US608152A - dimond - Google Patents

Description

No. 608,152. Patented July 26, i898.

c.. H. mMoNn & w. F. DIAL.

HEMSTITCH 0R PEN WRK SEWING MACHlNE.

(Application filed Sept. 16, 1897.) (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet I,

muil QN l @www -wmw i mmm" IH No. 608,52. 'Patented my 26, |898.

G. H. DlMUND'. W. F. DlAL. HEMSTITGH 0R UPEN WORK SEWING MACHINE.

(Appxiwion med sept. 16, 1897.) Y* A (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2..

GEORGE II. DIMOND AND VILBUR F. DIAL, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNORS TO TI-IE WHEELER du WILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

OF SAME PLACE.

HEIVISTITCH OR OPEN-WORK SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 608,152, dated July 26, 1898. Application led September 16, 1897. Serial No. 651,825.l (No model.)

To all whom t may con/007%.-

Be it known that we, GEORGE H.A DIMOND and WILBUR F. DIAL, of Bridgeport, county of Fairfield, State of Connecticut, have invented an Improvement in I-Iemstitch or Opcn-Vork Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and figures on the drawings representing like 1o parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel machine for so-called hemstitch7 or open work stitching, stitching such as employed in connection with hems of pocket-handkerchiefs, sheets, pillowcases, dac. l

The machine to be herein described employs a needle-bar having an eye-pointed needle, and said needle-bar, besides its usual 2o reciprocating motion, is vibrated laterally. Let it be supposed that the needle has just risen from the material of one thickness outside the edge of the hem and that a new stitch is to be made. To do this, the material z 5 Vwill be fed for one stitch, and the needle-bar will then descend and again penetrate the material of single thickness outside the hem in the line of the seam, and then it `will again rise, be moved laterally, and descend 3o through the hem near its edge, and then will again rise, be moved laterally, and descend again in the material of one thickness outside the hem, it entering again the same hole from which it arose, these three operations completing a stitch. 4During the last three penetrations of the needle described the material remains stationary; but as the needle rises after this third descent the feed is again operated to move `the material forward 4o for one stitch; but while the feed is taking place the needle is not vibrated, and consequently at its next descent it penetrates again the material of single thickness outside the edge ofthe hem, repeating the described stitch. f a a In the class of Work wherein a series of openings are to appear in the single thickness of material parallel with the edge of the hem such openings have heretofore been 5o made by feeding the material while the needle stood in it, thus enabling the needle to hold back some of the threads of the material and leave a somewhat elongated opening, and so also the needle when in the material of single thickness has been vibrated laterally to enlarge the hole in which it stood, and in both these instances the feed of the material has been two stitches forward and one backward; and so, also, a needle-bar and needle having a vertical motion and a lateral motion when out of the goods has had coperating withit a spreader longer than the needle, vsaid spreader always deseendin g with the needle, and when the needle descended through the material of .single thickness the spreader passed through the material in advance of the point of the descending needle; but when the needle descended in the edge of the hem said spreader did not follow it, but stood in such relation to the needle that a line intersecting the needle and spreader would cross the edge of the hem at substantially a right angle.

In the plan last above referred to the spreader is so connected with its bar that it must always descend in just the same position relatively to the edge of the hem and needle, and no provision is made for varying the position of the spreader to provide for changes in the vibration of the needle and its bar, as required by the particular material being acted upon.

In this our invention we employ a needlebar and needleV and impart both verticaland lateral motions to the needle, the lateral motion being, however, when out of the material, and we have combined with this needle-bar a piercer-carrying bar which is moved vertically in unison with it, said bar having at its lower end an adjustable arm provided at its free end withV a straight but pointed piercer, the point of the piercer being of such length as to penetrate the materialof single thickness only after the needle has entered the material, andl saidshorter piercer always enters the material of single thickness at that side of the needle next the operator, so that said piercer makes and opensahole for the needle in the direction of the length of the seam, the said piercer defining a hole in advance of the hole in which the needle enters in making the stitch.

