US655143A - Ruffling sewing machine. - Google Patents

Description

N0. 655,|43L Patented July 3|, I900.

B. G. WOODWARD.

RUFFLING SEWING MACHINE.

(Application fllpd July 20,}898.)

(No Model.)

5 Sheets-Sheel I.

a w r R. G. WOODWARD. BUFFLING SEWING MACHINE.

No. s55,|43. Pa tented July 3|, I900.

{Applcaticn filed July 20, 1898.) (No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheel 2.

I "III" E In" "Hagan; HUT

illlli Mr m: norms PETERS co. mo'ro-urva, wnsnmr-Ton. n. r.

No. s55,|43. Patent ed July 3|, 1900. R. G. WOODWARD, BUFFLING SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed July 20, 1898.)

5 Sheets$heet 3,

(No Model.)

mamas PETERS 50.. PHU'YGLIYHO" WASHW'GTON, u cv R. G. WOUDWARI]. RUFFLING SEWING MACHINE.

Patented July 3|, I900.

(Application filed July 20, 1898.,

5 SheetsSheet 4,

(No Model.)

Patente d'luly 3|. I900.

.R. a. woonwAnn." BUFFLING SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed July 20, 1898.)-

5 Sheets-Sheet (No Model.)

W: name's dumm 0., WASHINGTON n c TATES A'rn FII E.

RUSSEL G. WOODWARD, or mama, ILL iNoIs, ASSIGNOR TO THE UNION SPECIAL SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

RUFFLING SEWING MACHINE. P

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters I: ate1 1t N0. 655, 3,k1 e i J 1113731, 1900- Application filed m 20, 1298; sit-1.1 686,444. on that) 7 To all whqm it moty conoe rn;

Be it known that I, RpssEL G.-WoonwAR1), a citizen of the United States, residing at WVaukegan, in the county of Lake, State of Illinois, have invented certain' new and useful Improvements in Rufliing and Sewing Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompany- Io marked thereon.

The present invention relates to an improvement in sewing-machines, and has especial reference to a combined ruiiiing and sewing machine, the ruiiiing mechanism being applied to the sewing-machine and being so arranged that it may be thrown into and out of operation without stopping or retarding the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, even when running at very high speed.

has been devised is for gathering or ruffling the back of a shirt across the shoulders and at the same time or in a continuous operation properly turning the edges and securing thereto the pieces of the double yoke, although it will be understood that the invention is not limited in its application to this class of work alone.

I11 the manufacture of shirts asheretofore carried on the method of securing the yoke and the back together was for an operator to ruffle the back of the shirt on one machine, then another operator put on the yokeand stitched it down, and then the third operator stitched on the other half of the yoke, making two rows ofstitching. In the present machine, as will be hereinafter described, by be ing drawings, and to the figures of reference i to put the fullness wherever required. Fur- The special work for which this machine ing enabled to throw the ruffler into and out of operation at will the-ruiiie may be put on at any desired point without interfering at all with the speed-of the machine, and, as backs of shirts are made some with the ruffle in the center, some with the ruffle on both shoulders, and some with three or more different ruflies on the back of the garment,in the use of the present machine, where the ruffler may be thrown in and out at will and the work all done on one machine and by one operator, there is an immense saving to the manufacturer. So, also, the present invention has proved of great value in the making of shirt waist sleeves. As heretofore manufactured one operator makes the body of the garment, seaming up the under-the-arm seam, another' operator ruffles the top of, the sleeve, still another operator sets the sleevesin, and the last operator binds. them. In the use of the present machine thestitching, rnffling, and taping are all done at one operation, the ruffler being thrown in and out at any point thermore, experience has shown that where the ruffler is thrown in and out at Will -as, for

instance, on the yoke of the shirt in addition to the saving of the 'cost of a number of operations to the manufacturer more uniform and better results can be secured, because the operator can alwaysbring her work out even,'thus preventing ripping out and sewing over or trimming of the work after it is completed, because this can be controlled during the operation of sewing while the machine is running at high speed.

The object of the invention therefore, broadly, is to provide a combined sewing and ruffling machine in which the ruftling device may be operated instantly at the full speed of the machine and thrown into and out of operation.

The invention therefore consists, prima- 8o rily, of a sewing-machine having a rufliing device, with means for throwing the same into and out of action while the machine is in operation without interfering with the sewing mechanism.

