US744475A - Garment-drafting rule. - Google Patents

Description

No. 744,475. PATENTED Nov. v17, `1903-.`

I J..P.BU0KLEY.' l GARMENT DRAPTING RULE.

APPLICATION FILED MAB. 6, 1903.

NO MODEL.

UNITED STATES Patented November 17, 1903.

PATENT OEEIcE.

GARMENT-DRAFTING RULE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 744,475, dated November 17, 1903.

Applicant nea March e, 190s. seria No. 146.547. (No model.)

To all whom t may concern:

Beit known that I, JOHN P. BUCKLEY, a citi-v zen of the United States, residing at Washington, in the District of Columbia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Garment-Drafting Rules, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to a garment-cutting scale, rule, or chart, and pertains particuscales and drafting-lines properly portioned and arranged to coact with each other and with the special shape of the rule in drafting childrens and ladies garments.

The object, further, of my invention is to construct a drafting-plate by which a perfect symmetry and maximum amount of beauty. can be given to the various curves forming the outlines of the dierent portion of a draftingsheet, to reduce to a minimum the amount of time consumed in applying the plate to the sheet or surface on which the drafting is being executed, and to present further and 'other advantages, to be hereinafter more speciiically referred to.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this application, Figure 1 is a plan view of one side of the plate or rule. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the other side of the plate or rule. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the center back, side body, and under arm of a dresswaist drawn in accordance with my invention. Fig. l is a like View of the front body produced by using my invention.

The same letters and numeral references denote the same parts throughout the several views of the drawings.

In carrying out the invention the rule or plate may beconstructed of any suitable material-such as pasteboard, celluloid, vulcanized rubber, wood, aluminium, and the likesaid rule being essentially of the shape or configuration shown in the drawings and hereinafter described, and particularly pointed out in the claims for the purpose of accurately marking out or drafting the various parts of ladies and childrens garments.

The rule comprises an arm or stem A, terminating at one end in a foot B and at the other end in a curved head C. One ed'ge of the rule or plate has a compound curve 1, reaching Vfrom the head to the foot throughout the stem A. At the foot the curve 1 forms an angle or point 2 with the toe of the foot.v The other edge 3 of the stem is concaved throughout its length and terminates at the head Cin a notch 4, so as to form, with the edge of the head, a point 5. The edges of the stem are of such curvature that the stem is made to taper or diminish in Width from the head to the foot, where the curves diverge, as clearly shown in the drawings. The head is provided, preferably, with an arcshaped or semicircular view-slot 6 for the purpose of adjustingthe lower scale with the scale above, both acting together in line with VVdrafted line A. This movement, in conjunction with placing point 5 to drafted line B, assures the proper size and curvature of the neck. Under the foregoing description the shape of the rule is defined, which is highly essential when combined with the several scales thereon hereinafter to be described.

Referring to the side of the rule or plate shown in Fig. 1, the back and front shoulderlines F and G, respectively, radiate from point I-I, and from the point H along the compound curved edge is a back and front shoulder-scale j. Next in order is the arm-scye scale K, which starts from point 2 of the foot B, used principally in forming the arm-scyes of the back, side body and under arm-pieces, as shown in Fig. 3. The parallel inclined lines O are guide-lines for dot S of back piece, (seen in Fig. 3,) which ismade after drawing the shoulder-line S. The depth of the arm- -scye is then determnedby the scale K, the

dot 8 only serving to guide the course of the line E. The rule- points 2, 6, 8, 4, 3,' 5, and 1 are employed to form the different curves of the garment and will be properly treated or taken up in forming as a whole. The front arm-scye scale P Pr forms a-partfofthe head C, the slot G permitting one to adjust the lower scale P on line A, 'throughl which the said line is seen. In identifying any given number of the scale with drafted line A the rule-point l must always rest on drafted line B in order to draw the desired neck-curve.

ICO

It Will be seen that the diierent points are observed, the two numbers of same denomination on line A and point 1 hearing on line B. Reviewing the other side of rule or Fig. 2, there is a bust guide-line D on foot B, and perpendicular to said bust guide-line is a dash B', which acts in conjunction with the combination coacting scale S and S'. It Will be seen that in drawing the back neck-curve those distinct rule-points are likewise employed, the dash B' serving as a pivot, as in case of rule-point 1 in front neck. The numbers, however, in this case rest on drafted line B. The bust-scale T acts in conjunction with bust guide-line D of foot B, which is placed on drafted line B at dot 4, Fig. 4, after which the bust-scale is used to place the dart-points according to the measure taken. The star, which is on both sides of the rule at foot B, is placed in turn on dots 9, 10, 11, and 12 as each of the dart-lines are formed. The under-arm scale U has its beginning at rule-line A of foot B and is for the purpose of determining the length of the under arm. Rule-points 5, l2, 13, 10, 7, 8, and 6 are conveniently placed to draw the dierent lines of the garment, which will be taken up later in forming the parts of the garment. The arm-scye of the front piece is formed by the head C, the ordinary arm-scye is drawn by placing rule-point 10 on drafted line H in Fig. 4, and the edges of the rule on dot 8 and 6. Larger arm-seyes may be made by placing rule-points 12 and 7 on drafted line H. The curve is drawn from dot 6 to rule-point 13, after which rule-point 7 is moved to iinish of curve, which curve is then continued to the shoulder or dot 8, as shown.

