US593733A

US593733A - Machine

Info

Publication number: US593733A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1897-11-16
Anticipated expiration: 1914-11-16

Description

(No Model.) 4 sheetssheet 1.

G. H. GOLLEY.

I SEWING MACHINE. N0.593,733.. Patented Nov. 16,1897.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

G. H. OOLLEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 593,733. Patented-Nov. 16,1897.

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minimum lllllllllllilllllmli l limllllli I B L WITNESSES I v (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

G.H.GOLL'EY. SEWING MACHINE.

No. 593,733. Patented Nov. 16,1897.

citizen of the United States, residing at J ack- I do hereby declare the following to be a full,

UNITED STATES GEORGE H. COLLEY, OF JACKSON, MICI-IIGAN, ASSIGNOR TO THE WVEEKS- COLLEY MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF SAME PLACE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

. SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 593,733, dated November 16, 1897.

Application filed June 10, 1896. Serial No. 595,021. (No model.)

T0 at whom it may concern.- Be it known that I, GEORGE H. OOLLEY, a

son, in the county of Jackson and State of Michigan, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and

clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enableothers skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to sewing-machines, but more particularly to machines employing rotating loopers and especially designed for fancy stitching or doing that class of embroidery known as fiossing. I do not, however, desire to restrict the invention to such machines as are used for fancy stitching only, inasmuch as it is adapted to other uses, and hence I do not wish to limit its application to any specific class of work.

. The objects of the invention are to provide efficient means for producing various artistic figures or designs in needle-work, for decorating or ornamenting wearing-apparel in imitation of the very expensive method of performing such work byhand, and to overcome the objections incident to the use of machines heretofore employed for this class of work, in the operation of which long stitches or duplicates of the figure or design produced by the needle-thread are formed on the under side of the cloth, which long stitches or copies of the overlying figure or design on the upper side of the cloth are liable to be cut orbroken and thereby permit the needle-work to be easily pulled out or unravellcd so as to destroy the work.

The invention will first be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification, and then pointed out in the claims at the end of the description.

Referring to the drawings, in which the same parts are denoted by similar letters of reference, Figure 1, Sheet 1, represents aside elevation of a sewing-machine embodying my invention, thelnachine proper being detached from the usual cabinet or table and operating devices. Fig. 2, Sheet 2, is a side elevation of the same, looking from the opposite side, part of the nearer side of the overhanging arm being removed and part broken away, so as to show the interior arrangement of the mechanism for vibrating the needle-bar and the clutch device for throwing the same in and out of gear. Fig. 3, Sheet 3, is a bottom plan of the machine shown in, Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 4, Sheet 4,1is a front elevation of the machine. Figs 5. and 6, Sheet 3, are detail sectional views taken through the shuttle-races, showing the shuttle driver in different positions. Fig. 7 is a detail perspective view of the clutch device for throwing the needle-bar-vibrating mechanism in and out of gear. Fig. 8 is a vertical section taken through one of the shuttles. Fig. 9, Sheet 1, is a side elevation of one of the shuttles. Fig. 10, Sheet 4, is a side view of one of the shuttles, showing the position of the parts when the needle has descended and the hook-of the shuttle has just entered the loop of the needle-thread. Fig. 11 represents the parts shown in Fig. 10 in the position in which they appear when the shuttle is casting off the loop. Figs. 10 and 11 are diagrammatic views illustrating different positions of the needle and shuttle thread corresponding with the position of the parts shown in Figs. 10 and 11 in the act of forming a lockstitch. Figs. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 are diagrammatic views further illustrating successive steps in the operation of forming a series of stitches in doing that class or species of embroidery known in the art as flossing,

the shuttle-thread being shown in light and the needle-thread in dark lines, with the spacing of the threads very much exaggerated.

