US955951A - Ruffling and stitching machine. - Google Patents

Ruffling and stitching machine. Download PDF

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US955951A
US955951A US46169708A US1908461697A US955951A US 955951 A US955951 A US 955951A US 46169708 A US46169708 A US 46169708A US 1908461697 A US1908461697 A US 1908461697A US 955951 A US955951 A US 955951A
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lever
cam
arm
lifting
blade
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US46169708A
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Albert H De Voe
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Singer Co
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Singer Co
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/08—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for ruching, gathering, casing, or filling lace, ribbons, or bindings; Pleating devices; Cuttlers; Gathering feet; Crimpers; Curlers; Rufflers

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  • This invention relates to an improvement in that class of ruilling and stitching machines forming the subject of my United States Patent No. 887,668, of Dec. 4, 1906, and it has for its object to increase the effectiveness and facility of manipulation of the same in producing spaced series of ruffles with intermediate plain stitching.
  • Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying the present improvements
  • Fig. 2 a front end elevation of the same with the face-plate of the bracket-arm removed
  • Fig. 2a a perspective view of the presser-foot with a portion represented in dotted lines
  • Fig. 3 a transverse sectional elevation of the machine representing the parts behind the head of the bracket-arm, with the adjacent coverplate removed.
  • Fig. l is a perspective View of the rufl'ling device detached from its actuating mechanism
  • Fig. 5 a perspective view of the ruilling blade and its carrier.
  • Fig. 6 is a perspective view, taken from the rearward side, of the controlling mechanism for the rucluder rock-shaft coupling device, and
  • Fig. 7 a perspective view of the main-shaft
  • Fig. 8 is an elevation of the same with certain of the parts omitted.
  • Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation of the controlling mechanism for the rutl'ler rock-shaft coupling device.
  • Fig. 10 is a perspective view representing the latch device of the controlling mechanism.
  • Figs. 11, 12, 12a, 13 and 14 are detail views of individual parts of the means for controlling the coupling device.
  • Figs. 15 and 16 are side elevations showing the oscillatory menibers of the controlling mechanism in two different positions, and Figs. 17 and 18 are edge views of the same respectively, the
  • Figs. 19 and 20 are, respectively, a side and edge view of the pawl shifting devices of the controlling mechanism.
  • Fig. 21 is a detached elevation of a portion of the ratchet-wheel of the controlling mechanism with the clutchpawls in operative relation therewith.
  • Figs. 22 and 23 are respectively, edge ⁇ and side views of the adjusting button and its holding device for determining the initial position of the oscillatory members of the controlling mechanism.
  • the machine is constructed with the usual bed-plate 1 carrying the overhanging bracket-arm 2 provided at its forward end with a head 3 in which is mounted the needle-bar 4 with needle 5 and deriving reciprocating movements from the main-shaft 6 in a manner well-known, the needle 5 coperating with an oscillating shuttle having the bobbm-case 7 and deriving its movements from a crank 8 upon the main-shaft through the pitman 9 connected with one arm of a rocker fulerumed at 10 and having a second arm 11 slotted to embrace a slide-block 12 pivotally mounted upon a crank-arm 13 of a longitudinally arranged shuttle driving shaft 14: mounted in suitable bearings beneath the bed-plate and provided with the usual shuttlc-driver operatively engaging the shuttle, as in my said prior patent.
  • the feeding mechanism comprises the feed-bar 15 carrying thefeed-dog 16 and is actuated by means common to the well-known Singer oscillating shuttle type of machine.
  • the ruH'ling blade 17 is formed with the usual sharpened notched and serrated edge and is fitted to and secured by means of a screw 18 upon a transversely ribbed and inclined seat afforded by the lateral arm 19 of a carrying lever 20 forked at its rearward end to form the parallel spaced members 21 and 22 which embrace and to which is pivotally connected by means of the pin 23 the lower extremity of the vibrating lever 24 provided at its upper end with a boss 25 fitted upon the fulcrum screw-stud 2G carried by a block 27 which is fixed upon the presser-bar 28 squared at its lower end to receive the socketed shank 29 of the presserfoot which is secured thereto by means of the fastening screw 30.
  • the offset central portion of the front edge of the lever 24 is formed with a substantially vertical socket 31 entered by the upper end of a push-rod 32 provided with a thrust collar 33 secured adjustably thereon by means of a screw 34 and between which and the upper end of the socket 31 is interposed a springV 35.
  • the push-rod 32 is formed at its lower end with a laterally extending pin 36 entering an aperture 37 in one of the spaced members ofl the blade-carrier 2O by means of which the pressure of the spring 35 iscommunicated to said carrier.
  • the offset lower end of the vibrating lever 24 is provided with a lvertical slot 38 entered by a transverse stop-screw 39 which in turn is secured in a threaded aperture 40 in'one of the members of the carrier 20, the engagement of the opposite ends of the slot 38 with the stop-screw 39 determining the range of movement of theblade-carrier 20,-and hence the rising and falling movements of the rulling blade in relation to the lever 24.
  • the swinging ruftling lever 24 isV formed in its lower portion with a vertical slot 41 in which is loosely fitted a slide-block 42 confined-between washers 43 upon the bolt 44 provided upon its outer end with the nut 45 and having its head fitted to the T-shaped slot 46 of a depending arm 47 of an intermediate rock-shaft 48 having fixed thereon the rearwardly extending crank-arm 49 connected by meansof the pitman 50 with a similar arm 51 of the ruffler actuating rock-shaft 52 mounted in suitable bearings beneath the bracket-arm 2.
  • a curved cam-finger 61 extending beyond the same.V
  • the hub 62 of a crank-plate 63 having a Asegmental lower end provided with the spaced lateral teeth 64 and 65 embracing 'the tooth 56 of the iixed crank-arm 55, the lateral tooth 65 projecting beyond the face of the arm 55 vfor a purpose which will pres- Attached to the crank-arm 63 is a yoke-plate 66 extending upwardly therefrom andrprovided with a substantially vertical slideway 67 in which is fitted the esenti slide-block 68 which is in turn fitted upon. the actuating eccentric 69 carried by the main-shaft 6.
  • the position of the coupling lever 59 is controlled by means of a two-part pattern-cam comprising a primary member 70 and a secondary or auxiliary member 71 mounted upon the controller shaft 72 and carrying relatively adjustable trippin points for the coupling lever controller an its latch respectively.
  • the controller comprises a laterally extending lifting lever 7 3 mounted upon the fixed horizontal fulcrumpin 74 and provided upon its upper edge with a nose-piece 75 whose shank is formed with longitudinal slots 76 entered by the fastening screws 77 by loosening which the nose-piece may be adjusted endwise into the desired relation with the cam-finger 61 of.
  • the plate 84 is provided with a round aperture 88V to receive the fastening screw 79 and a transverse slot 89 to receive the fastening screw 78.
  • the lower end of the latch-lever 92 is provided with a forked lug 94 between the spaced members of which is pivotally mounted upon the transverse pin 95 the yielding tripping finger 96 pressed downwardly by means of a spring 97 interposed between its upper edge and the inner end of a socket in the latch-lever 92.
  • the forward or operative portion of the tripping finger 96 is wedge-shaped and presents a downwardly inclined forward shoulder adapted for positive engagement with a lateral tripping pin 100 upon the cam-member 71 in the operative movement of the same toward the rearward side of the machine in order to shift the latch-lever 92 fo disengage its shoulder 93 from the tooth 81 of the lifting lever for releasing the same for operative engagement of its roller-stud 87 with the concentric portion 101 and upwardly inclined portion 102 of the primary cam-member while its upwardly inclined lower edge is so presented to such tripping pin 100 in the return movement of the cammember that the finger is merely lifted in opposition to its spring 97 without affecting the position of the latch-lever 92 which is caused to assume operative or locking relation with the latch-tooth 81.
  • the forward extremity of the segmental lower portion of the arm 55 is thrown into contact with the buffer-pin 111 fitted to a transverse socket in the bracket-piece 90 and having its reduced forward portion surrounded by a spring 112 interposed between the head of the same and the opposite extremity of the socket, the threaded rearward end of the pin being provided with a thrust nut 113 and a lock-nut 1111 by means of which the position of the operative end of the pin may be adjusted. It will be observed that, by these means, not only are the vibrating arms 55 and 63 positively locked together, throughout the period of operation of the ruffling device, but the arm 55 is similarly locked in inoperative position.
  • the arm 108 is made sufficiently thin and resilient to permit the hook 107 to yield, in case it is caused to rise in advance of the beveled forward edge of the locking finger 104, under which condition the forward movement of the finger and its engagement with the rounded nose of the hook 107 causes the depression of the latter which springs upwardly behind the abrupt rearward edge of the finger so as to positively engage the latter and hold it securely in its forward position.
  • the mainsliaft G carries a worin 115 meshing with a worm-wheel 110 upon the vertical shaft 117 carrying at its lower end a worm 118 meshing with the worm-wheel 119 fixed upon the rearward end of the controller shaft 72 within the lower' portion of the upright member of the bracket-arm.
  • the secondary cam-member 71 is provided with the forwardly projecting hub 71 upon which is loosely fitted the hub 70X of the primary cam-member 70.
  • the segment arm 120 Upon the reduced extremity of the huh 70c is fixed the segment arm 120 provided upon its outer edge with the graduated scale 121 coperating with the pointer carried by a second arm 123 fixed upon the reduced outer end of the hub 71) and provided with a segmental slot 1.21 entered by the shank of a fastening screw 125 tapped into the arm 120 and adapted, through the overlying arms, to maintain the cam-members in the desired position of adjustment.
  • a radial finger 126 adapted to be grasped by the operator.
  • the hub 127 of the ratchet-wheel 128 Fixed upon the shaft 72 intermediate the worm-wheel 119 and the hub 71x of the cam-member 71 is the hub 127 of the ratchet-wheel 128 recessed in its rearward face to receive the disk 129 whose hub 130 is loosely fitted upon the hub 127 and carries the angular gear 131 meshing with the smaller gear 132 fixed upon a spindle 133 extended forwardly and provided with the knurled headed button 1311 with the peripherally graduated indicator wheel 135 having its inner face recessed to receive the split clutch-ring 130 provided in its adjacent extremities with the rearwardly projecting and oppositely beveled lugs 137 affording a taperedintermediate recess entered by the tapered point'of the screw 138 tapped into one side of the bearing of the spindle 133.
  • the top of the said bearing is provided with a' notch 139 through which the peripheral graduations of the wheel 135 may be seen.
