US950179A - Pulling-over machine. - Google Patents

Description

E. ILLA GHAPELLE.

PULLING OVER MACHINE.

APPLICATION rILnnwLY 22, 1909.

950,179. H ratented'Fenzz, 1910.

a sums-sum 1.

"III IIIHIIHHIIHU r: jwwz IZaC/ca veZZe,

B. I. LA GHAiBLLB.

PULLING OVER MACHINE. APPLICATION PILED JULY 22, 1909.

Patent ed Feb. 22, 1910.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

V fad/ 06% 6 fZia/eidton- -E. 1. LA GHAPBLLB.

PULLING OVER MAGHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 22, 1909.

Patented Feb. 22, 1910;

3 BHBETS-SHEE II I page;

EUCLID I. LA CHAPELLE, OF BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS.

PULLING-OVER MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 22, 1910..

Application filed July 22, 1909. Serial No. 508,944.

an Improvement in Pulling-Over Machines,

of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification,- like numerals on the drawings representing like parts.

My presentinvention is a machine for pulling the upper over the last, being one of -the steps in lasting boots and shoes.

Certain features of my invention may be used in the assembling operation.

In carrying out my invention I preferably grasp the shoe upper back of the toe of the last, and preferably on or back of the tip line so that the upper is pulled along the lines of the last when being pulled forward and is not raised off from the "last. Besides pulling the upper thus lengthwise, I provide means for pulling the edges of the upper at points between the toe and the shank transversely of the last or toward the bottom and at the same time with a slightly forward movement, thereby still further holding the I vamp seam to the lines of the last while the vamp is beingstretched over the last. \Vhen thus stretched over the last the upper is secured at its opposite sides preferably adjacent the tip line. This avoids the usual securing of the extreme toe end of the vamp and hence does away with the subsequent extra operation of pulling out any extreme toeend fastening (or, in McKay shoes, of cuttin through the upper around the fastening A further distinguishing feature of my invention is that the pulling means is so constructed that it does not pull the leather, at the extreme end of the toe, over the edge of the last, but instead thereof pulls said leather 5 aheadof the toe or at the extreme forwar end of the upper, the upper will thereby ob-' forward without-bending it over the last. a I'gras'p the upper back from the toe, preferablyat'or back of the tip line, with a combined dowii'wardand forward movement so that the appeals held snugly down approximately against the last throughout the entire pullingmovement. Bearing in mind that the toe of the last is usually higher than the instep portion of the last, it' will be evident that when the pull on the upper is applied viously be pulled away fromthe last just back of the raised toe portion, whereas by grasping the upper back of this raised toe portion at said hollow or lower portion of the last which is approximately at or back of the tip line, and then applying a forward pull combined with a downward pressure against the last, the upper will obviously not be raised but will be compelled to follow the lines of the last. The resultis that in the subsequent steps of the lasting operation the usual severe strain which frequently tears the upper is not necessary, and also in the still subsequent operation just before the welt sewing, when the tacks are withdrawn from the upper, there is no tendency for the upper to spring back out of place as heretofore, because the upper has not been unduly strained away from the last at the pulling over operation and when the fastenings were inserted. In other words, my invention aims to bring a uniform strain in natural directions at all points of the upper so that no one point of the upper is distorted or overstrained.

IVhile it is possible to employ the usual grippers in carrying out my invention, simply giving them new directions and timing of movements, I prefer to do away with the ordinary grippers and employ entirely new mechanism throughout. Also while the invention, in its broader aspects, is not limited as to the'number of separate pulling means employed, I have found one pulling means at each side and one between at-the top suffioient, in connection with proper heel-seat and shank forming or holding mechanism.

Also while my invention is not limited to the location of the pulling means, as for instance, when jaws are employed, they may be located at' the ball or further toward or from the shank and there may be any number of them and they may have various turning movements besidesthe simple pullingmovement, but preferably I employ simply pulling jaws or devices located at the rear corners of the tip. This latter will be suflicient in some cases without the intermediate top jaws or pullin devices, as for instance when said interme iate jaw or its equivalent tip corner jaws curved'to the-lastand extendingpractically to the vamp seam, have been previously used on an assembling mad chine and the shank only has been wiped in and fastened, in which case the subsequent drawings, in which I have shown a pullin over operation may be practically carried out simply by the side jaws or pulling devices at or back of the corners otthe ti Further advantages, construction and operation of my machine will be pointed out in the course of the following description, taken with reference to the accompanying preferred embodiment of the machine.