Secondly, the invention consists in a sewing-machine having a ruffling device, with positive means for throwing the ruffling device into action and means for automatically throwing it out of action.

Thirdly, the invention consists of means whereby when the ruiiiing mechanism is moved out of action the blade is automatically elevated from the work. Fourthly, it comprises means for automatically throwing the ruffler-blade down to its work before it commences the ruffling action.

. Fifthly, it Comprises means forpositively tilting the rufiier-blade out of 'contactwith the goods and automatically returning it when d eccentric devicefor regulating the guides the piece to be ruffled.

Again, it comprises a combined sewing-ma chine and ruffling device, with actuating mechanism for the ruffling device, operatixen ction be ween t e ru fl s evice and its actuating mechanism, with means under the control ofthe operator, cooperating with said operative connections for throwing the -latterinto and out of operation, said control-- lifigifiziiii being relatively stationary. with jrspsetiothe perative coiinections, wherehythe said controlling iiieahs are aecessibly presented to the operator irrespective of the steed or the mechanism: controlled thereby and the ruining deviceth-rowninto and out onop'eratioi without stopping or retarding .th'eiactidfi of-tli sewing-machine. f. Again, theihvehtion consists of a combined riifliin'giand sewing machine, with means ungr ei-ztlg oo'iitroLof theoperator for throwing .theriiiiiing device into and out of operation- Withohtiiiterfeiihg with the operation of sewwith guides for turnin the edges of two pi es effahri'c and giiiaiii g another piece to he liiedbetwe'en thetwo other pieces and delivering the same to'the stitch-forming iieohan m ,'whereby the rfui'iiingdevice may be thrf'dwfi intoaini out of operation without tltbfipiiig r rota ing the action of the sowiii'g inachihe, aiidboth hands of the operator ay b left, freeto manipulat the work.

Einaiiy, th ihvention consists in various ether matters. re'ifiafter described, and -re .fgerr eritoih, the appended claims. if invention is iuiistrated in the ac pahying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is aside elevation, partly broken of ase vviing and-ruining machine .eminvention. ..Fig. 2 is a view simi- Fik, 1, taken upon the opposite sideor 1,; f the machine. Fig.- 3 is an end view Of a sewing ahd r'iifiliil'g machine embodying the inventiom Fig. i is a perspective view fthe QdfiftBQ-Ihachine, taken from apoint toth right I "ii-front of the head. Fig. 5 is view, pa 1y iii section, taken beneath V5 5 the goosen ck or overhanging arm and looking toward the right hand end of the machine own in Fig. 1;. Gand 7 are detail view, partly in section, inreai-"aiid side elevati'fi, respectively of thedevices for connecting and disc; hectingthe ruffling mech h the driving-shaft. Figs. 8 and 9 ar g ,views, the former in section, of the In l t. PI! .r t- -Figs. 10 and 11 are repeoti eiy p1 and'side views of the throatplate. Fi s. 12, 13, and 14; are sectional, side,

and plan vieWS, respectively, of the folder.

' the machine.

foot detached; and Fig. 16 is a partial end view showing the relation'of the feed, presserfoot, throat-plate, and ruffler.

The construction of the machine to whic the present invention is applied is that of the ordinary Union Special two-line machine and need notbeherein specifically referred to. The main shaft is illustrated at 1, and at a point near the rear end of the bed-plate of the machine, inside the rear hearing, it is provided with an eccentric 2, working in a .block'3, which slides in ways in the fork i of thelockingarm 5, sleeved on the shaft 6, 8o which is journaled in a bearing in the lug 7 .onthe bed of the machine. Secured to or -fermed with the arm 5 is a guiding lug or rib- 8, formed onthe are of a circle, fitting when the ruflfler is thrown into operation the groove 91in the block 10, which block is pivotally hung between the arms of the fork '11 on the lower end of the pitman-rod 12, the latter at its upper end being freely jointed by the ball- .and-stud connection 13 to the arm let of the rock-shaft 15, journaled on'the goos'eneck of At the outer end of the rockshaft is clamped a head 16, formed on the upper end of a rod 17, this rod 17having a link connection 18 at its lower end with the horizontal transverse bar 19, sliding in lugs 20, secured to the bracket 21, attached to the head of the machine. This bar or rod 19 at itsfront end has a head 22,- to which is pivinner projectingledge 24e, to which is attached tlie ruffling-blade 25, these parts 22, 23, and 25- being removed from- Fig. 2, but shown clearly in Fig. 4; The fram'e23 is normally.

arm 5v is rocked the ruftler-blade will be reciprocated back and forth.

