US742400A - Process of manufacturing collars. - Google Patents

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N0 MODEL PATENTED OCT. 27, 1903.

G. J. DO-RMANDY.

PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING COLLARS. APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 4, 190a.

2 sums-sum 1.

No. 742,400. Y'PATENTED 001221903. G.'J. DORMANDY. PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING GOLLARSi APPLIUATION FILED SEPT. 4, 1903.

N0 MODEL. 2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

latented October 27, 1903.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GARRY J. DORMANDY, OF TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHIRT AND COLLAR COMPANY, OF TROY, NEW YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING COLLAR S.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 742,400, dated October 27, 1903. Application filed September 4, 1903. Serial No. 171,914. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, GARRY J. DORMANDY, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Troy, in the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Processes of Manufacturing Collars, Oufis, or Analogous Articles, of which the following is a specification, accompanied by drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in the art or process of manufacturing collars, cuffs, or analogous articles; and the objects of the invention are to enable the blanks to be more readily folded, with greater smoothness.

Further objects of the invention will hereinafter appear; and to these ends the invention consists of the improvement in the art or process of manufacturing collars, cuffs, or

analogous articles, substantially as hereinafter fully described and claimed in this specification and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side view of the stiff outer ply of a collar cut away at the marginal portions. Fig. 2 is a side View of the thin inner ply. Figs. 3 and 4 are views of the stiffening-pieces utilized in the improved process. Fig. 5 is a side View of a collar looking at the outside before folding. Fig. 6 is a view looking at the inside before folding, with the stifieningpieces suitably secured to the marginal portions. Fig. 7 is a view of the collar looking at the outside after folding. Fig. 8 is an inside view of the collar after folding, with one of the stiffening-pieces removed.

This invention is illustrated in connection with the art or process of manufacturing collars, although it may be applied to cufis or analogous articles. The collar illustrated comprises a plurality of plies of material, some of which are cut away at marginal por tions to reduce the thickness or stiffness of the article thereat for the buttonholes. The collar illustrated is what is termed a nosepoint collar, in which it is essential that the corners of the lining should be cut out to make a flexible point for the buttonhole.

This invention is not only applicable to nose-point collars, but it is likewise adapted to cuffs or to any other shapes in which it is desired to cut out a thinner part for the buttonhole or other'purposes or in which it is desired to permit collars to be folded more readily at that point, as would be the case with certain wing-collars and other well-known forms.

In collars or other analogous articles in which a portion of the lining is out out to make a flexible point for the buttonhole great difficulty has been experienced in attempting to turn these collars on the machine because the upper part is thick and the lower part is thin, so that very inferior work in turning is apt to be obtained. This improved process obviates the difficulty in turning, as will hereinafter appear.

In the drawings the stiff outer ply or lining A is cut away, as shown, at the marginal portions B at the ends, while the thin inner ply O is provided with the nose-points D.

The collar of the character described has been shown in order to illustrate the carrying out of the improved process. \Vhen two plies are laid one upon the other, as in Fig. 5, it will be seen that the nose-points are formed of one thin ply.

According to this process temporary stiffening-pieces E are removably applied to the marginal portions of the blanks before infolding the edges of the blanks. The stiffening-pieces E may be pasted to the blank, or they may be simply laid thereon in being folded. By applying the extra piece or stiffening-piece E on the nose of the blank the w thin portion is compensated for, and without the extra piece it is exceedingly difficult to fold the blanks, because the machine cannot be adjusted to fold both the thick and thin portions, and in pressing the blank the nose portion, which needs to be pressed very thoroughly, will naturally not receive the full pressure, because the thicker part of the blank will prevent the infolders from being brought down with sufficient pressure upon the thin portion. By utilizing the extra stiffening-pieces E these difficulties are remedied.

- Without the stiffening-pieces one difficulty that has been experienced is that it is almost impossible to obtain the proper folding of the material around the die on the thinner part, because the thicker portion being so near to the nose will prevent one ply of the material at the nose from being brought up closely around the edge of the templet, and consequently the folding at the thin portion is apt to be in plaits and not smooth and sharply defined.

According to this improved process of manufacture the folding is smooth and even and does not fall in plaits and is sharply defined.

Fig. 7 shows the outside of the blank after having been folded with the extra stiffening pieces in position, while Fig. 8 is an inside view of the folded blank with one of the stiffening-pieces removed. After the blank has been folded the stiffening-pieces are removed, leaving the folds smooth and sharply defined.

In carrying out the process the blanks are preferably heated before or simultaneously with the pressing. It is to be understood that the application of the extra stiffeningpieces E may be either to the inside or outside of the blank.

Obviously this invention may be applied to different articles and may he carried out in different ways, and

Therefore, without enumerating equivalents, I claim, and desire to obtain by Letters Patent, the following:

1. The improvement in the art or process of manufacturing collars, cuffs, or analogous articles comprising a plurality of plies of material, some of which are cut away at marginal portions to reduce the thickness or stiffness of the article thereat, which consists in removably applying a temporary stifieningpiece to such portions of the blanks before infolding the edges of the blanks, and then' infolding and pressing down the folds of the blanks with the said stiffening-piece to produce a sharp fold therein, for substantially the purposes set forth.

2. The improvement in the art or process of manufacturing collars, cuffs, or analogous articles comprising a plurality of plies of material, some of which are cut away at marginal portions to reduce the thickness or stiffness of the article thereat, which consists in removably applying a temporary stiffeningpiece to such portions of the blanks before infolding the edges of the blanks, and then infolding, heating, and pressing down the folds of the blanks with the said stifleningpiece to produce a sharp fold therein, for substantially the purposes set forth.

3. The improvement in the art or process of manufacturing collars, cuffs, or analogous articles comprising a plurality of plies of material, some of which are cut away at marginal portions to reduce the thickness or stiffness of the article thereat, which consists in removably applying a temporary stiffening- .piece to the interior marginal portions of the blanks before infolding the edges of the blanks with the said stiffening-piece to'produce a sharp fold therein, for substantially the purposes set forth.

4. The improvement in the art or process of manufacturing collars, cuffs, or analogous articles comprising a plurality of plies of ma-.

terial, some of which are cut away at marginal portions to reduce the thickness or stiffness of the article thereat, which consists in removably applying a temporary stiffeningpiece to such portions of the blanks before infolding the edges of the blanks, and then infolding and pressing down the folds of the blanks with the said stiffening-piece to produce a sharp fold therein, and finally removing the stiffening-piece, for substantially the purposes set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GARRY J. DORMANDY. Witnesses:

CHAS. A. PINE, WM. S. GREER.

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