In the drawings, Fi ure 1 is a view in side elevation, parts being 'roken away for clearness of illustration; Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view ofa shoe and last showing the vamp ulled over by my machine; Fig. 2 is a ront elevation of one .of the cams; Fig. 3 is a view in side elevation of a part of the pulling mechanism at the limit of its upward movement; Fig. 4 is a transverse section on the line 4-4, Fig. 1; Fig. 5 is a side view of a .ortion of the heel and shank forming and olding devices; Fig. 6 is a view looking toward the left at Fig. 5; Fig. 7 is a section on line 77, Fig. 5; Fig. 8 is a section on line 88, Fig. 5; Fig. 9 is a longitudinal sectional detail of the upper grippers; Fig. 10 is a section on line 1010, Fig. 9;'Fig. 11 is a sectional detail of the forepart support or rest and sole-adjusting means; and Fig."12 is a bottom plan view looking at Fig. 11 toward the underside. On a suitable pedestal 1 journaledin a head 2 is a main drivingshaft 3 which car ries a cam 4 for operating the side pincers hereinafter described, a cam '5 for operating the upper-pulling mechanism, a cam 6 for operating the tack-feeding devices, a earn 7 for operating the sole-adjusting devices, a cam 8 for actuating the side tackers (through mechanism not shown), and a cam 9 for operating the forepart support. The tacking mechanism may be of any usual or preferred kind, being herein shown as substantial ly the same as in the McFeely patent No. 663,777, for tacking only at the opposite sides of the shoe and comprising in general a'ho per 10 whose agitator is operated by a pinion l1, segment lever 12 and rod 13, the latter. being connected with the slide 14 carrying a cam roll 15. The tacks are delivered through two chutes or raceways 16, one at each side of the machine, only one thereof being herein shown, and the tack-driving mechanism is'indicated at 17 for driving tacks at each side of the shoe as indicated at 18, 19, Fig. 2 (see also Fig.

81 of the McFeely patent, my machine omitting, however, the toe tack and its driving mechanism and employing only the two side tackers). Theseside tacking devices are pivoted at their upper ends at 20 and swung toward and from each other into and out of tack-driving position at the opposite sides of the shoe by being operated by a hand lever 21 or automatically by the cam 8, all as in explamed in further detail. The vamp 22 on a last 23 in usual manner is placed in a heel rest or support and shank shaper consisting of two side plates or wings 24, 25, best shown in Figs. 1, 5 and 6. lhe toe of the last rests against a toe rest or projecting finger 26 secured to and projecting forward from an extension 27 of the forepart support or rest and sole adjuster 28. Thelatter consists, as best shown in Figs. 1, 4, 11, and 12, of a block or carrier 29 provided with opposite grooves 30, 31, in which reciprocate slides 32, 33 provided at their forward ends with sole- engaging feet 34, 35, herein shown as preferably secured immovably to said slides, which are retained in sliding position by side ribs 36 and operated by engagement.

of their racks 37 with pinions'38, 39 fast on a shaft 40. Loose on the shaft is a sleeve 41 provided at one end with a pinion or gear 42 and at its other end with a friction disk 43, said gear meshing with a rackbar 44 mounted to slide longitudinally and actuated by the engagement of its cam roll 45 with the cam 7 against which it is held by said shaft 40 and held under desired tension by a collar 51 connected by a flanged sleeve 52 to a hand tension wheel 53 threaded on the outer. end 54 of said shaft 40. Thus when, the last with its innersole (in this case a McKay innersole) having been put in position, the upward movement of the feet 45 is caused by the forward movement of the rack 44, the frictional or yielding connection between said rack bar and the actuating shaft 40permits said feet to halt as soon as the innersole strikes the stop 26, or in other words coincides with the end of the last. The yielding connection at 43, 49

permits the rack bar 44 to complete its camactuated movement after the shaft 0 has come to a halt. The rack bars are s opped on their return movement by a pin 55.