  • the disk 129 carries upon its rearward face the tripping stud 140 upon which is mounted the anti-friction roller 141 and is provided alsoV with the spaced stoppins 142 and 143 to engage the bed-plate adjacent and at opposite sides of the disk in order to limit the latters circular movement between extreme positions.
  • the primary cam-member is provided upon its rearward face with a screw-stud 144 upon which are mounted the hubs 145 oftwo pawls 146 147 whose teeth 148 and 149 are both normally pressed into operative relation with the peripheral teeth of the ratchet-wheel 128 by means of' the springs 150 carried by the respective pawls with they ends resting upon .the screw-pinv 151.
  • the teeth 148 and 149 of the pawls are so spaced apart that while one is in engagement with a tooth of the ratchet-wheel 128 the other assumes a position midway of two other teeth of the ratchet-wheel, as represented in Fig.
  • the pawl-lifter 153 is provided with a substantially radial arm 155 having a stopfinger 156 adapted to engage a block 157 upon the rearward face of the primary cammember 7 O and provided with a socket' in which is fitted the shank 158 of a latch-block 159 and provided with a surrounding spring 160V by which the wedge-pointed latch-block is pressed normally against the opposite sides of a correspondingly shaped tooth 161 formed upon the arm 155 adjacent the iinger 156.
  • the hub of the pawl-lifter is provided with a lateral projection 153X adapted to engage the lower edges of the pawls 146 and 147 to lift the same from operative relation with theV ratchet-wheel 128 Vwhen the pawl-lifter is in outer or operative position7 thus unclutching the connected cam-members from the ratchet-wheel .which receives a continuous rotary motion through the worm and wormwheel gearing with the main-shaft before described.
  • a segmental pinion 166 which meshes with a rack 167 formed upon the top of a block 168 which is formed with a cylindrical socket 169 to whose reduced rearwardV end is fitted a guide-rod 170 normally maintained in its forward position by means of a spring 171 interposed between the rearward end of the socket 169 and a shoulder formed by the screw-head 172 at the forward extremity, while upon the rearward!
  • the stop-plate 179 is provided with a socket for the spring 180 interposed ⁇ between the inner end of said socket and the adjacent end of the notch 178 in the slide-bar 176, whereby the detaining hook 174 is yieldingly pressed toward rearward or retracted position.
  • the bearing member 177 is formed with a cylindrical bore 181 in which is fitted the reciprocating plunger 182 provided with a lateral notch 183 entered, through a longitudinal slot in the side of the cylinder, by a rigid arm 184 projecting from a plate 185 secured by means of screws 186 to the forward end of the rack-block 168.
  • the vent passage 187 at the rearward end of the cyl inder 181 is intersected by a small screw-bolt 188 having a transverse aperture 189 adapted to register with the vent passage 187 by turning the screw-bolt 188 to adjust its aperture to the required vent opening with the vent passage 187.
  • the speed of movement of the plunger 182 is controlled by the regulated fiow of air to and from the rearward end of the cylinder behind the piston.
  • the screw-bolt 188 is provided with a lock-nut 190 to prevent the turning of the bolt under the operation of the machine.
  • the outer portion of the cam-member opposite the inclined shoulder 102 is provided with a slot i parallel with its face to embrace a latchplate 191 pivoted within the same by means of a screw-pin 192 and formed with a camslot 193 adapted to register at the end nearest the pivotal pin 192 with a similar slot 194 in the front face of the cam-member, said slot being entered by a common stud 195 at the outer end of a spring arm 196 offset from a.
  • the latch-plate 191 is pressed normally outward by means of a spring 199 interposed between one end of a socket or recess formed in the member 70 and the inner end of the latch-plate, which latter is provided upon its outer edge with a transverse latch-piece 200 fitted to a notch or recess 201 in the adjacent edge of the member 70.
  • the cam-members are permitted to move under the action of the returning spring 171 toward initial position at the front of the machine, but as the tail 154 of the pawllifter is engaged by the roller-stud 141, the pawl-lifter is tilted to release the pawls which, under the action of their springs 150, rengage the teeth of the propelling ratchetwheel.
  • the twopart cam being thus coupled with its propelling device, it begins its forward or operative travel without any effect upon the ruftling mechanism until the tripping pin 100 comes into engagement with the inclined forward edge of the tripping linger 96, when the latch-lever 92 is swung upon its fulcrum-pin 91 for disengagement from the latch-tooth 81 carried by the lifting lever 73, which latter is caused to fall and its roller-stud 87 to successively engage the portions 101 and 102 of the primary cam-member.
  • the lever 73 carries downward with it the nose-piece 75, which releases the coupling lever 59 and permits it to drop behind the tooth 65 of the lever 63 under the action of the spring 73X, whereby the ruftling device is coupled to its actuating mechanism and the ruttling operation proceeds until the roller-stud 87 reaches the top of the inclined cam-portion 102 of the primary cam-member, as represented in Fig. 3 when the lifting lever 73 resumes its initial elevated position 1n which it is again locked by engagement of the shoulder 93 of the latch-lever 92 with its latch-tooth 81.
  • the latch-piece 200 rides over the point of the detaining hook 174 and snaps beneath the same, whereby the cam is locked in its advance position while the plain stitching operation is permitted to continue as long as may be desired,
  • the slide-bar 176 may be retracted 125 to disengage the hook 17 '-1 from the latchpiece 200 by drawing down the treadle-rod 204 provided with the collar 205 having a lateral projection, which engages the lateral arln 206 fixed upon a rocking pin 207 which isprovided with a depending arm 208 enteri ing a slot 209 in the slide-bar 176.
  • the release of the latch-piece 200 permits the pattern-cam to return to initial position under the action of the returning spring 171, the tripping' pin 1'00 passing beneath and brushing aside the spring-pressed linger 96 of the latch-lever 92 without otherwise affecting the couplingmechanism.
  • the rack-spring 171 is initially stronger than the ⁇ detaining hook retracting spring 180, it will be observed that when the rack-spring is under considerable compression when the patterncam approaches its advance position as represented in Fig. 3, the spring 180 is compressed and the slide-bar 176 drawn forward in opposition thereto to bring the detaining hook 174 in operative relation with the latch-piece 200.
  • the member 21 of the ruliier-carrier is provided with a lateral lug 210 formed with an Vaperture in whichis adjustably secured by means of the set-screw 211 the horizontal pin 212, which is engaged from beneath by the laterally bent extremity 213 of a lifting rod 214 passing through a slotted guide-lug 215 in the shank ofthe presser-foot 29 and a recess 216 in the lower bearing member of the head 3 of the bracket-arm and entering a vertical socket 217 formed in the lower portion of the block 27, between the upper end of which socket and the top of the rod 214 is interposed the spring 218 normally pressing the rod into lower or inoperative position.
  • the rod 214 has fixed thereon beneath the block 27 a plate 2,19 having a rearwardly extending' lug 220 normally disposed above the lateral lifting finger 221 extending from a collar 222 fixed to the forward end of a rock-shaft 223 which has fixed upon its rearward end portion a collar 224 provided with a lateral arm 225 which normally rests upon a roller-stud 226 carried by the adjustable plate 84 mounted upon the lifting lever 73.
  • the lifting rod 214 is normally maintained in its raised position, retaining similarly raised the carrier 2O with the ruftling blade 17 mounted thereon to enable the ply of material to be intermittently ruiiied to pass freely beneath the same without resistance suiiiciently underthe action of the spring 218 Y to cause the carrier 20 to be lowered, whereby the ruftling blade is brought into operative relation with the work.
  • the raising of the lifting lever-73 obviously acts through the rock-shaft 223 and intermediate connections to lift the carrier 20 into initial inoperative position.
  • the rock-shaft 52 is shown provided with a fixed collar 227 between which and the bearing 228 of the bracket-arm it is surrounded by a spring 229 attached at one end to said collar and at the other end to the bearing.
  • the object of this spring is to insure the rocking of the shaft 52, upon the uncoupling of the arms 5v5 and 63, which causes the arm 55 to immediately assume its advance position, in which it is locked by the arm 108 of the lifting lever 73. lt is evident, however, that while employment of this spring is preferable, it is not a necessary part of the mechanism.
  • the machine is provided with guides comprising the baseplate 230 carrying the upturned 'edge-guiding flange or lip 231 and the yielding separater-plate 232 spaced slightly above the Y supporting plate 233.
  • a hinged plate 235 provided with a slotted rib 236 in which is secured by means of the pivotal pin 237 one end of a tongue 238 depending from the scroll-plate 239 provided at its opposite edge with the edge-turning scroll 240 ex- ⁇ tending over and beyond the guiding flange 231.
  • the reduced forward portion 240X of the folder extends above the backwardly and downwardly inclined tongue-17X upon one side of the ruttling blade, upon which it rests, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 4.
  • the edge-folder is raised slightly with the ruiiiing blade, merely for clearance, but when the presser-foot is lifted in opposition to the presser-bar spring 28X by means of the treadle-rod 204 and rocklever 204x, or by the linger-lever 241 acting upon a lug 242 carried by the presser-bar, for the insertion or removal of the work, the carrier 20 is raised still higher above the workplate, and the hinged folder 240 is correspondingly raised, as represented in Fig. 1.
  • the presser-foot is shown with its sha-'nk 29 fitted within a longitudinal channel in the foot-plate 243 which is pivoted thereto intermediate its ends by means of the transverse pin 244 and is provided with the needle-hole 245.
  • a spring 246 normally pressing the heel portion downwardly, a transverse stop-pin 247 working between the opposite ends of the vertical slot 248 within the shank.
  • the forward end of the foot-plate is provided with a longitudinal slot extending into one side of the needle-hole through which passes the depending Guide-fin 249 of a springplate 250 secured upon the top of the footplate beneath the shank 29.
  • the guide-fm 249 is normally disposed in its lower position to guide the folded edge of the upper ply of material to the needle, but it is caused to recede above the lower operative face of the foot-plate upon the movement of the rutiling blade to its extreme advance position, thereby permitting the rut'tling blade to advance up to and beyond the needlepath beneath the presser-foot without limitation by such normally depending guide-hn.
  • the machine is titted for applying yokes to shirt waists.
  • the yoke lining or inner ply of material is introduced beneath the separator-plate 232 with its edge in contact with the guide-lip 231, the back of the shirt body overlying the plate 232 beneath the rutilerblade with its edge also in contact with the guide-lip 231, and the outer portion of the oke or top ply of goods is introduced from eneath the bracket-arm with its edge within the scroll 240, the stitching being applied through the doubled margin of the upper ply and the overlapped edges of the lower plies of the garment.