In this our invention We may adjust the piercer with relation to the needle in the direction of the length of the seam, and it may also be adjusted to occupy a position closer to or farther from the edge of the hem, according to the lateral throw of the needle, or, in other words, the piercer may be adjusted freely in any direction with relation to the point of the needle.

In this our invention the feed takes place only once for each three penetrations of the needle, and the feed is only in the forward direction, this plan of feeding eifectually doing away with the shocks due to reversing the feed at high speed and the liability of missing threads in the backstitch, the missing of threads being due to the failure of the feed to accurately move the material backwardly to enable the needle to enter a previouslymade hole, the missing of threads seriously marring the symmetry, uniformity, and appearance of the openings at the edge of the hem, and dispensing with the back feed also does away with any puckering of the overturned part of the hem on its body, and, further, because of the feed being always in one direction the operator may guide and handle the work with the greatest ease, whereas when the back-stroke feed is used the operator has to adjust the movements of her hands and eyes rapidly to the backward and forward movements of the material, which is very wearing. So, also, by reason of the fact that the piercer and needle occupy tandem position, one in advance of the other, in the direction of the length of the seam, the tendency of the material to be thrown out of proper straight-line movement is practically done away with.

Figure 1 shows a front side elevation of the machine embodying our invention. Fig. 2 is an enlarged section taken below the dotted line x, Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a face view of the cam for controlling the direction of movement of the feed device.` Fig. 4 shows the feed-barlifting cam. Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail showing parts iof the needle-bar and needle and piercer-carrying bar, its arm and attached piercer. Fig. Gis a diagram delineating the stitch to be lnade.

The bed A, the overhanging arm A', containing the needle-bar-operating crank-shaft A2, having at its forward end a cam-hub A3 for operating the take-up A4, the needle-bar gate B, containing the needle-barB, provided with an eye-pointed needle b and reciprocated by the link A5, said gate being pivotally mounted on usual vertical trnnnions or pivots and having connected to it a link B3, adjustably connected by a stud B4 in a slot B5 of a rocking arm BG of a shaft B2, which is vibrated at suitabletimes by or from a suitable cam C, mounted in a stud CX, said arm having a roller-stud t, entering the cam-slot the presser-foot bar b2, having, as herein a suitable crank, which in its rotations will actuate any usual or suitable circularly-moving loop-taker, (not shown,) said shaft having a pinion D5, which engages a toothed gear DG on a short shaft D7, having at its front end a feed-lifting cam D8, (shown separately in Fig. 4,) which at the proper time moves the feeddog, raising and lowering rock-shaft D10, it having a space to let the usual feed-dog b5 drop and be moved back under the work preparatory to being again lifted to feed the material when the feed is to again take place, and the rock-shaft E, having an arm EX, to which one end of the feed-dog is pivotally connected, said rock-shaft having a second arm connected with afeed-regulatinglink E', having a roller or other stud entering a segmental groove E2 in an arm projected from one end of a shaft E3, said shaft having a second arm E4, provided with a pin E5, having a roller or other stud to enter the cam-groove E6 in the toothed wheel D, said cam-groove determining the time of the forward feed with relation to the number of stitches made by the needle, are and may be all substantially as now employed in the Wheeler da Wilson sewing-machines andas represented in United States Patent No. 479,739, dated July 23, 1892, and in application, Serial No. 448,193, filed October 8, 1892, with the exception of slight differences in shape of the cam-groove in the toothed wheel D6 and of the shape of the cam C, to be described, or, in other words, in the shape of the particular cam-paths of the cams employed for vibrating the needle-bar gate and for determining the forward direction of the feed with relation to a predetermined number of stitches.