At each side of the block 28 on the adjacent front side of the frame 2 are opposite ways 56 in which travel the sliding ends 57 of a carriage 58 in which are mounted longitudinally extending pins 59 which serve as the pivots of blocks ,60 to each of which is pivoted at 61 an arm 62 provided with two lugs 63, 64 between which extends the free end of a spring 65 fast at its other end to the head of the pin 59, thereby-normally maintaining said arm 62in an intermediate forward position, each arin'being held yieldingly outward and upward at its outer ends by a spring 66 carried by the arm and bearing against the face of the adjacent block 60, thereby normally maintaining the ratchet teeth 67 of each of said arms 62 out of engagement with the opposite teeth 68 of the carriage 58, said teeth being best shown in F igs. 7 and 8. On the outer ends of said arms 62 is mounted a double ,ended pawl or, more properly, opposite pawls 69, 70 rigidly connected by a bar 71 to which on the opposite side of the adjacent ends of the arms are secured by any suitable means, as by pins 72, posts 73 carrying a transverse plate 74 whose outer arms 75 support and guide rods 76 pivotally connected at their inner ends at 77 to the side plates or wings 24, 25, supported by segment arms 78 pivoted at 79 to the opposite ends of said plate as best shown 1n Fig. 5, said wings 24, 25 and arms 78 being held inwardly to. hold the work by springs 80 on the rods 76. The said plates or wings 24, 25 are inwardly curved at 81 and outwardly curved at 82, being curved toward each other again at their rear ends at 83, with the result that when the work is placed against the flaring outer ends 84 and either pressed inwardly toward the pivot 79 or held stationary and the mechanismpressed upwardly over the work, the inwardly bulging portions 81 of the wings crowd against and rub toeward alon the edges of the heelseat and gradually rtib inward and embrace the shank part of the vamp and vamp seam. The final position of the work is preferably with the extreme end of the heel resting against the inner curve of the arms 7 8 just in front of the pivot 79. i

The wings orshank and heelseat forming plates 24, 25 are preferably sufiiciently wide, see Fig. 5, to embrace not only the counter and shank proper but reach up to and over the vamp seam so that the placing of the work in position will have to hold the vamp seam to :the lines of the last prior to and during the forward pull of the vamp by the pulling mechanism to be described. This mechanism is normally held upward by opposite springs 85, one on each side of the pedestal 1, mounted on rods 86 secured at their upper ends to lugs 87 of the carriage 58 and at their lower ends loosely sliding in brackets 88 against which the lower ends of the springs bear, their upper ends engaging adjustable stops 89.

At each side of the carriage toothed locking bars 90 are provided, secured rigidly to the frame by arms 91 opposite the pawls 69, 70 to coiiperate therewith in locking the carriage and work held thereby in desired position. Vertical slots 92 are provided at about the middle of these bars, extending longitudinally thereof, so that when the pawls 69, 70 are in their normal intermediate position they canvmove freely up and down without engaging in any way the teeth of the locking bars 90, but when moved slightly sidewise in either direction they instantly engage and are locked by said teeth.

When the work is first placed in the wings or holders 24, 25, the pawls 69, 70 being in their intermediate position, the spring 85 moves or holds the work pressed tightly against the rest 26 whatever the size of the last, and,the shoe having been thus correctly positioned as to height, the operator swings the heel-part one way or the other according to the crookedness of the last, whether a right or left, so as to bring the forepart of the last and work into correct relation with the pulling mechanism, and this swinging movement of said heel-part causes said pawls 69, 70 to move laterally in one direction or the other, thereby being locked against vertical movement either up or down. i

As already stated, the forepart pulling mechanism consists of side pullers preferably in the form of pincers, at least one at each side, and preferably a third pulling device in the form of pincers arranged to pull the top of the vamp, engaging at or back of the tip line and following approximately along the surface of the last as the vamp is pulled forward. The side pincers or grippers are shown in detail in Fig. 9 and preferably are the same as in the patent before mentioned, comprising opposite jaws 93, 94, the former fixed and the latter movable, being pivoted at 95 and normally held closed by a pivoted latch 96 and spring 97. The fixed jaw 93 is at the end of a tubular member 98 within which is mounted an endwise movable shank 99 supported at its upper end for universal movement by a balland socket joint 100 and at its lowerv end having a projection 101 which controls the opening and closing movements of the jaw 94 which is pivotally carried by links 102 pivoted at their upper ends to a block 103 having a wedge-shaped tongue 104 for cooperating with clutch rolls 105 normally held up by springs 106 to a position just above the top of the tongue 104 bearing againstthe adjacentshoulder 107 on the shank 99, said block being'normally held up by a heavy spring 108. The latch 96 engages a sliding block 109 which cooperates in controlling the movable jaw 94. The jaw 93 is held against downward movement at the proper times by theengagement of the shoulders 110 with an extension 111 of the frame. These side pincers or grippers are otherwise free to move with their shanks inwardly and outwardly and forward and backward over the last as required for the pulling operation. The upward movement is communicated to these side grippers by opposite levers 112,