To render the machine capab the kind of work hereinbefore special form of foldinguide has been devised, compris'inga plate 27, secured to the bed-plate of the machine and having a raised portion 28, to which is secured the part 29,

lo of doing forward to a point in proximity to thence- .dles, and three guiding-recesses+ one,131, formed by-the side walls of the raised part 28,.the lip 32, and the wall 33; another, 34,

ofthe same as the ruffler recedes.

One part i of the presser-foot 42 is pivoted to the other part and is adapted to be lowered by the acig-1 5.151 a perspective viewpor the ress rtion'of the lever-43, whereby it may always oted eccentrically the frame 23, having an I00 kept depressed bymeans of the spring 26 in I05 1 the head 22. It will thus be seen that as the mentioned, a 1 10 comprising the stripper plate 30, extending r15 formedby the upwardly-curved lip 35, and I20 The throat-plate 38 has 12 5 the goods as it falls and prevent any pulling 13o be made'to engage the fabric being gathered, no matter of what thickness the same may be.

As a further and special improvement in machines of this character I have provided means under the control of the operator for throwing the ruflier into and out of action, and when thrown out of action for insuring its return to the proper point for again beginning its rufiiing action. Referring to Figs. 1 and 5, 44 is a vertical rod depending from the table or bench on which the machine is supported and having a knee-piece 45 arranged to be manipulated by the operator. Therod 44 is secured at its upper end to'the arm 46, freely pivoted to the horizontal rod 47, which at its opposite end is freely pivoted to.the arm or lever 48, pivoted at its upper end to the rock-shaft. 15, and having adjacent its upper end a projection 49, against which bears a spring 50, normally keeping the lower end of the lever48 swung outwardly. lower end ofthis lever48 is pivotally attached a link 51, also pivoted to the sliding block 10, which block 10 has a tongue on its under side riding in the groove 52,and said lever and slide are prevented from being thrown outwardly too far by the detent 53. The lever 48, near its upper end, pivotally engages the arm 54 of the rocking frame 55, pivoted on the rockshaft 15, the arm corresponding to 54 on the opposite end of the frame having pivoted to it the link 56, which at its opposite end is pivoted to the upper end of the swinging lever 57, hung on a pivot projecting from the bracket 21. This swinging lever 57 has secured to its lower end a piece 58, having a fork 59 on its lower end, normally under the action of the spring'50, engaging the pin 60 on the ruflier-frame and keeping the latter retracted and. the ruflier tilted up at its forward end against the action of the spring 26. The spring 50, of course, tends normally to keep the block 10 out of engagement with the guide 8 on the rocking arm 5, and it is only when the lever 48 is retracted against the action of said spring that the block 10 engages said guide 8 and motion is transmitted to the rock-shaft 15 to cause the rufiiing action. To regulate the size of the rufiie, an eccentric indexed stop 61 is provided,against which the lever 48 strikes, thus regulating the extent of engagement of the block 10 with the arm 5, and thus the amount of throw of the rockshaft 15.

To prevent confusion, I have called the part 5, which is, strictly speaking, a rocking frame, an arm, in order to distinguish it from the part 55, which is referred to as a Frocking frame, the terms arm and frame being both intended to be used in their generic sense.

When it is desired to sew in the ordinary manner, this can be done in the usual way. If desired to gather or ruffle, the knee-piece is pressed upon by the operator, the block 10 moving into engagement with the arm 5, and this action at the same time through the parts To the 48,54, 55,56, 57, and 58 causes the fork to Withdrawits pressure from the pin 60 and allows the spring 26 to tilt down the forward end of the ruffier, and as the 'block'lO comes upon the guide 8, which is in the are of a cirole, the ruffler begins to move forward. On release of the knee-piece by the operator the block 10 moves oif the guide 8, and the parts 48, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, and 59act to cause the last-named part to engage the pin 60 and move the bar 19 and frame toward the front of the machine, and as the block 10 moves 0% the guide 8 the lower end of the lever 48 will be thrown out, and thus through the described connections the piece 58 will tilt up the front end of the rufiler-blade against the.