The machine may be constructed with the usual overhanging arm A, mounted on the bed-plate B and supporting the usual needlebar and tension and take-up devices, and may be provided with the usual operating mechanism for imparting motion to the needle and loopers, which are here shown as shuttles. Such parts being old and well known in the art no description thereof herein is deemed necessary further than such as may be required to explain the relation which they sustain to the novel features of construction constituting my invention and their coopera tion therewith.

The needle-bar-actuatin g shaft 0, by which motion is also imparted to the shuttle-driving shaft D, is provided with a crank portion or arm 0, which is journaled in bearings on one end of a pitman c, the opposite end of which is pivoted to an arm at on the rockshaft (1, which has an oppositely-extending arm (1 having aslot-and-pin connection with a crank-arm on the vibrating shuttle-driving shaft D, the latter being journaled in suitable bearings provided therefor underneath the bed-plate A, while the shaft 0 preferably has its bearings located within the hollow overhanging arm A. To adapt the shuttles to be easily removed and replaced, the shuttle-driving shaftD is formed in sections which are connected by a clutch-coupling, consisting of a disk fixed on the main section and an adjoining disk secured by spline-and-g'roove connection on the shuttle-carrier section, the latter disk having teeth or pins which enter apertures in the fixed disk, so as to adapt the two disks when interlocked to lock the sections of the shaft, so that they shall rotate together, the disk on the shuttle-driving section being pressed normally into locking engagement with the opposing disk by a spring and having on its hub or sleeve a milled wheel whereby the loose disk may he slid against the force of the spring, so as to disengage its teeth or pins to permit the shuttledriver section of the shaft to be turned in its bearings into position to permit the shuttles to be removed or inserted by opening or closing the segmental portions of the races. To remove the shuttles, the stop-wheel should first be turned until the dog or lug thereon strikes the sliding stop-bar on one side or the other of the notch in said bar, whereupon the milled wheel on the sliding section of the clutch-coupling is turned to the left or from theoperator until the driver is brought into position to permit the shuttles to be removed. The shaft 0 has mounted loosely thereon a band-wheel E, which in practice is driven continuously by a belt extending, as usual, to some driving-shaft near the machine, one side of this band-wheel being held in frictional contact with a stop-wheel E, which latter is fixed on the shaft 0, the desired tension or friction between the stop and band wheels being maintained by means of locknuts, so as to regulate the amount of pressure or friction between the fast and loose wheels to meet differentrequirements in use, the friction being sufficient always to enable the loose band-wheel by its engagement with the fast stop-wheel to rotate the shaft C; but thesaid shaft 0 may be stopped at any time with the needle and presser-foot lifted, as will be presentlyexplained. Movementis imparted to the needle-bar C from the shaft 0 by the usual connections, and from the latter to the shuttle-driving shaft D through the described rock-shaft and crank-and-pitman connections.

The shuttle race or casing D is preferably constructed substantially as shown and described in my Patent No. 508,600, dated November 14,1893, said casing being formed with interior circumferential grooves or races to guide the rotating hooks or shuttles and provided with hinged segmental portions and means for opening and closing the same to permit the removal and insertion of the shuttles-at will; but any of the ordinary forms of races may be used, and inasmuch as the construction of the race forms no part of my present invention it is not deemed necessary to specifically describe the same herein. I also preferably em ploy rotating hooks or shuttles of the construction shown in the drawings, and more particularly described in an application of even date herewith, but other forms may be employed. These shuttles are given a partial rotation or oscillatory motion by means of the shuttle-drivers D, which receive motion from the shuttle-driving shaft D, two shuttles being used at the same time with only a single needle, which latter descends for the purpose of forming and looking a stitch in cooperation with other parts, first eoacting with one shuttle and then with the other, and so on, being shifted by the needle-bar so as to form successive stitches alternately with two or more shuttles, with the results herein specified. To cause the needle to descend for action with two or more shuttles alternately, I provide mechanism by which the needle-bar will be given a partial rotation or vibratory movement at each revolution of the main or needle-driving shaft just before. the needle-bar reaches the limit of its ascending movement, so as to shift the needle alternately from one position or needle-hole in the throat-plate A to another, as from needle-hole a to hole a, and vice versa, so that it will cooperate to lock the several stitches in the series by operating alternately or successively with two or more shuttles. To this end I place on the needle-bar-actuating shaft C a miter-gear F, which meshes with a larger gear or cam wheel F, the latter having a cam-groove f in its rear face to receive a stud or roller 9, projecting from a lever G, which may be pivotally mounted upon the base or upright portion of the overhanging arm A or other suitable portion of the frame. The lever G is pivoted at its upper end to a longitudinally-reciprocating rod or bar II, which carries a toothed extension or rack II at its forward end, said rack being arranged to engage a mutilated or other suitable gear I, which is fitted upon the needle bar by means of a spline and groove, so as to permit free vertical movement of said needle-bar, while imparting a rotary or'vibratory movement thereto, so that when the bar II is reeiprocated by the action of the cam-wheel and lever operating thereon the needle may be made to descend and pass alternatelythrough the needle-holes a a for the purpose of operating alternately with the two shuttles.