  • the presserfoot being lowered, the rutller-carrier descends into operative position, permitting the edge-folder to assume its lower or operative position.
  • the length of stitch is regulated substantially as described in my prior Patent No. 837,668, by setting the stitch regulating lever 251 upon the fulcrum-earrying rockshaft 252 for the desired number of stitches per inch, in register with the graduations of the segmental scale 253 atthe front side of the bracket-arm.
  • the clutch-screw 138 is then loosened and the button 134 is turned to bring the graduation of the indicatorwheel 135 corresponding with the desired number of initial stitches into register with the inspection notch 139 of the casing, whereby the disk 129 is set to bring its stopstud 141 in the proper position for coperating with the pawl-lifter 153 in clutching the pattern-cam to the propelling ratchetwheel 128.
  • the oscillatory controlling mechanism being locked in its advance position as represented in Fig. 1G, the actuation of the treadle-rod 204, as before described, serves to retract the detaining hook 174 and permit the pattern-cam to move under the action of its spring 171 to initial operative position in which the tail 154 of the pawl-lifter engages the stop-stud 141 to clutch the cam to the propelling wheel 12S, whereupon the cam travels forwardly and so controls the coupling lever 59 as to permit the production of the desired number of plain stitches for stitching together the several plies of material in the initial portion of the seam, then causes the rutl'ling device to operate to rutile or gather for the predetermined period the margin of the shirt body intermediate the two superposed yoke portions, after which the plain stitching is allowed to continue for the remainder of the seam.
  • the machine as herein shown and described, includes many advantageous features of construction and arrangement, one of the most important of these is theconstruction and arrangement of parts whereby the means for carrying, actuating and controlling the operation of the rutlling blade are all disposed either remotely from or rearwardly of the needle-path, whereby the operator is enabled to handle the work with the same facility as with a plain stitching machine without rullling mechanism.
  • the rullling blade By pivotally connecting the blade-carrier to its supporting and actuating member and applying thereto the spring for depressing the rattling blade behind the needle-path, the rullling blade is adapted to be made very short and secured rigidly to such carrier, so as to allow the greatest facility for inspection by the operator of the work as it progresses, in addition to the freedom for presenting the several plies of fabric in the proper relation for the stitching and ruf- :tling operations.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a ruiiling lever fulcrumed rearward of and ad( pted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruiiiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruiiiing blade mounted upon said carrier, means for imparting swinging movements to said lever, manually controlled means connected with said fulcrum for lifting said lever bodily, and automatically acting means independent thereof for lifting the ruffler blade from operative relation with the work.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a rufHing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said rufiiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruffling blade mounted upon said carrier, a spring for pressing said carrier downwardly and connected therewith'at a point rearward of the needle-path, means for lifting the rufliing lever and carrier, means independent thereof for lifting said carrier, and means for imparting swinging movements to said lever.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a ruffiing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of theV needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruffling lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruffling blade mounted upon said carrier, a push-rod journaled at one end in a bearing afforded by the ruifling lever andpivotally attached at the opposite end to the carrier rearward of the needle-path, a spring for pressing said push-rod downwardly, and means for imparting swinging'movements to said lever.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, ofra ruffiing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a. carrier pivotally connected to said ruffiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruiiiing blade mounted upon said carrier, a push-rod journaled at one end in a bearingafforded by the ruiiiing lever and pivotally attached at the opposite end to the carrier rearward of the needle-path, a spring for pressing said push-rod downwardly, means for adjusting the pressure of said spring, and means for V imparting swinging movements to said lever.V
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a ruiiiing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path and provided with a socket extending lengthwise thereof, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruiiiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruffling blade mounted upon said carrier, a push-rod journaled at one end in said socket of the ruifling lever and pivotally attached at the opposite end to the carrier rearward of the needle-path, a thrust-collar fixed upon and adjustable lengthwise of said push-rod, and a spring surrounding said push-rod and interposed between said thrust-collar and the end of the socket in the ruffling lever.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a rattling lever fulcruined rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said rutlling lever rearward of the needle-path, a rattling blade rigidly secured upon said carrier, a spring for pressing said carrier downwardly and connected therewith at a point rearward of the needlepath, and means for imparting swinging movements to said lever.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, a lifter for said presserbar; a ruftling lever fulcrumed upon said presser-bar and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruliling lever rearward of the needle-path, a rutliing blade mounted upon said carrier, a lifter connected with said carrier also rearwardly of the needle-path, and means for actuating said lifter to raise the carrier from operative position.
  • the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, means for lifting the presser-bar, a swinging ruffling lever fulcrumed upon said presser-bar, a rutiiing blade carried by said lever, a pivotally mounted edge-guide having its operative portion supported by a connection with said rullling lever, and means for actuating said ruiling lever.
  • a sewinomachine the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, means for lifting the presser-bar, a swinging rullling lever fulcruined upon said presser-bai' and ai'- ranged rearward of the stitch-forminv mechanism, a carrier pivotally connecter ⁇ with said rattling lever and extended forwardly of the stitch-forming mechanism, a rutlling blade mounted upon said carrier in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, means for limiting the movement of said -arrier upon its supporting lever, an edgeguide pivotally mounted independently of said carrier and having an operative portion resting upon said ruilling blade, and means for actuating said ruiling lever.
  • a rullling device including a rockshaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm,
  • a coupling lever formed with a cani-linger mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting level', means for actuating the same, and a nose piece endwise adjustable upon said lifting lever and adapted for engagement with the cam finger of said lifting lever in moving the saine for coupling and uncoupling said vibrating and swinging arms.
  • a ruiliing device including a rockshaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm ixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member whereby said arms may be coupled and uncoupled, means for operating said coupling member, a springpressed buffer pin adapted to engage the fixed arm in one of its extreme positions, and a locking device adapted to retain said arm in contactrelation with said buer pin.
  • a rufliing device including a rockshaft, and an actuator therefor comprising j a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member whereby said arms.
  • a coupling member may be coupled and uncoupled, means for operating said coupling member, a spring- .pressed buffer pin adapted to engage the fixed arm in one of its extreme positions,
  • a rufHing device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising ⁇ a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibra-ting arm, a coupling ⁇ member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, means for actuating said lifting lever, a stop for the Vfixed arm in one of its extreme positions,
  • actuating said lifting lever a stop for the fixed arm in one of its extreme positions, a locking lfinger carried by said swinging arm, and a.
  • Vlocking arm adjustably mount-ed upon said lifting lever and provided with a hook adapted to engage said locking finger.
  • a rufiiing device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the Vvibrating arm, a coupling' member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relations between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, and a follower plate adjustably mounted upon said lifting lever and provided with a follower for said cont-rolling cam.
  • a ruflling device including aV rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm xed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating'arm, a coupling member movably mounted upon and an actuator therefor comprising a vvibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm,
  • a coupling member movably mounted upon one'of .said arms and adapted to establishV driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a latchlever mounted upon a iixed fulcrum, a latchpiece carried by said lifting lever and adapted to engage the latch-lever, a cam follower carried by said lifting lever, a spring interposed between an offset member of the latchlever and said lifting Vlever wherebyk the former'is thrown toward the latch piece of the lifting lever and the latter is pressed toward said cam, and means carried by said cam for shifting said latch-lever.
  • a rufi'ling device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a latchlever mounted upon a iixedfulcrum, spaced fastening screw-studs rmounted upon said lifting lever, an overlying latch-plate Yand.
  • follower plate formed with oppositely arranged round and transversely slotted holes entered by the respective fastening screwstuds, a latch-piece formed upon said latchplate and adapted to engage said latch-lever, and a roller-stud mounted upon said follower-plate and adapted for operative engagement with said cam.
  • a rufliing device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a latchlever mounted upon a fixed fulcrum, a tripping finger pivotally mounted upon said latch lever and provided with angularly disposed operative edges, a stop-screw carried by said latch-lever and affording an adjustable stop for determining the initial position of said tripping linger, a tripping v member carried by said cam and adapted to engage alternately the two operative edges of said tripping cam, and a latch )ieee carried by said lifting lever and ac apted to engage said latch-lever.
  • the combination with' a ruffling device including a rullling blade, an actuator therefor, and a coupling device for establishing and interrupting operative relation .between lthe rullling device and the actuator, of means for lifting said rattling blade, and means initially set in operation by manually controlled means and automatically controlled in its action by a connection with a movingA part of the machine for causing the simultaneous disengagement of the operative members of said coupling device and actuation of the blade lifting means.
  • the combination with a rufl'ling blade, actuating means therefor, and means for lifting the same clear of the work of means initially set in operation by manually controlled means and including means for maintaining lthe same in operation during the production of a succession of rutlling blade operative movements after the manual control has ceased, whereby the ruliling blade lifting means is automatically actuated.
  • a rul'lling device including a rutlling blade, an actuator therefor, and a coupling device for establishing and interrupting operative relation intermediate said ruilling device and actuator, of means for lifting said rullling blade, a controlling cam, a swinging lever provided with a follower for said cam and with means for engaging and controlling said coupling device, a stud also carried by said swinginglever for actuating said bladelifting means, and means for actuating said controlling cam.
  • a ruflling device including a vib lating lever, a bladecarrier pivotally connected therewith and provided with a lifting pin
  • an actuator for Said rutlling device and a coupling device for establishing and interru ting operative relation intermediate said rul'ling device and actuator, of a vertically sliding rod adapted for engagement with said lifting pin and provided with a lateral lug, a lifting rock-shaft, a fixed collar thereon provided with a finger adapted to engage said lateral lug, and means including a swinging lever for operating said coupling device and for rocking said lifting rockshaft.
  • a coupling member adapted for estabwith stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rufliing device including a vibrating ruflling lever and a ruflling blade pivotally connected therewith and provided with a lifting pin, means for imparting vibratory movements to said ruiiiing lever, a reciprocating lifting rod adapted for engagement with said lift-ing pin and provided with a lateral lug, a lifting rock-shaft, a collar t-hereon provided Vwith a lateral finger adapted to engage said lateral lug, a swinging controlling lever, a cam for imparting operative movements to said controlling lever, and a lateral arm upon said lifting rock-shaft adapted for engagement with said controlling lever.