The cam C, as represented best in Fig. l, is so made that it is rotated once to each three complete rotations of the needle-bar-actuating shaft, and supposing that the needle-bar IOO IIO

is elevated and that said cam occupies such position as to enable the needle to stand above the material at one side of the edge of the heml the operation will be as follows, viz: The feed will take place, the needle-bar will descend through the material of one thickness near the edge of the heln, and then it will rise and the needle-bar will be moved laterally, so that at its next descent it will pass through the hem near its edge, and rising from the said hem the needle-bar will be again moved laterally, it descending a second time in the same hole in the material of single thickness from which it arose prior to enteringthe hem near its edge. The second descent of the needle in this same hole in the material of single thickness enables two stitches to be made in the same hole, and after this the feed again take place and a stitch is next made in the next hole in the direction of the length of the seam. Said last stitch,when tightened in the thin part of the material, tends to draw together the material of the thin part between the two distinct holes in theline of the seam, such drawing taut of the stitch enlarging and defining with accuracy the holes to be made parallel with the edge of the hem,'the tightening of the stitches effectually tying the parts in position. Cooperating with this needle-bar and needle we have provided the inner side of the face-plate of the machine with two lugs 118, which we have bored to constitute bearings for, as herein shown, a round bar G, which we designato the piercer-bar. The upper end of Athis bar has adj ustably secured .to it by a set-screw G a collar G2, having a stud g, the said stud entering loosely a hole made transversely through the upper end of the needle-bar, said needle-bar thus reciprocating thebar G in unison with it.

The lower end of the bar G has adj ustably secured to it by a clamp-screw g a block G3, the said block being preferably grooved at its front side for the reception of the adj ustable,

piercer-carryin g arm G, provided at its inner end with the piercer g3, said block being adj ustable horizontally to provide for any change in lateral throw of the needle-bar to thereby bring it nearer to or farther from the edge of the hem by or through the same clamp-screw g,and the piercer may also be adjustable vertically in its arm by means of a set-screw g4, and by loosening the set-screw G in the collar G2 the said bar G may be turned in said collar to thus move the piercer somewhat toward or from the side of the needle toward the operator, such adjustment placing the piercer more or less distant from the side of the needle next the operator.

The needle-bar B has connected to it by screw 30 ablock 31,which carries a stud which is embraced by the lower end of the link A5, which is employed to reciprocate the needlebar. This screw 30 may be loosenedin case of any wear between the stud g and the hole in the upper end of said bar, and the said bar may be slightly turned in the said collar 3l, which willcause both sides of the hole in said needle-bar to come in contact with the saidV stud,thus compen satiugfor any looseness due to wear.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the piercer has only a vertical movement, that it always occupies a position between the line of vertical movement of the needle through the material of single thickness and the operator, and that it always penetrates the maferial of single thickness a stitch in advance of the point where the needle penetrates the material to make a stitch, so that said piercer makes and defines at least a stitch in advance the hole to be entered by the needle, and it will also be noticed that the piercer enters twice the same hole made by it, just as the needle, as before stated, enters twice the saine hole when making the stitch before described.

By connecting the needle-bar and the piercer-carrying bar by means of a collar having a stud the said stud is enabled to perform two functions-viz., one to cause the piercer-bar to rise and fall in unison with the needle-bar and` yet permit the needle-bar to be vibrated with the gate, and at the same time the piercer-bar is kept from rotation, yet it may when occasion requires be turned axially in the said collar to position the piercer with relation to the needle,which could not be done if the piercer-carrying bar were square and were reciprocated in a box-like groove.

The cam C is engaged by a Jtoothed gear C on a stud C2, extended from the plate B8, attached to theoverhangin g arm A by suitable set-screws B9, said plate being partially broken away in Fig. l.

The toothed gear C2 has fixed to it a bevelgear B6, which is engaged and rotated by a bevel-gear B10, fast on shaft A2.

Referring to Fig. G, let n represent a piece of material having a hem n' laid over upon it, the line n2 representing the edge of the hem. We will describe the method of making one complete three-stitch figure. Let it be supposed that the needle has just risen fromthe material of one thickness outside the edge of the hem. Now the iirststep is to feed the material in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 6, and the needle will then descend, the needle penetrating the material off the hem at the point n3. Then the needle will rise, the gate will be moved laterally, and the needle will penetrate the material of the hem at the point n4, and then the needle will IOO again rise from the material'and the needlebar gate will be moved in the opposite direction, again putting the needle in exactly the same position that it stood inwhen it made the penetration designated n3, the needle again descending through the same hole n3.

