US894990A

US894990A - Welt-guide for welt-sewing machines.

Info

Publication number: US894990A
Application number: US22661704A
Authority: US
Inventors: William Thompson
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1904-09-30
Filing date: 1904-09-30
Publication date: 1908-08-04
Anticipated expiration: 1925-08-04

Description

' PATBNTED AUG. 4, 1908.

-wwnbmson. I WELT 'BPOR WELT SEWING MACHINES. 1

APPLIOLTIOH FILED SEPT. 30, 1904.

[n vnloi:

44mm mom OFFICE.

, a i WILLIAM THOMPSON, OF BROCKTON, MASSA Q\ KSETTS.

WELT-GUIDE FOR WELT-SEWING MAC Specification of Letters Patent.

s. liiatented Aug. 4, 1908.

Application filed September so, 1904. Serial No. 226,61,

To all whom it may concern: Be it known that 1, WILLIAM THOMPSON, a citizen of the United States, residing at Brockton, in the county of Plymouth and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Welt-Guides for Welt-Sewing Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

In mv co-pending application Sen-No.

222,915; filed Sept. 1, 1904, I have disclosed an improved we t-guide for facilitating thesewing of welts in the manufacture of boots and shoes and my present invention is a further improvement for the same general purposes.

One of my main objects is to facilitate the sewing of a welt about the toe or other curved port-ion of the sole so as not only to relieve the stitches of the strain which has heretofore been brought upon them by the mechanism commonly in use, which has compelled the leather suddenl Y to take an unnatural position but my ob ect is also to cause the welt to assume more readily the desired position and to cause the fulling or puckering of the stitch receiving edge'of the leather to take place uniformly and gradually between and at the stitchesas the sewing proceeds.

. To this end I provide, in connection preferably with the improved welt-guide which constitutes the subject matter of my beforementioned application, a deflector or auxiliary guide piece for receiving the rear edge of the weltin such position as to control the edge of the welt and to cause the welt to assume the desired curvature gradually and uniformly and to shape itself automatically in the other particulars required as will presently be exp ained, said deflector taking the place of the usual welt-guide spring and constituting an edge controlling device for holding, shaping and directing the welt delivered to the sewing mechanism.

The constructional details and other advantages and the operation of my improved welt-guide will be pointed out more at length in the course of the following description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings in which I have shown one embodiment of my invention, the latter being more particularly defined in the appended claims.

In the drawings Figure 1 is a top plan view of my improved welt-guide. Fig. 2 is a sectional view thereof .taken on the line 2.2

Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a detail view in top plan showing the auxiliar \guide or edge controller. Fig. 4 is a iagrammatic view for the purpose of illustrating the principles of operation of my welt-guide as herein considered. Fig. 5 is a right hand side elevation of the device.

The main portion of the welt-guide proper may be of any kind desired, preferably comprising a top plate 0 extending from a retaining arm 0 and an under plate ct and extension sup )orting plate 0 all as set forth in further (letail in my aforesaid co'pending application.

In this class of devices the welt to passes through the welt-guiding passage between the top' plate 0' and bottom plate 0 for the urpose of having its stitch receiving edge w v urned up to be stitched to the edge a of the upper of a shoe whose toe is indicated at a Fig. 4. Heretofore a guide spring has been employed as shown for instance, at d in Patent No. 419,239 which has simply served to hold the welt up to the stitch receiving point and in proper position to have its lip 'turned up, the welt assuming the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 4, but as the welt is composed of more or less heavy and still leather which is hard to manipulate the result has been that considerable difficulty has been experienced in producing proper results because of the force required to compel the welt to assume the proper position, most of this comp'ulsiontaking lace after the welt has beenscwcd and is a out to re I ceive the outer sole.

To obviate as far as possible the difiicultics explained, I provide an edge controller in the form of a guide arm (1 extending obliquely within the welt receiving recess or guiding passage of the welt-guide and adjustable back and forth therein by any suitable mcans as by a stem (1 and set screw (1, said guide arm having a curved end d extending slightly forward of the delivery end or edge c of the welt-guide and at its other end being deflected forward and provided with a suitable bearing surface hereln shownas consisting of an anti-friction roller (1* mounted between retaining plates (1 which are curved at their opposite edges d for ermittin free movement of the welt. he controller arm (Z is curved or bowed backwardly as shown between its ends (1 ,11 in the plane of the welt see Figs. 3 and 4 and is also upwardly curved or bent transversely to 2. The end (I is curved or rounded forward at its outer surface for lpermitting the welt to move freely in either irection as it is some- .times desirable that it should move, and also preferably projects as shown for the purpose of giving a better, holding and directing en gagement with the welt opposite the stitch receiving point thereof. In other words, the rear edge of the welt is positively engaged or pushed edgewise forward at the opposite ends of the controller (I, and between said ends it is restrained or held back at its front edge by the welt guide, the bowed or curved middle portion of the controller arm (I, leaving the welt free to bethus bent widthwise.