  • a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a propelling 'ratchet-wheel, means for actuating the same, a plurality of clutchpawls carried by said cam with their respective teeth spaced apart differentially in rrelation to the spacing of the ratchet-wheel teeth, a pawl-lifter acting simultaneously upon said pawls in interrupting and establishing their operative relation with said ratchet -wheel, and automatically act-ing means for returning the cam to initial posi-V tion after each unclutching operat-ion.
  • a pawl-lifter pivotallyk mounted upon Y said cam and acting simultaneously upon said pawls in interrupting and establishing their operative relation with said ratchetwheel, and provided with an arm substan- Y tia-lly inV radial relation with its pivotal support and formed withawedge-shaped tooth, a wedge-pointed spring-pressed latch-block opposed to said wedge-shaped tooth ofthe radial pawl-lifter arm, a carrier-block for sustaining said latch-block, a rotary pin Y mounted upon said cam and upon one end of which said carrier-block is fixed, and means for axially adjusting the position of said 1n.
  • controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch-device whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means including a spring for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, and a retarding device for arresting the movement of said cam as it approaches initial position.
  • a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said rutlling device an actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch device whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means including a reciprocating block and a spring connected therewith for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, an air cylinder having a contracted passage or port leading outwardly from the end toward which said block is pressed by its spring, a plunger fitted within said cylinder and operatively connected with said reciprocating block, and a valve within said port of the air cylinder.
  • a coupIing member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said ru'tlling device and actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch device comprising a rocking cammember whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, a stop-wheel, a tripping stud thereon adapted for engagement with said rocking cam-member to throw the clutch into action, a rot-ary spindle connected with said stopwheel for turning the same to determine the position of its tripping stud, a rictional brake device for imposing a resistance to the turning of said spindle, and a fixed tripping pin also adjacent said controlling cam for engaging said rocking cam-member to throw the clutch device out of action at the end of its advance movement.

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Description

A. H. DE VOB.
RUFPLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.
APPLIOATION FILED NOV. 9,1908.
ATTO/NVE Y DE VOE.
RUFFLING AND STITOHING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED NOV. 9,1908.
w/r/vEssEs ANnnEw u GRAHAM C0. Puo'ro-urucomvnins, wAsnmmoN. u c
A. H. DE VOB.
RUFFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.
APPLIOATIQN FILED Nov. 9,1908.
955,951 Patented Apr.26, 1910.
4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.
A. H. DE VOB.
RUPFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.
APPLIOATION FILED Nov. 9,1008.
955,951 Patented Apnz, 1910.
4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.
. Q1/.4mm JW- ATTORNEY NTTED STATES PATENT OFFTCE.
ALBERT H. DE VOE, OF ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR T0 THE SINGER MANUFACTURING-COMPANY, A. CORPORATION 0F NEW JERSEY.
RUFFLING AND STITCHING MACHINE.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Application filed November 9, 1908.
Patented Apr. 26, 1910.
sei-iai No. 461,697.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, ALBERT H. DE Von, a citizen of the United States, residing at Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Rufliing and Stitching Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.
This invention relates to an improvement in that class of ruilling and stitching machines forming the subject of my United States Patent No. 887,668, of Dec. 4, 1906, and it has for its object to increase the effectiveness and facility of manipulation of the same in producing spaced series of ruffles with intermediate plain stitching.
The invention consists in the various features of construction herein shown and described and pointed out in the 'appended claims.
In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying the present improvements, Fig. 2 a front end elevation of the same with the face-plate of the bracket-arm removed, Fig. 2a a perspective view of the presser-foot with a portion represented in dotted lines, and Fig. 3 a transverse sectional elevation of the machine representing the parts behind the head of the bracket-arm, with the adjacent coverplate removed. Fig. l is a perspective View of the rufl'ling device detached from its actuating mechanism, and Fig. 5 a perspective view of the ruilling blade and its carrier. Fig. 6 is a perspective view, taken from the rearward side, of the controlling mechanism for the ruiiler rock-shaft coupling device, and
' Fig. 7 a perspective view of the main-shaft,
the ruiiler rock-shaft and means for detachably coupling the same together. Fig. 8 is an elevation of the same with certain of the parts omitted. Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation of the controlling mechanism for the rutl'ler rock-shaft coupling device. Fig. 10 is a perspective view representing the latch device of the controlling mechanism. Figs. 11, 12, 12a, 13 and 14 are detail views of individual parts of the means for controlling the coupling device. Figs. 15 and 16 are side elevations showing the oscillatory menibers of the controlling mechanism in two different positions, and Figs. 17 and 18 are edge views of the same respectively, the
former being partly in section. Figs. 19 and 20 are, respectively, a side and edge view of the pawl shifting devices of the controlling mechanism. Fig. 21 is a detached elevation of a portion of the ratchet-wheel of the controlling mechanism with the clutchpawls in operative relation therewith. Figs. 22 and 23 are respectively, edge `and side views of the adjusting button and its holding device for determining the initial position of the oscillatory members of the controlling mechanism.
As shown in the drawings, the machine is constructed with the usual bed-plate 1 carrying the overhanging bracket-arm 2 provided at its forward end with a head 3 in which is mounted the needle-bar 4 with needle 5 and deriving reciprocating movements from the main-shaft 6 in a manner well-known, the needle 5 coperating with an oscillating shuttle having the bobbm-case 7 and deriving its movements from a crank 8 upon the main-shaft through the pitman 9 connected with one arm of a rocker fulerumed at 10 and having a second arm 11 slotted to embrace a slide-block 12 pivotally mounted upon a crank-arm 13 of a longitudinally arranged shuttle driving shaft 14: mounted in suitable bearings beneath the bed-plate and provided with the usual shuttlc-driver operatively engaging the shuttle, as in my said prior patent. The feeding mechanism comprises the feed-bar 15 carrying thefeed-dog 16 and is actuated by means common to the well-known Singer oscillating shuttle type of machine.
The ruH'ling blade 17 is formed with the usual sharpened notched and serrated edge and is fitted to and secured by means of a screw 18 upon a transversely ribbed and inclined seat afforded by the lateral arm 19 of a carrying lever 20 forked at its rearward end to form the parallel spaced members 21 and 22 which embrace and to which is pivotally connected by means of the pin 23 the lower extremity of the vibrating lever 24 provided at its upper end with a boss 25 fitted upon the fulcrum screw-stud 2G carried by a block 27 which is fixed upon the presser-bar 28 squared at its lower end to receive the socketed shank 29 of the presserfoot which is secured thereto by means of the fastening screw 30.
To maintain the ruling blade normally vently appear.
pressed downward toward thebed-plate, the offset central portion of the front edge of the lever 24 is formed with a substantially vertical socket 31 entered by the upper end of a push-rod 32 provided with a thrust collar 33 secured adjustably thereon by means of a screw 34 and between which and the upper end of the socket 31 is interposed a springV 35. The push-rod 32 is formed at its lower end with a laterally extending pin 36 entering an aperture 37 in one of the spaced members ofl the blade-carrier 2O by means of which the pressure of the spring 35 iscommunicated to said carrier. The offset lower end of the vibrating lever 24 is provided with a lvertical slot 38 entered by a transverse stop-screw 39 which in turn is secured in a threaded aperture 40 in'one of the members of the carrier 20, the engagement of the opposite ends of the slot 38 with the stop-screw 39 determining the range of movement of theblade-carrier 20,-and hence the rising and falling movements of the rulling blade in relation to the lever 24.
The swinging ruftling lever 24 isV formed in its lower portion with a vertical slot 41 in which is loosely fitted a slide-block 42 confined-between washers 43 upon the bolt 44 provided upon its outer end with the nut 45 and having its head fitted to the T-shaped slot 46 of a depending arm 47 of an intermediate rock-shaft 48 having fixed thereon the rearwardly extending crank-arm 49 connected by meansof the pitman 50 with a similar arm 51 of the ruffler actuating rock-shaft 52 mounted in suitable bearings beneath the bracket-arm 2. As will be observed, the adjustment of the bolt 44 toward and from the intermediate rock-shaft 48, constituting the fulcrum of the arm 47, determines the length Vof throw of the lever 24, and Vconsequently the operative or work-advancing movement of the ruftling blade 17.
Upon therearward portion of the rockshaft 52 is clamped by means of screws 53 the split hub 54 of a depending segmental crankarm 55 having a downwardly projecting tooth 56 intermediate its ends and a depending ear 57 upon which is pivotally mounted byrmeans of the screw-stud 58 the vcoupling lever 59 formed upon its lower edge with the coupling tooth 60 and with. a curved cam-finger 61 extending beyond the same.V Upon the rock-shaft 52is loosely mounted adjacent the split hub 54 of the arm 55 the hub 62 of a crank-plate 63 having a Asegmental lower end provided with the spaced lateral teeth 64 and 65 embracing 'the tooth 56 of the iixed crank-arm 55, the lateral tooth 65 projecting beyond the face of the arm 55 vfor a purpose which will pres- Attached to the crank-arm 63 is a yoke-plate 66 extending upwardly therefrom andrprovided with a substantially vertical slideway 67 in which is fitted the esenti slide-block 68 which is in turn fitted upon. the actuating eccentric 69 carried by the main-shaft 6. As will be observed, the rotation of the eccentric 69 with the mainmachine without producing any effect upon the rufliing device; but when the coupling lever is released, its toothl 60 descends behind the outer portion of the tooth 65 of the' vibrating lever 63,7while the tooth 64 en- 'j gages the adjacent face of the depending tooth 56 of the fixed arm 557 thus coupling the two arms together and causing the rocking of the shaft 52 and the consequent operative movement of the ruifling blade 17` through the connecting mechanism.