113, both actuated from the same slide 114 &

the slide 114 through two collars 117, 118 mounted on a rod 119 and the former held yieldingly by a spring 120 whose tension is regulated by a thumb nut121. As the grippers move upwardly they are also directed forward by the engagement of studs 122 projecting from the adjacent lower end of the tubular member 98 in engagement with a path cam 123' deflected forward at its lower end, provided in a guide casing 124 which partly surrounds the gripper shanks and is free to slide laterally or transversely of the shoe, having a directing rib or tongue 125 to slide in a groove 126 on the frame of the machine, so that as the grippers are moved upwardly by their levers 112, 113 they are simultaneously moved forward by the cam grooves 123. When the grippers have strained the vamp upward and forward to the desired extent they are moved inwardly so as to bend the leather over the opposite edges of the last in position to be tacked and are simultaneously released from the leather, by the lateral inward swinging movement of the tackdriving devices 17 previously mentioned, which, as they swing inwardly in order to bring their driving ends (which also serve as wipers) into position over the last,

' strike against the gripper mechanism'so as to swing the grippers inwardly, and at the same time because of their engagement with the latches 96, release the grippers from the vamp, all substantially as shown and described in the patent before mentioned. The middle grippers which operate along the middle or center of the vamp'at or back of the tip seam, or at least back-of the toe of the last and vamp, are herein shown as also of the pincer kind substantially the same, in this respect, as the side grippers, comprising jaws 127, 128. The jaw 127 is hinged at 129 to the forward end of a' centrally arranged lever 130 fulcrumed at 131 and pivotally connected at 132 with a vertically movable slide 133 carrying a cam roll 134 in engagement with the cam 5. The hinge joint 129 is a knuckle joint, and a s' ring 135 normally holds the jaw 127 against the last, said spring engaging at its opposite ends lugs 136, 137 on the jaw 127 and lever-130 respectively. The jaw 128 comprises two members, 138, 139 pivoted together at 140 by the same kind of joint as the oint 129, which isfsimilarly spanned by a spring 141 engaging lugs 142, 143,.of said two arts of the jaw, for holding the part 138 yleldingly toward the work and against the jaw 127 when in gripping position. A slot 144 in the rear part 139 of the outer gripper jaw receives a block 145 which is'pivotally supported-by the jaw 127 and is normally locked by a dog 146v-which is guided in a branch slot 147 from the main slot 144 and held yieldingly forward by a spring 148, being retained by a thumb nut 149, but when the gripper jaws' 127, 128 are moved toeward by the upward swing of their carrying lever 130, a roll 150 projecting from the dog 146 slides along the cam edge 151 of a stationary plate 152 secured to the extension 111 of the frame of the machine, thereby releasing the dog 146 from engagement with the block 145 at the end of the vamp stretching or toeward pulling movement.

The plate or upper member 139 of the outer jaw 128 has a rearwardly extending arm or portion 153 provided with a roll 154 i which travelsin a cam groove 155 in the stationary plate 152 offset at'its lower end 156 and concentric with the center of swinging movement 131 throughout its upper extent, operating to'place the jaws under gripping pressure with relation to the leather when the lever 130 is raised by the cam 5, the lever 130 being shown in an intermediate position, Fig. 1', the deflected portion 156 operating to swing the outer jaw toe ward to open the gripper when the lever 130' reaches itsjlowest osition. The instant the gripper starts on 1ts upward movement, the cam 155 operates through the roll 154 and arm 153 to swing the outer jaw on the block 145 as a pivot so as to close the jaw 128 against the jaw 127 with a clamping pressure against the interposed leather, which is maintained during the desired toeward stretching or forward pulling over movement of the gripper on the leather, until the two jaws are released from each other by the disengagement of the dog 146 of the outer jaw from the block 145 of the inner jaw caused by the lifting action of the cam 151' against the roll, 150 of said dog, whereupon the outer jaw 128 stops its toeward movement, inasmuch at it is no longer positively connected to the inner jaw 127 and is halted by the engagement of its leather-engaging end with the leather, and the continued u ward swing-of the lever 130 meanwhile gra ually withdraws the inner jaw 127 from beneath the vamptthe pivot block 145 sliding idly along the slot 144. During this toeward pulling movement the springs 135 and 143 hold the two jaws 127 and 128 yieldingly toward the last so as to hold the vamp against the last and follow the lines of the last, and at the same time the cam 9 swings the forepart support 28 so as to force the last toward these jaws and thereby cotiperate therewith in maintaining the desired relation. The member 28 is subsequently returned to its original osition by a spring 157 fast at one end and bearing at its other end against the frame 2.

