US639669A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

No. 639,669. Patented Dec. I9, !899. C. A. DEABBUHN.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Aiuplication filed 1m 14, 1899;) (No Model.) 3 Sheets8heet I.

IN VE N 70/? B) WA A TTBHNEY No. 639,669. Patented Dec. l9, I899.

c. A. DEABB DRN. SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Mar. 14, 1899.)

3 Sheets-Shoet 2.

(No Model.)

WITNESSES THE Nonms rzrzns ca. PHOTD-L|THO., WASHINGTON, o c

A TTOHNE) C. A. DEARBORN.

SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Mar. 14, 1899.)

(No Mqdel.)

Wig-.12

IN VENTOE Patented Dec. l9, I899.

3 Sheets-Sheet 3,

onARLES A. DEARBoRN, on NEW YoRK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR or TWO-THIRDS ro JEROME w. HYDE, or SPRINGFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS, AND CHARLES T. CLARK, OF NEWARK, NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 639,669, dated December 19, 1899.

Application filed March 14, 1899, Serial No. 708,989- (No model.)

T to whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES A.DEARBORN, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing- Machines, of which the following is a specification.

The invention relates to improvements in [O sewing-machines; and it consists in the novel features, arrangement, and combinations of parts hereinafter described, and more particularly pointed out in the claims.

The object of the invention is to provide a machine for doing blind-stitching and, when desired, overseaming blind-stitching, such as might be required, among other purposes, for seaming the lower edge of trousers-legs, Skirts, and other garments; and in carrying the invention into effect my purpose is to provide a very durable machine comprising the minimum number of partsand adapted for high speed.

A further object of the invention is to cause the looper to describe a new path in forming the stitches, whereby any tendency on the part of the looper to clash or interfere with the needle when the machine is running under high speed is entirely obviated.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine whose parts are substantially entirely exposed for the convenience of the operator in applying the goods to be sewed and for the convenience of the manufacturer in constructing the machine or repairing the same or adding renewed parts thereto.

The invention will be fully understood from the detailed description hereinafter presented, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a top view, partly broken away, of a machine constructed in accordance with and embodying the invention. Fig. 2 isa detached sectional View of a portion of same onthe dotted line 2 2 of Fig. 1 and lookinginto the clutch mechanism for actuating the feed mechanism. Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the machine. Fig. 4is a detached side elevation of a port-ionof the mechanism fordriving the looper. Fig. 5 is a detailed horizontal longitudinal section of same. Fig. 6 is a vertical longitudinal section through a portion of the machine on the dotted line 6 6 of Fig. 1 and illustrates more particularly the means for imparting motion from the power-shaft to the lever-arm which is connected by a pitmanrod with the clutch mechanism shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is an enlarged top view, partly in section, of aportion of the machine and illustrates more particularly the feed-cylinder, rigid presser-foot, looper, and needle, the needle being shown as having passed through the goods and about to recede and the looper being shown as passing forward with its projecting pointed end under the loop of the thread. Fig.8 is a top view, partly in section, showing the rigid presser-foot, the goods being sewed, the looper, and the needle, the needle being shown as having substantially receded from the goods and the looper as having advanced toward the operator and carrying the loop forward in a substantially horizontal direction on a substantially straight path. Fig. 9 is a like view of same, the needie in this figure being shown as having passed entirely from the goods and to the left of the looper and the looper being shown as having completed its forward motion and as having turned axially almost entirely across the line of the sewing. Fig. 10 is a like view of same, the looper being shown as having completed its motion to the left of the line of sewing and as receding toward the rear on a substantially horizontal path and the needle being shown as passing below the point of the looper and through the loop just about to be dropped by the looper. Fig. ll is a detached front elevation, partly broken away, of that portion of the machine more directly connected with the operation of sewing, this figure illustrating a part of the feed-cylinder, the rigid presser-foot, the needle, and the looper, the needle and looper being shown substantially in the position in which they are illustrated in Fig. 7. Fig. 12 is a vertical transverse sectional view on the dotted line 12 12 of Fig; 7, and Fig. 13 is a plan view of a piece of the goods sewed upon and illustrating the overseaming-stitch made by the machine embraced in this application.