As described in 'my prior Patent- No. 837,668, the position of the coupling lever 59 is controlled by means of a two-part pattern-cam comprising a primary member 70 and a secondary or auxiliary member 71 mounted upon the controller shaft 72 and carrying relatively adjustable trippin points for the coupling lever controller an its latch respectively. The controller comprises a laterally extending lifting lever 7 3 mounted upon the fixed horizontal fulcrumpin 74 and provided upon its upper edge with a nose-piece 75 whose shank is formed with longitudinal slots 76 entered by the fastening screws 77 by loosening which the nose-piece may be adjusted endwise into the desired relation with the cam-finger 61 of.
having a projection 85 upon its lower edge` Y upon which is mounted the pin 86 carrying the roller 87 adapted to engage the trippingV portion of the primary cam-member 70. The plate 84 is provided with a round aperture 88V to receive the fastening screw 79 and a transverse slot 89 to receive the fastening screw 78. As will be observed, the loosening of the fastening screws enables the plates 80 and 84 to be independently adjusted upon the respective fastening screws as fulcra so as to secure the proper coperation of the parts. The bracket-piece 90 fixed in a slot in the bracket-arm, carries a fulcrum-stud 91 upon which is pivotally mounted the angularly shaped latch-lever 92 whose forward edge is provided with a notch to form a latch-shoulder 93 for engagement with the lower or operative end of the latch-tooth 81 carried by the lifting lever 73. The lower end of the latch-lever 92 is provided with a forked lug 94 between the spaced members of which is pivotally mounted upon the transverse pin 95 the yielding tripping finger 96 pressed downwardly by means of a spring 97 interposed between its upper edge and the inner end of a socket in the latch-lever 92. The upper edge of the tripping finger rearward of the pivotal pin 95 is engaged by the point of a stop-screw 98 tapped into a rearward extension of the lever 92 above the same and provided with a set-nut 99 for holding the same in the desired position of adjustment. The forward or operative portion of the tripping finger 96 is wedge-shaped and presents a downwardly inclined forward shoulder adapted for positive engagement with a lateral tripping pin 100 upon the cam-member 71 in the operative movement of the same toward the rearward side of the machine in order to shift the latch-lever 92 fo disengage its shoulder 93 from the tooth 81 of the lifting lever for releasing the same for operative engagement of its roller-stud 87 with the concentric portion 101 and upwardly inclined portion 102 of the primary cam-member while its upwardly inclined lower edge is so presented to such tripping pin 100 in the return movement of the cammember that the finger is merely lifted in opposition to its spring 97 without affecting the position of the latch-lever 92 which is caused to assume operative or locking relation with the latch-tooth 81. under the aetion of the spring 103 interposed between the same and the lever 7 3 when lthe latter is raised by engagement of its roller-stud 87 with the upwardly inclined cam-portion 102 of the cam-member 70, which causes the nose-piece to lift the coupling lever 59 so as to uncouple the crank-arms 55 and G3 to interrupt the ruffling action.
W'hen the coupling lever 59 is raised out of engagement with the tooth 65, in case the fixed arm 55 is not in its extreme forward position so as to bring the ruflling blade 17 into extreme retracted position, the succeeding engagement of its tooth 56 by the rearward tooth 611 of the arm (i3 throws it into extreme forward position in which the laterally extending locking finger 1011 upon the plate 105 overlying the tooth 56 and secured in position by means of the screw 100, is engaged by the upwardly extending cam-hook 107 of the locking arm 108 whose shank is provided with longitudinal slots 109 entered by fastening screws 110 by which it is adjustably secured to the lower edge of the lifting lever 73. At the same time, the forward extremity of the segmental lower portion of the arm 55 is thrown into contact with the buffer-pin 111 fitted to a transverse socket in the bracket-piece 90 and having its reduced forward portion surrounded by a spring 112 interposed between the head of the same and the opposite extremity of the socket, the threaded rearward end of the pin being provided with a thrust nut 113 and a lock-nut 1111 by means of which the position of the operative end of the pin may be adjusted. It will be observed that, by these means, not only are the vibrating arms 55 and 63 positively locked together, throughout the period of operation of the ruffling device, but the arm 55 is similarly locked in inoperative position. As will be observed, the arm 108 is made sufficiently thin and resilient to permit the hook 107 to yield, in case it is caused to rise in advance of the beveled forward edge of the locking finger 104, under which condition the forward movement of the finger and its engagement with the rounded nose of the hook 107 causes the depression of the latter which springs upwardly behind the abrupt rearward edge of the finger so as to positively engage the latter and hold it securely in its forward position.
As described in my prior patent, the mainsliaft G carries a worin 115 meshing with a worm-wheel 110 upon the vertical shaft 117 carrying at its lower end a worm 118 meshing with the worm-wheel 119 fixed upon the rearward end of the controller shaft 72 within the lower' portion of the upright member of the bracket-arm. The secondary cam-member 71 is provided with the forwardly projecting hub 71 upon which is loosely fitted the hub 70X of the primary cam-member 70. Upon the reduced extremity of the huh 70c is fixed the segment arm 120 provided upon its outer edge with the graduated scale 121 coperating with the pointer carried by a second arm 123 fixed upon the reduced outer end of the hub 71) and provided with a segmental slot 1.21 entered by the shank of a fastening screw 125 tapped into the arm 120 and adapted, through the overlying arms, to maintain the cam-members in the desired position of adjustment. For convenience in shifting the arm 123 it is provided with a radial finger 126 adapted to be grasped by the operator. Fixed upon the shaft 72 intermediate the worm-wheel 119 and the hub 71x of the cam-member 71 is the hub 127 of the ratchet-wheel 128 recessed in its rearward face to receive the disk 129 whose hub 130 is loosely fitted upon the hub 127 and carries the angular gear 131 meshing with the smaller gear 132 fixed upon a spindle 133 extended forwardly and provided with the knurled headed button 1311 with the peripherally graduated indicator wheel 135 having its inner face recessed to receive the split clutch-ring 130 provided in its adjacent extremities with the rearwardly projecting and oppositely beveled lugs 137 affording a taperedintermediate recess entered by the tapered point'of the screw 138 tapped into one side of the bearing of the spindle 133. As indicated in the drawings, the top of the said bearing is provided with a' notch 139 through which the peripheral graduations of the wheel 135 may be seen. The disk 129 carries upon its rearward face the tripping stud 140 upon which is mounted the anti-friction roller 141 and is provided alsoV with the spaced stoppins 142 and 143 to engage the bed-plate adjacent and at opposite sides of the disk in order to limit the latters circular movement between extreme positions.
The primary cam-member is provided upon its rearward face with a screw-stud 144 upon which are mounted the hubs 145 oftwo pawls 146 147 whose teeth 148 and 149 are both normally pressed into operative relation with the peripheral teeth of the ratchet-wheel 128 by means of' the springs 150 carried by the respective pawls with they ends resting upon .the screw-pinv 151. The teeth 148 and 149 of the pawls are so spaced apart that while one is in engagement with a tooth of the ratchet-wheel 128 the other assumes a position midway of two other teeth of the ratchet-wheel, as represented in Fig. 21, so as to insure prompt initial coupling ofV the primary cam-member to the ratchet-wheel at the beginning of each ruf' ling operation. Adjacent the stud 144 is disposed another screw-stud 152 affording a pivotal support for the pawllifter 153, which is formed with an upper edge adja cent the operative ends of the pawls 146 and 147 with a cam facesubstantially concentric with the curvature of the auxiliary cammember when the pawl-lifter is in its operative or outer position, and upon the opposite side of the supporting stud 152 with a tail 154 whose upper edge is adapted to engage the latted hubs 145 of the clutch-pawls and whose curved lower edge affords a cam surface adapted for engagement with the tripping roller-stud 141 of the disk 129.
` vThe pawl-lifter 153 is provided with a substantially radial arm 155 having a stopfinger 156 adapted to engage a block 157 upon the rearward face of the primary cammember 7 O and provided with a socket' in which is fitted the shank 158 of a latch-block 159 and provided with a surrounding spring 160V by which the wedge-pointed latch-block is pressed normally against the opposite sides of a correspondingly shaped tooth 161 formed upon the arm 155 adjacent the iinger 156. As the wedge-shaped points of the members 159 and 161 are arranged to register only when the pawl-lifter 153 is inintermediate position, it will be observed that the spring-pressed latch-block 159, in its action upon the inclined sides of the tooth 161 tends to yieldingly maintain the pawl-lifter in one or the other of its extreme positions.
As represented in Fig. 21, the hub of the pawl-lifter is provided with a lateral projection 153X adapted to engage the lower edges of the pawls 146 and 147 to lift the same from operative relation with theV ratchet-wheel 128 Vwhen the pawl-lifter is in outer or operative position7 thus unclutching the connected cam-members from the ratchet-wheel .which receives a continuous rotary motion through the worm and wormwheel gearing with the main-shaft before described.
Y `To afford the desired angular adjustment for the latch-block 159, its supporting block Upon one side of the hub X is formed a segmental pinion 166 which meshes with a rack 167 formed upon the top of a block 168 which is formed with a cylindrical socket 169 to whose reduced rearwardV end is fitted a guide-rod 170 normally maintained in its forward position by means of a spring 171 interposed between the rearward end of the socket 169 and a shoulder formed by the screw-head 172 at the forward extremity, while upon the rearward! extremity of said rod is secured a head 173 carrying the forwardly extending detainingl hook 174 and provided with a lateral ange 175 attached to the slide-bar 176 slidingly .e fitted within the bearing member 177` and Y provided with a lateral notch 178 entered by the stop-plate 179 carried by the bearing member 177. The stop-plate 179 is provided with a socket for the spring 180 interposed` between the inner end of said socket and the adjacent end of the notch 178 in the slide-bar 176, whereby the detaining hook 174 is yieldingly pressed toward rearward or retracted position. a
As the two-part pattern cam is advanced by the ratchet-wheel 128, it will be observed that the block 168 is caused to travel toward the front of the machine7 thus windingvup the returning spring 171, while the lifting of the pawls 146 and 147 serves to uncouple said parts to permit the cam-members 7 O and` 71 to return to initial position under the action of the spring 171 and the intermediate rack-and- pinion 167 and 166. In order to prevent too great concussion in the arresting of the retractive movement lof the patterncam, the bearing member 177 is formed with a cylindrical bore 181 in which is fitted the reciprocating plunger 182 provided with a lateral notch 183 entered, through a longitudinal slot in the side of the cylinder, by a rigid arm 184 projecting from a plate 185 secured by means of screws 186 to the forward end of the rack-block 168. The vent passage 187 at the rearward end of the cyl inder 181 is intersected by a small screw-bolt 188 having a transverse aperture 189 adapted to register with the vent passage 187 by turning the screw-bolt 188 to adjust its aperture to the required vent opening with the vent passage 187. The speed of movement of the plunger 182 is controlled by the regulated fiow of air to and from the rearward end of the cylinder behind the piston. The screw-bolt 188 is provided with a lock-nut 190 to prevent the turning of the bolt under the operation of the machine. The outer portion of the cam-member opposite the inclined shoulder 102 is provided with a slot i parallel with its face to embrace a latchplate 191 pivoted within the same by means of a screw-pin 192 and formed with a camslot 193 adapted to register at the end nearest the pivotal pin 192 with a similar slot 194 in the front face of the cam-member, said slot being entered by a common stud 195 at the outer end of a spring arm 196 offset from a. shift-lever 197 fulcrumed upon the screw-stud 198 carried by the segment arm 120. The latch-plate 191 is pressed normally outward by means of a spring 199 interposed between one end of a socket or recess formed in the member 70 and the inner end of the latch-plate, which latter is provided upon its outer edge with a transverse latch-piece 200 fitted to a notch or recess 201 in the adjacent edge of the member 70. As the slot 194 is concentric with the fulcrum-stud 198 around which the stud 195 moves, while the main portion of the slot 193 is eccentric thereto in the outer position of the latch-piece 200, it will be observed that, when the lever 197 is shifted by means of its handle 202 into the enlargement of the cam-slot 193 at the end nearest the pivotal pin 192, the latch-plate is free to swing upon such pivotal pin under the ac tion of the spring 199 within the limits embraced by the enlarged end of said slot, but when the lever 197 is shifted to bring the stud 195 to the opposite ends of the slots 193 and 194, the latch-piece 200 is drawn into inoperative position in its notch or recess 201.
