US617227A - Sewing and plaiting machine - Google Patents

Description

No. 6l7,227. Patented Jan. 3, I899.

- G. H. W. CURTIS.

SEWING AND PLAITING MACHINE.

(implication filed Oct. 6, 1897.) (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Shaet l.

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Inunmmnm gm 2 a WITNESS.

Noams PETERS co. PHOYOLITHO wnsmnoron n c No. 617,227. Patented Jan. 3, I899. G. H. W. CURTIS.

SEWING AND PLAIT ING MACHINE.

(Application filed Oct. 6, 1897.) (No Model.) I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

WITNESS: MNVENTOR; l jbr l/gi 7 i, 1 M

GEORGE H. \V. CURTIS, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF NEW JERSEY.

S EWING AND PLAITING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 617,227, dated January 3, 1899.

Application filed October 6, 1897. $erial No. 654,211. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE H. W. CURTIS, a citizen of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing and Plaiting Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

The object of my invention is to provide a sewing-machine with a comparatively simple mechanism for producing either right .or left hand side or knife plaiting or single or double boX-plaiting at the will of the operator and with simple adjustments or changes, my improved mechanism being of such construc tion that in making boX-plaiting the folds will always be evenly laid, so that the liability of imperfect work, which sometimes occurs in the use of similar machines heretofore c011- structed,will be entirely avoided.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a front side View of a Singer single-thread chain-stitch machine equipped with my improved plaiting device, and Fig. 2 is a partial end view of the same. Fig. 3 is apartial plan View of the lower part of the machine, and Fig. 4 a bottom view with the feeding mechanism omitted to show the plaitin g mechanism beneath the work-plate. Figs. 5 and 6 are detail sectional views of the reciprocating carriage and connected parts. Fig. 7 is a detail View of the cam and ratchet wheels, and Fig. 8 is a similar view showing a modifled form of cam. Fig. 9 is a plan View of the presser-foot, and Fig. 10 a vertical section thereof on line 10 10 of Fig. 9. Fig. 11 is a detail View to show the beveled contact parts of the pin 6 and the lever f, and Fig. 12 is a detail view showing the means for adjusting the pressure of the jaw 6 The stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms of the sewing-machine shown are of wellknown construction and need not therefore be herein described.

The driving-shaft B, carrying at its forward end the rotating looper b, is provided with a bevel-gear b, meshing with a larger bevelgear W, with which latter is connected an eccentric c, surrounded by the strap of a pitman a, one end of which is adjustably connected to a plaiter-operating lever d, pivoted at d to a plate a, attached to the frame A of the machine. The lever cl, consisting, as shown, of a single rigid piece of metal with offset parts, is forked at its forward end to embrace a reduced or neck portion d of a slide-block, the lower part 01 of which reciprocates on a fixed guide-rod (1, supported beneath the work-plate A, and the upper part d of which works in a slot (0' in said work-plate.

E is a reciprocating plate or carriage pivotally connected with the upper part 61 of the slide-block, so as to reciprocate therewith and so as to be adapted to have a slight rocking or tilting motion thereon in making boX-plaiting. This pivotal connection of the plate or carriage E with the said slide-block is effected by a small bar a, screwed or otherwise attached to the under side of said plate or carriage and provided with a cylindrical portion 6, fitting in a round hole in said slide-block. The carriage E carries the plaitin g blades or jaws e e between which the strip or strips of fabric to be plaited pass. The lower blade or jaw e is formed integral with or attached to the carriage E, while the upper blade or jaw e is preferably attached to a bar 6 secured to but slightly separated from the said plate or carriage E to permit the material to pass between them, said bar 6 havinga guideslot 6 for one strip of material when two strips are being embodied in the plaiting, the other or main strip being guided by the laterally-adjustable edge-guides e carried by the bars 6 held in any desired position of adjustment by the set-screw a The upper blade 6 which is of spring metal, is held in yielding contact with the lower blade 6 by a small thumb-nut e on a threaded stud e and which may be turned down more or less to vary the pressure of the upper blade against the lower one, as is desirable with different kinds of materials, heavy goods requiring more pressure than light goods.

The carriage E has a tailpiece e provided with a downwardly-projecting pin e extending through a slot a in the work-plate, so as to be engaged at times by a lever f, pivoted at f and having a rounded projection f held in contact with a star or cam Wheel g by a spring f The cam-wheel g is rigidly secured to or formed integral with a ratchetwheel g, and both of said wheels turn on the shank of a screw 9 fixed to the work-plate.