In the drawings, A designates the rigid general frame of the machine, this frame comprising the base B, upon which the machine may rest, the broad upwardly-extending rear arm or section 0, which terminates in the sleeves or bearings D D, the forwardly-projecting arm E, which guides the needle-bar and looper, and the front substantially vertical broad arm F, which is in line with the rear arm C and at its upper end is formed with the sleeve G, which receives the horizontal shaft H of the hinged front plate or section I, carrying the feed mechanism. The frame A comprises the base 13, arm 0, sleeves D D, arm E, arm F, and sleeve G, which are in one integral casting, and, as shown, the arms C F afford at their upper portions the bearings for the power-shaft (lettered J) and the shaft H, upon which the plate or section I, carrying the feed mechanism, has its motion.

The hinged plate or section I is cast with the sleeves K K to receive the ends of the shaft H and also with the sleeves L L, which afford bearings for the feed-shaft M. The section or plate I is also cast with the forwardly-projecting handle N, which is in the form of a flat arm of convenient outline to receive the pressure of the hand of the operator when it is desired to press the front portion of the plate or section I downward, so that the feed-wheel 0 may pass sufficiently below the rigid presser-foot P to permit of the introduction of the fabric between said feed-wheel and said presser-foot. The plate or section I is shown in its normal upper position in Figs. 1 and 3, and said plate orsection is normally retained in this position by means of a spring Q, (shown in Fig. 3 by full lines and in Fig. l by dotted lines,) which spring is held at one end by the rod R and at its other end is connected with the arm S, which is cast with the plate or section I and extends downward from the left-hand sleeve K. The innerend of the rod will be threaded, so that it may be screwed into the front portion of the arm F and also so that thereby said arm B may be rendered adjustable in order to create more or less tension in its spring Q, according to the strength of the spring, the thickness of the goods to be sewed, and other circumstances. Substantially in line with the rod B there is provided in a hub T, cast on the arm F, an adjusting-screw V, whose point is in position to form a stop for the arm S, and the purpose of this adjusting-screw V in forming a stop for the arm S is to adjust and limit the upward motion of the plate or section I and feed-cylinder O in accordance with the character of goods or fabric to be sewed. When the plate or section I is turned downward to relieve the feed-cylinder 0 from the rigid presser-foot P and is then released, the spring Q, will restore the sect-ion or plate I and feed-cylinder O to their normal upward position.

The section or plate I is, as shown, substantially horizontally disposed and carries the transverse feed-shaft M, having upon one end the feed-cylinder O and upon the other end the clutch-wheel \V, and said feed-shaft M receives its motion from the power-shaft J through the medium of the eccentric X (see Fig. 6) on said shaft, the pivotedlever Y, whose upper end is forked to engage said eccentric X, the pitman-rod Z, whose rear end engages and is adjustable in the slotted lower end of said lever Y, and the rocking lever a, (shown in Fig. 2,) whose lower end is pivotally secured to the front end of the pitman-rod Z and which cooperates with the clutch-dogs I) Z) of well-known form and construction in this art and which engage the rim of the clutchwheel I, so as to turn said wheel upward and toward the rear when the pitman-rod Z is moving forward and release said rimand slide freely thereon when the pitman-rod Z is moving toward the rear. The pitman-rod Z is horizontally disposed and is exposed, and its connection with the rocking lever Y and rocking arm a is at exposed points, so that said rod and its connections may be readily gotten at for the purpose of adjustment or otherwise. The clutch-wheel W is also in an outer exposed position, so that it may be readilyinspected or removed without disturbing the other parts of the machine. In order that the clutch-wheel W may have no reverse motion and simply a positive predetermined feed motion, I provide at the front of the arm F a brake comprising a rod d, having an outer split end which straddles the rim of the clutch-wheel and is normally held in position by a spring c (shown in Fig. 1) from binding against the face edge of the arm of the clutch-wheel W. The rod d is mounted in lugs or sleeves ff, cast on the lower side of the plate or section I, and its outer split end (indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 2) straddles the rim of the wheel W in the same manner that the arms of the dogs I) b straddle said rim. The brake, comprising the rod (1 and spring 6, permits the driving of the clutchwheel Win the direction in which said wheel may be actuated by the clutch-dogs b b, but prevents any reverse motion of said wheel.

