US894567A - Seam for sewed articles. - Google Patents

Description

No. 894,567. PATENTED JULY z8, 1908.

W. A11-BETTER.

SBAM POR SEWED AR'.FIGLES.`

APPLIUATION FILED DEO.4, 1907.

UNrrED STATES PATENT oEEIoE.

WOLF ARBETTER, OF CHELSEA, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO ARBETTER FELLING MACHINE COMIE'ANY,` OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS. A'GORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM Fon sEwEDAnTIcLEs.

Application filed December L 1907. Serial No. 405,052.

T o all whom it 'may concer/n: j l

Be it known that I, WOLF ARBETTER,'.a, citizen of theUnited States, residing at Chelsea, in the county yof Sufolk 'and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Scams for Sewed Articles, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like letters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to a seam for sewed l articles designed to be made by machine,

and more particularly for use in what is known as addinn work wherein two or over considerable surfaces and hence a seami.

more layers 'of superimposed fabric 'are united by blind stitches.

Padding .work is required to a large extent in the manufacture of mensv-and womens garments. It is desirableto securea wide seam thatshall bind two'or more layers of fabric together firmly without showing on the exposed surface .of the garment. The rows of stitchingare made'close together which can be made rapidly-is desirable.

The nature of the seam will appear more fully from the accompanying description andl drawings and will be particularly pointed out in the claims." I l The drawingsillustrate preferred 'forms of the seam both as app'liedftopadding and similar work and as applied to felling.

Figure 11 is a view in perspectlve showing. the preferred form yof seam; Fig. 2 is a detail view in cross-section of a portion of the seam; Fig. 3 is a view in perspective'of the ypreferred form of seam appliedto'felling.-

The seam herein illustratedisone designed to be made by machine, comprising two needles each carrying a thread and a single. threadl carrying looper 'cooperating alternately with the needles to interlock its thread with the threads offv` the'needles. Since the subject matter of thisinvention resides' in the seam itselfand not in the machine it is unnecessary here to describe the particular instrumentalities employed. .For a better understanding of the-nature of the seam, yhowever, it" may be stated thatl the machine for makingl the seam comprises a vertically yielding work-support uponwhich the work isl laid; a presser-foot holding the work against the work-'support andprovided with a transverse opening therein'y a vertically reciprocating bender mounted in and independently of 1 Specification of Letters Patent.

vmay' be desired.

Patented July. 2s, 190s.

the work-support and o erated to projectthe' material at each stitc 'upward inral bend;

through the opening in the presser-footiaff" stitch-frame mounted.- above the work-sup port; two curved needles oscillate d ab oi itv horizontal axes to pass' into and out `ofthe material projected through the presser-foot bythe bender, and operated in-substantially parallel paths and in alternation'by suitable mechanism, the Asaid mechanism being arranged to secure a dwell in the operationof the two needles at the time thepoint lof one needle has withdrawn from the material and the point of the other needlehas not yet entered the material in order that the feed of the material. may take place 'during this dwell; athread-carrying looper, suchas a revolving hook and contained mounted in the stitch-frame and making-two complete rotations to each -reciprocatlcn of one of theneedles whereby its hook coperates at each revolution alternately with one or the other of the needles. A suitable feed mechanism, take-up, and other cooperating devices are of course provided.

One form of the seam of this invention `may also be'made by a machine similar to 'that described wherein the needles move'in paths slightly conver 'ng toward the looper so that the embedde stitches will converge slightly toward each other andthe hook of the looper may more readily coperate with l both needles.

Such a machine, as above described, enables the seam to be made with great rapidity andA produces a 'seam structure of desired width and bindin effect.