G is a swinging plate or pawl-carrier provided with a pawl 9 engaging the ratchetwheel 9 said pawl-carrier being jointed to the free end of a lever 9 pivoted at g to the plate a and connected by a link g and screw g to the pitman c. A spring 9 bearing against the cam-wheel, is preferably employed to hold said wheel stationary at propertimes or to prevent said wheel from overthrowing when rotated by the pawl g The upper part d of the slide-block is recessed for the reception of a coil-spring g which presses upward against the lower surface of the carriage E forward of the pivotal connection of the latter with said slide-block, said spring thus serving to hold the pin e down in the slot a so that the lower end of said pin, extending through said slot, may be engaged by the lever f at times to tilt the forward part of the carriage E and the plaiting jaws or blades 6 c downward in opposition to the stress of the said spring 9 The camwheel g is so rotated byits connected ratchetwheel that during the time required for one forward-and-backward movement of the carriage E the projection f on the lever f may rest in a recess between two teeth or arms of the star or cam wheel g, thus uncovering the slot ta so that the pin a will project down through the same and permit the carriage to reciprocate, with the plaiting blades or jaws c e lifted from the work-plate. At the next forward-and-backward movement of said carriage the lever f will be forced outward'or to the left by one of the teeth or arms of the star or cam wheel covering the slot a and raising the pin 6 and thereby tilting the forward side of the carriage E and the plaiting blades or jaws downward close to the work-plate in opposition to the stress of the spring g one or both of the contiguous parts of the lever fand the pin e being properly rounded or beveled off to permit the former to slide easily beneath the latter. Thus in making box-plaiting the material is folded alternately up and down by the alternately raised and lowered plaiting blades or jaws, the movements of the parts being preferably so timed that the change of the plaiting blades or jaws from their raised to their lowered position, or vice versa, occurs during the time when the said blades or jaws are performing their backward movements, so as to fold the material over or under properly.

To change the machine from box-plaiting to plain or knife plaiting, in which all of the folds of the material are laid one way, it is only necessary to remove the screw g which connects the link 9 with the pitman c, and the operation of the pawl-and-ratchet mechanism, and consequently the rotation of the star or cam wheel will then be suspended,

with the plaiting blades or jaws either in a raised or lowered position, according as it may be desired to make the folds of the ma terial upward or downward in making either right-hand or left-hand knife or plain plaiting.

The throw of the carriage E and of the plaiting blades or jaws to make plaits of different widths is varied by changing the point of connection of the pitman c with the plaiter-opcrating lever d by means of the curved slot d in said lever and in which the end of the said pitman is secured in any desired position of adjustment by means of a swivel-block, threaded pin, and set-nut of ordinary construction. Owing to the curvature of the slot d the plaiting blades or jaws in making throws of different lengths will always move forward to the same point up close to the needle, the backward movements only in making wider plaits being increased. g

The presser-foot I is provided with a wide upwardly-curved toe portion '5, adj ustably secured to said presser-foot by means of a false foot 2', extending beneath the foot I and having a rib 2' fitting in a slot i in the bottom of the said foot I. A set-screw tflpassing through the slot and tapped in the rib 1?, holds the foot 2" in any desired position of adjustment, the said foot 1" being provided with a needleslot of a length equal to the length of its adjustment. Thus when theplaiting blades or jaws have a long throw in forming wide plaits the too i will be adjusted forward toward the said blades or jaws, so that the latter will meet said toe earlier in their plaiting movements than they otherwise would to properly fold the material, but in making narrow plaits or folds the said toe will be adjusted to a position nearer to the needle.

When the plaiting-blades move forward in their lowered position, they have atendency to shove the entire material forward rather than to fold the material held in their grasp smoothly under the material in advance, so that imperfect work frequently results, owing to the fact that the material is not properly held up, so that the plaiting-blades in making the lower folds will always pass beneath the material in advance, but will sometimes shove the material forward more or less, and thus fail to make a perfect fold or to make any fold at all. To obviate this difficulty and thereby absolutely insure perfect work either in making box-plaiting or in making plain or knife plaiting by folding the material under by reciprocating the plaiting-blades in a lowered position, I have provided a yielding work-lifter or lower presser, which is located in front of the needle and in the line of movement of the plaiting-blades and which will thus hold the work up in front of said blades, so that as the latter move forward in their lowered position they will fold the new material which they are carrying forward beneath the material in advance, and thus insure an even and smooth fold. This yielding worklifter in the form of my invention herein shown consists of a pivoted dog 70, sustained by a support beneath the work-plate and extending up through a slot a in said plate, said dog or work-lifter being forced yieldingly upward by a small coil-spring k placed beneath it on said support, the latter being provided with a slotted arm by means of which and a setscrew 712 said support is adjustabl y secured to the said work-plate. The said work-lifter may thus be secured in different positions of adjustment, as is desirable in making plaits of different widths, said worklifterbeing preferably so adjusted as to be but a slight distance in front of the blades when the latter are in their extreme backward position.