\Vhile the general form and construction of the main frame A and the hinged section or plate I, with the disposition of the actuating parts hereinbefore referred to, are important and desirable, in that they render the machine durable and inexpensive of construction, the more important features of the machine are those presented at the left-hand side thereof and comprising the needle, looper, and feed-cylinder, together with the mechanism by which said parts receive their motion, and since the feed-cylinder O has been hereinbefore referred to by referenceletter I will proceed at once to describe it.

The feed-cylinder O is, as shown in Figs. 1, 3, and 7, cylindrical in outline and secured upon the left-hand end of the feed-shaft M, and said feed-cylinder 0 comprises the outer IIO fabric and enables the needle to form a blind stitch. The grooved portion it affords space for the fold in the fabric to rest within and insures the convenient inward feeding of the fabric, and the taper portion g of said cylinder O affords abundant room for the proper guiding of the fabric by hand and its easy insertion below the rigid presser-foot P. The annular shoulderj of the feeding-cylinder O presses the goods upward into the curve m of the presser-foot P, so that the needle may pass through the upper layer of the goods and only partly through the lower layer of the goods, and thus at all times be enabled to make the blind stitch-that is, astitch whose threads will not appear at the outer side of the fabric. The feed-cylinder O is on the shaft M, and since the shaft M is carried by the plate or section I the feed-cylinder 0 may be readily moved downward from the presserfoot P whenever desired.

The presser-foot P is a rigid piece of metal carried by the arm E at the front portion of the latter and curving downward to the right and then toward the left over the feed-cylinder O, as illustrated in Fig. 11. The foot portion at of the presser-foot P contains the curve m, hereinbefore referred to, and is formed with the elongated opening q, (shown in Figs. 7 and 8,) through which the needle may move and which permits of the proper manipulation by the looper. The needle moves transversely across the path of the fabric and is lettered r, and this needle 0 is curved, as shown in Figs. 11 and 12, so as to travel on an arc of a circle. The needle r is secured in the lower end of an oscillating arm 8, which extends outward and downward from the front end of the needle-shaft 2f, the latter being mountedin sleeves ww, cast on the outer side of the arm E, forming a part of the main casting A. Thus the said needleris mounted to swing or reciprocate horizontally, or ap- I proximately so, so as to be adapted to pierce a raised bend or bight of horizontally-disposed fabric. The shaft t is a rock-shaft and receives its motion from the power-shaft J through the eccentric or on said shaft, as shown in Fig. 4, the eccentric-strap y upon said eocentricm, the eccentricrod 2, connected with said strap, the pin A, engaged by the upper end of said eccentric-rod .2, and the crank B, which at one end carries said pin A and at its other end, which is tubular, as at O, is fastened upon the rear end of the said shaft 15. During the revoluble motion of the power-shaft J the eccentric 0c imparts a substantially vertical motion to the eccentricrod 2, and this in turn imparts a substantially oscillating motion to the crank B, whereby the shaft t is caused to rock in its bearings .10 w and to impart an oscillating motion to the arm 5, directly carrying the needle r, the latter being thereby caused to enter and-recede from the fabric under the action of the power-shaft J.

The looper-rod is lettered D, and it receives its motion from the power-shaftJ and carries at its front end the looper E,which is of novel form and construction and will be hereinafter more fully described. The looper-rod D is given a reciprocatory motion and also an axial motion from the power-shaft J by the means more fully illustrated in Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 5, in which it will be seen that upon the end of the power-shaft J is secured a disk F, having the angular arm G extending outward therefrom and carrying at right angles thereto the pin H, upon which is mounted or swiv eled the sleeve 1, the latter being capable of a revoluble motion upon said pin H and being directly connected with the looper-rod D through the medium of the yoke J. (More fully illustrated in Fig. 3.) The arms of the yoke J are mounted upon the ends of a pin K, passing through the sleeve 1 at one side of the pin H", and the ends of the arms of said yoke J may turn upon said pin K, as upon trunnions. The disk F, arm G, pin H, sleeve 1, and yoke J constitute a novel mechanism for transmitting motion from the power-shaft J to the looper-rod D and for converting the revoluble motion of said shaft J into a reciprocatory and oscillating motion in the looperrod D. The revoluble motion of the disk F, carrying the pin H, drives the looper-rod D back and forth in a horizontal direction, and in view of the angular position of the pin H and the swiveled connection of the sleeve J thereon with the looper-rod D the latter during this reciprocatory motion is also given a' limited axial oscillation for the purpose of causing the looper E to travel forward along the right-hand side of the path of sewing, as shown in Fig. 7, to a point in advance of the needle, as denoted by Fig.8, and then to turn upward and across the path of the sewing to the left-hand side thereof, as shown in Fig. 9, then to travel rearward, as shown in Fig. 10, until the loop has been dropped and the point of the looper has receded out of the way of the needle, and then to turn upward and over the line of sewing at the rear side of the needle and again across the path of the sewing and move forward along the right-hand side of sad path, as shown in Fig. '7, to again take the loop. The mechanism for actuating the looper-rod D is such that the looper-rod is at all times positively moved and so moved that the looper will never interfere with the needle and will always positively and certainly take the loop at the proper point and then IIO drop the loop at the proper point, no matter how high a speed may be imparted to the machine.