The rack II might be formed integrally with the reciprocating rod or bar II, but it is preferably formed in a separate piece and 5 L said clutch-section f being fitted upon the connected thereto by a coupling h, so as to permit sufficient flexure at this point to prevent the rack from binding and to accommodate the same to the rising and falling movements of therear end of the bar H produced by the swinging or oscillating motion of the lever G. The coupling h consists of a screwthreaded socket 71/, into which is screwed the screw-threaded end of the rack H and which is provided with ears or lugs to receive a setscrew or bolt h by which it is pivoted to the bar H, whereby a pivotal connection is formed between the rack and bar to permit vertical fiexure at this point and thereby prevent the bar or rack from being twisted or the latter from binding in its bearings. The miter-gear F is loose upon the shaft 0, so as to permit the shaft to revolve therein without rotating the same or the larger cam-gear F, and in order that the miter-gears may remain idle or be'caused to rotate at the will of the operator I provide a clutch-section f, having suitable teeth or projections engaging corresponding notches or recesses in the adjacent end of the miter-gear section F in the usual manner,

shaft 0 by means of a spline and groove, so as to permit it to be slid back and forth into and out of engagement with the section F, while continuously revolving with the shaft.

For throwing the needle bar vibrating mechanism in and out of gear I provide a lever K, which may be pivoted at one end within'the overhanging arm A and may have its free end depending through a slot in the under side of said arm to form a handle 70 f or manipulating-the lever. This lever is also provided intermediate its length with a pin which engages a groove in the clutch-coupling section 40 f, so as to positively throw the latter into or out of engagement with the adjoining section F, according to the direction in which the lever is moved.

hen the machine is "moving rapidly, the miter-gears will have acquired a certain velocity and by virtue of their momentum and the slight frictional contact between the part F and the driving-shaft they may not stop the instant the clutch is disengaged, and in order to insure the stoppage thereof at the proper time and to retain the gear F immovably in the position in which it is stopped and prevent any possible rotation thereof by reason of its frictional contact with the shaft on which it is placed I provide a locking device,

consisting of a spring-arm 7c, projecting from the pendent lever K and having a stud or tooth 70 adapted, when the lever is moved to disengage the clutch, to enter one of the grooves or recesses between any two of the teeth of the miter-gear F and hold said gear in a fixed position until released by the reverse movement of thelever in engaging the clutch. By these means the needle-bar-actuating mechanism maybe thrown'out of gear at the will of the operator, so as to adapt the needle to operate with only one of the shuttles in forming a number of stitches at the beginning of the operation or thereafter, and when the clutch is disengaged the needle will continue to operate with whichever shuttle it maybe operating with at the time; but so long as the clutch is engaged the needlebar will be vibrated at each up-and-down movement, so as to cause the needle to descend and form a stitch first with one shuttle and then with the other.

