US662176A - Machine for rounding hat-brims. - Google Patents

Description

No. 662,176. Patented Nav. 2o, |900.-

J. STEWART,l m. MACHINE FUR RUUNDING HAT BRIMS.

(Application led Oct. 19, 1896.)

2 Sheets-Sheet I.

/ INVENTOR:

No. 662,|76. Patented Nov. 20, |900.

.1. STEWART, 1n.

MACHINE FR ROUNDING HAT BRIMS.

(Application led Oct. 19, 1896.)

(No Model.) f2 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

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` ATRNT MACHINE FOR ROUNDING HATBFIIIMS;

srncrnlcA'ron'rorming part of Letters Patent No. 662,176, dated Novembef 2o, 1960. Application filed Ofctoher 19, 1896. Serial No. 609,364. (No modeLl To @all whom, t may concern.-

Be it known that l, JAMES STEWART, Jr., a citizen of the United States, residing at Yonkers, in the county of Westchester and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for Rounding Hat-Brims, of which the following is a specification.

I am aware that heretofore various forms of machines have been proposed for rounding hatbrims; but so far as I know they have not been sufficiently practical in operation and satisfactory in results, and at the present time hat-brims are rounded by skilled operators using cutting-shears. In thus rounding hatbrims the relative perfection of the operation entirely depends upon the special skill and care of' the operator, and the output of a single hat-rounderis necessarily small. In practice also the rounded hat-brims will vary often to a considerable extent, due to the individual care, skill, or personal characteristics of the hat-rounder. Entirely satisfactory uniformity has not been generally obtainable, and there is always danger of the hats being spoiled by carelessness on the part of the rounder. The purpose of my invention is to provide a machine by which hat-bruns may be accurately rounded without the employment of skilled hat-rounders and by which the output of rounded hats may be largely increased-that is to say, the machine may be operated by relatively unskilled labor and will be capable of turning out a relatively7 large number of accurately-rounded hats, and at the same time the danger of spoiling hats by carelessness in rounding them is reduced to a minimum.

The machine which is the subject-matter of this application has been constructed and practically operated by me with the results suggested in the foregoing general statement.

For the purpose of' describing my invention it may be stated that there are two general classes of hats-first, those having curled bruns, whose edges are usually bound, and, second, those having a comparatively uncurled unbound edge, which are designated in the trade as boss raw-edge hats. My improved machine is applicable to the rounding of' hats of either style. Hats of' the first class when prepared for rounding have a decidedly-curled brim and a well-defined groove or corrugation running around the brim near the edge, such groove being formed by the cord with which the hat-body has been se'- cnred upon the former. ln rounding such hats the surplus is cut off just inside of this cord mark,groove, or corrugation. Boss rawedge hats when prepared for rounding usually have little, if any, curl and near the edge of the brim the4 edge is turned up so as to form a somewhat-angular flange-like edge clearly defined by the angle caused by the turn or bend in the edge of the brim. In rounding the formed brirns of such hats it is desirable to cut off the surplus to give a iin-- ished raw edge at a uniform distance outside of such angle or bend.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate my invention in a practical and efficient form and in the form now best known tome, Figure l is a side elevation; Fig. 2, a partial vertical longitudinal. section on the line 2 2 of Fig. 4; Fig. 3, a horizontal section on theliue 3 3 of Fig. l; Fig. 4, an enlarged end view viewed from the left side of Fig. 1; Fig. 5, a similar view showing modified devices to be used when boss raw-edge hats are to be rounded; Fig. 6, a horizontal section on the line 6 6 of Fig. 7; and Fig. 7, apartial side elevation, partly in section.