When the seam is to e used for felling, for

which it is adapted' although not preferred, guiding-devices must be provided for guiding` the edge, inturned or plain, of the superimposed la er or layers, and the needle penetatingt e superimposed layer or layers may be set to penetrate or not the bottom layer as The preferred form of seam'illustrated in two layers of fabricyA and B. One needle thread is indicated at D and lies on the'up er face of the fabric in a continuous line, an 'is ,105@

formed at intervals into loops d which pass down through the upper layer and. partially `through the bottom layer. The other-nee-v dle thread; i's indicated at E andlies on the :f

upper face of the fabric in a. continuous line,`

parallel to the thread D, and is similarly formed at intervals into loops e, which pass v down through' the up er layer and partially through the bottomayer.

seam with the loops e of the threadvE.

The'third or looper thread F extends in a zig-za course from one side of the seam to the ot er, and is interlocked valternately with the loops d and e. The interlocked loops of the thread F and the threadD and. the interl locked loops of the thread F and the thread r scribed wherein the needles operate in paralvlel aths, it will be seen that t e loops d and e wil lie to one side or the other of the threads D, E, accordin as 'the point of the needle happens to pus the threads D, E, to' one side or the other'.V lTo insure the symmetrical character of the seam and prevent the oints of the needles from striking the threads E, the embedded stitches may be arranged slightly converging,ias indicated at e', d. This t pe of seam may alsor be employed for fel ing work Where the edge of a superim osed layer or layers of material are attache to abase layer. When so used one of the needle threads and shuttle thread ap pear-on the top of the fabric, bt the second needle thread is laid close alongside' of the edge of the up er layer and ispractically concealed there y in the completed seam.

The felling seam -is illustrated in Fig. 3

. wherein'B represents a main layer of fabric andA a superim osed layer, theiedge e of which is to be-fe led to .the base layer B.

The seam is`constructed exactly as described,y

save that one thread D lies alonguthe top of the upper layer, while the other' t ead E lies on the top of the main or base layer and close up to the edge e, while the third or looper thread F extends over the edge e.

A machine suitable for producing the seam made the subject of this patent is madethe subject of my application Serial No. 436,224,1ed June 2d, 1908.

Having described myl invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is: t y

1. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, one or more superimosed la ers of fabric, a thread lying on the ace of tliefabric and presenting at intervals loo s embedded in the layers of fabric, a secon( thread lying parallel with the first thread and presenting at intervalsl alternating with those of the first thread loops embedded'in the layers of fabric, and a third thread lying on the faceof the fabric presenting loops interlocked alterl The loops d'of the thread D alternate longitudinally of the on the face of the fabric nately with the loopsof said first and second threads, theV interlocked loops in each case forming blind stitches or stitches entering and emerging at the face of the fabric.

2. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, one or more superimosed layers of fabric, a thread lying on the faceA of the fabric and presenting at intervals loo s embeddedin the layers of fabric, a seeon thread lying on the face of the fabric parallel with the first thread and presentin f at intervals alternating with those of the rst thread loops embedded in'the layers of fabric, and a third thread lying on the face of the fabric resenting loops interlocked alternately with) the loops of said first and second threads, the interlocked loops in each case forming blind stitches or stitches enterin and emerging at the face'of the fabric, sai

blind stitches lying substantially in the direction of the seam.

3. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, onev or more superimposed layers of fabric, a thread lying on the ace of the fabric an'd presenting at intervals loo s embedded in the layers of fabric, a sec'- fabricv presenting loops interlocked alternately with the loops of said first. and second threads, the interlocked loops in each'tcase forming blind stitches or stitches enterimr and emerging at the face of the fabric, sai( blind stitches lying substantially in the direction rof the seam and converging slightly.

4. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer -of fabric, one or morel su erimposedlayers of fabric presenting an e( ge on the main layer, a thread lying on the face of the superimposed layer and presenting at intervals loops embedded in the fabric, a second thread lyingon the face of the main layer of fabric close to the edge of the superim' osed layer and parallel with the first threa and presenting at intervals alternating with those of the first thread loo s embedded in the fabric, and a third threa lying on the face of the superimposed layer and extending over the edge thereof and presenting loops interlocked alternately with the loo s of said first and second threads, the inter ocked loo s in each case forming blind stitches or stitc ies entering and emerging at the face of the fabric.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification', in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

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