The Waist-measure V is conveniently placed near that part of the rule, so (under point 5) as to be easily read Without necessarily disturbing the rule or having to back same up independently of the rule.

I will now describe how the various parts of the garment may be drawn which will bring out the essential feature of the rule as described. In every case the right-angle lines A and B are drawn, after which for front shown in Fig. 4: Place front neckscale on line A and point 2 on line B; draw curve neck N; measure down line B one-half of the arm-scye measure and place dot 3; measure down same line three-fourths of arm-scye measure and place dot 4; place point of square on dot 3 and draw line G straight out; place dot 6 for bust-measure; measure down from dot 2 on line B the length of front and place dot 5; measure down from dot 6 and give length of under arm; place dot 7; place bust-line on dot 4 and place top of darts; place number 5 on dot 5 and edge of rule on dot 7 and draw Waistline W; (see Table V for placing dots 9, 10, 11;) place star on 9, l0, 1l, and 12, and draw dart-lines to top of darts; measure out from dot 7 one and one-half inches; place dot 13; measure three-fourths of an inch up from dot 13; place dot 14; draft line W from dot 14; place letter A on dot 14 and edge of rule on dot 6; draw line F length of under arm; place points Y12 and 7 on line H and edge of rule on dot G and draw lower part of armscye to point 13; place point 7 on finish of curve and edge ou dot 8; draw arm-scye to dot 8.

The center-back, as shown in Fig. 3, isV

drawn by drafting line A and B; place dash B on line A and even up neck-number on line B; draw curve N; measure four inches down from line A on line B and place dot 3; measure down same line from dot 2 and give length of back; place dot 4; draft line W straight out from dot 4; place dot 5 on line W one and one-half inches from dot 4; place dot 6; even dash-line Back S77. on line A at neck-curve and draw line S the length of shoulder required; place dot 8 beneath shoulder-measure; place point of curve on point of shoulder and draft arm-scye E to dot 8 or to the size as indicated on rule; place igu re 8 on dot 8 and draw curve F to dot 6. The side "body is then drawn bydrawing line 0 straight out from dot 8; measure two inches out from dot 8 and place dot 8 of side body, and threefourths of an inch beyond place dot 6; measure two inches out from dot 6 on waist-line and place dot 4; place ligure 8 on dot 8; draw curve F to dot 4; place figure 5 on dot 5 and draw line K to dot 6; measure one and one-half inches down this line and place dot 7; place point of rule on dot 8 and draw line E to dot 7. Next to follow is the under arm, by measuring three inches out from dot 5 of side body and place dot 4; measure up line K of side body from dot 5 to dot 7 and give same measurement up from dot 4 of under arm and place dot 3; measure one and one-quarter inches out from dot 3 and place dot 6. At the same time give Width of under arm from dot 3 and place dot 7; place number 6 on dot 6 and draw line L to dot 4; measure up from dot 5 to dot 7 and give length of under arm; place point 3 on length of under arm and draw line R.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A drafting plate or rule comprising a head, having a view-slot, and provided with a front neck-scale, a foot having radial shoulder-lines, a bust guideline and scale, and a dash-line perpendicular to the bust-line; and a stem connecting the head and foot and having a concaved edge and a compound curved edge, said edges having back neck-scales, bust-scales, and arm-scye scales,substantially as shown and described.

2. A drafting-plate comprising a stem, a foot forming one terminal of the stem,a curved head forming the other terminal of the stem, a notch intersecting one edge of the stem and one edge of the head, and a point formed by the notch and the said head edge.

3. A drafting-plate comprising a concavo- IOO IIO

'744,475 i a w 3 convexed stem, a curved foot forming one terminal of the stem, a head forming the other terminal of the stem and having a curved edge extending from one edge of the stem and 5 terminating in a projection pointing toward the other edge of the stem.

4. A drafting-rule comprising a stern terminating in a curved head having a point and in a foot having a point, a bust guide-line on lo one side of the foot, a dash-line perpendicular to the bust guide-line, radial shoulderlines, on the other side of one foot, inclined parallel lines on the saine side of the stem as said foot-lines and reaching from one to the other edge of the stem, and a series of scales I5 arranged With respect to the rule on cach side of the head, stem and foot, substantially asf set forth.

In Witness whereof I hereunto set my hand in the presence of two witnesses. Y

JOHN P. BUCKLEY. Witnesses:y

C. E. FEISTER, ETHEL C. LEE.

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