YVhile the looper-rod D is being given its reciprocatory motion and its axial motion it also has a rocking motion by virtue of its connection with the power-shaft J by the means above described, and this rocking motion is permitted in the rod D, owing to the fact that the front portion of this rod is supported by and adapted to slide within the pivotallymounted sleeve L, (see Figs. 1 and 3,) which is secured by the pin M at the lower portion of the main forwardly-extending arm E. The sleeve L is free to have an axial or rocking motion upon the pin M, and hence said sleeve L will yield to the looper-rod D and permit the latter to have a rocking motion, as well as a reciprocating motion and an axial oscillation.

The looper E is probably more clearly illustrated in Figs. 7 to 11, inclusive, in which it will be seen that the looper has the forwardlyextending bent portion N and longitudinal portion 0, whose front end is formed with the forwardl y-proj ectin g arms P Q and shoulders R and S, the arms P Q forming between them the space T and the arm Q being shorter than the arm P, which extends forward beyond the arm Q and first takes the loop, as shown in Fig. 7. The outwardbent portion N of the looper E enables the looper to advance along the right-hand side of the line of sewing and then to turn, as upon the arc of a circle, to the left-hand side of the path of the sewing, and then to recede along said left-hand side, and then to turn, as upon the are of a circle, to the right-hand side of the line of sewing, and then to move forward, as before, along said side. The shoulders R S are at the base or inner end of the arms P Q, and these shoulders R S take the loop of the thread and hold it in its proper open position preparatory to the needle passing through the space T between said arms and through the loop then held by said arms. After the needle has passed through the-fabric and is about to recede therefrom the looper E moves forward along the right-hand side of the line of sewing, as shown in Fig. 7, and the point of the arm P passes through the loop of the thread, and thereupon the needle continues to recede from the fabric, and the looper passes onward along the right-hand side of the line of sewing until the thread is against the shoulders R S, as shown in Fig. 8, and thereupon the looper without releasing the thread makes its axial motion without ceasing its reciprocatory motion and carries the loop over to the left-hand side of the line of sewing and immediately thereafter starts to move rearward, while the needle at the same time again starts toward the fabric, and by the time the looper has carried the loop to a point where it is in line with the needle the latter passes through the space T of the looper and enters the loop, as shown in Fig. 10. The looper continues its rearward motion along the left-hand side of the line of' sewing and drops the loop by passing therefrom, as shown in Fig. 10, the looper continuing its substantially directly rearward motion until entirely clear of the needle, and thereupon it turns axially while continuing its reciprocatory motion, so that its arms P Q become turned over to the right to the position in which they are shown in Fig. 7, and thereupon the looper moves directly forward, as before, and takes the succeeding loop from the needle. The reciprocating motion and the oscillating motion of the looper E are due to its peculiar connection, hereinbefore described, with the power-shaft J and to the form of the looperitself, the bend N in the looperpermittingthe looperto travel along one side of the line of sewing, then to cross said line to the left, then to recede along the lefthand side of the line of sewing, and then to turn to the right-hand side of the line of sewing and move forward, as before, without any interruption in the reciprocatory motion of the looper. The rocking motion of the looperrod D, with the swiveled sleeve L, enables the looper while moving forward to pass over the upper side of the needle, so as to take the thread at the upper side of the needle, and then while turning from the right-hand side to the left-hand side of the line of sewing at the front of the needle to turn downward, so as to keep close to the fabric and preserve the properloop, and then to recede along the left hand side of the line of sewing close to the fabric, so that the needle may pass below the arm P of the looperand enter the loop. After the looper while receding at the left-hand side of the line of sewing has passed to the rear of the path of the needle the looper turns upward, so as to cross the line of sewing at a comparatively considerable elevation, so as not at all to interfere with the fabric then being fed toward the looper, and this comparatively considerable elevation which the looper then attains is due partly to'the bend in the looper itself, and also to the fact that at that particular time the oblique pin H, carried by the disk G, is commencing its descent and operates to turn the looper-rod downward to its rear end and upward to its front end, this rocking motion permitting the looper to ascend entirely clear of the fabric while crossing at the rear end of its stroke from the lefthand side to the right-hand side of the line of sewing. The front end of the looper dips downward, so as to take a loop from the needie during its forward movement at the righthand side of the line of sewing, this being partly owing to the axial or turning movement of the looper-rod during the first part of this forward movement and also partly owing to the rising of the pin H during the latter part of this forward movement of the said looper, and thereafter during the turning of the looper from the right-hand side to the left-hand side of the line of sewing the pin H, continuing to rise, approaches and passes a horizontal line extending transversely through the power-shaft J, so that the looper on its return orbackward stroke along the left-hand side of the line of sewing is caused by the upward movement of the rear end of the looper-rod to dip downward, thus permitting the needle as it advances to pass above the arm Q of the looper, but below the arm P thereof, so as to enter the loop of looper-thread, and this is accomplished by reason of the fact that the oblique pin H is then approaching its upper position at which it is in line with a vertical longitudinalplane through the shaft J, but of course pointing downward and outward at an angle to the longitudinal line through said shaft. Thus while the looper has a reciprocatory motion and an oscillatory motion it also is given the special peculiar motion just hereinabove described, by which, as specified, the looper dips downward while moving forward to take the loop and dips downward while receding to permit the needle to enter the loop and has a comparatively high elevation while turning at its rear position from the left-hand to the right-hand side of the line of sewing. Under the conditions named the looper is enabled to operate at a very high speed and always with certainty and without conflicting with the needle or with the fabric.