spring 26. It will be noted from this construction that as soon as the block 10 moves into engagement with the end of the guide 8, which first point of engagement is practically at the pivot-point or point of minimum swing of the rocking arm 5, the ruffler will begin to operate slightly, gradually increasing until the full engagement of the block 10 with the guide Sis accomplished, when the full ruffling action takes place, and as the parts are re-, leased by the operator and the block 10 moves oif the way or guide 8 the size of the rufiie By this construc-.

will gradually decrease. tion it is possible for the operator by slow manipulation of the controlling means in both directions to make a cluster of ruffles,.

device maybe graduallybrought intoengage ment and gradually released to form a taper or cluster set of ruffles, and I therefore claim the same broadly, whether, the minimum throw of the ruffler be at the first point of 0011- tact, or vice versa, so long as the connections between the driving-shaft and the ruifling de-,

vice include means whereby the rufliing device may be given strokes or movements of successively-varyinglengths. Furthermore, it will be seen that by providing the means under the control of the operator for throw-' ing the ruffler into and out of action, whichare operable independent of the handset the operator,both hands of the operator maybe left free to manipulate the work, and -;that

without, stopping or retarding the action of the machine, even when running at the highest speed of which it is capable or while the machine is maintaining or is at its normal working speed, it will not be necessary to stop or retard the stitch-forming mechanism in order to throw the ruflier into and out of action.

As herein shown, the controlling means which enable the operator to throw the rufitling device into and out of action do not substantially partake of the movement of the operative connections between the actuating mechanisfm and i the ruffling device and are-relatively" stationary with respect to the mechanism controlled by said controlling meansthat is to say, the controlling means are so placed with respect to the operator that they are accessibl-y presented to him irrespective of the speed of the mechanism controlled by them.

It will bereadily seen that if the: part intended to be directly manipulated by the op erator for throwing the ruflling device into and out of operation were made such an es.-

partake of its full speed it would not be practically possible with the machine running-at a high rate of speed-say twothousand livehundred or three thousand stitches a minute forthe operator readily to grasp-a part vibrat ing. at such rate. Therefore I have provided a construction by which. the-cont rolling means anism may be.

illustrated embodies apractical means of car-- rying-my invention into efiect', in which nra-,

chine the means under the control of the operatorare'stationary with respectto the mechanism controlled thereby, still I do not wishto be understood as necessarily limiting my-: selfto-this particular embodiment. It is only necessary that the controlling means should at all times bereadily accessible to the opera- 7 tor, and to afford such accessibilityit is de-' sirable that the part directly manipulated: by.

the-operator should not itself move at the high rate of speed of which the driving mech- 7 I I whereby onan organized high-speed sewing be thrown into and out of operationwithout be thrown intoand out of operation while'the machine maintains or is at its normal rate of anism is capable. Hence it will'be undertor for throwing the ruflling device into and out of operation, without stopping or retarding the action of-the sewing-machine", said controlling means being at all times" accessi- 'fbly presented to the operator irrespective of the speed of the-mechanism controlled thereby, whereby at high speed the rufiling device may be thrown into and out of operation, 1 without stopping or retarding the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, said stitchforming mechanism maintaining its normal working speed; substantially as described.

sential part of the driving mechanism asi-to 2 3. The combination with a sewing-machine, of a: ruflling device; actuating mechanism therefor, operative con-nections'between the two,andmeans under the control of theoperat-or cooperating with said operative connectionsfor throwing thelatter intoand out of operation, the actuating member of thecontrol ling means being at all times aceessibly pre- 'sented to the operator,irrespective of the speed ofthemechanism con-trolled thereby;-

substantially as described. Whilethe machine herein described and I 4-. @he combinationwith'a sewing-machine,

Eof a rufiling device, actuating mechanism therefor, operative connections between the 5 two, and meansiunder the control of the opera= tor, cooperating with said operative connections'for throwing the-latterin-toand out of operation,-said controlling means being rela- Z tivelystationary' with respect to-the operative connections, whereby the said controlling means are accessibly presented to the opera tor, irrespective-oi" the speed of the mechanism controlled thereby, and the rufiiing de- .vice= thrown into and out of operation without stopping or retarding the action of thei I isewing-machine; substantially as described. stoodthat as I believel am the first-to pro- 5-. 'lhe'com-bination with a sewing-machine,

mechanism to be stopped or modified or may speedgl wish to claim my invention in the broadest: possible way.