The nose or engaging end of the jaw 128 is provided with an engaging pad 158 prefout danger of damage to the leather in case of an excessive pull, in which latter case the jaw yields under the action of spring 141."

Vhen the two jaws are automatically released from each other, as explained, this desirable for the most perfect pulling overv operation. This strain is even on both sides and is accomplished equally along the vamp seam at each side of the last and throughout the whole length of said vamp seam. This is especially valuable in working on blucherstyle shoes, and constitutes one of the most important and novel features of my machine. In very heavy shoes I preferably grip back far enough to engage the front ends of the shoe top directly at the vamp seam itself so as to bring practically all the initial strain directly on the seam without stretching the vamp, the "latter being then stretched by the subsequent toeward movement of the side grippers, after the under jaw 127 of the middle gripper has been withdrawn from beneath the vamp. At the end of the forward vamp pulling movement the under jaw 127 of the pincers has passed entirely out from under the vamp so as to permit the leather to lie tight against the last underthe combined action of, thejaw 128 and the side grippers previously de scribed together with the cooperating pressure and movement of the forepart support just described. At the end of the upward movement of the lever 130, the parts carried at the forward end of the latter occupy the position shown in Fig. 3. As a rule the vamp will be engaged just back of the tip seam andthe outer jaw 128 does not slide on the leather but simply cooperates with the inner jaw 127 to strain or pull the leather lengthwise and hold it on the last at all times, both during the pulling movement of the middle gripper as well as during the pulling movement of-the said grippers.

At the start the operator places the forepart of the vamp at the middle portion thereof between the jaws 127 and 128 and the side edges of the vamp between the open jaws of the side grippers. During the forward straining of the vamp by the 'middle gripper, the side grippers remain open and the side edges of the vamp are free to shift forward between the jaws of said side grippers under the straining movement of the middle gripper, and just as the middle gripper stops its forward pull on the vamp the side grippers close on the adjacent edges of the vamp, and as soon as the inner jaw 127 of the middle gripper'hasmoved out fromibeneath the vamp so that the latter is free to set itself tightagainst the last, the side grippers begin their pulling movement with the combined bottomward and toeward or diagonal straining movement previou'sly descrlbed. Y 1

As already stated, as soon as the final stretching of the. vamp or pulling over movement is completed the tacks 18, 19 are driven at the opposite sides of the toeas shown in Fig. 2, thereby retaining the vamp ,in its pulled over position on the last, the

jaw 128 of the middle gripper aiding-materially in holding the last rigidly during the driving in of these fastenings at theside's' j part of the vamp back of the toe of the last I has been set on the last and the operations have been performed which have been described above as constituting the main fea tures of my -invention, but I desire it clearly to be understood that my invention makes it feasible to do away with the pull on the extreme toe end of the vamp and with the usual tack in said extreme toe end. This not only makes a material saving in time.

but it avoids the frequent cause of mutilating or crippling shoes, due to applying the longitudinal stretching pull on the vamp at the toe end or endv of the tip of the vamp which frequently results in tearing the leather and straining the tip seam. hen the pulling over strain is applied at the extreme toe end of the vamp, not only does the strain come in front of the tip seam, thereby tending to open said seam, but the pull when applied at this point necessarily lifts or ralses the vamp away from the last between the top of the toe and the throat of the vamp at the instep, and also tends to pull in and bind the ends of the quarters on a blucher shoe without getting the desired straightforward pull on the vamp from the heelseat alongthe counter and at'the sides of the last. Furthermore by having my middle gripper, arranged. as shown and described, see Fig. 9, the gripping jaws can be wide straight across the vamp, or at least .wide enough to get in line with the vamp seam at the opposite sides. Also by having the middle gripper engage the vamp back from the toe in the hollow. which always exists in alast between the raised top of the toe} end of the last and the base of the instep of the last,

, and by having said middle gripper exert its ing's a'id pull, and is not strained awa pull forward in connection with a simultaneous downward or last-ward pressure,

the vamp is kept to the lines of the last durfrom the shank and ball of the last as is t e case when the pull is at and ,over the toe end of the last. Also by applying the pulling pres sure of my middle gripper at the region mentioned and in the manner mentioned, and by maintaining the vamp held toward and against the last while the side grippers exert their bottomward andtoeward pull on the side edges of the vamp, the latter is never subjected to the usual unequal strains which have heretofore proved liable to twist the side of the vamp at the shank and ball region, and a still more important result of this special combined operation of the middle gripper and side grippers, or in other words, of setting the top'of the vamp back of the toe of the last onto the last before the longitudinal side ed es of the vam have been fully stretched, 1s that there is no m'erstraining of the leather at and just in front of.the ball or widest portion of the vamp and shoe as heretofore'in the usualside lasting operation. Said overstrai'ning at the region mentioned is what produces the overtight, strained appearance of the leather, and tendency to wrinkle in many shoes just back of the tip seam.