In the operation of the machine the strip of material to be plaited is led forward between the edge-guides e beneath the bar c and between the plaiting blades or jaws e c to the needle. If a second or difierently-colored strip is to be employed, it is led through the guide-slot e and between the plaitingblades with the first strip to the needle, and both strips are plaited or folded together. In

making boX-plaiting the plaiting-blades perform their alternate reciprocations in raised and lowered positions, the work being held up by the yielding work-lifter 7c in front of the plaiting-blades when said blades are moving forward in a lowered position, and as said blades continue their forward movement they depress said work-lifter out of the way and the fold is closely and evenly laid. Thus the said lifter offers no impediment to the proper operation of the blades as the latter complete the fold.

In the machine herein shown the gears I) b are are so proportioned that the plaitingblades perform one reciprocation while the needle is making two stitches; but these relative movements of the needle and plaitingblades may be varied as may be desired, and the character of the work may also be changed by rotating the cam-wheel g faster or slower than has been described or by changing the shape thereof. Thus bysubstituting the camwheel 9 having three projections, for the cam-wheel 9 what is known as double boxplaiting will be produced.

Having thus described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent I 1. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of plaiting jaws or blades, means for reciprocating said jaws or blades, and a normally stationary but yielding work-lifter supported by the work-plate below the said jaws or blades and in the line of their movement.

2. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of plaiting blades or jaws, means for reciprocating and for raising and lowering said blades or jaws, a yielding work-lifter arranged below said blades or jaws and in the line of their movement, and means for varying the throw of said blades or jaws and also for changing the position of adjustment of said work-lifter.

3. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the, combination with'stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of plaiting blades or jaws, means for reciprocating the same and for varying their throw, a normally stationary but yielding work-lifter below said blades, anda presser-foot provided with a false foot or sole portion which is adjustable in the line of the movement of the said blades or jaws.

4. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of reciprocating blades or jaws, a carriage on which said blades or jaws are mounted, a slide-block for operating said carriage and to which slide-block said can riage is pivotally attached, so that said carriage may rock or tilt, a rotary eccentric, and a lever operatively connected with said eccentric and serving to reciprocate said slide-block and carriage. v

5. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms,of a pair of reciprocating plaiting blades or jaws, a carriage on which said blades or jaws are mounted, a slide-block to which said carriage is pivotally attached so that said carriage. is free to rock or tilt, a rotating eccentric, and a lever operatively connected with said eccentric and serving to reciprocate said slide-block and carriage, said lever having an arm provided with a curved slot and to which slotted arm the operating connection is adj ustably attached.

6. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a reciprocating carriage E provided with a pair of plaiting-blades, a slide-block on which said carriage is pivotally mounted, the lever 01 for reciprocating said' slide-block, the eccentric c geared to the driving-shaft of the machine, and the pitman 0 connecting said eccentric with said lever.

7. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a pair of reciprocating blades or jaws in yielding contact with each other, a carriage to which said blades or jaws are attached, a slide-block on which said carriage is pivotally mounted, a guide-rod, as 01 for said slide-block, the lever cl engaging a re duced portion of said slide-block, the rotating eccentric c, and the pitman 0 connecting said eccentric with said lever.

8. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of the reciprocating carriage E provided with a pair of plaiting-blades, a slide-block on which said carriage is pivotally mounted, the lever d for reciprocating said slide-block, the eccentric c geared to the driving-shaft of the machine and the pitman 0 connecting said eccentric with said lever, the

latter having a slotted arm to enable the conneetion of said pitman to be varied to change the throw of said plaiting-blades.

9. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with a pair of reciprocating and pivotally mounted plaitingblades adapted to rock or tilt and to be moved back and forth, of a lever, as d, for reciprocating said blades, a tilting device, as lever f, for rocking or oscillating said blades, an eccentric,' as c, operatively connected with said operatinglever and with said blade-tilting device, and means for disconnecting the tilting mechanism from said eccentric when plain or knife plaiting is to be done.

10. In a sewing and plaiting machine, the combination with the pivoted carriage E provided with the pin 6 and carrying a pair of plaiting-blades, a slide-block for reciprocating said carriage, the lever d for operating said slide-block, the eccentric c geared to the driving-shaft of the machine, the pitman 0 connecting said eccentric with said lever, the spring-pressed lever f arranged to engage the said pin e a camwheel, as g, for operating said lever f, a ratchet-Wheel to rotate said cam-wheel, a pawl-carrier and pawl to operate said ratchet-wheel the lever 9 and the link 9 and screw g connecting said lever g with the said pitman, and a spring 9 for tilting the pivoted carriage in opposition to the movements imparted thereto by the said lever f acting on the said pin 6 In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

GEORGE H. WQCURTIS.

Witnesses:

HENRY J. MILLER, HENRY OALVER.

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