The shuttle which I preferably employ is I shown in vertical section in Fig. 8 and in side view in Fig. 9. Briefly it may be described as follows: It is constructed with a ringshaped main body portion L, having a hook or point- Z and a heel Z to afiord a bearing for the shuttle-driver. and also having a peripheral circumferential rib to guide it in its race, as is usual in rotary hooks of this class. At one side of the circular opening through said ring-shaped body is placed the circular plate or disk L, adapted to fit a circumferential recess in the inner face of the ring-shaped body and to be held in place without other fastening, said plate L being provided with a hollow interiorly screw-threaded spindle or arbor Z on which is journaled a friction-disk M,havin g an exterior]y-screw-threaded sleeve adapted to fit over the arbor and having lock nuts N N screwed thereon, between which lock-nuts and disk is placed a frictionring 0, which may be made to contact with said disk with sufficientpressure to cause the two to rotate together, while permitting independent rotary movement of the friction-ring when the frictional resistance is overcome. The lock-nuts N N afford a. bearing for the bobbin P, which is detachably fitted or incased within the opening in the ring-shaped body, and by 'means of a lug on the hub of the bobbin engaging a recess in said frictionring, or vice versa, the two are adapted to rotate together. The hub of the friction-disk M bears against a shoulder or collar on the arbor Z or centrally of the stationary disk L, so as to provide sufficient space between said parts to receive and permit the proper action of a coiled or other suitable spring Q, one end of which is fixed to the stationary disk, while the other end thereof is fixed to or engages with a stud or projection on the outer side of the friction-plate M, whereby the bobbin and friction disk and ring are adapted to rotate together so long as the friction between said disk and ring is sufficient, or until the rotating disk reaches the limit of its movement, a stop being provided, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 9, to limit it to practically a single rotation, whereupon any further movement of the bobbin will be independent of the friction-disk and against thefrictional 'resistance,'the disk remaining stationary,

bor by means of an eXteriorly-serew-threaded plug R, having a flanged head, between which and the shoulder or collar on the stationary disk L the hub of the rotating-disk is confined.

To adapt the machine to make a single stitch and stop to permit the material to be moved for the next stitch, I provide a treadle on or near the fioor which is connected to a rocking lever S, which may be pivoted at its angle to a pendent arm T, and has a slot-and-pin connection at s with a sliding bar U, which is fitted to slide back and forth in suitable bearings in the bracket T, and is provided with a notch u, which when arranged in the plane of rotation of a lug e on the stop-wheel IE will permit the latter to rotate continuously, but when moved either to the right or left of such position the lug e on the stopwheel IE will, by coming in contact with the sliding bar U, prevent further rotation of the driving-shaft until released by the movement of the treadle, so as to bring the notch in the sliding bar into the path of movement of said lug and thus permit the stop-wheel to make another revolution, the needle action being thus under the complete control of the operator by means of the heel-and-toe pressure on the treadle.

In suitable bearings supported upon the forward portion of the overhanging arm is journaled a rock-shaft 1, which is provided at its front end with a forked arm 2, which engages a stud upon the presser-foot bar 3 for the purpose of raising said bar to permit the material when a stitch has been formed and the cloth is free to be moved by the operator for the distance it is desired to lay the silk or other thread upon the cloth in forming the desired figure or design. A coiled or other spring 4 011 the rock-shaft 1 tends normally to maintain the shaft in such position as to hold the presser-foot down upon the throat-plate; but by means of an arm 5 projecting from the rock-shaft 1 and a cam or toothed disk on the main driving-shaft O engaging the arm 5 the presser-foot will be lifted while the needle is raised or ascending, and as the shaft continues to rotate said arm 5 will escape from the tooth on the disk and permit the presser-foot to drop down under the action of the spring a.

The operation of my invention will be readily understood from the foregoing description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings.