A is the standard of the machine, which may be attached to a base 'or table and has projecting laterally from it a frame whose outer end where the cutter is located is somewhat higher than the end attached to Athe standard. The purpose of this inclination is to facilitate the accurate feeding and rounding ot the brim by the cutter, since the curl orbend at the edge of the brim is of such contour that the hat will hang in proper position as it is being fed around under the cutter, as hereinafter more particularly described. The laterally-projecting frame consists ot' a base portion B and uprights C C, in which the cutter-shaft D has its bearings. One end of the cutter-shaft is provided with driving-pulleys d, and the opposite end carries a circular cutter E. A feed-.roll and cutter-Sharpener F has an enlarged opening f, through .which the shaft D passes, and also has upon one face an annular rib f. This feed-roll and Sharpener is pressed against the face of the cutter by IOO awange g on the sleeve Gr, fitted upon the shaft, and urged against the side of the roll by a spiral spring G', surrounding the sleeve and held between thetlange and the nut Gr2 on the end 'of the shaft. As shown in the drawings, the feed-roll and Sharpener F is held away from the face of the cutter by the rib f and operates merely as a feed-roll, as will be hereinafter described. When the roll is reversed, however, its iiat face lies against the cutter and in frictional contact therewith, and it then operates asl a Sharpener for, the cutter. In either position the frictional contact between the roll and cutter is such that the roll is carried around with the cutter, but ata less speed of rotation than that of the cutter. An adjustment in this-regard is afforded by varying the pressure of the spring G'.

In the end of the base B of the laterallyprojecting frame a dovetailed groove or way II is formed, and in it is fitted a sliding piece I, carried or controlled by a fiat spring I', secured at t' to the frame and having a tensionadjusting screw t passing through it and into the frame. The strain of this spring is upward, and its movement is limited in such direction by an adjustable screw-stop t2. A loose pin K, resting upon the upper face of the spring and passing through an aperture in the base-piece B, may be forced downwardly by a lever K', pivoted upon a horizontal stud or bolt k, to depress the spring and lower the piece I, carried by it. This lever, as indicated in Fig. 5, may have extending from it a connecting-rod Zt', that may be drawn down by a treadle suitably located so as to lower the piece I at the will of the operator, for a purpose that will presently appear. The piece I hasa lateral projection I2 extending therefrom on the same inclined plane in which the bed-plate B lies, and to the vertical end face of which is secured a shear-plate I3, that coperates with the circular cutter and has its upper edge rounded in the direction of its length. The feed and Sharpener roll F bears upon this edge, and the roll and plate coperate to form a feeding device for feeding the hat-brim to the cutter. A guide-block L, fitted to slide upon the lateral projection I2 of the piece I, is connected on each side by links M with a flanged sliding plate N, lying upon andv whose flanges embrace the edges of the bed-plate B.- The Vlinks have a pivotal motion upon the bolts that connect their ends to the block L and slidingplate N. A post N' on the bed-plate Athe direction of its length. On the upright C, adjacent to the cutter, is adj ustably mounted a bracket O, having al post at its outer end, upon which is adjustably secured by a setscrew the stern O of a guide-finger, the lower end of which extends parallel with the groove o and is curved upon its under face to conform to the general curvature of the bottom of the groove, which is generally that of the face of the block L. It will be obvious that by the manipulation of the screw-bolt fn. the

groove o in the block L may be adjusted toward and from the shear-plate and that by the adjustment of the guide-finger O2 it may be brought into proper relation with the groove so that these parts will coperate to form a supporting-guide for the hat in feeding it to the cutter. As indicated in Fig. 2, the corrngation formed near the edge of the hat-brim lies in the groove o and is guided therein by the guide-tinger O2. By the manipulation of the lever K the spring I' may be depressed, carrying with it the block L and the shear-plate I3. A hat having a curled brim X, such as shown in Fig. 2, may then be placed upon the block and shear-plate so that the convex portion of the corrugation a: formed therein lies in the groove o, and when the lever is released and the block L rises the guide-iinger will lie in the depression of the corrugation. The hat may now be fed to the machine, the feed being assisted by the roll F, and the inclination of the frame is such, as before stated, that the hat will hang naturally and the corrugation will travel within the guide-groove o under the guide-finger, the surplus portion of the brim being severed just inside the corrugation :r by the rotary cutter. The proximity of the guide-groove o to the edge of the cutter may be varied by the nianipulation of the screw-bolt n to adapt the machine to the rounding of different styles of hats having the brims prepared for rounding in 'the way shownthat is to say, the line of the rounding cut may be nearer to or farther from the corrugation, as may be desired.