The forwardly-projecting portion 0 of the looper E is deflected slightly toward the right, as illustrated in Figs. 9 and 10, and while said portion 0 of the looper is moving forward at the right-hand side of the line of sewing the side of the looper faces nearly directly upward, and while said looper is receding at the left-hand side of the line of sewing the sides of said portion 0 are nearly vertical, so as to present the space T directly to the point of the needle 1'. The space T of the looper is thus during the forward motion of the looper at the right-hand side of the line of sewing substantially vertical, but during the receding motion of the looper at the lefthand side of the line of sewing said space T is substantially horizontal. The point of the looper is thus rendered capable of very easily taking the thread from the needle while said looper is traveling forward at the right-hand side of the line of sewing and of presenting the loop to the needle in the most satisfactory manner while traveling rearward at the lefthand side of the line of sewing.

The operation of the various parts of the machine has been described hereinbefore and a further detailed description of the same would seem to be unnecessary. The work performed by the machine is clearly illustrated in Figs. 7 to 10, inclusive, and in Fig. 13, in the latter of which it will be observed that the stitches overseam the edge of the folded portion of the fabric, and hence prevent any raveling of the fabric and, in addition, finish the seam in a very desirable and secure manner. The sewing is performed by what is termed blind-stitching, and hence while the stitches are apparent on the reverse side of the fabric they are not discernible on the obverse side thereof. The machine will perform the same character of stitching whether the stitches are applied along the edge of the folded portion of the fabric, as shown in Fig. 18, or intermediate said edge and the fold in the fabric; but I prefer to apply the stitches to the edge of the folded portion of the fabric in order at one operation to finish said edge in the manner illustrated in Fig. 13.