The machine is not provided with the usual feed, but the fabric is moved by the operator in whatever direction he may desire and to any distance required for the formation of a stitch of any desired length, the needle descending at the will of the operator when the fabric is adjusted by hand to receive the needle action at the proper point. If it is desired' to take several stitches at any given point upon the fabric in hand for the purpose of firmly tying the thread or fastening it so it will not unravel, the clutch-operating lever K is thrown forward, so as to cause the needle to operate with one shuttle alone for forming any desired number of stitches. The desired tie having been made at the point Where the work begins the lever is shifted so as to engage the clutch-section f, thereby causing the needle to operate first with one shuttle and then the other, thus enabling the operator to shift the fabric between each stitch taken, thereby laying the silk from the needle down upon the goods. The needle descends and passes through the presser-foot, which automatically rises and falls with the needle, holding the fabric to the bed-plate just long enough for the stitch to be formed and rising to allow free movement of the fabric to the point at which it is desired to make the next stitch.

\Vhen the machine is being used to make but one stitch at a time, the lug on the stopwheel by coming in contact with the sliding stop-bar will prevent further rotation of the driving-shaft unless the stop-bar is moved so as to permit the dog or tooth on said stopwheel to escape by bringing the notch in the bar into the path of motion of said lug, whereupon the stop-wheel will be released and it will make one revolution, but at the completion of its revolution the dog or tooth on the stop-wheel will again strike the stop-bar and the dog may be again allowed to escape, and so on for every stitch, it being necessary for the operator to press the heel or toe on the treadle, either of which motions will bring the notch on the locking-bar in position to permit the dog 011 the stop vheel to escape for another stitch and stop.

Ordinarily the machine stops at the completion of each stitch, the pressure on the treadle for starting the machine being made alternately by the heel and toe pressing upon the treadle, but if the treadle is held by the feet in proper position (usually horizontally) the machine will not stop, but will continue to form stitches, the needle action being performed alternately with first one shuttle and then the other. The action of the needle will be more clearly understood by reference to Figs. 10 to 18 of the drawings, in which the successive steps are shown diagrammatically on an enlarged scale, the needle-thread being shown in dark and the shuttle-thread in light lines, it being understood of course that the spacing between the threads is exaggerated and thatin actual practice these threads are placed in such close proximity that they form a solid body or network of silk. In Figs. 10 and 1O the needle, which maybe supposed to be supplied with fioss silk, has descended through the material so as to form a loop to be entered by one of the rotating hooks, the said needle and hook at each complete rotation of the needle-bar making a stitch. Figs. 11 and 11 illustrate the descent of the needle and the partial rotation of the shuttle to a point at which the loop is about to be cast off. Fig. 12 illustrates two initial locked stitches formed at the beginning of the work. Fig. 13 illustrates the position of the parts when the first lock-stitches have been formed and the fabric moved to a position for forming the next stitch, the needle having been shifted by the needle-bar-vibrating mechanism so as to perform its usual function in conjunction with the other shuttle and, as will be seen, the shuttle-thread of the adjoining or inactive shuttle being left free to be automatically taken up by the recoil of the spring acting upon the bobbin of the inactive shuttle when the stitch has been formed by the cooperation of the active shuttle and needle and the material moved to bring the inactive shuttle again into action, as indicated in Fig. 14. Figs. 15, 16, 17, and 18 represent additional successive steps in the formation of a figure or design, producing a fan-shaped ornamental design in fiossing.

Usually after making the first tie it is only necessary to make a single stitch at each revolution of the needle-driving shaft, operating alternately with first one shuttle and then the other; but of course by shifting the clutchoperating lever two or more stitches may be formed with either shuttle and needle without moving the cloth or fabric,so as to draw out the shuttle-thread and form a long stitch on the under side. When the material is moved, the clutch should be engaged, so as to permit the thread paid out by the shuttle which has formed the previous stitch to be taken up after the next stitch is made by the other shuttle. figure or design the clutch-operating lever may be shifted, so as to disengage the clutch,

and thereupon a number of stitches may be made with whichever shuttle the needle may be operating with at the time, so as to tie or tack the goods on the finishing strokes. Thus by causing a single needle to operate alternately with two or more shuttles the underlying thread, which is drawn out by the operator in moving the goods the desired distance to form a stitch of any desired length, is automatically taken up by the inactive shuttle, which again becomes the active one in forming the next stitch, so that no long stitches or copy of the design which is being worked are formed on the under side of the cloth, whereby greater security and permanency is given to the work, a saving of thread is .effected, and the cost of production of the decorative or ornamental effect is reduced.

