US802267A

US802267A - Article of jewelry.

Info

Publication number: US802267A
Application number: US22807504A
Authority: US
Inventors: Jean Baptiste Joseph Chaumet
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1904-10-11
Filing date: 1904-10-11
Publication date: 1905-10-17
Anticipated expiration: 1922-10-17

Description

PATENTED OUT. 17, 1905.

mw-rmmm 64mm (L Mm d ymw v @WMW,

w mmm I. B. I CHAUMET. ARTICLE OF JEWELRY.

APPLICATION FILED 0CT.11.1904.

W RNE' H cc. PUOYOMTNDGFMFLEHS, wmumavon. D c

rrrrrrn s'r'irs JEAN BAPTISTE J OSEPH UHAUMET, ()F PARIS, FRANCE.

ARTICLE OF JEWELRY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 17, 1905.

Application filed October 11. 1904 Serial No. 228,075.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JEAN BAPTISTE J0- snPn CHAUMET, jeweler, a citizen of the Republic of France, residing at Paris, in the Republic of France, (whose full postal ad dress is 62 line de Richelieu, Paris, aforesaid,) have invented a certain new and useful Improved Article of Jewelry, of which the following is a specification.

This invention consists in an arrangement for setting gems with a View to the production of all kinds of jewelry, such as rings, bracelets, brooches, coronets, diadems, and the like. For this setting a certain number of suitably prepared or cut gems are taken and firmly fixed by means of a metal framework. The preparation of the gems and the arrangement of this framework are such that the jewelry when finished has the appearance of being formed almost entirely of gems or stones, the metallic frame being incased in the latter.

In order that the invention may be understood, reference will now be made to the ac companying drawings, in which Figure l is a front view of this method of setting; Fig. 2, a transverse section on the line :0 a; of Fig. 1 Fig. 3, a view in perspective of one of the stones or gems before being set Fig. 4, a View also in perspective of the metallic framework which retains this gem when its setting or mounting is completed; Fig. 5, a front view, on an enlarged scale, of a ring produced by the means hereinbefore specified; Fig. 6, a corresponding horizontal projection; Fig. 7, a vertical section on the line a I) c of Fig. 6; Fig. 8, a horizontal section on. the line at c of Fig. 7. Figs. 9 and 10 show methods of fastening the gems utilizing the process of manufacture shown in detail in the foregoing figures.

Each gem or stone A. intended to be set by this improved process has its internal face 1 and its external face 2 ground and polished in the usual manner. Any desired decoration may be imparted by cutting or in any other way.

Grooves

3, 4, 5, and 6 are formed in its four sides, in which grooves the metallie framework is intended to fit in the manner hereinafter explained. This extremely light metal frainework is formed of two wires 7 and 8 of suitable section and of suitably-selected metal intended to lodge entirely in the upper grooves 3 and lower grooves 4 of the gems, together with small bars 9, also variable in section and size forming to some extent cross-pieces between the two wires 7 and 8, to which they are soldered, each half lodging, respectively, in the lateral grooves 5 and 6 of the two adjacent gems.

In order to set the gems, the wires 7 and 8 are engaged in the upper groove 3 and lower groove 4 of a gem A, and then on each side of this latter in its lateral grooves 5 and.6 small bars 9 are arranged, the extremities of which are then soldered on the said wires 7 and 8. It must be noted that if these latter can be entirely located in the

grooves

3 and 4 such is not the case with the small cross-bars 9, which must project to half their thickness on the side of the gem, so as to be able to penetrate into the corresponding groove in the adjacent gem with a view to assist in fixing it. The first gem. being set, a second one is engaged between the wires 7 and 8 in the manner hereinbefore stated. The lateral groove 5 of the gem covers the projecting half of the last cross-bar 9 already fixed, and then a fresh. bar 9 is placed in. its groove 6 on the opposite side. After having soldered this bar 9 on the wires 7 and 8 the second gem is set. A third gem is then put in position in an identical manner, then a fourth, &c.

Figs. 3 and 4 show clearly in what manner each gem or stone is retained in place when the setting is completed. In order to show the framework in Fig. 4, it is of course supposed that the gem which was there inclosed or set has been broken away.

When several gems are uxtaposed and set in the manner described, a jewel or part of a jewel is obtained showing, at least in front, no metal part, the framework almost disappearing in the various recesses provided for receiving it. In order to complete the effect, a suitable cover may be provided for the wires 7 and 8 which may approach the edge of the

grooves

3 and 4.

A row of gems set in the manner hereinbefore described is capable of bein used for making all kinds of jewelry, braceIets, rings, coronets, brooches, and the like.

Figs. 5 and 8 show, as an example, the application of this improved method of setting to a ring. In this case the gems A are arranged between the wires 7 and 8 in the form of circles. The cross-bars 9 are always placed in the manner hereinbefore indicated.

In order to put the last gem in place, either the wires 7 and 8 may be cut and then soldered when they are located in the

grooves

3 and 4 or they may be deformed in order to facilitate the admission of the gem, as may be desired.

If the setting arrangement be applied to a collar or bracelet, the object may be made with a hinge arranged at each of the crossbars 9, so as to permit the opening of the jewel.

It is evident that by a judicious choice of the stones or gems adapted to be utilized for making this or that jewel, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, topazes, sapphires, or the like, by cutting or decorating their visible faces, such gems being further adapted to be employed alone or in combination one with another, and by this means jewelry of very varied and original appearance is obtained.

In the foregoing specification it is assumed that these jewels are always formed of a single row of juxtaposed gems; but it is evident that while still employing the same method jewels may be produced having several rows of gems, and Figs. 9 and 10 show diagrammatically in external view and sec tion two and three rows of gems combined and set in the manner hereinbefore described. In order to make these multiple bands, the operation is performed in successive rows, but always in the manner explained. It

must be pointed out that the intermediate wires 10 and 11 must be of suitable section to penetrate partly into the grooves of one row of gems and partly into the grooves of the other row.

Of course the forms and proportions indicated in the drawings either of the gems or the metallic frame are not limited to those stated. They may be varied at will according to circumstances and requirements and also according to the nature of the various materials utilized. The method hereinbefore described although particularly applicable to the manufacture of bands of juxtaposed stones might also be utilized for setting isolated gems.

Having now particularly described the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is 1. The herein-described article of jewelry, comprising a number of juxtaposed stones with grooves in their edges and a wire frame, the wires being embedded and hidden in the grooves.

2. The herein-described article of jewelry, comprising a number of rectangular juxtaposed stones with grooves in the edges of each, parallel wires passing through certain of such grooves, and connecting-wires passing through grooves at right angles thereto, the wires being hidden by said grooves to produce surfaces similar on the front and back of the article.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JEAN BAP'llS'lll JOSEPH CHAUMET.

Vitnesses ANTOUIN MOUTEILHET, ARCHIBALD R. BAKER.