As long as the vamp is strained, set, or held toward the last at the region between th me end of the last and the instep before or during the longltudinal pullin over movements on the vamp, I consider that my invention, in the broadest aspect of this fea ture thereof, is availed of. For instance by omitting the under jaw 127 of the middle gripper, the outer jaw 128 serves simply to press and hold the vamp. down against the last at the region mentioned or hollow back of the top of the toe, and the side grippers would then be depended upon for effecting the toeward straining movement of the vamp, supplemented or not by a hand wiping operation at the toe end of the vamp. In such case the object would be to use the middle gripper for exerting a mild pull or external'rubbing action on the vamp lastward down the longitudinal center of the vamp toward the toe, priorto straining the vamp lengthwise by means of the side grip- 'the vamp may be accomplished either by retioned, and this same remarkf'applies to vamps which have been previous y pulled lengthwise'in the shank atthe assembling operation. This external mild straining of moving the under jaw (preferably when there are many such cases to handle) or by simply resting the entire middle gripper externally of the vamp (preferably when there are only a few such cases to handle in the general run").. In the latter case both jaws of saidmiddle gripper press the vamp last- Ward and set the vamp and vamp seam to the lines of the last at theinstep by a mild forward pull or rubbing action on the vamp (or on the'lining, if a turn shoe) prior to the straining of the vamp lengthwise bythe side grippers. In such case, the jaw 128 continuesto hold the vamp on the last to prevent any receding movement or strain of the vamp toward the heel, after the under jaw 127 has passed forward away from the toe, said jaw 128 preferably continuing so as to hold the vamp during the applying of fastenings at the bottom thereof.

A further feature of my invention, which is also to be particularlynoted, resides in providing means for releasing the toeward straining movement on the vamp before the side grippers have completedtheir bottomward pull on the last (or the opposite movement of the last toward the vamp). Also the provision of means (in thepreferred construction herein shown, consisting of the wings or holding plates which embrace the .counter and heelseat) forstraining forward and holding the counter and the shank of the last, in connection with means for holding the forepart of the vamp bottomward toward the last in the hollow back of the toe, and means for securing the vamp to the sole while thus held ata point or points between the toe and the heelseat. Also the provision, in connection with means for lengthwise straining the vamp, of means for forming and holding the heelseat and shank part including the vamp seam and the vamp, to the last before or during said lengthwise straining of the vamp.

Having described my invention, what I claim asnew and desire to secure by Letters Patent is: I

-1. In a machine of the kind described,

mechanism for straining a vamp longitudinally, including automatic, power stretch ing means engaging the vam back of the extreme toe-end ofthe last, aving a forward pulling movement substantially in the direction of the vamp seam for stretching the vamp of said toe-end prior to the stretching of the vamp at said toe-end, and 00-, operating means to hold said toe-end of the last against said straining movement.

2. In a machine of the kind described,

mechanism for straining a vamp longituking said vamp longitudinally, including dinally, including automatic,power stretchmg means engagin the vamp at or back of the tip seam of tie vamp, having a for.- ward pulling movement terminating back of the toe-endof the last, and cooperating means to hold an entire last from and including its extreme toe-end to its heel-end against said straining movement.

3. In a machine of the kind described, mechanism; for-straining a" vamp longitudinally, including means holding the vamp toward .the last at the hollow region back of the toe, and simultaneously stretching the vamp lengthwise back of the toe of the last, prior to the straining of the extreme toe-end of the vamp and prior to the fastening of the vamp to the forepart of the last.

4. In a machine of the kind described, mechanism for straining a vamp longitudinally, including means holding the vamp toward the last at the hollow region back of the toe, and simultaneously stretching the vamp lengthwise, means for forming the shank part of the vamp toward and about the last, and means for subsequently fastening the vamp to the forepart of the last, all While the vamp is under lengthwise strain.