The process of unwinding the thread from the bobbin against the spring-pressure is performed, of course, by the act of the operator in shifting the goods from one point to another by hand, thus enabling the operator to lay out any design or sketch which may suit his fancy or seem to be proper for the work in hand, and after the second stitch istaken each movement of the garment underneath the presser-foot permits one bobbin-spring by its recoil to wind up the thread while the thread upon the other bobbin is unwound.

Upon the completion of the desired While the machine is especially designed for flossing, it is also adapted to be used for various other purposes, and may be profitably applied to the manufacture of draperies, curtains, tapestries, piano-covers, handkerchiefs, infants clothing, suspenders, tablecovers, mats, corsets, 850., being adapted to be used in the manufacture of corsets to stay or tack the ends of stays, and at the same time leave long stitches of silk or other thread on the surface for a beautifying effect, the design to be determined by the operator. Among other advantages the avoidance of the formation of long stitches on the under side of the cloth permits the use of silk for the needle and of ordinary thread for the shuttles but it will be understood, of course, that silk or other thread may be used with the shuttles when desired, and that by properly shifting the clutch mechanism so as to operate with one needle and shuttle only in flossing the figure or design may be formed, if desired, upon both sides of the cloth, as with the ordinary flossing-machine.

Handsome needle-work neatly and artistically accomplished in appropriate designs and colors is a'desirable form of ornamentation of textile fabrics, and such designs may be easily and efiectively produced by this machine.

Various modifications may be made in the construction and arrangement of parts hereinbefore described without departing from the spirit of my invention, and hence I do not desire to limit my invention to the exact construction and arrangement of parts described and shown. It is obvious that a different stop-motion might be substituted for the one shown and described and that other means may be employed for imparting a partial rotat-ion or vibratory movement to the needlebar. Other means for driving the needle and shuttles may also be employed, any ordinary driving mechanism being adapted to be used for this purpose.

The novelty and utility of my present invention reside, mainly, in the combination, with a single needle and mechanism for imparting the desired motion thereto, .of a plurality of shuttles, preferably of the hook or rotating-shuttle type, together with means for adapting the needle to operate with either shuttle at the will of the operator, according to the necessities of the work in hand, the operating mechanism being under the control of the operator, so that the needle may operate alternately with the two shuttles or with either shuttle alone without affecting or being affected by the shuttle with which it may not be operating at the time, each of the shuttles in the combination being provided with means whereby the thread paid out by the bobbin when the operator moves the cloth or fabric to form a succeeding stitch may be taken up automatically by the bobbin from which it is unwound without being locked on the under side, the succeeding stitch being formed and locked by the action of the needle with the shuttle which was inactive in forming the last stitch, so that the thread paid out by the bobbin of the shuttle which is not cooperating with the needle at the time may be automatically taken up when the cloth is moved to permit such action after the stitch is formed.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is

1. A sewing-machine having two shuttles and mechanism for driving the same, in combination with a single needle arranged for conjoint action with said shuttles, means for causing the needle to operate with either shuttle independently of the other or with both in alternation in forming successive stitches, and mechanism for actuating the needle, substantially as described.

2. A sewing-111achine havinga single needle and two shuttles arranged for conjoint action, means for actuating the needle and simultaneously driving both shuttles, means for antomatically shifting the needle so that it shall operate first with one shuttle and then with the other in forming successive stitches, and means for automatically rewinding the shuttle-threads so as to adapt the shuttles to take up the under thread, substantially as described.

