US270933A - Instrument for drafting patterns - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

M. B. CHANDLER, INSTRUMENT PoR DRAPTTNG PATTERNS. VNo. 270,933.

Patented Jan.23, 1883.

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. UNITED STATES PATENT SOEEICE.

MARY B. CHANDLER, OF CONCORD, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

INSTRUMENT FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 270,933, dated January 23, 1883,

Application filed September 12,v 188:2.

To all whom it may ccwcern:

Beit known that I, MARY B. CHANDLER, a

resident of Concord, in the county of Merri mack and State ot' New Hampshire, have invented certain new, useful, and Improved In struments for Drafting Patterns andv I hereby declare the following to be a full and clear de scription thereof.

The object of my invention is to furnish the means whereby patterns may be produced for cutting out garments from measurements, (assumin g the measurements to be correct,) which f. is at once adapted to either children or adults without trying on or itting,and which is also as simple as it is eEectual.

My improved system is composed of but two pieces-viz., a swiveled combination-square and a curved pattern, the latter of which may be made of wood, metal, rubber, or any other.

suitable material, the form of which is very similar to the pattern ordinarily used by dressmakers and termed arm-size.77

My improved system will be clearly under, stood by reference to the accompanying drawings, of which Figure l represents a shield or curved pattern having one scale thereon divided by lines marked from l to 1S, the figured lines being subdivided by shorterlines, which have no figures attached, said shorter lines being placed at equal distances between the figured lines, and also showin g curved slots,which' I use for different sizes of armholes. Fig. 2 shows one side of the swiveled combination rule or square as it appears when closed. Fig. 3' shows the opposite side of the swiveled combination rule or square, showing in dotted lines the arm or smallerhalfopened and swung around to a point nearly at a left angle with the large part of the rule.` e

The shield or piece A is cut out in such shape or form as that every curved lineserves some purpose in drafting patterns byI my improved system, and it may be provided with curved slots a ain and through its larger end, and conforming more or less in curvature to the line or edge a', said curved slots a c and outer edge, a', being required for drafting armholes.

The curved line forming the edge c2 is used in draftingthe quarter-body,77 while thecurved line forming the edge a3 is used in drafting the (No model.)

neck of garments. The scale on curve a3 is so graduated that the exact distance between l and 2, 2 and 3, and so on,will be onehalt`inch,

so that the total length ot' the scale from 1 to 18 is but nine inches, this scale beingfound of great advantage in obtaining the size of neck, and far preferable to the standard inch-scale. There should be a small notch, a4, in the edge a c2 at or near the point indicated in Fig. l, in order that the dress-maker may be guided in sewing sleeves into garments.

The combination rule or square is made in two parts, B B', said parts being united by a hinge, b, the long part B having thereon two scales divided into inches and fractions of inches, one scale on each side of rule. The parts B B of the rule, to which the hinge b is riveted, are cut olf on an angle of forty-tive degrees, in order to permit the rule to form a square when opened as far as it will go.

There should be a mark, b', upon the part B', struck on an angle of about sixty degrees,

commencing at center of hinge b and terminatsaid mark b is placed at a left angle with the part B, as shown in Fig. 3, by moving part B by means of hinge b down far enough to square the mark b with part B. l

The curved end b2 of piece B is of greatadvantage in drafting the darts ot' adress-waist, and is used when the rule or square displays the side which is shown in Fig. 3, the side which is shown in Fig. 2 being the side which comes in contact with the pattern while drafting the darts. g

There may be a continuation of the curved end of the piece B by bevelin g one side of the piece B, as shown in Fig. 2. The beveled side being placed down when drafting the darts, it will become necessary to incline the top of pencil out and away from the rule, which will cause the lead to follow the beveled edge of piece B.

The marks lettered B and D (shown on the side of square exposed to view in Fig. 2) are used in determining various measurements for back of waist and for darts, and I have not found them of use on the other side. v

There lwill be a short scale on piece B', as

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shown inA Fig. 2, divided into fifteen equalv parts, and figured consecutively from 18 to 43, inclusive, which will be marked back waist.77

0n opposite side of square, as shown in Fig. 3, are two short scales, the one placed upon piece B being divided into twenty equal parts, and ligured upon every other line consecutively from 15 to 35, inclusive, and marked front neck.7

The scale on piece B', being divided into eleven equal parts, and figured consecutively from 17 to 37, inclusive, is marked back neck.

The inside of square B B is used to obtain the, outlines i'or the back of waist, while the outside is used to draft the front of waist and the curved end ot' B to draft darts, the piece 18, said curved edge a a? being separated from edge a3 by straight edges yy, all designed and arranged in a manner best calculated to pro-v duce the results hereinbefore described, iu conf nection with the perforationsjorfcurved slots a a, forming part of arm-size pattern, as specied.

2. In the pieceIA, the combination of patterns comprising several sizes of armholes of 35 rule B having a radial line, b,cut diagonally across it from a point directly in the center ot' the hinge b, the other end of which terminates in a 4curved line, (shown at 112,) provided with letters and scales divided by tigures, as hereinbefore specified and described, and for the purposes set forth.

MARY B. CHANDLER.

Witnesses:

J. B. THURs'roN, L. D. STEVENS.

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