In a machine of the kind 'described adapted to handle an entire vamp having a complete toe-portion, mechanism for strainstretching means for engaging the to of the vamp back of said toe portion at or ack of the tip seam thereof.

6. In a machine of the kind described, mechanism for straining a vamp longitudinally, including stretching means for engaging the top of the vamp at or back of the tip seam, and means for simultaneously moving said stretching means under bottomward pressure'on the vamp.

7. In a machine of the kind described, mechanism for'straining a vamp longitudinally while being shaped on a last having an entire toe-end, including automatic stretching means for engaging the top of the vamp at or back of the tip seam, and cooperating automatic means for shaping the vam to the lines of the last while under the influence of said automatic stretching means.

8. In a machine of the kind described adapted to handle an entire vamp having a complete toe-portion, mechanism for straining a vamp longitudinally while bein shaped on a last having. an entire toe-en including automatic stretching means for engaging the top of the-vamp at or back of the tip seam, and cotiperating means for shaping the vamp at the shank and fore part to the lines of the last while under the influence of said automatic stretching means.

9. In a machine of the kind described, means to'shape a vamp at the shank to the.

.lines of a last, and mechanism tohold the vamp 'bottomward at the forep'art of the last and simultaneously stretch the vamp lengthwise substantially in the direction of the vamp seam. I

10. In a machine of the kind described, means to stop the last at a predetermmed point, and cotiperating stretching mechanism, including means adapted to engage the vamp at or back of the tip seam, and controlling mechanism limitmg the pulling movement of said engaging means to a predetermined distance from the toe.

11. In a machine ofthe kind described, means to stop the last at a predetermined oint, and cotiperating stretching mechanism, including means adapted to engage the vamp at or back of the tip seam, controlling mechanism limiting the pulling movement of said engaging means to av predetermined distance from the 'toe, and means to adjust said stopping'means.

12. In a machine of the kind described, the combination with vamp-stretching means to stretch the vamp longitudinally, of heelseat shaping means, includin holding mechanism embracing and firm y holding all parts of the upper about the counter and having a shank engaging and shaping portion.

13. In a machine of the kind described, forward stretching means for maintaining a vamp and its vamp seam under tension at or back of the tip seam while leaving the tip without strain, means for holding the heelseat and shank portion in shaped position toward the last, and means for fastening the forepart of the vamp to the last while so held.

14. In a machine of the kind described, vamp pulling means for engaging the top of the vamp and stretching the same toeward, means to engage and stretch the vamp bottomward, and releasing means to release the first mentioned stretching means before ,the 1 completion. of the movement of the second stretching means. Y

15. In a machine of the kind described, means for forming and holding the heelmeans for relatively moving said means and the upper longitudinally of the last, means engaging said upper along the vamp seam and means to move said engaging means with a vamp stretching movement.

16. In a machine of the kind described, the combination with means for engaging and stretching the top of a vamp toeward while leaving the top without strain, of side grippers having bottomward and toeward 125 stretching movements while the vamp is so held by said means and prior to the stretching of said tip. 4

17. In a machine of the kind described, a

toe rest to limit the toeward movement of a. 130

last in the machine, and heclseat and shank forming mechanism, held under strong yielding pressure toward said rest,-for engaging with a sliding shaping movement the counter portion and shank portion of a vamp and holding both of said portions in shaped position toward-the last while under the lengthwise frictional strain.

18. In a machine of the kind described, atoe rest to limit the toeward movement of the last in the machine, and heel-seat andshank forming mechanism, held under strong yielding pressure toward said rest, for engaging with a sliding shaping movement the counter portion andishank' portion of a vamp including the vamp seam and holding said counter portion, said shank portion and saidvamp seam in stretched and shaped position toward the last while under said lengthwise frictional strain.

19. In a machine of the kind described, a toe rest to limit the toeward movement of a last in the machine, and heel-seat and shank forming mechanism, held under strong yielding pressure toward said rest, for engaging with a sliding shaping move- I ment the counter portion and shank portion of a vamp, said mechanism including opposite side shaping wings curved to the shape of the vamp and to the shape of the shank along, the sides thereof, and tension means normally pressing said wings hard against thevamp and the shank;

- 20. In a machine of the kind described,

,a toe rest to limit the toeward movement of a last in the machine, and heel-seat and shank forming mechanism, held under strong yielding pressure toward said rest,

for engaging with a sliding shaping movement the counter portion and shank portion of a vamp, said mechanism including shaping wings pivotally supported intermediate their length forengaging the vamp along the sides thereof and tension means normally pressing said wings hard against the vamp. a

21. In a machine of the kind described, a toe rest to limit the toeward movement of a last in the machine, and heel-seat and shank forming mechanism, held under strong yielding pressure toward saidrest,

for engaging with a sliding shaping move a toe rest to limit the toeward movement of a last in the. machine, and heel-seat and shank forming mechanism, held under strongyielding pressure toward said rest,

pressing said wings hard against the vamp,

pivotal supporting means for said opposite wings permitting them to have a bodily edgewise pivotal movement, and means permitting said wings and the work engaged thereby to swing .angularly in the normal plane of the last in a direction perpendicular to the last mentioned pivotal movement.