3. A sewing-machine havinga single needle and a plurality of shuttles, a main drivingshaft adapted to impart a reciprocating movement to the needle-bar, a shuttle-drivin g shaft for simultaneously driving the two shuttles, mechanism actuated by said main shaft for imparting a partial rotation to the needle-bar when the needle is lifted, so as to adapt the needle to descend for operation first with one shuttle and then with the other, and means for causing the needle to operate at will with one shuttle only, substantially as described.

4. In asewing-machine for flossing the combination with a single needle and means for imparting a reciprocating movement thereto, of means for moving the needle laterally each time it is lifted, a shuttle-driving shaft, a plurality of shuttles arranged to be driven by said shaft, and means for rewinding the bobbin-threads, substantially as described, whereby a single needle is adapted to operate alternately with a plurality of shuttles and the unused thread paid out by the bobbins is automatically rewound.

5. In combination with the vertically-reciprocatin g needle-bar and two shuttles arranged for conjoint action, and means for operating the same, means for vibrating or giving a partial rotation to said needle-bar when lifted so as to adapt the needle to operate alternately with two shuttles, comprisinga cam arranged to rotate independently of but geared to the driving-shaft, an oscillating lever arranged to be actuated by said cam, a reciprocating pitman pivotally connected to said oscillating lever and carrying a rack at its free end, and a pinion or gear-wheel secured on said needle-bar in engagement with said rack-bar; said pinion being arranged to permit longitudinal movement of the needle-bar while imparting a rotatory or vibratory movement thereto and a clutch device for disengaging the needle-bar-vibrating mechanism so as to adapt the needle to operate with one shuttle only, substantially as described.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a reciprocating needle-bar and means for imparting motion thereto, a movable presser-foot, a shuttle-race carrying two rotating shuttles, means for imparting motion to said shuttles, means for lifting the presserfoot when the needle is raised, and mechanism for imparting a vibratory movement to the needle-bar, so as to adapt the needle to operate alternately with the two shuttles, and a clutch device for disengaging the needlebar-vibrating mechanism so as to adapt the needle to operate with one shuttle only, at the will of the operator, substantially as described.

7. In a rotating-shuttle sewing-machine, the combination with two rotating shuttles and a driving-shaft therefor, a vertically-reciprocating needle-bar, a main driving-shaft for actuating said needle-bar and connections between said main shaft and the sh uttle-driving shaft for imparting motion from the former to the latter, and mechanism for giving a partial rotation to the needle-bar each time the needle is lifted, together with a presserfoot bar and means for raising the presserfeet when the needle ascends, whereby a single needle is adapted to operate alternately with two shuttles so as to form successive stitches first with one shuttle and then with the other, and the material intermittingly released when the needle and presser-foot are lifted to permit it to be moved to form a stitch of any desired length, substantially as described.

S. In combination with two rotatory shuttles, each having a spring-actuated bobbin adapted to automatically rewind the unused bobbin-thread paid out in forming a stitch, a single needle, and mechanism for reciprocating said needle and shifting its position laterally at each reciprocation, to adapt it to operate alternately with the two shuttles, means for stopping the motions of the needle and shuttles once during each complete revolution of the main driving-shaft, and means for liftin g and holding the presser-foot in a raised po-' sition when the needle is lifted and stopped, substantially as described.

9. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a single needle, of two rotating shuttles each having a spring-actuated bobbin adapted to rewind the bobbin-thread which is not utilized in forming a stitch, means for imparting an oscillatory motion to the shuttles and for reciprocating the needle-bar, mechanism for vibrating the needle-bar so as to shift its position after each action, and mechanism dle is lifted, together with a stop device adapted to arrest the action of the needle at each complete revolution of the driving-shaft comprising a Wheel fast on the main driving-shaft provided with a peripheral lug, a continuously-driven wheel loose on said shaft but in frictional engagement with said fast wheel, a sliding bar provided with a notch or recess adapted to be thrown across the path of movement of said lug to permit the uninterrupted passage of the lug for continuous motion and means for shifting said sliding bar so as to cause the same to engage said lug and stop the main driving-shaft at each complete revolution with the needle and presser-foot lifted, substantially as described.