Various minor modifications-and changesin the construction of the apparatus may be madewithout departing from the spirit ofthe invention.

Having" thus described my invention, what Iclaim asnew, and desireto secureby Letters Patent, is Y l... The combination with-a sewing=machine,

and means, under the control ofthe opera-tor,-

action of thestitch-formingmechanism; substantially as described.

" 2. The combination with-a sewing machine,

of a ruflling device,.with means for operating it, and: means under the control of theopera:

or a ruining device, actuating; mechanism therefor, operativeconnections between the two',andmeansunder the controlof theoperator, cooperating with said operative connections, for throwing the latter into and out of joperation', the. said controlling means being" {relatively stationary with respect to the operative connections and so located as to be i operable independent of the hands of the oplerator whereby said controlling means are accessibly presented 1 to the operator irre- ;.spective of the speed of the mechanism con- Etrolled thereby, the ruifiing device may be ,1 thrown into and out of operation without 1 stopping or retarding the actionof the sow- ;ing-machine, and both hands of the operator may be leftfreetomanipulatethe work; substantially as described.

of a rufliing; device, means for operating it,

6. In. combination with a sewing-machine,

I I a rufliin g device, actuating mechanism therefor throwing the ruffling device into and out of action without stoppingo-rretarding the for, operativeconnectionsbetween the two, and means under the control'of the operator,

5 codperative with said operative connections but not substantially partakin g of the movementthereof, for rendering said connections foperative or inoperative whereby the rufliin g i: mechanism may be thrown into and out of operation without stopping or retarding the action of the sewing-machine; substantially as described.

7. The combination with a sewingmachine, of a ruftling device, actuating mechanism therefor, operative connections between the two, and means under the control of the operator, cooperating with said operative connections but forming no part thereof, for throw-j ing said operative connections into and out of engagement with the actuatingmechanism, without stopping or retardingthe action of the sewing-machine; substantially as described. a

8; In combination with a sewing-machine, a ruftling mechanism, and means for actuating said rufiiing mechanism, connections between the actuating mechanism and the ruffiing mechanism, and means under the control of the operator substantially independent of said actuating mechanism and not'aiding in the driving function of said operative connections, for rendering said connections operative or inoperative, whereby the ruffling mechanism may be thrown into and out of operation without stopping or retarding the action of the sewing-machine; substantially as described.

9. The combination with asewingmachine, provided with suitable stitch-forming mechanism, and having in combination'therewith means for guiding independent overlapping pieces of fabric to the stitch-forming mechanism, a rufliing device, actuating mechanism therefor, operative connections between the two, and means under the control of the operator, cooperative with said operative connections, but not substantially partakingof the movement thereof, said controlling means being adapted to be operated independently of the hands of the operator whereby the ruffling mechanism may be rendered operative or inoperative without stopping or retarding the action of the sewing-machine, and leaving both hands of the operator free to manipulate the work; substantially as described.

I 10. The combination with a sewing machine, of a rufliing device, a driving-shaft, a rocking arm oscillated thereby, operative connections between the rocking arm and the rutfling device, said operative connections including a part having sliding engagement with said rocking arm, and means under the control of the operator for causing said sliding part to engage with, or be disconnected from the rocking arm, without interfering with the rotation of the driving-shaft, whereby the ruftiing device may be thrown into and out of operation without interfering with the action of the sewing-machine; substantially as described.

11. In combination with a sewing-machine, a rufliing device with means for operating it, means for throwing the same into and out of operationwithout stopping or retarding the action of the sewing mechanism, said means under the control of the operator acting posi eration without stopping or retarding the action of the sewing mechanism, and means for throwing it out of action when the controlling means are released by the operator; substantially as described.

i 13. In combination with a sewing-machine, a ruflling attachment, with means for operating it, means under the control of the operator for throwing the same into and out of operation without stopping the action of the sewing mechanism, a rnffler-blade, and means whereby when the rufliing mechanismis' moved out of action, the blade is automatically lifted from the work, and depressed when the ruffling mechanism is moved into action; substantially as described.