In use the welt is fed between the plates 11 and thence through the weltuiding passage of the guide proper between t he upper plates 0 and the under plates 1:, c", the controller arm (I being adjusted forward accurately to bring the stitch receiving edge w of the welt into the upturning portion of the welt-guide recess at 0 and thereupon as the sewing proceeds the welt is gradually and evenly compressed longitudinally or puckered in at its sewed edge 20 about the curve next to the toe a of the shoe with a minimum tendency to bend away from the horizontal position.

which it is desired that it must subsequently maintain when sewed to the outer sole. This will be more readily understood by referrin to Fig. 4. Stitches having been passet through the welt edge to and the upper ed e a itwill be evident that, by having the welt 10 held flat and bent in a natural curve in the direction of its width between the 'roller d, and d wearing against the back edge of the welt and point 0 bearing against the front edge of the welt, the leather is permitted to pucker or gather in and shorten on its inner side next to the toe a so that when the welt arrives at the point where it is being sewed this fullness athers in naturally between the point 4 and tire point e and is retained more or less by each successive stitch as formed by the needle n at 5. Moreover the curved arm d, or equivalent means for controlling and holding the welt at its rear edge in such position as to curve it in the plane of its width as clearly shown in Fi 4 serves to materially shorten and shape the welt in the region adjacent its inner ed e. The welt, under the sewing action, wotild tend to lie down vertically edgewise around the toe, but the upturned shape or bend of the arm (I, as best shown in Fig. 2, cooperates with the widthwise puckering of tie welt to prevent or largely counteract this tendency of the welt to turn vertically or lie down vertically, and to cause said welt to lie more readily in the desired horizontal )lane for subset uently engaging the sole. lso a further advantage is that the sewing is facilitated, the work bein rendered certain and uniform. The upturned welt edge tends to maintain readily the proper position for the entrance of the needle in the stitch receivin groove it? being held or pressed forward firmly by the arm (1 at the point 6. The supporting plate 0" cooperates with the mechanism described to the same ends.

It will be understood that there is a complexit y of yielding, stretching and distorting in various directions aside from the princi al movements which I have set forth, and ali of which conduce .to the desired results and are effected by the means which I have set forth above.

My invention is capable of various modifi cations in the COllStl'llCilfifhll details of its embodiment and accordingly I wish it understood that certain of my claims are intended to be broader in scope than the siecific mechanism of the preferred embodiment herein.

Without undertaking to set forth all the advantages, functions and embodiments embraced in my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is g 1. In combination, a welt guide, a needle movable in a horizontal path in the direction of the width of the welt and parallel to the adjacent welt-guiding surface of the welt guide, said welt guide containing at one side of the path of said needle a welt-guiding passage to hold the welt edgewise to the plane of the sole of the shoe in position to be sewed at its inner edge to the outside of the upper, and means coo )erating with said welt-guiding passage to end the welt in the plane of its width toward the shoe, and to compress longitudinally said stitch-receiving inner ede welt which is next to the shoe, and controlling means cooperating with said welt-guidof t 1e welt forward and also rearward of the place where the stitch-receiving edge of the welt bears a ainst said weltuidin assa 'e a r: a b 9 ing passage to engage the opposite outer edge to permit said edge to assume a natural curve.

3. In combination, a welt guide, containing a welt-guiding passage to hold the welt edgewise to the shoe in position to be sewed to the shoe through the extreme inner edge of the welt next to the shoe,'a needle movable in a path parallel to said welt-guiding passage atthe forward end thereof t'ransversely through said inner edge of the welt and approximately parallel to the bottom of the shoe, and means cooperating with said welt-guiding passage to curve upwardly the welt transversely of its width in a gradual curve beginning approximately at the point receiving the I18E( 1e and extending rearwardly toward its unsewed end and also to bend the welt simultaneously in the plane of its width toward the shoe and to com n-ess longitudinally that portion of the stitchreceiving edge yet to be sewed and to and including the point pierced by the needle and receiving the stitches.

4. In combination, a needle, a welt-guide, containing at one side of the path of said needle means for embracing a welt constituting a welt-receiving passage, an edge-col troller extending within said passage to engage the outer edge of the welt, said edgecontroller having deflecting portions for engaging the welt beforethe latter enters said passage and also at the opposite side of the needle where the welt leaves said passage, said cont-roller being bent in a direction away from the welt between said deflecting portions, for permitting the welt to assume a natural curvature in the direction of its width.

5. In combination, a needle, a welt-guide, containing at one side of the path of said needle means for embracing a weltconstituting a weltaeceiving passage, an edge-com troller extending within said passage to engage the outer edge of the welt, said edge controller having deflecting portions forenga-ging the welt before the latter enters said passage and also at the opposite side of the needle where the welt leaves said passage,

said controller being bent in a direction away from the welt between said deflecting pora i a 's94,99o"

tions, for permitting-the welt to assume a natural curvature in the plane of its width,

and'also containing means for (lefiectW---- welt transversely to said plane.

6. A welt-guide, containing a welt-guiding pas age, and an edge controller mounted in the rear side of the welt guiding passage, consisting of an arm curved at itmldlepertion .A and having at its outer end a )rojecting antifriction roller for engaging t to rear edge of G0 the welt. I

7. A welt-guide, containing a welt-guiding pas age, and an edge controller mounted in the rear side of the welt guiding passage, consisting of an arnt curved at its middle )ortion and having its outer end extent ing forwardly and provided with 0p )osite ret aining plates for engaging the welt fiat-wise on its op osite sides; v

S. n combination, a needle, a welt-guide, containing at one side of the path of said needle means for embracing a welt and constituti-ng a welt-receiving passage, an edge controller extending within said passage to engage the outer edge of the welt, said passage having its guiding end 0 )posit-e said controller shaped to hold firmly the stitch-re- .ceiving edge in position for sewing to the shoe, said edge-controller having its end beyond the path of the needle toward the sewed portion projecting diagonally forward and curved toward the welt for engaging the edge of the. latter and holding the welt firmly against said guiding end of said passage in a direction oblique to the sewing movement.

9. A welt-guide for welt sewing machines, having an arm extending at the rear of its welt-receiving passage said arm projecting forwardly to engage the rear edge of the welt for bending theflatter in the direction of its width, said arm having opposite parallel retaining plates for embracing said welt. In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnes es.

\VILLIAM THOMPSON.

Witnesses:

F. AUsTIN TARR, M. A. Jones.