As a general statement of the operation of the machine it may be said that the feed mechanism, the needle mechanism, and the looper mechanism all receive their motion from the power-shaft J, which will be actuated by any suitable means. The motion of the power-shaft J is communicated to the feed-shaft M through the medium of the eccentric X on said power-shaft, the pivoted lever Y at its upperend engaging said eccentrio, as shown in Figs. 1 and 6, and at its lower end connected with the pitman-rod Z, as shown in Fig. 3, the clutch-lever arm a, secured to the front end of the pitman-rod Z and hung loosely from the end of the shaft M, and the dogs I) b, engaged by said arm a and engaging the rim of the clutch-wheel W, secured upon the left-hand end of the shaft M. The shaft M has an intermittent motion imparted to it and communicates this motion to the feed-cylinder O. The needle-shaft t imparts an oscillating motion to the needle r and has imparted to it a rocking motion from the power-shaft J through the medium of the eccentric so on the power-shaft J, the eccentrio-rod z, actuated from said eccentricacand the crank B, one end of which is secured upon said shaft 25 and the other end of which is connected with said eccentric-rod z. The looper-rod D receives its motion from the power-shaft J through the medium of the inclined arm G, secured upon the end of said power-shaft, the pin I-I, carried by said arm G, the swiveled sleeve I, mounted upon said pin 11, and the yoke J, connecting said looper-rod D with said sleeve I. The presserfoot P is stationary, and the feed-cylinder O exerts a yielding upward pressure against said prcsser-foot. The plate or front section I of the machine carrying the feed-cylinder O is secured in a hinged manner to the upper end of the main-frame arm F and is held in its normal upward position by the spring Q. By pressure applied downward upon the handle or extension N of the plate'or section I the feed-cylinder 0 may be moved downward free of the presser-foot P whenever desired.

That I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a feeding mechanism, of a needle arranged to reciprocate horizontally or approximately so, and transversely to the line of feed, mechanism for operating said needle, a looperrod provided with a looper located above the work-support and presser-foot and cooperating with said needle and the acting portion of which looper is eccentric to the longitudinal axis of said looper-rod, and mechanism for operating said looper-rod to cause the same to have a forward longitudinal movement to carry the looper forward above the work at one side of thelineof stitches to take a -loop from the needle above the work, then an axial or rocking movement to carry the looper across the line of stitches to the other side thereof, and then a longitudinal receding or rearward movement above the work to enable the looper to present the loop to the neodle, and then a second axial or rocking movement to carry the looper again across the line of stitches to its first position, from which it may again move forward to take another loop, substantially as set forth.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a feeding mechanism, of a needle arranged to reciprocate horizontally or approximately so, and transversely to the line of feed, mechanism for operating said needle, a looper-rod provided with a looper located above the work-support and presser-foot and cooperating with said needle and the acting portion of which looper is eccentric to the longitudinal axis of said looper-rod, and mechanism for operating said looper-rod to cause it to have a forward and down wardlydipping movement above the work at one side of the line of stitches to take a loop at the upper side of the needle above the work, then an axial or rocking movement over and across the line of stitches to the other side thereof, then a rearward and downwardly-dipping movement to present the looper-loop to the needle close to the fabric, and then a second axial or rocking movement above the fabric and across the line of stitches to its first position, substantially as set forth.

3. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a feeding mechanism, of a needle arranged to reciprocate in a substantially horizontal plane and transversely to the line of feed, mechanism for operating said needle, a looper-rod provided with alooper cooperating with said needle, and an eccentric rotating device having a double-joint connection with the rear end of said looper-rod, whereby the looper will be caused to have a forward movement at one side of the line of stitches to take a loop from the needle, then an axial or rocking movement across the line of stitches, then a receding or rearward movement to present the loop to the needle and then a second or axial or rocking movement across the line of stitches to its first position, substantially as set forth.

4. In a sewing-machine, the reciprocatory needle, the looper, and feed mechanism, combined with means for actuating the needle and feed mechanism, the rod carrying the looper, the swiveled bearing through which the looper-rod passes, the arm G revoluble the looper forward along one side of the line of sewing to take the loop from the needle, then axially across to the other side of the line of sewing, then rearward to present the loop to the needle, and then across the line of sewing in rear of the needle to its first position; substantially as set forth.