In each of these descents a suitable under thread will lock the loop of needle-thread, and having risen a second time from the hole n34 the three-stitch figure will be` completed and the material will be again fed, the needle next descending at the point a5 in the material of single thickness offthe hem. To better illustrate thisA stitch, Fig. 6, we have slightly separated the needle-thread between the points n3 and n4, so as to show two lines IIO of thread; but in practice these two lines of y gate to contain said needlebar means tomove said gate laterally transverse to the feed movement of the material; means to movesaid needle-bar vertically in said gate; a piercercarrying bar located at one side of said needle-bar in the direction of the lateral movement of said bar, an arm connected to said bar and projecting therefrom in a line trans- Verse to the direction of the feed movement, a piercer attached to said arm, xed guides for said piercer-carrying'bar; and means to reciprocate said piercer-carryin g bar and said needle-bar in unison, said piercer making an opening in the material in advance of the needle in the line of the seam, substantially as described. Y.

2. A needle-bar having an eye-pointed needle; a needle-bar gate; means to hold said needle-bar gate in position to enable the needle to descend in the material off the hem, and then to move said gate to enable the needle to descend through the material of the hem, and then to move said gate to enable the needle to again enter the material off the liem in the same hole previously made by the needle; feeding mechanism to feed the material for one stitch only in the direction of the length of the seam between the two descents of the needle in the samevertical plane; a piercercarrying bar, an arm extended therefromhorizontally transverse to the feed, and adjustably connected to said piercer-carrying bar, a piercer attached to said arm, and means to reciprocate said piercer-carrying bar and said needle-bar in unison, said piercer making an opening in the material in advance of the needle in the direction of the length of the seam for the reception of the needle in making a succeeding stitch, substantially as described.

3. In asewing-machine, ahead having fixed bearin gs apiercer-carrying bar litted to slide in said bearings, a piercer, a horizontally-extended arm to which said piercer is attached, and means to connect said arm adjustably with said piercer-carrying bar, whereby the arm and piercer may be adjusted not only transversely but axially on said piercer-carrying bar, to thereby control the exact relative positions between the said piercer and needle when penetrating the material off the hem, substantially as described.

4. In a sewing-machine, aneedle-bar gate, means to move it laterally, aneedle-bar therein having a needle; means to reciprocate said needle-bar, a piercer-carryin g bar movable in bearings connected with the head of the machine, a piercer, a horizontally-extended arm to which said piercer is attached, and means to connect said arm adjustably withk said piercer-carrying bar, whereby the arm and piercer may be adjusted not only transversely but axially on said piercer-carrying bar, to thereby control the exact relative positions between the said piercer and needle when penetrating the material off the hem, substantially as described.

5. In a sewing-machine, a needle-bar gate, means to move it laterally, a needle-bar provided With a needle and mounted in said gate, means to move said needle-bar vertically in said gate, a piercer-carrying bar occupying a position parallel to said needle-bar and having its bearings in the head of the sewingmachine, an arm connected to said piercercarrying bar, and provided with a piercer, combined with a stud on one of said bars entering a hole in the other of said bars, said stud being adjustable axially around or with relation to the bar carrying it to permit the adjustment of said bars axially as required, substantially as described.

G. In a sewing-machine, aneedle-bar gate, means to move it laterally, a needle-bar mounted in said gate, and provided with a needle, means to move said needle-bar vertically in said gate, a piercer-carrying bar having attached to its lower end an arm provided with a piercer, bearings for said piercer-carrying bar, said bearings being in the head of the sewing-machine, a stud having at one end an orifice to surround one of said bars, the stud entering a hole in the other of said bars, and a set-screw to fix said stud in adjusted position on one of said bars, both of said bars occupying a position side by side in a plane transverse to the direction of the feed, the loosening of the set-screw holding said stud in position enabling the said piercercarrying bar to be turned axially to place the piercer more or less close to the side of the needle carried by the needle-bar, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

GEORGE I'I. DIMOND. WILBUR F. DIAL.

Witnesses for George H. Dimonda ISAAC HOLDEN, GEo. CoRNwELL. Witnesses for W. F. Dial:

GEo. W. GREGORY, LAURA MANIx.

IOO

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