11. In combination with the needle, and two shuttles adapted to operate alternately therewith, and mechanism for imparting motion to said needle and shuttles, the stop mechanism comprising a disk or wheel fast on the driving-shaft and having a peripheral pin or lug, a band-wheel loose on said shaft in frictional contact with said disk and adapted to be continuously driven by suitable power,

a stop-bar placed across the path of movement of said pin or lug and having a notch or recess therein to permit the passage of the lug when said recess is arranged in the path of thelug, and a rocking lever pivotally con= nectedto said stop-bar, and means for rocking said lever so as to shift the position of the stop-bar to permit the lug on the stopwheel to escape or pass, substantially as de- 1 scribed.

12. In combination with the main drivingthereby, for imparting motion to the needle and shuttles, respectively, two shuttles and a single needle arranged to operate with either shuttle, mechanism for giving a partial rotation to the needle-bar at each rotation of said main shaft, and a clutch device for throwing said mechanism into and'out of gear to adapt the needle to be reciprocated for action with only one shuttle, or alternately with both, at the will of the operator, substantially as described.

13. In a sewing-machine,the combination with the main driving-shaft and mechanism for imparting a reciprocating and vibratory motion to the needle-bar, of the shuttle-driving shaft and shuttles driven from said main shaft, and a clutch device for throwing said needle-vibrating mechanism into and out of gear, comprising a clutch-section loose on the main drivingshaft having a gear-wheel in mesh with a gear-wheel for imparting movement to the needle-bar-vibratin g mechanism, a clutchsleeve slidingly arranged on said main shaft so as to be driven thereby while permitting free movement thereof longitudinally of the shaft, and a leverfor shifting said sleeve to adapt it to engage or disengage the loose clutch-section, substantially as described.

14. In combination with the main drivingshaft and mechanism actuated from said main shaft for imparting a reciprocating and vibratory motion to the needle-bar, a clutch device for throwing said main shaft into and out of gear with said needle-bar-vibrating mechanism, comprising a clutch-section loose on the main drivingshaft having a gear- I wheel in mesh with a gear-Wheel for imparting movement to the needle-bar-vib'rating mechanism,a clutch-sleeve slidingly arranged on said main shaft so as to be driven thereby while permitting free movement thereof longitudinally of the shaft, a lever for shifting said sleeve to adapt it to engage or disengage the loose clutch-section, and a spring-arm carried by said lever having a stud adapted to engage the toothed section of the clutch device so as to hold the latter immovable in the position in which it is shifted when the clutch is disengaged, substantially as described.

15. In combination with the vertically-reciprocating needle-bar, the driving-shaft therefor, the presser-foot bar, and means for lifting the presser-foot once during each complete revolution of said shaft, mechanism for stopping the motion of the needle when the presser-foot is lifted, comprising a stop-wheel frictionally geared to a continuously-driven wheel on the main driving-shaft and havingv a lug adapted to engage a-stop-bar arranged across the path of motion of the lug, together with said stop-bar having a notch or recess therein, and means for shifting the same so as to throw said notch across the path of motion of the lug and release the stop-wheel; whereby the latter may be caused to revolve continuously or stopped at each rotation of the driving-shaft, substantially as described.

16. In combination with a single needle adapted to operate alternately with two loopers, and means for actuating the same, two continuously-rotating loopers, and mechanism for operating said loopers, each looper being provided with a rotary bobbin, and means for automatically rewinding the bobbin-thread so as to adapt the loopers to take up the under thread, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

' GEORGE H. OOLLEY.

Witnesses:

O. 0. Aims, H. E. WATKINS.