6. In a sewingmachine, the reciprocatory needle passing transversely to the path of the line of feed, feed mechanism, and means for actuating the needle and feed mechanism,

combined with the looper-rod, the looper carried thereby and having the laterally-turned portion N, forwardly-projecting portion 0, arms P, Q, and shoulders R, S, and means for moving the looper forward and downward along one side of the line of sewing to take the loop from the needle, then axially across to the other side of the line of sewing, then. rearwardly and downwardly to present the loop to the needle close to the fabric, and

then upwardly and across the line of sewing,

in rear of the needle, to its first position; substantially as set forth.

7. In a sewing-machine, the needle passing transversely to the line of feed, the looper, and means for actuating the needle and looper, combined with the revoluble feedcylinder, and means for imparting to said cylinder an intermittent motion, said feedcylinder having the serrated portion *5, annular shoulder j, grooved portion 7a and regular surface h; substantially as set forth.

8. In a sewing-machine, the needle passing transversely to the line of feed, the looper, and means for actuating the needle and looper, combined with the revoluble feedcylinder, and means for imparting to said cylinder an intermittent motion, said feedcylinder having the serrated portion 2', annular shoulder j, grooved portion 70, regular surface 7t, and outwardly-tapering portion g; substantially as set forth.

9. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a needle reciprocating horizontally, or approximately so, and above the work, a looper reciprocating longitudinally substantially in the line of the feed of the work and the acting portion of which moves from side to side of the line of stitches above the work, of a presser-foot located beneath the said looper and having an opening (1 and'a grooved portion in in front of said opening, a feed= cylinder having a serrated portion 2 and an annular rib or shoulder j, the latter being adapted to press the fabric into the said grooved portion of the said foot and thus form a bend in the fabric and means for imparting an intermittent rotary motion to said feed-cylinder; whereby stitches may be formed through the bend in the fabric formed by the said grooved presser-foot and said annular rib of said feed-Wheel.

10. In a sewing-machine, the main frame A having the base B, upwardly-extending rear and front arms 0, F, and forwardly-extending side arm E, and the power-shaft jonrnaled at the upper end of said arm 0, combined with the shaft H jonrnaled in the upper end of the arm F, the plate or section I secured upon said shaft 11 and having the handpiece N, the shaft M carried by said plate or section I, the revoluble feed-cylinder carried at one end of said shaft M, the clutch-Wheel carried at the other end for said shaft M, means for actuating said clutch-wheel from the power-shaft, the spring for retaining said plate or section I normally in its upper position, the horizontal needle-shaft and its nee dle supported from said arm E, the looperrod and its looper, means for imparting motion to said needle-shaft and looper-rod from the power-shaft, and the rigid presser-foot carried by said arm E; substantially as set forth.

11. In a sewing-machine, the reciprocating needle passing transversely to the line of feed, a presser-foot, a feed mechanism, and means for actuating the needle and feed mechanism, combined with the looper-rod, the looper carried by said rod and arranged above the worksupport and presser-foot and having the laterally-turned portion and forwardly-projecting and slightly laterally deflected portion, and means for moving the looper forward along one side of the line of sewing above the work, to take the loop from the needle and with the side face of the front end of the looper tn rned substantially upward, then axially across to the other side of the line of sewing' above the Work, then rearwardly to present the loop to the needle, and then across the line of sewing, in rear of the needle, to its first position, substantially as set forth.

12. In a sewing-machine, the main frame A having the base B, upwardly-extending rear and front arms 0, F, and forwardly-extending side arm E, the power-shaft journaled at the upper end of said arm 0, and the substantially horizontal front plate or section I hinged at the upper end of the front arm F, combined with the horizontal feed-shaftcarried by said plate or section I, means for imparting an interinittent'motion from said power-shaft to said feed-shaft, the revoluble feed-cylinder carried at the end of said feedshaft, the rigid presser-foot to cooperate with the said feed-cylinder, the horizontal and longitudinally -disposed needle shaft with its needle, means for imparting a rocking motion to said needle-shaft from the power-shaft, the looper-rod carrying the looper and disposed below said needle-shaft, and means for imparting to said looper-rod a reciprocating motion, a rocking motion and an axial motion from the power shaft; substantially as set forth.

Signed at New York, in the county of New.

CHARLES A. DEARBORN. I

WVitnesses: CHAS. O. GILL,

E. J os. BELKNAP.

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