23. In a machine of the kind described, a toe rest to limit the toeward movement of a last in the machine, and heel-seat and shank forming mechanism, held under strong yielding pressure toward said rest, for engaging with a sliding shaping movement the counter portion and shank portion of a;.vamp, said mechanism including shaping wings pivotally supported intermediate their length for engaging the vamp along the sides thereof, tension means normally pressing said wings hard against the vamp, pivotal supporting means for said opposite wings permitting them to have a bodily edgewise pivotal movement, means permitting said wings and the work engaged thereby 'to swing angularly in the normal plane of the last in a direction perpendicular to the last mentioned pivotal movement, and means for automatically locking said mechanism and the work supported thereby in its final pivotal adjustment with relation to said toe rest.

24. In a machine of the kind described ing mechanism maintaining said members in gripping relation to the work for stretching thelatter and permitting the inner member to move out of gripping relation while the outer member still maintains its gripping relation against the work.

25. In a machine of the kind described, gripper means for stretching a vamp, including two gripping members, and operating mechanism maintaining said members in gripping relation to the work for a pre-' determined extent of forward movement and permitting the inner member then to continue said movement out of gripping relation with the outer member, and maintaining the outer member in continuous holding engagement with the work. w

26. In a machine of the' kind described, gripper means for stretching a vamp toeward, including two gripping members, and

operating mechanism maintaining said members in gripping relation to the work I for a predetermined extent of the toeward stretching movement and permitting the inner member then to continue said movement out of gripping relation with the work rate continued movement of th inner member.

27. In a machine of the kind described, gripper means for stretching a vamp,'ineluding twogripping members, and operating means for dissimultaneously separating said members from gripping relation with the work. prior to the final disengagement of the work by said gripper means.

28. In a machine of the kind described, gripper means for stretching a vamp, in-

cluding an outer gripping member and an inner gripping member normally engaging and gripping the work between them, and operating mechanism, including means maintaining a constant inward pressure of said gripper means toward the last, and means moving said two members forward with a preliminary stretching movement and then permitting them to separate, the inner member moving out. from under the work while the outer member still holds the work. i

29. In a 'machine'of the kind described, gripper means for stretching a vamp, including an actuating lever, a gripping jaw pivoted thereon, a second jaw movably mounted on said first jaw, and means requiring said two jaws to move together with said arm during their stretching movement, the first mentioned jaw having thereafter an independent movement away from the other aw. 30. ,In amachine of the kind described, gripper means for stretching a vamp, including a main actuating device, a jaw secured thereto, and a second jaw comprising a rear part having a *pin and slot connection to said first jaw, a forward gripping part pivoted to said eir art, and spring means I normally holdingsai forward gripping part toward the work, locking means normally holding said two jaws together for their 'stretchlng movement, and releasing means unlocking said two jaws at the end of said stretching movement.

31.' In a.machine of-the kind described, v

automatic power-actuated means for engaging avamp with a rubbing action toward the toe of the last back of said toe of the last, andadditional means for straining said vamp lengthwise.

32. In a machine of the kind described, means for holding a .vamp lastward back of the toe of the last, additional means for straining said vamp lengthwise, and operating means maintaining said holding means in external contact with the vamp during lengthwise straining of; said vamp;

33. In a machine of the kind described, mechanism for straining a vamp, including automatic power-actuated means for externally engaging and holding the central longitudinal portion of a vamp against the last back of the toe of the last, and means for fastening the vamp to the forepart of the last while so held.

34.In a machine of the kind described, automatic power-actuated means forengaging with a rubbing action a vamp and pressing said vamp la'stward and toeward back of the toe of the last while leaving the extreme toe end of the vamp without strain, and means for turning said vamp over the edge of the last.

In testimony' whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

, Witnesses:

M. J SPALDING,

GEO. H. MAXWELL.

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