14. In combination with a sewingmachine', ruffiing mechanism including a ru'fliing-blade, normally held in position to engage the work when its operating mechanism is throwninto action, means under the control of the oper tion of the sewing mechanism, and means whereby when the ruftling mechanism is thrown out of action, the blade is raised out of contact with the work; substantiallyas described. 15. In combination witha sewing-machine,

a ruffiing mechanism, and means under the control of the operator for throwing the same into and out of operation, without interfering with the action of the sewing-machine, said ruiiiing mechanism including a tilting frame, a'ruIfling-blade carried thereby, said frame being normally depressed to cause the blade to engage the work, means for operating the rnfliing mechanism, and means brought into operation when the ruffling mechanism is thrown out of action, to tilt the frame upward; substantially as described. I 16. In a sewing-machine, a driving sha'ft, a ruffling mechanism with means for throwing the same into and out of operative connection ruining-blade supported thereby, mechanism for operating the ruining-blade,and'mechan ism for throwing it out'of action, said mechanism including the rockingframe' 55, the arm 48 "attached thereto, norm ally spring substantially as described.

20. In the herein-described machine, the

pressed outwardly, the lever 57 attached tothe opposite end of the rocking frame 55, and normally in engagement with said. tilting frame which supports-the rufliing-blade; substantially as described.

18. Ina machine of the character described, a ruffling mechanism, and means forthrowing it into and out of operation, said rufliing mechanism including a tilting ruffler-blade support, and means for tilting said support including the rocking frame 55, means to oscillate said frame when the ruftler mechanism is thrown into or out, of action and connecf tionsextending between the rocking frame 55 tiltingframe normally spring-pressed downwardly, aprojection or pin on the frame, the

forked piece engaging the pin or projection,

a pivoted rocking frame to which the forked piece is connected, a rock-shaft upon which said rocking frame is pivoted, said rocking frame and rock-shaft being connected toa common part with means for moving said commonpart into and out of operative engagement with the driving-shaft; substantially as described. a

2-1; In the herein-described machine, thetilting frame normally spring-pressed downwardly,a projection or pin on the frame, the forked piece engaging the pin or projection, a pivoted rocking frame to which the forked piece is connected, a rock-shaft upon which said rocking frame is pivoted, a pivoted sliding block as 10, an arm as 5, operated from the mainshaft, said frame having a guide to engage the block 10, the pitman 12 connecting' the rock-shaft with the block, and the levers-4:8 and 51 connecting the rockingframe with the block 10, whereby as the block moves outof engagement with the arm 5, the forked piece tilts the ruffler-blade support; substantially as; described.

22. In a sewing-machine, a driving-shaft, a rockin gfra me oscillated thereby,a rufliing-device, connections between the rufiling device and the rocking arm, said connections including a block slidably engaging the rock ingarm, and means under the control of the operator for causing the block to engage the rocking arm or release it, therefrom without interfering with the operation of sewing, and an adjustable detent for varying the extent.

fengagement of the block with" the rocking arm; substantially as described. 7

'" 23. In combination with a sewing-machine,

a driving-shaft, a ruftling device-,a rocking arm, oscillated by thedriving-shaft, connections between thevrocking arm, and the'ruffi ing device for operating the latter, means for controllingthelength of ruffle, and'means under the control of the operator for throw ing the rufliing attachment into and out of operation without interfering with the action of the sewing mechanism; substantially as 1' described.

24. Ina sewing-machine, a driving-shaft, a

rocking arm oscillated thereby, a ruffling de- 3 vice, and connections between the ruftling device and the rocking arm, said connection-sineluding a rock-shaft, a block having a sliding engagement with the rocking arm, acrankand-pitman-connectionbetween the block and the rock-shaft, whereby in the operation of the rocking arm the rnflier'is operated, means for forcing the block into engagement with the rocking arm, and means for throwing'the block out of engagement with therocki-ng arm when the ru filing action is no longer desired substantially as described.

25. In a sewing-machine, a drivingshaft, a rocking armoscillated thereby, a rufliingdevice, and connections between the rufiiin'gdevice and rocking arm, said connections including a rock shaft, a. block havingasliding engagement with the rocking arm, a crankand-pitman connection between the block and the rock-shaft, wherebyinthe operation of the rocking arm the ruffler is: operated,;means for forcing the block into engagement with the rocking arm, and means for throwing the blockout of engagement with-the rocking arm when the rufiling action is no longer desired,

said means including an independent device 'for operating the ruflier'whereby the-,latter-is returned to the commencement of its'stroke; substantially as described.

