally supporting the folding-device on the clothplate so that it may be swung into position with its delivery-end within said slot and into cooperation with the beveled portion of the throat-plate, and a portion of said delivery end-in rear of said beveled portion.

iug and feeding mechanisms, and havin its cloth-plate provided with a-slot extending from. its front edge tothe stitching position; a folding-device having a' work-supporting plate extending horizontally'from 1t-s left side; means for pivotally supporting said folder upon said cloth-plate so that it may of the; same; and means for limiting the swinging movement of said folder so as to accurately position its delivery-end relatively to the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms. 3 p 6. In combination, a'stitch-forming mechanism; a feeding mechanism having a main and an independent auxiliary feed-dog;

feed-dogs for: feeding thework;-a throatplate having a cut-out portion in which one of said dogs works and in rear of which the for guiding and folding a strip of material; and means for supporting'the' foldin -device in'cooperative relation to the stitchorming .andfeedingmechanisms, with its delivery end in. said cutH-outportion of the throatplate and in advance 'of the stitch-formin Vmec'hanism and one of ,thefeed-dogs and close alongside of the other feed-dog.

'7. A sewing-machine provided with a cloth-plate having anopening therein extending transversely thereof, a'portion of the two delivered together close to the stitchsaid plate along the opening being beveled in'g position, and thefOlding device may be' the body material in position to have the otally and adjnstably sustaining said plate,

' A-seWing-machinehaving stitch-form lie in said slotand beswung into and outmeans'for longitudinally reciprocating sa1d' other of said dogs works; a folding-device.

opening partially above and partially below said plate; and a presser-foot cooperating with the feeding-device and havin beyond the delivery-end of the folder, whereby, as the material is delivered at the stitching position by the folder, the foot will prevent the edges of the same from curling vertically and interfering with the needle.

9. A sewing-machine includin a stitchform ing mechanism, a differential feeding mechanism, a folding-device, and a clothplate having a cut-out portion adjacent the stitching position, in combination with means whereby the feeding mechanism ma be adjusted to vary its action on the wor during the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism, and means for adjusting the folding-device in the vcut-out portion. of the cloth-plate.

10. A sewing-machine havin stitch-formin mechanism including1 a nee e and an oscifiating looper; va fee ing-mechanism; a cloth-plate through which the dogs of the a por' tion extending over the cloth-plate aterally feeding mechanism work; said plate. having a groove in its bottom, surroundin nd extending laterally of the needle aperture, in

which the looper operates; said plate also having a cut-out portion forming a recess; and a folding-device carried by the clothplate With its delivery-end in said recess and extending over a portion of the looper mechanism close to the looper; whereby the folding-device and feed-dogs may be grouped closely about the stitching position without interference with the needle and looper.

11. A sewing-machine having stitch-forming mechanism includin a looper operating below the cloth-plate, a c ot-hlate having in its bottom a groove in which t e looper operates a feeding device operating through the 01 t -plate adjacent the said groove, and a folding device supported with a portion below the cloth-plate adjacent the said groove and in advance of the said looper.

12.'A sewing-machine having a clothplate provided with a oove in'its bottom, a stitch-forming mec anism including 'a looper dis osed so as to operate in said groove, an a folding d vice disposed in advance of the looper adjacent the groove and with a plate. 7

In testimony whereof we have hereunto signed our names in the presence of two su scribing witnesses;

' JOHN P. WEIS.

LOUIS KRUG.

portion extending below the cloth- Witnesses:v

' W. V. MILLER, JAB. W. Rrronmes, Jr.

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