It will be apparent that with little practice any one may operate this machine at a high speed and round a large number of hats and that they may be uniformly and relatively IOO IIO

perfectly rounded, so that a substantially nnii `to correspond generally with the curve of the edge of the shear-plate and is inclined transversely from the outer corner, angle, or edge downwardly. This transversely-inclined ed ge face forms a seat for the hat-brim, and its width is increased by a lateral flange p, extending part way over or` across the upper edge of the shear-plate. The plate P has a right-angular extension P' at one end, which is bolted to the block L, Fig. 6, and moves t with it. y

The grooved block L does not now perform the function of a guide, and the guide-linger O2 is therefore removed, so as not to obstruct the raw edge of the hat. To assist in the feeding of the hats, I employ a guide-finger Q, bolted to the sliding plate N and extending forward in front of the cutter and under which the hat-brim is fed. In this class of Work I prefer to substitute for the circular smoothedged cutter a circular cutter haring a serrated cutting edge, as seen in Fig. 5.

As seen in Fig. 7, the interior angle of the brim formed by the Harige-like edge y hangs upon the high outer edge of the plate P, and the flange-like edge y extends inwardly under the cutter and over the shearing edge of the shear-plate. The roll F, before, serves as a feed-roll. By adjusting the block L the plate P, carried thereby, may be moved toward or from the cutter to regulate the distance of the rounding cut from the angle in the brim. As previously stated, the inclination of the laterally-projecting frame is such that the hat hangs naturally, as indicated in Figs. 2 and 7, with its axis parallel, or substantially so, with the axis of the cutter and may readily be fed around under the cutter.

Because of the curl or flange-like edge of the hat-brim and the location of the crown of the hat entirely to one side of the plane Where the brim joins the hat-body a hat if suspended from the curl or flange edge of the brim will hang with its axis at an angle to the hori- Zontal. This is indicated in Fig. 2, Where the broken line a b indicates the axis of the hat. With the hat hanging as indicated in Fig. 2, and as-it will of course so hang when suspended from the edge .of its brim, if the cuttershaft Were horizontal the brims would not be rounded or cut With the same degree of perfection as Where the cutter-shaft is, as shown in the drawings, arranged at an angle to a horizontal plane and preferably at such angle as to be parallel, or substantially so, with the axis of the hat. Inthis machine the placing of the cutter-shaft at an angle such as that shown, or substantially so, is not therefore a mere arbitrary arrangement, but is one that results in the improved or more perfect operation of the machine. With a machine so organized the hat is suspended from the guide, hanging freely, so that it assumes the position determined by its center of gravity, and when carried around bythe feed devices it naturally maintains its relative relation to the operating parts of the machine with but slight guidance by the operator. Uniform work may he performed by the machine with but little danger of any of the hats being spoiled in the operation of rounding them.

In both of the constructions described there is present a brim-supporting guide that engages the curl or flanged edge of the hat-brim, and so suspends the hat as the brim is fed to the cutter. Thus in Figs. 1 to 4, inclusive, this brim-supporting guide consists of the grooved block L and the coperating guidenger. In Figs. 5 to 7, inclusive, the brimsupporting guide consists of the supporting and guiding plate P. It will be apparent that these two brim-supporting guides perform analogous functions and that by their lateral adjustment in line with the axis of the cutter the line of the rounding cut may be varied as desired.

I claim as my inventionl. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, a guide engaging the curl or Hanged edge of the hat-brim, supporting the hat therefrom so that it hangs with its axis substantially parallel with the axis of the cutter, and over which the curled edge of the brim is fed to the cutter, means for adjusting the guide in line with the longitudinal axis of the cutter to determine the line of the rounding cut on the edge of the brim, and means for depressing the brimsupporting guide to permit the insertion of the hat.

2. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, a guide arranged ben eath it and engaging the curl or flanged ed ge of the hatbrim,means for adjusting the guide in line with the longitudinal axis of the cutter, a spring-supported frame carrying such brim-guide, and means for depressing the frame to permit the insertion of the curled edge of the hat-brim. e

3. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, a fixed shear-plate coperating therewith, a guide engaging the curl or fianged edge of the hat-brim, means for adjusting such guide to determine thelocation of the rounding cut ou the curled edge of the brim, and means for depressing the guide to permit the insertion of the curled edge of the hat-brim.

4. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of the inclined laterally-projecting frame, a circular cutter and a cooperating shear-plate mounted at one end thereof, a

guide engaging the curl or flanged edge ofV the hat-brim, the inclination of the frame being such as to cause the hat to hang by its curled edge in proper position for the curled edge to be freely fed to the cutter,means for adjusting the guide in line With the longitudinal axis of the cutter, means for depressing it to permit the insertion of the curled edge ofthe hatbrim between it and the cutter, and a feeding IOO IOL,-

IIO

device for assisting the feed of the hat-brim a brim-supporting guide mounted upon suchv vertically-movable piece, means for adjusting the guide in line with the longitudinal axis of the cutter,and means for depressing the vertically-movable piece to permit the insertion of the hat-brim.

6. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of the inclined laterally-projecting frame having a guideway in the end face thereof, a spring-supported piece movable vertically in such guideway, a shear-plate coperating with the cutter and mounted upon a lateral extension of such movable piece, a brimsupporting guide sliding upon such lateral extension at right angles to the line of movement of the movable piece, means for adjusting the brim-supporting guide, and means for depressing the movable piece to permit the insertion of the hat-brim.

7. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of the laterally-projecting frame, a verticallymovable springsupported piece mounted in the end thereof, a shear-plate attached to the lateral extension from said piece, a rotary cutter cooperating with the shearplate, a brim-supporting guide mounted upon said lateral extension, a sliding plate mounted on the laterally-projecting frame, and operatively connected by links with the brimsupporting guide, means for adjusting the sliding plate to eect the adjustment of the brim-supporting guide, and means for depressing the vertically-movable piece to permit the insertion of the hat-brim.

S. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a laterally-projecting frame, a movable piece mounted in the end thereof, a flat sprin g supporting the movable piece attached to the laterally-extending frame, and lying beneath it, means for depressing the movable piece, a shear-plate carried by a lateral extension from the movable piece, a rotary cutter cooperating therewith, and a brim-supporting guide carried by the movable piece and adjustable in the line of the axis of the cutter, to determine the line of the rounding cut.

.9. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, a fixed shear-plate coperating therewith, a brim supporting guide engaging the curl or flanged edge of the hat-brim, means foradjusting such brim-supporting guide to determine the location of the rounding cut, means for depressing the guide to permit the insertion of the hat-brim, and a feed-roll loosely mounted upon the cuttershaftand bearing upon the hat-brim to assist the feed of the brim to the cutter.

10. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of the inclined laterally-projecting frame, a circular cutter and a cooperating shear-plate mounted at one end thereof, a brim-supporting guide engaging the curl or flanged edge of the hat-brim, from which the hat is thus suspended as it is fed to the cutter, means for adjusting the brim-supporting guide in line with the longitudinal axis of the cutter, means for depressing it to permit the insertion of the hat-brim between it and the cutter, and a feed-roll loosely mounted upon the cutter-shaft and bearing on the hat-brim to assist the feed of the brim to the cutter.

11. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, the shear-plate appropriately mounted with reference to the cutter, a grooved guide-block adjustable toward and from the cutter in lines parallel with its longitudinal axis, and an adjustable guide-foot coperating with the groove in the block, substantially as set forth.

12. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, the shear-plate appropriately mou nted with reference to the cutter at one side of the edge thereof, a feed-roll bearing upon the edge of the shear-plate adjacent to the cutter, a grooved guide-block on the other side of the edge of the cutter, and a guide-finger coperating with the groove in the block, substantially as set forth.

13. In a hat-rounding machine, the combiu nation of a rotary cutter, the shear-plate appropriately mounted with reference to the cutter at one side of the edge thereof, a feedroll bearing upon the edge of the shear-plate adjacent to the cutter and having an enlarged opening through which the shaft of the cutter passes and running in frictional contact with the side face of the cutter, a grooved guide-block Von the other side of the edge of the cutter, and a guide-finger cooperating With the groove in the block, substantially as set forth.

14. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of a rotary cutter, a shear-plate appropriately placed to one side of the edge thereof, a frame carrying the shear-plate, a spring for holding the frame up and means for depressing it to separate the cutter and shearplate.

l5. The combination with a rotary cutter, its shaft, a feeding-wheel with its opening larger than the shaft loosely mounted thereon in frictional contact with the face of the cutter and having an eccentric motion with respect to said shaft, for the purpose of assisting the feed of the hat-brim to the cutter, a brim-supporting guide engaging the curl or flange of the brim and from which the hat is suspended, and means for depressing said support and guide,substantially as described.

16. A Sharpener for rotary cutters, consisting of a smooth disk mounted loosely on the same shaft with the cutter, and means for holding it in contact with said cutter, substantially as described.

17. A Sharpener for rotary cutters, consisting of a smooth disk mounted on the same shaft with the cutter controlling it,said sharpener revolving in the same direction as the rotary cutter, and at a slower speed.

18. A combined feeding-wheel and sharpener for rotary cutters loosely mounted on the same shaft with the cutter, in frictional contact therewith and capable of being reversed on the shaft, so as to act in either position as IOO IIO

a feed-wheel and in one position as a sharpener also, substantially as set forth.

19. In a hat-rounding machine, the combination of the rotary cutter, its shaft, the reversible feed-wheel and cutter-sharpenerhaving an enlarged openingthrough which the shaft passes, a spring for holding one side of the wheel in frictional contact with the face of the cutter when acting as a Sharpener, and means as a rib on the other side of the Wheel for preventing close surface contact of the cutter and wheel when the latter is reversed, the Wheel in both positions acting as a feed- Wheel and in one position as a Sharpener also, substantially as set forth.

20. In a hat-rounding machine the combination of a laterally-projecting frame having an unobstructed space beneath its outer end, a hat support and guide arranged at the outer end of the frame and that engages the curled or flanged edge of the hat which is suspended freely from it with its crown turned inwardly, a rotating trimming-cutter arranged above the guide and support and cooperating therewith to trim or round the hat-brim as it is fed around under the cutter, and a feeding device acting upon the brim to assist in carrying it around under the cutter.

2l. In a hat-rounding machine the combination of a laterally-projecting frame having an unobstructed space beneath its outer end,

a vertically-adjustable hat support and guide arranged at the outer end of the frame and that engages the curled or flanged edge of the hat which is suspended freely from it with its crown turned inwardly, a rotating trimmingcutter arranged above the guide and support and coperating therewith to trim or round the hat-brim as it is fed around under the cutter and a feeding device acting upon the brim to assist in carrying it around under the cutter.

22. In a hat-rounding machine the combination of a laterally-projecting upwardly-inclined frame having an unobstructed space beneath its outer end, ahat support and guide arranged at the outer end of the frame and that engages the curled or anged edge ofthe hat which is suspended freely therefrom With its axis inclined to a horizontal plane and a rotating trimming-cutter arranged above the guide and support, turning about an axis parallel or substantially so with the axis of the hat and operating to trim the brim as the hat is fed around over the guide and support and under the cutter.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto subscribed my name.

JAMES STEWART, JR.

Witnessesz EDWARD L. SCHULTZ, WILLARD H. GARRISON.

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