US552976A - Tailor s drafting-plate - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

J. R. STOREY.

TAILOR'S DRAWING PLATE. No. 552,976. Patented Jan. 14, 1896.

www@ e W @ifo /f a Unirnn STAT-'ns PATENT innend JAMES R. STOREY, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI.

TAILORS oRAFTiNG-PLATE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 552,976, dated January 14, 1896.

Application filed April 8, 1895. Serial No.5ei4,848. (No model.)

To atl whom, t may concern:

Be it known that I, Janus R. Sronnr, a citizen of the United States, .residing` at St. Louis, State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Tailors Drafting Plates or Systems, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part hereof.

My invention has relation to tailors drafting plates or systems; and it consists in the novel arrangement and combination of parts more fully set forth in the specification and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings, Figure l is a plan View of one side of the plate, and Fig. 2 is a plan View of the opposite side of the same plate.

The object of my invention is to construct a drafting-plate by which a perfect symmetry and maximum amount of beauty can be given to the Various curves forming the outlines of the different portions of a drafting-sheet; to reduce to a minimum the amount of time consumed in applying the plate to the sheet or surface on which the drafting is being executed, and to present further and other advantages to be hereinafter more specifically 'referred to.

The plate is constructed of any suitable material, such as pasteboard, papier-mache, aluminum, and the like.

The plate has a central longitudinal opening A cut therefrom, the said opening being bounded on one side by a straight edge B, the continuation of which takes the form of the shoulder-curve O. The opposite side of the opening A is bounded by a uniform curved edge D, this latter compounding with a reverse curve E whose terminal connects with the end of the shoulder-curve by a straight edge 100. The end of the straight edge B connects with the opposite end of the uniform curve D by a straight edge 101.

In drafting, the shoulder-curve is obtained by applying the point Z of the plate at the neck-point of the draft and following the shoulder-curve O of the plate to the top of the arm-curve of the drafting. This will give the most graceful outline of a shoulder-curve on the drafting-sheet.

Beginning at a convenient point along the edge B and ending at the point Where said edge meets with the straight edge 101, are disposed a series of division marks-for example, from 18 to i5 inclusive-these being the waist iigures for the back draft. For example, if the person measures twenty-two inches around the Waist, the point lV is placed on the drafting at a point where the waist-line and center of back meet, and the edge B of the plate is followed up along the waist-line of the drafting until the figure 22 is reached, when it is marked off on said waist-line.

The plate is bounded on one of its longitudinal sides by a straight edge 103 properly spaced, said edge forming one side of a square of which the edge 10i is the other and shorter side. The edge 10i is also properly spaced off. Adjacent to end of the straight edge B and forming one end of the opposite longitudinal end of the plate is the arm-curve G, haring a point of beginning at G and ending approximately at G2, the continuation of said curve forming the concave edge 105, which leads to and merges with the hip-curve H at the opposite end of the plate contiguous to t-he edge 10i. The hipcurve of a drafting, it will be understood, is the curve which runs from the waist-line downward. The arm-curve is the curve of the arm beginning at the shoulder and terminating at the bust-line. The armcurve G of the plate continues to join the neck curve L, the part of said curve, however, between the points Gr and L never being used to define the neck-curve on the drafting, since that part corresponds to that portion of the entire neck measure which comes between the shoulder and the middle of the back of the neck.

In drafting, the ci1eckeui-ye proper is a curve extending from the neck-point to the front center line of the garment. Of course, the entire neck-curve would describe three hundred and sixty degrees, of which number that portion indicated between the points G and L is the portion between the center of the back of the neck and the edge of the shouldercurve. As this portion is not used in determining the neck-curve proper, the latter for convenience therefore has its point of beginning on the plate at Gr' and conforming in a large measure to the armcurve of said plate.

IOO

f the hip-curve has points 7o Z 'm 'n o @,ltc., for

On the reverse side of the plate and opposite the hip-curve is the side-,form curve M that is, it represents the curve on the drafting-sheet which runs from a suitable point of the arm-curve to a point on the waist-line removed some distance from the center of the back of the garment. On the reverse side, too, of the plate and opposite the arm-curve is the dart-curve N, these being or representing the curves of the various darts interposed between the bust-line and the Waist-line and designed particularly for ladies drafting. Although the arm-curve and dart-curve correspond in position on the plate, only a portion ofthe arm-curve isused for delineating f dartcurves, whereas for arm-curves the major portion of the curve is used.

The arm-curve in addition to the inch di' visions and subdivisions thereof has arbitrary points d b c d, the., 'marked thereon, and

the cutter to enable him to fix a point of bcginnin'g for any curve to be traced on the drafting-sheet. The side-form curve has similar arbitrary points 1 2 3 4, dsc., and the dart-curve has l0 11 12, the., all intended for and subservingthe same purpose. The plate, too, has other and further subdivisions wherever the same may be found useful or desirable.

In the present plate I have shown the straight edge B and its continuation G adjacent to the curved longitudinal edge of the plate andthe curve D and its reverse curve E adjacent to the straight edge 103 of the plate. This arrangement can, however, be reversed, but it would impair the handiness of the plate, necessitating, after a square had been marked off on the drafting-sheet by means of the edges 103 and 104e, the turning of the plate in order to delineate the shoulder-curve, a curve which is of prime importance and is one of the first to be marked off. In fact the arrangement and character of the curves here assembled results in the loss of a minimum amount of time in applying the plate to the outlining of the necessary curves on the drafting-sheet and at the same time results in the production of a set of curves which give a maximum amount of grace to a pattern as Well as to the garment cut in accordance therewith.

edge and a curved continuation thereof boundingone side of they opening, an. edge of uniform curvature opposite the straight edge, a reverse continuation thereof opposite the curved continuation of the straight edge bounding thek opposite side of the opening, and suitable straight edges at either end of the opening, substantially as set forth.

2. A drafting plate comprising a suitable f plate yhaving a properly divisioned square i bounding two of its sides, said square having a long and a short arm, a concave edge oppo site the longarm, an arm rcurve and a hip curve at the respective opposite ends of the concave edge, a continuation of the arm curve indicating that portion of the neck curve between the middle` of back of neck and the shoulder curve, a central opening in said plate bounded on. one side by astraight edge and a curved continuation thereof representing the shoulder curve, and on the other side by a suitable reverse curve having a portion of uniform curvature opposite andconvex to the straight edge, a side form curve and dart curve on the opposite side of the plate corresponding respectively with thehip curve and the arm curve, and suitable division marks on the `various curves to indicate arbitrary points of beginning for the same, substantially' as set forth.

3. In a drafting plate, a suitable concave edge, a convex curve at either end representing respectively the arm curve and hip curve. and a central longitudinal opening in said plate having a straight edge and a curved continuation thereof representing the shoulder curve adjacent to the first mentioned curves, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two Witnesses.

JAMES R. STOREYA Vitnesses ALFRED A. MATHEY, EMIL STAREK.

Images