As previously indicated, when the pawllifter 153 is in its outer position and the pawl-teeth 148 and 149 disengaged from the teeth ofthe propelling ratchetavheel 128, the cam-members are permitted to move under the action of the returning spring 171 toward initial position at the front of the machine, but as the tail 154 of the pawllifter is engaged by the roller-stud 141, the pawl-lifter is tilted to release the pawls which, under the action of their springs 150, rengage the teeth of the propelling ratchetwheel. The twopart cam being thus coupled with its propelling device, it begins its forward or operative travel without any effect upon the ruftling mechanism until the tripping pin 100 comes into engagement with the inclined forward edge of the tripping linger 96, when the latch-lever 92 is swung upon its fulcrum-pin 91 for disengagement from the latch-tooth 81 carried by the lifting lever 73, which latter is caused to fall and its roller-stud 87 to successively engage the portions 101 and 102 of the primary cam-member. The lever 73 carries downward with it the nose-piece 75, which releases the coupling lever 59 and permits it to drop behind the tooth 65 of the lever 63 under the action of the spring 73X, whereby the ruftling device is coupled to its actuating mechanism and the ruttling operation proceeds until the roller-stud 87 reaches the top of the inclined cam-portion 102 of the primary cam-member, as represented in Fig. 3 when the lifting lever 73 resumes its initial elevated position 1n which it is again locked by engagement of the shoulder 93 of the latch-lever 92 with its latch-tooth 81. The descent of the lever 73 in starting the ruffling operation evidently carries with it the locking arm 108 whose hook 107 becomes temporarily disengaged from the locking finger 104 upon the lever 55, but upon the 100 rise ef the lever 73 to initial position at the end of the ruflling operation, the locking arm 108 is caused to rengage the finger 104, as previously described, to insure the retent-ion of the rutlling member in retracted position. The continued advance of the members 70 and 71 produces no further action upon the ruftling devices, but provides for their inoperation to permit the production of a succession of plain stitches upon an unruftled portion of the material, which continues until the outer cam-face of the pawl-lifter 153 encounters the rounded end of the stationary tripping pin 203 at the rearward side of the machine, when the pawl-lifter is tilted and the pawls disengaged from the propelling ratchet-wheel.
At the same time, the latch-piece 200 rides over the point of the detaining hook 174 and snaps beneath the same, whereby the cam is locked in its advance position while the plain stitching operation is permitted to continue as long as may be desired,
To begin a new stitching and ruiliing operation, the slide-bar 176 may be retracted 125 to disengage the hook 17 '-1 from the latchpiece 200 by drawing down the treadle-rod 204 provided with the collar 205 having a lateral projection, which engages the lateral arln 206 fixed upon a rocking pin 207 which isprovided with a depending arm 208 enteri ing a slot 209 in the slide-bar 176. The release of the latch-piece 200 permits the pattern-cam to return to initial position under the action of the returning spring 171, the tripping' pin 1'00 passing beneath and brushing aside the spring-pressed linger 96 of the latch-lever 92 without otherwise affecting the couplingmechanism. VArs the rack-spring 171 is initially stronger than the `detaining hook retracting spring 180, it will be observed that when the rack-spring is under considerable compression when the patterncam approaches its advance position as represented in Fig. 3, the spring 180 is compressed and the slide-bar 176 drawn forward in opposition thereto to bring the detaining hook 174 in operative relation with the latch-piece 200. When, however, the pattern-cam approaches its forward position upon its release by forcible retraction of the hook 174 in opposition to its spring 180, and the tension of the rack-spring 171 is reduced Vby its expansion under the return movement of the rack-block 168, the power of the spring 180 exceeds that of the spring 171 and forces the head 173 carrying the detaining hook 174 backwardly Vout of the range of movement of the block 168, so that no resistance is imposed'upo'n the latter to arrest its backward movement to extreme retracted position at the time when its returning spring is the weakest.
The member 21 of the ruliier-carrier is provided with a lateral lug 210 formed with an Vaperture in whichis adjustably secured by means of the set-screw 211 the horizontal pin 212, which is engaged from beneath by the laterally bent extremity 213 of a lifting rod 214 passing through a slotted guide-lug 215 in the shank ofthe presser-foot 29 and a recess 216 in the lower bearing member of the head 3 of the bracket-arm and entering a vertical socket 217 formed in the lower portion of the block 27, between the upper end of which socket and the top of the rod 214 is interposed the spring 218 normally pressing the rod into lower or inoperative position. The rod 214 has fixed thereon beneath the block 27 a plate 2,19 having a rearwardly extending' lug 220 normally disposed above the lateral lifting finger 221 extending from a collar 222 fixed to the forward end of a rock-shaft 223 which has fixed upon its rearward end portion a collar 224 provided with a lateral arm 225 which normally rests upon a roller-stud 226 carried by the adjustable plate 84 mounted upon the lifting lever 73. It will be observed that the lifting rod 214 is normally maintained in its raised position, retaining similarly raised the carrier 2O with the ruftling blade 17 mounted thereon to enable the ply of material to be intermittently ruiiied to pass freely beneath the same without resistance suiiiciently underthe action of the spring 218 Y to cause the carrier 20 to be lowered, whereby the ruftling blade is brought into operative relation with the work. The raising of the lifting lever-73 obviously acts through the rock-shaft 223 and intermediate connections to lift the carrier 20 into initial inoperative position.
In the drawings, the rock-shaft 52 is shown provided with a fixed collar 227 between which and the bearing 228 of the bracket-arm it is surrounded by a spring 229 attached at one end to said collar and at the other end to the bearing. The object of this spring is to insure the rocking of the shaft 52, upon the uncoupling of the arms 5v5 and 63, which causes the arm 55 to immediately assume its advance position, in which it is locked by the arm 108 of the lifting lever 73. lt is evident, however, that while employment of this spring is preferable, it is not a necessary part of the mechanism. z
As herein represented, the machine is provided with guides comprising the baseplate 230 carrying the upturned 'edge-guiding flange or lip 231 and the yielding separater-plate 232 spaced slightly above the Y supporting plate 233. Upon the separatorplate is secured for lateral adjustment by means of fastening screws 234 a hinged plate 235 provided with a slotted rib 236 in which is secured by means of the pivotal pin 237 one end of a tongue 238 depending from the scroll-plate 239 provided at its opposite edge with the edge-turning scroll 240 ex-` tending over and beyond the guiding flange 231. The reduced forward portion 240X of the folder extends above the backwardly and downwardly inclined tongue-17X upon one side of the ruttling blade, upon which it rests, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 4. i/Vhen the rufliing mechanism is thrown out of action, the edge-folder is raised slightly with the ruiiiing blade, merely for clearance, but when the presser-foot is lifted in opposition to the presser-bar spring 28X by means of the treadle-rod 204 and rocklever 204x, or by the linger-lever 241 acting upon a lug 242 carried by the presser-bar, for the insertion or removal of the work, the carrier 20 is raised still higher above the workplate, and the hinged folder 240 is correspondingly raised, as represented in Fig. 1.
The presser-foot is shown with its sha-'nk 29 fitted within a longitudinal channel in the foot-plate 243 which is pivoted thereto intermediate its ends by means of the transverse pin 244 and is provided with the needle-hole 245. Interposed between the heel of the foot-plate and the upper end of a socket formed therefor in the shank is a spring 246 normally pressing the heel portion downwardly, a transverse stop-pin 247 working between the opposite ends of the vertical slot 248 within the shank. The forward end of the foot-plate is provided with a longitudinal slot extending into one side of the needle-hole through which passes the depending Guide-fin 249 of a springplate 250 secured upon the top of the footplate beneath the shank 29. The guide-fm 249 is normally disposed in its lower position to guide the folded edge of the upper ply of material to the needle, but it is caused to recede above the lower operative face of the foot-plate upon the movement of the rutiling blade to its extreme advance position, thereby permitting the rut'tling blade to advance up to and beyond the needlepath beneath the presser-foot without limitation by such normally depending guide-hn.
As herein represented, the machine is titted for applying yokes to shirt waists. For this operation, the yoke lining or inner ply of material is introduced beneath the separator-plate 232 with its edge in contact with the guide-lip 231, the back of the shirt body overlying the plate 232 beneath the rutilerblade with its edge also in contact with the guide-lip 231, and the outer portion of the oke or top ply of goods is introduced from eneath the bracket-arm with its edge within the scroll 240, the stitching being applied through the doubled margin of the upper ply and the overlapped edges of the lower plies of the garment. The presserfoot being lowered, the rutller-carrier descends into operative position, permitting the edge-folder to assume its lower or operative position.