26'. In asewing-machine,a driving-shaft, a rocking arm oscillated thereby, and having a transverse rib thereon, a block provided with agroove engaging said rib, apitman to which said block is pivotally hung, a rock-shaft havinga crank connection with said pitman, and a rnffler operatively connectedwithsaid rockshaft, said operative connections between the rather and the rock-shaft including a sliding bar to which the ruflier'is attached, and 0s oillating, connections between the bar and the rock-shaft; substantially as described.

v 27. In a sewing-machine, in combination with-a ruffling attachment and means for operating it, means for throwing the ruffler into position to engage the work, saidmeans comprising a lever under the control of; the operator, a swinging arm, a rocking frame connected to said arm, and connections be tween the-end of the rockingframe and the ruflier supporti'ng device, whereby when the driving connections for the whim are out of engagement the ruiiler will be thrown out of engagement with the work; substantially as described.

28. In a sewing-machine, a driving-shaft, a ruftling mechanism, including a willingblade, and operative connections between the ruffling mechanism and the driving-shaft for operating the former, means for disconnecting the ruffling mechanism from the drivingshaft, and mechanism operated when the rutfiing mechanism is disconnected from said driving-shaft, for returning the ruffiing-blade to a position out of engagement with the work; substantially as described.

29. In a sewing-machine, a driving-shaft, a ruflling mechanism, including a ruffiing blade, andoperative connections between the ruffling mechanism and the driving-shaft for operating the former, means for disconnecting the ruftling mechanism from the drivingshaft, and mechanism operated when the rutfling mechanism is disconnected from the driving-shaft, for returning the ruflier-blade to a position out of engagement with the work, said mechanism including a pivoted lever engaging the ruflier to force it back and interfering with the operation of sewing, a

swinging arm, a rocking frame, connections between the end of the roekin g frame and the ruffler-blade support adapted to be thrown into operation when the rufiler-drivin g mechanism is disengaged from the driving-shaft; substantially as described.

31. In a sewing and ruffling machine, suitable stitch-forming mechanism, a ruffling de-.

vice, including a ruffiing-bl'ade and its sup port, and means under thecontrol of the operator for operating the rufflin g device without interfering with the operation of sewing, a swinging arm, a rocking frame, connections between the ends of the rocking frame and the ruffler-blade support adapted to be thrown into operation when the ruffler-driving mechanism is disengaged from the driving-shaft, and means for normally holding the mufflerdriving mechanism out of operative-engagement with the driving-shaft; substantially as described.

32. In a sewing-machine, a driving-shaft, a rocking arm oscillated thereby, a rufiiingdevice, connections between the ruffling device and the rocking arm, said connections including an elongated engaging surface, and

means connected with the ruftling device to engage said surface to a variable extent, said means being under the control of the operator; whereby the ruffiing device may be operated with gradually-increasing throw from the time of first contact of the operative connections with the rocking arm until the full engagement takes place and vice versa; substantially as described.

33. In a combined sewing and ruffling machine, a ruftling device, actuating mechanism therefor, operative connections between the two and means for throwing the operative connections into and out of engagement with the actuating mechanism while the machine is in operation, the coengaging members of the operative connections and actuating mechanism including means whereby the operator may impart a gradually-increasing throw to the ruffling device from the point of first contact to the maximum point of engagement; substantially as described.

34. In a combined ruffling and sewing machine, a rufliing device, actuating mechanism therefor including a rocking arm, operative connections between the rocking arm and the ruffiin g device, said operative connectionsbein g movable into and out of engagement with the rocking arm, the first point of engagement being substantially in line with the axis on which the arm rocks, whereby at that point the throw of the ruflier is least, and gradually increases as the operative connections move into engagement with the rocking arm; substantially as described.

35. In a combined ruflling and sewingma chine, a ruftling device, actuating mechanism therefor, including a rocking arm, operative connections between the rocking arm'and the rufilin g device, said operative connections being movable into and out of engagement with the rocking arm, the first point of engagement being substantially in line with the axis on which the arm rocks, whereby at that point the throw of the ruffler is least, and gradually increases as the operative connections move into engagement with the rocking arm, and an adjustable detent for varying the extent of engagement of the operative connections with the rocking arm; substantially as described.

36. In a sewing-machine, a driving-shaft, a rul'fling device, and operative connections between the driving-shaft and the ruffling device for operating the latter, said connections between the driving-shaft and the ruftiing device, including means whereby said ruifiing. device may be given strokes or movements of successively varying lengths; substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I aifix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

RUSSEL G. VVOODWARD.

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