The length of stitch is regulated substantially as described in my prior Patent No. 837,668, by setting the stitch regulating lever 251 upon the fulcrum-earrying rockshaft 252 for the desired number of stitches per inch, in register with the graduations of the segmental scale 253 atthe front side of the bracket-arm. The clutch-screw 138 is then loosened and the button 134 is turned to bring the graduation of the indicatorwheel 135 corresponding with the desired number of initial stitches into register with the inspection notch 139 of the casing, whereby the disk 129 is set to bring its stopstud 141 in the proper position for coperating with the pawl-lifter 153 in clutching the pattern-cam to the propelling ratchetwheel 128. The oscillatory controlling mechanism being locked in its advance position as represented in Fig. 1G, the actuation of the treadle-rod 204, as before described, serves to retract the detaining hook 174 and permit the pattern-cam to move under the action of its spring 171 to initial operative position in which the tail 154 of the pawl-lifter engages the stop-stud 141 to clutch the cam to the propelling wheel 12S, whereupon the cam travels forwardly and so controls the coupling lever 59 as to permit the production of the desired number of plain stitches for stitching together the several plies of material in the initial portion of the seam, then causes the rutl'ling device to operate to rutile or gather for the predetermined period the margin of the shirt body intermediate the two superposed yoke portions, after which the plain stitching is allowed to continue for the remainder of the seam. Then the shift-,lever 197 is shifted 'to bring the pin 195 into the ends of the slots 193 and 194 farthest from the fulcrumpin 192 of the latch-plate, and the latchpiece 200 is thereby maintained retracted from operative relation with the detaining hook 174, the engagement of the tripping pin 203 with the outer cam-face of the pawllifter 153 unclutches the pattern-cam from the wheel 12S and permits the same to be immediately returned by its spring 171 for reclutching by means of the stop-stud 141; the machine being thus adapted to produce continuously uniformly spaced alternating series of plain stitched and rutl'led fabric.
lVhile the machine, as herein shown and described, includes many advantageous features of construction and arrangement, one of the most important of these is theconstruction and arrangement of parts whereby the means for carrying, actuating and controlling the operation of the rutlling blade are all disposed either remotely from or rearwardly of the needle-path, whereby the operator is enabled to handle the work with the same facility as with a plain stitching machine without rullling mechanism. By pivotally connecting the blade-carrier to its supporting and actuating member and applying thereto the spring for depressing the rattling blade behind the needle-path, the rullling blade is adapted to be made very short and secured rigidly to such carrier, so as to allow the greatest facility for inspection by the operator of the work as it progresses, in addition to the freedom for presenting the several plies of fabric in the proper relation for the stitching and ruf- :tling operations.
Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, a tulcrum-stud mounted upon and sustained by the presserbar, a rullling lever mounted upon said fulerum-stud, a rut'lling blade carried by said rutlling lever, a rock-shaft mounted independently of the presser-bar, an operative connection between said rock-shaft and the rattling-lever, actuating means for said rock-shaft, and means for establishing and interrupting operative relation between said rock-shaft and its actuating means.
2. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, a fulcrum-stud mounted upon and sustained by the presserbar, a rufliing lever mounted upon said fulcrum-stud, a ruffling blade carried by said ruffling lever, a rock-shaft mounted in fixed bearings adjacent and independent of the presser-bar and below said fulcrum-stud, means for rocking the same, an arm upon said rock-shaft adjacent said ruffling lever, and a pivotal connection intermediate said arm and the ruiiiing lever.
3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, a fulcrum-stud mounted upon and sustained by the presserbar, a rufliing lever mounted upon said fulcrum-stud, a ruffiing blade carried by said ruifling. lever, a rock-shaft mounted in fixed bearings adjacent the presser-bar and below said fulcrum-stud, means for rocking the same, an arm upon said rock-shaft adjacent said rufiiing lever, and a pivotal stud carried by said arm and adjustable lengthwise of the latter and of said rufiling lever and affording a direct coupling between the same.
4:. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, a fulcrum-stud mounted upon and sustained by the presser-bar, a rufiiing. lever mounted upon said fulcrumstud, a ruiiiing blade carried by said ruliiing lever, and means for actuating said rufiiing lever comprising an actuating rock-shaft, means for rocking it, a second rock-shaft mounted in fixed bearings adjacent the presser-bar and below the first-mentioned rock-shaft, crankarms upon said rockshafts, `a pitman connection intermediate said crank-arms, a depending arm upon the second rock-shaft adjacent said ruffling lever, and a pivotal connection intermediate said depending arm and the ruiiiing lever.
5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a ruiiling lever fulcrumed rearward of and ad( pted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruiiiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruiiiing blade mounted upon said carrier, means for imparting swinging movements to said lever, manually controlled means connected with said fulcrum for lifting said lever bodily, and automatically acting means independent thereof for lifting the ruffler blade from operative relation with the work.
6. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a rufHing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said rufiiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruffling blade mounted upon said carrier, a spring for pressing said carrier downwardly and connected therewith'at a point rearward of the needle-path, means for lifting the rufliing lever and carrier, means independent thereof for lifting said carrier, and means for imparting swinging movements to said lever.
7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a ruffiing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of theV needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruffling lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruffling blade mounted upon said carrier, a push-rod journaled at one end in a bearing afforded by the ruifling lever andpivotally attached at the opposite end to the carrier rearward of the needle-path, a spring for pressing said push-rod downwardly, and means for imparting swinging'movements to said lever.
8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, ofra ruffiing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a. carrier pivotally connected to said ruffiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruiiiing blade mounted upon said carrier, a push-rod journaled at one end in a bearingafforded by the ruiiiing lever and pivotally attached at the opposite end to the carrier rearward of the needle-path, a spring for pressing said push-rod downwardly, means for adjusting the pressure of said spring, and means for V imparting swinging movements to said lever.V
9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a ruiiiing lever fulcrumed rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path and provided with a socket extending lengthwise thereof, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruiiiing lever rearward of the needle-path, a ruffling blade mounted upon said carrier, a push-rod journaled at one end in said socket of the ruifling lever and pivotally attached at the opposite end to the carrier rearward of the needle-path, a thrust-collar fixed upon and adjustable lengthwise of said push-rod, and a spring surrounding said push-rod and interposed between said thrust-collar and the end of the socket in the ruffling lever.
110. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a rattling lever fulcruined rearward of and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said rutlling lever rearward of the needle-path, a rattling blade rigidly secured upon said carrier, a spring for pressing said carrier downwardly and connected therewith at a point rearward of the needlepath, and means for imparting swinging movements to said lever.
11. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, a lifter for said presserbar; a ruftling lever fulcrumed upon said presser-bar and adapted to swing in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path, a carrier pivotally connected to said ruliling lever rearward of the needle-path, a rutliing blade mounted upon said carrier, a lifter connected with said carrier also rearwardly of the needle-path, and means for actuating said lifter to raise the carrier from operative position.
12. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and 'feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, means for lifting said presser-bar, a fulcrum-stud mounted upon and sustained by the presser-bar, a ruttling lever mounted upon said fulcrumstud, a carrier pivotally connected to said i'uiiling lever, a ruilling blade mounted upon said carrier, means for pressing saidI carrier downwardly, means comprising a inember carried by said rutiling lever' for limiting the circular movement of the carrier upon its pivoted connection with the ru'llling lever, and means for imparting swinging movements to said ruiiling lever.
13. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, means for lifting said presser-bar, a fulcrum-stud mounted upon and sustained by the presser-bai', a ruilling lever mounted upon said fulcrumstud, a carrier pivotally connected to said ru'liling lever, a ru'tling blade mounted upon said carrier, means for pressing said carrier downwardly, a pin-and-slot connection intermediate said ruilling lever and carrier for limiting the movement of the latter upon the former, and means for imparting swinging movements to said ruliling lever.
111. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, means for lifting the presser-bar, a swinging ruffling lever fulcrumed upon said presser-bar, a rutiiing blade carried by said lever, a pivotally mounted edge-guide having its operative portion supported by a connection with said rullling lever, and means for actuating said ruiling lever.
15. In a sewinomachine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar by which the same is carried, means for lifting the presser-bar, a swinging rullling lever fulcruined upon said presser-bai' and ai'- ranged rearward of the stitch-forminv mechanism, a carrier pivotally connecter` with said rattling lever and extended forwardly of the stitch-forming mechanism, a rutlling blade mounted upon said carrier in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, means for limiting the movement of said -arrier upon its supporting lever, an edgeguide pivotally mounted independently of said carrier and having an operative portion resting upon said ruilling blade, and means for actuating said ruiling lever.
1C. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, aguide-lin mounted upon and disposed intermediate the opposite edges of said presser-foot and normally extending below its operative face but adapted to yield upwardly, a presser-baiT by which the presser-foot is carried, means for lifting the presser-bar, a swinging rufiiing lever, a rutlling blade carried by said rullling lever, and means for swinging said rullling lever to carry said blade beneath the presser-foot and into engagement with said guide-iin whereby the latter is thrust into inoperative position above the operative face of the presser-foot.
17. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rullling device including a rockshaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm,
a coupling lever formed with a cani-linger mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting level', means for actuating the same, and a nose piece endwise adjustable upon said lifting lever and adapted for engagement with the cam finger of said lifting lever in moving the saine for coupling and uncoupling said vibrating and swinging arms.
18. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruiliing device including a rockshaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm ixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member whereby said arms may be coupled and uncoupled, means for operating said coupling member, a springpressed buffer pin adapted to engage the fixed arm in one of its extreme positions, and a locking device adapted to retain said arm in contactrelation with said buer pin.
19. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rufliing device including a rockshaft, and an actuator therefor comprising j a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member whereby said arms.
may be coupled and uncoupled, means for operating said coupling member, a spring- .pressed buffer pin adapted to engage the fixed arm in one of its extreme positions,
and an automatically acting locking device adapted to retain said arm in contact relationV with said buffer pin.
.20. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rufHing device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising` a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibra-ting arm, a coupling` member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, means for actuating said lifting lever, a stop for the Vfixed arm in one of its extreme positions,
. actuating said lifting lever, a stop for the fixed arm in one of its extreme positions, a locking lfinger carried by said swinging arm, and a. Vlocking arm adjustably mount-ed upon said lifting lever and provided with a hook adapted to engage said locking finger.
22. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rufiiing device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the Vvibrating arm, a coupling' member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relations between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, and a follower plate adjustably mounted upon said lifting lever and provided with a follower for said cont-rolling cam.
23. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruflling device including aV rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm xed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating'arm, a coupling member movably mounted upon and an actuator therefor comprising a vvibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm,
a coupling member movably mounted upon one'of .said arms and adapted to establishV driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a latchlever mounted upon a iixed fulcrum, a latchpiece carried by said lifting lever and adapted to engage the latch-lever, a cam follower carried by said lifting lever, a spring interposed between an offset member of the latchlever and said lifting Vlever wherebyk the former'is thrown toward the latch piece of the lifting lever and the latter is pressed toward said cam, and means carried by said cam for shifting said latch-lever.V
25. In a'sewing machine, the combination with a rufi'ling device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a latchlever mounted upon a iixedfulcrum, spaced fastening screw-studs rmounted upon said lifting lever, an overlying latch-plate Yand. follower plate formed with oppositely arranged round and transversely slotted holes entered by the respective fastening screwstuds, a latch-piece formed upon said latchplate and adapted to engage said latch-lever, and a roller-stud mounted upon said follower-plate and adapted for operative engagement with said cam.
26. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rufliing device including a rock-shaft, and an actuator therefor comprising a vibrating arm, of a swinging arm fixed upon said rock-shaft adjacent the vibrating arm, a coupling member movably mounted upon one of said arms and adapted to establish driving relation between said arms, a lifting lever for moving said coupling member into and out of operative position, a controlling cam, means for actuating said cam, a latchlever mounted upon a fixed fulcrum, a tripping finger pivotally mounted upon said latch lever and provided with angularly disposed operative edges, a stop-screw carried by said latch-lever and affording an adjustable stop for determining the initial position of said tripping linger, a tripping v member carried by said cam and adapted to engage alternately the two operative edges of said tripping cam, and a latch )ieee carried by said lifting lever and ac apted to engage said latch-lever.
27. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruflling blade, actuating means therefor, and means for lifting the same clear of the work, ofmeans initially set in operation by manually controlled means and automatically controlled in its action by a connection with a moving part of the machine whereby the rufi'ling blade lifting means is operated.
28. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruffling blade, actuating means therefor, and means for lifting the same clear of the work, of means automatically controlled in its action by a connection with a moving part of the machine for causing the simultaneous interruption of both the operation and the lifting of said ruttling blade.
Q9. In a sewing machine, the combination with' a ruffling device including a rullling blade, an actuator therefor, and a coupling device for establishing and interrupting operative relation .between lthe rullling device and the actuator, of means for lifting said rattling blade, and means initially set in operation by manually controlled means and automatically controlled in its action by a connection with a movingA part of the machine for causing the simultaneous disengagement of the operative members of said coupling device and actuation of the blade lifting means.
30. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rufl'ling blade, actuating means therefor, and means for lifting the same clear of the work, of means initially set in operation by manually controlled means and including means for maintaining lthe same in operation during the production of a succession of rutlling blade operative movements after the manual control has ceased, whereby the ruliling blade lifting means is automatically actuated.
31. In a sewing machine, lthe combination with driving means, a rattling blade, actuating means therefor operatively connected with said driving means, and ruliling blade lifting means, of means operatively connected with the driving means for actuating t the ruflling blade lifting` means, and manually controlled means for setting the same in action.
32. In a sewing machine, the combination with driving means, a rutiling blade, actuating means therefor operatively connected with said driving means, and rul'lling blade lifting means, of means controlled in its operation by a connection with said driving means for actuating Vthe rulling blade lifting means, and manually controlled means for setting the same in action.
In a sewing machine, the combination with a rul'lling device including a rutlling blade, an actuator therefor, and a coupling device for establishing and interrupting operative relation intermediate said ruilling device and actuator, of means for lifting said rullling blade, a controlling cam, a swinging lever provided with a follower for said cam and with means for engaging and controlling said coupling device, a stud also carried by said swinginglever for actuating said bladelifting means, and means for actuating said controlling cam.
34. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruflling device including a vib lating lever, a bladecarrier pivotally connected therewith and provided with a lifting pin,
a ruiiling blade mounted upon said carrier,
an actuator for Said rutlling device, and a coupling device for establishing and interru ting operative relation intermediate said rul'ling device and actuator, of a vertically sliding rod adapted for engagement with said lifting pin and provided with a lateral lug, a lifting rock-shaft, a fixed collar thereon provided with a finger adapted to engage said lateral lug, and means including a swinging lever for operating said coupling device and for rocking said lifting rockshaft.
35. In a Sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-foot, a presser-bar to which the same is attached, a block fixed upon said presser-bar and formed with a vertical guide-socket and carrying a fnlerum-sttul, a ruliling lever mounted upon said fnlcrumstud, a blade-carrier pivotally mounted upon said rutiling lever and provided with a lifting pin, a rull'ling blade mounted upon said carrier, a spring-pressed lifting rod having its upper end liournalcd in the guide-socket of said block and its lower end in operative relation with the lifting pin of said bladecarrier, a lifting rock-shaft provided with means for actuating` said lifting rod in opposition to its spring, a rulller actuating rock-shaft through which operative movements are communicated to the ruiliing lcver, an actuator, a coupling device intermediate said actuator and rutiler actuating rock-shaft, and common means for operating said coupling device and lifting rockshaft whereby the ruiiling blade is simultaneously thrown into action and lowered and is thrown out of action and raised from engagement with the work.
36. In a sewing machine, the combination for, of a coupling member adapted for estabwith stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a rufliing device including a vibrating ruflling lever and a ruflling blade pivotally connected therewith and provided with a lifting pin, means for imparting vibratory movements to said ruiiiing lever, a reciprocating lifting rod adapted for engagement with said lift-ing pin and provided with a lateral lug, a lifting rock-shaft, a collar t-hereon provided Vwith a lateral finger adapted to engage said lateral lug, a swinging controlling lever, a cam for imparting operative movements to said controlling lever, and a lateral arm upon said lifting rock-shaft adapted for engagement with said controlling lever. y
37. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rutliing device and an actuator therefor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said rutfling device and actuator', a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a propelling ratchet-wheel, means for actuating the same, a plurality of clutchpawls carried by said cam with their respective teeth spaced apart differentially in relation to the spacing of the ratchet Wheel teeth, and a pawl-lifter acting simultaneously upon said pavvls in interrupting and establishing their operative relation with said ratchet-wheel.
38. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruftling device and an actuator therelishing and interrupting driving relation between said ruliiing device and actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a propelling 'ratchet-wheel, means for actuating the same, a plurality of clutchpawls carried by said cam with their respective teeth spaced apart differentially in rrelation to the spacing of the ratchet-wheel teeth, a pawl-lifter acting simultaneously upon said pawls in interrupting and establishing their operative relation with said ratchet -wheel, and automatically act-ing means for returning the cam to initial posi-V tion after each unclutching operat-ion.
39. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruttling device and an actuator therefor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interruptingV driving relation between said ruiiiing device and actuator, a controlling cam'for operating said coupling member, a propelling ratchetwheel, means for actuating the same, a plurality of clutch-pawls carried by said cam with their respective teeth spaced apart differentially in Yrelation to the spacingY of the ratchet wheel teeth, a vpawl-lifter pivotally mounted upon said cam vand acting simultaneously upon said pawls in interrupting and establishingv their operative relation with said ratchet-wheel, and provided with an arm substantially in radial relation with l its pivotal support and formed with `a wedge-shaped tooth, a wedge-pointed spring pressed latch block opposed to said wedge-shaped tooth of the radial pawl-lifterk arm, and an adjustable carrier for said latch-block mounted upon said cam. n
40. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rattling device and an actuator thereteeth, a pawl-lifter pivotallyk mounted upon Y said cam and acting simultaneously upon said pawls in interrupting and establishing their operative relation with said ratchetwheel, and provided with an arm substan- Y tia-lly inV radial relation with its pivotal support and formed withawedge-shaped tooth, a wedge-pointed spring-pressed latch-block opposed to said wedge-shaped tooth ofthe radial pawl-lifter arm, a carrier-block for sustaining said latch-block, a rotary pin Y mounted upon said cam and upon one end of which said carrier-block is fixed, and means for axially adjusting the position of said 1n. p 4l. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ru'liling device and an actuator therefor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said ruftling device and actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a propelling ratchet-wheel, means for actuating the same, a plurality of clutchpawls carried by said cam with their respective teeth spaced apart differentially in relation to the spacing ofthe ratchet-wheel teeth, a pawl-lifter pivotally mounted upon said cam and acting simultaneously upon said pawls in interrupting and establishing their operative relation with said ratchet-wheel,
and provided withV an arm substantially in i radial relation with its 'pivotal support and formed with a wedge-shaped tooth, a wedgepointed spring-pressed latch-block opposed to said wedge-shaped tooth of the radial pawl-lifter arm, a carrier-block for sustaining said latch-block, a rotary pin mounted upon said cam and upon one end of which said carrier-block is fixed, a collar fixed upon the opposite end of said pin and provided with oppositely extending arms, and adjusting means applied to said arms for tilting said collar and pin. i
42. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rattling device and an actuator therefor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said rutlling device and actuator, a
controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch-device whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means including a spring for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, and a retarding device for arresting the movement of said cam as it approaches initial position.
43. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruHing device and an actuator therefor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said ruliling device and actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch device whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means including a reciprocating block and a spring connected therewith for returning said cam to initial position after each at vance movement with said propelling member, an air cylinder having a contracted passage or port leading outwardly from the end toward which said block is pressed by its spring, and a plunger fitted within said cylinder and operatively connected with said reciprocating block. 4
44. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruiliing device and an actuator therefor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said rutlling device an actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch device whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means including a reciprocating block and a spring connected therewith for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, an air cylinder having a contracted passage or port leading outwardly from the end toward which said block is pressed by its spring, a plunger fitted within said cylinder and operatively connected with said reciprocating block, and a valve within said port of the air cylinder.
45. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruifling device and an actuator there- Jfor, of a coupling member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said rutliing device and actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch device whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, a detaining hook adjacent the path of movement of said cam, a spring-pressed latehplate pivot-ally mounted upon said cam and provided with a latch-piece norvmally adapted to engage said detaining hook and with a cam-slot, and a spring shift-lever fulcrumed upon said cam eccentrically with the cam-slot of said latch-plate in outer or operative posit-ion and provided with a pin entering said cam-slot and adapted to frictionally engage an adjacent part of said cam whereby the working of said leve-r in normal operation of the machine is resisted.
46. In a sewing machine, the combination with a ruil'linfr device and an actuator therefor, of a coupIing member adapted for establishing and interrupting driving relation between said ru'tlling device and actuator, a controlling cam for operating said coupling member, a rotary propelling member, a clutch device comprising a rocking cammember whereby driving relation is established and interrupted between said propelling member and cam, means for returning said cam to initial position after each advance movement with said propelling member, a stop-wheel, a tripping stud thereon adapted for engagement with said rocking cam-member to throw the clutch into action, a rot-ary spindle connected with said stopwheel for turning the same to determine the position of its tripping stud, a rictional brake device for imposing a resistance to the turning of said spindle, and a fixed tripping pin also adjacent said controlling cam for engaging said rocking cam-member to throw the clutch device out of action at the end of its advance movement.
In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this speeiication, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
ALBERT H. DE VOE.
Witnesses:
HENRY J. MILLER, Josnrrr F. J AQUITH.
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